Proud to confirm these numbers (e.g. 45.000km (43.000k for my) waxed Cassette and 15.000km (12.000k for my) waxed chain). I stick with Oz Cycle since early stage of candle wax with petroleum times around 2018.This approach to give HUGE contribution to the world wide cycling community is awesome. The pure attitude to bring us these detailed information of how to do chain wax WITHOUT any commercial interests is very rare these days. It must be - sorry it is: PASSION! Thanks a lot! Best regards, Ralf Venske (Biker) GERMANY. YES.
@@stevenleffanue yes, sure. I see you as the "father" for modern cycling waxing without expensive effort, but passion. Time by time the mixture getting better and better (see the last improvement while ratio of PTFE has been change from 1:10 to 1:20). At least - I was wondering the last appr. 6 years that a good guy from Australia recommended me, home town Hagen (Germany) a chain (Connex Wippermann) produced in Hagen-Delstern, where Wippermann is located since decades. Funny and a clue that our world wide cycling community works great.
since the first OZ video about chain waxing, I tried it and can confirm it works better than I expected. I've been using one chain for the third season and I'm so bored with it that I want something new, but I can't change it because I measure it and it's still like new.😂 
Isn't it great how a selfless bicycle enthusiast from Australia shared good experience and knowledge with a bicycle fan from distant Lithuania, whose chain has always been heavy, long-lasting, quiet, easy to clean, and costs practically nothing. Best wishes and thanks for sharing 👌
I have followed your channel for about 4 ½ years. I'm a chemist/ biochemist by training. Started back when you said candle wax worked ok with PTFE at 1:10 ratio (1.6µM particle size ). I run 2 chains, rotate after 300 to 400 km traveled. I'm still using the original wax mixture after some 40+ dippings. Each chain has ~8,500km and well under 0.5% wear. Chain rings and cassett have traveled ~17,000km. Have optimize the temperature melting temperatures. Raise solid wax temperature up to 80 to 85°C, dropping the chain in and agitating gently to observe the displacement of air by the formation of bubbles on the liquid wax surface. Letting the mixture cool to just below 70°C, remove chain and let drain. Very little of the wax chips off as you're getting it ready to ride or during your rides. Flexing the chain links while the wax is still warm makes it very easy to hand move all the links and once again avoid flaking. (zen and art of home chain waxing ). For a while I cleaned chain between waxing with boiling water, but Zero Friction youTube channel revealed this is not necessary if riding conditions are dry on tarmac or asphalt. Which brings me to the environmental aspect of using Teflon. Kudos on reducing PTFE ( PTFE teflon , PFAS polyfluoalkyl substance ) in your waxing mixture. Teflon is a miraculous material. It is use to replace hips, biologically inert and extremely safe for long term exposure. Also great where low friction, durability, are factor also fire resistant. Problem is when it's done and finished. It's horrible in the environment Think freon over the Antartica depleting ozone, asbestos and lungs, lead (Pb) and brains. It literally breaks down into the individual molecules, and there' are no bacteria or fungus that can break it down further. The stuff goes right through cell membranes. It's water fearing or hydrophobic and water loving (hydrophilic)like soap and it dissolved into fats, and just like DTT. It is in the air, land and water every where we looked (Antartica , Himalayas ) Where I live , it is at lower concentration than down east at Camp Lejuene NC. It has actually worked into the water supply, the air and land. The military used PFAS foaming compounds to practice putting out jet fuel fires. Textile industry, which put the PFAS onto fabric to prevent it from staining or making water repellent (ie Gore-Tex ). Also used to coat food packaging, which comes in contact with your food, and you can bet that some transfers in to the food you you eat. It's everywhere in eastern North Carolina. The groundwater is now so badly contaminated that it's not safe to drink. At this time no obvious way reasonably inexpensive way to clean it up for drinking. It's causing cancer in children and adults who live at Camp Lejuene NC NOW. US Department of Defense released report this 31 January 2024 about the extent of exposures and fall out . I would just suggest that you add in your next video that people dispose of their finished wax , chains, chain rings and cassettes carefully. wrap them up . Safe disposal and not introducing more into environment is the safest action. Anything that will prevent more PFAS/PTFE from leaching into environment is good thing. Thanks for your channel.
PTFE makes the best chain lube additive .As you say its not good uncontrolled. At this point in time people have the choice to use ptfe or some other additive in their chain waxing. If and when it is banned or stopped production it will be history as the best lubricant. Thanx for your experience.
@@stevenleffanueI would argue that people have the choice NOT to use PTFE as a chain wax additive. Instead of polluting the places you like to ride in, you can just not use it. Why wait for a slow government to finally take action, when you yourself can make difference.
PTFE is inert and persistent. There are many other PFAS that are indeed toxic, but PTFE isn't part of it. Just through a quick google search, I found many sources stating PTFE is safe to digest. That was mainly stated talking about non-stick pans. As you know, it takes a lot of energy to break the C-F bound and unless you use radiation or high heat it won't break down. There are some good points, but those toxins don't have anything to do with PTFE. Lead, asbestos and DTT are indeed really toxic but nothing compared to PTFE. And even if it gets disposed by burning it in a factory won't make a bigger difference to emissions from burning other plastics. Adding some disclaimer to the use of all the organic solvents for chain cleaning and those disposals would be far more valid. Assuming the PTFE decreases the need for rewaxing your chain and lengthening the lifespan compared to vanilla parafin wax, it could actually be better for the environment.
Do you know how well this would translate to motorcycle use? There's obviously more power and speed involved, but the chain is substantially larger so the pressures exerted might be somewhat similar.
@@DonziGT230 Head over to Zero Friction Cycling to ask. The guy running the tests is legit, in fact he is the authority when it comes to comparing bike lubes. He will have an answer for you (idk myself). OZ Cycle was sent to prison for torturing and killing a dog, and what he does is super helpful, but not scientific.
I switched to your method of waxing 3 years ago now , you have saved me hundreds of of dollars . Thank you for all your research and time putting in all the work . And at no charge to me wow free good information . Your awesome
When I returned to cycling I found yor long video about cleaning and waxing a chain. I also found the videos about using different lubrication for dey day, wet days, summer, and winter. That was too much. I felt the waxing would be a good all around use material so I gave it a try. I have never looked back! Easy to take care of. Easy to clean up. Easy to re-apply. Thanks for this close look at the links and the update to the ratios.
I personally found that molybdenum disulfide is far superior to PTFE, easily get over a 1000Km before rewaxing. As a perk, far safer on the environment without all the horrific production pollution of PTFE.
PTFE is one of the most toxic substances, and it’s a forever chemical. Nasty stuff. I wish it would be banned worldwide. So you use it a chain. Then the chain wears out, and ends up in the landfill…along with the PTFE, which then enters the water table. NOT COOL.
In certain high temp situations, WS2 is better, but in a bicycle they are effectively the same. Unless of course you ride in 200C temps or higher.@@albr4
I bought Molten Speedwax because my ptfe powder order from China was rejected by customs because it was considered a banned material. I'm waiting the end of the winter to start the waxing. Thank you for sharing detailed informations.
My bike has 3x7 gearing so chains and cassettes are much cheaper to replace (chain $10 U.S., 7 speed cassette under $25). I've recently switched to wax only, no additives because PTFE is bad for environment. Tip for extending life of chainring: when it is worn (chain skipping) you can remove and rotate the chainring 90 degrees relative to pedals then reattach. This will let you use the relatively unworn teeth that weren't used much during the power portion of your pedaling stroke. Or you can just flip the chainring around 180 degrees so the chain contacts the opposite side of the teeth. These may or may not work depending on how your chainring attaches.
@@meibing4912 Yes! Also, 7 speed requires less dish on rear wheel, a plus for heavy riders (I'm 210 pounds) who break spokes. Also, fewer speeds means the gears and chain are wider/thicker which presumably slows wear. My only complaint is I don't like the large jumps between gears. I would prefer a custom cassette with 28-24-21--19-18-17-16. I'm 62 years old and don't need high gears for speeds over 22 mph or so.
hey i just doing wax and beginners in waxing chain, is it okay just use parrafin and oil setup to waxing ur chain? and after cycling under normal rain is it must to immediately rewaxing ? and can i use wax that i cook for the first time for waxing?
@@dizhamrl4386 you cannot mix oil and wax at all. Zero oil if you wax. Wiping down chain down immediately after rain is usually enough. I also wipe with mineral spirits to get the last moisture off. If you have been riding in heavy rain for a long time you should either rewax or top up with Silca top up wax or make your own top up vax.
This is such excellent, data-backed content. I cannot overstate how much I appreciate your work here. Plus using hard evidence to prove that the commodity product performs as well (or at least nearly as well) as the expensive, marketed-to-death one (*ahem* Silca), is absolutely commendable. In this case it makes the practice of chain waxing more viable long term (and more accessible) as nobody's dependent on some brand to keep making a product with a proprietary formulation.
Thank you for sharing your valuable experience and the recipes for this great homemade wax. Your waxing videos are really special with all the long-term experience and the details you put into them. Especially in times when others praise and present more products than I can use, a DIY recipe with simple yet effective ingredients is rare and all the more valuable. For the first time I have now prepared two chains using your instructions and am now looking forward to the coming season. I can hardly wait. Thank you so much.
Thx for the video! Had mixed results with graphite-wax on my e-mtb. Thought graphite would be better for the environment and was easy obtainable. But if PTFE lasts that longer, it might be the better option. I got about 1000km till i hit the 0.5% mark. With oiled chains i didn't note down the mileage, but i think it was about 500-700km per chain. Now i got hope, i could reach noticeable improvements with PTFE. Reaching 1,4-2x the mileage is in my opinion not really worth the hassle. But i'm eager to try PTFE. Have allready ordered it.
Many years ago I came across a forum post by a mechanical engineer explaining that the pressures experienced by a chain are extreme point pressures, very similar to manual gearbox gears meshing. Being an engineer myself that made perfect sense so I experimented with a 50:50 ratio of parafin wax with Hypoid EP gear oil (I use the highest viscosity available) for the (clean) chain bath. Gently heat the wax and gear oil, submerge the clean chain and leave to cool. Once solidified, remove excess wax from the outside of the chain and refit on bike. Periodically apply gear oil with a toothbrush to alleviate rust. It's not the cleanest solution but it works incredibly well! I don't have the facility to scientifically test it so it would be amazing if you'd be able to compare this method with the others. Cheers!
Thanx for your input with oil. Unfortunately, oil attracts dirt, which can eventually make its way inside the chains workings and cause abrasion. That's the main reason additives to chain waxes are usually dry powders.
Kudos for highlighting chain waxing to the community a boon for a clean drivechain As others have mentioned PTFE and its production parent PFAS have known environmental issues/problems - just do a Google search. Many countries are now either in process of banning PTFE/PFAS or have banned. Interestingly, some years back, other commercial chain wax products moved away from PTFE. Just saying
Agreed re non-stick cookware, interestingly a bunch of non-stick cookware has moved to removal of PFOA and PTFE. Likewise, an alternative move toward ceramic non-stick coatings away from PFOA and PTFE. As you say worthwhile to keep an ear to the ground.
@@stevenleffanue Given that there are alternatives that aren't harmful, shouldn't we use alternatives? Which is what all bike wax sellers have been doing.
PTFE is totally unnecessary and terrible for environment. With my 9 and 10 spd bikes i can get 300-400km between rewaxing with pure paraffin wax (starts to get noisy). I can also get 10,000-15,000 km out of chain (0.75 wear with park tool chain checker)
the chain on my wife's bicycle can withstand 15,000 km, and the same chain on my bicycle 6,000 km, and they are maintained the same way, how, why😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@makantahi3731 You could try changing bikes for some time and see if the wear happens on her bike. If so, it's probably weight-related. Are you heavy? Or you have a hella pair of legs, very powerful while she doesn't.
