I quite like these oil filed space heaters, even though they are all defective by design. They are really 600 watt heaters pretending to be 1500 watt heaters.
*Install was easy **fireplace.homes** good although I personally had some difficulty with the thermostat I had. Issue was mine though, not realizing that electric heaters couldn't use oil thermostats. Tip: If you are using an external thermostat, run the power to the thermostat, not the unit. Once that was squared away it worked great.*
Doubt you'll read this, but this helped immensely. I had been using the 900 watt setting on my space heater and it seemed like my room was constantly cold. When you posted this video, and showed the thermal cutoff being on the high side, I started using the 600 watt setting. Now my room is MUCH more comfortable. Thank you!
Mine was getting power but not heating. Older than the model you have. I took it apart and checked for damaged connections. Found nothing but it was a little dirty. I cleaned out the debris off connections and wiped it out with a dry paper towel. Turned to the lowest setting and lo and behold it started working! Thanks!💕🙏💕🙏😎
Those screws are called Tri-Wing, or (camel-case) TriWing, or short TW and it was invented by *drumroll* the Phillips Screw Company, so you have been replacing Phillips screws with Phillips screws.
I've been using these for years. Great Video. I normally run a fan through them in very cold rooms. No issues. This year two have failed in a home that is very warm. I read the comments and tHanks to other people's experiences I plan to just use the low settings in a warm home, and switch to Turbo Nuclear in cold houses.
John who? I ask because I only want youtubers like Matthias in my subscribed list. Yet, Matthias (and I guess Big Clive+Great Scott to a small degree) is the only one.
This is really useful content. Having to move to narrow oil filled from wide convector as landlord didn't like where I mounted it(on a door the rooms are tiny and wall space is scarse ) Looks like I'm going to have to do something with the thermostat as it practically cold before returning the power. I also happen to have an external thermostat which I could put inline with the power cord . The idea of doing a factory delete on the safety override is tempting, or at least remove a screw and bend it a bit so it's not directly touching the metal. I really do prefer convectors but I'm stuck in a corner here.
Thanks. I have always used the low setting on mine. If I need quick heat, I place a Lifesmart Infrared Heater a meter behind it and let the fan blow through the fins.
Watching this video was helpful and showed the unit I found out for trash a year ago [resettable fuse was tripped] was wired backward. Mode I [low power] was connected in-line with the thermal cutoff while Mode II [medium power] had no temperature regulation other than the temperature setting dial. As a result, using Mode II (or both for a Mode III/high power) caused the resettable fuse to consistently trip at varying time frames depending on the temperature dial setting. Unit is a Kenmore oil heater and may be worthwhile to check if someone reading this has one with similar issues.
I just installed a hybrid water heater. These pull heat out of the air and dump it into the water at about a 3/1 energy ratio. In Georgia, we need cooling and dehumidification about 8 months out of the year, so it makes perfect sense to put one of these in the basement. But if you're more concerned about heating your home than cooling it, they don't save energy in a setup like yours since you're buying the electricity to resistively convert directly to heat.
I've put together a lot of Canadian shower doors, and they use mostly philips. Every once in a while you'll see square #2. But Internet folk love to pretend like in Canada everything's Square drive, and that no one else on the planet has ever heard of it before.
Those are security screws, chosen to keep homeowners out. By the way, they're call "tri-wing" - useless information if there ever was any. Manufacturers would never use any kind of normal screw for that, no matter what "normal" is where you live.
@@paulkolodner2445 Quite the contrary, knowing the name is very usefulf for finding a set of the screwdrivers to buy. Still, it's better to just buy any random set of "security" bits.
I bought a 2500W one without being aware of this issue. I "fixed" it by buying the same kind of thermostat like you did, but mine was 110C and I bumped it up to 145C, and changed the thermal fuse from 133C to 165C. I know this is more on the dangerous side of things, but having looked at all the components inside they all seemed to be rated well above 165C, and I only use this while I'm in the same room with it, so I think it'll be fine. I'm even considering another +20C for the upcoming winter since the mineral oil they have inside can go well above 200C.
I use one of these in our nursery. I like that the surface never gets hot enough to burn. With the cheaper wire style heaters i was always worried my kids would find a way to get a hand through the guard, or stick something flammable through.
I use a small space heater like that to heat my son's room, he's a little over 18 mo now and he needs the room a lot warmer at night than my wife and I like, and since our house is zoned really poorly (in a way that wouldn't be cost effective to fix just yet), I'd have to heat practically the whole house just to heat his room. Electricity is extremely cheap where I am, so I could feasibly heat the whole house with electric heat.
It's not a design flaw. The 2-3 settings are for heating the radiator as well as the room a little faster than the 1 setting. The 3 setting only run for an hour. 2 setting 2 hours. Once the room is warmed up go to the 1 setting and set the thermostat in the middle. A lot of people tend to leave the radiator on the 2-3 with the thermostat all the way up. The unit will overheat and the shutoff will trip and fail eventually.
