That's a clone of the Magneti Marelli F1 pump. I built a brushless one years ago, and have code sitting around to vary speed based on a number of analog and digital inputs, Always willing to share!
You are using a breadboard to make the connections to the Arduino. From my experience I know that these connections do fail sometimes, very annoying in combination with PWM. Keep up the good work! Nice to see you back in business!
Considering the plan is to use passive injectors - that would necessitate an electronically regulated bypass valve or similar to regulate fueling according to rpm and load/tps. Fully mechanic fuel injection has never been widely adopted for various good reasons, one being that tuning a mapping integrated in a mechanical device is not as trivial as it might seem and needs a lot of work. Electronic is way simpler, and that way it is a rather trivial control application. With active injectors I'd agree though. Damn, can't write English worth half a dry fart today, or maybe it just sounds excessively strange in my mind, but I guess you'll get my point despite the strange wording and whatnot.
Green seal is Viton. Good with fuel and alcohol. Blue is typically flouro-silicone and nitro is listed as mildly aggressive and would not be considered as an acceptable choice. That would explain those seals at the top of the video. I ran MFI extensively with methanol. Do over-spin the pump and use a by-pass. You may need an idle by-pass if you want a reasonably tame idle. I really like the EFI solution for THIS application, tighter range power band widths. If you want to pull the torque curve up really fast, then 100% MFI is the solution, which is much faster reacting than EFI. EFI is always BEHIND the instantaneous engine demands. It first reads, then corrects. So slow compared to MFI, which is instantaneous to engine demands. It's actually a highly balanced hydraulic system, and it don't get any faster than that!
In case this is read by Mr STUFFING i have something to add, hydraulic pumps really dont like gasoline, it lacks the lubrication so be very very aware of gaulling inside the pump. I have built a jet engine and modified one from a mig23 (see my channe l for proof), i had the same issue, its difficult finding good fuel pumps that dont need oil for lubrication.
@@NIOC630 Yes! I forgot that real MFI fuel pumps (Enderle, Hilborn, Waterman) have a special case hardening on the gears. 22308 Waterman pump has 3.91GPM flow rate. You should be able to bypass off the extra fuel and scale it to your application. Pump is available on the Alkydigger web site in USA.
Seal eningeer here. The info stated about seal colour is incorrect. You cant assume the colour guarantees the composition. Mainly due to China fakes flooding the market.
Good day to you. You might want to look at the use of quinky tubes to take care of your pump pulse. We used this principle on the P-3 Orion aircraft hydraulic system. It involves the use of teeing off 2 unequal lengths of line from the pump output, then teeing them back into the supply line. They theory is that the 2 unequal discharge line lengths cancels the pulse of the pump stroke. It operates much the same way as an accumulator but has the added feature of no moving parts or supply capacity that happens with an accumulator. The length of each line just needs to be 1/2 of each other. for example make 1 line 4 inches long the other 2 inches long. The other thing we did was route this line through the fuel tank and it acted as cooling radiator to cool the hyd fluid.
The chamber adds smoothing for the flow, but also notice how much lag it introduces. At around 10:40 it took a couple of seconds for the nozzle flow to stabilise when you turned the motor speed down.
Hi Alex. Just made a small donation to cover the cost of a 250ml eye wash bottle. My gift to you to try and ensure you keep your sight and can continue your quest and our entertainment! Love the current path. Wayne from Oz.
Try real stand alone ECU...near to you (Sweden) should be MaxxECU. U can take smallest one - an Maxx Mini and it will be more then enough to drive ignition and fuel injection and data logging. The set up with Arduino is just to simple... Alpha N cycle ...TPS/RPM based map. With real automotive ECU you will have separate cranking , post start, idle algorithm and etc...temp, baro and whatever you think custom correction of ignition and fuel delivery.
@@sparkie5571 Yes but then we'll get a video about how he's learned programing and he's rewriting the firmware from the ground up, experimentally of course. 😆
@@sparkie5571 Speeduino would be perfect. You could run seperate injectors and a separate map for gas and nitro at full power. Also a simple motorcycle EFI pump and injectors would solve all the stuffing around with experimental rubbish
The accumulator is a great idea. My wife designed high-pressure/high-volume hydraulic pumps (35gpm/3,500psi) for air-control-surface actuators on airplanes. I think she used an accumulator to dampen the ripple in the output of a nine-piston engine driven pump.
I would suggest using an external regulator; this way you have a wider band of pump RPM vs. injector output (more granularity).....the difficulty is in sizing the regulator and it's opening pressure; ideally the regulator would be open well before the pipe powerband occurs (where fueling is the most critical)......I would look at aftermarket units from Summit, Jegs, etc. depending on the pressure range you wish to target, also routing the regulator return back to the gear-pumps inlet fitting will reduce pump cavitation at gear-pump speeds / not require as large of fuel lines to have adequate pressure control of the regulator, and much reduce the pulsing effect (the regulator acts as a mechanical damper).
On your breadboard, having wires loop up like that makes them sensitive to noise. Keep them as close to the breadboard as possible, and away from each other.
Alex, if you use a non-return valve between the fuel line and your CO2-bottle accumulator, a pressure spike entering the accumulator will be caught there and the pressure in the accumulator will increase. Then the accumulator will only be able to absorb pressure spikes with an even higher pressure, increasing the accumulator pressure more and more. Just leave out the on-return valve and let the accumulator do its thing.