@@LLF1234 thanks. my comment was aimed at the main comment that on clean wax the chain can last 300km between waxings or 15000km in total. I am a former cyclist (champion...) and after 30 years of retirement I can still produce 500w for a few seconds, or at least 300w for longer, I weigh 82kg, while my wife weighs 52kg and I doubt she can produce more than 250w at a few seconds or over 150w continuously. how long the chain will last with the same (good) maintenance depends on how much it is mistreated with great forces.(for same chain quality)
Love your channel. ❤Yesterday I made my 1st bottle of liquid wax using naphtha and following your instructions. WOW was that a lot of work. I think I’ll just scoop out 1/3 of a bottle of liquid wax from my crock pot the next time I need a bottle of liquid wax verses shaving candles and mixing it with naphtha, which seem to take forever. Thanks again for helping out this “rookie” rider improve my cycling while maintaining my bike. Cheers
I have found out best way to prep new chain is: Batch 1: Clean chain with paper towel from extra oil. Melt pure paraffin, low oil content, candles without smell, melt and leave oiled chain in it for 3 to 4 hours, shake chain every 30 minutes, keep it warm all time, molten. After 4 hours take chain off, let wax drip off, make sure batch 2 a this point is ready, dip chain into batch 2. Batch 2: As above + 5g 1.6micron PTFE, keep it low oil content, lock oil in first batch. 30 minutes and few shakes are enough, take out when mix starts skinning, neary no wax will drop off from chain, quickly wipe it with clean rug and you can mount to bike.
Thank you for the effort you have put into the wax project. I shifted to wax years back thanks to your channel and I am not looking back. I was looking for alternative to oil as I never liked the idea of it, how quick it gets dirty and how dirty you get just from looking at it. I still do candle wax + PTFE as good wax is hard to get in small quantities, but it works perfect.
thanks for your inspiration, just prepared the new bike of my wife with a waxing setup, she will ride only on dry weather. Girls love clean bike 😅. And my traveler with new SRAM mullet setup will be also equipped with a waxed chain. Don’t forget to show your tip with a waxing bottle with mixed wax/alcohol for longer events. I just thinking about to take a spare chain or a waxing bottle for my longer 1000km ultra races this year 👍
You tought me all about chain waxing in previous videos. I followed your adivces and I am amazed how good it works although I have to rewax evey 150km. Probably my ptfe powder is not fine enough. Anyway a big thanks to you. That changed a very big part of my cycling life. I am awed by your microscope pictures. Thank you so much!
Nice video giving some details/visuals about what is happening at the micro level. Been waxing since I saw your videos years ago and initially found it a bit much but with time you come into the ease of getting it done, realize some great tips about getting several chains to cycle through, and using instant pot pressure cooker for waxing; much bigger footprint even though the wife gives me side eye every time I use it 😀...Several friends have changed their chain rings in that time while still making fun of me "that's an ol' mans gimmick". Well after putting some up front money on extra chains, wax (cheap) everything has worked out for me. The biggest plus is the only I save on soap to clean off the chain tattoos everyone else still get 😛
Hi from France, Very interesting video. I have done yesterday my first try to waxing chain, with graphite. I have read that graphite is good in presence of water.
20:1 initial ratio, then re-wax at 100:1 - does this ratio apply irrespective of how thoroughly you clean the chain? Or is the assumption to re-wax once the chain is cleaned only using the hot water method? Great info, data collection/analysis. We appreciate you blazing this trail for the home brew chain wax crew.
Hello Oz, thank you for sharing your wisdom, I have been waxing the chain with your method for three years and my last bike has 20,000 km with the same chain with hardly any wear, your method is wonderful.
Very interesting to see wear under a microscope. I'm riding MSW Wax new formula on a dura ace 11s chain since 10000km. My wearchecker says 0,35 so still plenty of life left till 0,5-0,6. I ride in rain and salty winter roads too, after that it always gets rewaxed. Otherwise I rewax around 150-200km, sometimes a bit more, without the chain sounding really dry. So I'm happy with it, seems to work very well too. I need around half of a msw puck /year, but didn't weigh it exactly. So it takes a while, but if its gone i will try a ptfe wax. Against most advice i don't let it cool down a lot. Just heat the wax till 90°C, wiggle the chain, let it rest for 5min and take it out, let it dry. That way there is not so much wax on the outside that flakes off.
Excellent Video and having previously followed your advice on this topic I have found it spot on. It has made a huge difference to my cycling. Thank you I was watching GCN's recent clip on the latest tech at the TDU. Interestingly, he made special mention that none of the teams appeared to be using wax in preference to oil.
Sponsorship and chains come oiled so less preparation. They can put a new chain on for every stage if they like. The pros will go wax on road soon tho , just a matter of time as more and more chain manufacturers yield to consumer demand of wax.
I think when a chain is waxed as recommended by this channel, then the actual lubricant is not the wax but the PTFE. The wax just acts as the carrier to put the PTFE into the space inside the links of the chain so that it can do it's lubrication job, and it protects the outside of the chain from rust. For that reason I think that it is imperative than when a new chain is waxed for the first time, you have to maximise the amount of PTFE that gets into the heart of the chain. Firstly by agitating the wax & PTFE mixture so that as much PTFE is in suspension, and none is settled on the bottom of your wax melting container, and secondly by pre-warming the chain in a cool oven so that it is above the wax melting point, so that it can suck the wax & PTFE suspension into those interior spaces via capillary action, without the wax freezing when it hits the cold chain. I think that if you don't do those two things when you first wax a new chain you will likely get lower performance, and would be advised to fully clean the chain (with gasoline etc) and start again.
Amazing! I just got new chains (3 for road bike and 3 for Gravel Bike) and will start proper care. Thank you for amazing instructions! Will be doing a Mud Race in the spring, on my gravel bike, 75km. Could you please advise whether is Waxed chain still better option then wet lubed and what is the best way to prepare it for such a condition? Thank you so much for great help!
I've been doing this for some years now after finding this channel and it's made life and cycling so much easier. So many companies with expensive waxing products trying to cash in too! The only thing better is the Gates Carbon belt on my mountain bike. That's only been hosed clean after each ride for over 2 years. 😋
"Within the EU, five member states (Sweden, Germany, Denmark, Netherlands, Norway) are working on a restriction that aims to ban the use of all PFAS, about 5,000 substances, except for “essential uses”. The definition of PFAS used in this restriction includes fluoropolymers, such as PTFE."
EXACTLY! So I'm not alone asking people not to use this "Forever Chemical". Not only it doesn't react with other chemicals (does not degrade), it causes CANCER! PTFE is the Devil's spit!
@@georgec2894 I quoted from an article without proofreading what they said! 😱 As Mario said, they should have written EEA. Anyway, the point is the safety of PTFE is becoming more and more dubious each day and I am not a big fan of advocating its use in chain waxing. There are other chain wax chemistries that provide enough performance to satisfy the cycling public.
Have you done any studies of bike chain materials? Wide range of prices for chains would seem to indicate different metals are used and therefore different wear rates.
I saw your video's and started waxing my chains with paraffin and PTFE. I'm very interested how the chains will hold up. Thank you for the great content. I also experienced a broken chain link exactly how you explained it. Even if I do not crosschain normally. It was a KMC 11s chain. I like the Shimano chains more.
Great video, i want to add that i usually do drip lube wax and it goes for as far as 400km before it need re-waxing, that's more than enough for me, anyway both PTFE and normal wax are better than normal oil
So, sorry if I missed that part, but how long do you recommend between waxing your chain? And, what do you do regarding powerlink/chain connectors? Manufacturers do not recommend reusing them as far as I'm informed.?
I’ve just started using this on my two bikes. One an Ebike and one a hard tail trail bike. The trail bike has a brand new chain and the Ebike is already stretched. I’m monitoring my mileage so will be interesting to see if this works
Fantastic work looking from a microscopic perspective to understand the wearing surfaces of a chain and how the PTFE gets in. I use this system on my mountain bike chain and it works great. There is nothing for the dirt to stick to, just the hard wax, and a stiff brush cleans the chain and cassette - easy. I do have a question about the components that make up the chain in this video. On my chain the OUTER plates are flat and the INNER plates have the raised centres on which the roller runs. The video has these named opposite. The roller does not run on the pin but on the opposing raised centres of the inner plates. Or am I missing something?
It's difficult to tell which link plate is which under the microscope however you are correct.... flanged link is the inner , flat is outer. Yes , the roller runs on the flanges of the inner plates not on the pin. The wear marks on the pin are from the inner plate which rotates on the pin.
hey nice videos and explanations you do - if you're looking for a wire that you can make the chain hanger from, look no further than the spokes in your drawer…
I have switched to Candle wax 2 weeks ago and so far very happy with the result. Can we use micro crystalline wax instead of paraffin wax as it is supposed to be more elastic, sticks better and less brittle but slightly more viscous?
Hi, all the comments seem to be positive yet I have had negative results. I had high hopes for waxed chains after watching all your videos about them. I bought Pelleted Paraffin Wax, a wax heater pot and PTFE 1.6 microns from aliexpress. The first batch I tried was 250g wax to 250ml paraffin oil to 25g PTFE. I swished the chain around, let it sit in the completely melted wax solution for half an hour and no more bubbles came out of the chain. I took it out at around 53 degrees Celsius. I hung it up overnight and ran the chain over my thumb to remove excess wax on the outer links of the chain. It was perfect for the first ride with magical smoothness and no dirt sticking to the chain whatsoever. However it the wax formed on the inner and outer links only lasted about two rides before somehow being removed or worn off from the chain. I tried another batch without the paraffin oil which made the chain last about 3 rides. On todays ride, the wax was completely worn off in the inner and outer links so much that the chain first started making a "zip" sound with every crank revolution, a classic sound of a chain with no lubrication, and then become so devoid of lubrication that it constantly squeaked. I can hear the metal on metal contact of the chain rollers as I run my finger over them. The chain also had a lot of rust from yesterdays rain, something that hardly happens with oil chain lubes. I have also found the wax drip lube to be equally disappointing. I ground up wax pellets with a mortar and pestle and added a pinch of PTFE in a 100ml bottle with small nozzle and dissolved this in the maximum volume of white spirit. It took days to completely dissolve. I know there is the maximum amount of wax and PTFE dissolved as undissolved wax bits formed a sediment at the bottom which blocks the nozzle. I used the lubricant after the wax from the wax pot wore off. It lasts about half a ride before being completely washed off, especially in muddy puddles. Then as much dirt sticks to the chain as regular oil lube. My waxed chain lasts about 10km before needing a re-wax. I just installed a new 11 speed drivetrain so neither the chain nor any other component is worn.
@@PurpleShadowDragon Head over to Zero Friction Cycling. You're probably using a crappy wax, & you shouldnt use oil at all. Ideally you wouldn't use PTFE either, but that's a planet thing, not a performance thing.
if the wax quickly peeled off the chain, it means that you did not guess the application temperature, that wax might be good at temperatures above 30C degrees, but if it is colder, just crumble, try adding engine oil to such wax, make a smaller sample of, for example, 100g of wax and 10ml of oil, then when it hardens and cools, check if it's sticky, if it's not, repeat the process until it becomes sticky like a lip balm at ambient temperature, then don't use that wax for that temperature, but the previous ratio that wasn't sticky yet or almost sticky
I have followed your development of chain waxing from the beginning. You have done absolutely fantastic. I have one thing to add that will make your bike feel like a rocket! I used your recipe and added the same amount as the PTFE and added Molybdenum Disulfide. It is a fantastic lubricant and you will feel the difference immediately. It would be interesting if you compared the results to what you have for just wax and PTFE. Good luck and happy cycling 🙂
Thanks for all the effort you put into this and all your other videos they are really useful. I use wax on multiple bikes and rotate chains, so at any one time I probably have 6 chains on rotation. How do you recommend managing that in terms of the pots containing the wax? ie is it better to have one pot for the initial batch for all 6 chains and replace when it goes grey or would it be better to have 3 pots as an example and use each pot for only two chains? Currently I use one pot and typically wax two or three chains at a time and never top up the ptfe during the life of the pot. Which maybe is why my chains don’t see this long lifespan.
