OK, well that cam pick up point is not where it needs to be at dead idle. That mark is to syncronize the throttle cam and carb butterfly. The carb should begin to open when the mark on the cam bisects the roller. But, again, this is not the idle speed position, the throttle cam is usually more retarded and not even touching the roller at dead idle. The black knob on the side is what sets the idle speed. Don't get too hung up on that twist grip throttle indicator, notoriously inaccurate. There is usually quite a bit of slop in the twist grip also, due to the poor design of all the plastic throttle gears/shaft, etc. New parts are very expensive. Again, you are confused about the idle setting...That mark on the cam should bisect the roller when the carb just starts to open, but this is NOT supposed to be idle speed.... I just don't want you going crazy over something that isn't broke....Once the boat is in the water and idling at the lowest speed possible in gear, turn the black idle speed control so the plastic arm contacts the tab on the vertical control rod. This will keep the throttle from being turned below whatever idle speed in gear you have chosen/set, so the engine won't stall....D You probably have this all set by now anyway...
Lol kind of. That black idle speed on the side was broken or something it never got closer then a 1/4 in of where it should have been. So I’m convinced the motor was running fine but maybe that part had been replaced with the wrong one or something like that. Thanks for the write up, it confirms everything I found also while trying to get it all to work like I thought it should!
@@markbuilds Yeah, that idle control knob is more cheap plastic that usually breaks...I usually have to grind/sand some of the plastic threads flat so I can extend the plastic arm enough to it connects with the vertical control rod stop also...Some of these pieces are very cheap and not designed well, pretty expensive to replace though! Sorry you went through all this trouble... That is a great old engine, and is irreplaceable today...Take good care of it...
Bit y u Y yt u Y is gis y not y Y y y y y y u Y 😮😢🎉😂❤😅😊😊😅😮😢🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉😢😮😮😅😅😅😮😅😮😮😅😅😂❤😂🎉😮😢🎉😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢looufruhts😊 ed Hyde’s high fed go ithuhg try gr
For my early 1990 Johnson 15. If your low speed needle is set at 1.5 turns out and does not work for idle or anywhere near it, it can be 3.5 turns out! With much searching, I could only find the answer from a comment. Low and behold it's idling! Make sure your throttle cable is set right and lines up with the timing mark behind the carbs Oh and it's all easy peasy work after removing starter. Good luck 🤞🏻
The throttle cam follower is supposed to have that delayed contact at the low idle range. That was a common OMC design for single-carb engines. And the timing alignment appears correct. The lowest range of RPM is governed entirely by the timing while the throttle plate remains stationary. The cam follower comes into contact at the timing mark; and the throttle plate is active from that point upward through the rest of the RPM range. That confuses a tradition mechanic because we're accustomed to RPM being governed by controlling the air flow. But on those motors, RPM is (at least initially) controlled by ignition timing.
the linkage may have been right but your idle jet not set right,, the idle jet is an engine tune adjustment, and the trolling speed knob on the side is a fine tuning linkage adjustment,.
friend I have the same engine johnson 15 year 1978. How do I find the manual? I need a manual for this engine. Thankful if you can help me. God bless you.
As already noted see Kodibas on UA-cam he nevers disassembled until he has done a facts test and give motor a look over The groaning when turning throttle is clue something needs lubricating urgently
Thanks, I’d already tried a ton of stuff off camera. I pretty much narrowed it down to either a wrong idle speed thing installed that was too short. I have no other explanation for why I couldn’t adjust the idle stop to stop in the right place. Disassembling was just to make sure I didn’t miss anything. And to see how it all worked. Thanks for the comments!
