There's a setting on the multimeter for continuity, which is a better way to determine if the heating element is still good within the O2 sensor. If you have continuity, the multimeter will make an audible sound (test this by touching the two leads together), and you know that the heating element is still good. If you don't have continuity between the two black wires on the O2 sensor, then this means the heating element has burned out.
That's a good example of "You get what you paid for." When I tell a customer what the price is for a new O2 or A/F sensor, many of them tell me that they will supply the part themselves. That is when I inform them that my policy is when the customer provides the part, the repair has no warranty. I hate to do that but I can't afford to constantly change a part for free because of subpar parts. That would be a great deal for the customer while I couldn't afford to eat three meals a day..... Great job of making that point with your video....
HAHAHAHHAHAHA sure my dude i got a rapair for 64000 in our money and got sensors that are not compatible with my car from the repair shop and they refuse to give back my money.. i will sue them...
@@69420maaan Can you read??? i paid 6400 or the parts THEY put in since they won't put in the parts i brought and my car didn't make it home form the shop and the y refuse to pay back my money and my car still isn't running. I say it's sue worthy....
Your video helped me. In my case, the A/F sensor in the car had a bad heater, and was the right part, but the eBay part was misrepresented as working for this 2002 Camry, but was the wrong part. Using the P/N from the old part, instead of claimed online compatibility is the better approach.
you need to set multimeter on the mega ohm reading...you wont get any reading on 200 ohms... its a heater coil and has lots of resistance...hence heats up when powered. You can attach a 5v dc supply and see if it starts to feel warm in a few seconds...caution, it can get really hot fast.
Heating elements in general need to be of low resistance so more electricity (amperage) will go through them in order to produce heating (work). That's why in big appliances they consume a lot of power.. P = V x I. And since voltage is a constant I is getting higher through low resistance. I = V/R and since again voltage is constant R should be low to get bigger I (number of electrons passing through a wire at a given moment) Hope this helps
Just checked my 2-wire, Bank1 Sensor2 sensor and got infinite on all ohm settings and even on an analog meter. Can I assume sensor has an open circuit?
I mean, I don't know the range for O2 sensors but I had mine set to 200 ohms and it showed infinity for my coil pack, then another, then another. I knew I couldn't have had three coil packs out, so I set the range to 2000 and then their readings show up, all around 340 ohms.
I have a code p0131 (o2 sensor s1b1 low voltage) on my 2015 jetta thats after i already change the o2 sensor s1b1 which was faulty Things i did 1-change o2 sensor s1b1 2-changed spark plugs 3- catalytic cleaner liqui moly 2cans 4-oil and filter change ( i know it has nothing todo with it) What is the problem😔
Thanks vincent, i am getting a p0135 code and i checked the same way. I can see resistance and continuity in the multimeter. I recently had a short in fuse 15 igps oil level. And strangely cel came on. I thought oil switch might have gone bad but got a code p0135. Now when the o2 sensor seems fine, how can i check the harness plug which connects to the the sensor. I tried the same test on car harness plug but didnt get any reading.
@@wildestcowboy2668 Here the cost is somewhat same for fuel right now, around $1.5 for a litre, used to be $1 an year ago, but the purchasing power is quite less in comparison, with bad roads, and high traffic it becomes even less viable.
Nice vid. Hey, regarding those ebay sensors you buy, how have those ever worked for you?? I want to test them out but does a bad one have the potential to damage your car (engine/cat/exhaust)? Or are they okay to experiment with? Thanks!!!
The eBay sensors simply don’t work as the ECU ignores their signal. The car will run but it runs quite rough when it can’t detect an O2 sensor and you get poorer fuel economy.
@@kevinnghe6685i know u commented 3 years ago but o2 sensor is one you should just not be cheap on. Ive read lots of forum posts from guys saying they bkught the cheaper units that most often fail around 3 months or less. I suggest eo replacement, or moog makes high quality o2 sensors. So while it may work at installation, it likely will fail much sooner than it should. Failed o2 sensor will cost you money in fuel as car will be less efficient. And it can cause ur vehicle to run rich which will eventuslly cause damage to your cat(s)
The downstream O2 sensor on my 2004 Honda CRV seems to test fine, but the wiring harness seems wonky. With the key on, I only get voltage between the top left and bottom right pins. Also, I have a P0134 code, but the A/F sensor and harness test okay. I haven't done the heater test with the car running, yet.
