etrailer and Ram Trailer Jack Rebuild

Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Camper Jacks,Gooseneck Coupler,Trailer Jack:
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...
Check out some similar Camper Jacks,Gooseneck Coupler,Trailer Jack options:
www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...
Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Camper Jacks,Gooseneck Coupler,Trailer Jack:
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...
Check out some similar Camper Jacks,Gooseneck Coupler,Trailer Jack options:
www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...
Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Camper Jacks,Trailer Jack:
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...
Check out some similar Camper Jacks,Trailer Jack options:
www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...
Click for more info and reviews of this etrailer Camper Jacks,Trailer Jack:
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...
Check out some similar Camper Jacks,Trailer Jack options:
www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...
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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-review-et...
Today we're going to be taking a look at the rebuild process for the etrailer or Ram brand 5,000 pound capacity top line style jacks. This is a heavy duty steel jack. They work out really, really well. On occasion you might have a bearing, maybe a handle that breaks, something like that. Rather than going through the expense of buying a new jack and having it welded on or reattached to your trailer, you can simply rebuild the one you've got and save quite a bit of money. We're going to start the rebuild process by removing our handle. You can see we've got just a bolt that's going to pass right through there.
A couple of 10 millimeters, we should be able to get that to come right off. Since this is a brand new jack we're just going to be showing you the rebuild process reusing the existing parts in there. One part is that is available is going to be the handle with bolt. This will be part number TJPB-HD. That'll include your knob, the crank arm itself, the attachment, and the bolt. Once we have that off you'll notice there's going to be a small washer right here.
I'm going to grab that and set it aside. You want to be sure that goes back on top. It's pretty much just going to be a matter of lifting this outside tube off of the inner tube. Once we've done that we'll have our bearing there, our thrust washer that that rides on. You can see that's going to give us between our screw as this turns and our outer jack housing that would sit there, that gives us a really nice friction-free area.
That bearing does a great job. You also see it's designed with kind of a cover on top. It's where the bottom of the bearing's going to be open, but the top helps shield the water off of. For the bearing and the washer you will need part number TJA-2000S0BR. It'll have the two parts that you need there. From that point, you see it's just a real simple mechanism.
You've got machine-style screw here that's going to force that jack leg down as we turn our handle. This part, very, very tough to actually mess up. The part we tend to see failure in is going to be either in the bearing or in the handle assembly itself. We'll put that right back down on there. I like to just use a little bit of grease and kind of get it down on here. If you're going to be in here, you're going to be rebuilding it, it's never to hurt anything to add just a little bit of extra lubricant there. Make sure and get some on the top of that bearing. That should just help us out. You'll see a small groove in the outer tube, and there's going to be a groove that will be the full length of the inner tube there. You want to be sure you line those up as you slide it back together. You see, it will come right out of the top. At that point you'll want to place your washer back on and the handle back on and reinstall our bolt. As we tighten our handle down we don't need to over tighten it. We just want to have it so that clamp comes down and squeezes on that main head of the screw. At that point you're ready to go. Sometimes, I don't know, you might run it into something, you might accidentally bump into it or hit it. Sometimes this knob that's on the top will crack or will break. What they've done is they've kind of spread out the top of our handle here, kind of open that up to hold that in place. What we're going to do is use a half inch drill bit right in the middle of that and it would be almost like we're grinding out a rivet or drilling out a rivet. Once we've got our old handle out of the way we'll take our new handle, I'm going to slide that

[@peteryao2008]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful and informative.

[@etrailer]

Thank you for the feedback! Check out the following link for more information on these components.
www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Trailer_Jack.aspx

[@borderlineapathetic]

It would be best to lube the whole screw and not just the very top, otherwise the screw will have no lube when extending. Heck, the only time that part of the screw sees action is when it's being stored and not under load.

[@etrailer]

Adding grease to the other parts of the jack is up to you. We want to make sure that the gears are protected so that they last for the years to come.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/HDKB-BLKF.html

[@bearknuckles100]

Sorry but what good does this do? Can you not take guts out of jack to show us what is inside? My jack failed and doesn't go up or down. I can turn the handle all week and it does nothing.