A lot of our guys have success with just one pot for multiple chains. The key to chain longevity is to clean them before putting in the wax. If you're having problems keeping the wax clean you could try giving the chains a rinse in white spirits or shellite before rewaxing. It's a fuss I know but your chains will be cleaner than with the hot water rinse.
Hello Oz, I have been waxing the chains of all our bicycles for over a year now, and I am extremely happy with the results. Since I am using graphite instead of PTFT I am not quite sure when to change or rewax. One chain has 200 km and is still running smoothly. What do I listen for? Do I have to listen very carefully or is it something I just can't miss, like, say, skeletons dancing on a tin roof? When is the right time?
Yes , many times. The chain makes a dry,metallic sound. This means it has run out if the wax within the links. This wears the chain links very quickly.
Really enjoyed this instructional video. No bullsh*t about fractions of watts faster, just so about drive train life, which matters much more to 99% of us. I do have trouble getting the PTFE to mix though as it floats...
A chinese scientist in the USA added Silica to PTFE and achieved a further reduction in abrehasion of 40-60% on stinless steel. Does anybody ever added Silica to the PTFE chain wax mixture ?
Another very informative video, thanks for sharing. I’m looking to use your recipe for homemade wax and noted you suggest using naphtha as the carrier. What are your thoughts on substituting naphtha with IPA (ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 99.9% purity)? Would that be as effective as a carrier? Thanks 👍
Yes , IPA works well but you will need to heat IPA and wax up gently to melt point of the wax , 60 - 70degC. Once wax is liquid shake the bottle and it becomes a mixture
@@stevenleffanue brilliant. thank you for the reply and advice. Ordered some IPA yesterday and just ordered some paraffin wax and PTFE. I’ve been using Molten Speed wax for the last few months but it’s costly compared to this DIY option. Thanks again for your help 👍
I've given up on chains in spite of your genius use of PTFE transported into the links with paraffin. Perhaps a chain manufacturer will make a chain with it bonded to the parts just like Teflon cookware and eliminate any maintenance whatsoever, even allowing it to get wet from rain and the dirt just wash off of it. Even then though, I'm betting on the Gates belt system. I put 7000 miles on the one on my Turi from Priority Bicycles and replaced the crankset sprocket because it was creaking, it had worn "cups" on the torque sides of the teeth. When I got the new sprocket I replaced the belt with the one I had as a spare and had never used: *_It looked like new, just like the 3 year-old brand new one I was replacing it with!_* Even if that Teflon chain is ever made, I doubt they will be able to make it that durable. I've since bought a "600" from Priority and it uses the Gates belt too with a Pinion C.12 crankset gearbox. The Turi has an Enviolo rear hub, 300% ratio. The "600" *_is_* the ratio of the Pinion. Both bikes are fun to ride and neither of them needs adjustments of any kind. The shift cables don't need adjustments and both of them are bullet proof. Just ride and wash them off from time-to-time. Seriously, 3 years on my Turi and all I ever did to it was wash it. I'm sure racing will still require the derailleur for many years, maybe forever because of it's unmatched efficiency, but to me (I'm an auto mechanic) it's a little like the guy that has a 1968 Jaguar with points and a carburetor and solid lifters, all that need periodic adjustments, and he loves working on it every month or two. But I'm retired now and I don't want a bike that I have to keep an eye on, adjust the derailleurs, tweak the cables and inspect it like it was a vintage airplane every time I go for a ride, nor do I want to worry about an accident that will make me have to walk the bike back home. And I guess that's what I'm saying about derailleurs. It's a vintage drive system. Lots of modern add-ons, but the basic system is a dinosaur... ...and a fragile dinosaur at that!
Agree to the point that an exposed drivetrain feels like the wrong solution in the first place. But on the other hand there has been no invention yet that competes in efficiency. And waxing the chain is at least a huge improvement in terms of maintenance, not only less often but especially less dirty. At the end most of us are riding for fun (if not for commuting) and if the fun is improved by less maintenance or by lower friction is a personal preference. For my commuting bike, lowest form of maintenance, especially in winter wins over speed gains. For my fun bike, I don't mind tweaking, taking care, trying different things, changing tires, trying to optimize things (even though I don't really need them) like optimize the waxing formula, basically not having fun only while riding, also while working on the bike as a hobby.
Just as a reference, I switched from PTFE to micronized graphite (10my) as an additive, mostly because PTFE is environmentally extremely harmful, and I feel like my chain is much happier than before. Maybe I just cleaned the new chain more in depth than I did with the PTFE one, but I just spent a week riding through Australia with 600km of riding, of which at least 150 in the pouring rain, and I made it to the end without the typical squeaking noise I would get after about 250k on the PTFE chain.
@@tomaszmilewicz6570 about 100ml to 1,5kg of wax. It gets pretty black of course, but it does not get my hands dirty at all. And it´s basically pure carbon! As environmentally friendly as it gets, and probably on the long run better for your own health as well.
Hi. I have just tried to add teflon to the wax. The teflon melt at much higher temperature. The higher temperature made the chain to turn black. No it seems like that the chain is destroyed :-( Have others experienced that? Maybe it's the chain coating that has been destroyed because of the heat?
Mr Steve Ozcycle you need to be careful! As the manufacturers of chainsets & chain lubes may send someone round to “have a word!” 😂 As these excellent vids of yours must be killing their profits?? Though the makers of rice cookers and PTFE must be really happy with you as their profits must’ve soared!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and information with us. We all really appreciate it. All the cyclists over here are becoming aware of the benefits of PTFE waxing. Great Blessings to you from Dorset, England. 🙏😎👍🏻
May I suggest a minor addition to the rewaxing (not initial waxing ) process? Use a heat gun to warm up the chain and wipe of the excess, including any road grime before putting it into the wax. That way you reduce the contaminantes in the wax.
12:16 it seems that all additives except Teflon make no sense, because even my shimano hg70 chain, which lasted 1000 km on oil, lasts over 6000 km on ordinary wax without additives
To all people out there watching this video! We all know that PTFE is really bad for the environment, so don't use this stuff! Many of the major companies have stopped using this S**** in their products. So you should stop using it, too. Maybe this guy lives in 2008, but the rest of us still moving forward. Best wishes to all of you.
@@stevenleffanue excellent thank you Oz. Can you still use the first batch with it until it's due to be changed? Thanks again, sorry for the extra questions. John
hey @Oz. I do love your videos. I checked your method with my cycling buddies. There are some (heavy) concerns regarding PTFE and its environmental impact. There are talks about banning PTFE in industrial products... so my question to you is, if you've known these debates and if it is really a sustainable component in a chain lube...
Thank you for the info. It is very informative. I keep seeing surface rust from my waxed chains after washing. Do you completely dry them up after washing?
Maybe just dry brush the drivetrain with a soft brush, instead of washing with the rest of the bike. Apparently wax doesn't work too well with humidity, rain, puddles, also freezing temperatures. Same for Squirt and similar products, you need a new pass after every rain. And the sprockets are not protected either...
With so much information available proving that waxing is so much better, efficient, and, very importantly, much cleaner, too. Why aren't bike manufacturers supplying bikes with pre-waxed chains to begin with - and new chains too. How long will it take to stop seeing oil lubes being applied. The vast majority of people who use bikes everyday have no idea about waxed chains unless they're told (obviously not referring to enthusiastic cyclists - however, even among those, including many bike mechanics, still only use oil lubes). Do you, anyone, believe in the future, all chains will be waxed, and we'll stop seeing/hearing the grinding of debris on our chains, plus all the filthy muck associated with oil lubes. Thank you for sharing all this very useful information - not least the bits where we can economize by doing it ourselves - as opposed to splash out on some very costly wax products on the market. I must admit, I'm new to all this - just purchased all the necessary products to properly clean the muck off my chainset parts, and then apply hot wax, plus making liquid wax for topping up/reapply. I've been cycling 1000km approx a month, all weather conditions, surfaces etc, for the past year or so - one becomes very sensitive to all unhealthy noises on the bike - grinding debris on chain parts is one of them. Cheers👍🚲
For the ordinary bike rider , we all have some sort of oil in the house....almost any oil will lube a bicycle chain...it's quick n easy. However, you are correct. Wax is the superior lube but at present expensive compared to oil.
So why don't you mix them together like most wax producers do? Molten speedwax use WS2 and MoS2, frictionfacts recipe uses MoS2 + paraffin. Personally I use WS2 + PTFE as I believe that WS2 is better than MoS2.
It's the percentage of a chains length....so .5% longer than when brand new. So it took 15,000km for the chain to reach .5% longer than when brand new.
Amazing work Oz. Thanks so much. But unfortunately if you live somewhere where it rains, and you cycle for getting around from A to B, not for weekend outings, then the whole concept of waxing your chain is just not practical at all 😢. Or is it? Maybe you could do a video on that? But I think the answer is pretty much no, it is not practical. Cheers! JB
Hi Garry what percentage percentage of wax to PTFE to tungsten disulfide is your mix? I’ve been thinking about doing the tungsten disulfide also but I wasn’t sure what percentage or grams to add to the mix. Thx Jake
@@stevenleffanue I’m just waxed my chain follow your instruction, and ‘bout to deep clean my cassette. I live in SouthEastAsia, the humidity is very high here, what should I do to prevent cassette from rust.? Big thanks for your reply.!
@@stevenleffanue Is there any particular one, silicone spray is a very general term sir.! 🥲 Hope you do a content about cassette treatment before waxing chain, someday. I do my research, and there no one talking ‘bout it. Or it easier than I thought.? Just degrease and clean it is enough.?
i try many chain PYC KMC ENLEE TOPREE SHIMANO SRAM. the best durable Chain is Dura ace Shimano and KMC X, the worst is enlee and topree, the middle PYC SRAM.
Oh my God I'm sad I wax my chain pretty much once a week roughly 100km. I use ptfe with graphite. Do you think the graphite is a waste of money and time?
Hey Steven, may I raise an additional question? - Despite the long lasting experience in chain waxing (2019), I need your opinion for a very long ride of appr. 3,500km to Sweden and Norway this summer. The problem is the rain - very often and heavy. I can take the "mobile chain wax" with me, but I suppose I can not carry as much as needed for this trip. What do you mean? Should I go back to oil only for this period? Normally, I take a second chain with me... but in this case 40-50days this will not really a solution... Thanks, Ralf
Good question. You could go back to using oil or refill the wax bottle when in a town with candle wax disolved in white spirits or shellite if they have it there?
@@stevenleffanue I will take a bottle wax-refill - 'OZ Cycle' receipt - with me and check out whether and how many days to 'survive' in Norway. Later, when cycling season in Australia will restart in October I will report. Thank you for your kind reply and advice in this context. Ralf.
@ralfhenning-venske6764 When in Australia you are welcome to visit me. We have a great bunch of friendly riders here. Hit me up on Facebook messages or instagram when here 👍
@@stevenleffanue Thank you very much. I am following "Coast Cruisers" since years (Ralf Venske Biker... ) and would appreciate this incl. a special "Ralf's ride - Coast 2 Coast"... ;-) -> Thank you Steven!
