A few things that I think are important to mention: First, the advantages of adding such a power supply to a digital system are: You can run 14.5 volts for 1/32 cars and 18 volts for the 1/24. so cars will run at proper speed at their native voltages. The second advantage of the power supply is that it provides more 10 amp compared the Carrera supply that provides less than 3 Amps. The additional amperage allows running more 1/24 cars that the 4 maximum possible with the stock supply. So so can have 6 1/24 drivers and even a couple of autonomous cars with 10 Amps. If you were to run 18 Volts at all times, you could reduce the speed to the 1/32 cars to manage level through the CU panel of with race control software ,but the would need to be done for all 1/32 cars. This can be accomplished for all cars at once by placing all 1/32 cars on track and setting speed limit. Cars not speed limited might be too fast to drive, but probably not damaged except by crashing. The advantage of this approach is that you can run either or both car scales at any time without changing power supply or even race the two scales. The downside of an adjustable power supply is that it IS possible to damage Carrera electronics, especially the CU and switches with improper use. Adjustment should NEVER we set lower than 12.5 volts or higher than 18 volts! It is tempting to go slower when newcomers are struggling to stay on track or higher to see how fast cars can go, but do NOT allow this. For this reason, especially if kids are present, power supply should not be accessible to them. In addition to the possibility of electronics failing with low or high voltages, bear in mind that switches placed at some distance from power taps already get less voltage than at the meter and they can fail to actuate fully if voltage at their location falls below 12 volts. If a flipper opens slowly or stops mid-slot the switch can be damaged. This is why power taps are important on large tracks and why they should be place near all switches. The problem is worse at any voltage below the standard 14.5. At Nomad Raceways and Central Arkansas Slot Racers Club we have used similar power supplies for many years and we DO recommend them, but is is important to know these things. Ideally, it would be best have a 10 amp power supply that adjusts only between 14 and 18 volts, but this is not a range commonly used in other fields, so we have never found one. Thanks for you videos I hope to visit your track sometime and y'all are welcome to our club track if you are ever near Little Rock Arkansas.
Jim! This is fantastic information for us beginners in the hobby. So much detail to fully understand the advantages and the risks of moving to an Adjustable Power Supply. I appreciate your channel and your track is amazing! If I ever find myself near Little Rock, you can bet I will stop in and you can show us around the track! Always welcome here at Two Lines!
@@twolinesslotcars One other thing that often comes up with similar adjustable power supplies: The Amperage meter only shows how much current is being used and so is normally at zero when cars are not running. If you have powered accessories, a small number may appear when cars are not running. When cars are running, AMp readings will fluctuate. Voltage readings should not fluctuate. Electric motors draw the most current when starting up or accelerating, so maximum amp draw will be at a start when all cars accelerate at full throttle. It is useful to note this highest reading. The highest reading should be well under the maximum rating of the power supply, like 9 Amps with a 10 amp supply. If power supply can't keep up with demand, cars will run inconsistently and motors will be unhappy. Also, as amperage goes up voltage may fall leading to the problems described above. A 10 amp power supply is more than adequate for a Carrera Digital system. 5 amps can suffice even with Six 1/24 cars. With an OmniSlotBox you can run more powerful and/or less efficient motors and then 10 amps or more is recommended. We have seen amp reading s as high at 6 amps for a single car! Our grand prix track has 40 amps (20 per lane) and the 8 lane commercial track at Batesville has 90 amps per lane! No digital system can handle high amp motors, but they are common in analog cars.
Great step by step for those of us cautious about frying the digital components. I have both the 1/32 and 1/24 power supplies and swap for the scale. I may be bold enough to change over to the variable supply I use for the tire truer. Love your channel!
Steve, thanks. I am happy you are enjoying the channel. having both power supplies makes it really easy, just plug and unplug... that is an advantage.. but I think the real advantage comes from being able to run 6 -1/24 scale cars instead of 4. Yes, hopefully a tire truer is in my future as well.
I have a 1/25 scale Austin-Healy on a Carrera 1/32 scale Ford Torino on my Carrera 1/24 track. Goes very fast, and doesn't mind the 16 volt power supply. Great fun. I don't run it extended time periods.
Take a ride over to your local Harbor Freight and pick up "self adjusting wire strippers" --- they are a LIFE SAVER of time and value! All the best Marty!
