To give a bit of context on this. 9 Velo is run by a lady who is extremely modest and quiet - I met her at Eurobike. In the bike industry, quality is often measured by the paint job because you can touch it and feel it. The ability to measure fits, tolerances etc is limited as the measurement gear is expensive and most people don't have it. You also need a bit of training on how to use it. This wheelset (and especially the hub) addresses that, the quality is something you would be hard pushed to be able to see, you'd only notice in operation due to the low levels of vibration, good alignment and corresponding bearing life. The design and execution are exceptional.
Campy / Fulcrum were the first to go with zero nipple holes, way before tubeless hit the scene, originally it was designed increase strength while using thinner alloy, they also had a type of nipple that screwed into rim on their top end wheels.
@@veganpotterthevegan which Mavic rims had no inner spoke holes? I remember Campy Making a really big thing about the weight advantage vs strength of zero hole? I remember Mavic working with Hutchinson to create tubeless but they use tape and for a while tried a unique thick rubber strapping that was meant to replace the tape
@lovecycling193 Mavic Ksyriums for the road but if I recall correctly, their higher end Cross Max rims went hole free first. Neither were intended to be run tubeless at all, even their MTB wheels but people were running their MTB wheels tubeless nearly immediately. This is in the early 2000s.
@@lovecycling193 it actually took a while before Mavic made their hole free wheels tubeless compatible. They really dropped the ball there. If they fixed their hub problems and went tubeless, they would have taken over the market because they had pretty great market share when tubeless was trying to get established. Their market share went to crap around 2010-2012 as few companies would put them on complete bikes.
I'm not sure I've heard any actual bike mechanics wax rhapsodic on DT hubs because they were jewel-like precision works of art. Rather, it's because DT has designed a system that is simple and reliable. Most bike mechanics I know run DT hubs for the same reason that most car mechanics I know drive Toyotas: Because at the end of a long work day spent fixing everybody else's bikes, the last thing you feel like doing is fixing your own bike.
Good point, same reason for me. I once had a King hub which (not an engineer, didn’t measure anything) is supposed to be the pinnacle of precision and binned it within a year as it just wasn’t up to real world (muddy mtb) abuse.
@@Bonky-wonky I doubt you "binned them." If so, I wish I were your garbage collector! A King hub, properly cared for, will last a lifetime. The in-house angular contact bearings simply do not wear out over time. Clean, relubricate and keep in adjustment and you're good. Whereas industry standard (these hubs, DT, I9, Hope, and just about every other maker using "sealed cartridge" bearings) radial contact bearings wear out, develop side play and MUST be replaced. That plus the elegance of the King Ring Drive driven by the angled spline is indeed the pinnacle of durable freehub engagement.
@@dudeonbike800 binned it as in took it off the bike and put it on the shelf with other beautiful bikeparts. The biggest issue was skipping and developing play, despite using an oversized locking collar. It did run beautifully but just not the hub for me..
And DT spares are available. An important factor. I’m in danger of having to write off a whole Cannondale bike cos the headset is unusable and unavailable as a spare.
I love these wheels. Ordered them because of you, but today I sent the website to a friend and noticed they added your points to their description for the hub
Yep, use a magnet and a short ferromagnetic screw inserted in the nipple in order to lace this type of rim. Really pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
@@larrylem3582 I had to investigate how to do this too as i have a wheelset with no spoke holes from Winspace. Suggestion is to even get an old spoke, thread it through the nipple then cut it just long enough so it protrudes out of the wheel once the nipple is in. Then a strong magnet will help you guide the nipple in place. You then use some sort of clamping device around the nipple (a clothes pin would work) to hold the nipple in place as you unthread the sacrificial piece of spoke and thread in the actual one. Rinse and repeat.
@larrylem3582 I go the other way when I lace wheels like this. I run a string with a threaded piece of spoke(I made an eyelet in it which was a pain to do) through the wheel with a magnet and drag it to the valve hole. Then I thread the spoke in a nipple and pull it through. It's been the fastest thing for me.
campag and fulcrum have been doing that shit with the fully sealed rim bed for a while now. its a little fiddly but if you have a loose back door and dont mind getting railed its no worse than headset cable routing
About the spoke and magnet procedure, you can use a thin thread and insert it on nipple hole that snaped then vacuum it from the inlet that you mention and then guide the nipple through the wheel shell using the magnet to help you.
In 2006 I bought a set of Campy Zondas that had no holes in rim bed. Probably the most bulletproof wheels I ever had. Used them for 12+ years, done over 70kkm. Never went out of true.
I have a set of Fulcrums which were THE last rim brake, NOT mile wide rim, Campy record 10 compatible freehub wheels I could find 2 years ago (most likely not even made anymore 😡) with the sealed rim/no spoke holes, inners. I am not worried since I simply cannot even remember when the last time I broke a spoke, at all, and have been riding some ancient, 13mm inner rim width, rim brake, alloy Mavic Cosmic Elites while hitting some nasty craters/bumps at speed, and have never broken a spoke on those.
Oh man, non-drilled rims are the future. I recently built up a pair of Light Bicycles w/o spoke holes and not needing to deal with rim tape is gold. These look really nice.
What's wrong with rim tape? I'm not a wheel builder, but I think having access holes is much better for easy maintenance. Just don't use crappy rim tape (everything with a logo on it is a bad choice). I thought about to build a wheel on these hubs with LB rims.
I bought a 9velo wheelset (cd55) for my road bike last year and I have to say, they are absolutely amazing. With the typical DT Swiss ratchet hubsound they look and sound great. Would definitely recommend
Hi.. are you in the UK? If so just wondering what customs and VAT charges you got hit with for the wheels. From what I can see it’s 4% customs and 20% VAT.
Thanks Hambini for your work. Wheels should arrive this week. Question: Does it use the DT Swiss EXP tool set or does it have different measurements and need a special toolset to dissassemble, replace bearings etc. Cheers. Max
I have two sets of wheels with no spoke holes. Yoleo, as you stated, and they've been reliable and fast road bike wheels. My more recent set are for the gravel bike, and IIRC they are lightbicycle wheels (with DT Swiss hubs of course). I did break a spoke or two when my derailleur got pushed into the spokes on that set. One way to get a nipple around was to use fishing line leader, like flourocarbon, up through the spoke hole, then around to the valve hole. I've been a proponent of no spoke holes for years, and let me tell you - my tubeless gravel wheels lose air so much less than all my friends. They are incredulous that I can go two to four weeks without topping off my air before rides.
Campag were the first wheels I had with the hole free rim bed. Alloy spokes and nipples. Came with a metal screw to place in the alloy nipple so a magnet can be used to get the nipple to the hole. I was a bit concerned that this would be a pain but not needed to do it in over 10 years of ownership.
One of the reasons DTt is so popular with bike shops is the range and availability. Most of their hubs come in most axle sizes, there is a large range of hole options ( im sure Mr H will like that) and can come in straight pull or j bend plus any freehub fitting you need. Most countries probably have a good distribution network as well. But... for my new mtb wheels i bought some Funn hubs.
