Dear Mr. Jerad, Silicon carbide powder NEVER washes off your fingers, and when it gets on a person's mucous membrane, it dries human's body - in the cell of his body (draws out moisture) at the cellular level. In this case never-ever use the Silicon carbide powder to leveling (flattening) CBN-stones (or others). Second, dust from silicon carbide powder can stay in the air an apartment for up to 1-1.5 weeks and it is WORSE THAN any dust in an apartment. Therefore, NEVER leveling sharpening stones on silicon carbide powder inside your apartment (!), but only on aluminum oxide and outside! This is well known in Japan, and they have studied this issue very deeply, so the Japanese make bars for leveling ONLY FROM ALUMINUM OXIDE (for example: Naniwa Pink Aluminum Oxide Flattening Stone, was making of aluminum oxide)
@timursadriev7987 your speaki.g of powder, this is grit it's to large of grains to go into air. When flattening it's done with water so it stays on surface until wiped, also do you realize almost everything you come in contact with metal wise has been blasted with the same thing you should be talking to the giant industries that use mega tons a year of it rather than the guy who's using a couple bottle cap fulls a year, however i will try to remember to tell people if they are doing this often to take it outside. I personally haven't had an issue but a small tiny bag lasts me for years. If worked with industrial blasting media where we wore complete suits and ofcourse it was very nasty, this imho is Zero issue
@@NeevesKnives Dear Mr.Jerad, Silicon carbides have their own smell, and aluminum carbide does not smell (!), which means that small particles fly - this is a physical phenomenon that you can smell with your nose. I will not argue, but you can consult with any chemist who knows biology, that the silicon carbide emulsion when drying begins to release silicon carbide dust, which flies no worse than house dust. However, nothing better for sharpening knives (in the cheap segment) for sharpening tools on an industrial scale has NOT BEEN INVENTED, so humanity will continue to use silicon carbide for a long time. However, if you study the industrial standards and health protection requirements when working with silicon carbide in grinding wheels, or with silicon carbide powders, then an AIR EXHAUST AND A MANDATORY RESPIRATOR will be a mandatory condition! I understand that leveling the block, which is done once every six months, will not affect an adult, but there may be children in the house or garage, to whom even a small dose can be harmful! You are a public figure, so you MUST voice industrial hygiene issues in your videos, and as in this case, it would be better to put on a respirator and inform the public that this operation MUST be performed outdoors, or with a strong exhaust hood in a respirator. I have often seen that people even with a grinder cut metal without glasses - this is their problem, but if you are going to film how they cut metal with a grinder, YOU MUST WEAR GLASSES because looking at you, people will also think that they can work without glasses. The same thing when working with silicon carbide powder - it does not matter that you do it once when filming a video and it does not worsen your health. The important thing is that looking at you, thousands of people who have not read and do not read the Industrial Safety Rules for Working with Silicon Carbides and Their Powders (this is a special course in mining universities) will do this, so it is better to warn people and show them the CORRECT WORK with this material and warn them about it. I live in California, and I always see a Warning that using aluminum causes cancer. At the same time, I use aluminum spoons, but this is my choice - I WAS WARNED ABOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF CANCER, right? So on your channel, there should be information that working with silicon carbide powder, according to the Safety Rules, should be carried out away from food products, away from children, in a room with an exhaust hood, or outside, with the obligatory use of a breathing respirator :-). These are my thoughts, Mr. Jerad. Whether you listen to me are your right, as this is your channel, which we ALL LOVE.
To be honest, for me as a hobby knife fan and sharpener my Atoma diamond plates are perfectly sufficient (140, 400, 600 and 1200 grit). For coarse grinding I use the Atoma (edge damage, reprofiling or when the cutting edge is really at the end of its useful life) and for finer grinding I use Shapton Pro ceramic stones, especially 1000 and 2000 grit. The ceramic whetstones are less aggressive and in my experience produce a finer grinding pattern, which you can clearly see under a magnifying glass. For honing I use a Shapton Pro 5000 and for stropping I use Stroppy Stuff on leather (soft and hard) and wood (linden and oak). So far I have used this method to get every one of my knives really, really sharp. I use practically the same method with my TSPROF Kadet Pro system, Atoma diamond plates + Boride T2 stones + leather and wood with Stroppy Stuff.
