75 is the maximum voltage input from the solar panels, 15 is the maximum number of amps the controller will output to the battery. Theoretically you can input as much solar in watts as you like as long as the voltage is under 75, but the controller will 'clip' the output to 15amps. Victron state you can oversize the pv array by 130% for warranty purposes.
Same here it clicked in my head after I built my first setup. So I changed to a 24v system to get more. It seems I am allway learning somthing new with solar.
I am just now converting over to Victron One of the things I love With the charge controllers it’s extremely easy to string four of them together, so you could start off small and build up as you’re able to.
it will deliver max 15 amp to the max voltage of the battery, (so 12v battery @14 volt it will deliver 210watts) i use a 300wp panel on this controller and it will just limit the in/output @ max 220 watts, so no problem there
You can have a maximum of 220W of solar with a 12V system on that controller if you look at the specs for it. The maximum Voc of the panels must not exceed 75V. The 15 is the max charge current that the controller can deliver.
Is the max current based on the panel output or the max current charging capacity? 75 volts x 15 amps = 1125 watts. If it's the max current charging 12V x 15 amps = 180 Watts 24V x 15 amps = 360 Watts. I read that suggested not to use the load connections for any higher current load inverters connect directly through a fused wire to the battery bank. I'm assuming 15 amp limit if it's for the load that can be bypassed by not using it.
@@Mike-01234 75 = max PV array voltage to the controller. 15 = max output amps to your batteries. You can wire 2+ panels in series without them creating a 12/24/36/48v system. You want the output voltage of the panels to overcome the voltage of your batteries. The controller then converts the 75v max from the panels to a maximum of 15a charge to your batteries, whether it’s a 12/24v battery system in this controller's capability.
@@cmprvn I had to upgrade my controller to a 60-amp controller (Epever 60A) has a max open voltage is 150V. I get about 8.7-9 amps at 65 volts which translates to measured 33-35 amps at 12 volts to my battery. I get about 10 more amps then my small 5000 BTU AC unit draws which is about 25 amps. During the daytime panels should be able to run it I plan on setting it the temp high around 90F. I only want to maintain the shed to a temp doesn't cause plastic to dry out.
thank you for the review ! i have one renogy 175 watts solar panel so i need the 75/15 , where can i find the how manny watts the LOAD will output ? i wanna charge my anker powerhouse 757 with the LOAD connection ? ( i have a second battery in the back of my van for the BATT connection ) i have a max input solar connection with 300 watt solar 11/30V 10amp ( i wanna use this device because of the Streetlight function ) anker powerhouse will go in tilt mode when it gets dark shut down everything i have connected to the DC output , so my fridge will turned of in the evening and all my food is ruined !! thank you for tha advice ! mark
I liked your video and ordered a Victron solar controller after watching it. I would like to add that people should know that there are two types. Yours above, and mine which is also an MPPT 75/15. The huge difference is that yours has a small bluetooth symbol after the model number. I never noticed that and now have one with no bluetooth which cost the same money as one with. I should have just kept my £10 ebay one as I have no bluetooth.
They have different names; the Bluetooth models are labeled "SmartSolar" and the non-Bluetooth models are labeled "BlueSolar". The numbering is the same, but the prefix changes. It's extra confusing because you'd think the one with "BLUE" in the name is BT....but it's not.
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits. I wish you could help me with that part. I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion. Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone. To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel. But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive. I don't want to spend so much just because of induction. I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site. In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two? Well, the result of the spreadsheet was: 220V equipment notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah 12V equipment USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment. I appreciate if you answer. my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com Thanks
Sorry, but I'm not going to be able to answer your question fully. A few things. Your induction cooker will not be consuming 1800watts throughout the entire cooking time, so consumption is likely a lot less. The best thing to do is to buy the cook top and test to see what it uses. Everything else you are thinking about is similar to my travel trailer setup where I have 200 watts of solar on the roof and 200 watts that I can position on the ground. I then have a 170Ah lithium battery. In the summer this setup works perfectly, but in the winter it can be a struggle to keep charged (mainly due to my 12V fridge which is likely larger than the one you are thinking). Unfortunately solar panels, batteries and an inverter for your stove can be expensive, but living off the sun is very fulfilling. Best of luck.
hi i have a 300 watt solar panel and 2 x 100AH batteries the panel came with a cheap pwm controller i am wanting to put in an Mppt controller what size would i need and are Victron good controllers would you recommend them thanks
i was confused on the figures on the controller also.I have a Victron100/30 MPPT but when i read the manual those numbers are max figures.When i bought the controller I thought it was the starting volts and amps duhhhh
15A is actually the maximum the charge controller can put out. And yes these will survive over voltage on the panel inputs. I fed a 100/20 130V of panels and it just stopped working until I put the panels in parallel, not series. Did not phase it at all.