I love the humour on this channel but on a serious note just wanted to say I ordered some bearings from Hambini recently, they feel great, price was good and delivery was so quick
Seems my original comment got removed... I was wondering what kind of bearings you were ordering. Cause prices for e.g. 6806 LLB and 6803 LLU are practically double the price of what I am paying for them when buying from a local bearing shop. So definitely cannot agree with "price was good" part. (talking about NTN in both cases of course)
@@michalhosala4708 sure, mine was a mh-p16k headset bearing, 40x52x7 36/45. I can't comment on other prices, I don't think this one is quite as common with needing the internal 36 degree chamfer and 45 external. But it's still the same price currently, 8.95. delivery 5.95 but it was posted like an hour after my order and arrived next day, was sent special delivery. That's without vat so I think it was like 17 total. Not outrageous compared to other places especially considering the postage option used. Based on Hambinis presence, again maybe it's just me but I thought it would significantly higher cost just due to his outreach and reputation. Edit, it's there now, not sure what's going on
@@michalhosala4708 yeah so did mine, not sure what's going on there. I put a long reply with the bearing and everything, but as a summary, the specific bearing I needed was well within price range of others I found
@@jrooker1113 cycling shops are, from my experience, always charging ridiculous sums for bearings. Therefore I resorted to buying them from specialized bearing shops only.
I like DT Swiss hubs just because you are getting good quality. GOOD quality. When it comes to hubs, i personally like Kappius components who is now out of business. Sadly they use a standard bearing, so the bearing isnt too special like Chris Kings bearings, but it still runs pretty well so i wonder if theyve done something different there. I used to work for Chris King, so i know how to use all that measuring equipment.
Today, Hambini (c)reams! Just a word on the points of engagement, the ratchet being at the hub means the degeees of freedom at the crank varies by gear. I currently have a 36 point of engagement rear hub on my MTB, and i really dont like it for climbing because it translates to about 17 degrees of freedom at the crank in the 52t. Granted, it would be less with road gearing, but it's worth noting.
About spoke replacement: Fulcrum for example use some tiny magnet that threads into the nipple, then with another magnet you pull the nipple through the wheel to the desired spot. It's not the most straightforward operation but it works
Campy wheels & Fulcrum wheels require (or did based on the wheels I have) using a magnet to replace a nipple. It isn't that difficult, just requires a bit of fiddling, but works when you get the hang of it.
I’ve seen that sealed rim bed design on a few wheelsets. Mavic and Fulcrum are two that come to mind. If you’re planning on running tubeless it’s the way to go in my opinion.
I recently had to rebuild a wheel without spoke holes using a magnet to put the nipples in place. The guys in the bike shop thought it would be a nightmare but it was fine. Just cut an old steel spoke for the magnet and the nipples popped in fine. Don’t let no spoke holes put you off buying a set of wheels.
Hambini, what a review. Have taken advantage of the Hambini discount. Wheels have arrived and first impression these are sound. Best described as the "duck's nuts".
"Now, you know, you go through GCN, Dave Arthur and all the other fucking knob-cheeses..." I fucking love you Hambini! I must have replayed that 20 times. And totally agree with your sentiment. Not that it needs to be said, but never, ever stop being you. ♥
So…if choosing to upgrade from stock rims on a gravel bike, would one choose the Reserve 40/44s or the 9Velo Gravel GV? This is for all-road riding - road, gravel, mixed, etc
You could thread the nipple with a thin fishing line (or sewing thread perhaps) and then make a knot behind the nipple (without cutting the line afterwards). Then guide the line from the valve-hole to the nipple bed/hole with a vacuum. The knot will pull the nipple an you can then pull back the fishing line / thread when the nipple is placed correctly
Thanks Hambini, great and honest review as ever. Actually, on the subject of broken spokes for this wheel, spokes tend to break in the joint with the hub (a know stress point) or at the end of the threads coming out of the nipple (again a high stress point). If you're lucky, you can leave the nipple in the rim, unwind the broken spoke and carefully wind in a new one. Use long nose pliers to hold the nipple until the spoke has seated in the thread, then use a spoke key.
Hi Hambini I am guy that that was on live stream from euro bike, dave Arthur Murray mint. I am speaking out uncensored about the cycling SHILL channels uncensored as I have nothing to loose. All in and balls deep to carry on the work you and PT has done in a smash and grab way that I hope honours your work. GCN TECH BS video about bike price £15k justification against motor bikes has been shafted. Murray Mint is next😂😂😂 If you like get behind it and I will up the anti 😂😂😂
I think the word Clyburn was looking for to distract his people was (revelry). A revellie is a bugle ceremony. Loved the Freudian slip at the end. We knew what he meant. He had it right the first time.
For re-spoking that wheel, I would use hoover and cotton. Hoover a length of cotton from valve hole to spoke hole, once the cotton is all the way through, attached the nipple. Not all nipples are magnetic
Oddly specific question - Does anyone know how the 9Velo rear hub dimesons line up vs. a DT ratchet hub? Basically have DT 350 rear hub, would like to run two wheelsets but hoping the hubs are close enough in dimensions so that I don't have to make any shifting adjustments (rotors are easy as they can be shimmed).
How I built my wheels with rims with no nipple access holes. To get nipples through I used an old Dyson vacuum cleaner for suction through nipple holes. You most likely figured out the shape of the vacuum hose tip for maximum suction depending on the shape of rim. I cut an old threaded part of a spoke(about 10mm or so, so it can get through the enclosed rim section with tooth froth attached to it). I thread a nipple to the threaded part of the mentioned tool. And attach the vacuum cleaner hose on the rim at a spoke hole closet to the valve hole first to suck the loose end of the tooth froth which is fed through the valve hole. Make sure the tooth froth is long enough for the farthest nipple hole from the valve hole. As for my experience, once the loose end of the tooth froth comes through a nipple hole the nipple comes right through the nipple hole. Patience is the most important aspect of this process. Good luck to you if you go along with this method.
Liking the garden shed garage review setting but just because the bearings look like NTN quality and tolerances are the same doesn't mean the 52100 bearing steel is the same quality.
@@jaro6985 He is quite a belligerent person,he calls David Arthur a dick cheese and others,I'm not sure if UA-cam has contacted him about his surly comments.😕👎🏻
Wow, impressive! The furious five year old can't crap on a product, and actually says nice things? Who the hell is this Hambini imposter? I need proof that an AI and Rusdian hackers haven't taken the Hambini's channel over!
I’m loving how these independent wheels are starting to gain way more traction. Never again will I buy a set of zipp wheels. These look decent. I’m beyond the curbside bling showing off fancy brands, all about performance and quality
@@truantray yeah high end brands you are paying for their marketing over quality. I can vouch for zipp bearings they use being cheaper than the worst out there. Instantly replaced for ntn and a noticeable difference, but eventually I will replace all my wheels for ones like these. Strength and quality for me over a name
Will you do a review on the 9VELO MT40 for mtb? What are your thoughts, DT ex1700 or 9velo mt40? difference is 300$. I dont like on the dtswiss the fact that it's 28h and the nipples are aluminium while 9velo uses 32h and brass nipples.
It sounds like they had to get tolerances that tight in order to provide a reliable fit for that special seal. My question would be, how do actual DT wheels work with their "bad" tolerances. You keep tiptoeing around a full review of those.
Does precise manufacturing tolerances relate directly to great performance and reliability? Combining these technical deep dives with longer term real world use analysis would be mega, but appreciate there’s only so much one man can achieve in a given timeframe.