Marty it's been fun watching your progression in the hobby... your path has been very similar to mine. Now that you have the adjustable power supply, it's time to pull the magnets out of your cars and turn the volts down to 12....🏎🏎
That unboxing knife is really sharp. It opened the box before you cut it 🤯😉. Good video! I’m on the std 1/24 adapter from Carrera. But I think I’m going to get this power supply so my kids can race the Mario en yoshi cars (and not my expensive 1/24 cars 😅)
Movie Magic! 😂 I had cut 99% of the tape to save time and it popped open on me 🤦🏻♂️ I kept it in because I thought it was funny. Thanks for calling me out on it Erik! 😂
Erik, how does the power supply help you run the Mario and Yoshi cars? Are they digitally chipped 1/32? I'm asking because I'm considering upgrading my Evolution track to Digital and trying to map my path with Marty's tips as well as the rest of the community. I too would like to let my kids drive kids car vs my nicer models.
@@dortiz1968 Hi Daniel, the Mario and yoshi cars are 1/32 scale and run on a different voltage then for example the 1/24 scale cars. You can get another Carrera 1/32 scale power supply and switch that with the 1/24 scale power supply. Or… you can get one power supply like Marty here and just turn a knob and set the correct voltage. The 1/32 scale Mario cars are available for digital and evolution. My Carrera start set is a 1/24 scale digital set which runs a higher voltage. The power supply that Marty has can be set to a lower voltage so you can run 1/32 scale cars. The Carrera control unit can handle both voltages. 👍🏻
@@dortiz1968 it is because Erik is running the stock 1/24 power supply and that would fry the Mario and Yoshi cars.. so the adjustable power supply will allow him to run 14 volts instead of 18volts.
Hey I like your video very much. I will share audio needs a little help. What really impressed me was your layout. Would you mind getting an overall view photo and sending it back? You have some really good ideas.
@@twolinesslotcars The track layout that I was referring to was the first one. I saw yesterday after you had been on line that your layout has changed completely. I really like the first track as it was really quick! It had a very good mix of turns and straight away. My big problem with a lot of tracks is they Focus way too much on a straight away. I would much rather see a challenge of turning ,braking, accelerating etc.
@@twolinesslotcars Marty, A simple screenshot would have been just fine. They want me to download the software app at $8.99 , no thank you. I caught quite a bit ,but it was more of the far right side coming back into the pit lane and Home Road area that I was trying to get your configuration.
Ha ha, we are heading in opposite directions. I just ordered a variable power supply so I can run 12V 1/32 cars on my old Carerra Exclusiv analog 18V 1/24 track. Have fun with 1/24!
@@twolinesslotcars I am actually going to get a separate transformer for each lane so I can do some BoP adjustment for cars/drivers. I guess that is old news in the Digital environment...
Did this solve the issue with your VW Bus crashing the CU? My new PS fixed the crashing issue on all my Slottechnik chips....for a week.... then it came back. Had it set to between 15-17V and all the cars were great. No beep fits. Then without changing anything it's back now. So idk. Must be a glitched/faulty CU or something. The journey continues for me :/
I fixed my bus by removing the resistor that is attached to the wires coming from the guide. The ferrite in that caused interference. Once removed, the Bus worked perfectly.
I’m new to digital 132 as well but something seems odd about fusing the PS for its max amps instead of fusing it for the max amp capacity of the CU. I’m guessing the CU can’t handle 10amps. I’ve read in blogs where they say the CU can only handle 4amps. Just asking I’m learning too. Thanks I liked your how to video.
Okay still new to SC. Installed power jumpers at 4 points of my track then connected to terminal block. Do I then connect my positive and negative from the terminal block directly to longwei power source? My Carrera control unit is connected to the power source already. Great show.
I have my jumpers connected to the rails of my CU, not directly to the Power Supply.. so i have one jumper for each rail.. goes from CU rails.. to the terminal block.. which then feeds the rest of the jumpers on the track.. i hope that makes sense?
@@twolinesslotcarswhat is the terminal block? Did I forget to buy this for my custom layout track? I’m new to this. I just assumed we connect jumpers from CU rails to any other track piece rails??
@@TheAlternativeEnding. you are correct. The terminal block can help manage the jumpers but is not required. I found that aggregating all of the jumpers on one end made for less wiring mess at the CU power track.. if you have a lot of jumpers trying to connect them all in one piece of track can be difficult..