If a panel says 18V - then in very cold conditions it can go to 24V - so watch for that. The Input voltage is more important (it switches off the unit) than the output current (which just current limits).
Hi Joshua, great explanation I have a victron 100/50 and 2 x350w solar panels, but only 1 on my caravan roof so far, the max watts it has gone to is only 190watts which I thought it would have been more, so I am going to put the second panel up. My question to you is over 5 meters what size cable I need to join and run the cable to the controller from the panels, as the controller might not fit the diameter of the cable that is needed for the 500watts all though it handles 500 watts? thanks Wes.
The current is the limiting factor when comes to wire size. Find a current rating by wire size chart online. If you wire the panels in parallel meaning + to + - to - then the current will double what both panels are putting out the voltage stays the same. If you wire in series then the voltage will add up between the panels the current stays the same. If you wire the two in series make sure the voltage max doesn't exceed the controller max input. You can find more about wiring in series and parallel pros and cons online. Example 10 gauge wire has limit of 30 amps for distance wiring.
Hola mi amigo quiero reemplazar el panel solar por una fuente de 12VDC 20A, ya que quiero utilizar este controlador en un circuito electrico que lleva bateria de respaldo. habra algun problema?
hello .... I bought such a controller 75 15 victron can you help me with some info? .... about how many solar panels support 100Wp and about how many batteries you can charge with this mppt I mean I would be interested maximum input from pv maximum output depending on storage ....... can it be coupled with an mppt of the same kind? I ask because I want to develop over time with this kind of installation .... thank you
The WATTS isn't really a limit. You can oversize a PV array and the controller will just chop off the excess during the short period of the day when the array goes over the max charging current.
Hi. I got a question. Iv just got a 200w 36v panel Can I use the 75/10? If I'm understanding correctly, if the panel is hooked up to a bigger controller it could potentially make more than 15amps. I only need 8 amps. Thanx.
Yes, that should work fine (I have this exact charger connected to 200W of solar). You are near the limit if you are charging a 12V battery, but the controller will handle that fine, you just can't add any more panels.
@@joshseal2000 Thanx. I will not be adding any more panels. The setup will be on the roof of my weekend 4x4. The panel will only be charging my auxiliary battery and running a small 12v fridge.
What would you connect to the 'Load' terminals ? The manual shows it can be used to switch on inverters and the diagram ends with DC Load and no idea what it means... Great video.
You can connect your DC loads mainly applicable for RV's or boats. i.e fridge, lights pumps etc. up to 15amps. You can then monitor in the Connect app your consumption V's input yield and use the low battery cut off if required.
You could also use it to run a relay between your battery and inverter. So if you leave the inverter on and the voltage drops the solar converter cuts the load output and in turn would cut out your inverter. They do sell a product to do this but a DIY relay is cheaper
@@Toms_Short_Movies As a note, if using a relay on a charge controller, it's a good idea to run a diode in parallel with the switching voltage from the controller - I use a 1N4007 in my experiments, but there's probably better/specific ones that can deal with the thousand or more volts that'll pop from the field collapse on the coil.
I’m running a submersible pump non stop drawing a maximum of 3 amps constantly on the load side of the controller, I have 2 x 60 w panels so 120w input and a 90 ah 12 volt battery. For some reason I keep blowing the 20 amp fuses (have tried 25 amp fuse ) not sure what could be causing it ?
I will install 3x215W in series. Each at 24V / 6A. I have ordered a charge controller from Victron at 150/35. Will this be enough or should I buy a charge controller with a higher output, and the question that follows is: If I increase the MAX output of the controller to 60, will it charge at 60 and if not, why? What makes it NOT reach 70 in output?
75 is the max voltage the FETs will take, so this needs to match the OPEN-CIRCUIT voltage of the solar panels. The panels could be off load if the batteries are fully charges so they will not be pulled down by the load. The unit has a 15A car type output fuse so will not produce more than that. Since neither figure on the box has units given , I don't know why anyone would conclude it means 15A at 75V. That's just making shit up.
Good Video Josh Like most ive plugged stuff together not understanding the Maths and appears i have also been doing it wrong I have 4x 120W Panels going into a Victron 100/20 Controller. So if your saying it will only allow a throughput of 240W (12v x 20Amps) . I then have 2 Panels Rendered Useless as i thought it may be generating 480W My older Victron is a 75/10 with 4x 100W Panels Therefore producing a throughout of just 120W (12v x 10Amps) Rendering 3 Panels Useless Its all working but not so efficient Please correct me if im wrong
The Victron will limit the peak output, but because most solar panels don't output their maximum rated power all the time (especially in winter, or when not angled correctly, or in the morning / evening). So, at mid-day on a perfect summer day you are likely missing out, but the rest of the time you might find you don't always hit the peak output of the Victron. That all said, just do some trial and error and take a look at the power output via the Victron app and see what is happening in various conditions. Then you can decide if you need a controller with a larger peak power.
