Take Your First (FREE!) Step Into Timber Framing with our Online Mini Course - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure. Also check out our 5-day, in-person intensive Purely Post-And-Beam class - shelterinstitute.com/course_offerings
That is one of the nicest pieces of Eastern White Pine I’ve ever seen. Not a knot to be found. Excellent work. I think you were in college when I took the timber framing class in 1994.....Still one of my fondest memories.
love your channel sir... you are doing a service... less and less young men are having craft... such as carpenter... hope to take your classes in person some day...
Such timber is only (widely) available in Americas. Maybe in Siberia as well. But absolutely not in continental Europe or whereabouts. Beautiful material!!!!!❤️
You let us know what the dovetail angles are? Also, how space extra at the various dims. Presumably you’re going to hammer side wedges into the two faces on assembly. As this is a tie beam, we can assume these dovetails are floor joists.
Thanks. I have been building furniture for around the home with hand tools only for the past four years. This larger scale looks like a lot of fun. I think I drove by your place two years ago when I was in Maine and visiting Lie-Nielsen. Out of curiosity, how do you test fit the dovetail? It's easy in furniture but given the size of the timber frames I could see where this would be difficult. Are you working to similar tolerances of fit in timber frames as you are to furniture?
@JoeLeonetti we are just down the road from Lie Nielsen. I hope you are able to stop by next time you drive by! Timber framing is so much fun and it is large scale furniture building. We use similar tolerances with timber framing that one uses for furniture building. We have refined our technique so that we do not test fit any of it until we are ready to assemble. WE detail how to ensure success with this in our classes. onlinecourses.shelterinstitute.com/courses/purely-post-beam-online-course If you are interested in talking with a real live human being, feel free to call 207-442-7938
Hi guys. Really enjoying your videos. Wondering about the kinds of timber most frequently used for timber framing. Is that post pine? Also, do people in the states usually source the timber from their own properties? I'm in Australia, most available trees here are hardwood.
Thanks for watching....we use eastern white pine and eastern hemlock regularly, because they are abundant here in Maine. If we need a sstronger or stiffer timber (to limit deflection) we import some douglas fir from the west coast. If we need rot resistance, we import one of the excellent cedars from the west coast (Port Orford, Western Red or Alaska Yellow). We do find that a lot of our students use the wood from their own property-very satisfying!
Hey Shelter! I signed up for the Feb Design build (in person) class and like all good students I'm preparing for class by watching and learning 😀. I'm assuming that particular joint was for a joist or some kind of floor support... after, say 30 years, once both timbers have shrunk to their final sizes, what would one expect to see upon pulling the floor up and inspecting the joint? I know it is common practice (rule of thumb) to leave a small gap at the back of a regular mortise that you intend to peg a tenon into, allowing room for shrinkage of the timber with the mortise without exploding the joint but I would imagine you cut the male half of that joint to fit the dovetail pocket perfectly. Is the hope that both timbers involved in the joint shrink at the same rate, allowing the male portion to slide forward in the pocket as both timbers shrink in width? Since the male end of the joist is very likely smaller in width, how does one accurately compensate for this (especially considering the many varieties of wood species people use in timber framing or even someone using two different species in the same joint)? I'm pondering the same question with regard to the level of the two timbers on which the floor itself is laid upon (after 30 years). Would the top/sill plate shrink more since it is bigger, leaving the joist proud in the joint? Thanks for the video, I'm excited for Feb and gaining the last bit of confidence I need to begin my journey!
Hi blueberry and Gaius! Is there some level of math I should know and understand before purchasing the online course? I am so excited for the online course. I don’t have the time to take a trip to Maine. And would love to learn timber framing basics.
Hey Nathan-we think that all of the math required for the course is covered thoroughly in the course, no pre-studying required. We use geometry and straight forward algebra to calculate rafter lengths and beam strengths.
Hey Sean- no reason not to do that, and we show that technique in another video-it works well. Here we are focusing on hand tool work. Thanks for watching!
Can you do this with a angled circular saw cut? Just chisel out the end. Whatever the radius of the blade don't get, you can come in with a chisel against a already registered face? Sorry just stumbled onto this video wasn't sure if this was a all hand tool deal.
Cal L you sure can make the relief cuts with a circular saw. To make the cut on the left and right side, you will need two saws; one that pivots left (hypoid gear type) and one that pivots right (worm drive). Cutting every 1/8” or so makes for easy chiseling. This video was meant to show the hand tool approach.
@@ShelterInstitute I thought so too. That's a nice and sharp slick BTW. Timberframe has always interested me. So much sturdier (at least in feel and beauty) than a nail and hammer stick framed house.