An idea for if this method of fuel injection doesn't work. Have you thought of using a traditional efi fuel pump and making / modifying a fuel pressure regulator so that you can electronically adjust the fuel pressure. You could do this by attaching a stepper/servo to the pressure regulation screw.
You could try using a standard EFI fuel pressure regulator setup, the type that has a pressure regulator in the return line back to the fuel tank, pump can run at full speed all the time, the regulator will hold the pressure to a set pressure all the time on the injector side irrespective of injector flow and and dump the rest back to the tank, use the PWM to control the injector Drag racing do it different because 11000 hp nitro fuel requirements cant really be done with the standard way with standard parts, you could use a standard injector sized for a 500ish cc engine
Note for fuel pump: Add a gear reduction from the motor to the pump. The reason for pulses are most likely from the uneven load from the pump. If the motor is at a speed where it is more efficient, there will be less pulses due to a bigger load.
Rather than controlling the pump speed, have you considered instead controlling a very fine control NEEDLE valve with a stepper motor and use a more traditional fuel pump/regulator arrangement?
The accumulator solves one problem and introduces another. Huge amount of hysteresis to the system. For a WOT Bonneville run this is not perhaps a major issue. But something to be cognizant of none the less.
You got lucky there, imagine that happening with a red hot exhaust. Id make that eksternal fuel system encased so next time leaks occurs it would just drip down a tube onto ground. A motor with even lower kV would further reduce the motor pulsing. In rc crawlers we often use medium kV motors with gearbox/high battery voltage (vs low kV motor with standard voltage battery)to make the motor turn slowly with lots of torque/no jerking. A gearbox have less loss than a lower kV motor. A motor with more coils/stators usally have nicer low rpm behaviour. Plane or drone esc often handle 4-6s and they are really small/powerful/dirt cheap matched with a low kV motor gives nice low end torque.
I'm glad my comment on DSG pumps helped. Is there any safety rules around pressurising the fuel tank I presume there is as what I'm thinking isn't complicated and should be very reliable yet I've never seen anyone doing it. My idea is to keep the fuel tank at a constant pressure with a pre charged air tank and a regulator use a very large fuel line to make sure it will easily keep up when fully open and then it should just be a case of figuring out the best way to deliver it into the engine.
Might sound weird - restrict the flow coming out of it - think like carb syncing gauges, they pulse like mad if you don't restrict the flow in the vacuum pipes. It can help even out pulses massively. Obviously you don't want to go so far that flow becomes inadquate.
You should get an oscilloscope! It gives you a visual of the PWM and may show possible interference or noise that might be picked up by the Arduino. I got a cheap analog one second hand for not that much, they work great for things like PWM, a cheap digital one also works fine, but the quality isn't that good so you might end up finding it broken. Also, breadboards can act like an antenna and may screw with the reading. Keep up the good work!
Be sure and keep a fire extinguisher nearby... Upgrade to PFA tubing... Seems like a constant pressure...then do PWM on injection pulse... But I like your simpler method of continuous injection....at varied volume due to varying pressure...
I dont know the properties of Nitro Methanol but with an ‘unseperated’ accumulator where the gas (air) is in contact with the liquid, you might find that your trapped air dissolves in the NM over time and you lose some of the damping effect.
Spark ignition can mess with analog readings. Ran into this issue when I was using an ardunio to drive a servo acting as a replacement for a mechanical tach.
Caterpillar uses pwm throttle position sensors. The use a range of 10 percent to 90 percent. 10 being idle and 90 wide open The say less then 10 or more than 90 Is too close to a flat line.
I hope that you have a fire extinguisher or 2 close at hand and also maybe an eye wash station. Seeing that schnaps make a bid for freedom was a bit scary and could easily have gotten messy.
I was going to say also add a pressure relief back to tank at 110%ish of expected max pressure, especially if you add a gas accumulator. I guess I don't need to explain why😮😅
Arduino is very sensitive... you can use plugspark with resistor and use octocopler on the motherboard to reduce noise. Or plc is bether they have protdction for default
hello sr. if you use the digital input on the arduino to read pwm signal is very sensetive to electro magnetic field of your startergun you put on tha crackshaft . good luck and good job so far
When you're cranking on this motor with dry charge are you flooding the cylinder with oil first? Wondering about dryish wear and heating. Fuel is the primary source of cooling...
Good stuff! Try to think the prototyping parts so that you don't end up with any potential "runaway" stuff. Tinkering is always fun but don't get too carried away :D Try to think ergonomics, working positions, ease of access and possible failures. A big easy to use kill switch wouldn't hurt :D KISS method for the basic stuff I think is preferable. Easy for me to say from the other side of the screen. I mostly get carried away myself when doing stuff, so I know it's not easy to stop and reset. But at some point in the past, a certain Roadkill live stream from SEMA show taught me to do constant "tool resets". Meaning you stop what you're doing and put every tool back in their place, or on a certain spot where they are in some sort of order and easily accessible for continuing the work. Being pretty ADHD, they sure have helped me with the clutter and also the progress. This summer I did my first engine swap on a car (though I just swapped a greanaded engine for a healthy one) and I did a lot of tool resets, even at the very start of diagnosing the blown engine. It doesn't even take that long, especially if you have at least some place for everything you're using. Tool boxes and carry case toolsets are easy, but other stuff maybe not as much. Though you just need to reset the clutter and the tools you're not using at that specific moment, not the whole working spot or "station". Though I prefer putting every hand tool back in their places or to a certain spot so it forces you to think back and start again.
