That looks like a great tool. Pro tip for anyone interested. On light panel not fixed to the car. Clamp something heavy on it the panel just a pile of clamps or bit of heavy metal. I have a large pry spoon that I clamp on. This helps stop the panels jumping and you need less of a pull on the hammer. Hope this helps someone. Great work Billy. And very nice machine thanks for showing us. Bob.
I think the pointed end of the ground will weld itself to the panel and you back the brass nut down to the panel to keep it from falling off . When your done loosen the nut and wiggle the ground off
I can see that would be a lot better than my stinger stud gun. Many years ago a friend who also did bodywork had a machine that was similar to this. It was a black box that sat upright with rollers on the back so that you could easy roll it to your work spot. It had a long pointed lead with a trigger for one hand, and that lead slipped through a forked pulling lever to put against the car and pull with the other hand. He payed a fortune for it but it was really nice, this reminds me of it but much more affordable!
Billy I built one a couple years ago. I don't know if the G90 was even out on the market then? The price on this unit is right! Good value. Good video.. Phillip Hall
@@OldBondoBilly I did his youtube channel is Fix 206. He also built his own frame pulling machine and showed how he did it step by step all the way down to the measurements. He is a very resourceful fellow that is like you, always willing to help and answer questions. Let me add Billy as far as the dent puller. (or spotter as he calls it) If I had it to do over again I would simply buy the G-90 because I had to gather the components necessary to put one together, including the accessory pull tools, ground cable, positive cable, housing etc . I really think it would be cheaper (if we include our time) to simply buy the G-90, and I have no dog in the G-90 hunt. Phillip Hall
Adding: Fix 206 has two videos on this, one is an updated version, here is the original simple method. ua-cam.com/video/P9qc0rYgw28/v-deo.html Phillip Hall
A tip for you Bondo, sometimes if you pull it too high and make a nipple on the metal, just put the tip back on that spot and tap the trigger, it'll heat that nipple back in nicely, takes a few practice goes but can make it easier than tapping a high spot back down and sometimes causing the 'oil can' effect👍
Billy, I just bought a 90E after watching your video. Seems it doesn't get hot enough to work well, always have to set it to "High" and only get a few whacks and it pops off. working on a 78 Dodge Ramcharger -maybe its thicker metal?? Using a 12/2 extension cord about 25 ft. long.... any ideas? Thanks,
@@Mr.Avuncular I've heard nothing but good things about these units... I built my own before I knew these were available. I did see the snap-on unit but it was over a thousand dollars. I used 3 microwave transformers among other things when I made mine.. Phillip Hall
Just wondering, since the fender is already off the vehicle, why are you not using a hammer and dolly to straighten it when you have access to the back of it?
@CarsNfish Another expert presuming to surpass my 5 decades of dent fixin’. The reason I replied to the first hammer & dolly dummy that I was using the dent puller “because I’m not stupid” was because there’s 4 inches of inner bracing right behind where I’m pulling. You kids pipe down and let yer daddy take care of business 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Mine is defective doesn't really work with that slide hammer attachment it doesn't even stick even at high,but maybe I'm using to long and to thin of an extension cord.
A solid ground is an absolute necessity also. I’ll move my fenders closer to the outlet and plug it in without the cord and see if that makes much difference.😉😉
Also the metal being worked on needs to be near spotless and raw, a lot of later panels have a very thing galvanised coating on them and it renders those dent puller useless, once you clean off that gal, the puller can be a bugger to get back off sometimes 🙂👍
@@DonaldGMyers I'm not trying to overly reply, but I can see that. For older thicker metal, the old school tried and tested stud gun might be the best option of the two? Phillip Hall
GD90E Dent Puller
s.vevor.com/bfQqE0
Use code ‘SAVEMORE5’
That looks like a great tool. Pro tip for anyone interested. On light panel not fixed to the car. Clamp something heavy on it the panel just a pile of clamps or bit of heavy metal. I have a large pry spoon that I clamp on. This helps stop the panels jumping and you need less of a pull on the hammer. Hope this helps someone.
Great work Billy. And very nice machine thanks for showing us. Bob.
I think the pointed end of the ground will weld itself to the panel and you back the brass nut down to the panel to keep it from falling off . When your done loosen the nut and wiggle the ground off
That's a pretty neat machine Billy.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thanks Billy, the GD90E looks like it's quite capable and well made. Me wants this device.
Cool machine Billy! Never knew there was such a thing! Impressive!👍
I am definitely gonna have to get one of these, looks so much better than a traditional dent puller
That's a keeper Fur sure.
I can see that would be a lot better than my stinger stud gun. Many years ago a friend who also did bodywork had a machine that was similar to this. It was a black box that sat upright with rollers on the back so that you could easy roll it to your work spot. It had a long pointed lead with a trigger for one hand, and that lead slipped through a forked pulling lever to put against the car and pull with the other hand. He payed a fortune for it but it was really nice, this reminds me of it but much more affordable!
So far so good, thanks for the demo
So that's the new tool. Very nice. It looks faster than the porcupine style puller.
It sure is!😉😉
I got this machine on my Amazon list! Vevor seems to be a decent brand! I don't need EVERYTHING snap OFF!! Billy 4 prez
Pretty sweet! Had thought about buying a vevor ac/dc mig that would do aluminum. Ended up buying a hitbox 200 tig with pulse
YesWelder sent me their flagship pulse tig. It’ll be fun to learn how to use it😉😉
@@OldBondoBilly buy argon bottle cuz mix co2 will make u a q-tip 👑
Billy I built one a couple years ago. I don't know if the G90 was even out on the market then? The price on this unit is right! Good value. Good video..