Great explanation as always Jerad. I'm sure you have mentioned it many times before but consistency of grit across different brands and products is key. I freehand but only for working edges not normally screaming Lazer beam edges like you do and I find that a 'medium' grit covers most of my needs. Thanks for the consistently good reviews
Distribution is a big problem that needs to be fixed. Grit consistency is a killer issue. Jared not sure how you can recommthem. I hope my stones for my TSPROF KO3 Hunter. Already, I am regretting my purchase.
I said my thoughts on what i would do, I said i prefer resin bond or Hybrids, The tsprof alphas are also amazing. So im not recommending them i recommend the others is what I said
Nice to see some different stones to recommend over Venev where they are so hard to get in the 3x8 sizes these days. Definatly a lifetime investment for your average user unless you do it professionally that is. That cost is alot up front though. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
Damn, that Waypoint LC has seen some use. Currently deciding which Resin/Metal bonded Diamond/Cbn stones to get for my TSprof. Tried getting venev stones, but they were sent back because German customs didn't allow the import of "Russian jewelry" under sanctions xD.
I keep having issues with the stones biting and doing great work and other times not biting much at all. I’m very confused and continue to use NSK Oboro resinoid sold at Rei Hamono.
Do you need to use different grit Nagura stones for cleaning coarse and fine metallic CBN sharpening stones? I read that you should not use silicon carbide powder for lapping because the silicone carbide can become stuck in the CBN stone/abrasive. I’ve also read that lapping/refreshing metallic-bond CBN stones is by etching with ferric chloride…which doesn’t look very fun! PDT premium metallic CBN stones are supposed to be pre-lapped from the factory and are not need to be lapped when they are new. I’m sure they do need a little time to “break in” when new. How would you compare Hapstone premium CBN stones, that use a hybrid bond, vs the KDTU CBN hybrid bonded stones? I’m guessing the KDTU are better because they seem to always be sold out! Thanks!
@NytefogNJ the hapstone premium are a metal bond cbn that require lapping from the start the come with a glaze over them, the kdtu you can use right away but it's still best to lap if possible, the kdtu hybrids are more resin like so I personally like them better as far as for burr removal and ultra fine finishes but the Hapstones will more than likely last longer but both will last a very long time. As far as the silicon carbide powder I haven't had any issues what so ever it actually works amazingly well, and no you don't need 2 grits for the conditioning stone. The grit on the stone comes from the diamonds which are already set in size and amount, with the nagura stone your only knocking down the bond to expose grit so it doesn't matter I personally use a little more of a coarse one so it works faster
@@NeevesKnives I appreciate your quick reply. Have you used ferric chloride & baking soda to Lapp/refresh any of your PDT metallic CBN stones? The only diamond stones I have are edge pro diamond matrix stones and the tsprof diamond stones that came with my K03 Pro. The rest of my stones are metal & resin bonded PDT CBN stones & Boride CS-HD stones. I would like to add the KDTU CBN hybrid bonded stones to my collection if they are restocked and on sale! I really like to just see how well they actually work compared to the resin and metal bonded CBN stones.
For comparisons sake: After lapping them I have used my Hapstone Premium CBN stones (hybrid bond) to sharpen a variety of "german style" kitchen knives (40ish atm) and profile and sharpen a couple S35VN and S30V pocket knives and I haven't even hit them with a nagura yet. The cutting has slowed down on the more used stones but they still cut well. All I have done is clean them once in a while with a magic eraser and water. I think I am about at the point where I will use a nagura to bring them back up. No dishing at all yet and I can still feel lots of abrasive but it is smoother nearer the middle. I have noticed small areas of "missing" CBN on my stones as well, little pockets where the grains aren't as evenly distributed. I think I emailed you a video showing how similar stones are made with abrasive/binder mixed and put into a mold, pressed under high pressure, then bonded in an oven. Most other reviews I have seen after people use metal/hybrid bond stones agree with you, after 1k,1500ish it is better to move to a resin bonded or ceramic stone for finishing, especially if you are going for a mirror edge.
