I agree with you, it had to look symmetrical. I like how you are able to pull in parts from other engines to solve a problem. I think this thing is doing to be do fun to drive.
I wish someone would mass produce manifolds/ adapters like that so more RT guys had different supercharger options. Sick progress man , love the build.
I luv ur video, expertise and opinions on things. I was actually about to spend a min of 800 for lifters for my hemi until I watched your videos on lifters. I thought they had failed bcuz the pins were not in sync with the whole on the side of the mds lifters...... thank you! Keep the videos coming
Sky, I have a few thoughts and one question :) 1. regarding the P/S mount, I'd weld in a small piece of steel perpendicular to the bolt axis, on the front of the mount. It looked like there is a surface where you could have the metal protrusion rest on, and then if you imagine the P/S pump pivoting on the bolt centerline, it would prevent the belt from pulling the P/S pump toward the center of the engine. 2. I don't know how much torque the BAS (GM Term, not sure what the Mopar is "Belt-Alternator-Starter") has, but I would bet you it would be fairly close to the drag caused by the blower when it goes into boost (e.g. the bypass valve is closed). Because of that, I do think the tension would need to be pretty tight, so I would want to retain the heavy duty tensioner, and even more of a reason to do #1 to prevent the PS pump flex. 3. When you do the cold side fabrication, would you be willing to try out brazing the aluminum piping with a product like "Alumiweld" sticks from harbor freight (Or many of the others)? I know you'll probably tig weld it, but you're a few months ahead of me for my turbo build and I'd like to see if I can avoid either a mig spool gun+argon or an entire tig setup or making the cold side out of steel instead of AL (So I can use mig) Great video as always, looking forward to more of the build.
Always appreciate the feedback my man! I know, I've been going back and forth on this thing about the tensioner. I am pretty stoked though that I can switch belts with no other modifications so I can test out both and see what needs to be done in the end. For the power steering pump, I genuinely believe this mount will be plenty, and the reason I feel that way is because the Cummins engines the power steering mount is very similar to what I have made, it's only bolted in place with two bolts in a line with each other, and the mount is actually thinner material than what I used, so I don't think there will be any flex happening. Of course, I can always be wrong 😄 For the cold side piping, you're absolutely right I'll be TIG welding the aluminum, but I will say that I have no qualms whatsoever about using mild steel for the cold side piping. I did actually use that on one of my early builds, and you would be hard pressed to convince me that your IAT temps would be significantly higher by doing so.
I'll definitely check it out, but just so you know I'm not under any illusions that this is the most efficient setup 😄. The primary goal here is just to say I did it and make something interesting 👍
First time watching. I think original belt routing will work the best. Not much contact on your alternator so you will have issues with that. I was having issues with a battery on my 91 Miata. Got a new one and still had issues until I found that the alternator belt was lose. That was a headache since you couldn't tell by just looking at it and it was wrapped around like your original version. I know it's not the same car but same issue you may experience having a lot of power and not much contact on the alternator.
Another great modification video. One question is: Exactly what size/length belt will work with this setup? You have modified the belt path so much, can you order custom belt sizes for this engine? Also, I feel the balanced belt traversal is the better approach.
Eric I was pleasantly surprised to find out that there are a variety of belt sizes available in the 8 rib configuration! I should have both belts here shortly and can test the fit. 👍
I'd say option 2. That main tensioner should be used as a tensioner not an idler. The intercooler piping will take up the empty space. I've done this type of work and having as much free space as possible is always good. I also feel like the main tensioner will more than make up for the less wrap on the pulleys. I think the water pump belt will also fill in center making it look better. I get that it looks like everything is on the left side of the engine but I just see it as the left side is supercharger and the right side is turbo. that turbo you got is huge and I'd rather have the extra space for oh shit where can I put this part moments.
I should have waited to comment.. The original belt routing IMO is better, you have much more contact on all driven items and it looks significantly better.
