Adam, this is a great upgrade. One suggestion is to put anti-seize on the sliding rods. To keep it from rusting in place. Because everything is better with a buttering of anti-seize. Job done, time for a beer in the shade.
I did this same project on our last travel trailer and was very happy with it. With our current 5th wheel, the spare came in the front storage compartment and was a bugger to get out when I needed to change a flat on our way to Yellowstone two years ago. When we got back home, I ordered the BAL Retract A Spare which uses the cable and winch. I think if I had to do it again, I would go with this underslung system because, with the Retract A Spare, you have to crawl under the camper to disconnect or connect the winch to the tire. I'd rather slide the spare out to me than have to crawl under the camper.
Be sure to put some anti seize on that thumb screw! I had one of these and we got a flat after about 8 months. Ended up having to climb underneath to get the spare down, and then drill out the thumb screw when we got home.
Thanks for the video. I ordered mine off your site and just got it installed. The best part about the video is I didn't have to read the instructions after watching the video. I enjoy all your videos and just wanted to tell both of Thanks.
Hey Adam...another great video. In the video you didn't mention if you covered the self-tapping screw tips to make sure they do not poke hole the HVAC ducts. You might consider using vacuum line caps or something similar if it's a concern. Also, I'm not sure if y'all are running a TPMS system on your Kodiak...if you are, I would consider adding one to the spare so you know the air pressure w/o having to drop it and verify good air pressure during your pre-trip checklist. Hope to see you and Abby out there.
With those flexible mounting tubes, the bounce when traveling my cause metal fatigue , I would mount the spare wheel/tyre nearest the carrier mounting bracket to the RV chassis/Frame as I could to stop the flexing mounting tubes .
Thank you for doing this video. I've really been considering one of these. I'm gonna wait until y'all get back from Big Haul if all goes well. I'm pulling the trigger
Hey Adam. You can put the ratchet wrench on the bolt and the ring wrench on the nut. Then the bolt can protrude further. I just wanted to share this. A fan from Belgium. :)
I will have to try those drill bits. Why is it that all the bits I seem to buy for metal seem to struggle so much when I drill steel? I watch your other channel and see the bits you use in your machine shop go through steel like butter. Whats different about those, other than I'm sure they are expensive?
I like it, its the one i would like to have, as fare as tank mount how much room do you have between the top of the rail and the bottom of the rv. Ive got a 36 gal rino tank.
Good video bud. Very informative. Question: Why is it that you removed the tire from the rear bumper? I am fixing to weld me a bracket on the rear bumper for my tire. Seems more practical to have it in the rear how you had it. I know sometimes we just look to add the next new feature right. Just seems kinda flimsy. The other video with the under storage was pretty good too. Thanks for sharing.
I was coming to say the same thing. UPDATE: I just found this on the BAL website. "Only one tire per carrier allowed. 100 lb tire/wheel limit. Additional Tire Mount Plates not available for purchase."
Hey Adam, I’ve been trying to figure out a way to move my spare from the front compartment. Problem is I have a gas line that runs down the I-beam on the inside of the frame so nothing that mounts flush with the bottom of the frame would work. Look like you have had the same issue. This looks like it would work for that? I just couldn’t quite get the right camera angle to see. Thanks-Dennis
Rather than buy a new cover, maybe consider just adding 4 gromets to the bottom of the cover and securing (and also tightening the cover) it with a line of some type. As soon as I saw the cover, I would be concerned with it coming off, even if tighter with a new one. I understand it would be aggravating to remove but keeping it clean is worth covering it. I don't think an elastic band sewn into the cover would be sufficient (for me anyway) to keep it from possibly blowing off. The wind is blowing directly on it now as opposed to being mounted behind the camper. Good video. I didn't know undermount systems were available for campers.
Unhook the spare tire bracket and lower it to the ground. Carefully pull it till the tubes separate and reconnect those tubes with about 6 inches of the smaller ones inside the larger ones; connect the frame-mounted bracket with a chord, light chain, or bungee chord to the rail-mounted frame so you know to not pull any more than that. A light bungee chord would supply enough pull to keep the other chord from flopping around. Those light chords may be a little bit of a nuisance but will be better than pulling the tubes apart on the side of the road somewhere and probably in miserable weather.
LOL I would never argue with the A-bomb. I love your videos. And I've had to cut my underbelly a few times and I use the Gorilla tape and it holds really well 👍🇺🇲
You should see if you can find a small toolbox that would fit inside the rim, so you can have the appropriate tools always together with the spare (to remove it from the bracket, and to mount it properly, like you had the 4-way previously)
I live in England and so wildlife is not really harmful - do you worry about snakes when you are crawling around under the Kodiac either curled around the frame or coming up out of a hole?