Helpful hint here and it is in agreement with Poltava Factory. Only the cleaning/reconditioning stone for breaking new surface coating. Not for maintenance. for this, use an etchant such as ferric chloride mixed with water and let it etch the surface for apx. 20 to 30 minutes. It will bring out the sharp crystals. I use this method whereas the reconditioning stone makes the stone far slicker/smoother adn cut much slower by removing the very exposed surface crystals. KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the craft and in association with the original R.W. (Bob) Loveless and Jim Merritt Knife Shop
Hey buddy still waiting for my set of 1×6's you were going to send me to review. Did you forget, because the dream this happened in you pinky promised and breaking a pinky promise is worse than breaking a law. Haha maybe one day I'll get a set but right now budget is to tight.
Sorry but information about CBN that you provided are just marketing BS. CBN is notably softer than diamond. Real measured Knoop hardness is 4000-5000 for CBN and 7000-8000 for syntetic diamond. Diamond have better wear resistance and stay sharp longer than CBN. CBN does not cut faster than diamond. Diamond is significantly better than CBN for room temperature operation like hand sharpening.
I literally said that cbn is not as hard, but you can't tell the difference in sharpening applications also cbn does last longer that diamond for sharpening only. Diamond is more durable for heat applications etc. But they cut pretty much the same cbn is slightly more aggressive but you can't really notice that what so ever. I tested 2 diamond plates vs 2 cbn plates both very very coarse and the cbn lasted longer on both and that was compared to the longest lasting diamond plate I've ever tried or know of
@@NeevesKnives You said that that CBN is slightly softer than diamond. 4500 vs 7500 Knoop hardness. That's slightly softer? Come on. Sorry but it seems you mixed up properities of CBN and diamond. Diamond is NOT suited for heat applications. CBN is. CBN is not slightly more aggressive. Diamond is little bit more aggressive. CBN does not last longer. Diamond stays sharp longer than CBN. (Mainly because of higher hardness). You can easily verify this information. You can check many studies or experience of the others. You judged abrasives by your feel on small sample. Are you sure that your experience is without personal bias? Was your test fair? (New stones, same brand, same type of bond, same steel,...)
I made a large purchase (almost $300) on this website because of your reviews on another video and have had a nightmare experience with the USA partner of this business. He shipped me a blank metal plate with no stone. I video documented it seconds after opening the package. His Ukrainian partner, Alex replied and acknowledged it was a display from some show, and that it was definitely a mistake that his USA partner would fix. Well his partner refused to send out a correct stone until I returned it and made me pay to return it myself. He still has not shipped out a replacement stone despite the fake stone being confirmed as returned by USPS. He will not answer any communications and he only has his Ukrainian partner, Alex, reply. Alex is attempting to be helpful but he can do very little to actually get anything done. I paid for this 2 weeks ago and it hasn't even shipped and I had to pay return shipping on a fake product. This website is clearly run out of someone's house and it has no business presence you can find elsewhere online. A lot of people look up to you and i would seriously consider who you are recommending people do business with even if the products seem good
I will send this comment directly to them I'm sorry this happened to you hopefully they go up and beyond to make it right, I will see what I can do to help that happen
@ thanks a bunch. You are a respected voice and Alex has done his best but I know you get sent stuff and don't always know how it goes for their average customers. I appreciate you following up
@lukc i typically have the people that use my links give me feedback as I want to make sure they are taking good care of customers and if not then I know to either not deal with them or to warn against what could potentially happen.
What stone do you suggest for deburing on tsprof. I have tsprof diamond stones but am looking for something I can use at the very end to remove burr better.
Dear Mr. Jerad,
Silicon carbide powder NEVER washes off your fingers, and when it gets on a person's mucous membrane, it dries human's body - in the cell of his body (draws out moisture) at the cellular level. In this case never-ever use the Silicon carbide powder to leveling (flattening) CBN-stones (or others).
Second, dust from silicon carbide powder can stay in the air an apartment for up to 1-1.5 weeks and it is WORSE THAN any dust in an apartment. Therefore, NEVER leveling sharpening stones on silicon carbide powder inside your apartment (!), but only on aluminum oxide and outside!