@@joshseal2000 thankyou Joshua. The Victron is good, sturdy and reliable equip. Having nothing to test it against I'm not sure I'm getting the best out of it so need to rethink and do an overhaul. I think though whether it be solar or Wind Turbine you sometimes need to really throw some money at it to get the best out of it . I have a diesel heater so initially it uses 10amp to start up and then drops down to 2-3amps when running. My Solar doesn't like it/won't power it so looking at getting a bigger controller
@@joshseal2000 We have two strings each with their own controller. Is it normal that the max output of the two is the max output of what one can do? In other words, say the max of the 75/15 is 300W. Then if you have two of them each tied to their own 300W string, instead of the two combined produce 600W, they still produce 300W total because the upper limited of the 75/15 is 300W. This means that when you examine each 75/15, you will see it only produces max of 150W. Can this be fixed?
No battery is charged at 12v. so 12x15 is not accurate. Looking at the datasheet / specs of the charge controllers from Victron the 15A is meant with a voltage of 14.6v.
The max output current is 15 Amps, so if you have a 12V battery, then you'll be getting 12 x 15 = 180 watts max into the battery. You'll want a larger charge controller for your setup.
You can actually setup your solar panels to go way over the amperage just not the voltage I set up 3000 what's worth a solar panels to a 150/35 on a 12-volt system charge controller did not do anything it just limited the amps going into the battery to 35 amps
At 18v the 250w panel is creating 13.8 amps which is fine. However, if you are charging a 12V battery you might get up to 20amps which exceeds the 15amp rating of this controller. That said, I know Victron does allow for some over protection because they acknowledge that most solar panels will rarely output their max power. I'd double check on Victrons website (they have a tool to answer this question) or just get the 100 | 20 controller and you'll be fully covered.
PV's rarely get to their full capacity - and excess amps would simply be trimmed - so it would be fine. A PWM based controller would do a very similar job as your PV voltage is not that high, and be much cheaper. If money is not too important - then an MPPT Controller with a higher current rating just makes more sense. Get one where you can add a second PV in series - for when you need more energy. "In Series" will allow the system to start charging earlier in the day to later in the day.
@@joshseal2000 The most important is not exceed the maximum input voltage, the amp rating is only a problem if you were to short the output of the controller. So you could put 400w solar array but the maximum the controller can output is 15A
According to Victron the nominal PV power for the 100/20 is 290w so you should be able to use those panels www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-75-10,-75-15,-100-15,-100-20_48V-EN.pdf
Hey dear I am facing power dropping issue in series connection. I have connected 340watt and 380watt solar panels in series to epever 40A mppt controller with 12v battery. It show power of one panel when I disconnect solar connector and reconnect, the mppt show both Panels. It’s hard to do this every morning. It was fine in winter but now summer starting and facing this issue. Using both panels form 2 months. after wire disconnect and reconnect the voltage jump from 33-36 to 75v. If something wrong with one solar panel then it should not work after replugging mc4 or solar wire in the mppt after that It work whole day but same issue next morning Both panels volts amps are little different. Tesla 34.51v maxpower 33.18v. Tesla amps 11.01amps maxpower 10.29amps.
Hum, I've never experienced that issue so I'm not sure about the best steps. If it didn't happen during winter, and it does happen during the summer it could be something about your peak power. Regardless, I would recommend updating the firmware on the controller though, as I've had issues in the past when it's out of date. Good luck.
