I'm doing my first Tru-oil finish on a lefty neck for a reverse Strat and am blown away by how easily it goes on and how hard it cures. I'm doing one coat a day, cuz that's all the time I have for it right now. I've done 3 and each one looks deeper and richer. Great vid!
Thank you so very much for posting the video on tru Oil, I am going to be finishing a Cherrywood neck tomorrow and was at a loss I was contemplating a low gloss tung oil but I've heard such good things about tru oil just never tried, worst case I hate it and sand it however I think your video gave me what I needed to know Thanks for the great and short clip
In repairing a Taylor peghead ear that came unglued, I found I could lightly sand the repair then apply Tru-Oil and it blended in well with the poly finish Taylor uses.
@ulfpulf Since this is not considered a film finish like a lacquer or urethane it is possible to attach the bridge and still finish around it with the oil. Of course this depends on how thick you want to apply the oil. Oil doesn't lend itself well to thick finishes anyway though. Now, if you plan on leveling and buffing the finish then I would probably do that before attaching the bridge., If you do it this way don;t forget to mask off the bridge area before applying the finish.
I believe Tru Oil is made of linseed oil and and hardeners, where as the traditional gunstock finish is BLO, boiled linseed oil. Its a great way to apply a very nice finish to a gunstock, easy to use and dries fast. It comes in a liquid form and spray can, it also comes in a kit all you need. I notice that the vid contained no mention of using a tack cloth to remove sanding particles between coats.
Hi Robert! A great trick which I use myself is to apply Tru-Oil using unbleached (and unrecycled) coffee filter papers. These prevent large amounts of waste from oil absorbed into the applicator plus they are cheap! :-)
@ThePlaneterik Yes, the results are great. I use it mostly on necks. It is not meant to be a super high gloss product like a lacquer but it can buff up on a buffer. Be careful not to go through the layers, which are very thin.
Well, as a CYA most folks tell you to always take everything back to bare wood and them move forward again. If you do not then the next CYA is a barrier like a vinyl sealer or at least a wash coat of shellac. I would do some test pieces to see if what you want to do will work. My guess is it will.
Great video I used tru oil on my electric guitar and mandolin and love the sound....I like the nice thin finish super glossy for the real wood sound. But nice a polished look. I usually would spread it with my fingers to really feel out the grain/layers. I didn't really like having sticky fingers but I like to be in touch with my instrument all they way through the process. GREAT VIDEO AND LIVELY MUSIC i would love to play music for these videos! you gotta have more banjo.
I have up on tru oil today! I'm using it for the 1st time, I rubbed on 10 LIGHT coats. 3 per day at least 2 hours apart. Drying. Rubbed on with a small square of CLEAN tshirt cotton. I found it impossible to rub the oil on without lint straying onto the oil. It shows up and you can feel that Lint. Steel wool, Naphtha, apply and repeat. 10 times. Abort!! Steel wool the neck to matte finish. Apply 1 only coat of Howard's Feed'n'Wax. To fretboard AND neck. Perfection 1st time. No lint, hi gloss WITHOUT sticky. Very fast neck. I love the look and feel of tru oil and I dont mind the time it takes. But no thank you to lint. I did try finger rubbing it on and sure, no lint but then the oil "ridges". That's worse than lint! No more tru oil finishing. Only Howard"s Feed'n 'Wax. And don't buy that krap about build up of wax on fret board or rosewood "breathing"!! Gimme a break!
Especially to swamp ash but still alder needs to be filled as well. Here is a video on did on one way to pore fill. You need to decide on the type of finish you will use before choosing a pore filler.
Thanks for the video! I have a Warmth neck that was finished in satin. I want more of a shine to it and was turned on to tru oil by some friends. Would it be possible to apply the tru oil directly to the neck without taking off the satin finish?
Jon Kaneshiro Probably, but make sure the neck is clean with no guitar polish, silicone etc on it. Also, tru oil is tough to get a high gloss out of but it will be better than satin if done properly. Good luck.
@MitchRulzWorld That depends how much sealer is already there. That could be a finish all by itself. If it is real thin then go ahead and apply some true oil over the top. Good luck!
Thanks. I forgot to mention it's a maple neck / rosewood board strat copy neck from a Yamaha Pacifica 112. It doesn't look heavily finished but the areas I hit did look a bit shinier before.
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Can I spray Spraymax 2K Clear coat over my neck it was finished with tru oil. The Spraymax 2k clear is automotive clear can I steel wool it and tack cloth it and the spray the Spraymax 2K Clear over it thanks.
Thanks I will do some samples. From watching your video I feel confident about the body and neck. I am still concerned about how the Truoil will cover a quilted tops end grain pattern.
I always appreciate your teaching me style and clarity, Robbie! I'm working on finishing a tenor ukulele with true oil. I have three coats on and want to sand and then do more. You are using fine steel wool for the neck, which I did. I used 0000. But I'm hesitant to you still wool on the body. is there a particular grit to use between coats with a pad? Thank you!
