How to install the HOTTEST new NGK Ruthenium HX Spark Plug! (Civic 2006-2011 8th Gen)
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Hello and welcome to Kelvin's Garage! I'm trying out the hottest new spark plug technology: NGK RUTHENIUM HX! This is the first time I will be installing the Ruthenium HX spark plugs on my 2006 Honda Civic. Does it make my car run better or faster? Change your spark plugs to make your car run much smoother than before and pass that smog check!
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NGK Ruthenium Spark Plug
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#ruthenium ##sparkplug #smogcheck #ngk #carrepair #kelvinsgarage
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Disclaimer: The content of this video is put forth as information only, and this creator makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or adequacy of the procedures and instructions contained therein. The creator of this content expressly disclaims liability for errors and omissions that any viewers of this video might declare to exist in the information as presented. No liability exists or can be ascribed to this content creator in the event of any accident or injury that might occur as a result of improper application or understanding of the procedures and information contained in this video.
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NGK Ruthenium Spark Plug
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I put these in my Toyota Corolla LE 2006 Automatic to make a "Zipper LE Build" tied with Duralast Coil Packs, K&N Filter(Airbox Charcoal Filter Removed due to clog), front strut bar (waiting on my rear one), Throttle Controller, and Driver Easy Bridgestone Tires on Steelies. Hauls some serious ass! I'm gonna get some alluminum wheels soon for increased acceleration/stop distance improvement for sure. I stand by Rutheniums for sure!
Don't add oil to the thread, no recommended by NGK.
Plug thread diameter and Tightening torque
18 mm: 35 to 40N·m (3.5 to 4.0 kgm)
14 mm: 25 to 30N·m (2.5 to 3.0 kgm)
12 mm: 15 to 20N·m (1.5 to 2.0 kgm)
10 mm: 10 to 12N·m (1.0 to 1.2 kgm)
8 mm: 8 to 10N·m (0.8 to 1.0 kgm)
Never heard of these until today
Thank you...please don't use oil to coat plug...Tip Extension to socket wrap with electrical tape..Never have to fish for socket again. Good luck
Or get a socket made for plugs lol rubber inside socket to grip the spark plug
I put these plugs in my Lexus rx350 and noticed better throttle response,less engine shaking, smoother power delivery, and better cold starting.
Don't lube the thread with oil or anything else. Not even anti seize. A locking extension is nice to have for these so you don't have to fish out the socket. It's always a good idea to turn the spark plug backwards a turn or so until you hear and feel the threads find the starting point before threading them in. That will reduce the chance of cross threading them. Probably unlikely that it would happen on these cars, but it's a very good habit to have.
u need the
Duralast 3/8in Drive 5/8in Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with 10in Swivel Bar
Part #
52-136 autozone works wonders
I went with Denso coils myself.
Thanks I will check these out!
Nice video thanks for sharing :0) just purchased a set for my older tacoma. Like others have said, use just a tad of anti-seize on the spark plug threads. buy a tube toss in top drawer of tool box, It will last a lifetime if used sparingly. Anyway great video
I put my Ruth's in almost 50k miles ago and still crack'n.
never ever ever ever put oil on the plug threads like that they might back out on you, anti seize is for the threads and dielectric grease for the coil boot.
you'll learn youngster..
If I'm not mistaken... NGK does not recommend anti-seize be used on the threads since it's already coated from the factory and will not give you the correct torque reading (13 ft lbs) when using a torque wrench. This is what it says in regards to using anti-seize ---> Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental. **But dielectric grease on the coil boot is definitely a good idea!
Hello and thanks for watching! I am delighted that my use of oil on the spark plug thread has caused so much "controversy". After all, sharing ideas and techniques is what the car community is all about! I use a drop of oil on the threads to lower the chances of cross threading and to provide a better feel when hand screwing in the plug since the aluminum head might be soft and "catch" a little bit. Oil is not covering the tip or drenching the plug. When properly torqued, the spark plug will not "back out" on it's own. c Yang is correct in that any lube on the thread acts as a torque "multiplier" and oil is commonly used for this. In this case, notice that I do not use a torque wrench, I am following the turns directions on the plug box. 1/2 turn is 1/2 turn no matter if there's oil or not so this multiplication effect should not be taking place here. Most importantly, I use oil instead of anti-seize or any other substance because it is pretty much "safe" for the combustion chamber. In the worst case, any excess oil will simply burn up in the cylinder. If anti-seize got into the chamber I'm not sure what effect that would have. Also, I don't need to really clean out old anti-seize, simply put a few more drops of oil and I'm good for the next plug change. Thanks for sharing and cheers!