@@joshseal2000 all right epever said that you have exceed the mppt rating power it’s 40A 520watt for 12v battery and I have connected 340+380watt in series. That can be an issue. I have tested both panels separately for 2 days both worked fine. Last test is to check parallel connection. Otherwise I have to sell 380 and to buy 340 to match the panels. Or install breaker between pv and mppt to ON OFF it daily to get power from both panels
good morning god bless you i have Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 Solar Charge Controller w/ Bluetooth with 1 CHINS LiFePO4 Battery 12V 100AH Lithium Battery how to set up solar panel i need. , i need help
Because you have a 12V battery and your charge controller has a max output current of 10 amps, then you can charge with a max power of 12 x 10 = 120 Watts. Depending on time of year, panel efficiency, placement etc, you likely only need a single 100 watt solar panel, but you could likely go with a 150watt or 2x100watt panels for a total of 200 watts. Depending on how quickly you plan on using power, you might need to consider a larger controller. But start with a single 100 watt solar panel, connect it to the controller, and also connect your battery to the controller, and see how things go. Then you can choose to upgrade different parts of the system as you learn from how well the system performs. Knowing your batteries charge level is super useful as well, so adding something like this to your setup can be really useful : a.co/d/4rkJHkh
You did not talk about the fact that solar panels are generally tested at a standard 25deg c . In blue sky the stated watsge will drop at temperatures above this but on a cold winter day at lower temperatures it will BE MORE THAN the quoted watage so it is cold clear days you have to alow for re max wattage volts and amps
I built a system for my shed starting out just to run a couple of LED strip lights. What I found was the solar panel even in direct sun didn't put out rated power it was about 80% max. Like most things manufacturer overrated their panels. My controller was 20 amp controller which means about 220 wtts I hooked up 300 watt rated panels I get the max 220 out of them. I love solar never built one before my neighbor who thought I'm a liberal bought a big open frame generator as a power back up. I'm thinking about upgrading shed to 2000 watt system I can use as battery backup. We sometimes have power outages could be used to keep a refrigerator going, or even a small AC unit in the shed to keep our stuff cool. His open frame generator is so loud like someone leaving a lawn mower running all day. He is so cheap guy is retired has millions packed away I told him to buy a nice honda inverter generator he goes to HF buys cheap loud construction generator then he complains about everyone buying from China, and using illegal labor.
no that's not right at all. the 75 is the max volts the controller can handle input from the panels. your panel has a voc rating that means volts open circuit. mine has a voc of 28.1v. if i put 3 panels in a series then it is 3*28.1=84.3v. so only use 2 panels. the 15 is what the controller puts out in amps to the battery. so 75v in 15 amps out
I'm not sure I understand how my advice is incorrect. Can you help by answering "If you are charging a 12V battery, what is the max wattage of solar you can utilize with this charge controller"
For the same price as that or less you can get a good normal grid connect inverter that also charges batteries. Victron is good but with severe limitations and if you want to overcome them you have to pay big dollars and that's not really worth it
Screw grid connections..When the grid goes down or you have a power outage you can't use your solar panels with a grid tied system unless you know how to rewire it..
Still unclear as you reversed the explanation of the numbers in your narration. 75 is max panel voltag.. and it doe not matter how much watt those panels are able to crank out. The pannel voltage has to do with a number of cells at a pannel. This is important for good operation. 15 is max amperage what the unit can hand off to the battery.. it’s a 15 amp charger. The load port is for usage of a system, it has it’s own fuse , not more than 15 amp. No need to speak in watt for a battery charge as it does not matter. The state of the battery determines how many watt is used.
75 is the maximum voltage input from the solar panels, 15 is the maximum number of amps the controller will output to the battery. Theoretically you can input as much solar in watts as you like as long as the voltage is under 75, but the controller will 'clip' the output to 15amps. Victron state you can oversize the pv array by 130% for warranty purposes.
Brilliant! Simple explanation of something I couldn't understand! Thanks my man. Great little video
Same here it clicked in my head after I built my first setup. So I changed to a 24v system to get more. It seems I am allway learning somthing new with solar.
I am just now converting over to Victron One of the things I love With the charge controllers it’s extremely easy to string four of them together, so you could start off small and build up as you’re able to.
Thanks. Wasn't obvious to me either. Very helpful
Simple and on the farmers language explained.... Thx bro
No worries. I have no idea why companies make all this sound so complicated for people!
it will deliver max 15 amp to the max voltage of the battery, (so 12v battery @14 volt it will deliver 210watts)
i use a 300wp panel on this controller and it will just limit the in/output @ max 220 watts, so no problem there
So, if Ihave 2 x 200 Watt foldable panels that at Max on a lucky day could output 320Watt could use this controller anyway?
@@Xircom10 yes no problem, the controller will limit its output to max 15A output to the battery
@@williamos1985 Brilliant, since it looks like they say in the documentation that it cant handle Watts Above 220Watt (14,6V*15amp = 220Watt)
You can have a maximum of 220W of solar with a 12V system on that controller if you look at the specs for it. The maximum Voc of the panels must not exceed 75V. The 15 is the max charge current that the controller can deliver.
Is the max current based on the panel output or the max current charging capacity? 75 volts x 15 amps = 1125 watts. If it's the max current charging 12V x 15 amps = 180 Watts 24V x 15 amps = 360 Watts. I read that suggested not to use the load connections for any higher current load inverters connect directly through a fused wire to the battery bank. I'm assuming 15 amp limit if it's for the load that can be bypassed by not using it.