Very thorough and well explained, thank you. I do have a question about the PTFE though. Part of it ends up in the environment and that is a problem. Not for your wallet but for nature and future generations. How do you relate to this issue?
@@JoakimGarde I was joking, but you are "eating" PTFE everyday, it's also called Teflon and you have that on cooking/frying pana in almost any kitchen.... So it's NOT killing that many people - world's population is rising as fast as ever!
@@mircozelle weight, because you cannot simply measure the mass, but you can measure the weight. substances of different density of the same weight have different mass due to the hydrostatic buoyancy of air
12:18 my chain shimano hg70 life on pure wax is 6000km on my bike and additional 2-3000km on my wifes bike , what is 6-9 times on oil, my rewax interval is 100km or before, so it seams that your rewax intervals of 300km for WS2, MOS2 and Graphite are too long , reduce it on half and must be some gain in chain life
@@stevenleffanue for some general conditions, it is unusual that anti-friction additives give a shorter chain life than wax without these additives, but over a period of 100 km, it is logical that the repetition of waxing with these additives should be more frequent, because according to scientific data, ws2 is the strongest additive when it is in oil. try to test one chain with that additive every 200km, it should extend the life of the chain
Hello, why dont you mention the grease converter powder you use on the other video ? Is it mendatory or not ? Its a replacement for the paraffin oil you used some years ago ? thanks
Do you have any metrics for 12 speed (1x) MTB setups? Would this process/formula work just as well (considering our chains get hammered by dust/mud/water/etc.)? Also, what is the cleaning process/interval? E.g. Rinse the chain with water, allow to dry & dust off with a dry brush, etc?
Exactly the same as with road. If riding in wet conditions, wipe chain dry with microfibre cloth before storing the bike or rewax the chain if required.
I also use wax, but think that when the temperature is above 30° it doesn't last very long. Are there paraffin pellets that have a higher melting point?
@@stevenleffanue I use paraffin pelet, 56° and ptfe. But after 120km I have sound on chain. It is in 30+° If I use it in 18+° it's working for 260km.. And sound begin after that. °C of course
Each time I tune in I leave with something new. Thanks. OK let’s discuss about what gram quantity of PTFE do we use per chain? So we don’t waste money on it unused. Your advice?
Hi, i have been using Oz's formula for years now and love it. However i do notice big differences between parafin wax grades. Some have been poor and don't last long. Anyone know which is best? Eg there is kerawax 4600 pillar blend and 422. These are both refined and have low oil content. I also find when i bought the ptfe and wax as a kit off ebay the results are not as good, so now i buy separately and not on ebay.
What am I doing wrong!? I live in the UK, ride in all conditions. I follow this process pretty much to the letter and even re-wax after any wet ride by cleaning in hot water and then wax in my pot. I re-wax every chain at around 200k if it’s stayed dry, this is all road riding as well. No matter what I do and what chain brand I use (KMC, Shimano or Wipperman) they always seem to hit 50% worn before 3000km. I’ve never got anywhere near the figures that are typically suggest. I’ve also done similar with Silca wax and got similar results. The only benefit I seem to get is just the cleanliness but at a cost of waxing most weeks and all the faff that goes with it. I’ve been through 7+ chains and over 20000km of riding on waxed chains so this isn’t like I’ve had a quick stab at this. Any suggestions?
I think the main difference is Australian vs. UK weather. Especially cold and salt. I used OZ's method in Denmark, where the weather is very comparable to the UK, and I needed to completely strip the chain for every rewax, which would be after about 150 km. (Petrol 12 hours, then degreaser 30 min, then isopropyl alcohol for some seconds with shaking for each step). I also needed to mix the wax with parafin oil to make it stick and not be too noisy. I stayed away from PTFE powder as my conscience could not bear that. I now use drip on wax instead and find it to be easier in practise, especially since I don't have a power source in the garage. Squirt and Effetto Mariposa Flower Power have no PTFE. I have three chains for one bike which i circulate so that a clean and lubed one is always ready after cleaning the bike. I still clean the chain in petrol+degreaser+isopropyl alcohol, however I might switch to only degreaser in summer time.
Thanks both for the advice. I only use the wipperman sx chains, mainly because of the quick link. I do leave. The chains in the melted wax, in a slow cooker for well over an hour so the wax should certainly be all the way through. I also take the chain out as close to cold as possible so that there is as much left inside as possible (I dont know if I actually need to do that). I certainly haven’t changed my wax mixture and it’s now looking grey so maybe I should start again and follow the more updated method. For me personally using this home brew or Silca wax I typically see the same results in lifespan of chains. I have also tried adding an amount of paraffin into another pot for winter conditions but that didnt seem to stay on the chain even one ride. I guess, start again with fresh stuff and try the new method and see what happens! Thanks
@@emooooooo2036 I forgot to say that the initial preparation before the first wax is really important (petrol 12 hours, degreaser 30min, shake, then isopropyl alcohol, and it must be clear, otherwise start over). Also preparing the rest of the drivetrain to make sure it's completely clean. I use citrus degreaser with a small brush first and then “gear floss”, especially for the cassette and pulley wheels. It needs to be done regularly, too, as oil can make it from the road grime up onto your bike. If your wax is getting gray, there certainly is some contamination. One thing you can do for your next batch is have a sieve inside the melting pot to keep the chain off the bottom. The dirt will usually collect at the bottom, thus making it less likely to go into your chain. Good luck! 👍🏻
@@SimonHBSi also did a good cleaning as you suggested for my 1st waxing and the parafin wax i used is still clean pure white visually so i guess I cleaned it right but i prefer using a new chain that will save. More time less cleaning i am not mixing any other additives but using squirt drip lube , as in my country only silca brand wax is available and its cost around 3000INR+18% taxes pretty expensive for only 500gm also Indian weather in the capital is mostly dry in winter and in summer so only the dirt here is the culprit and i hate riding in rain and on wet roads so i am gonna rewax on next 1000km in bw gonna top up the wax, wax main enemy is moisture and here it's already less good thing for me :-P
EDIT: Such a great amount of information here! Thank you for all of it. I now can understand better the whole mechanics behind the benefits and the mechanics behind wax use. this method is far better overall than the elite waxes out there and far more cost effective!!! (My Previous comment) Wax is great and I use it, but I think it's not worth the cost in the long run. I mean, a chain is 30-40€, so it's better to change a chain a bit sooner than go mad about it with crazy expensive waxes....
I paid aud $25 for 5kg of pure paraffin wax from eBay. I have used less than 1.5kg in 7 years across 7 bikes (100,000km +). There is no cheaper lube. Edit: My chains last three times longer now too.... at least 10,000 to 15,000km
great video as usual. The chain of my bike (Canyon Pathlite 6 2022 model, and Canyon Roadlite 6 2023 model) is a 12 speed chain. The issue with those is that there is an official quick link available, yes, from Shimano, but it's not reusable. And there aren't reusable alternatives, afaik, so I use your waxing method creating a bottle of lube for now (with ligroin as a carrier and candles' wax). PTFE is kinda banned where I live so I don't mix it with the ligroin and wax, and gotta look for an alternative, but I am not in a hurry
I reuse my chain link the whole chain life. Also i do so on a mountain bike were there is a lot of tension and cross chaining going on. So when i calculate 10000km / 160km (most of my rides are around 80km, sometimes more and i rewax more or less every second ride), i opened and closed the shimano 11s link around 60 times. It still needs more than enough force with the pliers to be opened or closed. You just have to be careful always lining up the plates correctly.
@@stevenleffanue If you melt it together in a small proportion you should just get a slightly softer wax. You can search google scholar for "parafin pdms superhydrophobic" for a number of papers on the combination.
Proud to confirm these numbers (e.g. 45.000km (43.000k for my) waxed Cassette and 15.000km (12.000k for my) waxed chain). I stick with Oz Cycle since early stage of candle wax with petroleum times around 2018.This approach to give HUGE contribution to the world wide cycling community is awesome. The pure attitude to bring us these detailed information of how to do chain wax WITHOUT any commercial interests is very rare these days. It must be - sorry it is: PASSION! Thanks a lot! Best regards, Ralf Venske (Biker) GERMANY. YES.
Nice to hear your experience Ralf. You have obviously seen how chain waxing has become popular since 2018.
Cheers...Steven
@@stevenleffanue yes, sure. I see you as the "father" for modern cycling waxing without expensive effort, but passion. Time by time the mixture getting better and better (see the last improvement while ratio of PTFE has been change from 1:10 to 1:20). At least - I was wondering the last appr. 6 years that a good guy from Australia recommended me, home town Hagen (Germany) a chain (Connex Wippermann) produced in Hagen-Delstern, where Wippermann is located since decades. Funny and a clue that our world wide cycling community works great.
since the first OZ video about chain waxing, I tried it and can confirm it works better than I expected. I've been using one chain for the third season and I'm so bored with it that I want something new, but I can't change it because I measure it and it's still like new.😂

Isn't it great how a selfless bicycle enthusiast from Australia shared good experience and knowledge with a bicycle fan from distant Lithuania, whose chain has always been heavy, long-lasting, quiet, easy to clean, and costs practically nothing. Best wishes and thanks for sharing 👌
I have also been using connex wiperman products for a year now!@@ralfhenning-venske6764
I have followed your channel for about 4 ½ years. I'm a chemist/ biochemist by training. Started back when you said candle wax worked ok with PTFE at 1:10 ratio (1.6µM particle size ). I run 2 chains, rotate after 300 to 400 km traveled. I'm still using the original wax mixture after some 40+ dippings. Each chain has ~8,500km and well under 0.5% wear. Chain rings and cassett have traveled ~17,000km. Have optimize the temperature melting temperatures. Raise solid wax temperature up to 80 to 85°C, dropping the chain in and agitating gently to observe the displacement of air by the formation of bubbles on the liquid wax surface. Letting the mixture cool to just below 70°C, remove chain and let drain. Very little of the wax chips off as you're getting it ready to ride or during your rides. Flexing the chain links while the wax is still warm makes it very easy to hand move all the links and once again avoid flaking. (zen and art of home chain waxing ). For a while I cleaned chain between waxing with boiling water, but Zero Friction youTube channel revealed this is not necessary if riding conditions are dry on tarmac or asphalt.
Which brings me to the environmental aspect of using Teflon. Kudos on reducing PTFE ( PTFE teflon , PFAS polyfluoalkyl substance ) in your waxing mixture. Teflon is a miraculous material. It is use to replace hips, biologically inert and extremely safe for long term exposure. Also great where low friction, durability, are factor also fire resistant. Problem is when it's done and finished. It's horrible in the environment Think freon over the Antartica depleting ozone, asbestos and lungs, lead (Pb) and brains. It literally breaks down into the individual molecules, and there' are no bacteria or fungus that can break it down further. The stuff goes right through cell membranes. It's water fearing or hydrophobic and water loving (hydrophilic)like soap and it dissolved into fats, and just like DTT. It is in the air, land and water every where we looked (Antartica , Himalayas ) Where I live , it is at lower concentration than down east at Camp Lejuene NC. It has actually worked into the water supply, the air and land. The military used PFAS foaming compounds to practice putting out jet fuel fires. Textile industry, which put the PFAS onto fabric to prevent it from staining or making water repellent (ie Gore-Tex ). Also used to coat food packaging, which comes in contact with your food, and you can bet that some transfers in to the food you you eat. It's everywhere in eastern North Carolina. The groundwater is now so badly contaminated that it's not safe to drink. At this time no obvious way reasonably inexpensive way to clean it up for drinking. It's causing cancer in children and adults who live at Camp Lejuene NC NOW. US Department of Defense released report this 31 January 2024 about the extent of exposures and fall out . I would just suggest that you add in your next video that people dispose of their finished wax ,
chains, chain rings and cassettes carefully. wrap them up . Safe disposal and not introducing more into environment is the safest action. Anything that will prevent more PFAS/PTFE from leaching into environment is good thing. Thanks for your channel.