The better the mfg tolerance - the better the reliability, it's obvious that if parts fit correctly they're a lot less likely to damage each other and should last longer
@@stuvademakaroner9607 Indeed I agree with you. I’m very limited in my engineering knowledge so excuse my naivety for asking, but could there not be other factors at play that determine reliability eg quality of the materials used? For example, the carbon layup of the rims wasn’t investigated; could they withstand heavy abuse from a 90+kg rider?
@@HazzyWazzey have you seen such investigations of other wheels? I doubt there is much difference between carbon rim manufacturers, if there are no visible defects it should be perfectly fine, especially for road/gravel
great video Hambini. I'm going to get their new carbon spoke road wheelset I think, after seeing your video, instead of winspace/ lun hyper. Very impressed bby the engineering quality and bearings. Now the frameset.. is it possible for you to get your hands on a Nich Legend 4 frameset from Thailand to work your 5-year old magic on? press-fit bb, so I have some fear over the tolerance ( have only ever had a caad12 with it's pos BB issues)!
Excellent video. Surprised at the price for such quality too. Interestingly, if my pen is working, Reggie's hairdresser also uses the same tortuous path Labyrinth seals. Great to see 9velo manufacture the same design.
IGPS are great value for money. Paid £45 for mine. The maps are a bit hard to read. The early heartrate monitors used to drop out when you passed a phone tower but the newer versions are fine. Battery failed on mine after 3 years , IGPS don't support replacement but got one online and soldered it in and still going strong.
If you broke a spoke, unless it broke down by the nipple you’d be able to grab the broken end, pull it, then put a clamp on the nipple to keep it from falling into the wheel. Then unscrew the broken spoke and replace - once you’ve screwed the new spoke into the nipple remove the clamp and tighten.
There’s a way of guiding a spoke inside those rims… use dental floss (considering there isn’t any carbon fiber loose inside) and then aspirate it with a vacuum cleaner so you connect both holes… the rest is guiding the nipple through the floss (tied to the de tal floss)
I use a gear cable thread it through the valve hole to the vacant spoke hole pick it out will a spoke slide your new spoke nipple (remember to get it the correct way) slide it through
In a world full of mediocrity at best. It's always fantastic to see real quality of engineering. All power to them. Might have to get a set. But I prefer to build my own.
Hi, I'm wondering if the same applies for MTB hubs/wheels as well as the road wheels ? Are there better hubs in mtb world or is this also just the best option ? Thanks, for really informative video!
I bought a pair of tubeless-ready DT Swiss wheels (R-1400 I think they were called) in 2010 that weren't drilled for nipples, and the design probably goes back before that.
As I watch this, there are 7400 views and counting, and only about 500 likes. I seriously don't get how you can watch this and not like it, there are FEW reviews floating around on the witchcraft bike industry that actually show you data and numbers. I can't seem to figure out if this hub is on ALL of their wheels or not, their site doesn't really market the tech or name it so you can easily cross reference. They need a new pen most likely for the website.
The info should be there, this hub is the V8318 and is listed under the specification section for the CV45 wheels. The LV series now use the V261 ratchet type and the NV series use V340 6 pawl system. So these are their top hubs I believe.
No need to use magnet for niple. Just use wire, bend wire end on niple end, pass wire through valve hale to the spoke hole - fish wire, and then pull wire out with little force :), easy
I see you are a fellow Kuru Toga Pencil user!! This means I must have chosen the right Mechanical pencil. The self sharpening means it my goto for most thing!
I want to try a set of mt30 wheels to replcace my dt swiss wheels which have had notchy bearings practically from new.. does anyone know which is the best shipping option to use for uk? One option says 'duty prepaid' for $50. Does this mean ill be stung for taxes with the free option?
For those kinds of rims, you can use an air compressor and a vacuum to pull string through the hole, and then thread the nipple through. Pain in the butt however you can use different nipples than steel.
I think one of the problems in cycling is that the current product quality is just enough for the average customer. At the same time, a lot of people don't have the depth of technical knowledge to demand a higher level of quality from brands. 🤷♂ I mean, it's great that these hubs are an "engineering art" but does it really matter? 🤔
Have to say that bike industry is mostly hindered by patents. Patent do protect the original idea for sure, but as a consumer, I mostly feel like they are abused to an extended that limits emerge of better products. (Shimano being registering its hood design and others cannot have LED around the shifter hood is simply ridiculous.)
I ordered my MTB rim from AliExpress, didn't want the double wall holes as when i use tube sometimes it moves the rim tape, i used a magnet tied to a string and when the magnet comes out i let the nipple go along with the string to the hall, it took me some time but i did it.
I love your content even though I'm personally mtb/trail/enduro guy. Any chance of getting content regarding mtb products or manufacturers? If not maybe a suggested content creator or something?
@@Hambini awesome! It's such a different world. It's not about aerodynamic or friction or watts etc. Rather suspensions and brakes are in a really big part. Especially now that they are engineering electronics into forks and rear suspensions things are getting extremely complicated and they won't tell everything to "protect" secrets. Especially now that emtbs are so common. I'm rocking bafang bbs02b 750w myself 😁
19:50 honest question: does this really matter for this kind of application? like I feel like the brake disc can run out anyways, there are so many forces randomly in that surface of the disc, its not going to spin in a perfect circle when you break anyway, on the hub surface its whatever, the hub, I could see why you care about that, but at the end of the day, I am pretty sure the cogs roller indents are not even closely to that kind of tolerance from an engineering standpoint, I see what you mean, but I feel like at these tolerances it should not matter
Nice looking set of wheels. I recently found my new gravel wheel to be improperly dished, so I fixed it. In the process I found the decals on the rim to be INCREDIBLY annoying when truing the wheel.😠 Maybe the 9Velo are flush with the rim, but if not, be aware that they can be equally annoying
Their new wheels like the GV 2.0, LV 2.0 and CD 2.0 come in a different design, and here instead of using decals or enamel, they just laser etch it directly onto the rim.
Thanks, looks like a great wheelset. One there webpage are two versions of this wheelset: "Ceramic" and "TI-Grey". Any idea what the difference is? The pictures seem to be the same?
The "Ceramic" version comes with ceramic bearings and the "TI-Grey" with regular steel bearings. Apparently, the "TI-Grey" hub has some special anti-corrosive coating - I just like the looks more. I bought the exact same wheel set a few months ago, but haven't tested them yet (I use old alloy wheels for winter riding)
@Hambini Can you make a video comparing traditional flanged hubs with J-bend spokes against straight pull spoke hubs? Some people speculate that the alleged advantage of taking away the (alleged?) stress point at the J-bend is really a hoax, and that the real reason manufacturers are switching to straight pull is that it is less time consuming to lace the wheel. At the same time, some people think that traditionally flanged hubs with J-bend spokes make for a stiffer wheel, since the spokes have more of an angle inwards from the hub to the rim..
With hubs that use J-bend spokes, wheelbuilders can choose the amount of spoke cross lacing suitable for each wheel, like whether you want a front rim brake wheel to run radial or 2x lacing.