On mine (1500W), the over-heat thermostat is fine, but the high-watt switch contacts burned through. Lots of carbon bits. I removed all the wiring to the high-W element, and just use the low side. Takes longer to heat the area, but it's fine.
Great information. I have a delonghi with toggle switches that light up when they are on. I have noticed that the heater is no longer getting very hot, even with both switches on. Do they wear out or something that would cause them to work but stop getting quality hot?
A friend of mine burned her house down with one of these. It leaked some oil and the switch shorted and ignited the oil. Her boss - who owned the local Home Hardware - chopped off the power cords on every one he had in stock and stopped carrying them.
I was smelling something strange, maybe fire smoke coming in. Woodheat is used by many here in winter. Well I was getting sick so I unplugged oil heater and started it back up at night. The smell was coming from heater, it's toast! I do not recommened repairing. It did it's job for 5 years and not worth causing a fire!
I just had to take my dryer apart and it had identical sensor for regulating lower heat settings. I don't think they're really "over protection" sensors. I think they're just used as a means to regulate temperature
I have one of those 3 stage oil heaters, I keep it on the 3 setting all the time and turn the thermostat up halfway or a bit over half. Never had a problem with the overheat sensor. It is a Feature Comforts brand here in the US.
We do the same, just set it on the lowest setting and have it turned down so it only kicks in if its particularly cold (we have wood heating, so it usually kicks on a little before sunrise when the coals are starting to diminish.)
I replaced the thermal switch with manual reset and the oil heater works but I don’t remember the power led lighting up as soon as I plug it in. I remember lighting up when I set selector to low or other settings from off position. Is there something else that needs finding or is that normal?
Hi, I appreciate your video. Can you explain why you think the overheat thermostats aren’t designed for frequent use? Do kettles not work in this way. Thanks
Thank you. Can you advise please. My friend brought a challenge radiator for repair. I replaced the open 15 amp internal fuse and switched on but with bang and tripped a cct which was easily switched on. internal fuses ok. Thermo you show reads short. Is this issue. Please advise. Thank you Lewis uk
Hi there, What a coincidence, I started fixing my little oil heater a few days ago. The thermal fuse went. I replaced it and the neon light came on briefly, then went out again. There is still continuity through the thermal fuse. I will need to investigate further as had to stop and go out on an emergency plumbing job. Any ideas?
I bought one of these "eco/600/900/1200" oil-filed heaters and it just died after two years of use. I used it on all levels previously. I just bought a new one. If I only use it on 600 (per your suggestion,), do you think it might last longer? Whatever the case, I have no reason to leave it running all the time. I normally turn it off for at least 8-10 hours (during the night). Thanks.
I would live to fix my MaxiHeat 1500w oil heater. I've always used it on the lowest setting but recently it still stopped working. Where can I get these parts to fix and what exactly are they called? Thank you
I have a Holmes HOH2400 that says made in Italy. The dual rocker switch that allows you to select either or both to total 1500 watts, only works on the lower setting. The 2nd illuminated switch immediately cuts off when selected but even at half power it heats much more than electrics do. I am trying to find a source for that dual switch. I have a single 3 blade switch but they are combined. That model isn't even on Holmes website?
5:49 Excellent observation, and another reason for these cheap efficient, versatile heaters is that they are CHEAP as heck to replace if need be, don't have to fool with those high $$ repair costs in equipment & labor as the complete home setups
What would cause a almost brand new units selector switch not to turn. The unit was purchased in November and its January 21st now so almost new. We used only the Low and Medium Setting. But yesterday it locked up on the Low Setting and will not turn. Amazon is sending a replacement but I am curious as to why??? Many Thanks
The original KSD301 is 125v 16A 150, all the replacement on ebay and Amazon is 250v 10A (choice of NO or NC), what should I order? NO or NC, is that 150 Celcius? thanks.
Well, you have just about discovered the perfect rat's nest of annoyances: 1. Those damn screws. I had to buy a set of tri-wing drivers to fix an iron. I still had to crack it open after the screws were removed, only to discover that the bad part was sealed up inside ultrasonically-welded joints. 2. You can't use cheaper power because it will never pay for itself. I wonder what the economics looked like when the house was first constructed. The builders probably made the wrong choice out of stupidity. 3. What idiots design a heater that trips itself off under normal use? Apparently, there were two of them, cuz you have two different units there. The useless switch probably increased the price, too.
When they built the neighbourhood, oil was probably the best choice, cause that's what they put in all the houses. I imagine electricity was relatively more expensive, and it was pre oil crisis, when they even used oil to make electricity
I have now done my measurements over 36 hours and my heater does indeed appear to run on high indefinitely, a steady full-amperage draw and a steady high surface temperature--maintained the figures in my earlier comment.
I recently invested in the Wiha Kraftform Kompakt 62, a Screwdriver with a set of long bits that cover anything from Standard Philips Head all the way to security hex, torx and also tri and quad wing. At around 70€ quite the investment but to me its worth it. No more "oh god I hope this screwdriver will fit somehow" and much more "OMG I've never been able to tighten a PH1 screw without pressing on the back of the screwdriver before".