PTFE makes the best chain lube additive .As you say its not good uncontrolled. At this point in time people have the choice to use ptfe or some other additive in their chain waxing. If and when it is banned or stopped production it will be history as the best lubricant.
Thanx for your experience.
@@stevenleffanueI would argue that people have the choice NOT to use PTFE as a chain wax additive. Instead of polluting the places you like to ride in, you can just not use it. Why wait for a slow government to finally take action, when you yourself can make difference.
PTFE is inert and persistent. There are many other PFAS that are indeed toxic, but PTFE isn't part of it. Just through a quick google search, I found many sources stating PTFE is safe to digest. That was mainly stated talking about non-stick pans. As you know, it takes a lot of energy to break the C-F bound and unless you use radiation or high heat it won't break down. There are some good points, but those toxins don't have anything to do with PTFE. Lead, asbestos and DTT are indeed really toxic but nothing compared to PTFE. And even if it gets disposed by burning it in a factory won't make a bigger difference to emissions from burning other plastics. Adding some disclaimer to the use of all the organic solvents for chain cleaning and those disposals would be far more valid. Assuming the PTFE decreases the need for rewaxing your chain and lengthening the lifespan compared to vanilla parafin wax, it could actually be better for the environment.
Do you know how well this would translate to motorcycle use? There's obviously more power and speed involved, but the chain is substantially larger so the pressures exerted might be somewhat similar.
@@DonziGT230 Head over to Zero Friction Cycling to ask. The guy running the tests is legit, in fact he is the authority when it comes to comparing bike lubes. He will have an answer for you (idk myself). OZ Cycle was sent to prison for torturing and killing a dog, and what he does is super helpful, but not scientific.
I switched to your method of waxing 3 years ago now , you have saved me hundreds of of dollars . Thank you for all your research and time putting in all the work . And at no charge to me wow free good information . Your awesome
When I returned to cycling I found yor long video about cleaning and waxing a chain. I also found the videos about using different lubrication for dey day, wet days, summer, and winter. That was too much. I felt the waxing would be a good all around use material so I gave it a try.
I have never looked back! Easy to take care of. Easy to clean up. Easy to re-apply.
Thanks for this close look at the links and the update to the ratios.
I personally found that molybdenum disulfide is far superior to PTFE, easily get over a 1000Km before rewaxing. As a perk, far safer on the environment without all the horrific production pollution of PTFE.
WS2 is better than MOS2 though, google the differences between the two, WS2 has slightly lower friction and has better corrosion resistance.
What ratio do you use?
PTFE is one of the most toxic substances, and it’s a forever chemical. Nasty stuff. I wish it would be banned worldwide. So you use it a chain. Then the chain wears out, and ends up in the landfill…along with the PTFE, which then enters the water table. NOT COOL.
About 1 heaping table spoon of MoS2 per. That is an ordinary spoon, not a measuring spoon. 250g@@goepfert1992
In certain high temp situations, WS2 is better, but in a bicycle they are effectively the same. Unless of course you ride in 200C temps or higher.@@albr4
Thanks so much, cant even imagine how much money I saved waxing the chain the last 100tkm
I bought Molten Speedwax because my ptfe powder order from China was rejected by customs because it was considered a banned material. I'm waiting the end of the winter to start the waxing. Thank you for sharing detailed informations.
That's good, shouldn't be throwing Teflon power into the environment
What country banned PTFE?
@@dextertech6570most of eu countries
My bike has 3x7 gearing so chains and cassettes are much cheaper to replace (chain $10 U.S., 7 speed cassette under $25). I've recently switched to wax only, no additives because PTFE is bad for environment.
Tip for extending life of chainring: when it is worn (chain skipping) you can remove and rotate the chainring 90 degrees relative to pedals then reattach. This will let you use the relatively unworn teeth that weren't used much during the power portion of your pedaling stroke. Or you can just flip the chainring around 180 degrees so the chain contacts the opposite side of the teeth. These may or may not work depending on how your chainring attaches.
3x7 was really a great combo. Pity weight and constant adjustments made it obsolete.
@@meibing4912 Yes! Also, 7 speed requires less dish on rear wheel, a plus for heavy riders (I'm 210 pounds) who break spokes. Also, fewer speeds means the gears and chain are wider/thicker which presumably slows wear.
My only complaint is I don't like the large jumps between gears. I would prefer a custom cassette with 28-24-21--19-18-17-16. I'm 62 years old and don't need high gears for speeds over 22 mph or so.
hey i just doing wax and beginners in waxing chain, is it okay just use parrafin and oil setup to waxing ur chain? and after cycling under normal rain is it must to immediately rewaxing ?
and can i use wax that i cook for the first time for waxing?
@@dizhamrl4386 Sorry, I don't know the answers to your questions.
@@dizhamrl4386 you cannot mix oil and wax at all. Zero oil if you wax. Wiping down chain down immediately after rain is usually enough. I also wipe with mineral spirits to get the last moisture off. If you have been riding in heavy rain for a long time you should either rewax or top up with Silca top up wax or make your own top up vax.
This is such excellent, data-backed content. I cannot overstate how much I appreciate your work here. Plus using hard evidence to prove that the commodity product performs as well (or at least nearly as well) as the expensive, marketed-to-death one (*ahem* Silca), is absolutely commendable. In this case it makes the practice of chain waxing more viable long term (and more accessible) as nobody's dependent on some brand to keep making a product with a proprietary formulation.
Thank you for sharing your valuable experience and the recipes for this great homemade wax. Your waxing videos are really special with all the long-term experience and the details you put into them. Especially in times when others praise and present more products than I can use, a DIY recipe with simple yet effective ingredients is rare and all the more valuable.
For the first time I have now prepared two chains using your instructions and am now looking forward to the coming season. I can hardly wait. Thank you so much.
Thx for the video! Had mixed results with graphite-wax on my e-mtb. Thought graphite would be better for the environment and was easy obtainable. But if PTFE lasts that longer, it might be the better option.
I got about 1000km till i hit the 0.5% mark. With oiled chains i didn't note down the mileage, but i think it was about 500-700km per chain.
Now i got hope, i could reach noticeable improvements with PTFE.
Reaching 1,4-2x the mileage is in my opinion not really worth the hassle.
But i'm eager to try PTFE. Have allready ordered it.
Many years ago I came across a forum post by a mechanical engineer explaining that the pressures experienced by a chain are extreme point pressures, very similar to manual gearbox gears meshing. Being an engineer myself that made perfect sense so I experimented with a 50:50 ratio of parafin wax with Hypoid EP gear oil (I use the highest viscosity available) for the (clean) chain bath. Gently heat the wax and gear oil, submerge the clean chain and leave to cool. Once solidified, remove excess wax from the outside of the chain and refit on bike. Periodically apply gear oil with a toothbrush to alleviate rust. It's not the cleanest solution but it works incredibly well! I don't have the facility to scientifically test it so it would be amazing if you'd be able to compare this method with the others. Cheers!
Thanx for your input with oil. Unfortunately, oil attracts dirt, which can eventually make its way inside the chains workings and cause abrasion. That's the main reason additives to chain waxes are usually dry powders.
Kudos for highlighting chain waxing to the community a boon for a clean drivechain
As others have mentioned PTFE and its production parent PFAS have known environmental issues/problems - just do a Google search. Many countries are now either in process of banning PTFE/PFAS or have banned. Interestingly, some years back, other commercial chain wax products moved away from PTFE. Just saying
Meantime, we all eat from our non-stick frypans. Hopefully there will be a major change soon...keeping an ear to the ground
Agreed re non-stick cookware, interestingly a bunch of non-stick cookware has moved to removal of PFOA and PTFE. Likewise, an alternative move toward ceramic non-stick coatings away from PFOA and PTFE. As you say worthwhile to keep an ear to the ground.
@@stevenleffanue Given that there are alternatives that aren't harmful, shouldn't we use alternatives? Which is what all bike wax sellers have been doing.
Yes. Next wax video includes alternatives....approximately same ratios with paraffin wax
PTFE is totally unnecessary and terrible for environment. With my 9 and 10 spd bikes i can get 300-400km between rewaxing with pure paraffin wax (starts to get noisy). I can also get 10,000-15,000 km out of chain (0.75 wear with park tool chain checker)
Exactly, PTFE is a horrible forever chemical; I suggest people google it, it shouldn't be sold imo.
are u sure about that?
the chain on my wife's bicycle can withstand 15,000 km, and the same chain on my bicycle 6,000 km, and they are maintained the same way, how, why😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@makantahi3731 You could try changing bikes for some time and see if the wear happens on her bike. If so, it's probably weight-related. Are you heavy? Or you have a hella pair of legs, very powerful while she doesn't.
@@LLF1234 thanks. my comment was aimed at the main comment that on clean wax the chain can last 300km between waxings or 15000km in total. I am a former cyclist (champion...) and after 30 years of retirement I can still produce 500w for a few seconds, or at least 300w for longer, I weigh 82kg, while my wife weighs 52kg and I doubt she can produce more than 250w at a few seconds or over 150w continuously. how long the chain will last with the same (good) maintenance depends on how much it is mistreated with great forces.(for same chain quality)
Love your channel. ❤Yesterday I made my 1st bottle of liquid wax using naphtha and following your instructions. WOW was that a lot of work. I think I’ll just scoop out 1/3 of a bottle of liquid wax from my crock pot the next time I need a bottle of liquid wax verses shaving candles and mixing it with naphtha, which seem to take forever. Thanks again for helping out this “rookie” rider improve my cycling while maintaining my bike. Cheers
I have found out best way to prep new chain is:
Batch 1: Clean chain with paper towel from extra oil. Melt pure paraffin, low oil content, candles without smell, melt and leave oiled chain in it for 3 to 4 hours, shake chain every 30 minutes, keep it warm all time, molten. After 4 hours take chain off, let wax drip off, make sure batch 2 a this point is ready, dip chain into batch 2.
Batch 2: As above + 5g 1.6micron PTFE, keep it low oil content, lock oil in first batch. 30 minutes and few shakes are enough, take out when mix starts skinning, neary no wax will drop off from chain, quickly wipe it with clean rug and you can mount to bike.
Thank you for the effort you have put into the wax project. I shifted to wax years back thanks to your channel and I am not looking back. I was looking for alternative to oil as I never liked the idea of it, how quick it gets dirty and how dirty you get just from looking at it. I still do candle wax + PTFE as good wax is hard to get in small quantities, but it works perfect.
thanks for your inspiration, just prepared the new bike of my wife with a waxing setup, she will ride only on dry weather. Girls love clean bike 😅. And my traveler with new SRAM mullet setup will be also equipped with a waxed chain. Don’t forget to show your tip with a waxing bottle with mixed wax/alcohol for longer events. I just thinking about to take a spare chain or a waxing bottle for my longer 1000km ultra races this year 👍
I'm interested to see how paraffin with ptfe copares with the branded chain wax Silca. Cheers
Thank you so much for your contents. A valuable contributtion to all bike lovers. The world needs more people like you. Thank you!
You tought me all about chain waxing in previous videos. I followed your adivces and I am amazed how good it works although I have to rewax evey 150km. Probably my ptfe powder is not fine enough. Anyway a big thanks to you. That changed a very big part of my cycling life. I am awed by your microscope pictures. Thank you so much!