Sorry to be a pain Hambini but for future reference... spoke numbers are generally an even number each side. Which would give 20, 24, 28, 32, 36 etc. as a total. Probably only someone like Fulcrum/Campag has messed about with odd numbers on one side laterally laced with a one to two ratio of drive to non-drive side. Great wheels but good luck getting them re-built. As a high end bespoke wheel builder for almost twenty years... I agree DT Swiss hubs are good ish but there are better. From a spoke POV always Sapim imho, especially if you can afford CX-Ray... These wheels do look very nice, a bespoke builder would probably struggle to compete on price. I'd like to see a long term review from someone who puts in serious gravel miles. Proof of the pudding and all that!. Would interested to see drive verses non drive spoke tension and if nipple washers (oh er missis) have been used to protect carbon spoke holes when riding tough gravel routes. I've built wheels that have been around the world and are still in true. 😊
As a super heavy rider (~150kg) I would love to see a structural test for heavy rides. As far as I know all carbon wheel manufacturers stick to the EN/DIN rules and don't design or test with heavier "loads". 9Velo's GV series claims to have "no rider weight limit" but as we know, there is a limit to everything. But where exactly? The CC45 road wheels you tested have a limit of 120kg but we all know they won't fail at 125kg… any maybe not at 135kg. But where is the safety limit?
I have a set of the GV 45 and they're fantastic. Use them on my Scott Addict with 32mm Bontrager hardcase lite tyres. Tyres measure just under 34mm at 55psi. Very comfy and heaps of grip.
Frankly, I still don’t quite get why I should take a closer look to this manufacturer or other manufacturers shipping from China directly. Quality might be fine in some cases, but in case of failure or any warranty claims things will obviously become much more difficult and less clear to handle than just contacting your UK (or, in my case, Germany) based dealer. All this would be fine if the price difference to the typical renowned wheels was exceptional - which it is not, I’m afraid. Feel free to prove me wrong, but I don’t get it yet.
DT hubs. As far as I'm concerned are a one point of engagement hub as far as in if any tooth is compromised, I.E, something gets between them be it a grain of sand or a piece of swarf, all the teeth miss engaging and slip. I HAVE seen two people break collar bones through these hubs. People bang on about regular servicing being so easy but come on, how difficult are pawled hubs to service. Look at any mechanics ratchet, 99.9% are pawls and last decades without a thought.
Which is what makes Chris King the art & engineering champion. The harder you pedal, the more force acts on engaging the ratchets. Relying on a .8mm deep beveled surface is cutting it pretty close on the DT!
I would have bought 9velo, however for rim brake they only have 19mm internal with 26mm external. Seems that's where everyone is for rim brake except for Winspace (21-27.7), so I bought those.
Honest question, how and to what extent does the hub’s run off affect ride quality and bearing lifespan? I wonder how many watts are lost by a bearing that’s ever so slightly dragging, and whether this is actually noticeable by a normal rider, let alone on a gravelbike or mtb where drag/rolling is affected by so much more than just the bike’s rolling speed.
Agree with you on hooked rims. Maybe I'm a ludite but actually always ready to consider new tech. I just don't get hookless on bikes, no matter the pressure
Carbon layup for rims is incredibly difficult and expensive. That's why ENVE demands $950 per rim. The hook makes them just that much more difficult. Instead of allowing tire manufacturers to slide on quality control, hookless rims require more exacting standards. Something one would think Hambini would applaud. Apparently F1, Indycar, and every tried & true motor vehicle on the road seem to utilize hoolkess rims without problem. Why can't the bike industry do the same?' (And yes, I appreciate the fact that motor vehicles have the advantage of being able to add mass without much side effect. Bikes can't do this nearly as easily without drawback.)
@@dudeonbike800 yes, car wheels are hookless and pressures are around mountain bike 30 psi. But on a side note, here’s a conundrum- why does your car tyres hold 30psi for weeks or longer yet not one ever of any of my bike wheel / tyre tubeless set ups can hold the pressure for more than a day. I’ve got 5 sets of tubeless wheels from Hunt MTB and latest version DT Swiss road wheels and Far Sports (Chinese brand) and Syncros road wheels all hooked, and all with current modern tyres yet they don’t hold pressure and you have to inflate them virtually every day to ride (given quite precise pressures give the best performance)
@@shred3005 no conundrum at all. And I even provided the answer in my post: weight. And volume too. If a bicycle tire were made with as much rubber as a car tire, they'd weight FAR TOO MUCH to be much use. Again, motor vehicles can add mass without problem. Just add a few HP if needed. Bicycles do not enjoy this luxury. I'm happy with the current tire trade-off. Off road performance of 18-20psi tubeless tires far exceeds the previous iteration. Without question. Far, far fewer flats overall and pinch flats all but eliminated. I'll take the "inconvenience" of having to top off my tires more frequently for the many benefits. Yup, accurate gauge usage is now a requirement. Today's mountain bikes are unreal and so user-friendly compared to the rigid bikes we rode in the early 80's.
To give a bit of context on this. 9 Velo is run by a lady who is extremely modest and quiet - I met her at Eurobike. In the bike industry, quality is often measured by the paint job because you can touch it and feel it. The ability to measure fits, tolerances etc is limited as the measurement gear is expensive and most people don't have it. You also need a bit of training on how to use it. This wheelset (and especially the hub) addresses that, the quality is something you would be hard pushed to be able to see, you'd only notice in operation due to the low levels of vibration, good alignment and corresponding bearing life. The design and execution are exceptional.
Campy / Fulcrum were the first to go with zero nipple holes, way before tubeless hit the scene, originally it was designed increase strength while using thinner alloy, they also had a type of nipple that screwed into rim on their top end wheels.
@@lovecycling193Mavic did it before Campy even came up with Fulcrum wheels
@@veganpotterthevegan which Mavic rims had no inner spoke holes? I remember Campy Making a really big thing about the weight advantage vs strength of zero hole? I remember Mavic working with Hutchinson to create tubeless but they use tape and for a while tried a unique thick rubber strapping that was meant to replace the tape
@lovecycling193 Mavic Ksyriums for the road but if I recall correctly, their higher end Cross Max rims went hole free first. Neither were intended to be run tubeless at all, even their MTB wheels but people were running their MTB wheels tubeless nearly immediately. This is in the early 2000s.
@@lovecycling193 it actually took a while before Mavic made their hole free wheels tubeless compatible. They really dropped the ball there. If they fixed their hub problems and went tubeless, they would have taken over the market because they had pretty great market share when tubeless was trying to get established. Their market share went to crap around 2010-2012 as few companies would put them on complete bikes.
I'm not sure I've heard any actual bike mechanics wax rhapsodic on DT hubs because they were jewel-like precision works of art. Rather, it's because DT has designed a system that is simple and reliable. Most bike mechanics I know run DT hubs for the same reason that most car mechanics I know drive Toyotas: Because at the end of a long work day spent fixing everybody else's bikes, the last thing you feel like doing is fixing your own bike.
Good point, same reason for me. I once had a King hub which (not an engineer, didn’t measure anything) is supposed to be the pinnacle of precision and binned it within a year as it just wasn’t up to real world (muddy mtb) abuse.
@@Bonky-wonkyunlucky, my king hubset is 18yrs old now. I strip, clean and regrease them twice a year. Still run like new on original bearings.
@@Bonky-wonky I doubt you "binned them." If so, I wish I were your garbage collector! A King hub, properly cared for, will last a lifetime. The in-house angular contact bearings simply do not wear out over time. Clean, relubricate and keep in adjustment and you're good. Whereas industry standard (these hubs, DT, I9, Hope, and just about every other maker using "sealed cartridge" bearings) radial contact bearings wear out, develop side play and MUST be replaced.