I was thinking the same thing with the condition of the roads where I live I'm not so sure that that brackets heavy enough to hold the spare tire without there being excessive vibration and perhaps there be a catastrophic failure.
I am good with everything about the installation except for the bending of the copper line. If you have to get behind something like this, don’t 😂the line, that could cause a leak.
Ok I've been doing some further reading on this because one of my first thoughts was doesn't drilling holes into the rails weaken it ? It appears the rails is one of the places you shouldn't be doing any form of drilling since the holes increase the potential for fracture points This product should not be recommending drilling holes like this period, it is dangerous
“If I only had a vise…” that made me laugh.
Adam, this is a great upgrade. One suggestion is to put anti-seize on the sliding rods. To keep it from rusting in place. Because everything is better with a buttering of anti-seize.
Job done, time for a beer in the shade.
I did this same project on our last travel trailer and was very happy with it. With our current 5th wheel, the spare came in the front storage compartment and was a bugger to get out when I needed to change a flat on our way to Yellowstone two years ago. When we got back home, I ordered the BAL Retract A Spare which uses the cable and winch. I think if I had to do it again, I would go with this underslung system because, with the Retract A Spare, you have to crawl under the camper to disconnect or connect the winch to the tire. I'd rather slide the spare out to me than have to crawl under the camper.
Be sure to put some anti seize on that thumb screw! I had one of these and we got a flat after about 8 months. Ended up having to climb underneath to get the spare down, and then drill out the thumb screw when we got home.
Ok,... So,... The new intro... Fab-U Lous!!! LOVE IT!! This is the vibe I get from you two! Absolutely nailed it!!
Thanks so much!!
Adam, Abby.... If nobody has reminded you both lately..... You guys are the PADDYFAMILIOUS!!! The real deal!! Keep on truckin and 1 bite at a time!(-;
I’m excited to see the new cargo carrier solution
Thanks for the video. I ordered mine off your site and just got it installed. The best part about the video is I didn't have to read the instructions after watching the video. I enjoy all your videos and just wanted to tell both of Thanks.
Hey Adam...another great video. In the video you didn't mention if you covered the self-tapping screw tips to make sure they do not poke hole the HVAC ducts. You might consider using vacuum line caps or something similar if it's a concern. Also, I'm not sure if y'all are running a TPMS system on your Kodiak...if you are, I would consider adding one to the spare so you know the air pressure w/o having to drop it and verify good air pressure during your pre-trip checklist. Hope to see you and Abby out there.
Great Mod Adam and Abby!
nice! enjoyed watching the install.
With those flexible mounting tubes, the bounce when traveling my cause metal fatigue , I would mount the spare wheel/tyre nearest the carrier mounting bracket to the RV chassis/Frame as I could to stop the flexing mounting tubes .
Thank you for doing this video. I've really been considering one of these. I'm gonna wait until y'all get back from Big Haul if all goes well. I'm pulling the trigger
Putting a snug fitting, heavy walled rubber hose of appropriate length onto the drill bit, prevents excessive punch-threw when drilling by hand.
Yep that’s a good tip 👏🏼
Since you have access to the back side, why nut use bolts with nylock nuts on them? The self tappers may back out over time with road vibrations.
Hey Adam. You can put the ratchet wrench on the bolt and the ring wrench on the nut. Then the bolt can protrude further. I just wanted to share this. A fan from Belgium. :)
Adam, surprised you didn't turn a "threaded Plug" for the center of the wheel.. one 5/8 bolt hold the tire in place. 🤩
Now I would like to do this for my trailer
I will have to try those drill bits. Why is it that all the bits I seem to buy for metal seem to struggle so much when I drill steel? I watch your other channel and see the bits you use in your machine shop go through steel like butter. Whats different about those, other than I'm sure they are expensive?
I like it, its the one i would like to have, as fare as tank mount how much room do you have between the top of the rail and the bottom of the rv. Ive got a 36 gal rino tank.
YES!! More room for decals lol😁
Aww, can't put fancy, funny or patriotic spare tire covers on anymore. Thanks for your how to.
To channel my inner Abby. . . That little socket you're using to tighten the screws is just adorable. 😜
Good job....if only I had a vise.
Wife and i love your videos
Good video bud. Very informative.
Question:
Why is it that you removed the tire from the rear bumper?
I am fixing to weld me a bracket on the rear bumper for my tire. Seems more practical to have it in the rear how you had it.
I know sometimes we just look to add the next new feature right.
Just seems kinda flimsy.
