I actually add a drop or two of super glur into the end cap and then crimp it on. Its nice because its cleaner that straight up super glue which I find still leaves rough and sharp edges. And when you remove the end cap for servicing etc the cable stays unfrayed.
Thanks! Always expect solid advice from Park - I have been using spoke nipples since BMX as a teen, nice to see it mentioned. Nice to see you have a specific tool.
I want to shout out Cable Cherries from Forager Cycles here - they're a reusable cable end that you secure with a small grub screw. They work great and they look really nice; the main downside is that they're expensive (although some of that is offset by them being reusable)
I've been building bikes for over 30 years, have never needed a special crimper for the cable end. I usually use light pressure with cutters, and have used solder a few times. I'm sort of proud of the last tool I used, a $900 DMC Mil-spec pin crimping tool.
It might be a bit overkill, but I honestly think the best way to crimp these on is using a deutsch terminal crimper. It makes 4 evenly spaced crimps around the cable end piece. I also think it looks better.
Yes deutsch crimper would work. But most people don't have a pair lol. As a mechanic I have a pair in my toolbox but that doesn't do me any good since my box is at the shop. So for home I just use my park cable cutters and if needed at the moment a pair of vise script pliers.
You beautiful internet genius!.😂 I have a Deutsch tool set and some extra female pins laying around. It worked like a champ. Thank you. FYI closed barrel size 16
Another good tip when dealing with a frayed end is that after you cut the badly frayed section off, you can usually twist the smaller cables back into alignment by hand before your preferred method of capping. The worse the fray, the less this method works (hence cutting off end section), but it works fairly well for mildly frayed ends.
Relatedly, when you're trying to trim as little as possible, run some tape around the circumference to hold the strands together temporarily and cut across the tape, then add the crimp.The tape won't last, but it will reduce further fraying while you're getting the crimp on.
If you can't cut a frayed tail to get a clean end to cap (not enough left), you can use a pliers to wind even a badly-unwound end back together - start at the cable-clamp end and wind it in the correct direction while drawing the pliers towards the end. Use a finger & thumb to hold the strands while you reposition the pliers for the next turn. Before you know it, it's all wound together again, and ready for the cap.
I've used spoke nipples and crimp ends. Solder sounds like something I'd try. Crescent cutter tools have the added benefit of blue handles. More than a coincidence.
The cutters must be of a special type, and sharp. Cutters that flatten the cable will fray it. You would need those which jaws "surround" the strands when cutting them.
@@gg.youlubeatube6249 They specifically showed doing it with needle nose pliers in this very video! But yes, anything that can give sufficient leverage to smash the crimp onto the cable will do the job. Some tools make a more elegant mark than others.
If it fray all the way back to the pinch bolt the fraying will stop and you will have a very ugly sharp group of wires. Because the cable is pinched at that point the fray will not continue.
I'm done with those crimpers. I just dip The cleanly cut cable end into JB weld. Just a little dab the size of a BB works wonders and will not come off.
You missed the second problem with frayed cables, there's the chance of injuring yourself but also the inability to thread the cable back into the housing if you want to temporarily remove an otherwise good cable.
The Park cutter and crimp tool is really worth it.
I actually add a drop or two of super glur into the end cap and then crimp it on.
Its nice because its cleaner that straight up super glue which I find still leaves rough and sharp edges.
And when you remove the end cap for servicing etc the cable stays unfrayed.
Thanks! Always expect solid advice from Park - I have been using spoke nipples since BMX as a teen, nice to see it mentioned. Nice to see you have a specific tool.
I want to shout out Cable Cherries from Forager Cycles here - they're a reusable cable end that you secure with a small grub screw. They work great and they look really nice; the main downside is that they're expensive (although some of that is offset by them being reusable)
EP-1 is my new favorite tool!
I've been building bikes for over 30 years, have never needed a special crimper for the cable end. I usually use light pressure with cutters, and have used solder a few times. I'm sort of proud of the last tool I used, a $900 DMC Mil-spec pin crimping tool.
Exactly! A special crimper is not needed but using one may make you that much more proud of your work when you are putting on the finishing touches.
Genius. Solder and dual wall heat shrink w/it's internal glue are great ideas in a pinch!
Before I knew much about bikes, I used automotive crimp connectors. One connector cut in half does two cables. The proper crimps are cheaper, though.
1:46 I use a half inch length from a ballpoint pen refill & glue it on.