Nice video giving some details/visuals about what is happening at the micro level. Been waxing since I saw your videos years ago and initially found it a bit much but with time you come into the ease of getting it done, realize some great tips about getting several chains to cycle through, and using instant pot pressure cooker for waxing; much bigger footprint even though the wife gives me side eye every time I use it 😀...Several friends have changed their chain rings in that time while still making fun of me "that's an ol' mans gimmick". Well after putting some up front money on extra chains, wax (cheap) everything has worked out for me. The biggest plus is the only I save on soap to clean off the chain tattoos everyone else still get 😛
Hi from France,
Very interesting video. I have done yesterday my first try to waxing chain, with graphite. I have read that graphite is good in presence of water.
20:1 initial ratio, then re-wax at 100:1 - does this ratio apply irrespective of how thoroughly you clean the chain? Or is the assumption to re-wax once the chain is cleaned only using the hot water method? Great info, data collection/analysis. We appreciate you blazing this trail for the home brew chain wax crew.
1st batch you make with 20:1 lasts 2,000-3,000km. Next batch and all following is 100:1 . Rewax is with hot water only , yes.
Hello Oz, thank you for sharing your wisdom, I have been waxing the chain with your method for three years and my last bike has 20,000 km with the same chain with hardly any wear, your method is wonderful.
Wow! 20,000km? What brand chain may I ask?
@@stevenleffanue of course, Shimano, it is the chain that came standard with my Canyon aeroad with the ultegra group, that is if I rewax it every week
Amazing! Thanx for the feedback.
Very interesting to see wear under a microscope. I'm riding MSW Wax new formula on a dura ace 11s chain since 10000km. My wearchecker says 0,35 so still plenty of life left till 0,5-0,6. I ride in rain and salty winter roads too, after that it always gets rewaxed. Otherwise I rewax around 150-200km, sometimes a bit more, without the chain sounding really dry. So I'm happy with it, seems to work very well too. I need around half of a msw puck /year, but didn't weigh it exactly. So it takes a while, but if its gone i will try a ptfe wax. Against most advice i don't let it cool down a lot. Just heat the wax till 90°C, wiggle the chain, let it rest for 5min and take it out, let it dry. That way there is not so much wax on the outside that flakes off.
Great down to earth simple advice. My PTFE arrived today so I'm waxing tonight.
I’d suggest to be careful not to breathe in the dust
Thank you for getting me into waxing chains, its brilliant!
Excellent Video and having previously followed your advice on this topic I have found it spot on. It has made a huge difference to my cycling. Thank you
I was watching GCN's recent clip on the latest tech at the TDU. Interestingly, he made special mention that none of the teams appeared to be using wax in preference to oil.
Sponsorship and chains come oiled so less preparation. They can put a new chain on for every stage if they like. The pros will go wax on road soon tho , just a matter of time as more and more chain manufacturers yield to consumer demand of wax.
@@stevenleffanue are you able to provide a link as to what might be a good supplier of both PTFE and Parrafin?
Ptfe from Aliexpress. Paraffin wax from candles or ebay
I think when a chain is waxed as recommended by this channel, then the actual lubricant is not the wax but the PTFE. The wax just acts as the carrier to put the PTFE into the space inside the links of the chain so that it can do it's lubrication job, and it protects the outside of the chain from rust.
For that reason I think that it is imperative than when a new chain is waxed for the first time, you have to maximise the amount of PTFE that gets into the heart of the chain. Firstly by agitating the wax & PTFE mixture so that as much PTFE is in suspension, and none is settled on the bottom of your wax melting container, and secondly by pre-warming the chain in a cool oven so that it is above the wax melting point, so that it can suck the wax & PTFE suspension into those interior spaces via capillary action, without the wax freezing when it hits the cold chain.
I think that if you don't do those two things when you first wax a new chain you will likely get lower performance, and would be advised to fully clean the chain (with gasoline etc) and start again.
wax lubricates until it breaks apart (0-100km) and then Teflon takes over (over 100)
Excellent information. But how about using multiple sizes of PTFE? Perhaps blend in a little bit of smaller and bigger particles to your 1.6 micron.
Would probably work well but means buying packets of different sizes. Good suggestion tho 👌
Thank you for sharing your research and formulas 🎉
Amazing! I just got new chains (3 for road bike and 3 for Gravel Bike) and will start proper care. Thank you for amazing instructions!
Will be doing a Mud Race in the spring, on my gravel bike, 75km. Could you please advise whether is Waxed chain still better option then wet lubed and what is the best way to prepare it for such a condition?
Thank you so much for great help!
What a great channel❤
Thank you for sharing your fantastic knowledge and experience 🫡🙏🏻❤
I've been doing this for some years now after finding this channel and it's made life and cycling so much easier. So many companies with expensive waxing products trying to cash in too! The only thing better is the Gates Carbon belt on my mountain bike. That's only been hosed clean after each ride for over 2 years. 😋
"Within the EU, five member states (Sweden, Germany, Denmark, Netherlands, Norway) are working on a restriction that aims to ban the use of all PFAS, about 5,000 substances, except for “essential uses”. The definition of PFAS used in this restriction includes fluoropolymers, such as PTFE."
Is Norway a member of the EU then? 😅
EXACTLY! So I'm not alone asking people not to use this "Forever Chemical". Not only it doesn't react with other chemicals (does not degrade), it causes CANCER! PTFE is the Devil's spit!
@@georgec2894 He meant EEA! And EVERY country, Eupean or not, should restrict PTFE (AKA The Devil´s spit).
@@georgec2894 I quoted from an article without proofreading what they said! 😱 As Mario said, they should have written EEA. Anyway, the point is the safety of PTFE is becoming more and more dubious each day and I am not a big fan of advocating its use in chain waxing. There are other chain wax chemistries that provide enough performance to satisfy the cycling public.
Bloody eu, they will ban coffee next! Anyone would think it was a carcinogen!…
A true believer......"Once you try it, you'll never look back'! Thank you for the service you provide to the cycling communities worldwide.
You just made my day. Cheers 🍻
Thank you very much!
Have you done any studies of bike chain materials? Wide range of prices for chains would seem to indicate different metals are used and therefore different wear rates.
I saw your video's and started waxing my chains with paraffin and PTFE.
I'm very interested how the chains will hold up.
Thank you for the great content.
I also experienced a broken chain link exactly how you explained it. Even if I do not crosschain normally. It was a KMC 11s chain. I like the Shimano chains more.
Great video, i want to add that i usually do drip lube wax and it goes for as far as 400km before it need re-waxing, that's more than enough for me, anyway both PTFE and normal wax are better than normal oil
So, sorry if I missed that part, but how long do you recommend between waxing your chain? And, what do you do regarding powerlink/chain connectors? Manufacturers do not recommend reusing them as far as I'm informed.?
Rewax every 300km. Use Connex link , they last the life of the chain.
Amazing work as always!! THANK YOU!!!
I’ve just started using this on my two bikes. One an Ebike and one a hard tail trail bike. The trail bike has a brand new chain and the Ebike is already stretched. I’m monitoring my mileage so will be interesting to see if this works
Fantastic work looking from a microscopic perspective to understand the wearing surfaces of a chain and how the PTFE gets in. I use this system on my mountain bike chain and it works great. There is nothing for the dirt to stick to, just the hard wax, and a stiff brush cleans the chain and cassette - easy.
I do have a question about the components that make up the chain in this video. On my chain the OUTER plates are flat and the INNER plates have the raised centres on which the roller runs. The video has these named opposite. The roller does not run on the pin but on the opposing raised centres of the inner plates. Or am I missing something?
It's difficult to tell which link plate is which under the microscope however you are correct.... flanged link is the inner , flat is outer. Yes , the roller runs on the flanges of the inner plates not on the pin. The wear marks on the pin are from the inner plate which rotates on the pin.
Love your work chap😎
hey nice videos and explanations you do - if you're looking for a wire that you can make the chain hanger from, look no further than the spokes in your drawer…
Or a shitty hanger. I have many more spare hangers than spokes :)
I have switched to Candle wax 2 weeks ago and so far very happy with the result.
Can we use micro crystalline wax instead of paraffin wax as it is supposed to be more elastic, sticks better and less brittle but slightly more viscous?
Should be good, yes.
Hi, all the comments seem to be positive yet I have had negative results. I had high hopes for waxed chains after watching all your videos about them. I bought Pelleted Paraffin Wax, a wax heater pot and PTFE 1.6 microns from aliexpress. The first batch I tried was 250g wax to 250ml paraffin oil to 25g PTFE. I swished the chain around, let it sit in the completely melted wax solution for half an hour and no more bubbles came out of the chain. I took it out at around 53 degrees Celsius. I hung it up overnight and ran the chain over my thumb to remove excess wax on the outer links of the chain. It was perfect for the first ride with magical smoothness and no dirt sticking to the chain whatsoever. However it the wax formed on the inner and outer links only lasted about two rides before somehow being removed or worn off from the chain. I tried another batch without the paraffin oil which made the chain last about 3 rides. On todays ride, the wax was completely worn off in the inner and outer links so much that the chain first started making a "zip" sound with every crank revolution, a classic sound of a chain with no lubrication, and then become so devoid of lubrication that it constantly squeaked. I can hear the metal on metal contact of the chain rollers as I run my finger over them. The chain also had a lot of rust from yesterdays rain, something that hardly happens with oil chain lubes.
I have also found the wax drip lube to be equally disappointing. I ground up wax pellets with a mortar and pestle and added a pinch of PTFE in a 100ml bottle with small nozzle and dissolved this in the maximum volume of white spirit. It took days to completely dissolve. I know there is the maximum amount of wax and PTFE dissolved as undissolved wax bits formed a sediment at the bottom which blocks the nozzle. I used the lubricant after the wax from the wax pot wore off. It lasts about half a ride before being completely washed off, especially in muddy puddles. Then as much dirt sticks to the chain as regular oil lube.
My waxed chain lasts about 10km before needing a re-wax. I just installed a new 11 speed drivetrain so neither the chain nor any other component is worn.
What brand and model chain are you using?
@@stevenleffanue Pelleted Paraffin Wax for Candles
KMC X11.93 Speed Chain for MTB & Road Bike 118 Link Unboxed (Loose)
Wax Warmer Hair Removal Beauty Kit Heater Pot
PTFE Powder 1.6 micron.
@@PurpleShadowDragon Head over to Zero Friction Cycling. You're probably using a crappy wax, & you shouldnt use oil at all. Ideally you wouldn't use PTFE either, but that's a planet thing, not a performance thing.
if the wax quickly peeled off the chain, it means that you did not guess the application temperature, that wax might be good at temperatures above 30C degrees, but if it is colder, just crumble, try adding engine oil to such wax, make a smaller sample of, for example, 100g of wax and 10ml of oil, then when it hardens and cools, check if it's sticky, if it's not, repeat the process until it becomes sticky like a lip balm at ambient temperature, then don't use that wax for that temperature, but the previous ratio that wasn't sticky yet or almost sticky
I have followed your development of chain waxing from the beginning. You have done absolutely fantastic.
I have one thing to add that will make your bike feel like a rocket! I used your recipe and added the same amount as the PTFE and added Molybdenum Disulfide. It is a fantastic lubricant and you will feel the difference immediately.
It would be interesting if you compared the results to what you have for just wax and PTFE.
Good luck and happy cycling 🙂
Olá boa noite! Qual proporção você usa de wax , ptfe e mos2?
Hi, I'm new here but isn't PTFE considered a "Forever Chemical " and bad ?
Thanks for all the effort you put into this and all your other videos they are really useful. I use wax on multiple bikes and rotate chains, so at any one time I probably have 6 chains on rotation. How do you recommend managing that in terms of the pots containing the wax? ie is it better to have one pot for the initial batch for all 6 chains and replace when it goes grey or would it be better to have 3 pots as an example and use each pot for only two chains?
Currently I use one pot and typically wax two or three chains at a time and never top up the ptfe during the life of the pot. Which maybe is why my chains don’t see this long lifespan.