@@twolinesslotcars So my track has a total length of 20 meters (about 70ish feet). How many jumpers do you think ill need? I was thinking 2 would be enough? Or am I mistaken?
@@llewellynwepener3389 if you are under 30 feet/ 10 meters lane length.. no jumpers. Even with 6 cars.. I had no problems.. but when we went to jumped to 60’/18 meters we noticed that cars would slow down…
I just want to be clear when switching between 1/32 & 1/24 scale. Is there a setting you can put it on and leave for both scales or do you have to change between the two?
@@twolinesslotcars Thank you for the quick response as I have my first two 1/24 scale cars being delivered today and a Professor Motors Power Supply ready to hook up.
Hey Marty I know I asked about ground wires and no need. Are you still using your power supply without the ground? Was talking ti Billy he was saying good to have but isn't that what the fuse is for? Thanks for always replying. So just reaching out trying to get a sense yes or no to ground and what have you heard over the year. Thanks
Frankie.. my power supply is grounded.. but I only run two wires to the track.. red and black.. I hope that answers your question..my apologies.. somehow I missed this question..
Greg, I didn’t have my headphones on.. and I had the noise gate threshold adjusted for another project. So that is why I get quiet.. It was my bad. Sorry about that…
Hey Marty was looking at a power supply also, i see you didnt ground. So no need to? On your DC power unit middle slot is ground, so no need to do this? Thanks
Very nice video. I already have the Professor Motor harness but it has the u shape copper connects.Does the plus and minus knobs on the power supply you show here turn a bit to accept those type of connectors and/or will just plain wire work also instead of having to use the plug ins that comes with the power supply? How is the power supply doing now as far as you running multiple 1/24 Digital Carrera cars? Thanks!
Thanks so much! Yes, this power supply will take a variety of ends..banana clips and u shape connectors/bare wire because the end of the posts have a screw connection. Running at 18-19 volts we can run 6 cars (1/24). As long as you have enough power taps for your layout.. the cars run great!
Another question. Do you set the amps or leave it alone (I understand you have to short the wire leads first to be able to select the amps). If left alone (without adjusting the current or amps) what amps is it showing it is drawing when you run the 1/24 Carrera cars? Does it ever reach the 10 amp max? Thanks again.
I leave it alone.. I have an inline fuse at 10A and it has not burned up the fuse.. only see big amp draws when there is a short on the track.. when the cars all launch at once would be the biggest draw.. and I have never had a problem.
We recommend turning amp knob to max and leaving it there. This will insure that amps are available when needed. 10 amps is more than adequate for ready to run model cars. Peak draw will occur at full throttle from a standing start with good traction. Yes, ammeter will show zero of near zero unless power is be consumed or a short exists.
A few things that I think are important to mention: First, the advantages of adding such a power supply to a digital system are: You can run 14.5 volts for 1/32 cars and 18 volts for the 1/24. so cars will run at proper speed at their native voltages. The second advantage of the power supply is that it provides more 10 amp compared the Carrera supply that provides less than 3 Amps. The additional amperage allows running more 1/24 cars that the 4 maximum possible with the stock supply. So so can have 6 1/24 drivers and even a couple of autonomous cars with 10 Amps.
If you were to run 18 Volts at all times, you could reduce the speed to the 1/32 cars to manage level through the CU panel of with race control software ,but the would need to be done for all 1/32 cars. This can be accomplished for all cars at once by placing all 1/32 cars on track and setting speed limit. Cars not speed limited might be too fast to drive, but probably not damaged except by crashing. The advantage of this approach is that you can run either or both car scales at any time without changing power supply or even race the two scales.
The downside of an adjustable power supply is that it IS possible to damage Carrera electronics, especially the CU and switches with improper use. Adjustment should NEVER we set lower than 12.5 volts or higher than 18 volts! It is tempting to go slower when newcomers are struggling to stay on track or higher to see how fast cars can go, but do NOT allow this. For this reason, especially if kids are present, power supply should not be accessible to them. In addition to the possibility of electronics failing with low or high voltages, bear in mind that switches placed at some distance from power taps already get less voltage than at the meter and they can fail to actuate fully if voltage at their location falls below 12 volts. If a flipper opens slowly or stops mid-slot the switch can be damaged. This is why power taps are important on large tracks and why they should be place near all switches. The problem is worse at any voltage below the standard 14.5. At Nomad Raceways and Central Arkansas Slot Racers Club we have used similar power supplies for many years and we DO recommend them, but is is important to know these things. Ideally, it would be best have a 10 amp power supply that adjusts only between 14 and 18 volts, but this is not a range commonly used in other fields, so we have never found one. Thanks for you videos I hope to visit your track sometime and y'all are welcome to our club track if you are ever near Little Rock Arkansas.