The other video with the under storage was pretty good too.
Thanks for sharing.
A cargo carrier with a cargo box will be going at the back where the spare tire was.
I wonder if you can put 2 spears 🤔
I was coming to say the same thing. UPDATE: I just found this on the BAL website. "Only one tire per carrier allowed. 100 lb tire/wheel limit. Additional Tire Mount Plates not available for purchase."
You could put fifty spears under there. 😂😂😂😂
Loved that intro. You could do that more often.👍
Hey Adam, I’ve been trying to figure out a way to move my spare from the front compartment. Problem is I have a gas line that runs down the I-beam on the inside of the frame so nothing that mounts flush with the bottom of the frame would work. Look like you have had the same issue. This looks like it would work for that? I just couldn’t quite get the right camera angle to see. Thanks-Dennis
Rather than buy a new cover, maybe consider just adding 4 gromets to the bottom of the cover and securing (and also tightening the cover) it with a line of some type. As soon as I saw the cover, I would be concerned with it coming off, even if tighter with a new one. I understand it would be aggravating to remove but keeping it clean is worth covering it. I don't think an elastic band sewn into the cover would be sufficient (for me anyway) to keep it from possibly blowing off. The wind is blowing directly on it now as opposed to being mounted behind the camper. Good video. I didn't know undermount systems were available for campers.
Unhook the spare tire bracket and lower it to the ground. Carefully pull it till the tubes separate and reconnect those tubes with about 6 inches of the smaller ones inside the larger ones; connect the frame-mounted bracket with a chord, light chain, or bungee chord to the rail-mounted frame so you know to not pull any more than that. A light bungee chord would supply enough pull to keep the other chord from flopping around. Those light chords may be a little bit of a nuisance but will be better than pulling the tubes apart on the side of the road somewhere and probably in miserable weather.
That's totally awesome. I just ordered one the other day it should be here Monday👍🇺🇲
LOL I would never argue with the A-bomb. I love your videos. And I've had to cut my underbelly a few times and I use the Gorilla tape and it holds really well 👍🇺🇲
That’s pretty cool, so now were are going to put your star wrench?
Not needed. . .Impact wrench in the truck.
You should see if you can find a small toolbox that would fit inside the rim, so you can have the appropriate tools always together with the spare (to remove it from the bracket, and to mount it properly, like you had the 4-way previously)
How is this unit working for you so far Thanks
Love the channel. Love Abom. But we need more Abby on this channel, bro. Just saying
That is just sweet! -Abby 😊
Looks good. Great job. Did you cover the tips of the self tapping screws with something or are they far enough away from the ducting tube?
It looks long enough to hold 2 spare tires, but are the tubes strong enough?
Great modification. Maybe it was the camera angle, but it looks like you’re getting uneven wear on the driver’s side tire.
I would delete the thumb screw and use a good padlock instead.
I live in England and so wildlife is not really harmful - do you worry about snakes when you are crawling around under the Kodiac either curled around the frame or coming up out of a hole?
You might want to add spacer tubes on them tire holding bolts so you get a snug fit instead of just bending the plate when tightening
Or add another nut and washer to the bolt. Then mount the hub and bolt it down. Just tightening those nuts just bends that piece of sheet metal.
Good job!
Hi Adam and Abby....I just your spare tire won't vibrate during your travel...take care of yourselves always...
I was thinking the same thing with the condition of the roads where I live I'm not so sure that that brackets heavy enough to hold the spare tire without there being excessive vibration and perhaps there be a catastrophic failure.
Did anyone notice a cat at the beginning of the video? He looks gorgeous! Is it your cat Adam?
There’s a few cats that hang around who don’t belong to us. I believe they live next door but roam the neighborhood.
Shhhh, Adam will be finding a way to Barbecue it. 🙂
Great idea! 🙂
I am good with everything about the installation except for the bending of the copper line. If you have to get behind something like this, don’t 😂the line, that could cause a leak.
What has happened to your table? Once in urgent need of a piece of flat iron? 😂
Humm, you should flat a tire and see if you can still get the spare out...
Isn't drilling holes in your rv frame , especially rails considered dangerous ??
👍😀
Great video. Now you have a place to chain a dog also
Can you provide a link to the self tapping screws you used to attach the panels to the frame ?
Thanks
Ok I've been doing some further reading on this because one of my first thoughts was doesn't drilling holes into the rails weaken it ?
It appears the rails is one of the places you shouldn't be doing any form of drilling since the holes increase the potential for fracture points
This product should not be recommending drilling holes like this period, it is dangerous
I imagine wasp/bees making a nest inside that tire and cover