Broken Power Door Locks and Door Pocket Repair - Air Cooled PORSCHE 911 Carrera

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  • Опубліковано 14 гру 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 14

  • @kevinthomas8768
    @kevinthomas8768 23 години тому +2

    Great video, very helpful to see how these cars come apart.i have to fix my felt because my window rattles too. Thanks again for taking the time to make the videos. I like that you don’t jump over steps and we get to see the whole process.

  • @pyrogenusa
    @pyrogenusa День тому +2

    I like these G Model repairs, I know 356 & long hoods, but this is very informing on the newer cars. I have a similar 84 CAB, that will need this someday.

    • @GarageTimeAutoResto
      @GarageTimeAutoResto  23 години тому

      It's crazy the amount of stuff that they added to these cars. I love comparing the 60's, 70's and 80's

  • @johngarrott5933
    @johngarrott5933 13 годин тому +1

    Cool music!

  • @gearhead9828
    @gearhead9828 День тому +4

    Yes, that's for the alarm and it is a separate key. My mechanic recommended not to activate the alarm as it is not very reliable. 87 Coupe btw.

    • @robbrooks4964
      @robbrooks4964 23 години тому +3

      Yep for the alarm. I never use it. Same for me. 87 coupe.

    • @GarageTimeAutoResto
      @GarageTimeAutoResto  23 години тому +1

      Thx guys, I don't have this key then.

  • @literatesavant
    @literatesavant 11 годин тому +1

    I broke my driver's door actuator arm by clicking the central lock button while the door was open. The "don't lock your keys in the car" physical lockout doesn't override the central locking. I did this while I was mucking around in the door trying to fix the stuck power window. So, I got the power window unstuck and working smoothly. I got a new actuator arm from Porsche and installed it. Put the door all back together, everything worked well. A few weeks later: power window stuck again, power door lock broken again. So somehow the new arm has come off already. I haven't opened it up again, but I have a hunch that the top trim piece for the door, the part that the lock button which moves up and down goes through, is binding on that button. It may have been creating just enough drag to pop the arm off when the lock solenoid moved. It's definitely too stiff when operating the lock manually now, and it seems like that is the reason. Something to keep in mind.
    Also, instead of hooking up the window switches just to lower the window one time, you can push a hex key into the window motor and wind it manually. This is in the owner's manual for "stuck window" emergencies, and the factory tool kit came with a hex socket and handle for this. That's how I unstuck my window the first time.

    • @GarageTimeAutoResto
      @GarageTimeAutoResto  17 хвилин тому

      Oh wow, bummer to hear that the problem came back. Also weird that the central lock button broke the door. I won't try that!
      Good tip on the manual winder tool.
      Best of luck finding the problem. I'm guessing the latch mechanism is to blame?

  • @superbear617
    @superbear617 День тому +1

    Was the lever you used to pry out the exterior trim piece a bicycle tire removal tool???

    • @GarageTimeAutoResto
      @GarageTimeAutoResto  23 години тому

      It's thinner than a bicycle tool, but it's a nylon pry tool from snap on. It has a little fork on the end too.

  • @prestocoop
    @prestocoop 20 годин тому +1

    Mr. Everything Correct...? You're not going to make a vapor barrier? Take you ten minuted.