And here I am using my AMD FX computer as my heater. May as well get work done with the heat produced. Seriously, though, in my office I very rarely need to use the actual heater. Between the computer, stereo, and 5 monitors connected to said computer there is plenty of heat. While a bit of a problem normally due to energy consumption,crunching data is a great way to get more for your money with electric heat.
Toss in a bitcoin mining system or two and BBQ lunch and dinner and make the hot beverages of your choice, or start a sideline blacksmithing or forging (though wood based Matthias must forgo the latter pursuits).
I built my new house last year. When it came time to decide on a boiler to for my hydronic floor heating I settle on electric. At less than 10 cents a kWh it was the cheapest.
Split system "INVERTER" air conditioners are really cheap and have ~300% efficiency while heating. In Romania they cost around 300USD/unit (12000BTU). That being said, I use a simple, cheap fan heater, when I need instant heat. It cost like 9USD and has two levels: 1000W and 2000W.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 New units have a new refrigerant mixture, so they work even at -15C ... the resisitive heating element kicks in at -20-25C 👍 More expensive air conditioners can function even around -30C ambient, without switching on resistive heating .
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 a geothermal heat pump could replace your existing furnace and deliver heating to the entire house. But it will be a big capital investment, payback time will probably be in range of 8-15 years, depending on a lot of factors.
I don't have any of this electrical equipment to repair my Pelonis heater. Will the company take some accountability for the heater's design flaws and provide a working model in exchange for the faulty model? I won't make it through the winter without it.
I have a space heater that has two overheat protection thermostats that i assume both need replacing, could anyone provide any guidance...one is a ksd301 v3 10a 250v - 95 the other is a ksd301-r 16a250v 155
Interesting. The DeLonghi brand one I use for boost heat at one end of the house has 2 toggle switches, basically "low" and "medium". For normal use, they say to turn on both for initial warm-up and switch off the "medium" switch and use just the low power mode for maintenance heat. We don't have to turn it up very high, though -- anything over 2 or 3 (continuously variable but with numbered marks) gets too warm. We use the ceiling fan in reverse mode to circulate the warm air.
My old (circa 2005) DeLonghi worked great. Scorched the plug, so I bought a replacement heater (and outlet). The replacement sucks. I did some tests with a thermometer, and they were inconclusive. I got a Kill-a-Watt power meter to measure the power and current. The replacement is just like in this video. It runs 1500W until it heats up. Then the thermal switch kills element number 1 and it runs at 900W the rest of the time. I repaired the DeLonghi with a new 14/3 wire and added a ground. Works great again. "Old Faithful" I call her now.
If you put a cardboard chimney on top, would it not draw more air though the fins via the stack effect allowing you to get more power out of the heater? You could design it so that it covers the back so it draws air transferse though the fins too
You could also try swapping the overheat switch with a suitable PTC and wire that in series with the whole unit. That way the temperature will never exceed the trip-over temperature of the ptc, as the current decreases with temperature. The different power setting would then only control how fast the room heats up.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Relying on convection alone takes far longer to heat the space to a comfortable level. Most of that energy is going into heating the top 1/3rd of the space. By forcing the air to circulate in the room more of that energy is going into the air the occupants actually inhabit. So for the sake of efficiency that heat lose due to a more homogenous temperature would be paid back. I only have to run the heater for 10-20 minutes before using the space instead of 60-90.
My new Warmlite oil filled radiator keep tripping after about 10 minutes even on lowest settings and doesn't warm the room properly would changing this thermostat would solve the issue?
I wonder if putting a arduino to monitor temps and to modulate the heaters intelligently would be better than a literal dead on/off switch. I see no provision for sending less volts through the heating elements... But simple "on for 1 minute off for 2 minutes" might allow the temperature to be dialed in more accurately.
I really liked the video. The plug from my Delonghi heater is damaged but the power chord is still good. But I can't find a new cable to replace it where I live. So is it ok to replace the plug but keep the original chord? Thanks in advance
I have a Delonghi oil/electric heater and it just broke this morning. I plugged it in an outlet and wouldn't come out. I had to get my husband to unplug it and one of the prongs came out. It is possible to just replace the power cord?
Do you think it might be worth it to have a fan blow some air over the heater? Mainly as an attempt to get the fluid temperature down a bit to keep the overheat protection from tripping on settings 2 or 3.
Had one of these (about twice the size) when I was a kid, leaked oil a few times but don't remember seeing this problem, maybe the lawyers made them change it.
I think this has happened to our heater. Did you get a thermostat that's msinly open or mainly closed? I'm guessing if it only switches off at a certain temperature then it would need to be mainly open. Cheers
i think it also depends how hot the room is, as in a building which is at 10 degrees will cool the heater alot more than a building at 20 ( Celsius) i guess thats why they have a lower temperature cutoff
Yeah I was gonna say, it's probably designed to be the *only* heater in the house. If it's trying to heat up a good-sized room with no help and it's super cold out, those higher settings probably make more sense.
over in the uk we have Storage heaters, which are electric radiators that have a large battery inside them and only charge at night when their is a low rate. consider getting some of these if you have a variable cost/kwh
Do you remember the old storage heaters, still installed in many Georgian houses? They contained a brick which would heat up at night using cheaper-rate electricity and slowly release that heat during the day as the brick cooled. I wonder if they're still a thing.