I'm a bit late, but would it be possible to do your preferred routing at the alternator/blower, but with the second routing utilizing the tensioner in the lower half?
Wouldn't the final belt tension be limited to which ever tensioner had the least amount of tension anyway? I don't understand the benifit of two tensioners unless one is just to help with belt harmonics?
I thought they looked pretty good myself! They are 2022 Ram E-torque primary tensioner pulleys. They are available separate from the tensioner itself which is nice.
I have a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic that has a Whippled 6.4 Hemi with 12.6psi, I want to do an 8-rib but don't want to spend the $2k for the kit from a certain shop I won't speak of. I have the 18% overdrive ATI balancer installed the ARS 38lb tensioner, I am super curious if any of the etorque accessories will work with my stock Ram timing cover or do I need to buy the Etorque timing cover. I am certain that a Cummins 6.7 8-rib alternator will work with my setup as Whipple includes a bracket to move the factory alternator away from the blower. The Etorque AC compressor should work as well but I am wondering if the Etorque water pump will bolt to my cover. I believe there is a way to eliminate the hydraulic tensioner and mount a idler pulley in its place to help with the belt routing issues. Is there a way to reach out to you?
I thought about it, but the downpipe has to go where the a/c lines are currently, and I likely have to remove the condenser as well to mount radiator fans since the stock ones probably won't fit with the new timing cover setup.
@@ReignitedAuto that makes sense but I guess should you want to at a later date having custom ac lines made up wouldn't be an issue . On the 4th gen rams the ac compressor is located where you're putting the power steering pump.
@@ReignitedAuto I'd appreciate it, im thinking about putting a tvs1900 off a jaguar/range rover on a 5.7 this winter for my belvedere, and id mutch rather have an 8rib belt
😄 I have literally no idea why my brain was struggling so much with that term in that moment, editing the video i was thinking, what is wrong with me? 😄
@@waltergrasmick5615 unfortunately no, I'm removing the a/c to fit everything else. The downpipe is going where the a/c lines are currently, and I'm probably going to have to move the fans in front of the radiator where the condenser is currently.
Pretty nice that the factory alternator bolted right up, saved a bit of time there 👍
Definitely surprised, but I probably shouldn't have been!
1 of 1 build and it is an amazing piece of modern muscle. Cant wait to see how you route the turbos and manifolds
Appreciate you watching Bill! 👊
I agree with you, it had to look symmetrical. I like how you are able to pull in parts from other engines to solve a problem. I think this thing is doing to be do fun to drive.
Let's hope so, I always have these grandiose ideas, but they don't always translate to real life!
I think when it's done you need to take a road trip in it...... I know where you can come. 👍
@@tomcooper920 road trip! 👊
looks tachy... i love it
Thanks for watching!
I wish someone would mass produce manifolds/ adapters like that so more RT guys had different supercharger options. Sick progress man , love the build.
Thanks Jordan, and I appreciate you watching! 👍
I luv ur video, expertise and opinions on things. I was actually about to spend a min of 800 for lifters for my hemi until I watched your videos on lifters. I thought they had failed bcuz the pins were not in sync with the whole on the side of the mds lifters...... thank you!
Keep the videos coming
Sky, I have a few thoughts and one question :)
1. regarding the P/S mount, I'd weld in a small piece of steel perpendicular to the bolt axis, on the front of the mount. It looked like there is a surface where you could have the metal protrusion rest on, and then if you imagine the P/S pump pivoting on the bolt centerline, it would prevent the belt from pulling the P/S pump toward the center of the engine.
2. I don't know how much torque the BAS (GM Term, not sure what the Mopar is "Belt-Alternator-Starter") has, but I would bet you it would be fairly close to the drag caused by the blower when it goes into boost (e.g. the bypass valve is closed). Because of that, I do think the tension would need to be pretty tight, so I would want to retain the heavy duty tensioner, and even more of a reason to do #1 to prevent the PS pump flex.
