Issue,Issues! & More Issues!1957Johnson 5.5Hp Runs Again, A Personal Worst! Some Tips! 3Times Apart!
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- Опубліковано 21 тра 2024
- Very frustrating repair for me in my many years of fixing outboards multiple issues.Motor was bought for the plastic hood emblem originally for $20 should of left it,LOL! and was missing many parts. I did repaint the red on cover only with new decals.
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For outboard guys that enjoy this.Heres a list of what I came across on this little kicker..Aluminum readplate corroded(replaced),crankcase sealing problems (old sealer), partially stuck rings after second teardown(cleaned grooves & new rings installed),carb flooding issues(installed new needle & seat) Motor was missing carb and knobs,recoil,airbox,tiller ,carb faceplate.All replaced with used parts.Replaced headgasket, both carb intake gaskets ,carb mount gasket and powerhead gasket to midsection all new ($75 local marina)Impellar(new),coils(used) and plugs.
Nice to see you back motor sounds real nice .Old 50S Johnson & Evinrudes were the best .Great Video..Frank
Thanks yeah boy time flies glad Winters over and back at my hobby and having fun making videos.Thanks for commenting..
That motor belonged to my great-great-great-great-great-great uncle Flavius maximus of Rome!!! He couldn't get it started,, so he
gave it to Caesar Augustus to use to cross the Rubicon river north of Rome!!! It quit running while he was crossing the Rhine and
the Gauls ( they had some Gaul!!!!) almost captured him!!!! Caesar then scrapped that motor at Plutonius Farkanius's ~Roman Scrap yard~!!!!
LOLOLOL!!!! Great video Glenn!!!!!!
I got this motor from a shmo named Moe. He had a brother Curly he couldnt get it started for surely. Their friend Larry said give it to that UA-camr TOT62 the mechanic hell get it to run please dont panic......... HAA!!!!!!
Great to see you back Glenn.
Man! That motor gave you some trouble but you pushed though and won Yes!😁
Sure is a good looking old motor and purring like a kitten now
Another one back to life now the fun begins again lol.
Always enjoy watching looking forward to seeing what's coming up next. Have a great rest of the week see you on the next one 👍🏻
Thanks Chris yeah I took a break this motor contributed to that mostly and just a Winter hibernation too. I was real annoyed (frustrated)on and off for awhile but persevered finally,LOL.These little kickers having no needle bearings on the piston crank journals and no roller bearings on the three mains are very quiet when dialed in correctly.You can hear that at the very end of the video with the cover back on shes sweet.Yeah not much interest in these old girls like cars but I enjoy making the videos... Take care...
So many great points of discussion here! First, we can't over emphasize the importance or proper prep/sealant/application when it comes to sealing crankcase halves! Most of the "anerobic sealers" do have a "shelf life", and I would not trust open containers for much more than a year regardless. It is so frustrating because most of the containers/tubes are much larger than we need when working on small outboards. Prep is key for sure, proper cleaning is a must, making sure the surfaces are flat is just as important. Not much of an issue on the small ones, but an often overlooked issue on the larger outboards for sure. Following directions on the sealer, making sure the surfaces are clean, all these seemingly minor things are so damn important. Nothing worse than starting a freshly built powerhead only to see bubbling/spraying from the crankcase halves. I know the damn typeM is tough to work with, but it sure dries well and rarely leaks. The anerobic stuff is great, but much less tolerant to irregular surfaces and poor prep.
Sure do wonder what could have stuck the rings to quickly... Do you think the acid swelled the aluminum surfaces in the ring lands? Was there any "stuff" in there that would explain the stuck rings? I say stuff, only cuz we know it wasn't carbon or rust/corrosion from water submersion.
That powerhead gasket issue is another interesting topic as well. The mating surfaces on the older spring mount engines are different, so it is easy to understand how using the wrong gasket will create a cooling leak. But, the mating surfaces are the same for the later model non thermostat vs newer thermostat engines. So, what problem could be created by using the gasket with the one hole versus the gasket with the complete cut out? Just wish I could figure that out someday. The lower seal orientation/installation is one of the biggest errors made by so many people, including inexperienced outboard techs working on older engines. The problem is that you won't realize your error, the engine will run fine. It takes some time before enough water makes its way inside eventually causing enough rod wear to ventilate the crankcase. Thermostat head gasket on a non thermostat engine? Guess that would probably work OK. Running the engine with the air discharge open will cause it to run lean on one cylinder, you will need to use the pressure tank in order to dial in the idle later.
Finally, I have watched the boys use that drill motor helping to get stubborn engines running. But, you must be careful not to inadvertently over tighten/torque the flywheel nut while doing that....
Great job/wrestling match done brother. Another great fishing motor for someone to enjoy for many years to come...
Yeah this one was a Doozy.Just to clarify I only use the drill as a last chance scenario on the stubborn ones this was one of them. Knowing it could be risky on a small diameter crank especially like these possibly shearing .Luckily my drill isnt an impact just a 600RPM antique dinosaur from the old days ill use it cautiously,HA.Yes surface prep is the key with block halves. And actually there is one worse scenario from a leaky block oozing oil & gas bubbles out the first time you run it. Its when its oozing out gas and oil & bubbles after you just painted it too,HA! Your theory could be true about the swelling of the ring grooves.The acid did make them ring surfaces chalky in appearance I just left them.The Permatex sealant was maybe 3 or 4 years old I threw it out. I agree the shelf life was expired my dumb mistake.Those powerhead gaskets were changed probably in part because of cooling flow design going to a thermostat head. 6HP head gaskets have half the cooling holes of a 5.5 head gasket. You could match up overlay the gaskets punch additional holes and be on your merry way if you choose. I was going to do that but bought the right gasket for around 11 bucks. One thing I observed was the motor overheated to over 200F in minutes on the head when I checked it with my laser thermometer.After changing the powerhead gasket it read about 140F after ten minutes of running. Running the engine with no airline closed circuit was a chance thing as I had it blocked off and lost the cap so I ran it anyway. All in all Thanks for the comment as I have been dormant over the Winter mainly from bad weather and the issues with this engine so I took a break.... Stay tuned!!
I hear ya brother, I know you are careful about the drill motor for sure. And yeah, wrecking a nice paint job is a kick in the ass as well...
It's confusing to me about the damn gaskets for sure. You would "think" that the base gasket with the little hole would be preferable for the non thermostat motors, kind of acting as a bit of a restriction/thermostat if you will. And one would "think" that the gasket with the big cut out would be perfect for the thermostat motors cuz the thermostat is the restriction. I won'der what would happen if the full cut out gasket was used on a thermostat powerhead... Oh well, guess I'm overthinking it, just can't help myself...Will look into it someday...
And yeah, I know you realize that the air line has to be shut off to run it from some sort of gravity feed, just pointing it out for others.
Yeah, the winter was long and depressing, now home recovering from knee surgery....Wish I could have done it in the winter...Oh well, shouldn't be fussy, just hope it works....
@@donk499 I do know in 1959 OMC engineers added a secondary baffle plate and modified the exhaust plate casting possibly for better water flow to help cool down the exhaust side of the block.Up until then it was direct exhaust gases against the external plate making it extremely hot quickly.So maybe that might of had a play on the gasket mod in time. Always interesting to try and figure out what they did years ago to inprove their line of outboards dont you think.... Take care of those knees so far mine are holding out.......
Need old 1950S-80S OMC parts from 2HP -35HP let me know I probably have it.