Jim! This is fantastic information for us beginners in the hobby. So much detail to fully understand the advantages and the risks of moving to an Adjustable Power Supply. I appreciate your channel and your track is amazing! If I ever find myself near Little Rock, you can bet I will stop in and you can show us around the track! Always welcome here at Two Lines!
@@twolinesslotcars One other thing that often comes up with similar adjustable power supplies: The Amperage meter only shows how much current is being used and so is normally at zero when cars are not running. If you have powered accessories, a small number may appear when cars are not running. When cars are running, AMp readings will fluctuate. Voltage readings should not fluctuate. Electric motors draw the most current when starting up or accelerating, so maximum amp draw will be at a start when all cars accelerate at full throttle. It is useful to note this highest reading. The highest reading should be well under the maximum rating of the power supply, like 9 Amps with a 10 amp supply. If power supply can't keep up with demand, cars will run inconsistently and motors will be unhappy. Also, as amperage goes up voltage may fall leading to the problems described above. A 10 amp power supply is more than adequate for a Carrera Digital system. 5 amps can suffice even with Six 1/24 cars. With an OmniSlotBox you can run more powerful and/or less efficient motors and then 10 amps or more is recommended. We have seen amp reading s as high at 6 amps for a single car! Our grand prix track has 40 amps (20 per lane) and the 8 lane commercial track at Batesville has 90 amps per lane! No digital system can handle high amp motors, but they are common in analog cars.
Limit it to 5A or you will toast you CU very soon.
We have run 20 amp power supplies for 15 years of heavy use on the same CU.
Great video Marty, I recently did the same but purchased the adaptor from Carrera
Tyler, that does save your original power supply from getting sacrificed.
@@twolinesslotcars Yes sir, I wanted to be able to have a backup power supple as well. Have a great week
@@tylerpaul650 good call! You too Tyler!
Can you send details on adaptor as well as where to get power supply
Great step by step for those of us cautious about frying the digital components. I have both the 1/32 and 1/24 power supplies and swap for the scale. I may be bold enough to change over to the variable supply I use for the tire truer. Love your channel!
Steve, thanks. I am happy you are enjoying the channel. having both power supplies makes it really easy, just plug and unplug... that is an advantage.. but I think the real advantage comes from being able to run 6 -1/24 scale cars instead of 4. Yes, hopefully a tire truer is in my future as well.
Nice! Can’t wait to see some 124 cars tearing it up.
That is the plan!!
I have a 1/25 scale Austin-Healy on a Carrera 1/32 scale Ford Torino on my Carrera 1/24 track. Goes very fast, and doesn't mind the 16 volt power supply. Great fun. I don't run it extended time periods.
Take a ride over to your local Harbor Freight and pick up "self adjusting wire strippers" --- they are a LIFE SAVER of time and value! All the best Marty!
Thanks! I have a pair that I bought from Harbor Freight 6 months ago.. and I can’t find them anywhere 🤦🏻♂️
Marty it's been fun watching your progression in the hobby... your path has been very similar to mine. Now that you have the adjustable power supply, it's time to pull the magnets out of your cars and turn the volts down to 12....🏎🏎
Ross, Thanks man. We raced non mag last week and now i am addicted! So much fun! thanks for hangin out on the livestream!
Good work Marty! Looks like you are heading into this hobby at warp speed. Something I can relate to lol
If you ain't first you last
- Ricky Bobby
Thanks Daniel! I am having a blast!
That unboxing knife is really sharp. It opened the box before you cut it 🤯😉. Good video! I’m on the std 1/24 adapter from Carrera. But I think I’m going to get this power supply so my kids can race the Mario en yoshi cars (and not my expensive 1/24 cars 😅)
Movie Magic! 😂 I had cut 99% of the tape to save time and it popped open on me 🤦🏻♂️ I kept it in because I thought it was funny. Thanks for calling me out on it Erik! 😂
Good call on Mario and Yoshi.. they look great and should be fun to drive!