Just connect the ground and signal wire of the TPS directly to the arduino's 0-5v analog input. Don't bother messing around with a PWM signal out of the ignition system.
Can you not fit/make a small accumulator on the discharge side of the fuel pump to iron out the pulses at low speed. Just need a vessel with a fuel resistant diaphram
2stroke - What video did you put out that had your buddy from the salt flats singing the song about being a dirt track racer or circle track racer? Thanks for the content man
This is just so cool I have been watching you for years. I was thinking of doing this but I am only able to run gasoline. just want to know how much you gain in HP.
Why do you need the Arduino? Since your ECU uses a programmable map to translate the TPS to a PWM output, wouldn't it be easier to directly feed the PWM Signal as an input for a Brushless motor controller?
Boa noite amigo curto muito seu canal ja faz um 5 ano preciso de uma opinião sua ja vi vídeos de voce dando banho de nikasil e agora recentemente emcamisado cilindro qual voce acha que fica melhor nikasil ou ferro fundido ? pois tenho uma cr125 2t 1999 vou ter que emcamisar ou dar um jeito para voltar a rodar
I bet your multimeter was reading correctly! Maybe try and run your meter on the arduino out and see if it reads right as a test. See if you can check the Ignitech PWM output on an O-Scope. When I did my ignitech RPM out on the neighbors scope it was spitting out a sawtooth signal instead of a square wave like it should have been. It was very hard to get my raspberry pi to read the signal since the signal was so weak. Check and see if the scope of the PWM signal is what you expect it to be. There was a language barrier when I emailed ignitech about it.
As a mechanic of 40 years, learning the basics of all mechanical and electrical components is KEY. Doesn't matter What it is it has the same components in different configurations. Trouble shooting is a BREEZE!!
😊why dont you run the pump at high speed and create a fuel rail with constant pressure. You just return the overcapacity to tank. You can choose to keep a constant pressure or variate the pressure according to engine speed.
He does not use controllable injector but just a nozzle. He is using pump speed to control flow. I personally think that trying to make the system so simple is actually counterproductive and creating more issues than solving.
Very elegant solution and cost effective solution for the accumulator/pulsedampener, however the air in the accumulator will eventualy disolve in the fuel and be washed away making it stop working. It need to have som kind of a membrane. Perhaps one could use some kind of closed cell foamrubber ball/cylinder inside it (it wouldnt be distroed by over pressure). I couldnt see clearly when you opened the pump but it looked like at loberotor pump, they pulse alot.
THIS IS THE BEST WAY I CAN EXPLAIN IT… Alex, remember when for no seemingly apparent reason a couple of years ago, you just dropped everything and started building a log cabin by hand. That was very strange, and I may not understand it, it was important to you at the time. Well, when I first started watching your video and you’re talking about pulses, it made me wanna just jump up and say, hey, if you were using hydrogen gas, all you have to do is open a valve. So, naturally everything in my mind jumps back to my engine design, and it wouldn’t be out of the ordinary if you just stopped everything you’re doing and started a new engine design for seemingly no apparent reason. I wouldn’t be mad at you. But, just think, you could 3-D print the Torus, or donut shaped housing for the engine, and that would be most of the struggle done. It’s just like a two cycle engine engine it except it goes in a circle instead of back-and-forth. This would allow for the worlds first HCCI engine. When you think about it, hydrogen combustion expands 10 times faster than gasoline, so already you’ve got 10 times the power for a smaller package. Next, you have HCCI that all goes off at once, and you’re able to turn 100% of that to torque instead of a mere 15% that you can get from a crankshaft. My tiny engine design is all about extreme power. There isn’t anyway that you can use all of the power. It’s all direct torque. There’s no timing to deal with. There’s no carburetors, and no injectors. There’s no electricity to deal with. There’s no pumps, there’s nothing except a valve to turn to release the hydrogen gas. When one 2 headed piston run into the back of another two headed piston, they won’t make contact because there is an air spring between them, which is the charge of air and hydrogen, and all of the forward momentum of the first two headed piston has passed into the second two headed piston. So, no energy is lost like in a reciprocating piston. A crankshaft engine is limited in RPMs because the weight of the piston increases exponentially at higher RPMs until the connecting rod breaks, not so in my design. Mine is equal to a free spinning wheel. If you will, please revisit my channel, and read in the comments how the design works as I have written it in words. Hopefully, you still have the design I sent you three or four years ago that fits into a bicycle wheel. That engine design alone that was only 4 inches in diameter, would create so much torque and horsepower, that no one would believe that all that power is coming from such a small engine. You have got to think, a combustion that all goes off at once instead of propagating flame front, acting directly on a piston that goes directly around the output shaft with no oblique, crankshaft angles, expanding 10 times faster than gasoline, and the engine having no seals because it takes time for gases to escape past a crack, and HCI happens all at once with no time at all, and you’ve got a hyper mega ultra extreme power engine that cannot be improved upon. It is patentable, it is marketable. It is feasible, and it never wears out because it has no touching parks, except for the bearings which can be made of ceramics and virtually last forever with no maintenance. Just something to think about, so please if you get the time, revisit my channel and read the comments. Thanks, Alex.
