Nice video but I’ll be honest with thumb grips that’s a problem of Fuji and Sony making horrendously non-ergonomic cameras. Canon and Sony pro-level cameras equivalent to Sony and Fuji’s best have phenomenal body grip. Never had a need for a thumb grip on the other two brands but literally CANNOT use a Fuji camera without one.
Actually surprised that this video isn't from a 500k+ subs channel, it's so well edited and the info are super useful! I finally have a few ideas as to what to get for my photography obsessed friend!
Thanks! I actaully had a few brands reach out already and I had to tell them I cant be milking my audience. So dont worry, We re still on the same team 🤪 I only want to endorse products I believe in!
Its the Ulanzi for sony a7rv/a7siii/a7iv! They have 2 variations. The Arca swiss one, and another versions thats supports their Falcam quick release system too
The focal length will not change with extension tubes, only the MOD Minimum Object Distance. You need to get nearer to the object which therefor will be shown larger. Just adding numbers is too simple and wrong. But they are convenient to have in the bag if for some reason you want to take a macro shot without having a macro lens at hand. And they are much cheaper 🙂. If a filter is stuck on the the lens thread it won't bend by gripping it with the hands. These filter wrenches are OK if only a bit of force is needed but there are easy options to apply if it really stucks. Adhesive tapes might work wonder.
Not correct. Lenses focal lengths are determined by the point of convergence in respect to the sensor. By using an extension tube you are actively pushing the POC further away from the sensor. If you used a 50mm macro lens and compare it to a 35mm with a 15mm tube the lens would look nearly identical in terms of compression. The 35mm with an extension tube will of course now be throwing a larger image circle and thus loose light. So your transmission will lower but overall will look similar to the 50mm macro. If you disagree search "do extension tubes change focal length" There are many explanations and visual diagrams explaining how this works! Sorry I didnt include any Visuals in this video
@anhContent I did search. There are lots of formulas for calculating the effective focal length of a lens and extensions tube system. But none of them simply adds the values. More important is the magnification. And here it is even more complicated. A macro lens can be set to a much higher magnification/less distance than a normal lens. So you won't get the same effect by taken a standard lens and adding extension tubes. I did a test. A 100mm Macro (1:1) lens vs. a Zoom lens set to 70mm and at nearest distance with a 30mm extension tube. The Macro showed about double the magnification. So even if you get a longer focal system of the whole system it still won't get you so much magnification. I did a test with the 100mm Macro and 30mm extension tube. The magnification at the same lens distance is in the range of x1.13 . But with min. distance it is x2.0
Yes fair enough, magnification ratio will not be the same, but magnification is determined by the how close the object to the lens too the focal length. Magnification ratio is determined by the reproduction ability of the lens (or minimum focusing distance). Most macro lenses will have a (1:1) some from laowa can do 2:1. Some specialty macros can do 10:1 or more. Extension tube may add maybe.05-.2 magnification per tube. Obviously a dedicated macro lens will have better magnification. But if you set both lenses at the same distance from the object regardless of minimum focusing distance it will look similar. If you stacked enough tubes you could get 1:1 or even more. You could even stack tubes on a macro lens... Regardless of that. If you measure the distance from the sensor to the object and kept it the same for the macro shot and the extension tube shot. They will like pretty close. Obviously the light transmission, lens characteristics and such will be different but overall will be close.
If a camera has overheating issues in 4K-HiRes, than it has either a design failure or a misleading product description. If a camera is advertized with 4 K Hires Video it has to perform constantly under usual environmental conditions! (its not only a Sony issue!). If the camera is designed properly there can't be any need for a cooling fan.
I agree and disagree, the counter argument can definitely be made. If manufacturers limited their cameras to 1080p I can see way more people being upset about that than being limited to shooting 4k for 15-20 minutes. For 95% of situations and users probably won't be shooting that long or in much smaller bursts anyway. So many people would probably never have this issue. As a user of a7siii I have never actually had an overheating issue with that camera so I know smaller bodies can handle the heat dissipation. However I also know the a7siii has a special and more complicated heatsync system. Also if smaller cameras had active cooling built in they no longer would be weather sealed and probably have much more complaints abouts water related damages. So it definitely depends on the use case and if you want to sacrifice a bunch of other functionality or pay more in general
@@CongThanhContent So the correct product description is product A can perform at least x min of continous 4K-Hires recording under This (unrealistic) environmental conditions, otherwise of cpurse much worth results e.g. under realistic environmental conditions and not in a climate controlled chamber) . Its the same problem with Burst Rates x pictures/second until Buffer is full (what occurs at y pictures), than z pictures/second continous shooting (under an card with that (not available specifications). But you get only shortened and optimized values which usually not apply to the real world scenario.