3. When you do the cold side fabrication, would you be willing to try out brazing the aluminum piping with a product like "Alumiweld" sticks from harbor freight (Or many of the others)? I know you'll probably tig weld it, but you're a few months ahead of me for my turbo build and I'd like to see if I can avoid either a mig spool gun+argon or an entire tig setup or making the cold side out of steel instead of AL (So I can use mig)
Great video as always, looking forward to more of the build.
Always appreciate the feedback my man! I know, I've been going back and forth on this thing about the tensioner. I am pretty stoked though that I can switch belts with no other modifications so I can test out both and see what needs to be done in the end. For the power steering pump, I genuinely believe this mount will be plenty, and the reason I feel that way is because the Cummins engines the power steering mount is very similar to what I have made, it's only bolted in place with two bolts in a line with each other, and the mount is actually thinner material than what I used, so I don't think there will be any flex happening. Of course, I can always be wrong 😄
For the cold side piping, you're absolutely right I'll be TIG welding the aluminum, but I will say that I have no qualms whatsoever about using mild steel for the cold side piping. I did actually use that on one of my early builds, and you would be hard pressed to convince me that your IAT temps would be significantly higher by doing so.
Hey thanks for the shirt,love the blue/green color!
Glad you like it!
Nice! Poor man's hellcat is definitely not a backyard mechanic special. You're putting a lot of thought into this project! 😁
Appreciate the kind words Doug, thanks for watching! 👊
Excellent job Sky! Cannot wait to see the next episode.
Thanks for watching Ottavio 👊
Awesome work. This is modern day hotrodding at its finest. Watching your videos reaffirm my decision to go G3 Hemi in several of my classic cars.
💪👊
Build looks good 👍
Appreciate it my brother!
Intake manifold looks great. Impressive!
Thanks for watching Daniel! 👊
Banks Power ran a turbo and super charger test. The data is worth reviewing. You might save some money on your project.
I'll definitely check it out, but just so you know I'm not under any illusions that this is the most efficient setup 😄. The primary goal here is just to say I did it and make something interesting 👍
Outstanding
Thanks for watching Cesar!
First time watching. I think original belt routing will work the best. Not much contact on your alternator so you will have issues with that. I was having issues with a battery on my 91 Miata. Got a new one and still had issues until I found that the alternator belt was lose. That was a headache since you couldn't tell by just looking at it and it was wrapped around like your original version. I know it's not the same car but same issue you may experience having a lot of power and not much contact on the alternator.
This is BADASS!
Appreciate you watching!
Another great modification video. One question is: Exactly what size/length belt will work with this setup? You have modified the belt path so much, can you order custom belt sizes for this engine? Also, I feel the balanced belt traversal is the better approach.
Eric I was pleasantly surprised to find out that there are a variety of belt sizes available in the 8 rib configuration! I should have both belts here shortly and can test the fit. 👍
I'd say option 2. That main tensioner should be used as a tensioner not an idler. The intercooler piping will take up the empty space. I've done this type of work and having as much free space as possible is always good. I also feel like the main tensioner will more than make up for the less wrap on the pulleys. I think the water pump belt will also fill in center making it look better. I get that it looks like everything is on the left side of the engine but I just see it as the left side is supercharger and the right side is turbo. that turbo you got is huge and I'd rather have the extra space for oh shit where can I put this part moments.
Unfortunately the turbo has to go on the driver's side too 😂
I have the same concern with the alternator. I think the original seems to be a better setup. What about the water pump pulley?
I should have been more clear about that, the water pump is driven by a separate belt off the front of the crank pulley 👍
I should have waited to comment.. The original belt routing IMO is better, you have much more contact on all driven items and it looks significantly better.
Thanks man, we'll see what the results are from running it both ways! 👍
You are a badass 😎. Awesome video, thanks
Thanks for watching my man! 👊
Cool
Thanks for watching Glen! 👊
You will need more belt coverage on the alternator. I liked the first setup better.