This is well known in Japan, and they have studied this issue very deeply, so the Japanese make bars for leveling ONLY FROM ALUMINUM OXIDE (for example: Naniwa Pink Aluminum Oxide Flattening Stone, was making of aluminum oxide)
@timursadriev7987 your speaki.g of powder, this is grit it's to large of grains to go into air. When flattening it's done with water so it stays on surface until wiped, also do you realize almost everything you come in contact with metal wise has been blasted with the same thing you should be talking to the giant industries that use mega tons a year of it rather than the guy who's using a couple bottle cap fulls a year, however i will try to remember to tell people if they are doing this often to take it outside. I personally haven't had an issue but a small tiny bag lasts me for years. If worked with industrial blasting media where we wore complete suits and ofcourse it was very nasty, this imho is Zero issue
@@NeevesKnives Dear Mr.Jerad,
Silicon carbides have their own smell, and aluminum carbide does not smell (!), which means that small particles fly - this is a physical phenomenon that you can smell with your nose. I will not argue, but you can consult with any chemist who knows biology, that the silicon carbide emulsion when drying begins to release silicon carbide dust, which flies no worse than house dust. However, nothing better for sharpening knives (in the cheap segment) for sharpening tools on an industrial scale has NOT BEEN INVENTED, so humanity will continue to use silicon carbide for a long time. However, if you study the industrial standards and health protection requirements when working with silicon carbide in grinding wheels, or with silicon carbide powders, then an AIR EXHAUST AND A MANDATORY RESPIRATOR will be a mandatory condition! I understand that leveling the block, which is done once every six months, will not affect an adult, but there may be children in the house or garage, to whom even a small dose can be harmful!
You are a public figure, so you MUST voice industrial hygiene issues in your videos, and as in this case, it would be better to put on a respirator and inform the public that this operation MUST be performed outdoors, or with a strong exhaust hood in a respirator.
I have often seen that people even with a grinder cut metal without glasses - this is their problem, but if you are going to film how they cut metal with a grinder, YOU MUST WEAR GLASSES because looking at you, people will also think that they can work without glasses. The same thing when working with silicon carbide powder - it does not matter that you do it once when filming a video and it does not worsen your health. The important thing is that looking at you, thousands of people who have not read and do not read the Industrial Safety Rules for Working with Silicon Carbides and Their Powders (this is a special course in mining universities) will do this, so it is better to warn people and show them the CORRECT WORK with this material and warn them about it.
I live in California, and I always see a Warning that using aluminum causes cancer. At the same time, I use aluminum spoons, but this is my choice - I WAS WARNED ABOUT THE POSSIBILITY OF CANCER, right? So on your channel, there should be information that working with silicon carbide powder, according to the Safety Rules, should be carried out away from food products, away from children, in a room with an exhaust hood, or outside, with the obligatory use of a breathing respirator :-).
These are my thoughts, Mr. Jerad. Whether you listen to me are your right, as this is your channel, which we ALL LOVE.
To be honest, for me as a hobby knife fan and sharpener my Atoma diamond plates are perfectly sufficient (140, 400, 600 and 1200 grit). For coarse grinding I use the Atoma (edge damage, reprofiling or when the cutting edge is really at the end of its useful life) and for finer grinding I use Shapton Pro ceramic stones, especially 1000 and 2000 grit. The ceramic whetstones are less aggressive and in my experience produce a finer grinding pattern, which you can clearly see under a magnifying glass. For honing I use a Shapton Pro 5000 and for stropping I use Stroppy Stuff on leather (soft and hard) and wood (linden and oak). So far I have used this method to get every one of my knives really, really sharp. I use practically the same method with my TSPROF Kadet Pro system, Atoma diamond plates + Boride T2 stones + leather and wood with Stroppy Stuff.
Great explanation as always Jerad. I'm sure you have mentioned it many times before but consistency of grit across different brands and products is key. I freehand but only for working edges not normally screaming Lazer beam edges like you do and I find that a 'medium' grit covers most of my needs. Thanks for the consistently good reviews
Consistency is definitely key.
Distribution is a big problem that needs to be fixed. Grit consistency is a killer issue. Jared not sure how you can recommthem. I hope my stones for my TSPROF KO3 Hunter. Already, I am regretting my purchase.
I said my thoughts on what i would do, I said i prefer resin bond or Hybrids, The tsprof alphas are also amazing. So im not recommending them i recommend the others is what I said
Nice to see some different stones to recommend over Venev where they are so hard to get in the 3x8 sizes these days. Definatly a lifetime investment for your average user unless you do it professionally that is. That cost is alot up front though. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
I'm not recommending these over those I'm hoping to get there other stones in the 3x8
Good stuff. You went in depth about everything. I’ve got a lot to learn. Haha!🤣
Damn, that Waypoint LC has seen some use. Currently deciding which Resin/Metal bonded Diamond/Cbn stones to get for my TSprof. Tried getting venev stones, but they were sent back because German customs didn't allow the import of "Russian jewelry" under sanctions xD.
