Reading OBD2 Live Data Part 2
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Trying out a new OBD2 meter and wanted to show some live data meanings and how it can be helpful when troubleshooting.
Here is a link to the other videos in this series.
Part 1 : • Reading OBD2 Live Data
Part 2 : • Reading OBD2 Live Data...
Part 3 : • Reading OBD2 Live Data...
Part 4 : • Reading OBD2 Live Data...
I am not a professional mechanic and this is for entertainment purposes only.
Can you tell us what each one should be at? You mentioned some of them, but it would've been nice to hear what the green zone is if you will for each reading. Like MAF what is a good number? Even if it's car specific and you can only give us the "good number " on your type of car that'd still be super helpful. Especially to the ones who have that car. I know I'd appreciate it!! Who else would like to know the optimal range for these readings!?
this is what i needed, i bought a scanner for my truck and found it didn't help as I couldn't read it. i used to work on cars 25 years ago and am now looking for a side hustle and nothing is the same. thanks man
Thanks! Glad it helped. I agree, things sure have changed over the years. I was wondering if we will get to the point someday that the pcm will just tell you what component is bad or out of range by analyzing all the data together. Instead of spitting out a DTC it will just tell you your b1s1 02 sensor is bad. But at least for now we can see this data and they dont hide it as proprietary or something.
An Actron CP9690 has code connect to diagnose codes. Special tests checks misfires.
I've been driving and working on OBD 1 cars for years. I just grudgingly upgraded to an OBD2 car and this material is both daunting and fascinating!
Thanks for explaining obd2 lingo more clearly. I have 2 cars and put a code?reader in each car. I even put one in my mom's car. I bought a friend one so she car car shop more comfortably without being taken advantage of. She loved it. Thanks again.
Really appreciate these videos! I've been contending with a P0300 code that keeps recurring several days after a repair is done that makes it go away. So I thought I'd familiarize myself with the Live Data feature on my basic, economical scanner, (with the help of UA-cam University) and run some experiments before running back to the shop.(Fortunately I just passed my Smog, so there's no big hurry.
Yours was the first video that popped up in my search, and I'm feeling much better now! Thanks again.
Thanks for the nice comment!
You're welcome!
So, although it varies by manufacturer, I believe 3.3 volts is usually stochiometric on most Air/Fuel (aka wideband) sensors so that voltage on the THINKOBD appears to show a good AF sensor
Hey your quick explanation went a long way for me I appreciate your knowledge spreading to all of us
I have the same scanner. You have to change it to metric if you want grams for the maf. It offers English and Metric.
Thanks for the tip!
Great video, I think a great addition would be a spread sheet or ladder graph showing ,let's say when you have short term fuel trim,what the general parameters are on paper, if the number is say higher then + 10 percent you follow the chart to possibly issues to check , if it's maybe -10 percent , then you can look on your sheet on the other side of the ladder ,which may say look for vacumn leaks , or it may say if that didn't help look for bad injector possibly . I would think most items would have general parameters that is pretty normal and anything outside that you need to go to step 2 for a possible cause or issue .
Good idea on a flow chart or spreadsheet, I agree that would be great, I have tried to find something organized like that before and wonder if any mechanic schools might have something like that in a book. But online i didn't find much at least in an organized fashion for everything. Maybe i will post my notes online, but not sure how complete they are. Would be better to have a live document that others could update also as they find things. Maybe a shared google sheets document or something....
Yes
Great job, I really appreciate what your doing. I did find out one thing about the MAF, in the setup just set it to metric to get grams/s.
Thanks for the nice comment and the tip on changing that in the settings! Have a great rest of the weekend!
Very detailed and to the point! Thanks !
Thanks! Super nice of you to leave the comments!
Thank you for you effort - very clear and informative
Thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to leave a nice comment!
Thank you. Very nicely explained.
Thanks! I super appreciate that!
You’re doing great man!!
Thanks! I really appreciate that! Have a great day!
Thank you for your time
Hi ONz , saw that your Catemp 11 and 12 is 452 and 426 . That means your cats may be damaged as bank inlet 1 and outlet 2 should have 100deg difference . Pls check and thank you for ur vids. Like you said we are here to share and learn from each other Am shy but inspired by you, I went on deep research and compiled a spreadsheet too . Lemme know if you want it .. I have put in some ideal ranges there . Cheers mate for helping us ! 🥂
Hi ASF, Thanks for the comment and sorry for the late response, I have been dealing with some family issues that have been taking up my time. I wonder if my engine wasn't warmed up yet as 452 seems a bit low. I will go back in the video and look and also check the car again. Thanks for letting me know! Also that's really interesting about the Cat temp and 100 degree difference. I did not know that and will check a few cars out. If i recall correctly the cat temp1 should be a bit warmer maybe? I will need to check it out and research that a bit. I would love to see your spreadsheet. That sounds really cool. What type of car did you base it off of? I have been wanting to do one myself and start putting different cars on it for comparison, but haven't had the time. I feel like i have more ideas than time lately. Hopefully that changes soon. My email is obdnerdz (at) gmail (dot) com, if you still want to share the spreadsheet. Or maybe you could post it online somehow for others to see as well? Would be great to have a database that everyone could go look at for ideal ranges for their specific vehicle or engine type. I might look into that and see how hard that would be to do. Thanks again for the nice comment and info!