Wondered why you were chiseling the sides at an angle. Around 5:30 we then see that the cut is angled like an A. I was alll ooooooh. Would have shown that shot at the start for us who just like to watch wood turn into shavings. :)
Everyone on the Shelter Design Build Crew selects their own hand tools. Certainly, Pat has a preference for the 1-7/8-in Japanese Slicks. The Damascus steel is exceptionally hard. However, we know that tool preference is very personal.
You reeeaaally don't need all the compressed video and sound to show the work. A two-second cut, and on to the next step. The sound of a saw in high speed just sounds like a dentist drill, and I don't know anyone who enjoys hearing that.
Hey Mike, thanks for the feedback. This is video is a sample from our timber framing online course, and the reason we left everything in the video was to show the process from A-Z, as it's an instructional video series that people pay for to learn how to timber frame. We love feedback - we actually just made a big tweak to the online course where we reverted all of the sped-up clips back to just real time, per some student feedback that a lot of the value was watching the joinery work in real-time and studying the instructor's movements. You can check out a free sample of that online class here if you're curious - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm
Take Your First (FREE!) Step Into Timber Framing with our Online Mini Course - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm
We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure.
Also check out our 5-day, in-person intensive Purely Post-And-Beam class - shelterinstitute.com/course_offerings
That is one of the nicest pieces of Eastern White Pine I’ve ever seen. Not a knot to be found. Excellent work. I think you were in college when I took the timber framing class in 1994.....Still one of my fondest memories.
Jon -- it is ALWAYS great to hear from a grad! If you have not yet, please join our Facebook Group of Graduates of the Purely Post & BEam Class!
Man, he cut through that wood like a beaver! "Best talent using best tools" is awesome to watch!
love your channel sir... you are doing a service... less and less young men are having craft... such as carpenter...
hope to take your classes in person some day...
Howdy. Did you manage to attend? I'm currently doing the short free online course. Thinking of purchasing the 10 hour online course.
did not attend... but i was able to build at 16' X 24' Cabin... no time these days...
hope you learn a lot bud... take care PMAC@@pmacc3557
Great craftsmanship. Beautiful wood and tools. That's a fine chisel!😊
Such timber is only (widely) available in Americas. Maybe in Siberia as well. But absolutely not in continental Europe or whereabouts.
Beautiful material!!!!!❤️
Douglas fir or oak
Can't wait until January!
Nice video! Thanks a lot!👍
Great video, Thank you for the information. The pockets on those shorts are awesome. Could you tell me where to purchase a pair?
Nice job
You let us know what the dovetail angles are? Also, how space extra at the various dims. Presumably you’re going to hammer side wedges into the two faces on assembly. As this is a tie beam, we can assume these dovetails are floor joists.
Good job !!!
Bloody good!! However I would' take his classes though. I'm 6ft 3inches. It may be an issue
Are there any videos where you are measuring and marking the wood for cutting the tenon and mortise?
Thanks. I have been building furniture for around the home with hand tools only for the past four years. This larger scale looks like a lot of fun. I think I drove by your place two years ago when I was in Maine and visiting Lie-Nielsen. Out of curiosity, how do you test fit the dovetail? It's easy in furniture but given the size of the timber frames I could see where this would be difficult. Are you working to similar tolerances of fit in timber frames as you are to furniture?
@JoeLeonetti we are just down the road from Lie Nielsen. I hope you are able to stop by next time you drive by! Timber framing is so much fun and it is large scale furniture building. We use similar tolerances with timber framing that one uses for furniture building. We have refined our technique so that we do not test fit any of it until we are ready to assemble. WE detail how to ensure success with this in our classes. onlinecourses.shelterinstitute.com/courses/purely-post-beam-online-course
If you are interested in talking with a real live human being, feel free to call 207-442-7938
Hi guys. Really enjoying your videos. Wondering about the kinds of timber most frequently used for timber framing. Is that post pine? Also, do people in the states usually source the timber from their own properties?
I'm in Australia, most available trees here are hardwood.
Thanks for watching....we use eastern white pine and eastern hemlock regularly, because they are abundant here in Maine. If we need a sstronger or stiffer timber (to limit deflection) we import some douglas fir from the west coast. If we need rot resistance, we import one of the excellent cedars from the west coast (Port Orford, Western Red or Alaska Yellow). We do find that a lot of our students use the wood from their own property-very satisfying!
Is there any reason why you wouldn't start the center relief cut with the saw as well?