That plus the elegance of the King Ring Drive driven by the angled spline is indeed the pinnacle of durable freehub engagement.
@@dudeonbike800 binned it as in took it off the bike and put it on the shelf with other beautiful bikeparts. The biggest issue was skipping and developing play, despite using an oversized locking collar. It did run beautifully but just not the hub for me..
And DT spares are available. An important factor. I’m in danger of having to write off a whole Cannondale bike cos the headset is unusable and unavailable as a spare.
I love these wheels. Ordered them because of you, but today I sent the website to a friend and noticed they added your points to their description for the hub
Yep, use a magnet and a short ferromagnetic screw inserted in the nipple in order to lace this type of rim. Really pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
Ah, a simple solution. At first, I was wondering how a magnet would be used on a brass nipple...
@@larrylem3582 I had to investigate how to do this too as i have a wheelset with no spoke holes from Winspace. Suggestion is to even get an old spoke, thread it through the nipple then cut it just long enough so it protrudes out of the wheel once the nipple is in. Then a strong magnet will help you guide the nipple in place. You then use some sort of clamping device around the nipple (a clothes pin would work) to hold the nipple in place as you unthread the sacrificial piece of spoke and thread in the actual one. Rinse and repeat.
@larrylem3582 I go the other way when I lace wheels like this. I run a string with a threaded piece of spoke(I made an eyelet in it which was a pain to do) through the wheel with a magnet and drag it to the valve hole. Then I thread the spoke in a nipple and pull it through. It's been the fastest thing for me.
@@larrylem3582 well same for alu nipples, right? 🤨
campag and fulcrum have been doing that shit with the fully sealed rim bed for a while now. its a little fiddly but if you have a loose back door and dont mind getting railed its no worse than headset cable routing
About the spoke and magnet procedure, you can use a thin thread and insert it on nipple hole that snaped then vacuum it from the inlet that you mention and then guide the nipple through the wheel shell using the magnet to help you.
Just imagine a TIME FRAME with a 9Velo wheelset: Hambini would swoon like a Princess
In 2006 I bought a set of Campy Zondas that had no holes in rim bed.
Probably the most bulletproof wheels I ever had.
Used them for 12+ years, done over 70kkm. Never went out of true.
I have a set of Fulcrums which were THE last rim brake, NOT mile wide rim, Campy record 10 compatible freehub wheels I could find 2 years ago (most likely not even made anymore 😡) with the sealed rim/no spoke holes, inners.
I am not worried since I simply cannot even remember when the last time I broke a spoke, at all, and have been riding some ancient, 13mm inner rim width, rim brake, alloy Mavic Cosmic Elites while hitting some nasty craters/bumps at speed, and have never broken a spoke on those.
Oh man, non-drilled rims are the future. I recently built up a pair of Light Bicycles w/o spoke holes and not needing to deal with rim tape is gold. These look really nice.
What's wrong with rim tape? I'm not a wheel builder, but I think having access holes is much better for easy maintenance.
Just don't use crappy rim tape (everything with a logo on it is a bad choice).
I thought about to build a wheel on these hubs with LB rims.
I bought a 9velo wheelset (cd55) for my road bike last year and I have to say, they are absolutely amazing. With the typical DT Swiss ratchet hubsound they look and sound great. Would definitely recommend
Hi.. are you in the UK? If so just wondering what customs and VAT charges you got hit with for the wheels. From what I can see it’s 4% customs and 20% VAT.
Thanks Hambini for your work. Wheels should arrive this week. Question: Does it use the DT Swiss EXP tool set or does it have different measurements and need a special toolset to dissassemble, replace bearings etc. Cheers. Max
You can usually get the required tool off Amazon. They are not that expensive
Hambini: "DT Swiss get Completely RINSED BY 9Velo . . . " Imagine what 10Velo will do!
Glad to see you post this! I am a happy 9velo customer. My gravel wheelset is amazing
i'm looking for the GV45, but the 26mm inner width had me wondering if it is too much. Have you liked it?
I have two sets of wheels with no spoke holes. Yoleo, as you stated, and they've been reliable and fast road bike wheels. My more recent set are for the gravel bike, and IIRC they are lightbicycle wheels (with DT Swiss hubs of course). I did break a spoke or two when my derailleur got pushed into the spokes on that set. One way to get a nipple around was to use fishing line leader, like flourocarbon, up through the spoke hole, then around to the valve hole.
I've been a proponent of no spoke holes for years, and let me tell you - my tubeless gravel wheels lose air so much less than all my friends. They are incredulous that I can go two to four weeks without topping off my air before rides.
Hello,
Are the yoeleo wheels reliable ?
Campag were the first wheels I had with the hole free rim bed. Alloy spokes and nipples. Came with a metal screw to place in the alloy nipple so a magnet can be used to get the nipple to the hole. I was a bit concerned that this would be a pain but not needed to do it in over 10 years of ownership.
Campagnolo AND Fulcrum... Rgr
One of the reasons DTt is so popular with bike shops is the range and availability. Most of their hubs come in most axle sizes, there is a large range of hole options ( im sure Mr H will like that) and can come in straight pull or j bend plus any freehub fitting you need. Most countries probably have a good distribution network as well. But... for my new mtb wheels i bought some Funn hubs.
One of the things I like about DT Swiss is how easy their hubs are to service. The number of internals are easier to keep track of as well.
I love the humour on this channel but on a serious note just wanted to say I ordered some bearings from Hambini recently, they feel great, price was good and delivery was so quick
Seems my original comment got removed... I was wondering what kind of bearings you were ordering. Cause prices for e.g. 6806 LLB and 6803 LLU are practically double the price of what I am paying for them when buying from a local bearing shop. So definitely cannot agree with "price was good" part. (talking about NTN in both cases of course)
@@michalhosala4708 sure, mine was a mh-p16k headset bearing, 40x52x7 36/45. I can't comment on other prices, I don't think this one is quite as common with needing the internal 36 degree chamfer and 45 external. But it's still the same price currently, 8.95. delivery 5.95 but it was posted like an hour after my order and arrived next day, was sent special delivery. That's without vat so I think it was like 17 total. Not outrageous compared to other places especially considering the postage option used. Based on Hambinis presence, again maybe it's just me but I thought it would significantly higher cost just due to his outreach and reputation. Edit, it's there now, not sure what's going on
@@michalhosala4708 yeah so did mine, not sure what's going on there. I put a long reply with the bearing and everything, but as a summary, the specific bearing I needed was well within price range of others I found
@@jrooker1113 cycling shops are, from my experience, always charging ridiculous sums for bearings. Therefore I resorted to buying them from specialized bearing shops only.
@@jrooker1113 I didn't remove either of the comments so I don't know what's going on.
I like DT Swiss hubs just because you are getting good quality. GOOD quality. When it comes to hubs, i personally like Kappius components who is now out of business. Sadly they use a standard bearing, so the bearing isnt too special like Chris Kings bearings, but it still runs pretty well so i wonder if theyve done something different there. I used to work for Chris King, so i know how to use all that measuring equipment.
Happy with my 9 velo LV45 rim wheelset zero issues in 8k kms.. (6mnths). Will be getting this disc set for the other roadie soon....
Today, Hambini (c)reams!