Honestly that would be a huge help if they did do that. Wouldnt have to watch 2-3 review videos to really figure out the ins and outs of the new cameras! If you look at cinema grade cameras, most of them will have active cooling. And non of them will have a weather sealing ratings. Unless they're huge, expensive, and have a passive cooling solution. Most of these consumer/prosumer level cameras are targeting the 99% use case. Losing weathersealing just for cooling would be a big trade off for most. If you need the long record time you probably should get a video focused camera. And not a hybrid camera. Also it was just a few years ago, when hybrid camera couldn't even record past 29 minutes due camera registrations. Which would give most cameras enough time to dissipate heat between takes and battery changes. Photos though is a pretty short bar for required memory card speeds though. Unless your using something like a 40+ MP sensor or 15+fps, any v30 card should be more than enough head room for that. And those pretty standard and relatively cheap imo (128gb cards for about $30). In comparison to CFE a/b, v90 cards or straight up SSDs anyway. Also if you're maxing out your camera buffer consistently it's definitely time to upgrade your camera or buy a high fps camera with a larger buffer. Most modern cameras should be able support Atleast 3-5 seconds of their supported fps. Pretty rare occasions to need more than that regularly. I will say though it does knock me off my rocker that Sony caps their Intraframe codecs to be used only with CFEA cards or v90 cards at a minimum. Even thought I'm trying to only record 4k 24p. And a v60 card would be more than sufficient for that!
@@CongThanhContent If you use a 36 Mpix Camera your burst rates have to rely on the speed and size of the internal buffer, even a V30 card is way to slow to keep the Burst rate, even with 20 Mpix the moment your buffer is used up will cause your burst rate to dip to ridiculous values. with 20 Mpix you can probably remain at a rate of 10 pictures, with a 36 Mpix propably around 3-5 Pictures (taking in RAW). with the CFEA or V90 you have probably higher burst rates. But even than its NAND memeory wihich degrades with EVERY Write process, and the endurance of that (expensive) cards has to be proven, so i would always favour a BIG DRAM cache (as DRAM does not degrade and is way faster.
If you're using a 36mp camera chances it's an a7riii/ii or a d800. These were not cameras that were designed to be used in constant photo burst situation. And these cameras only had an 4-10 fps at the max. I actually used to own two a7rii. Which still had about a 30 frame buffer. I may be wrong about this and I'm not a professional technician. But from my understanding of cameras, Chances are when your internal buffer starts failing the camera has had significant usage. Usually cameras are design for the shutter to fail before anything else. Not considering any external damages from wear, water, etc. The internal buffer memory should last longer than the camera. However if your buffer storage did fail. It's more likely the camera would still work. The photos that passed though the fail Nand cells would just create corrupted files that would most likely just come out as a black photos. This would be pretty rare though. DRAM though would also be quite overkill. It would be faster yes, but DRAM takes more space and requires a control board and cooling. Also on a photo camera it wouldn't really be necessary. Maybe on newer professional grade cameras like the a9iii or a1ii. That are cameras that really pushing the boundaries. But chances you're using insanely fast and high capacity cards cause we're talking terabytes worth after an few minutes of shooting. Video cameras would also would not require this because the footage must be offloaded as fast as it is entered, if there was a buffer intermediate step in video transfer than corruption and errors would be way more likely.
Nice video but I’ll be honest with thumb grips that’s a problem of Fuji and Sony making horrendously non-ergonomic cameras. Canon and Sony pro-level cameras equivalent to Sony and Fuji’s best have phenomenal body grip. Never had a need for a thumb grip on the other two brands but literally CANNOT use a Fuji camera without one.