Q1/...My Delonghi is leaking. A small amount of oil, the size of a nickel, you can see beneath the heater. Is this repair-able? Also appreciate any advice on it. Q2/ my OTHER oil filled rad heater is not turning on at all. What part has failed that it just simply doesn’t turn on at all anymore. Big thanks!
Had a few of these years ago and they worked great,dont remember the brand. they just worked so much better than the other types available. However recently ran across a few of the older very decorative water radiators for home heating an considered converting them into individual oil space heaters. but have been unable to find anything about this anywhere. I do quite a bit of repurposing of all sorts. and about the only thing i have found for these is putting a glass table top on it,in the middle of the dinning room. because that's as far as someone was able to move it. any links, thoughts or ideas would be extremely helpful. thanks
I had a relative in Iowa that heated his entire house using a hot water heater and pumping it through a radiator amd hooking it to his existing ducts. Worked great. You could do the same but pump the hot water through your newly obtained radiators.
I have an identical small heater and I've not noticed a problem like that. I have a similar large one as well. I suspect we both shop at Canadian Tire. The large one draws so much current that the 16 gauge power cord gets hot. I was thinking of swapping it out. I also wanted to comment on heating costs. I use wood pellets but the price has gone up such that they are at the same cost per BTU or watt. There is a factor of locality with heat. I don't need my basement as warm as my living room. So I use the more expensive natural gas for the first 17 degrees and then electric or wood pellets if I want to be warmer than that. But I too have done the math to show that electricity is the cheapest heat these days. I do find that prices vary, and it's nice to be able to choose the energy source that's least costly in a given year.
Not trying to troll you, but . . . doesn't it make sense to use the cheapest energy for the first X degrees, and then the more flexible but expensive forms to handle the peaks?
UK here, I've got a very similar heater (they're all basically the same just cosmetic differences) and I have this exact issue. I'll swap out the thermostat I reckon.
My "Comfort Zone" Oil Filled Heater constantly shuts off and on repeatedly. Then sometimes it shuts off and never comes back on. I'm afraid this may cause a fire someday. Does anybody have any recommendations or a fix for this short circuit or whatever it's called?
*Install was easy **fireplace.homes** good although I personally had some difficulty with the thermostat I had. Issue was mine though, not realizing that electric heaters couldn't use oil thermostats. Tip: If you are using an external thermostat, run the power to the thermostat, not the unit. Once that was squared away it worked great.*
Doubt you'll read this, but this helped immensely. I had been using the 900 watt setting on my space heater and it seemed like my room was constantly cold. When you posted this video, and showed the thermal cutoff being on the high side, I started using the 600 watt setting. Now my room is MUCH more comfortable. Thank you!
I read this .....2022 Happy Valentine's Day!
I have found that just putting a small oscillating fan behind the heater spreads the heat out better, and keeps it from overheating.
if I was wiling to have a fan, why not use heater that already has a fan built in?
Reminds me of the old saying that goes.like this. Wood warms you again and again...., chopping, hauling, splitting, stacking and burning.
Matthias random stuff You got told, Matthias.
@Khaffit Matthias just got Matthias'd, folks.
Yonatan24 never forget this day!
Mine was getting power but not heating. Older than the model you have. I took it apart and checked for damaged connections. Found nothing but it was a little dirty. I cleaned out the debris off connections and wiped it out with a dry paper towel. Turned to the lowest setting and lo and behold it started working! Thanks!💕🙏💕🙏😎
My 100 year old kerosene heater & 200 year old wood stove both work great and have never failed.
How are your lungs doing?
he's dead
@@DavidTermini
Those screws are called Tri-Wing, or (camel-case) TriWing, or short TW and it was invented by *drumroll* the Phillips Screw Company, so you have been replacing Phillips screws with Phillips screws.
Not called phillips .
I've been using these for years. Great Video. I normally run a fan through them in very cold rooms. No issues. This year two have failed in a home that is very warm. I read the comments and tHanks to other people's experiences I plan to just use the low settings in a warm home, and switch to Turbo Nuclear in cold houses.
Don't tell John but you are my favorite youtuber. Always watch your videos even when I dont understand them. Keep 'em coming!
John who? I ask because I only want youtubers like Matthias in my subscribed list. Yet, Matthias (and I guess Big Clive+Great Scott to a small degree) is the only one.
I love watching you analyze ordinary objects.
Thanks for posting it is very supportive program.
Very appreciate your teaching!
Blessings
This is really useful content. Having to move to narrow oil filled from wide convector as landlord didn't like where I mounted it(on a door the rooms are tiny and wall space is scarse )
Looks like I'm going to have to do something with the thermostat as it practically cold before returning the power.
I also happen to have an external thermostat which I could put inline with the power cord .