Just a word on the points of engagement, the ratchet being at the hub means the degeees of freedom at the crank varies by gear. I currently have a 36 point of engagement rear hub on my MTB, and i really dont like it for climbing because it translates to about 17 degrees of freedom at the crank in the 52t. Granted, it would be less with road gearing, but it's worth noting.
Thanks!
Thankyou!
What a cracking set of wheels. When you said 'where is my pen...cil, I thought boy that was close one!
About spoke replacement: Fulcrum for example use some tiny magnet that threads into the nipple, then with another magnet you pull the nipple through the wheel to the desired spot. It's not the most straightforward operation but it works
Campy wheels & Fulcrum wheels require (or did based on the wheels I have) using a magnet to replace a nipple. It isn't that difficult, just requires a bit of fiddling, but works when you get the hang of it.
I think this is the first kind words I've every heard you say - makes it all the more remarkable lol.
I’ve seen that sealed rim bed design on a few wheelsets. Mavic and Fulcrum are two that come to mind. If you’re planning on running tubeless it’s the way to go in my opinion.
Light bicycle has had it as an option for a while as well
You can probably use the Park Tool Internal cable router for the spoke routing issue.
I recently had to rebuild a wheel without spoke holes using a magnet to put the nipples in place. The guys in the bike shop thought it would be a nightmare but it was fine. Just cut an old steel spoke for the magnet and the nipples popped in fine. Don’t let no spoke holes put you off buying a set of wheels.
Oh boy, exactly what i was waiting for!
Hambini, what a review. Have taken advantage of the Hambini discount. Wheels have arrived and first impression these are sound. Best described as the "duck's nuts".
Would the model with ceramic bearings provide any additional benefits? They are the same price.
"Now, you know, you go through GCN, Dave Arthur and all the other fucking knob-cheeses..."
I fucking love you Hambini! I must have replayed that 20 times. And totally agree with your sentiment.
Not that it needs to be said, but never, ever stop being you. ♥
So…if choosing to upgrade from stock rims on a gravel bike, would one choose the Reserve 40/44s or the 9Velo Gravel GV? This is for all-road riding - road, gravel, mixed, etc
If I had a brake bike or was building one up, this would be my wheel choice. Thanks for the details.
You could thread the nipple with a thin fishing line (or sewing thread perhaps) and then make a knot behind the nipple (without cutting the line afterwards). Then guide the line from the valve-hole to the nipple bed/hole with a vacuum. The knot will pull the nipple an you can then pull back the fishing line / thread when the nipple is placed correctly
Thanks Hambini, great and honest review as ever. Actually, on the subject of broken spokes for this wheel, spokes tend to break in the joint with the hub (a know stress point) or at the end of the threads coming out of the nipple (again a high stress point). If you're lucky, you can leave the nipple in the rim, unwind the broken spoke and carefully wind in a new one. Use long nose pliers to hold the nipple until the spoke has seated in the thread, then use a spoke key.
The labyrinth seal explains why flappy bird was so difficult to
Ace review as always, two questions; is this still known as 'the lick' and can we a hub sound check vid with the princess blanket behind 🙏?
Hi Hambini I am guy that that was on live stream from euro bike, dave Arthur Murray mint. I am speaking out uncensored about the cycling SHILL channels uncensored as I have nothing to loose. All in and balls deep to carry on the work you and PT has done in a smash and grab way that I hope honours your work. GCN TECH BS video about bike price £15k justification against motor bikes has been shafted. Murray Mint is next😂😂😂 If you like get behind it and I will up the anti 😂😂😂
I think the word Clyburn was looking for to distract his people was (revelry). A revellie is a bugle ceremony. Loved the Freudian slip at the end. We knew what he meant. He had it right the first time.
For re-spoking that wheel, I would use hoover and cotton. Hoover a length of cotton from valve hole to spoke hole, once the cotton is all the way through, attached the nipple. Not all nipples are magnetic
You buy a small insert to fit in the nipple to attract the magnet. Lead the nipple to position, unscrew the insert and do the rest. Rgr
Oddly specific question - Does anyone know how the 9Velo rear hub dimesons line up vs. a DT ratchet hub? Basically have DT 350 rear hub, would like to run two wheelsets but hoping the hubs are close enough in dimensions so that I don't have to make any shifting adjustments (rotors are easy as they can be shimmed).
Thanks for speaking up for quality.
How I built my wheels with rims with no nipple access holes.
To get nipples through I used an old Dyson vacuum cleaner for suction through nipple holes. You most likely figured out the shape of the vacuum hose tip for maximum suction depending on the shape of rim. I cut an old threaded part of a spoke(about 10mm or so, so it can get through the enclosed rim section with tooth froth attached to it). I thread a nipple to the threaded part of the mentioned tool. And attach the vacuum cleaner hose on the rim at a spoke hole closet to the valve hole first to suck the loose end of the tooth froth which is fed through the valve hole. Make sure the tooth froth is long enough for the farthest nipple hole from the valve hole. As for my experience, once the loose end of the tooth froth comes through a nipple hole the nipple comes right through the nipple hole. Patience is the most important aspect of this process.
Good luck to you if you go along with this method.
By tooth froth do you mean floss?
I will try a Dyson vac on my nipples, thank you.
Liking the garden shed garage review setting but just because the bearings look like NTN quality and tolerances are the same doesn't mean the 52100 bearing steel is the same quality.
2023 hambini would just straight up say anything non NTN branded is shit without even testing it.
@@jaro6985 He is quite a belligerent person,he calls David Arthur a dick cheese and others,I'm not sure if UA-cam has contacted him about his surly comments.😕👎🏻
What does @Hambini say about the rim brake models? Do they also meet the standard of disc version. Would be happy to receive an answer.
Wow, impressive!
The furious five year old can't crap on a product, and actually says nice things?
Who the hell is this Hambini imposter?
I need proof that an AI and Rusdian hackers haven't taken the Hambini's channel over!
Ai would not get the humour
@@Hambini Nor the language, I presume... Rgr
Imagine AI trying to get the Pen is working or banging hairdresser
I’m loving how these independent wheels are starting to gain way more traction. Never again will I buy a set of zipp wheels. These look decent. I’m beyond the curbside bling showing off fancy brands, all about performance and quality
Zipp has always been about marketing BS. The dimpled boundary layer is a grift that just keeps giving.
@@truantray yeah high end brands you are paying for their marketing over quality. I can vouch for zipp bearings they use being cheaper than the worst out there. Instantly replaced for ntn and a noticeable difference, but eventually I will replace all my wheels for ones like these. Strength and quality for me over a name
Will you do a review on the 9VELO MT40 for mtb? What are your thoughts, DT ex1700 or 9velo mt40? difference is 300$. I dont like on the dtswiss the fact that it's 28h and the nipples are aluminium while 9velo uses 32h and brass nipples.
Hambini is the sh!t Well done mate I will seriously look into 9Velo's wheels
Hambini I have dropped the Murray mint shill video for your approval😂. I hope it hits the shilling bike industry square in the chebbs 😮😂😂😂😂
It sounds like they had to get tolerances that tight in order to provide a reliable fit for that special seal. My question would be, how do actual DT wheels work with their "bad" tolerances. You keep tiptoeing around a full review of those.
That review is available, just not on YT. ie it's paid.
Thank you for a great review on an understated quality product. :)
Does precise manufacturing tolerances relate directly to great performance and reliability? Combining these technical deep dives with longer term real world use analysis would be mega, but appreciate there’s only so much one man can achieve in a given timeframe.
