Haha there are a few things I do differently, but the “air gap” between the foil and cedar isn’t one of them. Enjoy your smaller sauna, bud. I’lll bet you bake at 160° 😂
well.....except he should have used foil tape on the seams of the vapor barrier and 1x4 ventilation lumber behind the tongue and groove cedar to allow the walls to breath...important steps
How fo people still not understand this, heat (steam) rises, so your stove needs to be either so huge in comparison to your sauna that it is able to pump out enough steam to fill the ENTIRE room, OR you can do it the proper way, and make sure your stove is at or below your foot level when sitting on the bench, and your head as close to the ceiling as possible, as in within 1-2 ft. There is no reason for your sauna to have a meter of dead space above your head, might as well go sit outside and throw water in the snow at that point. Saunas should have proper ventilation also, one below, one above, and dead space, meaning below your feet snd above your head should be minimized, you can even build solid benches if you want, and that way you arent wasting heat in the dead space underneath the bench. Also, if you have a very large, height wise, or width wise, you need to make sure your sauna stove is big enough to heat all of that volume. Oh yeah, and make sure you dont leave exposed metal fasteners to burn your ass or back on.
Pretty good overall. But the benches are too low. Normal rule of thumb is 48" under the ceiling for the top bench, then 18" below for the next etc. Otherwise you wont get the Loyly, and will end up with cold feet and a super warm head.
Lack of furring strips to create an air gap between the paneling and reflective foil will result in a lot of heat loss through conduction. This is the most-common error I see in sauna installations.
Most sources I've seen recommend 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19mm), and I'd go with that. I have seen as little as 1/4 inch, but I wouldn't go that small. For one thing, at that size, the furring strips would be pretty fragile and prone to splitting.
@@matthewshepherd826use cor-a-vent as furring, you can but in different thickness, and super easy to cut, screw, and it has breathing holes all throughout, its almost like thick cardboard strips, but it's plastic.
You didnt tape the foil with foil tape where you have ovelaps ..your heat will escape in to your insulation .. , and you need to leave space betwwen wood and foil
@@newmoon984331 cedar is what is mainly used in the USA but not the traditional wood type outside of the US.. Fir and Spruce are mainly used.. for the original commenter any soft wood with clear grain.. meaning no knots or dark spots is best.. the darker the spot the hotter that spot gets
I'm in the middle of building a custom basement sauna and have a question about ventilation hoping to get some feedback from those with experience - the adjacent room is a 7'x7' bedroom closet and the other side is a large rec. room, can I exhaust into the bedroom closet or is there a concern of too much humidity being pumped into such a small space? Also, should I close off this vent during use then open it once I'm done? I'm assuming you would want to keep the heat in as much as possible while you use it. Lastly, for the intake, rather than a vent I'm planning on keeping the door 1/2" above the floor which is also where the heater will be located - would this suffice?
I've never built indoor saunas, but i would be concerned about both the high heat and the humidity.. is there a way to run a small 3inch hvac ducting out to the outside like maybe in a ceiling joist of the basement? the vents are to allow oxygen in and out.. poor designed saunas with no airflow will lead to light headedness and dizziness in high heat. those vents wont make too much difference with a heat roaring at 180F.. my main sauna is in the mtns of Idaho and i have 4in intake wide open at the base by the wood stove and then diagonally across the sauna at the ceiling is the next 4in outlet which is usually wide open also, even at single digit outside temps.. and it make no difference inside the sauna.. for the intake that you mentioned that should be enough.. depending on the airflow movement in your home.. modern highly sealed homes make air travel more difficult.. but start with that door gap and see.. worst case you'll need to add a secondary intake vent.
My old room was literally right next to our basement sauna, and the idiots who built that sauna did just that, vented it into my room instead of outside. That room was its own sauna every time someone was taking a sauna, my room got hot, and SUPER humid,DO NOT vent it back into your house, it's meant to exhaust to the outdoors to get rid of the steam, and exchange air.
How about friends I hope and someone could guide me, I am about to start a sauna project, but I have a question, what type of finish, protection, lacquer, or what type of finish is recommended for wood? (I plan to buy wood without any treatment for the project) but I would like to know what protection I can give the wood, so that it resists humidity and sauna temperatures. Again, greetings to all, I hope you can help me.
