BMW E46 N42/N46 Valve Stem Seals - Replacement DIY Guide
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- Опубліковано 29 січ 2018
- Check the links below to get the Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Check out updated video series: • BMW N42/N46 Valve Stem... .
DIY Valve stem seals replacement on a BMW N42/N46 engine.
Engine suddenly started consuming a lot of oil (6 dcl/1000 km). I had some substantial oil leaks, so I first had to replace:
- oil pan gasket,
- valve cover gasket,
- Valvetronic motor gasket
- Valvetronic sensor connector flange,
- vaccum pump o-rings,
- VANOS solenoid o-rings.
I also replaced the CCV system, but nothing fixed the oil consumption problem. Replacing the valve stem seals was the next step...
LINKS
My valve spring compressor toolkit: bimmerzen.com/store (thanks for supporting my work:)
Timing toolkit: goo.gl/49sjqB
Flexible air valve holder: goo.gl/nmLnP5
Valve stem seal remover/installer pliers: goo.gl/NGq5Dw
Service manuals: goo.gl/OJp4la
Parts: goo.gl/eCGXJm
BimmerZen assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BimmerZen recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BimmerZen , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BimmerZen. - Авто та транспорт
this is some next level diy, those stem seals are common problem on this engine, but if i see what i need to do to replace this... think twice about buying this engine
True:) These engines are often problematic due to poor oil maintenance and short distance driving. But even if the maintenance is good, there is still the plastic rail guide that can break...
Awesome work.I had a same problem few years ago,but it was impossible to find any information on net or UA-cam for N42 engine,so i let mechanic do it.He said he used some kind of shortcut,not sure what he meant.Anyway it worked and no more oil consumption for last 3 years.Keep up the good work.
how much did it cost?
I think he used "the shortcut" that Bimmerzen also used. In other cars you would normally remove the cylinder head and remove the Valves I believe. So the shortcut is that the cylinder part has not to be removed I think.
This video is a true life saver, including the links in the description!!!
Thanks! Be sure to check out my other videos on valve stem seals replacement as they do include updated information and procedures.
Brate, najjaci si! Svaka cast... 👍💪👏
Great video,thx for all the tips
Hey, nice job. Thanks for the video. Gretings form poland :)
TheElemeh tnx!
Btw that video is legendary! You’ve done an amazing job.
Tnx, appreciate it!
@@BimmerZen hello i watched 5 of your videos they are really smart i have same car and engine too so i wanted to ask you if you had same problem when i was coming to traffick lights or just coming to a stop my car randomly shuts of i try to turn it on again and i need couple trys,abouth 2 minutes max then he turns on and runs nice what could be problem ?ty in advance
@@darkmagician2730 Thanks! Do you have any trouble with idle? This happened to me when i had a vaccum leak and engine would stall at traffic stop sometimes... Also try scan for codes, INPA works best for N42 engines
@@BimmerZen vaccum leak from what? I think it is camshaft sensor but i changed intake and cranck and now i need to test is it exaust camshaft when i go to read codes from original bmw service sometimes shows all 3 sensors , 4 mechanics cant diagnose problem it is so anxious,and mostly he shuts of when coming to a stop when in place (with idle supose) just turn of 1 time
@@darkmagician2730 Very hard to say... I would clear the error codes (you need to save existing error codes history first - for further analysis) then scan again after car dies. If the 3 error codes come back, you have a starting point for diagnosis. Do you have the numbers of those error codes? INPA also gives some additional descriptions that can help a lot with diagnosis.
Thanks for the nice video, dude. Good job!
Tnx!
Great video, very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Currently working on a mercedes om602 SOHC and watching videos of what would be in store if I later buy an E46 compact with 4 cylinders *or why I shouldn't*
I could make the tool but very much sod that for a casual engine job.. practice makes perfect but valve keepers aren't much fun, even when a head's literally on the kitchen side.. great work btw
On edit, I accidentally found out how to make UA-cam comments in bold
This is an old video, I've made a much better tool for this job: ua-cam.com/video/BMk7dwtj_i0/v-deo.html
Perfect job. Well done!
This is NOT A DiY guide .... but very very useful.
😅 you can do it!
@@BimmerZen :D sure if I had a lathe, and the full of the shelf kit sitting around ! :D :D
good wrench diy. nice procedure and video
Tnx!