The "heater test" is done with key off - engine off. It can be done with the parteither installed or out of the vehicle. Simply check the resistance between the two wires of the same color (usually two white or two black wires but it does vary with the color; just use the two matching colors) as that will be your heater circuit.
Is it possible to have p0420 code when your upstream sensor is showing zero volt? I check voltage with digital meter and it shows zero volts. I don't see anything wrong with catalytic converter. What's your take?
@@SamSam-ih6nt bad catalytic converter. Instead of replacing it, I installed a spacer/extender between the downstream sensor and catalytic converter. It got rid of p0420 code. The only downside is that it burns more gas and the engine runs rough.
@@mjawad6765 Doesn't necessarily mean a bad catalytic converter. Could be an exhaust leak or raw gas getting in exhaust from a misfire or bad 02 sensor or wiring. Actually if you just unplug the 02 sensor P0420 will show up.
The abbreviation "OL" means "OverLoad" It simply means that what you are measuring is beyond the range selected. Out Of Range would be a better description. This is not an opinion, this can be read in all manufacturers' user manuals.
gday, you cannot assume that we can see exactly where you turn the dial on your multimeter. and since this is a tutorial, then focus on where the multimeter is dialed to please. because all multimeters are not copies of the same.
Some things that you get on The Bay are okay. Electronics are usually not one of them. For such things I would rather spend the extra money at a local parts store because I can get instant satisfaction is there is a problem. Also, there is no shipping delay and so on. On many things related to vehicles, the local parts store is the best choice. It also helps to keep local people employed!
I got a bad PCV valve for my Camry on ebay...... It made squeaky noises that I thought were the belt or alternator.... I then bought an OEM Toyota valve on Amazon..... Problem solved ! I buy plastic parts on ebay, but I have concluded that other stuff are imperfect factory reject parts bought by the truckload for pennies
O L means the multi metre is on the wrong scale of measurement ( O L = out of limits ) eg; You want to measure ohm's over 2 ohm's and you have the dial selected to measure under 2 ohm's it can't measure it because its O L out of limits.
There's a setting on the multimeter for continuity, which is a better way to determine if the heating element is still good within the O2 sensor. If you have continuity, the multimeter will make an audible sound (test this by touching the two leads together), and you know that the heating element is still good. If you don't have continuity between the two black wires on the O2 sensor, then this means the heating element has burned out.
That's a good example of "You get what you paid for." When I tell a customer what the price is for a new O2 or A/F sensor, many of them tell me that they will supply the part themselves. That is when I inform them that my policy is when the customer provides the part, the repair has no warranty. I hate to do that but I can't afford to constantly change a part for free because of subpar parts. That would be a great deal for the customer while I couldn't afford to eat three meals a day..... Great job of making that point with your video....
HAHAHAHHAHAHA sure my dude i got a rapair for 64000 in our money and got sensors that are not compatible with my car from the repair shop and they refuse to give back my money.. i will sue them...
@@maszkalman3676huh ?
Are you saying that if you brought your own part and it failed and caused damage... you would sue the shop ?
@@69420maaan Can you read??? i paid 6400 or the parts THEY put in since they won't put in the parts i brought and my car didn't make it home form the shop and the y refuse to pay back my money and my car still isn't running. I say it's sue worthy....
Right to the point. Just what I needed. I got a bad O2 sensor. Thanks!
I got a warped Johnson rod I have used the heck out of on the neighbors wife!
Your video helped me. In my case, the A/F sensor in the car had a bad heater, and was the right part, but the eBay part was misrepresented as working for this 2002 Camry, but was the wrong part. Using the P/N from the old part, instead of claimed online compatibility is the better approach.
you need to set multimeter on the mega ohm reading...you wont get any reading on 200 ohms... its a heater coil and has lots of resistance...hence heats up when powered. You can attach a 5v dc supply and see if it starts to feel warm in a few seconds...caution, it can get really hot fast.