If it's on the inside, the wood needs nothing, the left over heat from the sauna dries the wood out after every sauna, you just leave the door open a small crack for air to leave.
The air gap planks are more for commercial use due to the heavy use of many people and the heat being in for more than 2 hours . A home sauna will be fine without it .
Totally wrong build. Wapor barrier should have airgap before panels and vapor barrier should not be punctuated, with minium holes. In Finland we use foam insulation sheets with aluminium cover that is tape with aluminium tape to have tight seal. And panels are attached on joints that are making a gap to have air to flow behind the panels.
Opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one. It's amazing the number of videos I have watched while building the sauna for my wife... and they all contradict each other🤣🤣🤣 You know back in the day, before there was insulation saunas we're just made out of sticks🤣🤣🤣
@@rdhaines1966 have fun with it! It's going to feel great when you get it done... at least that's what I keep telling myself as I'm freezing my ass off in the PNW while building ours 😉🤣🤣🤣
video is amazing and will help a lot to those who want to build. I would agree to some comments there about. Just wondering if all this came from experience, books about sauna or your mentor. I know there are many opinions on how to properly build a sauna, but if that works for many years, this is a good one.
Agreed best step by step video and without the commentary.
im using this for my build step by step, best video out there for details, really helped me with the benches on my first ever sauna build
Nice build.. just needed an air gap between vapor barrier and boards
Haha there are a few things I do differently, but the “air gap” between the foil and cedar isn’t one of them. Enjoy your smaller sauna, bud. I’lll bet you bake at 160° 😂
Awesome video! Best step by step video I have seen! Thank you
Very nice build. It's obvious you do this for living.
well.....except he should have used foil tape on the seams of the vapor barrier and 1x4 ventilation lumber behind the tongue and groove cedar to allow the walls to breath...important steps
You nailed it pardner
How fo people still not understand this, heat (steam) rises, so your stove needs to be either so huge in comparison to your sauna that it is able to pump out enough steam to fill the ENTIRE room, OR you can do it the proper way, and make sure your stove is at or below your foot level when sitting on the bench, and your head as close to the ceiling as possible, as in within 1-2 ft. There is no reason for your sauna to have a meter of dead space above your head, might as well go sit outside and throw water in the snow at that point. Saunas should have proper ventilation also, one below, one above, and dead space, meaning below your feet snd above your head should be minimized, you can even build solid benches if you want, and that way you arent wasting heat in the dead space underneath the bench. Also, if you have a very large, height wise, or width wise, you need to make sure your sauna stove is big enough to heat all of that volume. Oh yeah, and make sure you dont leave exposed metal fasteners to burn your ass or back on.
Best video I’ve seen so far!
Sick tile floors brother
Pretty good overall. But the benches are too low. Normal rule of thumb is 48" under the ceiling for the top bench, then 18" below for the next etc. Otherwise you wont get the Loyly, and will end up with cold feet and a super warm head.
can I use mold resistant drywall on the outside of the sauna construct? or would cement board be better? and why?
nice job where to you buy this kit?
Love the Russian accent! Why didnt you leave a gap for circulation between the radiant vapor barrier and the cedar planks?
Yes important too. Have so the cedar drys.
Lack of furring strips to create an air gap between the paneling and reflective foil will result in a lot of heat loss through conduction. This is the most-common error I see in sauna installations.
You're not wrong, I think if its an insulated wall though it will be minor. Most would rather the extra space vs loosing a few inches.
How much of an air gap is needed? Is 10mm too little?
Most sources I've seen recommend 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19mm), and I'd go with that. I have seen as little as 1/4 inch, but I wouldn't go that small. For one thing, at that size, the furring strips would be pretty fragile and prone to splitting.
@@matthewshepherd826use cor-a-vent as furring, you can but in different thickness, and super easy to cut, screw, and it has breathing holes all throughout, its almost like thick cardboard strips, but it's plastic.
Sealing the vapor barrier with tap on the seams and staples and around the holes , or its usless to even use the vapor barrier....
where can i buy vapor barirer foil ?
What is the distance between the mounting points of the heaters safety rail? Great build.
Note: When a sprinkler head is required, ensure that it is high temperature rated! A standard head will break, and set off the fire alarm.
hot hot does it get in there? I'd like to see it in actual use. Thx
Not hot enough, bench is waaay too low.