Thanks for this video!
Thanks you heard us when we request you some more videos
Moshitoa (south Africa)
Thankyou very much..
Thank You
Hey hey, What would be the best way to test my 2018 gmc canyon v6 knock sensor ? I got veepak and car scanner app but what pid shouod i look for in it ?
Awesome video your the number on your oxygen sensor are the same as mine seen these values on other Toyotas apparently it's a Toyota specific thing I'm assuming all is fine with mine as well👍
nice one lad
Can you use that to check knock sensor please let me know
love the content. Only suggestion would be to use a decent OBD2 scanner instead of cheap Amazon disposables. Keep it up
Thanks! After the first video and some of the typos I was kinda thinking the same thing, but my OCD made me continue on with the same one. Have a great weekend!
Hi OBz, Wow, the VEEPEAK dongle (10:05 mins) and graphing is 'incredible'!. A Scanner with graphing ability can cost 'the earth and some', so please can you advise where you sourced the 'software' that drives the VEEPEAK dongle! Your 4-part series is pure 'GOLD'. Thank you so much.
Thanks! Sorry for the late reply. The software I used for the Veepeak was car scanner pro from the google play store. It has a free and paid version. I think it might be called Car Scanner ELM ODB2 now when i just looked, and maybe it says pro if you pay for the full version as when i open it I see it says Car Scanner Pro (But an update is available). It was 5 bucks if I recall for the upgraded version. Good luck and Thanks again for the nice comment!
They heat the wire with fixed energy, and measure the difference in temperature from incoming air, another reason the iat is important...
Thanks for the input! Have a great weekend!
Thank you man!
The last application not delete error codes on Mercedes 😢
Is iat or ect anything related to the ambiant air temperature sensor?? Ive been trying to trouble shoot 2010 ford mustang 4.0l and i just discovered that sensor and connector is completely gone.
very nice . Thank you
Thank you too!
Great info no bla bla
Why does my live data say -3 or so at idle for advanced timing cylinder 1 on my hyundai? car isnt running the best
I'm fortunate that you're posting these not long after I got my inexpensive scanner. I have a diesel Beetle, and I got a VAG scanner for around $35. It has some live data capability, but it's a Chinese scanner, so the instructions and documentation are rather sparse. I emailed the manufacturer, who linked me to a video, but it was basically a walk-through of the instructions read by a gentleman with questionable English skills. IOW, it wasn't terribly useful.
THIS IS. You're using devices similar to what I have. More importantly, while you may not be a mechanic, you are taking the time to walk through the settings and capabilities in a simple way that a trained mechanic might not be able to. I have a neat little device that does way more than read and reset codes, but I like the knowledge to use it at its full capabilities. Honestly, I expected more "how to" videos like this; maybe I'm not using the right search terms. But these are perfect for a noobie like me.
I am subscribing, and I look forward to more videos.
Thanks for taking the time to post and leaving such a nice comment! I really appreciate it! A diesel Beetle sounds like a fun car to own. I had a Golf for years (Gas) that I loved and have so many good memories with. I was actually thinking about getting another one (older used) as I want to get a little 5-speed car to teach the kids how to drive a stick. I have never owned a diesel vehicle before, but have always wanted one. Maybe this will be my chance :-). I just wish prices would drop a little.
Anyways, thanks again and also for the sub! I hope to keep making more videos (my goal is to try to do one ~every month). Hopefully i can improve on them with each one and also improve my editing skills.
At idle my fuel trims aren't at spec 14 bank 1 6 bank 2. Amy tips to help thought ran good in spec when drive but at idle not good. Over 10 no negative to compensate
Maybe check the o2 sensor on bank 1 and compare it to bank 2? Wonder if it could be a clogged injector in back 1. or any intake air leaks.
@@obdnerdz ok thanks ill look into that
What could cause the load to be high with nothing connected or turned on? My manual says 0-10% “CALC LOAD”
My scanner shows “LOAD_PCT” 20-29%. I hope I’m looking at the same thing.
I am trying to solve a rich fuel issue and ran into this, thought maybe it has to do with it.
LongFT is 14%.
Thinking about causes for your load being high I wonder if the A/C or Defroster is turned on, or maybe the power steering is causing a bigger load drag on the engine? Calc load value is usually based off of airflow and you also have the high long term fuel trim you mentioned.
