I like seeing budget builds. Alot of tricks can be done to stock parts to bring out power. Get a scupting disc for an angle grinder and bevel the rear tires to make them bite. Port the intake and exhaust, and shave the head. Easy to do on a flathead. Cut it down alot then measure clearance of valves and use a router or die grinder to open up clearance. You can shave the head with a good flat table and sand paper. (I used a belt sander and took off 110 thousands, then trued up the head with flat table and sand paper). Then mark the valve stems inside the intake and exhaust and put them in a drill press and use another grinder and spin down the stems. It will allow more air to flow through. Not too much will weaken it. You can stack washers under valve springs to tighten them up, not too many they might bind. Turn over the engine by hand and check clearance, (a valve compressor off ebay is handy to get springs compressed, 28.00 I spent). Might want to machine out the rod for a steel sleeve.Or bearing they call it.(Most auto parts stores or O'Reilly's or machine shop should be able to do it.) I used to tractor pull. I done that work to a kohler k321 or 12hp it made over 20hp.I put a 16 hp carb on as well, and a 10hp head. (Higher compression, some put LP gas heads on, I was told they don't flow as well, I had one but it didn't seem to make alot of difference, the 10hp head has bump between valves to increase compression and still let it flow, 12 hp don't) I pulled it against ported and shaved head 16hp kohler and 16hp briggs cast iron tractors and beat them by far. Alot of things can be done. You can pick up kohler 26mm and 30mm carbs on ebay cheep. They work well for replacement carbs for alot of engines. Might have to make your own linkage. (Bicycle cable works well.) Order for kohler k321 (12hp)for 26mm, and k361(16hp) for 30. Might have to get into a bit, and purchase a steel flywheel. I never ran one. But took a chance of injuring someone everytime I pulled. I bought a bunch of stuff to rebuild the 12 hp and do more work. I didn't put a aftermarket rod in or machine the rod out for bearing and the engine locked up. Rod locked to crank.(the one thing from above I didn't do, thought of it, I was thinking how much more power can I possibly make. A 16 hp has the same type rod and they work well. Apparently made more power than I thought. It thumped at an idle.) I have been thinking of getting it going again to let my 10 year old daughter drive it. This time I will machine the rod out for bearing or get aftermarket rod. Kohler is the best to go with for pulling. The old cast stuff anyway. They have actually bearings holding the crank. Most of all the other engines don't. And if you can find an old cub they work well.(another thing redo front axle and drop the front end down, it makes it tougher to pull it up, use light weight front tires too, your weight needs to be on the tractor, I used like wheel barrel tires for a while, the light weight ones, the big pullers use aluminum wheels for a purpose, not just pretty.) I know how to rebuild the clutches in the old cubs cheep.( I can send you info and how to do it). Our club was a cheep club for few years till things began to progress and people started doing more and more. You will learn alot. It's better to put the weight low and infront of your rear tires and use a weight bar that slides out. Just a small amount of weight 3 feet infront of the tractor makes alot. Kinda like a cheeter bar on a wrench. Might make a belly slide bar to move the weights from rear forward underneath the tractor. It's crucial to be able to move weights around, 5 or 10 lbs moved from front to back will win or loose. You want to keep the front tires on the ground as much as possible and float at the end. (I had a buddy that put a weight pan under his tractor and at the end he used the mower deck handle to lower it, it would hook up and go on, they said nothing in the rules against it. You really want to keep rear tires light as well to keep them spinning. (Some had wheel weights, I was told that's not good in tractor pulling). I used to talk with big pullers to get advice. Have fun and good luck
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I like seeing budget builds. Alot of tricks can be done to stock parts to bring out power. Get a scupting disc for an angle grinder and bevel the rear tires to make them bite. Port the intake and exhaust, and shave the head. Easy to do on a flathead. Cut it down alot then measure clearance of valves and use a router or die grinder to open up clearance. You can shave the head with a good flat table and sand paper. (I used a belt sander and took off 110 thousands, then trued up the head with flat table and sand paper). Then mark the valve stems inside the intake and exhaust and put them in a drill press and use another grinder and spin down the stems. It will allow more air to flow through. Not too much will weaken it. You can stack washers under valve springs to tighten them up, not too many they might bind. Turn over the engine by hand and check clearance, (a valve compressor off ebay is handy to get springs compressed, 28.00 I spent). Might want to machine out the rod for a steel sleeve.Or bearing they call it.(Most auto parts stores or O'Reilly's or machine shop should be able to do it.) I used to tractor pull. I done that work to a kohler k321 or 12hp it made over 20hp.I put a 16 hp carb on as well, and a 10hp head. (Higher compression, some put LP gas heads on, I was told they don't flow as well, I had one but it didn't seem to make alot of difference, the 10hp head has bump between valves to increase compression and still let it flow, 12 hp don't) I pulled it against ported and shaved head 16hp kohler and 16hp briggs cast iron tractors and beat them by far. Alot of things can be done. You can pick up kohler 26mm and 30mm carbs on ebay cheep. They work well for replacement carbs for alot of engines. Might have to make your own linkage. (Bicycle cable works well.) Order for kohler k321 (12hp)for 26mm, and k361(16hp) for 30. Might have to get into a bit, and purchase a steel flywheel. I never ran one. But took a chance of injuring someone everytime I pulled. I bought a bunch of stuff to rebuild the 12 hp and do more work. I didn't put a aftermarket rod in or machine the rod out for bearing and the engine locked up. Rod locked to crank.(the one thing from above I didn't do, thought of it, I was thinking how much more power can I possibly make. A 16 hp has the same type rod and they work well. Apparently made more power than I thought. It thumped at an idle.) I have been thinking of getting it going again to let my 10 year old daughter drive it. This time I will machine the rod out for bearing or get aftermarket rod. Kohler is the best to go with for pulling. The old cast stuff anyway. They have actually bearings holding the crank. Most of all the other engines don't. And if you can find an old cub they work well.(another thing redo front axle and drop the front end down, it makes it tougher to pull it up, use light weight front tires too, your weight needs to be on the tractor, I used like wheel barrel tires for a while, the light weight ones, the big pullers use aluminum wheels for a purpose, not just pretty.) I know how to rebuild the clutches in the old cubs cheep.( I can send you info and how to do it). Our club was a cheep club for few years till things began to progress and people started doing more and more. You will learn alot. It's better to put the weight low and infront of your rear tires and use a weight bar that slides out. Just a small amount of weight 3 feet infront of the tractor makes alot. Kinda like a cheeter bar on a wrench. Might make a belly slide bar to move the weights from rear forward underneath the tractor. It's crucial to be able to move weights around, 5 or 10 lbs moved from front to back will win or loose. You want to keep the front tires on the ground as much as possible and float at the end. (I had a buddy that put a weight pan under his tractor and at the end he used the mower deck handle to lower it, it would hook up and go on, they said nothing in the rules against it. You really want to keep rear tires light as well to keep them spinning. (Some had wheel weights, I was told that's not good in tractor pulling). I used to talk with big pullers to get advice. Have fun and good luck
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