Nice video man....
Also check out PART 1 of the more complete DIY guide: ua-cam.com/video/WJZ4e_Ku_Yk/v-deo.html
Contact me at bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com to get the Valve Spring Compressor Tool.
very helpful.... i forgot secure inlet camshaft, i will hard to install the inlet
If the inlet camshaft was not secured when you removed the VALVETRONIC bracket, you HAVE to make SURE that all the pieces and springs are in correct position during reassembly. Before putting back the inlet side, reassemble all the components of VALVETRONIC and secure the follower rocker arms with zip ties - CHECK that the springs are aligned correctly. Otherwise you will damage the engine on startup as the parts fall out of position!
Nice video! Subscribed :) Did the ccv and replaced the vacuum pump on mine in January, was not much fun...
Yup, BMW makes you bleed for the CCV in this car:D I will upload a video on how to change the CCV with some tips and tricks.
Thank you so much. I have this problem now in my car. But should I change the timing chain also. because in the Workshop told me I must to change it also.
It's a good idea, but much more work. The plastic chain quide rails are prone to breaking and you can only change them if you remove the chain. If the car is worth a lot to you and you want to be 100% sure, change the guides, tensioner and the chain. If the car is not worth a lot and you don't have any rattling noise on cold starts, then I would suggest only changing the seals.
If you change the chain you also have to remove the oil sump and make sure the balancing shafts are aligned correctly - there is a special tool for that... Also check and clean the oil pickup line with filter screen while you are down there:)
good video!
svaka cast...
First good manual i've seen about this. Thanks. Can you shov how to fix rattling noise at cold start in n42 or n46 ?
Rattling noise is usually caused by loose chain. That could be due to weak/worn tensioner or worn/stretched chain.
Second reason could also be worn lifters...
I really like your video and it is very useful for our DIYers. How old is the car and what is the KM so far?
2001, 200kkm:)
awsome job man!
can u tell me common vacuum leaks on 318 n42 engine, or made a vid for it
anyway thanks alot for it
Hi, sorry for late response!
Here are some common vacuum leaks (in order - in my opinion):
- CCV hoses (also broken CCV membrane),
- VANOS solenoid o-rings (also very common oil leak),
- VALVETRONIC position sensor flange gasket (also very common oil leak, which can leak in to the sensor and foul it - expensive!),
- cracks in intake boot and connected fuel pressure regulator line (small rubber hose),
- valve cover gasket and spark plug cylinders o-rings,
- intake manifold gasket,
- oil dipstick tube O-ring (can be damaged or incorrectly installed during oil pan gasket replacement).
good information 👍👍👍
Thank you …
Hello ,the engine from a e46 type n46b20 can be fited on a e91 n46b20b? Thx
What is amount of pressure I need to apply, to avoid falling valve into cylinder? Good job!
I don't have the exact number. I started with the air pressure regulator closed and then increased the pressure until I could hear oil bubbling inside the oil pan (due to blowby). I then decreased the pressure just a bit to stop the bubbling. Don't forget to give the valves a firm tap with a socket and a hammer before compressing the spring to loosen the keepers from the spring plate.
You will probably also have to lock the crankshaft with a socket and a ratchet so it doesn't spin under pressure.
Tnx and good luck!
Hey,
Great job on changing out those valve stem seals. My beemer is not using much oil but it is passing a huge amount of oil through the ccv system where i have installed a catch can. If i do not recirculate the oil back to the oil pan the can will fill up over a few hundred miles. This is even with the catch can venting to atmosphere so there is not suction from inlet manifold.
I thought this might have been due to the stem seals but not to sure.
Any idea on why this might be? Also how to prevent so much creamy oil sludge.
Tnx for your comment!
Oil in your catch can comes from oil vapor inside the crankcase. Increased blow-by pressure can cause the catch can to fill up quicker, even when your vacuum line is disconnected. Increased blow-by might be due to worn or stuck piston rings and even due to bad valve seals (pressure coming up through the head on the combustion/exhaust stroke). I am not a professional so this is just my opinion on what is going on. Maybe there is nothing wrong at all and the oil is supposed to drain back in to the oil pan.