Heater resistance will be less than 200 ohms. If it doesn't show on that scale, it's broken.
Your explanation is better...thankx
Heating elements in general need to be of low resistance so more electricity (amperage) will go through them in order to produce heating (work). That's why in big appliances they consume a lot of power.. P = V x I. And since voltage is a constant I is getting higher through low resistance. I = V/R and since again voltage is constant R should be low to get bigger I (number of electrons passing through a wire at a given moment) Hope this helps
Great job explaining
How did you resolve the non-working e-bay sensor? Also what did you end up buying I also have a 2004 honda civic. Mine is an EX.
Love your honesty bro, I've fallen victim to"Cheap Amazon and Ebay" shit too. 😅
I tested my 4 white wire and at first it had a reading for 2 seconds then back to Zero. Did several times..same shit. Could it be a bad 02???
Just checked my 2-wire, Bank1 Sensor2 sensor and it was infinite on all ohm settings and on an analog meter. Can I assume it is an open circuit?
Just checked my 2-wire, Bank1 Sensor2 sensor and got infinite on all ohm settings and even on an analog meter. Can I assume sensor has an open circuit?
Excellent and right to the point without extra words...
Do you know if the sensor can go bad without the check engine light on? My mom has a 04 Civic and she averages like 20 mpg?
Thank you for this info!!
my vehicl o2 sensor has only a single wire coming out of it, can you please let me know how to test it
Thanks it is so easy to test off the car, great video.
Ive got.4 reading is that good?
I mean, I don't know the range for O2 sensors but I had mine set to 200 ohms and it showed infinity for my coil pack, then another, then another. I knew I couldn't have had three coil packs out, so I set the range to 2000 and then their readings show up, all around 340 ohms.
I have a code p0131 (o2 sensor s1b1 low voltage) on my 2015 jetta thats after i already change the o2 sensor s1b1 which was faulty
Things i did
1-change o2 sensor s1b1
2-changed spark plugs
3- catalytic cleaner liqui moly 2cans
4-oil and filter change ( i know it has nothing todo with it)
What is the problem😔
Thanks vincent, i am getting a p0135 code and i checked the same way. I can see resistance and continuity in the multimeter. I recently had a short in fuse 15 igps oil level. And strangely cel came on. I thought oil switch might have gone bad but got a code p0135. Now when the o2 sensor seems fine, how can i check the harness plug which connects to the the sensor. I tried the same test on car harness plug but didnt get any reading.
Crush it and buy a new Dodge charger. Get a HEMI son.
@@wildestcowboy2668 hehehe in India we dont have these and sky rocketing fuel prices, thinking of getting a bicycle instead.
@@aakudev Oh.... okay we'll just wandering how much is y'all's gas a gallon over there my friend? In Alabama ours is $2.59 a gallon.
@@wildestcowboy2668 Here the cost is somewhat same for fuel right now, around $1.5 for a litre, used to be $1 an year ago, but the purchasing power is quite less in comparison, with bad roads, and high traffic it becomes even less viable.
Thank you!
Thanks man! Right to the point!
Sorry to hear about your o2 sensor bro, rip
Nice vid. Hey, regarding those ebay sensors you buy, how have those ever worked for you?? I want to test them out but does a bad one have the potential to damage your car (engine/cat/exhaust)? Or are they okay to experiment with? Thanks!!!
The eBay sensors simply don’t work as the ECU ignores their signal. The car will run but it runs quite rough when it can’t detect an O2 sensor and you get poorer fuel economy.
Vincent Stevenson so, if I were to get an ebay one that turns off my CEL, does that mean it works? Some of them look like solid products, ie Kwiksen.
@@kevinnghe6685i know u commented 3 years ago but o2 sensor is one you should just not be cheap on.
Ive read lots of forum posts from guys saying they bkught the cheaper units that most often fail around 3 months or less.
I suggest eo replacement, or moog makes high quality o2 sensors.