@@Mike-01234 75 = max PV array voltage to the controller. 15 = max output amps to your batteries.
You can wire 2+ panels in series without them creating a 12/24/36/48v system. You want the output voltage of the panels to overcome the voltage of your batteries.
The controller then converts the 75v max from the panels to a maximum of 15a charge to your batteries, whether it’s a 12/24v battery system in this controller's capability.
@@cmprvn I had to upgrade my controller to a 60-amp controller (Epever 60A) has a max open voltage is 150V. I get about 8.7-9 amps at 65 volts which translates to measured 33-35 amps at 12 volts to my battery. I get about 10 more amps then my small 5000 BTU AC unit draws which is about 25 amps. During the daytime panels should be able to run it I plan on setting it the temp high around 90F. I only want to maintain the shed to a temp doesn't cause plastic to dry out.
@@Mike-01234 wire 2 panel pairs in series, then combine them into parallel then to the controller. You'll be at about 40v and 10a.
thank you for the review ! i have one renogy 175 watts solar panel so i need the 75/15 , where can i find the how manny watts the LOAD will output ? i wanna charge my anker powerhouse 757 with the LOAD connection ? ( i have a second battery in the back of my van for the BATT connection ) i have a max input solar connection with 300 watt solar 11/30V 10amp ( i wanna use this device because of the Streetlight function ) anker powerhouse will go in tilt mode when it gets dark shut down everything i have connected to the DC output , so my fridge will turned of in the evening and all my food is ruined !! thank you for tha advice ! mark
I liked your video and ordered a Victron solar controller after watching it. I would like to add that people should know that there are two types. Yours above, and mine which is also an MPPT 75/15. The huge difference is that yours has a small bluetooth symbol after the model number. I never noticed that and now have one with no bluetooth which cost the same money as one with.
I should have just kept my £10 ebay one as I have no bluetooth.
They have different names; the Bluetooth models are labeled "SmartSolar" and the non-Bluetooth models are labeled "BlueSolar". The numbering is the same, but the prefix changes. It's extra confusing because you'd think the one with "BLUE" in the name is BT....but it's not.
I am new to this, what wire gauge would I need to connect this to a 24v battery,,, any help appreciated
@@zodaguado6655 With this controller, 10AWG would be fine (good for up to 30 amps, above which you're probably better off w/ 8AWG)
Do they have a way to buy a second unit and parallel connect them together to have higher output?
Is it true you need to adjust float to zero on settings for lithium batteries,and you don't need the dongle.
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park ... etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion.
Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone.
To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel.
But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive.
I don't want to spend so much just because of induction.
I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site.
In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
220V equipment
notebook - 65w - 1 hour of use - 5.4 Ah
induction cooker - 1800w - 0,4 hour of use - 60 Ah
12V equipment
USB - 50w - 1 hour of use - 4.2 Ah
refrigerator - 45w - 8 hours of use - 30 Ah
lights - 15w - 3 hours of use - 1.3 Ah
water pump - 42 w - 0.5 hours of use - 1.8 Ah
exhaust fan wc - 40 w - 1 hour of use - 3.3 Ah
I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I appreciate if you answer.
my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com
Thanks
Sorry, but I'm not going to be able to answer your question fully. A few things. Your induction cooker will not be consuming 1800watts throughout the entire cooking time, so consumption is likely a lot less. The best thing to do is to buy the cook top and test to see what it uses. Everything else you are thinking about is similar to my travel trailer setup where I have 200 watts of solar on the roof and 200 watts that I can position on the ground. I then have a 170Ah lithium battery. In the summer this setup works perfectly, but in the winter it can be a struggle to keep charged (mainly due to my 12V fridge which is likely larger than the one you are thinking). Unfortunately solar panels, batteries and an inverter for your stove can be expensive, but living off the sun is very fulfilling. Best of luck.
hi i have a 300 watt solar panel and 2 x 100AH batteries the panel came with a cheap pwm controller i am wanting to put in an Mppt controller what size would i need and are Victron good controllers would you recommend them thanks
i was confused on the figures on the controller also.I have a Victron100/30 MPPT but when i read the manual those numbers are max figures.When i bought the controller I thought it was the starting volts and amps duhhhh
Can you use it for wind turbine too?
75V is the max input voltage from your solar array. 15A is the maximum output current from your Inverter
15A is actually the maximum the charge controller can put out. And yes these will survive over voltage on the panel inputs. I fed a 100/20 130V of panels and it just stopped working until I put the panels in parallel, not series. Did not phase it at all.