The idea of doing a factory delete on the safety override is tempting, or at least remove a screw and bend it a bit so it's not directly touching the metal.
I really do prefer convectors but I'm stuck in a corner here.
Next video: redesign the space heater so that it follows you around and shoots buttons at you
Thanks. I have always used the low setting on mine. If I need quick heat, I place a Lifesmart Infrared Heater a meter behind it and let the fan blow through the fins.
Watching this video was helpful and showed the unit I found out for trash a year ago [resettable fuse was tripped] was wired backward. Mode I [low power] was connected in-line with the thermal cutoff while Mode II [medium power] had no temperature regulation other than the temperature setting dial. As a result, using Mode II (or both for a Mode III/high power) caused the resettable fuse to consistently trip at varying time frames depending on the temperature dial setting. Unit is a Kenmore oil heater and may be worthwhile to check if someone reading this has one with similar issues.
I just installed a hybrid water heater. These pull heat out of the air and dump it into the water at about a 3/1 energy ratio. In Georgia, we need cooling and dehumidification about 8 months out of the year, so it makes perfect sense to put one of these in the basement. But if you're more concerned about heating your home than cooling it, they don't save energy in a setup like yours since you're buying the electricity to resistively convert directly to heat.
Using Phillips screws? In canada? I didnt think that was allowed
He said more sensible, not the MOST sensible. Ha.
Meh, Robertson for bigger things for sure, but I'm happy enough with philips on this kinda thing. Hex or Torx are best
I've put together a lot of Canadian shower doors, and they use mostly philips. Every once in a while you'll see square #2. But Internet folk love to pretend like in Canada everything's Square drive, and that no one else on the planet has ever heard of it before.
Those are security screws, chosen to keep homeowners out. By the way, they're call "tri-wing" - useless information if there ever was any. Manufacturers would never use any kind of normal screw for that, no matter what "normal" is where you live.
@@paulkolodner2445 Quite the contrary, knowing the name is very usefulf for finding a set of the screwdrivers to buy. Still, it's better to just buy any random set of "security" bits.
Glad I found you and a fix for my heater. Thank you.
I bought a 2500W one without being aware of this issue. I "fixed" it by buying the same kind of thermostat like you did, but mine was 110C and I bumped it up to 145C, and changed the thermal fuse from 133C to 165C. I know this is more on the dangerous side of things, but having looked at all the components inside they all seemed to be rated well above 165C, and I only use this while I'm in the same room with it, so I think it'll be fine. I'm even considering another +20C for the upcoming winter since the mineral oil they have inside can go well above 200C.
I use one of these in our nursery. I like that the surface never gets hot enough to burn. With the cheaper wire style heaters i was always worried my kids would find a way to get a hand through the guard, or stick something flammable through.
yes, that is another thing I like about them. Fairly safe around the kids.
Thank you very much for this very interesting and informative video presentation which is very much appreciated by the people.
I use a small space heater like that to heat my son's room, he's a little over 18 mo now and he needs the room a lot warmer at night than my wife and I like, and since our house is zoned really poorly (in a way that wouldn't be cost effective to fix just yet), I'd have to heat practically the whole house just to heat his room. Electricity is extremely cheap where I am, so I could feasibly heat the whole house with electric heat.
It's not a design flaw. The 2-3 settings are for heating the radiator as well as the room a little faster than the 1 setting. The 3 setting only run for an hour. 2 setting 2 hours. Once the room is warmed up go to the 1 setting and set the thermostat in the middle.
A lot of people tend to leave the radiator on the 2-3 with the thermostat all the way up.
The unit will overheat and the shutoff will trip and fail eventually.
On mine (1500W), the over-heat thermostat is fine, but the high-watt switch contacts burned through. Lots of carbon bits. I removed all the wiring to the high-W element, and just use the low side. Takes longer to heat the area, but it's fine.
Great information. I have a delonghi with toggle switches that light up when they are on. I have noticed that the heater is no longer getting very hot, even with both switches on. Do they wear out or something that would cause them to work but stop getting quality hot?
Well at least now I know what else is likely to go out on this damn thing. Great video thanks for posting!
A friend of mine burned her house down with one of these. It leaked some oil and the switch shorted and ignited the oil. Her boss - who owned the local Home Hardware - chopped off the power cords on every one he had in stock and stopped carrying them.
I was smelling something strange, maybe fire smoke coming in. Woodheat is used by many here in winter. Well I was getting sick so I unplugged oil heater and started it back up at night. The smell was coming from heater, it's toast! I do not recommened repairing. It did it's job for 5 years and not worth causing a fire!
Thanks. Where can you get limit switches?
I just had to take my dryer apart and it had identical sensor for regulating lower heat settings. I don't think they're really "over protection" sensors. I think they're just used as a means to regulate temperature
any suggestions on what type of cord to buy to replace the old one. my cat chewed up the cord on my costway 1500w unit
thanks for identifying the internal parts , looking at converting one to run on 47volts DC from the solar panels
I have one of those 3 stage oil heaters, I keep it on the 3 setting all the time and turn the thermostat up halfway or a bit over half. Never had a problem with the overheat sensor. It is a Feature Comforts brand here in the US.
the way its designed is that you can't tell when the overheat sensor goes off. Therefore, you have "no problem".