Hey Shelter! I signed up for the Feb Design build (in person) class and like all good students I'm preparing for class by watching and learning 😀. I'm assuming that particular joint was for a joist or some kind of floor support... after, say 30 years, once both timbers have shrunk to their final sizes, what would one expect to see upon pulling the floor up and inspecting the joint? I know it is common practice (rule of thumb) to leave a small gap at the back of a regular mortise that you intend to peg a tenon into, allowing room for shrinkage of the timber with the mortise without exploding the joint but I would imagine you cut the male half of that joint to fit the dovetail pocket perfectly. Is the hope that both timbers involved in the joint shrink at the same rate, allowing the male portion to slide forward in the pocket as both timbers shrink in width? Since the male end of the joist is very likely smaller in width, how does one accurately compensate for this (especially considering the many varieties of wood species people use in timber framing or even someone using two different species in the same joint)? I'm pondering the same question with regard to the level of the two timbers on which the floor itself is laid upon (after 30 years). Would the top/sill plate shrink more since it is bigger, leaving the joist proud in the joint? Thanks for the video, I'm excited for Feb and gaining the last bit of confidence I need to begin my journey!
Did you get the answer to your questions?
No. I'm still curious but if you guys are busy, don't worry about answering. Thanks for looking back though!@@pmacc3557
Hi blueberry and Gaius! Is there some level of math I should know and understand before purchasing the online course? I am so excited for the online course. I don’t have the time to take a trip to Maine. And would love to learn timber framing basics.
Hey Nathan-we think that all of the math required for the course is covered thoroughly in the course, no pre-studying required. We use geometry and straight forward algebra to calculate rafter lengths and beam strengths.
Arunda system, Trust me you need this. People and job site conditions will not allow this time consuming process. Thanks for sharing tho.
Why not saw your relief cut down the middle? Wont cut it all but seems like it would help some.
Barr Chisel 👍
Why wouldn’t you use a power saw were you knew the angle was exactly perfect?
Hey Sean-
no reason not to do that, and we show that technique in another video-it works well. Here we are focusing on hand tool work. Thanks for watching!
At 1.10, what chisel is ye using? Is it the robert sorby?
Looks like a Barr chisel
Can you do this with a angled circular saw cut? Just chisel out the end. Whatever the radius of the blade don't get, you can come in with a chisel against a already registered face? Sorry just stumbled onto this video wasn't sure if this was a all hand tool deal.
Cal L you sure can make the relief cuts with a circular saw. To make the cut on the left and right side, you will need two saws; one that pivots left (hypoid gear type) and one that pivots right (worm drive). Cutting every 1/8” or so makes for easy chiseling. This video was meant to show the hand tool approach.
@@ShelterInstitute I thought so too. That's a nice and sharp slick BTW. Timberframe has always interested me. So much sturdier (at least in feel and beauty) than a nail and hammer stick framed house.
Would it have made sense to make the relief cut with the pull saw while you were there?
I was thinking the same thing, but chisels are so much fun. ✌️☕️🎩
How do these joints hold up with shrinkage?
Wondered why you were chiseling the sides at an angle. Around 5:30 we then see that the cut is angled like an A. I was alll ooooooh. Would have shown that shot at the start for us who just like to watch wood turn into shavings. :)
Same here, feel like a dummy now lol
Whey don't you saw down the center of the dove tail so you don't have use the chisel?
Is the Japanese slick your preference?
Everyone on the Shelter Design Build Crew selects their own hand tools. Certainly, Pat has a preference for the 1-7/8-in Japanese Slicks. The Damascus steel is exceptionally hard. However, we know that tool preference is very personal.
50% of viewer have not touched a chisel in their life, or just me.
To be fair, you can also just buy a pair of regular chisel and grind them yourself into left- and right-hand skew chisels.
Why not use a router bit? for most of it?
👏👏👏👍
Instead of using skew chisels, why not just clip the corner off the dovetail itself?
I am guessing, the beam gets turned 90 degrees and the joists get dropped down into the dovetails?
ringerson4x4 yes!
This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.
this proves we are all kin to Noah.......
The. Gut gut.
You reeeaaally don't need all the compressed video and sound to show the work. A two-second cut, and on to the next step. The sound of a saw in high speed just sounds like a dentist drill, and I don't know anyone who enjoys hearing that.
its ok so we can folow ...not a problem. love that compressed video
Hey Mike, thanks for the feedback. This is video is a sample from our timber framing online course, and the reason we left everything in the video was to show the process from A-Z, as it's an instructional video series that people pay for to learn how to timber frame. We love feedback - we actually just made a big tweak to the online course where we reverted all of the sped-up clips back to just real time, per some student feedback that a lot of the value was watching the joinery work in real-time and studying the instructor's movements. You can check out a free sample of that online class here if you're curious - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm
@@ShelterInstitute Mike also tells the neighborhood kids to not play in front of his house.
Bad joint ! Not good, and if you cut it like that how do you make money ? good luck..