DIY Field Solar Array - Part 6
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- Attaching the rails, panels, and DC optimizers.
This is the 6th in a series of videos documenting the construction of a ground-mounted 17.4 kW electric solar array.
- Solarworld 275w mono-crystalline black frame/backing panels
- Ironridge frame (with 2 inch galvanized pipe)
- 11.4 kW Solaredge Inverter (with 42 400 watt power optimizers)
- 6 kW Solaredge Inverter (with 18 400 watt power optimizers) - Наука та технологія
smiling you know in carpentry we use 3/4/5 rule. you were skewed and did not measure corner to corner which would have gotten you dead on with just twi then as you go along three panels installed. Pretty much measure corner to corner and make sure your dimensions were identical. This would have kept you right on.. hope this helps someone else who might be looking to do an install that is similar to yours.
Thanks!
Great video series. I am in the process of doing a 9920W install and my first ever so this series is providing a lot of great information. This appears to be the last of the series, did you ever complete the install? I am contemplating whether to install the inverter outdoors or indoors, what are the pros and cons of each? Thanks again.
Oh yeah. The array has been producing power for years now. I was in a hurry to get it on line and start making money. Also, I haven't paid an electric bill since they went on line. Making these videos goes a lot slower than I had hoped. I may do one more to wrap the series, but there isn't much to show - except to say, "Hey, after all these years, it's still working perfectly."
The enclosures are outdoor rated (NEMA 3R) and most put the them outdoors. But, if you have a place to put it indoors, that's not too hot, I would do that because it seems like there would be much less trauma (dust, insects, sun exposure, extreme temperatures). That being said, it should work perfectly fine outside. I was originally planning to place mine outside, but I changed them to inside shortly after first bringing the system online.
Congrulations! I'm from Brazil, and we trying to cultive the power solar here...Can you say for me how much did you spend in this project? Because here is too expensive yet.
Good lucky in your projects..
Total cost (including the trenching team, rentals, and every single part, panel, pipe, clamp, connector, component, wire, construction material, supply, can of spray paint, etc.) was 35,000 USD. Labor was free (more or less).
It seems like a lot.. and it is. But - I haven't paid an electric bill since going on line and I get a check from the power company every year. In USA, we also have renewable incentives which were terrific initially (as in, I could make more money with the incentives than by the electricity I generated), but now they are almost worthless. That could change in the future, but it depends on the regions energy policy from year to year. I estimate the payback time to be more than 5 years, but less than 8 years - depending on the market and incentives.
Patiently waiting on your final video on how you run the dc wire from the array to the house to connect to the inverters. Did you use subpanel to connect all the wires and then run a 100amp to the house
I'm always flattered that anyone actually watches these videos! I'll make an effort to get the last one done. It will probably take me several more weeks at least.
Here's how I did the AC to DC switch. When I came up with the idea of placing the inverters indoors, it was after I had already trenched in the 240v service cables and there were only 4 wires running out to the panels; three 2-gauge aluminum and one 4-gauge aluminum (typical 100-amp service). I used these 4 wires to make 2 DC loops, each loop feeding 1 inverter (I have two inverters on this setup). I use a 2-gauge and a 4-gauge to feed the 6kw inverter. I use the 2 remaining 2-gauge wires to feed the 11.4 kw inverter. There is no ground wire connecting the panels in the field to the indoor units. Not wanting to trench in additional wires, the best I could do was place a grounding rod at the frame in the field and I have a grounding rod for the inverter chassis where they come into the house. Obviously, if I was doing it over, I'd run a few extra wires to be sure to meet code. At the panels, I installed a metal junction box with conduit connections coming in. Inside the box, I tie the appropriate strings together in parallel and connect them to the underground wires using split bolts. The old service wires come out of the large junction box, in conduit, go down in the ground, and then run direct burial to the house. So, it's 3 parallel strings of 14 tied to two 2-gauge wires and 2 parallel strings of 9 tied to the 2-gauge and the 4-gauge. I was worried that the SolarEdge telemetry would not transmit over the ~600 foot distance, but it works great. In conclusion, to do this correctly, I would have wanted to run an additional 2-gauge, so my gauges were matched, and one more additional wire to provide ground connections - 1 for each inverter. These frame grounding wires are required by code for arrays on a roof, so I would imagine they are required for a field array too.
Hullspeed . Thx. For some reason I though since you used solaredge optimizer that you would have the panels in series for up to the max DC of 5250 per string. Never thought of parallels . Interesting thou. I’m in the process of setting up a 17kw system consisting of 50 panels with five up and 10 . I thinking of using two 7600 solaredge inverters and have two strings to each inverters. I string will be 14 panels essential 2 of 14’s and then 2 string of 11 each. And running both wires from inverters to a 125 amp sub panel with two double pole 40 for each inverter and then using a 100amp ac disconnect before running wire underground to the side of the building with another 100amp ac disconnect before connecting to 100amp breaker inside my main panel of 200amp. Essential backfeeding.
AIHF, I wanted to stay below 15 panels per string to assure that I did not exceed 600 volts open circuit (assuming the optimizers were not present, even though they are). In full sun, each panel is about 40 volts open circuit, so 15 panels equals 15 * 40 volts, which is 600 volts - and that is the voltage limit of the PV wire I'm using. Also, by running parallel strings, I can divide the current up so not everything is on a single series run of PV wire. I combine the amps when it goes onto the 2 gauge aluminum (100 amps rated). There is also a minimum number per string according to the instructions - I think it's 8 or 9.
Hullspeed I’m using P400 solaredge inverter with 340XL SOLARWORLD PANELs. But I see your point
Part 7 coming soon? ? ?
Hey. Might be a while. Everything worked out great and I'm in the process of adding 20 more panels to the existing inverters to push them more to their limit. I decided to put the 20 on a small section of roof over the house where the interters are mounted. Next spring or summer (2018), part 7 might be a "years later... how's it holding up video". Short answer is that it has been terrific with not a single breakdown (knock on wood). The only thing going wrong is that I didn't get all the oil residue off the pipes and some of the black paint is flaking off. As far as electricity goes, I get money back from the power company and I haven't paid an electric bill since it went on line. Our electric bills were high! The value of SRECs has tanked, however. Oh well.
With Avasva plans doing something like that was easy.