An added note: I don't know about the 15s. But the 9.9 and smaller engines did not have a kill switch or button. Those were designed to be killed by low-idle stall. Death by starvation, as I call it, lol. That was a common way of killing small engines back in those days. So if you have no kill button or on/off switch, then the motor is supposed to die at lowest idle. In which case, an issue you might instead be experiencing is that the throttle drops if you don't continually hold onto the control. When you let go, it vibrates to its stalling/kill position--which is not very far from idle/run, so it's not always obvious that is what's happening. I've even had it happen while holding the control, and not perceive it due to the very small distance. Assuming that is the case, I would consider 2 options. A: Accept it as a safety feature and just plan to maintain grip while motor is running. Or B: Tighten the throttle control joints and connections all the way back and into the motor compartment.
hello friend I am a follower of Uruguay I have a johnson 15 engine identical to the one you have I would like to know how you have regulated the air inlet of the carburetor how many turns should I thank you very much I am using the google translator
@@markbuilds At this precise moment I am watching your video number two where you have a problem with supposedly the needle that gives more fuel input. and I saw that you said that it could be worn in the end, could you tell if it was so? because the same thing happens to me and sometimes the engine works fine and sometimes it doesn't and the problem is always there
@@markbuilds thank you very much my friend what you do is very good and again greetings from uruguay I don't know if you know or heard Uruguay at some time haha greetings
@@markbuilds Thanks Mark. I have the same problem where the cam follower is about the same distance from the cam so It never really reaches full throttle. I'll be following your video's. I also have a broken starter pulley. Funny, same problems on our 40+ year old out boards.
Bro I don't understand why you're disassembling the whole throttle body when it's apparent you have a linkage that needs adjustment I watched it just to see some of the parts
OK, well that cam pick up point is not where it needs to be at dead idle. That mark is to syncronize the throttle cam and carb butterfly. The carb should begin to open when the mark on the cam bisects the roller. But, again, this is not the idle speed position, the throttle cam is usually more retarded and not even touching the roller at dead idle. The black knob on the side is what sets the idle speed. Don't get too hung up on that twist grip throttle indicator, notoriously inaccurate. There is usually quite a bit of slop in the twist grip also, due to the poor design of all the plastic throttle gears/shaft, etc. New parts are very expensive.
Again, you are confused about the idle setting...That mark on the cam should bisect the roller when the carb just starts to open, but this is NOT supposed to be idle speed.... I just don't want you going crazy over something that isn't broke....Once the boat is in the water and idling at the lowest speed possible in gear, turn the black idle speed control so the plastic arm contacts the tab on the vertical control rod. This will keep the throttle from being turned below whatever idle speed in gear you have chosen/set, so the engine won't stall....D
You probably have this all set by now anyway...
Lol kind of. That black idle speed on the side was broken or something it never got closer then a 1/4 in of where it should have been. So I’m convinced the motor was running fine but maybe that part had been replaced with the wrong one or something like that. Thanks for the write up, it confirms everything I found also while trying to get it all to work like I thought it should!
@@markbuilds Yeah, that idle control knob is more cheap plastic that usually breaks...I usually have to grind/sand some of the plastic threads flat so I can extend the plastic arm enough to it connects with the vertical control rod stop also...Some of these pieces are very cheap and not designed well, pretty expensive to replace though! Sorry you went through all this trouble... That is a great old engine, and is irreplaceable today...Take good care of it...
Bit y u Y yt u Y is gis y not y Y y y y y y u Y 😮😢🎉😂❤😅😊😊😅😮😢🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉😢😮😮😅😅😅😮😅😮😮😅😅😂❤😂🎉😮😢🎉😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢looufruhts😊 ed Hyde’s high fed go ithuhg try gr
Not cry if😊 retirementery
U did great I just want to say and u showed the idle screw no where near the lever being a key factor to idle…solution found thank you so much!!
Glad to help!!
For my early 1990 Johnson 15. If your low speed needle is set at 1.5 turns out and does not work for idle or anywhere near it, it can be 3.5 turns out!
With much searching, I could only find the answer from a comment. Low and behold it's idling!
Make sure your throttle cable is set right and lines up with the timing mark behind the carbs
Oh and it's all easy peasy work after removing starter.
Good luck 🤞🏻
The throttle cam follower is supposed to have that delayed contact at the low idle range. That was a common OMC design for single-carb engines. And the timing alignment appears correct. The lowest range of RPM is governed entirely by the timing while the throttle plate remains stationary. The cam follower comes into contact at the timing mark; and the throttle plate is active from that point upward through the rest of the RPM range.
That confuses a tradition mechanic because we're accustomed to RPM being governed by controlling the air flow. But on those motors, RPM is (at least initially) controlled by ignition timing.
the linkage may have been right but your idle jet not set right,, the idle jet is an engine tune adjustment, and the trolling speed knob on the side is a fine tuning linkage adjustment,.