If a panel says 18V - then in very cold conditions it can go to 24V - so watch for that. The Input voltage is more important (it switches off the unit) than the output current (which just current limits).
Hi Joshua, great explanation I have a victron 100/50 and 2 x350w solar panels, but only 1 on my caravan roof so far, the max watts it has gone to is only 190watts which I thought it would have been more, so I am going to put the second panel up. My question to you is over 5 meters what size cable I need to join and run the cable to the controller from the panels, as the controller might not fit the diameter of the cable that is needed for the 500watts all though it handles 500 watts? thanks Wes.
The current is the limiting factor when comes to wire size. Find a current rating by wire size chart online. If you wire the panels in parallel meaning + to + - to - then the current will double what both panels are putting out the voltage stays the same. If you wire in series then the voltage will add up between the panels the current stays the same. If you wire the two in series make sure the voltage max doesn't exceed the controller max input. You can find more about wiring in series and parallel pros and cons online. Example 10 gauge wire has limit of 30 amps for distance wiring.
Try to keep wires below 10m length. If using mc4 connectors one can use 4sqmm wire
What is the little black connector at the bottom on the left that’s plugged into the middle two connections
It is used to configure the 'load' output settings.
Hola mi amigo quiero reemplazar el panel solar por una fuente de 12VDC 20A, ya que quiero utilizar este controlador en un circuito electrico que lleva bateria de respaldo. habra algun problema?
20 amps is too high. The max amps is 15 on this model. Either increase voltage to lower your current. Or get a larger controller
helped
hello .... I bought such a controller 75 15 victron can you help me with some info? .... about how many solar panels support 100Wp and about how many batteries you can charge with this mppt I mean I would be interested maximum input from pv maximum output depending on storage ....... can it be coupled with an mppt of the same kind? I ask because I want to develop over time with this kind of installation .... thank you
The biggest problem is the third number WATTS the maximum PV watts should be on the controller as well so all 3 limits must be met.
The WATTS isn't really a limit. You can oversize a PV array and the controller will just chop off the excess during the short period of the day when the array goes over the max charging current.
Also, the max wattage depends on the battery voltage, 12, 24, 36 or 48 volts. Maximum 100 amp output, multiplied by the bank voltage.
@@pinkiepie1656 You are correct the victron charge controller can be over paneled but don't try that with most charge controllers.
Hi. I got a question.
Iv just got a 200w 36v panel
Can I use the 75/10?
If I'm understanding correctly, if the panel is hooked up to a bigger controller it could potentially make more than 15amps. I only need 8 amps.
Thanx.
Yes, that should work fine (I have this exact charger connected to 200W of solar). You are near the limit if you are charging a 12V battery, but the controller will handle that fine, you just can't add any more panels.
@@joshseal2000 Thanx. I will not be adding any more panels. The setup will be on the roof of my weekend 4x4. The panel will only be charging my auxiliary battery and running a small 12v fridge.
What would you connect to the 'Load' terminals ? The manual shows it can be used to switch on inverters and the diagram ends with DC Load and no idea what it means... Great video.
You can connect your DC loads mainly applicable for RV's or boats. i.e fridge, lights pumps etc. up to 15amps. You can then monitor in the Connect app your consumption V's input yield and use the low battery cut off if required.
You could also use it to run a relay between your battery and inverter. So if you leave the inverter on and the voltage drops the solar converter cuts the load output and in turn would cut out your inverter. They do sell a product to do this but a DIY relay is cheaper
You can also use it to automagically switch on lights at sunset and then off after a preset number of hours.
@@Toms_Short_Movies As a note, if using a relay on a charge controller, it's a good idea to run a diode in parallel with the switching voltage from the controller - I use a 1N4007 in my experiments, but there's probably better/specific ones that can deal with the thousand or more volts that'll pop from the field collapse on the coil.
I’m running a submersible pump non stop drawing a maximum of 3 amps constantly on the load side of the controller, I have 2 x 60 w panels so 120w input and a 90 ah 12 volt battery. For some reason I keep blowing the 20 amp fuses (have tried 25 amp fuse ) not sure what could be causing it ?
I've never blown a fuse, so not sure what's going on.
I will install 3x215W in series. Each at 24V / 6A. I have ordered a charge controller from Victron at 150/35. Will this be enough or should I buy a charge controller with a higher output, and the question that follows is: If I increase the MAX output of the controller to 60, will it charge at 60 and if not, why? What makes it NOT reach 70 in output?
You can't exceed input or output current, so that depends on your battery voltage, as well as your solar.