A lot of our guys have success with just one pot for multiple chains. The key to chain longevity is to clean them before putting in the wax. If you're having problems keeping the wax clean you could try giving the chains a rinse in white spirits or shellite before rewaxing. It's a fuss I know but your chains will be cleaner than with the hot water rinse.
Hello Oz, I have been waxing the chains of all our bicycles for over a year now, and I am extremely happy with the results. Since I am using graphite instead of PTFT I am not quite sure when to change or rewax. One chain has 200 km and is still running smoothly. What do I listen for? Do I have to listen very carefully or is it something I just can't miss, like, say, skeletons dancing on a tin roof? When is the right time?
PTFE is 300km...not sure with graphite but would guestimate about 200km.
But have you ever tried to go past the 300 km? What exactly happens? Is the wax gone?
Yes , many times. The chain makes a dry,metallic sound. This means it has run out if the wax within the links. This wears the chain links very quickly.
Really enjoyed this instructional video. No bullsh*t about fractions of watts faster, just so about drive train life, which matters much more to 99% of us.
I do have trouble getting the PTFE to mix though as it floats...
If you put your chain in and swish it the ptfe should mix in well.
A chinese scientist in the USA added Silica to PTFE and achieved a further reduction in abrehasion of 40-60% on stinless steel. Does anybody ever added Silica to the PTFE chain wax mixture ?
Can you provide link to the proof?
Great video as usual. thanks
I have watched your waxing tutorials but Can i still wax a used chain? It's a bit rusty, so are there any other steps i should do before waxing?
Measure to see if the wear is less than .5% . Remove rust as best you can.
Still using my Shimano XTR chain after 20k km using squirt lube and using ultrasonic cleaner 👍
Another very informative video, thanks for sharing. I’m looking to use your recipe for homemade wax and noted you suggest using naphtha as the carrier. What are your thoughts on substituting naphtha with IPA (ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 99.9% purity)? Would that be as effective as a carrier? Thanks 👍
Yes , IPA works well but you will need to heat IPA and wax up gently to melt point of the wax , 60 - 70degC. Once wax is liquid shake the bottle and it becomes a mixture
@@stevenleffanue brilliant. thank you for the reply and advice. Ordered some IPA yesterday and just ordered some paraffin wax and PTFE. I’ve been using Molten Speed wax for the last few months but it’s costly compared to this DIY option. Thanks again for your help 👍
ua-cam.com/video/-oyNX6-CCMw/v-deo.htmlsi=79d8gxLMA4p7kd3v
@@stevenleffanue thank you for that link, missed that video 😉 Exactly what I’m after 👍
I've given up on chains in spite of your genius use of PTFE transported into the links with paraffin. Perhaps a chain manufacturer will make a chain with it bonded to the parts just like Teflon cookware and eliminate any maintenance whatsoever, even allowing it to get wet from rain and the dirt just wash off of it.
Even then though, I'm betting on the Gates belt system. I put 7000 miles on the one on my Turi from Priority Bicycles and replaced the crankset sprocket because it was creaking, it had worn "cups" on the torque sides of the teeth. When I got the new sprocket I replaced the belt with the one I had as a spare and had never used: *_It looked like new, just like the 3 year-old brand new one I was replacing it with!_* Even if that Teflon chain is ever made, I doubt they will be able to make it that durable.
I've since bought a "600" from Priority and it uses the Gates belt too with a Pinion C.12 crankset gearbox. The Turi has an Enviolo rear hub, 300% ratio. The "600" *_is_* the ratio of the Pinion. Both bikes are fun to ride and neither of them needs adjustments of any kind. The shift cables don't need adjustments and both of them are bullet proof. Just ride and wash them off from time-to-time. Seriously, 3 years on my Turi and all I ever did to it was wash it.
I'm sure racing will still require the derailleur for many years, maybe forever because of it's unmatched efficiency, but to me (I'm an auto mechanic) it's a little like the guy that has a 1968 Jaguar with points and a carburetor and solid lifters, all that need periodic adjustments, and he loves working on it every month or two. But I'm retired now and I don't want a bike that I have to keep an eye on, adjust the derailleurs, tweak the cables and inspect it like it was a vintage airplane every time I go for a ride, nor do I want to worry about an accident that will make me have to walk the bike back home.
And I guess that's what I'm saying about derailleurs. It's a vintage drive system. Lots of modern add-ons, but the basic system is a dinosaur...
...and a fragile dinosaur at that!
Agree to the point that an exposed drivetrain feels like the wrong solution in the first place. But on the other hand there has been no invention yet that competes in efficiency.
And waxing the chain is at least a huge improvement in terms of maintenance, not only less often but especially less dirty.
At the end most of us are riding for fun (if not for commuting) and if the fun is improved by less maintenance or by lower friction is a personal preference.
For my commuting bike, lowest form of maintenance, especially in winter wins over speed gains.
For my fun bike, I don't mind tweaking, taking care, trying different things, changing tires, trying to optimize things (even though I don't really need them) like optimize the waxing formula, basically not having fun only while riding, also while working on the bike as a hobby.
Just as a reference, I switched from PTFE to micronized graphite (10my) as an additive, mostly because PTFE is environmentally extremely harmful, and I feel like my chain is much happier than before. Maybe I just cleaned the new chain more in depth than I did with the PTFE one, but I just spent a week riding through Australia with 600km of riding, of which at least 150 in the pouring rain, and I made it to the end without the typical squeaking noise I would get after about 250k on the PTFE chain.
Anyway this technique works perfectly. Thanks OZ for all the precious videos!
And also, I don´t get dirty by touching the chain... Let´s see how long the chain will go for, but I am happy with it.
Interesting! Have been using ptfe for years now. Where do you buy the graphite (10my) from?
How much graphite do you add to wax?
@@tomaszmilewicz6570 about 100ml to 1,5kg of wax. It gets pretty black of course, but it does not get my hands dirty at all. And it´s basically pure carbon! As environmentally friendly as it gets, and probably on the long run better for your own health as well.
Hi. I have just tried to add teflon to the wax. The teflon melt at much higher temperature. The higher temperature made the chain to turn black. No it seems like that the chain is destroyed :-( Have others experienced that? Maybe it's the chain coating that has been destroyed because of the heat?
You are a bike wizard!
Mr Steve Ozcycle you need to be careful! As the manufacturers of chainsets & chain lubes may send someone round to “have a word!” 😂 As these excellent vids of yours must be killing their profits?? Though the makers of rice cookers and PTFE must be really happy with you as their profits must’ve soared!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and information with us. We all really appreciate it. All the cyclists over here are becoming aware of the benefits of PTFE waxing.
Great Blessings to you from Dorset, England. 🙏😎👍🏻
Nice to hear your experience. Hi to all your cycling buddies 🖐
May I suggest a minor addition to the rewaxing (not initial waxing ) process? Use a heat gun to warm up the chain and wipe of the excess, including any road grime before putting it into the wax. That way you reduce the contaminantes in the wax.
Yes , that's one way. Or rinse in a seive with boiling water.
12:16 it seems that all additives except Teflon make no sense, because even my shimano hg70 chain, which lasted 1000 km on oil, lasts over 6000 km on ordinary wax without additives
To all people out there watching this video!
We all know that PTFE is really bad for the environment, so don't use this stuff!
Many of the major companies have stopped using this S**** in their products. So you should stop using it, too.
Maybe this guy lives in 2008, but the rest of us still moving forward.
Best wishes to all of you.
Great!! Thank you!
Happy New Year, mate
Hi Oz,
Thank you again for the updated video, ir is amazing!
Do you only need to use the Oil Solidifier on the first batch of Wax?
Thanks again,
John
The oil solidifier is essentially to 'degrease' or 'prepare' the chain so that the wax will stick to the metal of the chain from then onwards.
@@stevenleffanue excellent thank you Oz.
Can you still use the first batch with it until it's due to be changed?
Thanks again, sorry for the extra questions.
John
@JohnJez Yes. You should get about 3,000km worth , then time to start new batch without the oil solidifier.
Thank you, it's very kind of you for all the help.
hey @Oz. I do love your videos. I checked your method with my cycling buddies. There are some (heavy) concerns regarding PTFE and its environmental impact. There are talks about banning PTFE in industrial products... so my question to you is, if you've known these debates and if it is really a sustainable component in a chain lube...
There are many additives to choose from. Ptfe is the most efficient chain lube additive. You are free to choose.
Thank you for the info. It is very informative. I keep seeing surface rust from my waxed chains after washing. Do you completely dry them up after washing?
After hot water rinse put chain straight into the hot wax...wax will replace the water.
@@stevenleffanueThanks but I can't do re-waxing everytime when I wash my bikes. I meant after bike washing.
Wax is waterproof so your chain shouldn't rust. Otherwise remove chain when washing bike.
@@stevenleffanueOK. I will try. Thank you!
Maybe just dry brush the drivetrain with a soft brush, instead of washing with the rest of the bike.
Apparently wax doesn't work too well with humidity, rain, puddles, also freezing temperatures. Same for Squirt and similar products, you need a new pass after every rain. And the sprockets are not protected either...
With so much information available proving that waxing is so much better, efficient, and, very importantly, much cleaner, too. Why aren't bike manufacturers supplying bikes with pre-waxed chains to begin with - and new chains too. How long will it take to stop seeing oil lubes being applied. The vast majority of people who use bikes everyday have no idea about waxed chains unless they're told (obviously not referring to enthusiastic cyclists - however, even among those, including many bike mechanics, still only use oil lubes).
Do you, anyone, believe in the future, all chains will be waxed, and we'll stop seeing/hearing the grinding of debris on our chains, plus all the filthy muck associated with oil lubes.
Thank you for sharing all this very useful information - not least the bits where we can economize by doing it ourselves - as opposed to splash out on some very costly wax products on the market.
I must admit, I'm new to all this - just purchased all the necessary products to properly clean the muck off my chainset parts, and then apply hot wax, plus making liquid wax for topping up/reapply.
I've been cycling 1000km approx a month, all weather conditions, surfaces etc, for the past year or so - one becomes very sensitive to all unhealthy noises on the bike - grinding debris on chain parts is one of them.
Cheers👍🚲
For the ordinary bike rider , we all have some sort of oil in the house....almost any oil will lube a bicycle chain...it's quick n easy. However, you are correct. Wax is the superior lube but at present expensive compared to oil.
you should ask chain manufacturers why it is not in their interest to sell fewer chains
So why don't you mix them together like most wax producers do? Molten speedwax use WS2 and MoS2, frictionfacts recipe uses MoS2 + paraffin. Personally I use WS2 + PTFE as I believe that WS2 is better than MoS2.
Haven't tried mixing multiple additives yet. Will be trying that in future
what does chain wear mean? 0.5 or 0.75? Did you use the chain 15000 km until the wear of 0.5?
It's the percentage of a chains length....so .5% longer than when brand new. So it took 15,000km for the chain to reach .5% longer than when brand new.
Amazing work Oz. Thanks so much. But unfortunately if you live somewhere where it rains, and you cycle for getting around from A to B, not for weekend outings, then the whole concept of waxing your chain is just not practical at all 😢. Or is it? Maybe you could do a video on that? But I think the answer is pretty much no, it is not practical. Cheers! JB
Wax is waterproof so it's ideal for wet conditions. However after the ride the chain will require a quick wipe before storing the bike.
WBR PTFE and WS2 Tungsten Disulphide,Ive had between 600k and 1000k from a wax after adding Tungsten Disulphide
Hi Garry what percentage percentage of wax to PTFE to tungsten disulfide is your mix? I’ve been thinking about doing the tungsten disulfide also but I wasn’t sure what percentage or grams to add to the mix.