Good job.I would like to know where you got the manual, as I am looking for one for a 1982 15hp Evinrude 2-stroke. Thank you.
It’s been a long time but I probably got it off eBay. We’ll have to see if anyone comments with better info sorry
friend I have the same engine johnson 15 year 1978. How do I find the manual? I need a manual for this engine. Thankful if you can help me. God bless you.
As already noted see Kodibas on UA-cam he nevers disassembled until he has done a facts test and give motor a look over
The groaning when turning throttle is clue something needs lubricating urgently
There is another OM Fishing where the guy shows you how to check timing at idle and open throttle with taking the motor to bits...
Thanks, I’d already tried a ton of stuff off camera. I pretty much narrowed it down to either a wrong idle speed thing installed that was too short. I have no other explanation for why I couldn’t adjust the idle stop to stop in the right place. Disassembling was just to make sure I didn’t miss anything. And to see how it all worked. Thanks for the comments!
An added note:
I don't know about the 15s. But the 9.9 and smaller engines did not have a kill switch or button. Those were designed to be killed by low-idle stall. Death by starvation, as I call it, lol. That was a common way of killing small engines back in those days. So if you have no kill button or on/off switch, then the motor is supposed to die at lowest idle.
In which case, an issue you might instead be experiencing is that the throttle drops if you don't continually hold onto the control. When you let go, it vibrates to its stalling/kill position--which is not very far from idle/run, so it's not always obvious that is what's happening. I've even had it happen while holding the control, and not perceive it due to the very small distance.
Assuming that is the case, I would consider 2 options. A: Accept it as a safety feature and just plan to maintain grip while motor is running. Or B: Tighten the throttle control joints and connections all the way back and into the motor compartment.
There was a kill switch on the engine but this is great info to know thank you!
Looks like your cam roller is missing the outer sleeve. Most common failure. Part 396236
Thanks! Super helpful
MY JHONSON ENGINE DOESN'T WANT TO HOLD AT IDLE OR START VERY EASILY WHAT COULD IT BE? I'M FROM BRAZIL
hello friend I am a follower of Uruguay I have a johnson 15 engine identical to the one you have I would like to know how you have regulated the air inlet of the carburetor how many turns should I thank you very much I am using the google translator
Turn it all the way in and then a turn out. Adjust from there and you should be good
@@markbuilds At this precise moment I am watching your video number two where you have a problem with supposedly the needle that gives more fuel input. and I saw that you said that it could be worn in the end, could you tell if it was so? because the same thing happens to me and sometimes the engine works fine and sometimes it doesn't and the problem is always there
@@markbuilds how much would mark have to turn it?
I never could tell no, I just ended up running it like it was and knowing not to turn the throttle to low
@@markbuilds thank you very much my friend what you do is very good and again greetings from uruguay I don't know if you know or heard Uruguay at some time haha greetings
At 5:10, What is that thing and what is it's function? Mine is broken and missing. Thanks.
All it does is prevents you from being able to start it at full throttle in gear so you dont start it and go fucking flying, yk?
Are you certain you know what you need to remove it looks you disassembled outboard but not getting to be able to fix it ..
More diagnosis requires.
You are correct, I never did find an issue. Was looking for something broken or gears out of mesh
Do you have a link for the service manual?
I think I just searched the year on eBay. You probably have to get lucky that someone is selling it
@@markbuilds Thanks Mark. I have the same problem where the cam follower is about the same distance from the cam so It never really reaches full throttle. I'll be following your video's. I also have a broken starter pulley. Funny, same problems on our 40+ year old out boards.
The same plastic bits always seem to fail! Good luck!
Bro I don't understand why you're disassembling the whole throttle body when it's apparent you have a linkage that needs adjustment I watched it just to see some of the parts
Glad it could be helpful! I’ve never torn one apart so it was half learning for me and half seeing if anything was broken. Mostly learning though.
Linkage adjusted? More info please
Get a flywheel puller
Got two somewhere. Didn’t need it!
Mark Builds good video
Thank you!
Thanks for wasting 17 minutes of my life, you fixed nothing.
Np