Next, for the transmission, which is infinitely variable, constantly variable, very few parts count, reliable, compact, lightweight, and simplistic, all you need is a basic planetary gear set whose annulus is allowed to spin freely for neutral. It carries magnets that pass stationary wires, and produces electricity that if left unused, you have neutral. When you start to use this electricity, it puts resistance against the annulus on the planetary gear set, and the lowest ratio is achieved. The more electricity that you use, the more resistance on that annulus, or ring gear, is placed until the final 1:1 gear ratio is achieved. Where do you send the electric power? You send it to a front electric wheel motor. They already have those, so you don’t have to worry about trying to create one. how much energy you send to that front electric wheel motor determines how much engagement is deployed to the transmission. It is meta-genius, and as elegant as the gods of physics allow. So, be the first and the last to impress the world with the world’s last engine design. There’s nothing stopping you. Sometimes it’s OK to just drop what you’re doing and listen to the gods. They already know where you’re trying to go. Peace, get you a piece. Let her rip tater chip.
It’s like any other two-stroke engine, except instead of back-and-forth, the piston stop and start as they go around an a circle pattern inside of a donut shaped housing. The exhaust and intake come through the arms that hold the pistons that travel in the circle pattern. Intake comes in one face of the hockey, puck shaped engine, and exhaust exits through the other face of the hockey puck shaped engine. This shape allows it to fit inside the wheels. The front electric wheel motor also functions as regenerative braking, but instead of charging a battery, it charges a super capacitor, so that 90% of the energy is captured and released as opposed to the mere 13% when you use batteries. The technology speaks for itself, and is self evident. Anyone who has ears to hear and listens, will have the truth, jumping up and down inside of them. They will jump on this thing, and never wish to get off. it’s like that. So, hold on tight, buckle up, and get ready for the ride of your life. Peace out, bro. I expect only the wise to actively respond.
I had printed more, but I don’t see it there now, so I guess that’s for whatever reason, it was taken down or something I don’t know. But it was describing the simplistic infinitely variable, constantly variable transmission that goes with it. I have no idea why it was taken away.
Then comes the issue of how to start it and stop it. While it’s running, it loads a spring to stop it, and to restart it, the spring is released, and both sets of two headed pistons are spinning freely in the housing. Then, a cam lobe obstructs the pathway of one of the Pistons sets, and it stopped abruptly, and compression occurs to induce HCCI. That means that this engine "can be" purely mechanical with no electricity needed until you get to the transmission. That means that this engine would run even after an EMP blast. I friction brake could be used instead of the electrical resistance in the transmission… but, for commercial use, you would want to use the electric transmission. That is pure efficiency, and there are no brake pads to wear out, and there are no touching parts.
That's a clone of the Magneti Marelli F1 pump. I built a brushless one years ago, and have code sitting around to vary speed based on a number of analog and digital inputs, Always willing to share!
You are using a breadboard to make the connections to the Arduino. From my experience I know that these connections do fail sometimes, very annoying in combination with PWM. Keep up the good work! Nice to see you back in business!
Yea!! Breadboarding can be problematic. Get some PCB Way sponsorship 😁 and help from another channel.
Ignition system can add electrical noise as well.
@@JJayzX good point, there is the old F1 Cosworth video where the ignition interferes with the injection system.
I love that you did a slow-mo replay of the money shot Alex. Class!😂
Did not expect such a reduction in pulsing from that,cool)
Drive the pump with the engine. Gear ratio over spooky electronics someone else built. Great video, always anxious for the next!
Considering the plan is to use passive injectors - that would necessitate an electronically regulated bypass valve or similar to regulate fueling according to rpm and load/tps.
Fully mechanic fuel injection has never been widely adopted for various good reasons, one being that tuning a mapping integrated in a mechanical device is not as trivial as it might seem and needs a lot of work. Electronic is way simpler, and that way it is a rather trivial control application.
With active injectors I'd agree though.
Damn, can't write English worth half a dry fart today, or maybe it just sounds excessively strange in my mind, but I guess you'll get my point despite the strange wording and whatnot.
Green seal is Viton. Good with fuel and alcohol. Blue is typically flouro-silicone and nitro is listed as mildly aggressive and would not be considered as an acceptable choice. That would explain those seals at the top of the video. I ran MFI extensively with methanol. Do over-spin the pump and use a by-pass. You may need an idle by-pass if you want a reasonably tame idle. I really like the EFI solution for THIS application, tighter range power band widths. If you want to pull the torque curve up really fast, then 100% MFI is the solution, which is much faster reacting than EFI. EFI is always BEHIND the instantaneous engine demands. It first reads, then corrects. So slow compared to MFI, which is instantaneous to engine demands. It's actually a highly balanced hydraulic system, and it don't get any faster than that!
100% viton for the win, those blue silicone ones don't like a lot of solvents
In case this is read by Mr STUFFING i have something to add, hydraulic pumps really dont like gasoline, it lacks the lubrication so be very very aware of gaulling inside the pump. I have built a jet engine and modified one from a mig23 (see my channe l for proof), i had the same issue, its difficult finding good fuel pumps that dont need oil for lubrication.
