Thanks Jim . I was not able to work out how to fit my vacuum pump to the headstock. I have the Oneway pump and adaptor. thanks again for the demonstration it is a great help.
Good video. FYI - compressor oil and vacuum pump oil have different characteristics. I would not use compressor oil in a vacuum pump. Also, I'd put a filter on the bleeder valve too. It is sucking in ambient air with sawdust, etc. Just a thought.
Hello Jim I enjoy your videos,I find them most informative and helpful. You talked about a list of components to make your vacuum system but I don't seem to see a link to that list?
Hi Jim. I have a 3 CFM cheap oil pump. It works great and draws a vacuum of at least -25inhg. However, the other day I used it on some Beech and could not get a vacuum better than -10, the piece could easily be pulled off by hand. I put another piece of wood on, and it was fine (around -29). So although I couldn't see any holes in the grain, there must have been lots of really small ones causing a leak. My question is, would upgrading to a 12 CFM pump get around this issue? If I could only reach -10 at 3CFM, what would you expect me to see at 12 CFM? ... my thinking is that the larger air flow would cope with the leak better than a lower CFM? but as they're quite a bit more expensive, I don't want to upgrade if I'm not going to get much of an increase in vacuum. Thanks!
You are correct that more CFM helps with porous woods. However, I also work with porous wood (redwood burls) and I finish the project Insafe and out before removing the tenon or faceplate. Then when I reverse the project onto the vacuum chuck there are less or no remaining leaks. After finishing I place the project on the vacuum chuck and test for specific areas of leakage with the tip of my fingure and cover those areas with blue painters tape. JimR
Hi Jim, maybe I missed it on the way... You talk about higher CFM... but u didn't specified what minimum, better or higher means, or did u? are 3 CFM ok, or should I go directly for 6CFM... Actually the cheap pumps didn't have a high price difference, so I think about buying a 6CFM, if it is no problem... Thanks in advance. Best Mario
Mario, CFM is only really important with a leaky vessel which will not hold a vacuum. I use a 2.5 CFM pump at school with excellent results as the complete system has no leaks that would affect the system's CFM. Always install a bleed valve and vacuum gauge so you can control the amount of negative pressure exerted on your project and not crush it. The cheap oil filled pumps from Harbor Freight or similar are also quite but do create a fine mist of oil.
@@JimRodgersWoodturner Hi Jim, thanks for the quick reply... We have oil pumps at work and we just use a long hose on the exhaust... The hose is curled up, so it doesn't need space... If u use a transparent one, you can see that there is no more oil after 2 or 3 meters and it all condenses at the beginning... Perfect cheap filter method... But thanks, I might go for a 6CFM pump to be on the safe side, since the price difference is pretty low... I might add some active cooling to the pump as well... Thanks again for the nice video.
CFM is only really important with a leaky vessel which will not hold a vacuum. I use a 2.5 CFM pump at school with excellent results as the complete system has no leaks that would affect the system's CFM. Always install a bleed valve and vacuum gauge so you can control the amount of negative pressure exerted on your project and not crush it. The cheap oil filled pumps from Harbor Freight or similar are also quite but do create a fine mist of oil.
Thanks Jim . I was not able to work out how to fit my vacuum pump to the headstock. I have the Oneway pump and adaptor. thanks again for the demonstration it is a great help.
Good video. FYI - compressor oil and vacuum pump oil have different characteristics. I would not use compressor oil in a vacuum pump. Also, I'd put a filter on the bleeder valve too. It is sucking in ambient air with sawdust, etc. Just a thought.
Hello Jim I enjoy your videos,I find them most informative and helpful. You talked about a list of components to make your vacuum system but I don't seem to see a link to that list?
The references are on my web site; here is a direct link: www.jlrodgers.com/tool-usages-new-items.html
Hi Jim. I have a 3 CFM cheap oil pump. It works great and draws a vacuum of at least -25inhg. However, the other day I used it on some Beech and could not get a vacuum better than -10, the piece could easily be pulled off by hand. I put another piece of wood on, and it was fine (around -29). So although I couldn't see any holes in the grain, there must have been lots of really small ones causing a leak. My question is, would upgrading to a 12 CFM pump get around this issue? If I could only reach -10 at 3CFM, what would you expect me to see at 12 CFM? ... my thinking is that the larger air flow would cope with the leak better than a lower CFM? but as they're quite a bit more expensive, I don't want to upgrade if I'm not going to get much of an increase in vacuum. Thanks!
You are correct that more CFM helps with porous woods. However, I also work with porous wood (redwood burls) and I finish the project Insafe and out before removing the tenon or faceplate. Then when I reverse the project onto the vacuum chuck there are less or no remaining leaks.
After finishing I place the project on the vacuum chuck and test for specific areas of leakage with the tip of my fingure and cover those areas with blue painters tape.
JimR
"inside and outside" (typo)
Hi Jim, maybe I missed it on the way... You talk about higher CFM... but u didn't specified what minimum, better or higher means, or did u? are 3 CFM ok, or should I go directly for 6CFM... Actually the cheap pumps didn't have a high price difference, so I think about buying a 6CFM, if it is no problem...
Thanks in advance.
Best
Mario
Mario,
CFM is only really important with a leaky vessel which will not hold a vacuum. I use a 2.5 CFM pump at school with excellent results as the complete system has no leaks that would affect the system's CFM. Always install a bleed valve and vacuum gauge so you can control the amount of negative pressure exerted on your project and not crush it. The cheap oil filled pumps from Harbor Freight or similar are also quite but do create a fine mist of oil.
@@JimRodgersWoodturner Hi Jim, thanks for the quick reply... We have oil pumps at work and we just use a long hose on the exhaust... The hose is curled up, so it doesn't need space... If u use a transparent one, you can see that there is no more oil after 2 or 3 meters and it all condenses at the beginning... Perfect cheap filter method...
But thanks, I might go for a 6CFM pump to be on the safe side, since the price difference is pretty low... I might add some active cooling to the pump as well...
Thanks again for the nice video.
CFM is only really important with a leaky vessel which will not hold a vacuum. I use a 2.5 CFM pump at school with excellent results as the complete system has no leaks that would affect the system's CFM. Always install a bleed valve and vacuum gauge so you can control the amount of negative pressure exerted on your project and not crush it. The cheap oil filled pumps from Harbor Freight or similar are also quite but do create a fine mist of oil.
Hi Jim, you mentioned a website we can go to and get your handout for the hardware, but I don’t see the link. What is the website? Thank you
The references are on my web site; here is a direct link: www.jlrodgers.com/tool-usages-new-items.html
@@JimRodgersWoodturner thank you sir!