For high LongFT the PCM thinks the system is lean and is adding more fuel..(Typing my thoughts as I try to think through it and may ramble a bit :-) ....)
Typically i think of things like air leaks ( intake, vacuum or exhaust). Maybe some air is sneaking into the combustion chamber between it and the MAF sensor, vacuum leaks can typically show higher LTFuel trim at idle but less at higher speed.
or the MAF sensor might not be reading the air correctly as its dirty or bad and telling the PCM the wrong amount of air is flowing than really is.
Not sure if you have a MAP sensor or IAC (idle Air Control sensor)?
If its lean due to the fuel system not supplying the correct amount of fuel. I think this would show up more when driving than at idle, but not always. But clogged injectors, low fuel pressure,plugged fuel filter that type of stuff comes to mind.
Then you have the o2 sensors that might also be giving erroneous readings.
Hard to diagnose from just those two items, but I would also check a forum online for your car/truck. You might be able to find people that had same symptoms/readings and what they replaced.
@@obdnerdz thanks! Nothing was on while monitoring the load, still not clear what’s causing it. On higher speeds the LTFfuel trim presents go down…
Took my car to a few mechanics who didn’t find vacum leaks but non of them checked really closely. They couldn’t diagnose the problem that’s why I have to fix it myself 🤷♀️
No one where I live knows how to even read the data on the obd2…
For checking air/vacum leaks I heard you can spray soapy water and see where bubbles come out right? Changed both air sensors too btw. Thanks again. I could send you all the data if your up for the challenge 😆
This is my question, will a 02 sensor make your car over heat because my car over heats and the scan tool says the 02 sensors is bad? Thanks for your videos great work
No it won't
Can I use the Car Scanner Pro with the BlueDriver Bluetooth module?
I dont think so. I think the Bluedriver uses it's own software like my xtool bluetooth does. But you can try the free version of car scanner if you already have the bluedriver. Or pick up a generic scanner like the veepeak. You can get the generic ones for under 15 bucks.
Thank you for responding.
I cannot comment on the technical information you provided as you are the presenter of the information and that is why I was watching your video.
I would say as Television Producer myself, you could improve, by first writing a script with the information you want to explain. Edit your script for brevity
and staying on point in the order you deem best. Then narrate your script into your editing device. Finally add your video to match your narration.
This will avoid creating videos that are 11 minutes long, avoiding redundant and lengthy sentences. You have a excellent grasp of video, your charts are clear and easy to follow, just lay the OBD2 on a table or neutral background and add your graphics. Have fun and good luck.
Thanks so much! That is some great advice and I appreciate you sharing your expertise. I was actually doing it backwards from what you mentioned, I was adding my audio last. Your way makes so much more sense. I will try using a script on my next video, and do the narration first as you mentioned. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. Thanks again for the tips!
Thanks again for the tip. While its far from perfect, i tried making a video with a script as you mentioned and created what I think is probably a better video that was much shorter without the fluff. I did find it takes me longer to do it this way, but liked the outcome. I still have a lot to learn on the scripting/editing side. ua-cam.com/video/Q_KJxx8Yhh0/v-deo.html
My idle rpm drops to around 500-600 rpm during cold start only when shifting to drive from park or neutral, from that drop, load % reaches 100% then STFT is at around -15. Do you have any idea what causes the rpm drop?
Faulty air idle, try taking it out and clean with carb clean spray.
Might save some $$.
Love the info but I came here to learn what the meant not a bunch of rambling about each code
My maf is zero , what could it b .
I'm not sure just how "nerdish" you are, but I wonder if you know what the "Bank2" short term trim reading would mean on a Ford duramax 2.0 L gas engine....only 4 cylinders, so what could bank 2 mean??
Amtifo scanner...I have an amtifo backup camera (the wireless monitor interferes with GPS, so I have to turn it off when not reversing, but it still screws up the vehicle tracking..)
hmm... I wonder if the exhaust is split someplace? Maybe two cylinders come to a spot that has an o2 sensor and then the other 2 do the same before the cat, then combine or have dual exhaust or something? Not sure. Curious what kind of car, might be able to find info online.
what would cause several MAF sensors, not just one to read around 35gs instead of 2-10 gs.
Not sure, maybe a wiring/connector issue if you don't really have more air moving past it?
@@obdnerdz it's normal at idle only at 2500-3000 rpm is way off
@@WV591 I’m no expert just trying to fix something myself but when there is more fuel injected obviously there should be more air coming in.. so maybe that number is normal?
@@evelynintrance Not normal at all. no long term fuel trim should be 32% hence pushing MAF into overload. long term and short term should be as close to 0 as possible +- 5% each. maybe close to 10% total.
You talk to much and don't explain a lot.
Interesting video but lose the "you know" in every sentence..
If you want a professor or teacher in language then go watch somebody else’s channel
This is why UA-cam is so useful! 👍
Thanks! Have a great rest of the weekend!