@@NIOC630 Yes! I forgot that real MFI fuel pumps (Enderle, Hilborn, Waterman) have a special case hardening on the gears. 22308 Waterman pump has 3.91GPM flow rate. You should be able to bypass off the extra fuel and scale it to your application. Pump is available on the Alkydigger web site in USA.
Seal eningeer here. The info stated about seal colour is incorrect. You cant assume the colour guarantees the composition. Mainly due to China fakes flooding the market.
@@NIOC630
Considering it's a two stroke using premix or RC fuel, at least so far, there should be a fair bit of lubricity.
Good point nonetheless.
Good day to you. You might want to look at the use of quinky tubes to take care of your pump pulse. We used this principle on the P-3 Orion aircraft hydraulic system. It involves the use of teeing off 2 unequal lengths of line from the pump output, then teeing them back into the supply line. They theory is that the 2 unequal discharge line lengths cancels the pulse of the pump stroke. It operates much the same way as an accumulator but has the added feature of no moving parts or supply capacity that happens with an accumulator. The length of each line just needs to be 1/2 of each other. for example make 1 line 4 inches long the other 2 inches long. The other thing we did was route this line through the fuel tank and it acted as cooling radiator to cool the hyd fluid.
To deal with the pulsing , go full EFI with constant fuel pressure
The chamber adds smoothing for the flow, but also notice how much lag it introduces. At around 10:40 it took a couple of seconds for the nozzle flow to stabilise when you turned the motor speed down.
Agreed!
Hi Alex. Just made a small donation to cover the cost of a 250ml eye wash bottle.
My gift to you to try and ensure you keep your sight and can continue your quest and our entertainment!
Love the current path.
Wayne from Oz.
Thanks man! Good thing I wear glasses now, couldn't be bothered for my first 35yrs😂
Yo what a surprise! PREMIUM tuesday night entertainment
Try real stand alone ECU...near to you (Sweden) should be MaxxECU. U can take smallest one - an Maxx Mini and it will be more then enough to drive ignition and fuel injection and data logging. The set up with Arduino is just to simple... Alpha N cycle ...TPS/RPM based map. With real automotive ECU you will have separate cranking , post start, idle algorithm and etc...temp, baro and whatever you think custom correction of ignition and fuel delivery.
Your very knowledgeable
speeduino would work too as he’s already got an arruino, just plugs on top and gives him everything he needs.
@@sparkie5571 Yes but then we'll get a video about how he's learned programing and he's rewriting the firmware from the ground up, experimentally of course. 😆
@@sparkie5571 Speeduino would be perfect. You could run seperate injectors and a separate map for gas and nitro at full power. Also a simple motorcycle EFI pump and injectors would solve all the stuffing around with experimental rubbish
The accumulator is a great idea. My wife designed high-pressure/high-volume hydraulic pumps (35gpm/3,500psi) for air-control-surface actuators on airplanes. I think she used an accumulator to dampen the ripple in the output of a nine-piston engine driven pump.
It's called a pulsation dampener and they are commercially available, almost all modern cars have one on the fuel rail.
I've never done that. ;) Oh, wait, yes I have. Test setup inline fuel pressure gauge for EFI.
I love the RC ESC driven pump service system.
I would suggest using an external regulator; this way you have a wider band of pump RPM vs. injector output (more granularity).....the difficulty is in sizing the regulator and it's opening pressure; ideally the regulator would be open well before the pipe powerband occurs (where fueling is the most critical)......I would look at aftermarket units from Summit, Jegs, etc. depending on the pressure range you wish to target, also routing the regulator return back to the gear-pumps inlet fitting will reduce pump cavitation at gear-pump speeds / not require as large of fuel lines to have adequate pressure control of the regulator, and much reduce the pulsing effect (the regulator acts as a mechanical damper).
Dual injectors like jet engines. Primary at low and the secondary jets more add at high.
On your breadboard, having wires loop up like that makes them sensitive to noise. Keep them as close to the breadboard as possible, and away from each other.
Alex, if you use a non-return valve between the fuel line and your CO2-bottle accumulator, a pressure spike entering the accumulator will be caught there and the pressure in the accumulator will increase. Then the accumulator will only be able to absorb pressure spikes with an even higher pressure, increasing the accumulator pressure more and more.
Just leave out the on-return valve and let the accumulator do its thing.
it's alive 👍
An idea for if this method of fuel injection doesn't work.
Have you thought of using a traditional efi fuel pump and making / modifying a fuel pressure regulator so that you can electronically adjust the fuel pressure. You could do this by attaching a stepper/servo to the pressure regulation screw.
You could try using a standard EFI fuel pressure regulator setup, the type that has a pressure regulator in the return line back to the fuel tank, pump can run at full speed all the time, the regulator will hold the pressure to a set pressure all the time on the injector side irrespective of injector flow and and dump the rest back to the tank, use the PWM to control the injector
Drag racing do it different because 11000 hp nitro fuel requirements cant really be done with the standard way with standard parts, you could use a standard injector sized for a 500ish cc engine
Keep it up
Love these videos
I think you would be good with just larger diameter hose, to remove pulsing.
Note for fuel pump: Add a gear reduction from the motor to the pump. The reason for pulses are most likely from the uneven load from the pump. If the motor is at a speed where it is more efficient, there will be less pulses due to a bigger load.
Rather than controlling the pump speed, have you considered instead controlling a very fine control NEEDLE valve with a stepper motor and use a more traditional fuel pump/regulator arrangement?