Phillip Hall
Hey Phillip. Did you give me the link to that guy building one from microwaves?
@@OldBondoBilly
I did his youtube channel is Fix 206. He also built his own frame pulling machine and showed how he did it step by step all the way down to the measurements. He is a very resourceful fellow that is like you, always willing to help and answer questions.
Let me add Billy as far as the dent puller. (or spotter as he calls it) If I had it to do over again I would simply buy the G-90 because I had to gather the components necessary to put one together, including the accessory pull tools, ground cable, positive cable, housing etc . I really think it would be cheaper (if we include our time) to simply buy the G-90, and I have no dog in the G-90 hunt.
Phillip Hall
Adding: Fix 206 has two videos on this, one is an updated version, here is the original simple method. ua-cam.com/video/P9qc0rYgw28/v-deo.html
Phillip Hall
A tip for you Bondo, sometimes if you pull it too high and make a nipple on the metal, just put the tip back on that spot and tap the trigger, it'll heat that nipple back in nicely, takes a few practice goes but can make it easier than tapping a high spot back down and sometimes causing the 'oil can' effect👍
👍👍
So is the New VEVOR Stud Welder/Dent Puller your new ... like thingy ?
Billy, I just bought a 90E after watching your video. Seems it doesn't get hot enough to work well, always have to set it to "High" and only get a few whacks and it pops off. working on a 78 Dodge Ramcharger -maybe its thicker metal?? Using a 12/2 extension cord about 25 ft. long.... any ideas? Thanks,
I set it on “2” and “HI” for old car sheet metal. I clamp the ground cable end to the panel with vice grips to get a solid ground.
Thanks, Billy. Is your model the same as mine? Mine says Spot 90E, yours looks like G or GD90E? Same machine?? Love your video's!
@dmiddles Mine is GD90E, but yours should function the same
You could use that suction cup for your like thingy😂😂. Thank you for the video Billy
Billy needs protection with all of us touching his like thingy on a daily basis 😂
@@dumblegorethefirst3160 😅🤣
Amazing machine and shop class🎙️🕺🏻💪🏻
Pretty smooth!
Curious to see how they hold up over time...lots of ways to get the job done!
It appears to be well-made😊
@@OldBondoBilly time will tell ....I hope it does!
@@Mr.Avuncular
I've heard nothing but good things about these units... I built my own before I knew these were available. I did see the snap-on unit but it was over a thousand dollars. I used 3 microwave transformers among other things when I made mine..
Phillip Hall
@@PhillipHall01 I've used a few different ones and each has it's advantages. It appears they've put some thought into the build
@@Mr.Avuncular
Maybe it will hold up for Billy. I hope it does too!
Hi Billy
Can you test spot welding with the vevor and fo a video.
Thanks
Terry
I did
Nice little machine 👍 👍
Do they have the prybar like the maxi by dentfix? That would make it way faster and more accuracy. It just takes a bit to get used to it.
That DC welding is a lot stouter than AC welding. I think the prybar would pull it off too easy.
@@OldBondoBilly ahhhhh, that explains why I've not seen the lever like maxi station.
That's cool as hell
Just wondering, since the fender is already off the vehicle, why are you not using a hammer and dolly to straighten it when you have access to the back of it?
Because I’m not stupid
@@OldBondoBilly
5:30 stupid is what stupid done do did
yupp would be alot faster but hey for the sake of the video its showing how to use the product not how to do body work
@CarsNfish Another expert presuming to surpass my 5 decades of dent fixin’. The reason I replied to the first hammer & dolly dummy that I was using the dent puller “because I’m not stupid” was because there’s 4 inches of inner bracing right behind where I’m pulling. You kids pipe down and let yer daddy take care of business 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
here in Appalachia we call that slide hammer a ... knocker
That’s the trade name of the Morgan 12 pound slide hammer😉😉
Oh Billy ... you're such a Stud ... Puller ...
that stud welder will get dusty now lol i never use mine anymore
Mine is defective doesn't really work with that slide hammer attachment it doesn't even stick even at high,but maybe I'm using to long and to thin of an extension cord.
A solid ground is an absolute necessity also. I’ll move my fenders closer to the outlet and plug it in without the cord and see if that makes much difference.😉😉
Also the metal being worked on needs to be near spotless and raw, a lot of later panels have a very thing galvanised coating on them and it renders those dent puller useless, once you clean off that gal, the puller can be a bugger to get back off sometimes 🙂👍
@@dcf476
Just give it a good twist back and forth, it will come off pretty easy that way.
Phillip Hall
I have this exact same unit and have found it works great on thin (newer) metal but not so much on thicker (68 mustang) fenders
@@DonaldGMyers
I'm not trying to overly reply, but I can see that. For older thicker metal, the old school tried and tested stud gun might be the best option of the two?
Phillip Hall
When you , Love it , it not like a job...
I need one of those
Love your , Videos, Ben there and done it 😢
VEVOR ... Los Vegas ... I mean Oklahoma
Sweet
Leftenant
Nice
A new toy😅😅😅
👍🏻👍🏻🖖🏻
👍👍
Miller is a better tool.....
Do a video
I did several