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Nice. Thanks for the answer!
We use a small one in our daughters room. They are so reliable
We do the same, just set it on the lowest setting and have it turned down so it only kicks in if its particularly cold (we have wood heating, so it usually kicks on a little before sunrise when the coals are starting to diminish.)
what would happen if you bypassed the fuse and the overheat cutoff switch ?
In a pinch, could i just bypass the thermal fuse and run on low?
Is the thermal switch NO or NC (normally open or normally closed)? Thanks!
I replaced the thermal switch with manual reset and the oil heater works but I don’t remember the power led lighting up as soon as I plug it in. I remember lighting up when I set selector to low or other settings from off position. Is there something else that needs finding or is that normal?
What type of thermostat you used for oil heater is it normally open NO or normally closed NC
Hi, I appreciate your video. Can you explain why you think the overheat thermostats aren’t designed for frequent use? Do kettles not work in this way. Thanks
Thank you. Can you advise please. My friend brought a challenge radiator for repair. I replaced the open 15 amp internal fuse and switched on but with bang and tripped a cct which was easily switched on. internal fuses ok. Thermo you show reads short. Is this issue. Please advise. Thank you Lewis uk
I love your video a lot! So informative ! Can you share the inside thermostat brand or specifications do I need? Thank you!
Hi there,
What a coincidence, I started fixing my little oil heater a few days ago. The thermal fuse went. I replaced it and the neon light came on briefly, then went out again. There is still continuity through the thermal fuse. I will need to investigate further as had to stop and go out on an emergency plumbing job.
Any ideas?
What temperature sensor are you using? 1-Wire Digital Thermometers DS18B20 ?
I bought one of these "eco/600/900/1200" oil-filed heaters and it just died after two years of use. I used it on all levels previously. I just bought a new one. If I only use it on 600 (per your suggestion,), do you think it might last longer? Whatever the case, I have no reason to leave it running all the time. I normally turn it off for at least 8-10 hours (during the night). Thanks.
I would live to fix my MaxiHeat 1500w oil heater. I've always used it on the lowest setting but recently it still stopped working. Where can I get these parts to fix and what exactly are they called? Thank you
Took my Cuori heater apart and found the power switch burnt on one of the connections. Where can I buy a replacement one online? Thanks.
Brilliant thanks, couldn't figure out what was going on but this was the problem.
I have a Holmes HOH2400 that says made in Italy. The dual rocker switch that allows you to select either or both to total 1500 watts, only works on the lower setting. The 2nd illuminated switch immediately cuts off when selected but even at half power it heats much more than electrics do.
I am trying to find a source for that dual switch. I have a single 3 blade switch but they are combined. That model isn't even on Holmes website?
5:49 Excellent observation, and another reason for these cheap efficient, versatile heaters is that they are CHEAP as heck to replace if need be, don't have to fool with those high $$ repair costs in equipment & labor as the complete home setups
Thanks for the tip about using these at level 1
What would cause a almost brand new units selector switch not to turn. The unit was purchased in November and its January 21st now so almost new. We used only the Low and Medium Setting. But yesterday it locked up on the Low Setting and will not turn. Amazon is sending a replacement but I am curious as to why??? Many Thanks
the high modes are intended for extremely cold ambient temps
This is helpful. I was wondering how you could even sell something like this but then I read your comment and was like ohhhhhhh. Duh.
The original KSD301 is 125v 16A 150, all the replacement on ebay and Amazon is 250v 10A (choice of NO or NC), what should I order? NO or NC, is that 150 Celcius? thanks.
How do you fix it when they start to stink?
That looks exactly like mine..the first one. What was the part you replaced?
Can the thermal fuse be changed (white casing around it)
Well, you have just about discovered the perfect rat's nest of annoyances:
1. Those damn screws. I had to buy a set of tri-wing drivers to fix an iron. I still had to crack it open after the screws were removed, only to discover that the bad part was sealed up inside ultrasonically-welded joints.
2. You can't use cheaper power because it will never pay for itself. I wonder what the economics looked like when the house was first constructed. The builders probably made the wrong choice out of stupidity.
3. What idiots design a heater that trips itself off under normal use? Apparently, there were two of them, cuz you have two different units there. The useless switch probably increased the price, too.
When they built the neighbourhood, oil was probably the best choice, cause that's what they put in all the houses. I imagine electricity was relatively more expensive, and it was pre oil crisis, when they even used oil to make electricity
I have now done my measurements over 36 hours and my heater does indeed appear to run on high indefinitely, a steady full-amperage draw and a steady high surface temperature--maintained the figures in my earlier comment.
Mine keeps tripping the house circuit breaker. I'm not using any more devices than I used to. What do you suppose is causing it?
Can you tell me the part that you ordered from Aliexpress. Was it a KSD 301 temperature sensor?