I'm a bit late, but would it be possible to do your preferred routing at the alternator/blower, but with the second routing utilizing the tensioner in the lower half?
Are you going to run an electric water pump? I'm not seeing belt routing for the WP
The water pump runs off a separate 3-rib belt on the front of the crankshaft pulley 👍
Wouldn't the final belt tension be limited to which ever tensioner had the least amount of tension anyway? I don't understand the benifit of two tensioners unless one is just to help with belt harmonics?
You're pretty much on the nose there, the secondary tensioner is just there to dampen the belt oscillation from the stop/start function. 👍
Unless you bottom out the weaker tensioner
Won't the true limit to grip on the supercharger pulley be the tensioner not the 8 / 6 rib ?
The secondary tensioner is still pretty strong, but I'll have to see if there is any slip with the first option.
Where did you get those idler pulleys? They look awesome! Needs to upgrade to 8 rib belt on my 14 supercharged hemi because the belt slips constantly
I thought they looked pretty good myself! They are 2022 Ram E-torque primary tensioner pulleys. They are available separate from the tensioner itself which is nice.
Am I blind but was the belt going around the water pump pulley?…Awesome build!!👍🏼…Aloha🤙🏽
The water pump runs off a separate 3-rib belt on the front of the crankshaft pulley 👍
@@ReignitedAuto i just finished the video and had to dig in the comments lol i had the same concern. Thanks for answering
Are autozone nutech heads solid? Asking for a poorer man. 😅
How are you planning on driving the water pump?
The water pump is driven off of a separate belt on the front of the crank pulley 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Good idea.
I have a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic that has a Whippled 6.4 Hemi with 12.6psi, I want to do an 8-rib but don't want to spend the $2k for the kit from a certain shop I won't speak of. I have the 18% overdrive ATI balancer installed the ARS 38lb tensioner, I am super curious if any of the etorque accessories will work with my stock Ram timing cover or do I need to buy the Etorque timing cover. I am certain that a Cummins 6.7 8-rib alternator will work with my setup as Whipple includes a bracket to move the factory alternator away from the blower. The Etorque AC compressor should work as well but I am wondering if the Etorque water pump will bolt to my cover. I believe there is a way to eliminate the hydraulic tensioner and mount a idler pulley in its place to help with the belt routing issues. Is there a way to reach out to you?
Ryan I just checked last night and even though they are very similar the etorque timing cover is unique to that model. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto will the Etorque compressor work on the non Etorque Ram 1500 Hemi such as dimensionally?
Wouldn't it have been better to just get an electric power steering pump so you could still use the ac compressor?
I thought about it, but the downpipe has to go where the a/c lines are currently, and I likely have to remove the condenser as well to mount radiator fans since the stock ones probably won't fit with the new timing cover setup.
@@ReignitedAuto that makes sense but I guess should you want to at a later date having custom ac lines made up wouldn't be an issue . On the 4th gen rams the ac compressor is located where you're putting the power steering pump.
You have a part number for that 8rib balance?
I might have the paperwork from when I bought it, I'll take a look and see if I can track it down.
@@ReignitedAuto I'd appreciate it, im thinking about putting a tvs1900 off a jaguar/range rover on a 5.7 this winter for my belvedere, and id mutch rather have an 8rib belt
A/C compressor ?
😄 I have literally no idea why my brain was struggling so much with that term in that moment, editing the video i was thinking, what is wrong with me? 😄
Are you planning on having A/C in the car? You didn't put a compressor in there unless I missed it.
@@waltergrasmick5615 unfortunately no, I'm removing the a/c to fit everything else. The downpipe is going where the a/c lines are currently, and I'm probably going to have to move the fans in front of the radiator where the condenser is currently.
Really should go with electric water pump.
If you don't want to run a power steering pump off the engine buy a Volvo electric power steering pump from eBay they're like 120 Canada and up