You didnt tape the foil with foil tape where you have ovelaps ..your heat will escape in to your insulation .. , and you need to leave space betwwen wood and foil
How much should the space be? Is 1-2cm enough?
Awesome video
What did you use for a floor
Where he’s from he doesn’t need a floor
Are the 2x4 also special wood or are the regular wood?
they appear to be cedar, which is mold and rot resistant. cedar is what is used in building saunas.
@@newmoon984331 cedar is what is mainly used in the USA but not the traditional wood type outside of the US.. Fir and Spruce are mainly used.. for the original commenter any soft wood with clear grain.. meaning no knots or dark spots is best.. the darker the spot the hotter that spot gets
I'm in the middle of building a custom basement sauna and have a question about ventilation hoping to get some feedback from those with experience - the adjacent room is a 7'x7' bedroom closet and the other side is a large rec. room, can I exhaust into the bedroom closet or is there a concern of too much humidity being pumped into such a small space? Also, should I close off this vent during use then open it once I'm done? I'm assuming you would want to keep the heat in as much as possible while you use it. Lastly, for the intake, rather than a vent I'm planning on keeping the door 1/2" above the floor which is also where the heater will be located - would this suffice?
I've never built indoor saunas, but i would be concerned about both the high heat and the humidity.. is there a way to run a small 3inch hvac ducting out to the outside like maybe in a ceiling joist of the basement? the vents are to allow oxygen in and out.. poor designed saunas with no airflow will lead to light headedness and dizziness in high heat. those vents wont make too much difference with a heat roaring at 180F.. my main sauna is in the mtns of Idaho and i have 4in intake wide open at the base by the wood stove and then diagonally across the sauna at the ceiling is the next 4in outlet which is usually wide open also, even at single digit outside temps.. and it make no difference inside the sauna.. for the intake that you mentioned that should be enough.. depending on the airflow movement in your home.. modern highly sealed homes make air travel more difficult.. but start with that door gap and see.. worst case you'll need to add a secondary intake vent.
My old room was literally right next to our basement sauna, and the idiots who built that sauna did just that, vented it into my room instead of outside. That room was its own sauna every time someone was taking a sauna, my room got hot, and SUPER humid,DO NOT vent it back into your house, it's meant to exhaust to the outdoors to get rid of the steam, and exchange air.
How about friends I hope and someone could guide me, I am about to start a sauna project, but I have a question, what type of finish, protection, lacquer, or what type of finish is recommended for wood? (I plan to buy wood without any treatment for the project) but I would like to know what protection I can give the wood, so that it resists humidity and sauna temperatures. Again, greetings to all, I hope you can help me.
Paraffin oil
just use cedar, it will last a lifetime. make sure its ventilated for when not in use.
If it's on the inside, the wood needs nothing, the left over heat from the sauna dries the wood out after every sauna, you just leave the door open a small crack for air to leave.
The air gap planks are more for commercial use due to the heavy use of many people and the heat being in for more than 2 hours . A home sauna will be fine without it .
How much did this cost you in materials?
Around CA$4000 without heater
@@xclusiveart9483 is that US dollars?
What did you use for the flooring?
That's a tile floor
Totally wrong build. Wapor barrier should have airgap before panels and vapor barrier should not be punctuated, with minium holes. In Finland we use foam insulation sheets with aluminium cover that is tape with aluminium tape to have tight seal. And panels are attached on joints that are making a gap to have air to flow behind the panels.
Can you provide a video where it's explained and done step by step the way you wrote it?
Opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one. It's amazing the number of videos I have watched while building the sauna for my wife... and they all contradict each other🤣🤣🤣 You know back in the day, before there was insulation saunas we're just made out of sticks🤣🤣🤣
@@ThomasLips I was thinking the same thing as I was reading this. I'm going to start building a sauna myself.
@@rdhaines1966 have fun with it! It's going to feel great when you get it done... at least that's what I keep telling myself as I'm freezing my ass off in the PNW while building ours 😉🤣🤣🤣
Those that contradict this advice have not done their research and/or lack a basic understanding of physics.
That is far away of professional sauna building. Ridiculous.
How much does the installation cost in North York? Great video!
video is amazing and will help a lot to those who want to build. I would agree to some comments there about. Just wondering if all this came from experience, books about sauna or your mentor. I know there are many opinions on how to properly build a sauna, but if that works for many years, this is a good one.