I recently invested in the Wiha Kraftform Kompakt 62, a Screwdriver with a set of long bits that cover anything from Standard Philips Head all the way to security hex, torx and also tri and quad wing.
At around 70€ quite the investment but to me its worth it. No more "oh god I hope this screwdriver will fit somehow" and much more "OMG I've never been able to tighten a PH1 screw without pressing on the back of the screwdriver before".
if the screwdriver hadn't fit, I could have just dremeled a slot into the screw.
What type of oil is used in the heater?
And here I am using my AMD FX computer as my heater. May as well get work done with the heat produced. Seriously, though, in my office I very rarely need to use the actual heater. Between the computer, stereo, and 5 monitors connected to said computer there is plenty of heat.
While a bit of a problem normally due to energy consumption,crunching data is a great way to get more for your money with electric heat.
Toss in a bitcoin mining system or two and BBQ lunch and dinner and make the hot beverages of your choice, or start a sideline blacksmithing or forging (though wood based Matthias must forgo the latter pursuits).
my old watercool 9590 with 2 watercool 390x did a very good job has a heater and pc
Very interesting, thanks Matthias
I built my new house last year. When it came time to decide on a boiler to for my hydronic floor heating I settle on electric. At less than 10 cents a kWh it was the cheapest.
Split system "INVERTER" air conditioners are really cheap and have ~300% efficiency while heating. In Romania they cost around 300USD/unit (12000BTU).
That being said, I use a simple, cheap fan heater, when I need instant heat. It cost like 9USD and has two levels: 1000W and 2000W.
Watch the video to the end. Only efficient when it's not cold outside. As in, only efficient when you don't really need it.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 New units have a new refrigerant mixture, so they work even at -15C ... the resisitive heating element kicks in at -20-25C 👍
More expensive air conditioners can function even around -30C ambient, without switching on resistive heating .
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 a geothermal heat pump could replace your existing furnace and deliver heating to the entire house. But it will be a big capital investment, payback time will probably be in range of 8-15 years, depending on a lot of factors.
I don't have any of this electrical equipment to repair my Pelonis heater. Will the company take some accountability for the heater's design flaws and provide a working model in exchange for the faulty model? I won't make it through the winter without it.
Could i bypass any of those over protection sensors ?
My heater tripping the rcd, what thermal overload do heater use normally open or normally close ?
normally closed.
I have a space heater that has two overheat protection thermostats that i assume both need replacing, could anyone provide any guidance...one is a ksd301 v3 10a 250v - 95 the other is a ksd301-r 16a250v 155
Would you put the part number in for the overheat thermostat for me thanks and approximate cost.
Interesting. The DeLonghi brand one I use for boost heat at one end of the house has 2 toggle switches, basically "low" and "medium". For normal use, they say to turn on both for initial warm-up and switch off the "medium" switch and use just the low power mode for maintenance heat. We don't have to turn it up very high, though -- anything over 2 or 3 (continuously variable but with numbered marks) gets too warm. We use the ceiling fan in reverse mode to circulate the warm air.
I had one of them and it worked great.
My old (circa 2005) DeLonghi worked great. Scorched the plug, so I bought a replacement heater (and outlet). The replacement sucks. I did some tests with a thermometer, and they were inconclusive. I got a Kill-a-Watt power meter to measure the power and current. The replacement is just like in this video. It runs 1500W until it heats up. Then the thermal switch kills element number 1 and it runs at 900W the rest of the time.
I repaired the DeLonghi with a new 14/3 wire and added a ground. Works great again. "Old Faithful" I call her now.
Would the higher setting be useful in a very cold setting?
Yes, if the room was well below freezing.
If you put a cardboard chimney on top, would it not draw more air though the fins via the stack effect allowing you to get more power out of the heater? You could design it so that it covers the back so it draws air transferse though the fins too
Possibly, but that would draw the heat to the ceiling, and no radiated heat, so overall, not a win.
How do you open. And remove front cover
You could also try swapping the overheat switch with a suitable PTC and wire that in series with the whole unit. That way the temperature will never exceed the trip-over temperature of the ptc, as the current decreases with temperature. The different power setting would then only control how fast the room heats up.
and half the power would go into the little PTC. These things are not suitable for this application.
Using one of these in the garage in winter I've always put a box fan to pull air through. I've never had mine trip this way, even on max.
yes, but by blowing the air around like that, you end up making sure all the walls are nice and warm, so you lose a lot more heat.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Relying on convection alone takes far longer to heat the space to a comfortable level. Most of that energy is going into heating the top 1/3rd of the space. By forcing the air to circulate in the room more of that energy is going into the air the occupants actually inhabit. So for the sake of efficiency that heat lose due to a more homogenous temperature would be paid back. I only have to run the heater for 10-20 minutes before using the space instead of 60-90.
My new Warmlite oil filled radiator keep tripping after about 10 minutes even on lowest settings and doesn't warm the room properly would changing this thermostat would solve the issue?
Thermostat is the most likely problem.