The better the mfg tolerance - the better the reliability, it's obvious that if parts fit correctly they're a lot less likely to damage each other and should last longer
@@stuvademakaroner9607 Indeed I agree with you. I’m very limited in my engineering knowledge so excuse my naivety for asking, but could there not be other factors at play that determine reliability eg quality of the materials used? For example, the carbon layup of the rims wasn’t investigated; could they withstand heavy abuse from a 90+kg rider?
@@HazzyWazzey have you seen such investigations of other wheels? I doubt there is much difference between carbon rim manufacturers, if there are no visible defects it should be perfectly fine, especially for road/gravel
@@stuvademakaroner9607 what’s with the attitude? 😂
@@HazzyWazzey idk I'm totally chill
great video Hambini. I'm going to get their new carbon spoke road wheelset I think, after seeing your video, instead of winspace/ lun hyper. Very impressed bby the engineering quality and bearings. Now the frameset.. is it possible for you to get your hands on a Nich Legend 4 frameset from Thailand to work your 5-year old magic on? press-fit bb, so I have some fear over the tolerance ( have only ever had a caad12 with it's pos BB issues)!
Hambini - Please review th new 9velo LV45 road wheels. Not sure how they differ frome these?
Excellent video. Surprised at the price for such quality too. Interestingly, if my pen is working, Reggie's hairdresser also uses the same tortuous path Labyrinth seals. Great to see 9velo manufacture the same design.
IGPS are great value for money.
Paid £45 for mine. The maps are a bit hard to read. The early heartrate monitors used to drop out when you passed a phone tower but the newer versions are fine. Battery failed on mine after 3 years , IGPS don't support replacement but got one online and soldered it in and still going strong.
Are the wheel decals easily removable? Thank
If you broke a spoke, unless it broke down by the nipple you’d be able to grab the broken end, pull it, then put a clamp on the nipple to keep it from falling into the wheel. Then unscrew the broken spoke and replace - once you’ve screwed the new spoke into the nipple remove the clamp and tighten.
There’s a way of guiding a spoke inside those rims… use dental floss (considering there isn’t any carbon fiber loose inside) and then aspirate it with a vacuum cleaner so you connect both holes… the rest is guiding the nipple through the floss (tied to the de tal floss)
I use a gear cable thread it through the valve hole to the vacant spoke hole pick it out will a spoke slide your new spoke nipple (remember to get it the correct way) slide it through
In a world full of mediocrity at best. It's always fantastic to see real quality of engineering. All power to them. Might have to get a set. But I prefer to build my own.
Looking to buy new wheels and I think you changed my mind. 9Velo all the way!
If they can improve the branding logo assimilating the design concept from winspace, this would be a 5 stars banger.
Was there any duties to pay on these wheels as there coming from America ?? Many thanks 🙏
Hi, I'm wondering if the same applies for MTB hubs/wheels as well as the road wheels ? Are there better hubs in mtb world or is this also just the best option ?
Thanks, for really informative video!
9velo uses h-works hubs for it wheels. Not sure who own what, but I'm 100% these are, maybe bit customized, h-works hubs in all 9velo wheels.
h- works owns 9 velo.
@@Hambinino, they don’t. I know the owners personally.
@@mrmarcus7350 they said they did when I spoke to them, or a chunk of it.
I bought a pair of tubeless-ready DT Swiss wheels (R-1400 I think they were called) in 2010 that weren't drilled for nipples, and the design probably goes back before that.
"Curbs and crappy roads" - spoken like a true kölner :-D
can never be underprepared here
As I watch this, there are 7400 views and counting, and only about 500 likes. I seriously don't get how you can watch this and not like it, there are FEW reviews floating around on the witchcraft bike industry that actually show you data and numbers. I can't seem to figure out if this hub is on ALL of their wheels or not, their site doesn't really market the tech or name it so you can easily cross reference. They need a new pen most likely for the website.
The info should be there, this hub is the V8318 and is listed under the specification section for the CV45 wheels. The LV series now use the V261 ratchet type and the NV series use V340 6 pawl system. So these are their top hubs I believe.
No need to use magnet for niple. Just use wire, bend wire end on niple end, pass wire through valve hale to the spoke hole - fish wire, and then pull wire out with little force :), easy
Shame they aren't offering the hubs standalone. I would have loved to use these in my custom wheelbuilds.
Well the ratchet patent just ran out and the Chinese started to offer ratchet hubs the very next day. You can even use DT Swiss parts in these hubs.
I see you are a fellow Kuru Toga Pencil user!!
This means I must have chosen the right Mechanical pencil. The self sharpening means it my goto for most thing!
I want to try a set of mt30 wheels to replcace my dt swiss wheels which have had notchy bearings practically from new.. does anyone know which is the best shipping option to use for uk? One option says 'duty prepaid' for $50. Does this mean ill be stung for taxes with the free option?
For those kinds of rims, you can use an air compressor and a vacuum to pull string through the hole, and then thread the nipple through. Pain in the butt however you can use different nipples than steel.
I think one of the problems in cycling is that the current product quality is just enough for the average customer. At the same time, a lot of people don't have the depth of technical knowledge to demand a higher level of quality from brands. 🤷♂ I mean, it's great that these hubs are an "engineering art" but does it really matter? 🤔
Have to say that bike industry is mostly hindered by patents. Patent do protect the original idea for sure, but as a consumer, I mostly feel like they are abused to an extended that limits emerge of better products. (Shimano being registering its hood design and others cannot have LED around the shifter hood is simply ridiculous.)
I re-laced a Farsports rim without holes and it was a piece of cake. I think easier than applying rim tape which I suck at.
I ordered my MTB rim from AliExpress, didn't want the double wall holes as when i use tube sometimes it moves the rim tape, i used a magnet tied to a string and when the magnet comes out i let the nipple go along with the string to the hall, it took me some time but i did it.
I love your content even though I'm personally mtb/trail/enduro guy. Any chance of getting content regarding mtb products or manufacturers? If not maybe a suggested content creator or something?
Working on it!
@@Hambini awesome! It's such a different world. It's not about aerodynamic or friction or watts etc. Rather suspensions and brakes are in a really big part. Especially now that they are engineering electronics into forks and rear suspensions things are getting extremely complicated and they won't tell everything to "protect" secrets.
Especially now that emtbs are so common. I'm rocking bafang bbs02b 750w myself 😁
19:50 honest question: does this really matter for this kind of application? like I feel like the brake disc can run out anyways, there are so many forces randomly in that surface of the disc, its not going to spin in a perfect circle when you break anyway, on the hub surface its whatever, the hub, I could see why you care about that, but at the end of the day, I am pretty sure the cogs roller indents are not even closely to that kind of tolerance
from an engineering standpoint, I see what you mean, but I feel like at these tolerances it should not matter
Nice looking set of wheels. I recently found my new gravel wheel to be improperly dished, so I fixed it. In the process I found the decals on the rim to be INCREDIBLY annoying when truing the wheel.😠 Maybe the 9Velo are flush with the rim, but if not, be aware that they can be equally annoying
Their new wheels like the GV 2.0, LV 2.0 and CD 2.0 come in a different design, and here instead of using decals or enamel, they just laser etch it directly onto the rim.