Thx Jake
@@jakemartin8949 Tungsten Disulphide WS2 - 15g Blend (5g 85nm + 10g 600nm)
@@jakemartin8949did you find the solution in the meanwhile?
Steve, where is the best place to buy connex chains if based in Oz?
Badger wax
Thanks for your very helpful contribution.!
But I have one question, should I wax the cassette too.?
No
@@stevenleffanue I’m just waxed my chain follow your instruction, and ‘bout to deep clean my cassette. I live in SouthEastAsia, the humidity is very high here, what should I do to prevent cassette from rust.?
Big thanks for your reply.!
You could give it a coat of silicone spray that should help.
@@stevenleffanue Is there any particular one, silicone spray is a very general term sir.! 🥲
Hope you do a content about cassette treatment before waxing chain, someday. I do my research, and there no one talking ‘bout it. Or it easier than I thought.? Just degrease and clean it is enough.?
i try many chain PYC KMC ENLEE TOPREE SHIMANO SRAM.
the best durable Chain is Dura ace Shimano and KMC X, the worst is enlee and topree, the middle PYC SRAM.
How are the 100:1 and 20:1 ratios measured? By volume or by weight?
Volume
Oh my God I'm sad I wax my chain pretty much once a week roughly 100km.
I use ptfe with graphite. Do you think the graphite is a waste of money and time?
Hey Steven, may I raise an additional question? - Despite the long lasting experience in chain waxing (2019), I need your opinion for a very long ride of appr. 3,500km to Sweden and Norway this summer. The problem is the rain - very often and heavy. I can take the "mobile chain wax" with me, but I suppose I can not carry as much as needed for this trip. What do you mean? Should I go back to oil only for this period? Normally, I take a second chain with me... but in this case 40-50days this will not really a solution... Thanks, Ralf
Good question. You could go back to using oil or refill the wax bottle when in a town with candle wax disolved in white spirits or shellite if they have it there?
@@stevenleffanue I will take a bottle wax-refill - 'OZ Cycle' receipt - with me and check out whether and how many days to 'survive' in Norway. Later, when cycling season in Australia will restart in October I will report. Thank you for your kind reply and advice in this context. Ralf.
@ralfhenning-venske6764 When in Australia you are welcome to visit me. We have a great bunch of friendly riders here. Hit me up on Facebook messages or instagram when here 👍
@@stevenleffanue Thank you very much. I am following "Coast Cruisers" since years (Ralf Venske Biker... ) and would appreciate this incl. a special "Ralf's ride - Coast 2 Coast"... ;-) -> Thank you Steven!
The smirk he has gleams a love of wax
Very thorough and well explained, thank you. I do have a question about the PTFE though. Part of it ends up in the environment and that is a problem. Not for your wallet but for nature and future generations. How do you relate to this issue?
It's Australia, mate!
At least the chains are clean, what more can you ask?
@@DR_1_1 a little consideration for those we are leaving this planet to maybe? I don't know that ptfe is less damaging in Australia...
@@JoakimGarde I was joking, but you are "eating" PTFE everyday, it's also called Teflon and you have that on cooking/frying pana in almost any kitchen....
So it's NOT killing that many people - world's population is rising as fast as ever!
High Quality Content thanks for sharing ❤
20:1/100:1 weight or volume?
Weight
mass
@@mircozelle20g parafin 1g ptfe ?
@@mircozelle weight, because you cannot simply measure the mass, but you can measure the weight. substances of different density of the same weight have different mass due to the hydrostatic buoyancy of air
12:18 my chain shimano hg70 life on pure wax is 6000km on my bike and additional 2-3000km on my wifes bike , what is 6-9 times on oil, my rewax interval is 100km or before, so it seams that your rewax intervals of 300km for WS2, MOS2 and Graphite are too long , reduce it on half and must be some gain in chain life
For PTFE, rewax should be 300km. For WS2 and MOS2 it will depend on what ratio you are using as those additives come off the chain easier.
@@stevenleffanue for some general conditions, it is unusual that anti-friction additives give a shorter chain life than wax without these additives, but over a period of 100 km, it is logical that the repetition of waxing with these additives should be more frequent, because according to scientific data, ws2 is the strongest additive when it is in oil. try to test one chain with that additive every 200km, it should extend the life of the chain
15:24 you chose the wrong tooth, this one is the same shape even when it is not worn
Hello, why dont you mention the grease converter powder you use on the other video ? Is it mendatory or not ? Its a replacement for the paraffin oil you used some years ago ? thanks
The grease converter powder is an alternative to using the three step chemical method. Either method works to begin waxing a new chain.
Do you have any metrics for 12 speed (1x) MTB setups? Would this process/formula work just as well (considering our chains get hammered by dust/mud/water/etc.)? Also, what is the cleaning process/interval? E.g. Rinse the chain with water, allow to dry & dust off with a dry brush, etc?
same question here
Exactly the same as with road. If riding in wet conditions, wipe chain dry with microfibre cloth before storing the bike or rewax the chain if required.
I also use wax, but think that when the temperature is above 30° it doesn't last very long. Are there paraffin pellets that have a higher melting point?
Most common paraffin wax melting point is about 53deg C.
@@stevenleffanue Yea.. And at 34° it's soft and wears off quickly
Don't use bees wax as it has high stiction
@@stevenleffanue I use paraffin pelet, 56° and ptfe. But after 120km I have sound on chain. It is in 30+°
If I use it in 18+° it's working for 260km.. And sound begin after that. °C of course
Each time I tune in I leave with something new. Thanks.
OK let’s discuss about what gram quantity of PTFE do we use per chain? So we don’t waste money on it unused. Your advice?
Hi, i have been using Oz's formula for years now and love it. However i do notice big differences between parafin wax grades. Some have been poor and don't last long. Anyone know which is best? Eg there is kerawax 4600 pillar blend and 422. These are both refined and have low oil content. I also find when i bought the ptfe and wax as a kit off ebay the results are not as good, so now i buy separately and not on ebay.
What am I doing wrong!? I live in the UK, ride in all conditions. I follow this process pretty much to the letter and even re-wax after any wet ride by cleaning in hot water and then wax in my pot. I re-wax every chain at around 200k if it’s stayed dry, this is all road riding as well. No matter what I do and what chain brand I use (KMC, Shimano or Wipperman) they always seem to hit 50% worn before 3000km. I’ve never got anywhere near the figures that are typically suggest. I’ve also done similar with Silca wax and got similar results. The only benefit I seem to get is just the cleanliness but at a cost of waxing most weeks and all the faff that goes with it. I’ve been through 7+ chains and over 20000km of riding on waxed chains so this isn’t like I’ve had a quick stab at this. Any suggestions?
Could be any number of things. Is the wax getting into the links? Have you tried Connex SX chain?
I think the main difference is Australian vs. UK weather. Especially cold and salt. I used OZ's method in Denmark, where the weather is very comparable to the UK, and I needed to completely strip the chain for every rewax, which would be after about 150 km. (Petrol 12 hours, then degreaser 30 min, then isopropyl alcohol for some seconds with shaking for each step).
I also needed to mix the wax with parafin oil to make it stick and not be too noisy.
I stayed away from PTFE powder as my conscience could not bear that.
I now use drip on wax instead and find it to be easier in practise, especially since I don't have a power source in the garage. Squirt and Effetto Mariposa Flower Power have no PTFE. I have three chains for one bike which i circulate so that a clean and lubed one is always ready after cleaning the bike. I still clean the chain in petrol+degreaser+isopropyl alcohol, however I might switch to only degreaser in summer time.
Thanks both for the advice. I only use the wipperman sx chains, mainly because of the quick link. I do leave. The chains in the melted wax, in a slow cooker for well over an hour so the wax should certainly be all the way through. I also take the chain out as close to cold as possible so that there is as much left inside as possible (I dont know if I actually need to do that). I certainly haven’t changed my wax mixture and it’s now looking grey so maybe I should start again and follow the more updated method. For me personally using this home brew or Silca wax I typically see the same results in lifespan of chains. I have also tried adding an amount of paraffin into another pot for winter conditions but that didnt seem to stay on the chain even one ride. I guess, start again with fresh stuff and try the new method and see what happens! Thanks
@@emooooooo2036 I forgot to say that the initial preparation before the first wax is really important (petrol 12 hours, degreaser 30min, shake, then isopropyl alcohol, and it must be clear, otherwise start over).
Also preparing the rest of the drivetrain to make sure it's completely clean. I use citrus degreaser with a small brush first and then “gear floss”, especially for the cassette and pulley wheels.
It needs to be done regularly, too, as oil can make it from the road grime up onto your bike.
If your wax is getting gray, there certainly is some contamination.
One thing you can do for your next batch is have a sieve inside the melting pot to keep the chain off the bottom. The dirt will usually collect at the bottom, thus making it less likely to go into your chain. Good luck! 👍🏻
@@SimonHBSi also did a good cleaning as you suggested for my 1st waxing and the parafin wax i used is still clean pure white visually so i guess I cleaned it right but i prefer using a new chain that will save. More time less cleaning i am not mixing any other additives but using squirt drip lube , as in my country only silca brand wax is available and its cost around 3000INR+18% taxes pretty expensive for only 500gm also Indian weather in the capital is mostly dry in winter and in summer so only the dirt here is the culprit and i hate riding in rain and on wet roads so i am gonna rewax on next 1000km in bw gonna top up the wax, wax main enemy is moisture and here it's already less good thing for me :-P
The cracks in the outer flange appear due to the tightening force during chain assembly.
EDIT: Such a great amount of information here! Thank you for all of it. I now can understand better the whole mechanics behind the benefits and the mechanics behind wax use.
this method is far better overall than the elite waxes out there and far more cost effective!!!
(My Previous comment)
Wax is great and I use it, but I think it's not worth the cost in the long run. I mean, a chain is 30-40€, so it's better to change a chain a bit sooner than go mad about it with crazy expensive waxes....
I paid aud $25 for 5kg of pure paraffin wax from eBay. I have used less than 1.5kg in 7 years across 7 bikes (100,000km +). There is no cheaper lube.
Edit: My chains last three times longer now too.... at least 10,000 to 15,000km
lui agree, but people still paying insane prices for elite waxes... @@richardggeorge
you can use pure wax, as i do, it is almost for free
@@richardggeorge it should last 6 times, reduce time between rewaxing, i rewax every 100km
great video as usual. The chain of my bike (Canyon Pathlite 6 2022 model, and Canyon Roadlite 6 2023 model) is a 12 speed chain. The issue with those is that there is an official quick link available, yes, from Shimano, but it's not reusable. And there aren't reusable alternatives, afaik, so I use your waxing method creating a bottle of lube for now (with ligroin as a carrier and candles' wax). PTFE is kinda banned where I live so I don't mix it with the ligroin and wax, and gotta look for an alternative, but I am not in a hurry
Connex make a 12 speed quick link which lasts the life of the chain
Shimano says it's not re-usable but it is. Probably up to five times but when it's too easy to remove, it's time for a new one.
I reuse my chain link the whole chain life. Also i do so on a mountain bike were there is a lot of tension and cross chaining going on. So when i calculate 10000km / 160km (most of my rides are around 80km, sometimes more and i rewax more or less every second ride), i opened and closed the shimano 11s link around 60 times. It still needs more than enough force with the pliers to be opened or closed. You just have to be careful always lining up the plates correctly.
PTFE powder is not available where I live. Can I use PTFE spray instead ?
You can certainly try it.
Ptfe is available from Aliexpress
Have you tested parafin with silicone oil? That combination is superhydrophobic.
Sounds like a good idea but doesn't silicone oil attract dirt?
@@stevenleffanue If you melt it together in a small proportion you should just get a slightly softer wax. You can search google scholar for "parafin pdms superhydrophobic" for a number of papers on the combination.