@@kelvinsgarage Good video and thanks for making one. This ongoing debate about using or not using any kind of lubricants or anti-seize on NGK plugs has been around for years, some use them others don't. I personally don't use anything on my plugs when installing them new since it's already coated from the factory.. however, I do use a tad after the second or third time (inspecting plugs) since the coating would no longer be present, but I do back down my torque value to approx 11 ft lbs if anti-seize is applied. Just got some NGK ruthenium plugs and will install them on my 4-Runner soon and try them out to see if performance is enhanced or not. Another thing when R&R plugs is this debate about whether to do it while the engine is cold or warm (definitely not hot). I change my plugs when the engine is warm or cold, but never when hot. Heat will expand the metal and it will be that much harder to remove plugs and things can go south really quick. Thanks again for making this video! Cheers
It raises the cylinder compression because they stick out more than thier ngk counterpart but I believe the iridium will last longer just installed some today but the price you pay won't amount to the savings you get from changing over so it's pretty pointless way of manufacturers using less expensive materials.
It's been two years already that I haven't changed my spark plugs and that's going 80 to 90mph once time has passed you'll notice that your acceleration has decreased less gas milage, I had the block version ones older version I'm exited to try these new ones.
I just switched my Spark plugs with these same plugs my car is a 2005 Civic. It's hard to tell if I notice any difference. Its only been a few days.
It seems to be running fine. It should be interesting if Ill notice any difference in the cold starts. I did record the cold start to compare the cranking.. the car seemed to crank slowly in very cold before. But, its never NOT started.
Separately, I'm leaning towards changing my moms 2017 Corolla its approaching 6 years and has aout 52k miles. Toyota says say 120k but, when I look at the parts department it says they have platinum tipped spark plugs which can only last up to 60k. That car gets worse mileage than mine right now in winter its at about 28mpg in warm weather it get 32mpg my honda gets around 35-38mpg mixed drivng. I don't know if this is normal for mostly around town driving for the Toyota LE Corolla. But, any bump in efficiency could pay for itself. Do, you have any opinions on this or do you think I'm foolish to change the originals this early. Another reason is at least I'll know 100% what is in the car being its used. i can only guess it has never been changed. Though, I have no idea. One time my mom did say it had trouble starting. Which is what made me wonder if it could be starting to fail. The other option would be to have them pull the plug and look at them. Quite honestly, we already have the part so it seems sillly not to just spend the 100-120 dollars to get it out of the way. Being, it has such a long life span. (Id be swinging it to a bosch double iridium spark plug 96339. Which seems to be the highest quality plug for her car.
What is the lifespan of the Ruthenium plugs vs. the standard copper/nickel plugs?
Ruthenium hasn’t been around long enough to know for sure but speculation is that they are long life but shorter than Iridium. Standard spark plugs 10-20k mi, Iridium 60-100k mi, so somewhere between there.
Were the hell you get that idea to put oil on the threads. You never do that! If anything it should be anti seize! NEVER PUT OIL ON THOSE THREADS!!!!!!!!!!!
Wtf are you doing putting oil on the threads, it already has anti-seize on it from the factory.
These are cheaper than the laser iridium that comes with my car 18 civic
Did someone give you the advice to put oil on the threads?
read a long time ago somewhere and it has never given me problems over a dozen spark plug changes, thanks!
You NEVER EVER put oil around threads EVER. Spark plugs are not oil filters. They don’t need oil lubrication. NGK doesn’t even recommend this and they made the spark plugs you’re putting in your car. Omfg. Anti-seize is not expensive. You paid more for the oil than a couple packets of anti-seize. Petroleum oil is not the same as anti-seize otherwise anti-seize wouldn’t need to be made if motor oil worked better. You’re basically giving the spark plug the ability and opportunity to unloosen itself because there’s nothing for the threads to hold or grip against. I’ve changed spark plugs out that had anti-seize coated to the threads and spark plugs that had clean dry threads and both never gave me issues. Also the oil can seep through into your combustion chamber where the top of the piston ignites with ONLY fuel and air and cause carbon build up. I would never let you work on my car. I wouldn’t even let you clean the windows. Omg wtf are you doing?
*How is the fuel efficiency with these plugs?*
x2
Once you buy them you'll know that these are the closes to your average racing plug.
You dont rub oil on the tread calvin lol rub some grease not oil a grease in the boot of ignition coil pack thats about it ...
how do they compare to the E3's?
Not sure about the E3’s but I had NGK iridiums prior to this and the ruthenium is definitely better, pulls stronger.
So these are ok to install on a 2006 civic si??
There might be a part number difference since my LX is 1.8 liter and I believe the Si has a 2.0 liter engine. Otherwise I would highly recommend the Ruthenium plugs.
If they are available for your car then you can use them.
I must of gotten the wrong ones cuz they were an inch too long
Yes. They make a set for the k20z3 si. Ive had those in my motor for 2 years 20k mi at least
Wow, this is bad. NGK is NOT suggesting you shouldn't gap these. What they are trying to tell you is do not pry up against the center electrode when gapping them. it is very thin and can be damaged or bent easily. Don't put oil on your spark plugs...where the hell did that even come from? NGK specifically states not to even use anti-seize. Please be responsible when making these videos. People that don't know any better might do what you did.
Nappa auto