Erik, how does the power supply help you run the Mario and Yoshi cars? Are they digitally chipped 1/32? I'm asking because I'm considering upgrading my Evolution track to Digital and trying to map my path with Marty's tips as well as the rest of the community. I too would like to let my kids drive kids car vs my nicer models.
@@dortiz1968 Hi Daniel, the Mario and yoshi cars are 1/32 scale and run on a different voltage then for example the 1/24 scale cars. You can get another Carrera 1/32 scale power supply and switch that with the 1/24 scale power supply. Or… you can get one power supply like Marty here and just turn a knob and set the correct voltage. The 1/32 scale Mario cars are available for digital and evolution.
My Carrera start set is a 1/24 scale digital set which runs a higher voltage. The power supply that Marty has can be set to a lower voltage so you can run 1/32 scale cars. The Carrera control unit can handle both voltages. 👍🏻
@@dortiz1968 it is because Erik is running the stock 1/24 power supply and that would fry the Mario and Yoshi cars.. so the adjustable power supply will allow him to run 14 volts instead of 18volts.
Hey I like your video very much. I will share audio needs a little help. What really impressed me was your layout. Would you mind getting an overall view photo and sending it back? You have some really good ideas.
I can send you the track layout..
@@twolinesslotcars The track layout that I was referring to was the first one. I saw yesterday after you had been on line that your layout has changed completely. I really like the first track as it was really quick! It had a very good mix of turns and straight away. My big problem with a lot of tracks is they Focus way too much on a straight away. I would much rather see a challenge of turning ,braking, accelerating etc.
I think that this is the layout you are referencing. Let me know if not..
www.softyroyal.de/?t=cea776bc
@@twolinesslotcars Marty, A simple screenshot would have been just fine. They want me to download the software app at $8.99 , no thank you. I caught quite a bit ,but it was more of the far right side coming back into the pit lane and Home Road area that I was trying to get your configuration.
@@TheTbird35 are you on iPad? The web version is free
Thanks Marty!
Any time!
Good job Marty!
Thanks Jorge!
Great job Marty, I've been thinking about doing this in the future as I'm not sure I can keep looking at the BRM cars and not buy any.
Dave, it is an easy project. I see a BRM in my future at some point!
@@twolinesslotcars it's Revoslot but bigger, and bigger is better right? :)
Wife and I own several BRM 1/24 cars. All we can say is WOW. Nice stuff!
G'day Marty great work 👏 👍
Thanks 👍
Ha ha, we are heading in opposite directions. I just ordered a variable power supply so I can run 12V 1/32 cars on my old Carerra Exclusiv analog 18V 1/24 track. Have fun with 1/24!
It give you a lot of flexibility!
@@twolinesslotcars I am actually going to get a separate transformer for each lane so I can do some BoP adjustment for cars/drivers. I guess that is old news in the Digital environment...
Did this solve the issue with your VW Bus crashing the CU?
My new PS fixed the crashing issue on all my Slottechnik chips....for a week.... then it came back. Had it set to between 15-17V and all the cars were great. No beep fits. Then without changing anything it's back now. So idk. Must be a glitched/faulty CU or something. The journey continues for me :/
I fixed my bus by removing the resistor that is attached to the wires coming from the guide. The ferrite in that caused interference. Once removed, the Bus worked perfectly.
I’m new to digital 132 as well but something seems odd about fusing the PS for its max amps instead of fusing it for the max amp capacity of the CU. I’m guessing the CU can’t handle 10amps. I’ve read in blogs where they say the CU can only handle 4amps. Just asking I’m learning too. Thanks I liked your how to video.
Yes, my fear is frying the CU.
Okay still new to SC. Installed power jumpers at 4 points of my track then connected to terminal block. Do I then connect my positive and negative from the terminal block directly to longwei power source? My Carrera control unit is connected to the power source already. Great show.
I have my jumpers connected to the rails of my CU, not directly to the Power Supply.. so i have one jumper for each rail.. goes from CU rails.. to the terminal block.. which then feeds the rest of the jumpers on the track.. i hope that makes sense?
@@twolinesslotcarswhat is the terminal block? Did I forget to buy this for my custom layout track? I’m new to this. I just assumed we connect jumpers from CU rails to any other track piece rails??
@@TheAlternativeEnding. you are correct. The terminal block can help manage the jumpers but is not required. I found that aggregating all of the jumpers on one end made for less wiring mess at the CU power track.. if you have a lot of jumpers trying to connect them all in one piece of track can be difficult..