So while it may work at installation, it likely will fail much sooner than it should. Failed o2 sensor will cost you money in fuel as car will be less efficient. And it can cause ur vehicle to run rich which will eventuslly cause damage to your cat(s)
The downstream O2 sensor on my 2004 Honda CRV seems to test fine, but the wiring harness seems wonky. With the key on, I only get voltage between the top left and bottom right pins.
Also, I have a P0134 code, but the A/F sensor and harness test okay. I haven't done the heater test with the car running, yet.
The "heater test" is done with key off - engine off. It can be done with the parteither installed or out of the vehicle. Simply check the resistance between the two wires of the same color (usually two white or two black wires but it does vary with the color; just use the two matching colors) as that will be your heater circuit.
@@jlcastille9017i need some help bro do you have ig or fb I can message you there
That happened to me thank you
My ebay 02 sensor won’t switch to closed loop. Triggers check engine
Mine too, even there's resistance when you check the 2 black wires.
thank you
"Open circuit", is the words you're looking for. ;) Helpful video though.
OL is for open line I thought
I was taught ol meant for overload meaning infinite resistance
Where do you set the multimeter to to check again?
continuity,
diode test with the diode symbol,
or the least resistance setting
Showing us the resistance of a good one would have been helpful
What was the meter setting you used?
Set it to continuety
Is it possible to have p0420 code when your upstream sensor is showing zero volt? I check voltage with digital meter and it shows zero volts. I don't see anything wrong with catalytic converter. What's your take?
Don't you wish people who made the video would answer lol
p0420 is downstream sensor and it is a bad cat it could look brand new and be bad
So what was it?
@@SamSam-ih6nt bad catalytic converter. Instead of replacing it, I installed a spacer/extender between the downstream sensor and catalytic converter. It got rid of p0420 code. The only downside is that it burns more gas and the engine runs rough.
@@mjawad6765 Doesn't necessarily mean a bad catalytic converter. Could be an exhaust leak or raw gas getting in exhaust from a misfire or bad 02 sensor or wiring. Actually if you just unplug the 02 sensor P0420 will show up.
The abbreviation "OL" means "OverLoad"
It simply means that what you are measuring is beyond the range selected.
Out Of Range would be a better description.
This is not an opinion, this can be read in all manufacturers' user manuals.
Not "Overload".... It's Open loop!
It's Oliver Lupino. The guy that invented the "OL" readout.
LOL 😂
gday, you cannot assume that we can see exactly where you turn the dial on your multimeter. and since this is a tutorial, then focus on where the multimeter is dialed to please. because all multimeters are not copies of the same.
Just like the ancient/prehistoric adage of you get what you pay for, I'd learned that lesson the hard way a long time ago.
Both my o2 sensors work but I still have the code.
Mine only Reads2.5
I thought heater wires were white?
Some things that you get on The Bay are okay. Electronics are usually not one of them. For such things I would rather spend the extra money at a local parts store because I can get instant satisfaction is there is a problem. Also, there is no shipping delay and so on. On many things related to vehicles, the local parts store is the best choice. It also helps to keep local people employed!
I got a bad PCV valve for my Camry on ebay...... It made squeaky noises that I thought were the belt or alternator.... I then bought an OEM Toyota valve on Amazon..... Problem solved ! I buy plastic parts on ebay, but I have concluded that other stuff are imperfect factory reject parts bought by the truckload for pennies
I got a reading of zero on my multimeter for oxygen sensor for heater terminals, when i set at 200 ohms. What does it mean?
Start by checking continuity. If you don't have continuity it's bad. If you do, try using a higher setting on resistance.
I got one on Amazon new!!! Ended of being garbage!!!😠
Usefulness 😂
O L means the multi metre is on the wrong scale of measurement ( O L = out of limits ) eg; You want to measure ohm's over 2 ohm's and you have the dial selected to measure under 2 ohm's it can't measure it because its O L out of limits.
I really don’t want to cut my wires
Don't have to just unplug it
Just probe the leads
That not how you test a o2 sensor bud
Maybe your multimeter is fucked up,like mine is.
No, he test it before by touching the 2 leads together already.
You didn't show anything !
You didn't explain anything !
You are just complaining about your purchase !
Wrong site for that !
Hamisu