I wonder if putting a arduino to monitor temps and to modulate the heaters intelligently would be better than a literal dead on/off switch. I see no provision for sending less volts through the heating elements... But simple "on for 1 minute off for 2 minutes" might allow the temperature to be dialed in more accurately.
So if it ran out off oil how do we repair
I really liked the video. The plug from my Delonghi heater is damaged but the power chord is still good. But I can't find a new cable to replace it where I live. So is it ok to replace the plug but keep the original chord? Thanks in advance
of course it is
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
I have a Delonghi oil/electric heater and it just broke this morning. I plugged it in an outlet and wouldn't come out. I had to get my husband to unplug it and one of the prongs came out. It is possible to just replace the power cord?
you can just buy a replacement plug and out it at the end of the cord
Do you think it might be worth it to have a fan blow some air over the heater? Mainly as an attempt to get the fluid temperature down a bit to keep the overheat protection from tripping on settings 2 or 3.
That would definitely help. But if I'm going to have a fan, then I might as well get a heater that has a fan built in.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Then build a low speed crossflow fan into it?
It should give low noise-level and big area of airflow.
I'm using an oil heater which is around 2900watts on max settings and i never saw any safety features trip.
Had one of these (about twice the size) when I was a kid, leaked oil a few times but don't remember seeing this problem, maybe the lawyers made them change it.
I've never had these issues with similar types of heaters.
What could be the reason for no power light to come on?
I think this has happened to our heater. Did you get a thermostat that's msinly open or mainly closed? I'm guessing if it only switches off at a certain temperature then it would need to be mainly open. Cheers
I have the same heater do you have any idea if its posible to unscrew heating element?
never tried. If you try it, you will find out if its possible.
i think it also depends how hot the room is, as in a building which is at 10 degrees will cool the heater alot more than a building at 20 ( Celsius) i guess thats why they have a lower temperature cutoff
Yeah I was gonna say, it's probably designed to be the *only* heater in the house. If it's trying to heat up a good-sized room with no help and it's super cold out, those higher settings probably make more sense.
How is the TP Link power meter? Please tell us your observations.
works fine for my purposes
Is it safe to use a oil heater when there is a slight oil leak at the bottom? Can't see it running out, but leaves a small oil mark.
I wouldn’t! Also how old is it?
over in the uk we have Storage heaters, which are electric radiators that have a large battery inside them and only charge at night when their is a low rate. consider getting some of these if you have a variable cost/kwh
That makes sense if you have variable pricing through the day. we don't have that here (yet)
Do you remember the old storage heaters, still installed in many Georgian houses? They contained a brick which would heat up at night using cheaper-rate electricity and slowly release that heat during the day as the brick cooled. I wonder if they're still a thing.
Q1/...My Delonghi is leaking. A small amount of oil, the size of a nickel, you can see beneath the heater.
Is this repair-able? Also appreciate any advice on it.
Q2/ my OTHER oil filled rad heater is not turning on at all. What part has failed that it just simply doesn’t turn on at all anymore.
Big thanks!
do NOT use the leaking heater !!!!!
Im trying to find the power switch l,m,high for a utilitech ho-0201.
Had a few of these years ago and they worked great,dont remember the brand. they just worked so much better than the other types available. However recently ran across a few of the older very decorative water radiators for home heating an considered converting them into individual oil space heaters. but have been unable to find anything about this anywhere. I do quite a bit of repurposing of all sorts. and about the only thing i have found for these is putting a glass table top on it,in the middle of the dinning room. because that's as far as someone was able to move it. any links, thoughts or ideas would be extremely helpful. thanks
I had a relative in Iowa that heated his entire house using a hot water heater and pumping it through a radiator amd hooking it to his existing ducts. Worked great. You could do the same but pump the hot water through your newly obtained radiators.
I have an identical small heater and I've not noticed a problem like that. I have a similar large one as well. I suspect we both shop at Canadian Tire. The large one draws so much current that the 16 gauge power cord gets hot. I was thinking of swapping it out. I also wanted to comment on heating costs. I use wood pellets but the price has gone up such that they are at the same cost per BTU or watt. There is a factor of locality with heat. I don't need my basement as warm as my living room. So I use the more expensive natural gas for the first 17 degrees and then electric or wood pellets if I want to be warmer than that. But I too have done the math to show that electricity is the cheapest heat these days. I do find that prices vary, and it's nice to be able to choose the energy source that's least costly in a given year.
Not trying to troll you, but . . . doesn't it make sense to use the cheapest energy for the first X degrees, and then the more flexible but expensive forms to handle the peaks?
UK here, I've got a very similar heater (they're all basically the same just cosmetic differences) and I have this exact issue. I'll swap out the thermostat I reckon.
My 1500 watt oil filled radiator turn off after making hot i want it always turn on how can i do it
My "Comfort Zone" Oil Filled Heater constantly shuts off and on repeatedly. Then sometimes it shuts off and never comes back on. I'm afraid this may cause a fire someday. Does anybody have any recommendations or a fix for this short circuit or whatever it's called?
yes, but a shiny fancy new gas heater would LOOK really COOL!