That would be closer to how the original Hilborn mechanical fuel injection systems worked.
Nah...that would be too easy.
The accumulator solves one problem and introduces another. Huge amount of hysteresis to the system. For a WOT Bonneville run this is not perhaps a major issue. But something to be cognizant of none the less.
Thanks for taking fuel in the face for us!
if keysight needed to sponsor anyone its this man get him a nice oscilloscope
You got lucky there, imagine that happening with a red hot exhaust. Id make that eksternal fuel system encased so next time leaks occurs it would just drip down a tube onto ground. A motor with even lower kV would further reduce the motor pulsing. In rc crawlers we often use medium kV motors with gearbox/high battery voltage (vs low kV motor with standard voltage battery)to make the motor turn slowly with lots of torque/no jerking. A gearbox have less loss than a lower kV motor. A motor with more coils/stators usally have nicer low rpm behaviour. Plane or drone esc often handle 4-6s and they are really small/powerful/dirt cheap matched with a low kV motor gives nice low end torque.
Hope u can go forward soon. Long time viewer from nordland here.
I think even running a cable and bell crank on the potentiometer would net some okay results for testing
I'm glad my comment on DSG pumps helped. Is there any safety rules around pressurising the fuel tank I presume there is as what I'm thinking isn't complicated and should be very reliable yet I've never seen anyone doing it. My idea is to keep the fuel tank at a constant pressure with a pre charged air tank and a regulator use a very large fuel line to make sure it will easily keep up when fully open and then it should just be a case of figuring out the best way to deliver it into the engine.
Pump cavitation is an interesting phenomenon. Thanks for the upload!
New subscriber but haven't watched any of your videos! Took it by faith from a friend that I'll enjoy your content!
Might sound weird - restrict the flow coming out of it - think like carb syncing gauges, they pulse like mad if you don't restrict the flow in the vacuum pipes. It can help even out pulses massively. Obviously you don't want to go so far that flow becomes inadquate.
You should get an oscilloscope! It gives you a visual of the PWM and may show possible interference or noise that might be picked up by the Arduino. I got a cheap analog one second hand for not that much, they work great for things like PWM, a cheap digital one also works fine, but the quality isn't that good so you might end up finding it broken. Also, breadboards can act like an antenna and may screw with the reading.
Keep up the good work!
Live wires, high octane fuel, geee's take care Alex, love the slow motion replay mate lol.
Love the new background music!
that stile of pump is incredibly similar to the toyota bt transpallet hydraulic pump.... we have a bunch of those pump around in the shop
Be sure and keep a fire extinguisher nearby...
Upgrade to PFA tubing...
Seems like a constant pressure...then do PWM on injection pulse...
But I like your simpler method of continuous injection....at varied volume due to varying pressure...
I dont know the properties of Nitro Methanol but with an ‘unseperated’ accumulator where the gas (air) is in contact with the liquid, you might find that your trapped air dissolves in the NM over time and you lose some of the damping effect.
Spark ignition can mess with analog readings. Ran into this issue when I was using an ardunio to drive a servo acting as a replacement for a mechanical tach.
Maybe try a Trinamics motor controller unit to drive the pump.
Good job!
Caterpillar uses pwm throttle position sensors. The use a range of 10 percent to 90 percent. 10 being idle and 90 wide open
The say less then 10 or more than 90 Is too close to a flat line.
Yess!! It works😊
With different gearing, the electric motor can be run at a much higher rpm even at low pump speeds. This should make it much smoother.
Need more slo-mo on this channel!!!
You should switch to metal lines for fuel, maybe some pulsation is coming from the lines?
I hope that you have a fire extinguisher or 2 close at hand and also maybe an eye wash station. Seeing that schnaps make a bid for freedom was a bit scary and could easily have gotten messy.
I was going to say also add a pressure relief back to tank at 110%ish of expected max pressure, especially if you add a gas accumulator. I guess I don't need to explain why😮😅
Why not run the injection with a carburetor, just have the injector turn on at 3/4 throttle
You may have issues with the elastomer seals in that pump running Nitro Methanol over the longer term unless they are replaced with FKM (Viton) seals
Looking good Alex, well except for the spraying of fuel everywhere. 😉
Arduino is very sensitive... you can use plugspark with resistor and use octocopler on the motherboard to reduce noise. Or plc is bether they have protdction for default
Thanks again.
hello sr. if you use the digital input on the arduino to read pwm signal is very sensetive to electro magnetic field of your startergun you put on tha crackshaft . good luck and good job so far
Great work man! Would you by any chance have reference information on how I could convert a 2 stroke gas engine to a nitro methane engine?
i like the background music
When you're cranking on this motor with dry charge are you flooding the cylinder with oil first? Wondering about dryish wear and heating. Fuel is the primary source of cooling...
the moment you put that "temporary" fuel line on, I knew at some point you'd be drinking nitro. 😆
Good stuff! Try to think the prototyping parts so that you don't end up with any potential "runaway" stuff. Tinkering is always fun but don't get too carried away :D Try to think ergonomics, working positions, ease of access and possible failures. A big easy to use kill switch wouldn't hurt :D KISS method for the basic stuff I think is preferable.