If you really want those get the tsprof alphas, they make them. Otherwise get the Kdtu hybrids from the link in description
@@NeevesKnivesNoted. Thanks, chief. Can't wait for the video on the fixed angle versions of these, as well as your favorites from this year.
KDTU or PDT stones we supply from the U.S. or from Ukraine. So the German Customs will let them to pass 😉
@VooDooPoltava they are from Ukraine but are on usa market site linked in description
Great. Something else to spend my money on. Thanks a lit Jarad! 🤣🤣🤣
Tell Kara I said hey!
Obviously KDTU hybrid bonded hones last longer and provide better sharpening properties.
Are you planning to review the USA-Market fixed-angle sharpener?
I keep having issues with the stones biting and doing great work and other times not biting much at all.
I’m very confused and continue to use NSK Oboro resinoid sold at Rei Hamono.
Do you need to use different grit Nagura stones for cleaning coarse and fine metallic CBN sharpening stones?
I read that you should not use silicon carbide powder for lapping because the silicone carbide can become stuck in the CBN stone/abrasive. I’ve also read that lapping/refreshing metallic-bond CBN stones is by etching with ferric chloride…which doesn’t look very fun!
PDT premium metallic CBN stones are supposed to be pre-lapped from the factory and are not need to be lapped when they are new. I’m sure they do need a little time to “break in” when new.
How would you compare Hapstone premium CBN stones, that use a hybrid bond, vs the KDTU CBN hybrid bonded stones? I’m guessing the KDTU are better because they seem to always be sold out!
Thanks!
@NytefogNJ the hapstone premium are a metal bond cbn that require lapping from the start the come with a glaze over them, the kdtu you can use right away but it's still best to lap if possible, the kdtu hybrids are more resin like so I personally like them better as far as for burr removal and ultra fine finishes but the Hapstones will more than likely last longer but both will last a very long time. As far as the silicon carbide powder I haven't had any issues what so ever it actually works amazingly well, and no you don't need 2 grits for the conditioning stone. The grit on the stone comes from the diamonds which are already set in size and amount, with the nagura stone your only knocking down the bond to expose grit so it doesn't matter I personally use a little more of a coarse one so it works faster
@@NeevesKnives I appreciate your quick reply. Have you used ferric chloride & baking soda to Lapp/refresh any of your PDT metallic CBN stones?
The only diamond stones I have are edge pro diamond matrix stones and the tsprof diamond stones that came with my K03 Pro. The rest of my stones are metal & resin bonded PDT CBN stones & Boride CS-HD stones.
I would like to add the KDTU CBN hybrid bonded stones to my collection if they are restocked and on sale! I really like to just see how well they actually work compared to the resin and metal bonded CBN stones.
Jared you have scared me. 😂😂😂
For comparisons sake: After lapping them I have used my Hapstone Premium CBN stones (hybrid bond) to sharpen a variety of "german style" kitchen knives (40ish atm) and profile and sharpen a couple S35VN and S30V pocket knives and I haven't even hit them with a nagura yet. The cutting has slowed down on the more used stones but they still cut well. All I have done is clean them once in a while with a magic eraser and water. I think I am about at the point where I will use a nagura to bring them back up. No dishing at all yet and I can still feel lots of abrasive but it is smoother nearer the middle.
I have noticed small areas of "missing" CBN on my stones as well, little pockets where the grains aren't as evenly distributed. I think I emailed you a video showing how similar stones are made with abrasive/binder mixed and put into a mold, pressed under high pressure, then bonded in an oven.
Most other reviews I have seen after people use metal/hybrid bond stones agree with you, after 1k,1500ish it is better to move to a resin bonded or ceramic stone for finishing, especially if you are going for a mirror edge.
Thank you for the detailed information I'm glad to hear we are coming to similar conclusions overall
Helpful hint here and it is in agreement with Poltava Factory. Only the cleaning/reconditioning stone for breaking new surface coating. Not for maintenance. for this, use an etchant such as ferric chloride mixed with water and let it etch the surface for apx. 20 to 30 minutes. It will bring out the sharp crystals. I use this method whereas the reconditioning stone makes the stone far slicker/smoother adn cut much slower by removing the very exposed surface crystals.