I needed this so when I get my pedals replaced I can tell. Them to add a end cap to the brake lines thanks
It might be a bit overkill, but I honestly think the best way to crimp these on is using a deutsch terminal crimper. It makes 4 evenly spaced crimps around the cable end piece. I also think it looks better.
every electronics specialist will think of this option first :)
Yes deutsch crimper would work. But most people don't have a pair lol. As a mechanic I have a pair in my toolbox but that doesn't do me any good since my box is at the shop. So for home I just use my park cable cutters and if needed at the moment a pair of vise script pliers.
You beautiful internet genius!.😂 I have a Deutsch tool set and some extra female pins laying around. It worked like a champ. Thank you. FYI closed barrel size 16
Another good tip when dealing with a frayed end is that after you cut the badly frayed section off, you can usually twist the smaller cables back into alignment by hand before your preferred method of capping. The worse the fray, the less this method works (hence cutting off end section), but it works fairly well for mildly frayed ends.
Relatedly, when you're trying to trim as little as possible, run some tape around the circumference to hold the strands together temporarily and cut across the tape, then add the crimp.The tape won't last, but it will reduce further fraying while you're getting the crimp on.
@@johnhawkinson mmm, i like that one, definitely gonna use it on the next rats next i come across.
I like to use solder; this way when servicing you do not have to cut, then re-crimp another cable end, making the cable shorter each time.
All crimps I did are reversible, so the cable length never changes.
If you can't cut a frayed tail to get a clean end to cap (not enough left), you can use a pliers to wind even a badly-unwound end back together - start at the cable-clamp end and wind it in the correct direction while drawing the pliers towards the end. Use a finger & thumb to hold the strands while you reposition the pliers for the next turn. Before you know it, it's all wound together again, and ready for the cap.
What's that thing on the left side of the rear axle?
Looks like a trailer hitch.
I've used spoke nipples and crimp ends. Solder sounds like something I'd try. Crescent cutter tools have the added benefit of blue handles. More than a coincidence.
I've tried it once or twice, it is indeed neat.
Can one crimp the brake cable lever side a the handle bars? They have different chapes, or do you have to buy a cable with them?
Я использую термоусадочную трубку или наконечник от строительных заклёпок. Интересный вариант с пайкой.
Sometimes when I cut my shifter cables they fray upon cutting. Is this because of the quality of the cable or my cutters? (Park Tool by the way).
The cutters must be of a special type, and sharp. Cutters that flatten the cable will fray it. You would need those which jaws "surround" the strands when cutting them.
"The Mac Daddy of them all...." Your 1990's is showing 🤣
is there a reason why needle nose pliers are not a good idea?
Becouse in this case Park took cant chargee you premium price.
@@gg.youlubeatube6249 They specifically showed doing it with needle nose pliers in this very video! But yes, anything that can give sufficient leverage to smash the crimp onto the cable will do the job. Some tools make a more elegant mark than others.
Perfect ! ❤
Yeah, Tech Tuesday! 🙂
What could happen if the cable frays all the way back to the cable pinch bolt?
If it fray all the way back to the pinch bolt the fraying will stop and you will have a very ugly sharp group of wires. Because the cable is pinched at that point the fray will not continue.
I'm done with those crimpers. I just dip The cleanly cut cable end into JB weld. Just a little dab the size of a BB works wonders and will not come off.
I find the smaller shift crimp ferrules always manage to pop off, so i just use thr brake ones 😅
I'm making custom crimp cable ends
Why do you have commissioned sales from Walmart on your official UA-cam channel?
the new cable has the welded cable end, if your bike is big enough, you don't need to cut the cable.
I just cut my cables and put super glue on the ends. No fraying and it allows me to remove the cables and lube inside the housing and reinstall.
I use JB weld epoxy
Forager Cycles Cable Cherries. You're welcome.
20$ per pair? seems a bit much but it looks good at least
@danielgwerder2409 pricey, but worth it. Quality is amazing and they're a nice touch. Infinitely reusable too.
I absolutely hate when a cable frays and these little wires stab me into my finger like 3mm deep. 😢
Even a pair of pliers can work in a pinch.
Use Super glue
All obvious stuff but I guess some will find it useful.
There is another, dangerous, way: using a torch to heat up and melt the wires in the cable together at the end 🔥
*crimping aint easy, lol*
This video seems unnecessary, but the title is very necessary
You missed the second problem with frayed cables, there's the chance of injuring yourself but also the inability to thread the cable back into the housing if you want to temporarily remove an otherwise good cable.
Did you just rip off Seth's sign-off?
Haha, you know I think we subconsciously did! We are big fans!