The yellow mayonnaise sludge is most likely due to water in the oil and it happens in cold humid climate and is amplified by short drives where the engine never gets hot. The best way to avoid this is to heat up the engine periodically (weekly spirited drive on a highway:) to evaporate the moisture. You can also shut off cabin heater/ventilation to get engine up to temperature quicker. I would also recommend changing the oil after every winter.
Hope this helps:)
Also, I still have yellow creamy oil sludge after replacing the seals and no oil consumption. I drive short distances in the cold mornings and cold evenings.
Really nice video. Thank you!
Great video. Did it solved the problem ? I have a N42, and the idle is weak and it smokes blue, this could fix the problem ? I did not replaced the CCV valve yet
Changing valve stem seals fixed oil consumption and blue smoke issue, changing CCV did not, but it's worth a try before doing the big job.
@@BimmerZen Thank you. Well, big job so it is 👍
Hi, Great video. I’m contemplating doing it as my 2002 E46 2litre is blowing a lot of smoke. Is your procedure above the same for my car? Cheers!
Yes. I suggest you check out my other videos on changing valve stem seals as I have updated, improved and more detailed videos on this job.
@@BimmerZen Thanks, I will!
Great video. great job ! thank you very much for this.
but i have a question.
Do you think - is it possible to do this without air compress ? or valve will fall down in to cylinder ?
Can i rotate flywheel to get DTC position for 1,2,3,4 cylinder ?
Tnx man!
You can use a piece of rope and stuff it inside the cylinder to prevent valves from slipping (search YT for that method). You can also rotate the crankshaft to TDC for every cylinder, but the valves might slip 1-3 cm, so you have to compress the spring more - not really sure if it would work... I recommend using compressed air method in any case - it's easier and faster. You can also buy compression leakdown testing tool and use that to hookup air instead of special tool I made myself.
You are gorgeous
Thank you very much
Hi mate, do you have to remove all this to get the spark plug tubes out for #2 & #3 ? Cheers
I'm afraid so. You must remove the valvetronic assembly.
One question....i have a bmw 116i 115hp petrol. It's a direct fuel engine? After you replace the seals....the fuel/air mixture could clean the sludge in intake valves?
I think you have the N45B16A engine (
hi thanks for the great diy.
I have lots of blue smoke from exhaust after using 5w30 in oil change. but no oil consumption. coukd be the ccv or is valce seals? no oil consumption. thx
Blue smoke is usually from oil being burnt. If you don't notice oil level dropping (also check the dipstick) I would just wait and see what happens.
Check for "mayonnaise" on the oil fill cap/dipstick. If you drive short distances in cold weather, the moisture from air mixed with oil could clog up the CCV and cause white-blueish smoke coming from exhaust. Also check your coolant color and level. If the color is brown and/or level is low you might have a problem with coolant leak inside the engine.
@@BimmerZen thanks. here is a background story of the car:
this e87 118i was importrd from japan. car sit for months waiting to be sold, then traveled abother month in ship. and sit other month here before I bought it.
car wasnt smoking that bad, but after oil change to spec 5w30 it started to smoke crazy.
I changed to a Liqui moly 10w40 and poured an injector cleaner in gas tank. now it still smokes but less.
no mayonaisse in oil cap, no oil or coolant loss. its clean when cold, it warms up and will smoke after idling g for a min. After hard accel it will blow smoke cloud and then no more smoke till next idling stopped. car runs strong. I will change the ccv and hoses... start from there. could be valve steam seals? or can get away with ccv service only? thanks!
@@odirvonhauser805 Your symptoms are very consistent with bad valve stem seals. When the engine starts, oil is thicker and combustion chamber/pistons are cold. There is a lot of vacuum during idle, so when everything is cold, there won't be much smoke, but after it warms up, oil seeps past bad valve stem seals and show up as blue smoke. That's why there's most smoke when reving the engine after idling (pulling away after red light situation). Also, the problem gets worse if you use thiner 5w30 oil... If the CCV system wasn't replaced before i would suggest you do that first. It's easier and faster. If that doesn't solve your problem, change the stem seals.
Hi, do you have drawings of your special compression tool? Awesome.
I gave that tool year ago to a subscriber:) I created a special new 3D printed tool that works much better and faster. If you wish to support my work you can order it on my website: bimmerzen.com/store
Hey man nice video! I'm going to do the job myself, when i'm putting back the camshaft do i need special tools? I have the chain timing set do i need something else?