@@DonnieX6 nice, laser etched is the way to go
@@WowRixter Indeed! Also saving some grams for the weight weenies, hehe... Will probably pull the trigger on a set of GV 2.0's :)
2:24 mark - Hahaha almost spat out my Natty Ice beer!
So where can we buy these magical hubs? Do they have an other brandname they sell them separately? I can sure use a good alternative to DT swiss
H works
@@Hambini Thanks! Do you have experience with more of their hubs and are they all that well manufactured?
Thanks, looks like a great wheelset. One there webpage are two versions of this wheelset: "Ceramic" and "TI-Grey". Any idea what the difference is? The pictures seem to be the same?
The "Ceramic" version comes with ceramic bearings and the "TI-Grey" with regular steel bearings. Apparently, the "TI-Grey" hub has some special anti-corrosive coating - I just like the looks more.
I bought the exact same wheel set a few months ago, but haven't tested them yet (I use old alloy wheels for winter riding)
Ordered the TI Grey@@natursyndk
Anybody tried the LV55? How do they compare?
ua-cam.com/video/6kP03pELRbs/v-deo.html
So who manufacturers these hubs again? Can they be purchased in U.S. easily?
@Hambini
Can you make a video comparing traditional flanged hubs with J-bend spokes against straight pull spoke hubs?
Some people speculate that the alleged advantage of taking away the (alleged?) stress point at the J-bend is really a hoax, and that the real reason manufacturers are switching to straight pull is that it is less time consuming to lace the wheel.
At the same time, some people think that traditionally flanged hubs with J-bend spokes make for a stiffer wheel, since the spokes have more of an angle inwards from the hub to the rim..
With hubs that use J-bend spokes, wheelbuilders can choose the amount of spoke cross lacing suitable for each wheel, like whether you want a front rim brake wheel to run radial or 2x lacing.
@@sbccbc7471 That is true, and thank you for weighing in.
It is not what I’m asking about, though.
Sorry to be a pain Hambini but for future reference... spoke numbers are generally an even number each side. Which would give 20, 24, 28, 32, 36 etc. as a total.
Probably only someone like Fulcrum/Campag has messed about with odd numbers on one side laterally laced with a one to two ratio of drive to non-drive side. Great wheels but good luck getting them re-built.
As a high end bespoke wheel builder for almost twenty years... I agree DT Swiss hubs are good ish but there are better. From a spoke POV always Sapim imho, especially if you can afford CX-Ray...
These wheels do look very nice, a bespoke builder would probably struggle to compete on price. I'd like to see a long term review from someone who puts in serious gravel miles. Proof of the pudding and all that!.
Would interested to see drive verses non drive spoke tension and if nipple washers (oh er missis) have been used to protect carbon spoke holes when riding tough gravel routes.
I've built wheels that have been around the world and are still in true. 😊
I've seen plenty of wheels that have an odd spoke count? 21:18 is quite a popular amount.
As a super heavy rider (~150kg) I would love to see a structural test for heavy rides. As far as I know all carbon wheel manufacturers stick to the EN/DIN rules and don't design or test with heavier "loads". 9Velo's GV series claims to have "no rider weight limit" but as we know, there is a limit to everything. But where exactly? The CC45 road wheels you tested have a limit of 120kg but we all know they won't fail at 125kg… any maybe not at 135kg. But where is the safety limit?
they won't fail at 150kg on tarmac
This is actually their road series. The gravel one is GV, with 26 mm inner width.
I have a set of the GV 45 and they're fantastic. Use them on my Scott Addict with 32mm Bontrager hardcase lite tyres. Tyres measure just under 34mm at 55psi. Very comfy and heaps of grip.
Makes more sense indeed
Frankly, I still don’t quite get why I should take a closer look to this manufacturer or other manufacturers shipping from China directly. Quality might be fine in some cases, but in case of failure or any warranty claims things will obviously become much more difficult and less clear to handle than just contacting your UK (or, in my case, Germany) based dealer. All this would be fine if the price difference to the typical renowned wheels was exceptional - which it is not, I’m afraid.
Feel free to prove me wrong, but I don’t get it yet.
DT hubs. As far as I'm concerned are a one point of engagement hub as far as in if any tooth is compromised, I.E, something gets between them be it a grain of sand or a piece of swarf, all the teeth miss engaging and slip. I HAVE seen two people break collar bones through these hubs. People bang on about regular servicing being so easy but come on, how difficult are pawled hubs to service. Look at any mechanics ratchet, 99.9% are pawls and last decades without a thought.
Which is what makes Chris King the art & engineering champion. The harder you pedal, the more force acts on engaging the ratchets. Relying on a .8mm deep beveled surface is cutting it pretty close on the DT!
Never bought from China before - these look awesome - need road wheels for Genesis Croix de Fer. Recommended?
I would have bought 9velo, however for rim brake they only have 19mm internal with 26mm external. Seems that's where everyone is for rim brake except for Winspace (21-27.7), so I bought those.
Honest question, how and to what extent does the hub’s run off affect ride quality and bearing lifespan? I wonder how many watts are lost by a bearing that’s ever so slightly dragging, and whether this is actually noticeable by a normal rider, let alone on a gravelbike or mtb where drag/rolling is affected by so much more than just the bike’s rolling speed.
Put it this way, it's better to have lower run out. Usually you have to pay more for better tolerances, On this occasion you pay lss
Agree with you on hooked rims. Maybe I'm a ludite but actually always ready to consider new tech. I just don't get hookless on bikes, no matter the pressure
Carbon layup for rims is incredibly difficult and expensive. That's why ENVE demands $950 per rim. The hook makes them just that much more difficult. Instead of allowing tire manufacturers to slide on quality control, hookless rims require more exacting standards. Something one would think Hambini would applaud.
Apparently F1, Indycar, and every tried & true motor vehicle on the road seem to utilize hoolkess rims without problem. Why can't the bike industry do the same?'
(And yes, I appreciate the fact that motor vehicles have the advantage of being able to add mass without much side effect. Bikes can't do this nearly as easily without drawback.)
@@dudeonbike800 yes, car wheels are hookless and pressures are around mountain bike 30 psi. But on a side note, here’s a conundrum- why does your car tyres hold 30psi for weeks or longer yet not one ever of any of my bike wheel / tyre tubeless set ups can hold the pressure for more than a day. I’ve got 5 sets of tubeless wheels from Hunt MTB and latest version DT Swiss road wheels and Far Sports (Chinese brand) and Syncros road wheels all hooked, and all with current modern tyres yet they don’t hold pressure and you have to inflate them virtually every day to ride (given quite precise pressures give the best performance)
@@shred3005 no conundrum at all. And I even provided the answer in my post: weight. And volume too. If a bicycle tire were made with as much rubber as a car tire, they'd weight FAR TOO MUCH to be much use. Again, motor vehicles can add mass without problem. Just add a few HP if needed. Bicycles do not enjoy this luxury.
I'm happy with the current tire trade-off. Off road performance of 18-20psi tubeless tires far exceeds the previous iteration. Without question. Far, far fewer flats overall and pinch flats all but eliminated. I'll take the "inconvenience" of having to top off my tires more frequently for the many benefits. Yup, accurate gauge usage is now a requirement.
Today's mountain bikes are unreal and so user-friendly compared to the rigid bikes we rode in the early 80's.
I don't suppose the cute little beaver has a discount code for 9Velo