Actually surprised that this video isn't from a 500k+ subs channel, it's so well edited and the info are super useful! I finally have a few ideas as to what to get for my photography obsessed friend!
Thank you so much! Hopefully one day I'll make it there!!
Keep up the great work, I think your subs will go up quickly. I never thought about putting silicone on the filter threads.
Thanks! And it's Silicon grease! Silicone will make it permanently installed 😂
@@CongThanhContent typo but good point 🤣
Excellent. Wonder why no one made this kind of videos.
Glad you liked it! More too come!
👍🏾👏🏾🙌🏾💪🏾Bro, I love you for this. Thank you. Phelix
Appreciate it brother!
subbed in 500 subscribers ...i think you ll get big bro, just please, please don't be that guy with 20 ads in the video :P
Thanks! I actaully had a few brands reach out already and I had to tell them I cant be milking my audience. So dont worry, We re still on the same team 🤪 I only want to endorse products I believe in!
@@CongThanhContent great to hear that , wish you all the best, we need more like that :)
Which rotatable Collar plate are you using? I have the Sony a7RV. Is it the half plate?
Its the Ulanzi for sony a7rv/a7siii/a7iv! They have 2 variations. The Arca swiss one, and another versions thats supports their Falcam quick release system too
The focal length will not change with extension tubes, only the MOD Minimum Object Distance. You need to get nearer to the object which therefor will be shown larger. Just adding numbers is too simple and wrong. But they are convenient to have in the bag if for some reason you want to take a macro shot without having a macro lens at hand. And they are much cheaper 🙂.
If a filter is stuck on the the lens thread it won't bend by gripping it with the hands. These filter wrenches are OK if only a bit of force is needed but there are easy options to apply if it really stucks. Adhesive tapes might work wonder.
Not correct. Lenses focal lengths are determined by the point of convergence in respect to the sensor. By using an extension tube you are actively pushing the POC further away from the sensor. If you used a 50mm macro lens and compare it to a 35mm with a 15mm tube the lens would look nearly identical in terms of compression. The 35mm with an extension tube will of course now be throwing a larger image circle and thus loose light. So your transmission will lower but overall will look similar to the 50mm macro.
If you disagree search "do extension tubes change focal length" There are many explanations and visual diagrams explaining how this works! Sorry I didnt include any Visuals in this video
@anhContent I did search. There are lots of formulas for calculating the effective focal length of a lens and extensions tube system. But none of them simply adds the values. More important is the magnification. And here it is even more complicated. A macro lens can be set to a much higher magnification/less distance than a normal lens. So you won't get the same effect by taken a standard lens and adding extension tubes.
I did a test. A 100mm Macro (1:1) lens vs. a Zoom lens set to 70mm and at nearest distance with a 30mm extension tube. The Macro showed about double the magnification. So even if you get a longer focal system of the whole system it still won't get you so much magnification.
I did a test with the 100mm Macro and 30mm extension tube. The magnification at the same lens distance is in the range of x1.13 . But with min. distance it is x2.0
Yes fair enough, magnification ratio will not be the same, but magnification is determined by the how close the object to the lens too the focal length. Magnification ratio is determined by the reproduction ability of the lens (or minimum focusing distance). Most macro lenses will have a (1:1) some from laowa can do 2:1. Some specialty macros can do 10:1 or more. Extension tube may add maybe.05-.2 magnification per tube. Obviously a dedicated macro lens will have better magnification. But if you set both lenses at the same distance from the object regardless of minimum focusing distance it will look similar. If you stacked enough tubes you could get 1:1 or even more. You could even stack tubes on a macro lens... Regardless of that. If you measure the distance from the sensor to the object and kept it the same for the macro shot and the extension tube shot. They will like pretty close. Obviously the light transmission, lens characteristics and such will be different but overall will be close.
If a camera has overheating issues in 4K-HiRes, than it has either a design failure or a misleading product description.
If a camera is advertized with 4 K Hires Video it has to perform constantly under usual environmental conditions! (its not only a Sony issue!).
If the camera is designed properly there can't be any need for a cooling fan.