Tnx!
You will need a torque wrench calibrated to 0.6 Nm for chain pretensioning. I used my 10-25Nm torque wrench calibrated to 0.6 Nm. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/tziMjg7UGr0/v-deo.html. It is also a good idea to use angle gauge for tightening the VANOS bolts (20Nm + 2x90 deg turn). Also make sure you follow the procedure described in service manual! I will have a complete DIY guide on this job edited and uploaded on YT soon, so stay tuned for more info.
Hey buddy, I’m mid way through the top but the ties weren’t the rockers to the cam shaft properly. When I lifted it out it all came apart and now the cam shaft sprung off. Do you have a diagram or any advice on the orientation of the cam shaft and how it connects back to the rockers and springs? Cheers!
ua-cam.com/video/iIYY7k6zhFE/v-deo.html
First of all, congratulations!! I've watched the entire valve stem series and your step by step is just perfect ! I have just a small doubt about connecting compressed air to the cylinder... Is it really necessary or with a little more pacient, the replacement can be done without this?? I ask this because I'm thinking about doing this myself on my E90, and I don't think I can make the adapter like you did... Thanks in advance
You can use a piece of nylon rope and cram it in through the spark plug hole to prevent valves from falling in to the cylinder. Be ware; rope can get tangled inside the cylinder! Always put the piston in TDC when compressing the valve springs, valves can fall in to the cylinder if piston is not in TDC!
E90 is a different engine N43 with different Rocker Cover and completely different injection system and as far I remeber even the camshaft locking tool is different than N42 and N46.
Hi! I watch other video,he only hold the camshaft by 4 zip ties .
Sorry for late reply!
I don't speak the language but i think he is assembling the valvetronic from start - not removing it from the engine. The difference is that when removing the valvetronic, the camshaft is in a position (TDC) where some intermediate levers are not positively tensioned with valvetronic springs and will slide out of position! This is exactly what happened to me here: ua-cam.com/video/D6dNF5Yr3qQ/v-deo.html
How loos the spark plugs after removal? Do them was black? Also will valve stem seals make fail on emissions?
The sparkplugs were a bit more dark and sooted, but I passed the emissions test and never had any cat issues. However, I think that if you don't fix the issue soon it will degrade the cat, probes, exhaust manifold, spark plugs, etc...
Where are you from?)
Отличное видео, как раз другу надо помочь колпачки поменять. Но приблуды для выставления фаз нету. Придётся ваять из говна и палок.
I'm having trouble finding the E25 torx socket that is listed in 00:18 Are you sure it's E25? Where it's used? Btw, many thanks for your videos! Are awesome!
@@myairflow Ok, thanks!
Well spotted! I've made a mistake in the description, it's an E8 torx:)
ua-cam.com/video/rzA_7zMssuU/v-deo.html
Great job and loved the video! I also have a problem with my n42 engine, a constant rattle coming front somewhere underneath the valve cover that intensifies as the engine gets warmer. When the engine is cold the rattle is barely audible. I suspect is the vacuum pump...what do you think is the problem??
Rattle at startup (1-3 sec) is usually slack chain due to low oil pressure or weak tensioner. Valvetronic system activates after engine is warmed up (1min) so there could be an issue there. Another possible cause might be bad VANOS units or solenoids. Hard to say without further diagnostics... Did you scan for any codes?
Why do you suspect the vacuum pump? Vacuum pump is connected directly to exhaust camshaft so noise should not be temperature related, unless its an issue with oil viscosity.
@@BimmerZen i will scan for codes too this week hope i will get a result...at idle i also get a bit of smoke somewhere back of the engine bay wich smells like burnt oil...i guess the vacuum pump seals are bad and is leaking oil on the exhaust manifold.
@@niculeteschannel118 Yes, smoke and burnt oil smell shortly after startup is usually caused by leaking vacuum pump seals.
Do you put every cylinder on tdc when changing the valve stems or is it enough when the first is on tdc?
i dont think u can align all pistons at TDC at the same time lol
I belive 1 and 4 are on the Top, after that u must move to put 2 an 3 to the Top...we don't wanna see fall down a valve into the cilinder... :O
what is the pressure set on compressor by you in order to not let the valve go down!
bogysan465 I put approximately 6bar of pressure.