75 is the max voltage the FETs will take, so this needs to match the OPEN-CIRCUIT voltage of the solar panels. The panels could be off load if the batteries are fully charges so they will not be pulled down by the load. The unit has a 15A car type output fuse so will not produce more than that. Since neither figure on the box has units given , I don't know why anyone would conclude it means 15A at 75V. That's just making shit up.
Good Video Josh
Like most ive plugged stuff together not understanding the Maths and appears i have also been doing it wrong
I have 4x 120W Panels going into a Victron 100/20 Controller.
So if your saying it will only allow a throughput of 240W (12v x 20Amps) .
I then have 2 Panels Rendered Useless as i thought it may be generating 480W
My older Victron is a 75/10 with 4x 100W Panels
Therefore producing a throughout of just 120W (12v x 10Amps)
Rendering 3 Panels Useless
Its all working but not so efficient
Please correct me if im wrong
The Victron will limit the peak output, but because most solar panels don't output their maximum rated power all the time (especially in winter, or when not angled correctly, or in the morning / evening). So, at mid-day on a perfect summer day you are likely missing out, but the rest of the time you might find you don't always hit the peak output of the Victron. That all said, just do some trial and error and take a look at the power output via the Victron app and see what is happening in various conditions. Then you can decide if you need a controller with a larger peak power.
@@joshseal2000 thankyou Joshua. The Victron is good, sturdy and reliable equip. Having nothing to test it against I'm not sure I'm getting the best out of it so need to rethink and do an overhaul.
I think though whether it be solar or Wind Turbine you sometimes need to really throw some money at it to get the best out of it .
I have a diesel heater so initially it uses 10amp to start up and then drops down to 2-3amps when running.
My Solar doesn't like it/won't power it so looking at getting a bigger controller
@@joshseal2000 We have two strings each with their own controller. Is it normal that the max output of the two is the max output of what one can do? In other words, say the max of the 75/15 is 300W. Then if you have two of them each tied to their own 300W string, instead of the two combined produce 600W, they still produce 300W total because the upper limited of the 75/15 is 300W. This means that when you examine each 75/15, you will see it only produces max of 150W. Can this be fixed?
Can you use a 200w solar panel with the 15 amp charger thanks
Read the other comments for useful details, but yes, that should work
No battery is charged at 12v. so 12x15 is not accurate. Looking at the datasheet / specs of the charge controllers from Victron the 15A is meant with a voltage of 14.6v.
I have two 24 volts 320 pannel in series it's ,37 volts by two 74 volts 9 amp 620 wats into 12 volt battery am I only getting 100 wats to my battery
The max output current is 15 Amps, so if you have a 12V battery, then you'll be getting 12 x 15 = 180 watts max into the battery. You'll want a larger charge controller for your setup.
After watching this I am still none the wiser.
You can actually setup your solar panels to go way over the amperage just not the voltage I set up 3000 what's worth a solar panels to a 150/35 on a 12-volt system charge controller did not do anything it just limited the amps going into the battery to 35 amps
So my 18v 250w solar panel will go alright with this controller?
At 18v the 250w panel is creating 13.8 amps which is fine. However, if you are charging a 12V battery you might get up to 20amps which exceeds the 15amp rating of this controller. That said, I know Victron does allow for some over protection because they acknowledge that most solar panels will rarely output their max power. I'd double check on Victrons website (they have a tool to answer this question) or just get the 100 | 20 controller and you'll be fully covered.
@@joshseal2000 thanks mate, since writing did some googling and a 100 /20 is going to better suit my panel 👌.
@@joshseal2000 I recall reading that if the array supplies more than the controller can handle it just trims the current down to max rating.
PV's rarely get to their full capacity - and excess amps would simply be trimmed - so it would be fine. A PWM based controller would do a very similar job as your PV voltage is not that high, and be much cheaper. If money is not too important - then an MPPT Controller with a higher current rating just makes more sense. Get one where you can add a second PV in series - for when you need more energy. "In Series" will allow the system to start charging earlier in the day to later in the day.
@@joshseal2000 The most important is not exceed the maximum input voltage, the amp rating is only a problem if you were to short the output of the controller. So you could put 400w solar array but the maximum the controller can output is 15A
I've got a 12v system can I run 1 160watt and a 130watt panel with my 100 20a victron controller
According to Victron the nominal PV power for the 100/20 is 290w so you should be able to use those panels www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-75-10,-75-15,-100-15,-100-20_48V-EN.pdf
The mentioned formula in this video is just a rule of thumb. As he said some charge controllers let you use a bit more watts and Victron allows that
Thanks mate
Hey dear I am facing power dropping issue in series connection. I have connected 340watt and 380watt solar panels in series to epever 40A mppt controller with 12v battery. It show power of one panel when I disconnect solar connector and reconnect, the mppt show both Panels. It’s hard to do this every morning. It was fine in winter but now summer starting and facing this issue. Using both panels form 2 months. after wire disconnect and reconnect the voltage jump from 33-36 to 75v. If something wrong with one solar panel then it should not work after replugging mc4 or solar wire in the mppt after that It work whole day but same issue next morning Both panels volts amps are little different. Tesla 34.51v maxpower 33.18v. Tesla amps 11.01amps maxpower 10.29amps.