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the craft and in association with the original R.W. (Bob) Loveless and Jim Merritt Knife Shop
What are the main differences between the different bonded materials like resin or metal or hybrid (which means what in this scenario?)?
Hey buddy still waiting for my set of 1×6's you were going to send me to review. Did you forget, because the dream this happened in you pinky promised and breaking a pinky promise is worse than breaking a law. Haha maybe one day I'll get a set but right now budget is to tight.
Ii didn’t see the nagura stone in your Amazon store?(
It's there now sorry
What is a vetrified stone?
It's similar to a resin bonded diamond i think the bond is a ceramic and epoxy while resin bond is like an aluminum oxide and epoxy
Can I use my Atoma diamond stones to flatten the USA stones.
NOOO never put diamond on diamond your goal is to knock down the bond not the diamonds you will shatter them. Use silicon carbide or aluminum oxide
No you need Silicon carbide or ALUMINUM oxide. Sorry if I said it twice I can't see it
@@NeevesKnives Thank You.
I am stuck, I bought all the stones you recommended before. 😂😂😂. Now you’re not sure……. Ouch.
What do you mean, i gave my conclusion clear I prefer the resin bonded, or hybrids over these I'm not sure what you mean
NEED!!!
Sorry but information about CBN that you provided are just marketing BS.
CBN is notably softer than diamond. Real measured Knoop hardness is 4000-5000 for CBN and 7000-8000 for syntetic diamond.
Diamond have better wear resistance and stay sharp longer than CBN.
CBN does not cut faster than diamond.
Diamond is significantly better than CBN for room temperature operation like hand sharpening.
I literally said that cbn is not as hard, but you can't tell the difference in sharpening applications also cbn does last longer that diamond for sharpening only. Diamond is more durable for heat applications etc. But they cut pretty much the same cbn is slightly more aggressive but you can't really notice that what so ever. I tested 2 diamond plates vs 2 cbn plates both very very coarse and the cbn lasted longer on both and that was compared to the longest lasting diamond plate I've ever tried or know of
@@NeevesKnives You said that that CBN is slightly softer than diamond. 4500 vs 7500 Knoop hardness. That's slightly softer? Come on.
Sorry but it seems you mixed up properities of CBN and diamond.
Diamond is NOT suited for heat applications. CBN is.
CBN is not slightly more aggressive. Diamond is little bit more aggressive.
CBN does not last longer. Diamond stays sharp longer than CBN. (Mainly because of higher hardness).
You can easily verify this information. You can check many studies or experience of the others.
You judged abrasives by your feel on small sample.
Are you sure that your experience is without personal bias?
Was your test fair? (New stones, same brand, same type of bond, same steel,...)
I made a large purchase (almost $300) on this website because of your reviews on another video and have had a nightmare experience with the USA partner of this business. He shipped me a blank metal plate with no stone. I video documented it seconds after opening the package. His Ukrainian partner, Alex replied and acknowledged it was a display from some show, and that it was definitely a mistake that his USA partner would fix. Well his partner refused to send out a correct stone until I returned it and made me pay to return it myself. He still has not shipped out a replacement stone despite the fake stone being confirmed as returned by USPS. He will not answer any communications and he only has his Ukrainian partner, Alex, reply. Alex is attempting to be helpful but he can do very little to actually get anything done. I paid for this 2 weeks ago and it hasn't even shipped and I had to pay return shipping on a fake product. This website is clearly run out of someone's house and it has no business presence you can find elsewhere online. A lot of people look up to you and i would seriously consider who you are recommending people do business with even if the products seem good
I will send this comment directly to them I'm sorry this happened to you hopefully they go up and beyond to make it right, I will see what I can do to help that happen
@ thanks a bunch. You are a respected voice and Alex has done his best but I know you get sent stuff and don't always know how it goes for their average customers. I appreciate you following up
@lukc i typically have the people that use my links give me feedback as I want to make sure they are taking good care of customers and if not then I know to either not deal with them or to warn against what could potentially happen.
You definitely haven't heard about abrasive hygiene.
What stone do you suggest for deburing on tsprof. I have tsprof diamond stones but am looking for something I can use at the very end to remove burr better.
The tsprof alphas are amazing, and the stones from USA market that are resin bonded or hybrid bonded