Ciao.sono Gennaro dall'Italia.
Il tuo video e favoloso .
Volevo sapere come fare per costruire la chiave per comprimere le molle delle valvole.oppure si vende da qualche parte ?
Grazie un saluto.
Attendo risposta grazie di nuovo
Ho fatto lo strumento da solo. Puoi comprare uno strumento speciale, ma è costoso: www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1966337-new?product=SCM4246VSCT
Ciao volevo ringraziarti per l'informazione.
Volevo chiederti se era possibile inviarmi qualche foto dell'attrezzo , con misure diametro
Oppure se lo vendevi e a che prezzo. Grazie di nuovo gentilissimo
Proverò a realizzare il prototipo dello strumento con la stampante 3D. In questo modo posso renderne ancora un po 'per gli abbonati o pubblicare il file di stampa 3D.
Tuttavia, ci vorrà almeno un mese perché non ho molto tempo ...
Cercherò anche di inviarti disegno con le dimensioni quando avrò il tempo
now is burning oil?¿?¿? less or nothing at all
Hy am struggling to get the repair manual and service manual
Maybe I missed something, did you block the crankshaft at the flywheel? If not it is a dangerous game to have all those spark plugs removed with the valvetrain disconnected, the crankshaft can turn unexpectedly. Just leave the plugs in as long as possible.
Not entirely sure what you mean... I agree that you should not rotate the crankshaft with the cams disconnected - pistons can hit the valves. But once the cams are removed, you can rotate the crankshaft freely without any issues.
hoi with geert. can you tell me how you make the diy sparkplug for the air compress. you break off the porcelin from the spark plug? i not really understand how i can copy it to do my seals. regards geert
Sorry for late reply! Yes, you have to break the porcelain and weld on a steel metal pipe and fit a fitting. Otherwise you can also buy this flexible compressor adapter on ebay or use the adapter that comes with the compression tester tool. In latter case you have to unscrew the check valve from the adapter.
You can also use a 3 meter of nylon rope which worked very well in my N42. Make sure you turn counter clock wise the crankcase 90 degrees and start putting the rope in. Then turn the crankcase normal to TDC on the working cylinder. Worked great here and no stress haha. But air pressure also works flawlessly
Is this also possible for the m20 engine?
I never worked on that engine so i dont know.
Is it possible to get more information about the tool you have made to squeeze the valve spring. Short instructions that I do. Thx
I'll try to make a 3D printed model based on the aluminium tool I use in the video. Then I'll post some measurements...
BimmerZen Thank you. I can also measure dimensions with the pictures and so I think I make it from aluminum or iron
I just made a model for 3D printing. PM me if you would like to be the first one to test it:)
BimmerZen I do not know how to send you pm
makysplit add me on IG: bimmerzen and send me a message
Hello, do you have the part number of the bag with new bolts? Camshaft pulley
PN: 11367500574
@@BimmerZen if i put the exhaust camshaft in it needs to fit in the locking tool in the back but could i fit it 180° wrong?
Hola muy buen video. Donde puedo conseguir el compresor de muelles de valvula que usas en el video?
Получить ты можешь за щееку, а надо говорить пожалуйста 😀✋
Hey man great video, can i change the valve seals with out putting air on the cilinders? By just putting the engine at top dead center. And first do the 1ste and 4th one? And then 2 and 3.
I'm not sure. It depends how much the valves move down in to the cylinder before they reach the piston. Not sure if you have enough of the valve stem left when you compress the spring...
You could still use the rope method if you dont want to mess with the compressed air....
@@BimmerZen and how do you do that? And thanks for answering so soon
@@filipbarac1733 Search YT for "valve stem seals rope" and you will find plenty of videos describing this method. Basically, you can stuff nylon rope inside the cylinder to fill the gap between piston and valve so it wont fall in when compressing springs.
The valve seals on the exhaust side are harder to get out on mine is this normal? Also I tried using the plier pulling tool n it’s extremely hard to get out any tips?