Easy for me to say from the other side of the screen. I mostly get carried away myself when doing stuff, so I know it's not easy to stop and reset. But at some point in the past, a certain Roadkill live stream from SEMA show taught me to do constant "tool resets". Meaning you stop what you're doing and put every tool back in their place, or on a certain spot where they are in some sort of order and easily accessible for continuing the work. Being pretty ADHD, they sure have helped me with the clutter and also the progress. This summer I did my first engine swap on a car (though I just swapped a greanaded engine for a healthy one) and I did a lot of tool resets, even at the very start of diagnosing the blown engine. It doesn't even take that long, especially if you have at least some place for everything you're using. Tool boxes and carry case toolsets are easy, but other stuff maybe not as much. Though you just need to reset the clutter and the tools you're not using at that specific moment, not the whole working spot or "station". Though I prefer putting every hand tool back in their places or to a certain spot so it forces you to think back and start again.
Just connect the ground and signal wire of the TPS directly to the arduino's 0-5v analog input. Don't bother messing around with a PWM signal out of the ignition system.
I still owe you 2 c notes for Bonneville...
I had setbacks and some huge bills...
Can you not fit/make a small accumulator on the discharge side of the fuel pump to iron out the pulses at low speed. Just need a vessel with a fuel resistant diaphram
You need an oscilloscope to more accurately measure and observe what's going on with the duty cycle.
I feel like I using an inline fuel pressure regulator would solve a lot of your pulsing issues
😊wouldn't electric injectors and a common rail work much better with a fuel pressure regulator like most cars now days ??
min 8:30 I love that base rithm... can you share the song/loop please?
EASY FIX, machine a gear step up. so the motor spins 2-1 of the pump. this would solve the slow speed issues
2stroke - What video did you put out that had your buddy from the salt flats singing the song about being a dirt track racer or circle track racer?
Thanks for the content man
ua-cam.com/video/CGoUbVyfAQ8/v-deo.htmlsi=LDvt4jBVFpIZRvs9
This is just so cool I have been watching you for years. I was thinking of doing this but I am only able to run gasoline. just want to know how much you gain in HP.
bra musikk i dag Alex )
Why do you need the Arduino? Since your ECU uses a programmable map to translate the TPS to a PWM output, wouldn't it be easier to directly feed the PWM Signal as an input for a Brushless motor controller?
what about tryin something like diesel injectors with pop up pressure and try to time it?
Arguably the best Brilliant advert on the internet. Loved the down to earth way you describe how you use it!
Return line with a regulator possibly help remedy injection pulseing?.?.
Boa noite amigo curto muito seu canal ja faz um 5 ano preciso de uma opinião sua ja vi vídeos de voce dando banho de nikasil e agora recentemente emcamisado cilindro qual voce acha que fica melhor nikasil ou ferro fundido ? pois tenho uma cr125 2t 1999 vou ter que emcamisar ou dar um jeito para voltar a rodar
The money shot😂
Promessing 🎉🎉
Can you get the ignitech unit to communicate with some other system? SPI? i2c? Serial?
What is the part number for this pump?
Can you change the amount of poles the esc is set too? Had this problem in and RC car but you could program the esc, timing and poles
You need to get sponsored by Keysight to get a rad new oscilloscope
'They didn't have what I needed.... but luckily I have a mill.... problem solved'
Before you get the basic engine running properly fit meth. Injection and before everything is working perfectly, fit a supercharger
I bet your multimeter was reading correctly! Maybe try and run your meter on the arduino out and see if it reads right as a test.
See if you can check the Ignitech PWM output on an O-Scope. When I did my ignitech RPM out on the neighbors scope it was spitting out a sawtooth signal instead of a square wave like it should have been. It was very hard to get my raspberry pi to read the signal since the signal was so weak. Check and see if the scope of the PWM signal is what you expect it to be. There was a language barrier when I emailed ignitech about it.
Who else suggested a "Surge Tank" type solution?
As a mechanic of 40 years, learning the basics of all mechanical and electrical components is KEY. Doesn't matter What it is it has the same components in different configurations. Trouble shooting is a BREEZE!!
Your best bet is using a EPDM seal.
mount it directy to the engine ?
En CO2 patron. Enkelt og funktionell løsning.
Love it Alex🤟
Amine like a programmer? Do you want mine?!
NICE MONEY SHOT!
😊why dont you run the pump at high speed and create a fuel rail with constant pressure. You just return the overcapacity to tank. You can choose to keep a constant pressure or variate the pressure according to engine speed.
He does not use controllable injector but just a nozzle. He is using pump speed to control flow. I personally think that trying to make the system so simple is actually counterproductive and creating more issues than solving.
@@rehepeks he has been going backwards for at least six months now. i cant watch anymore. skip... nothing. skip. nothing. skip...
Very elegant solution and cost effective solution for the accumulator/pulsedampener, however the air in the accumulator will eventualy disolve in the fuel and be washed away making it stop working. It need to have som kind of a membrane. Perhaps one could use some kind of closed cell foamrubber ball/cylinder inside it (it wouldnt be distroed by over pressure).
I couldnt see clearly when you opened the pump but it looked like at loberotor pump, they pulse alot.
Put a capacitor across the leads to smooth out the PWM to the pump motor
Brilliant!...Paul Whitehouse....!