I agree and disagree, the counter argument can definitely be made. If manufacturers limited their cameras to 1080p I can see way more people being upset about that than being limited to shooting 4k for 15-20 minutes. For 95% of situations and users probably won't be shooting that long or in much smaller bursts anyway. So many people would probably never have this issue. As a user of a7siii I have never actually had an overheating issue with that camera so I know smaller bodies can handle the heat dissipation. However I also know the a7siii has a special and more complicated heatsync system. Also if smaller cameras had active cooling built in they no longer would be weather sealed and probably have much more complaints abouts water related damages. So it definitely depends on the use case and if you want to sacrifice a bunch of other functionality or pay more in general
@@CongThanhContent So the correct product description is product A can perform at least x min of continous 4K-Hires recording under This (unrealistic) environmental conditions, otherwise of cpurse much worth results e.g. under realistic environmental conditions and not in a climate controlled chamber) . Its the same problem with Burst Rates x pictures/second until Buffer is full (what occurs at y pictures), than z pictures/second continous shooting (under an card with that (not available specifications). But you get only shortened and optimized values which usually not apply to the real world scenario.
Honestly that would be a huge help if they did do that. Wouldnt have to watch 2-3 review videos to really figure out the ins and outs of the new cameras!
If you look at cinema grade cameras, most of them will have active cooling. And non of them will have a weather sealing ratings. Unless they're huge, expensive, and have a passive cooling solution. Most of these consumer/prosumer level cameras are targeting the 99% use case. Losing weathersealing just for cooling would be a big trade off for most. If you need the long record time you probably should get a video focused camera. And not a hybrid camera. Also it was just a few years ago, when hybrid camera couldn't even record past 29 minutes due camera registrations. Which would give most cameras enough time to dissipate heat between takes and battery changes.
Photos though is a pretty short bar for required memory card speeds though. Unless your using something like a 40+ MP sensor or 15+fps, any v30 card should be more than enough head room for that. And those pretty standard and relatively cheap imo (128gb cards for about $30). In comparison to CFE a/b, v90 cards or straight up SSDs anyway.
Also if you're maxing out your camera buffer consistently it's definitely time to upgrade your camera or buy a high fps camera with a larger buffer. Most modern cameras should be able support Atleast 3-5 seconds of their supported fps. Pretty rare occasions to need more than that regularly.
I will say though it does knock me off my rocker that Sony caps their Intraframe codecs to be used only with CFEA cards or v90 cards at a minimum. Even thought I'm trying to only record 4k 24p. And a v60 card would be more than sufficient for that!
@@CongThanhContent If you use a 36 Mpix Camera your burst rates have to rely on the speed and size of the internal buffer, even a V30 card is way to slow to keep the Burst rate, even with 20 Mpix the moment your buffer is used up will cause your burst rate to dip to ridiculous values. with 20 Mpix you can probably remain at a rate of 10 pictures, with a 36 Mpix propably around 3-5 Pictures (taking in RAW). with the CFEA or V90 you have probably higher burst rates. But even than its NAND memeory wihich degrades with EVERY Write process, and the endurance of that (expensive) cards has to be proven, so i would always favour a BIG DRAM cache (as DRAM does not degrade and is way faster.
If you're using a 36mp camera chances it's an a7riii/ii or a d800. These were not cameras that were designed to be used in constant photo burst situation. And these cameras only had an 4-10 fps at the max. I actually used to own two a7rii. Which still had about a 30 frame buffer.
I may be wrong about this and I'm not a professional technician. But from my understanding of cameras, Chances are when your internal buffer starts failing the camera has had significant usage. Usually cameras are design for the shutter to fail before anything else. Not considering any external damages from wear, water, etc. The internal buffer memory should last longer than the camera. However if your buffer storage did fail. It's more likely the camera would still work. The photos that passed though the fail Nand cells would just create corrupted files that would most likely just come out as a black photos. This would be pretty rare though.
DRAM though would also be quite overkill. It would be faster yes, but DRAM takes more space and requires a control board and cooling. Also on a photo camera it wouldn't really be necessary. Maybe on newer professional grade cameras like the a9iii or a1ii. That are cameras that really pushing the boundaries. But chances you're using insanely fast and high capacity cards cause we're talking terabytes worth after an few minutes of shooting.
Video cameras would also would not require this because the footage must be offloaded as fast as it is entered, if there was a buffer intermediate step in video transfer than corruption and errors would be way more likely.