In my experience, there is no difference in removing intake or exhaust seals... You can use a long 15 mm socket and tap it on to the seal and then pull it off: ua-cam.com/video/BMk7dwtj_i0/v-deo.html
@@BimmerZen thank you tried this and the valve came out within 2 mins
The new shafts must be knocked into place with either a special tool or a long matching socket before putting the spring back on.
so in this engine don't have to use a special tool to insert the valve stem seals
Not realy, you can do it by hand.
Outstanding job! His much did time did you use from start to finish?
First time it took me about 10 hours, now, with proper tools and experience, i can probably do it in 4.
@@BimmerZen That's impressive! 👍🏻
@@BimmerZen todo serviço em 4 horas ??
Problem with a burning Oil solved?
Yes.
how match cost to change stem seals?
New seals are about 30 EUR, new VANOS screws are 10 EUR and the timing kit is 40 EUR. So less than 100 EUR (other required tools like air hose and spring compressor not included) if you do it yourself, but probably a lot more if you go to independent mechanic and much much more if you go to the dealer or certified shop. I don't have any official numbers so you will have to get a quote.
One of the best videos on youtube.
I have an N42 that consumes 1/2 liter of oil every 1000kms. No blue smoke at all.
My problem is the rough idle. No error codes.
When I disconnet the eccentric shaft sensor, the idle is smoother but not perfect.
This points me to:
- coked inlet valves
- worn eccentric shaft
- worn VANOS units
Any idea on this?
Tnx! Have you checked for vacuum leaks? They usually cause rough idle and increased consumption. Check valvetronic connector flange, VANOS solenoid o-rings, CCV hoses, etc for leaks.
Regarding oil consumption, its usualy the valve stem seals or a problem with CCV system. Bad valve stem seals symptoms are for example blue smoke after idling the engine. Check tailpipe for thick black residue like you get in a chimney.
@@BimmerZen
Ccv and its hoses have been replaced recently. No blue smoke or residu in tailpipe.
All the seals have been replaced.
If i drive a long time on highway, LTFT B1= 1.8 & LTFT B2= 0.8
but if I do only city driving and a lot of idling:
LTFT B1=4 & LTFT B1=3.9
which means the engine at idle is running a bit lean and valve lift during idle is too low to keep engine running smoothly.
Using INPA, usually cylinder 4 is out of range ( 3) # -2 - - 2
You should definitely do a video on n42 valvetronic.
The rough idle
@@hanynowsky sorry for late reply, ill do some research and get back to you. I am also reading some minor fuel trim adjustments on my car so i will get in to it soon.
Ciao anche io ho lo stesso motore
2 domande per favore
quanti km ha il tuo motore nel video?
e quanto olio consumava prima con i paraoli delle valvole vecchie e dopo con quelle nuove?
Grazie.
185.000km
Before: aprox. > 0.6l / 1.000km
After: aprox. < 0.5 l / 10.000 km
Io invece 600gr per 600km
268.000km totali
usando olio 5W30
Quindi mi confermi che con i paraoli nuovi cambia tutto
Ovviamente non ho perdite e tutto il resto e' ok
@@vincenzotrotto4344 If you have no oil leaks and your CCV is working OK, then bad valve stem seals are most probably the cause of high oil consumption on N42/N46 engines.
Se non si verificano perdite di olio e il CCV funziona correttamente, le guarnizioni degli steli delle valvole difettose sono probabilmente la causa dell'elevato consumo di olio sui motori N42 / N46.
@@BimmerZen infatti.....
ti ringrazio sei forte?
Hi. Please tell me the height of the device that pushes the valve.
What dimension do you need exactly?
@@BimmerZen Duralumin round billet (23:17).
Hi bimmer zen I have an engine like this but I have alot of wite smoke coming from extthout what should I change ?
Do you drive short distances during cold days? Check for yellow mayonnaise on the oil cap, around the oil fill hole inside the engine and on your oil level dipstick. It looks like this: ua-cam.com/video/4U-4kKXzfwc/v-deo.html
You might have clogged or faulty CCV.
@@BimmerZen oh thank you bro I live in Suriname caribean side we have hot wheater can you send the link of ccv please for me
@@persaudjonathan7912 does your smoke look like this: ua-cam.com/video/MMTk62EILM4/v-deo.html ?