THIS IS THE BEST WAY I CAN EXPLAIN IT…
Alex, remember when for no seemingly apparent reason a couple of years ago, you just dropped everything and started building a log cabin by hand. That was very strange, and I may not understand it, it was important to you at the time. Well, when I first started watching your video and you’re talking about pulses, it made me wanna just jump up and say, hey, if you were using hydrogen gas, all you have to do is open a valve. So, naturally everything in my mind jumps back to my engine design, and it wouldn’t be out of the ordinary if you just stopped everything you’re doing and started a new engine design for seemingly no apparent reason. I wouldn’t be mad at you. But, just think, you could 3-D print the Torus, or donut shaped housing for the engine, and that would be most of the struggle done. It’s just like a two cycle engine engine it except it goes in a circle instead of back-and-forth. This would allow for the worlds first HCCI engine.
When you think about it, hydrogen combustion expands 10 times faster than gasoline, so already you’ve got 10 times the power for a smaller package. Next, you have HCCI that all goes off at once, and you’re able to turn 100% of that to torque instead of a mere 15% that you can get from a crankshaft. My tiny engine design is all about extreme power. There isn’t anyway that you can use all of the power. It’s all direct torque. There’s no timing to deal with. There’s no carburetors, and no injectors. There’s no electricity to deal with. There’s no pumps, there’s nothing except a valve to turn to release the hydrogen gas.
When one 2 headed piston run into the back of another two headed piston, they won’t make contact because there is an air spring between them, which is the charge of air and hydrogen, and all of the forward momentum of the first two headed piston has passed into the second two headed piston. So, no energy is lost like in a reciprocating piston. A crankshaft engine is limited in RPMs because the weight of the piston increases exponentially at higher RPMs until the connecting rod breaks, not so in my design. Mine is equal to a free spinning wheel.
If you will, please revisit my channel, and read in the comments how the design works as I have written it in words. Hopefully, you still have the design I sent you three or four years ago that fits into a bicycle wheel. That engine design alone that was only 4 inches in diameter, would create so much torque and horsepower, that no one would believe that all that power is coming from such a small engine. You have got to think, a combustion that all goes off at once instead of propagating flame front, acting directly on a piston that goes directly around the output shaft with no oblique, crankshaft angles, expanding 10 times faster than gasoline, and the engine having no seals because it takes time for gases to escape past a crack, and HCI happens all at once with no time at all, and you’ve got a hyper mega ultra extreme power engine that cannot be improved upon. It is patentable, it is marketable. It is feasible, and it never wears out because it has no touching parks, except for the bearings which can be made of ceramics and virtually last forever with no maintenance. Just something to think about, so please if you get the time, revisit my channel and read the comments. Thanks, Alex.
Next, for the transmission, which is infinitely variable, constantly variable, very few parts count, reliable, compact, lightweight, and simplistic, all you need is a basic planetary gear set whose annulus is allowed to spin freely for neutral. It carries magnets that pass stationary wires, and produces electricity that if left unused, you have neutral. When you start to use this electricity, it puts resistance against the annulus on the planetary gear set, and the lowest ratio is achieved. The more electricity that you use, the more resistance on that annulus, or ring gear, is placed until the final 1:1 gear ratio is achieved. Where do you send the electric power? You send it to a front electric wheel motor. They already have those, so you don’t have to worry about trying to create one. how much energy you send to that front electric wheel motor determines how much engagement is deployed to the transmission. It is meta-genius, and as elegant as the gods of physics allow. So, be the first and the last to impress the world with the world’s last engine design. There’s nothing stopping you. Sometimes it’s OK to just drop what you’re doing and listen to the gods. They already know where you’re trying to go. Peace, get you a piece. Let her rip tater chip.
It’s like any other two-stroke engine, except instead of back-and-forth, the piston stop and start as they go around an a circle pattern inside of a donut shaped housing. The exhaust and intake come through the arms that hold the pistons that travel in the circle pattern. Intake comes in one face of the hockey, puck shaped engine, and exhaust exits through the other face of the hockey puck shaped engine. This shape allows it to fit inside the wheels. The front electric wheel motor also functions as regenerative braking, but instead of charging a battery, it charges a super capacitor, so that 90% of the energy is captured and released as opposed to the mere 13% when you use batteries. The technology speaks for itself, and is self evident. Anyone who has ears to hear and listens, will have the truth, jumping up and down inside of them. They will jump on this thing, and never wish to get off. it’s like that. So, hold on tight, buckle up, and get ready for the ride of your life. Peace out, bro. I expect only the wise to actively respond.
I had printed more, but I don’t see it there now, so I guess that’s for whatever reason, it was taken down or something I don’t know. But it was describing the simplistic infinitely variable, constantly variable transmission that goes with it. I have no idea why it was taken away.
To keep things simple and prove it out, all you need is a very small model. It won’t take very much time at all. Something is small as a cox engine.
Then comes the issue of how to start it and stop it. While it’s running, it loads a spring to stop it, and to restart it, the spring is released, and both sets of two headed pistons are spinning freely in the housing. Then, a cam lobe obstructs the pathway of one of the Pistons sets, and it stopped abruptly, and compression occurs to induce HCCI. That means that this engine "can be" purely mechanical with no electricity needed until you get to the transmission. That means that this engine would run even after an EMP blast. I friction brake could be used instead of the electrical resistance in the transmission… but, for commercial use, you would want to use the electric transmission. That is pure efficiency, and there are no brake pads to wear out, and there are no touching parts.