Hum, I've never experienced that issue so I'm not sure about the best steps. If it didn't happen during winter, and it does happen during the summer it could be something about your peak power. Regardless, I would recommend updating the firmware on the controller though, as I've had issues in the past when it's out of date. Good luck.
@@joshseal2000 all right epever said that you have exceed the mppt rating power it’s 40A 520watt for 12v battery and I have connected 340+380watt in series. That can be an issue. I have tested both panels separately for 2 days both worked fine. Last test is to check parallel connection. Otherwise I have to sell 380 and to buy 340 to match the panels. Or install breaker between pv and mppt to ON OFF it daily to get power from both panels
Far as I know,panels have to be equal in wattage or it will only give you the lowest one. But that might be the way it's hooked up.
It’s a shame they don’t make it easy to understand because they would sell more
good morning god bless you i have Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 Solar Charge Controller w/ Bluetooth with 1 CHINS LiFePO4 Battery 12V 100AH Lithium Battery how to set up solar panel i need.
, i need help
Because you have a 12V battery and your charge controller has a max output current of 10 amps, then you can charge with a max power of 12 x 10 = 120 Watts. Depending on time of year, panel efficiency, placement etc, you likely only need a single 100 watt solar panel, but you could likely go with a 150watt or 2x100watt panels for a total of 200 watts. Depending on how quickly you plan on using power, you might need to consider a larger controller.
But start with a single 100 watt solar panel, connect it to the controller, and also connect your battery to the controller, and see how things go. Then you can choose to upgrade different parts of the system as you learn from how well the system performs.
Knowing your batteries charge level is super useful as well, so adding something like this to your setup can be really useful : a.co/d/4rkJHkh
You did not talk about the fact that solar panels are generally tested at a standard 25deg c . In blue sky the stated watsge will drop at temperatures above this but on a cold winter day at lower temperatures it will BE MORE THAN the quoted watage so it is cold clear days you have to alow for re max wattage volts and amps
Lease see Explorists life video explaining this
I built a system for my shed starting out just to run a couple of LED strip lights. What I found was the solar panel even in direct sun didn't put out rated power it was about 80% max. Like most things manufacturer overrated their panels. My controller was 20 amp controller which means about 220 wtts I hooked up 300 watt rated panels I get the max 220 out of them. I love solar never built one before my neighbor who thought I'm a liberal bought a big open frame generator as a power back up. I'm thinking about upgrading shed to 2000 watt system I can use as battery backup. We sometimes have power outages could be used to keep a refrigerator going, or even a small AC unit in the shed to keep our stuff cool. His open frame generator is so loud like someone leaving a lawn mower running all day. He is so cheap guy is retired has millions packed away I told him to buy a nice honda inverter generator he goes to HF buys cheap loud construction generator then he complains about everyone buying from China, and using illegal labor.
no that's not right at all. the 75 is the max volts the controller can handle input from the panels. your panel has a voc rating that means volts open circuit. mine has a voc of 28.1v. if i put 3 panels in a series then it is 3*28.1=84.3v. so only use 2 panels. the 15 is what the controller puts out in amps to the battery. so 75v in 15 amps out
I'm not sure I understand how my advice is incorrect. Can you help by answering "If you are charging a 12V battery, what is the max wattage of solar you can utilize with this charge controller"
For the same price as that or less you can get a good normal grid connect inverter that also charges batteries. Victron is good but with severe limitations and if you want to overcome them you have to pay big dollars and that's not really worth it
Screw grid connections..When the grid goes down or you have a power outage you can't use your solar panels with a grid tied system unless you know how to rewire it..
That's cheating. They should have added info as 15amp max output .I was about to buy it. Thanks for info
Still unclear as you reversed the explanation of the numbers in your narration.
75 is max panel voltag.. and it doe not matter how much watt those panels are able to crank out.
The pannel voltage has to do with a number of cells at a pannel. This is important for good operation.
15 is max amperage what the unit can hand off to the battery.. it’s a 15 amp charger.
The load port is for usage of a system, it has it’s own fuse , not more than 15 amp.
No need to speak in watt for a battery charge as it does not matter. The state of the battery determines how many watt is used.
Overpriced unit