@@persaudjonathan7912 What is your car model and year? For example: E46 316i 6/2001 115hp
@@BimmerZen yeah like this when I ref up the engine
Ciao ho intenzione di fare questo lavoro tu hai per caso i valori di serraggio di tutto quello che ce da smontare e rimontare? Grazie in anticipo
I don't have all the values, but you can get most of the specified torque values in service manual: www.newtis.info/. Just create a free account and you can see all the procedures and specification for you car.
Most important ones are:
Nuts on valvetronic: 10 Nm,
Oil line banjo bolt: 10 Nm,
Nuts on bearing shells: 10 Nm,
Valve cover bolts: 10 Nm,
VANOS bolts: 20 Nm + 90 deg + 90deg
Chain tensioner: 65 Nm
@@BimmerZen
Grazie infinite👍
do you solve the problem with oil consumption
Yes, engine no longer consumes oil. It's been 3 months and 2000 km since seals change and the oil is still at the max level. I've also put 5w-30 oil grade instead of 5w-40 so it looks like it's fixed. There is also no more blue smoke from exhaust...
@@BimmerZen hey how you are doing , my 316ti burns abouth 3 liters per 1000 km , do you think piston rings are also out ? Thanks in advance , pozdrav iz Crne Gore 🤠
@@darkmagician2730 i think you should start with replacing the CCV and then valve stem seals. I've never heard of bad piston rings on these engines but i guess it's possible. Pozdrav!
@@BimmerZen thank you, i think there is no ccv because there is not a 1 leak
@@darkmagician2730 CCV is a closed loop system. If diafragm is torn or cyclone is cloged, it can result in more oil burning. You would need to have a really masive oil leak to lose 3l of oil per 1000km
Why do you need to put compress air into the cylinder?
Nvm, it's to push the valves up so it doesn't drop into the engine
@@damiann4734 correctomundo:)
@@BimmerZen thank you for the response! I really like your videos! Can you tell me which brand you used for the seals? I am concerned that the BMW's seals will just leak again after 100,000 km. Do you have any recommendations and places to get them?
@@damiann4734 i use Elring, its oem. New seals wont go bad if you do oil changes on every 10-15k kilometers OR 1 year and use correct grade of oil (Longlife 04).
@@BimmerZen não é o longlife 01 ?
hei, does this work on n52?
The process is simmilar, but you will need to check out the n52 procedure to do the job.
@@BimmerZen i see, i was wondering about the tool to compress the spring if its the same?
@@buksy100 nope, this tool only works for the n42/n46
Not easy aye
Price?
It depends on what you mean... Minimal cost of parts is about 10 EUR for new VANOS bolts, and 25 EUR for new valve stem seals. Locking tools are about 45 EUR and N42/N46 valve spring compressor tool is about 30 EUR if you order it from me.
Optional replacement is chain tensioner, valve cover gasket, vacuum pump seals, valvetronic flange gasket, spark plug cylinders o-rings, ...
Then you have about 4-8 hours of work - It depends on the skill level and tools used.
Prices of work vary a lot between countries and skill level. I wouldn't trust this work to a regular car mechanic unless he or she is a BMW specialist and/or has experience doing this job. For example: first time I did this job I accidentally broke bottom part of the chain guide while rotating the crankshaft without keeping the chain taught! Of course I didn't realize this until the chain jumped one tooth which caused mysterious long crank when engine was cold and poor low end power. After a lot of diagnosing and throwing new parts at the problem I finally realized that the chain jumped one tooth!! I then had to replace the chain and chain rail which is a real PITA on these engines:)
Video here: ua-cam.com/video/Pi9fWWNf0gA/v-deo.html
@@BimmerZen :)
All that time and making tools,
Just pull the head and pay the £35 for a new Gasket. It's 30 minutes to change seals and lap the valves back in.
Sure, If you need to replace the head gasket and want to lap the valves... But if you only need to replace the stem seals, then removing the whole head is not a good idea. You have to remove the intake and exhaust headers which is a real PITA. Then you have to clean both surfaces, install new gasket and replace the bolts. I also made a new 3D printed compressor that makes this job faster and easier: ua-cam.com/video/BMk7dwtj_i0/v-deo.html
Guess my car is going by the mechanic, too many intricacies..........I’m fucked!
Are you sure you need the stem seals replacement on your engine? Make sure the CCV and oil leaks are not the cause of your oil consumption... Good luck anyway.
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The worst car I ever owned.