@@twolinesslotcars So my track has a total length of 20 meters (about 70ish feet). How many jumpers do you think ill need? I was thinking 2 would be enough? Or am I mistaken?
@@TheAlternativeEnding. Rule of thumb is every 10 meters or 30 feet.. so you could probably get away with one.. but 2 would be great.
What size fuse did you use on the positive? From Amazon? Can you add links for the power supply and fuse. Thanks Marty
Patrick, I used a 10Amp fuse in line.
www.amazon.com/LW-K3010D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated-Spectrophotometer/dp/B07512KQDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?crid=3DT9BD5JE0JGV&keywords=adjustable+power+supply+dc&qid=1673226881&sprefix=adjustable+power%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-19
Would this eliminate the need for carrera jumper cables for building longer tracks?
No, you would still need jumpers. About every 30 feet works for me.
@@twolinesslotcars cheers.
If running 6 cars on digital with a couple of lane changers at which point do you need jumpers?
@@llewellynwepener3389 if you are under 30 feet/ 10 meters lane length.. no jumpers. Even with 6 cars.. I had no problems.. but when we went to jumped to 60’/18 meters we noticed that cars would slow down…
I just want to be clear when switching between 1/32 & 1/24 scale. Is there a setting you can put it on and leave for both scales or do you have to change between the two?
1/32 scale- 12-14.4 volts… 1/24 Carrera- 18volts.
@@twolinesslotcars Thank you for the quick response as I have my first two 1/24 scale cars being delivered today and a Professor Motors Power Supply ready to hook up.
@@craigv367godsman4 Craig, Awesome! The detail on the 1/24 is amazing!
Hey Marty I know I asked about ground wires and no need. Are you still using your power supply without the ground? Was talking ti Billy he was saying good to have but isn't that what the fuse is for? Thanks for always replying. So just reaching out trying to get a sense yes or no to ground and what have you heard over the year. Thanks
Frankie.. my power supply is grounded.. but I only run two wires to the track.. red and black.. I hope that answers your question..my apologies.. somehow I missed this question..
The fuse just protects from a power spike.. and protects the power supply if there is hard short..
@@twolinesslotcars no worries thanks
I wish there wash a way to just buy the carrera connector
I am guessing you might be able to get that direct from Carrera. It is not difficult to splice the connector.
Great job mate
Thanks Travis!
I think you need to get a body microphone, because as soon as you move your mouth away from that big might we can't hear you🤷🏼♂️
Greg, I didn’t have my headphones on.. and I had the noise gate threshold adjusted for another project. So that is why I get quiet.. It was my bad. Sorry about that…
Hey Marty was looking at a power supply also, i see you didnt ground. So no need to? On your DC power unit middle slot is ground, so no need to do this? Thanks
No need to ground Frankie 👍
Very nice video. I already have the Professor Motor harness but it has the u shape copper connects.Does the plus and minus knobs on the power supply you show here turn a bit to accept those type of connectors and/or will just plain wire work also instead of having to use the plug ins that comes with the power supply? How is the power supply doing now as far as you running multiple 1/24 Digital Carrera cars? Thanks!
Thanks so much! Yes, this power supply will take a variety of ends..banana clips and u shape connectors/bare wire because the end of the posts have a screw connection. Running at 18-19 volts we can run 6 cars (1/24). As long as you have enough power taps for your layout.. the cars run great!
@@twolinesslotcars Thanks for your answering so fast! Looking forward to learning more here.
Another question. Do you set the amps or leave it alone (I understand you have to short the wire leads first to be able to select the amps). If left alone (without adjusting the current or amps) what amps is it showing it is drawing when you run the 1/24 Carrera cars? Does it ever reach the 10 amp max? Thanks again.
I leave it alone.. I have an inline fuse at 10A and it has not burned up the fuse.. only see big amp draws when there is a short on the track.. when the cars all launch at once would be the biggest draw.. and I have never had a problem.
@@twolinesslotcars Ok thanks again for the help!
We recommend turning amp knob to max and leaving it there. This will insure that amps are available when needed. 10 amps is more than adequate for ready to run model cars. Peak draw will occur at full throttle from a standing start with good traction. Yes, ammeter will show zero of near zero unless power is be consumed or a short exists.
Great video, but it's very difficult to hear you at times.
Sorry about the audio.
@Marty Ford All good my friend, great content. 👍