Reply to my reply. Wow I wish I knew or had confidence in this product so much sooner the neck came out flawless I had been using Danish oil on my body which had a very nice Walnut top, I just had this beautiful shine but kept getting little dust bunnies boogerd and id wersand then put another coat of Danish oil on it kept wet sanding it down I was about ready to give up on this body is I have done work on Walnut before and it can be challenging to get a clean finish on it I thought? I wonder if I gave a 1200 grit wet sand still had the Walnut finish but a bit hazy, i put two coats of the Tru oil on and it is better than I could have ever imagined, it brought the Walnut shine right back out there's no little dust spots anywhere the shine is brilliant I'm sure I'll add a couple more coats but again thank you you put me down a path I will probably never veer from again
Hello. Is there an odor to Tru Oil that will linger with the guitar? I'm not sure if I want to go with this or a tung oil. Also, do you find that the Tru Oil colors or tints the wood more dramatically than tung oil? Thanks.
I haven't noticed an odor after it is cured. Any oil will darken the wood a bit so take that into consideration. For example, for my tastes I think tru oil on rosewood is too dark.
Most anything will work. Shellac, sanding sealer etc. Remember though that oil likes to penetrate the wood and this helps enhance the color and grain. If you seal you will not get this effect.
I would first determine what finish is on the neck. It sounds like it is a lacquer or other synthetic resin. If this is the case then tru oil is not a good product to repair this with.
I level between several applications like I show in the video. It you want to rub it out to a higher gloss you can but remember that the layers are thin. Don't go through them.
If the finish is not to my liking do I need to sand it out first, or can I just shoot a nitrocellulose lacquer over it? If I don't need to sand out the Truoil would I need a vinyl sealer barrier before shooting the Nitro. Thanks again for you help.
Is this in anyway similar to products like Watco (penetrating oils w/varnish). Had a small bodied Guild “Classical” (maybe 630mm scale??) back in the early 60s that had a matt finish and I now wonder if it was an oil finish. The guitar was made entirely of honduran mahogany. Body, soundboard, neck, bracing…. all mahogany with an ebony fingerboard and no bindings or purfling. Sweet little guitar. Anyway, I’ve thought of duplicating from memory in sapele and finishing w/Watco.?????
i use behlen's violin varnish. and it gets tacky SO quickly its hard to get a good smooth finish. I've heard that thinning it even a little bit will thin the resins in the wood. I went on yahoo answers and asked about it and this is one of the answers i got. just looking for clarity "Don't thin it at all. is these natural resins that carry the sound through the wood.
You skip over "pore filled if used on an open-grain wood." That is EXACTLY the question that is never discussed on the many videos about finishing Fender electric necks, which are of close-grained maple and need no filling. Acoustics never have these easily-smoothed maple necks.
Hi Robert O'Brien. Very good video. I've got an unfinished maple neck and plan to use it in a project guitar. Does it need to be sealed before apply Tru Oil or Tung Oil? Just the oil can keep the neck stable againts wheater ? Thanks.
Great informative video! I am about to finish some White Eastern Pine guitar amp cabinets (similar to Trainwreck Amp cabs) What would you suggest I use to seal the grain prior to using the Tru-oil? Thank you.
I'm just finishing my first refret and I accidentally removed some finish from the sides of my rosewood fingerboard. Could this oil be used to refinish the areas I've hit? Would it be wiser to apply it to the whole neck at once? thanks.
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). What's Stand oil? Stand oil is refined linseed oil place in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500° for an extended period of time (days/hours). It's viscous, much more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It is not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw linseed oil or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for centuries and is available online or at good art supply houses - I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. So many people have been snowed by Birchwood Casey and their "proprietary formulas."
If you use this over a water based stained top do you need to seal it with a vinyl sealer before starting with the truoil? Thanks in advance for your reply!
Will is be smooth like a satin finish? rather than sticky like a gloss? Also is it ok if it gets on the edge of a rosewood fingerboard, where the fret ends are?
Thanks! Is there something I should do to the wood to prep it to receive the whitewash -- I should mention that preserving the tone of my 100 yr old pine is important...
Depending on the wood you are using it has large open pores that will need to be filled before applying a finish. examples are rosewood, mahogany etc. Woods that do not need to be filled are maple, spruce, cedar etc. Good luck with the kit.
@OBrienGuitars Nice video, and I have a question: If you are going to put a waterslide decal on the neck, can you put Tru Oil over the decal without harming it? Or would you have to put the decal on after finishing with Tru Oil? Thanks!
That's a good question, and I'm wondering about as well. And perhaps the type of fingerboard wood could make a difference as well(?), in my case it would be on a maple board.
Hi, How sticky is that? I've got a PRS guitar but unfortunately the neck gloss has been peeling off and I want to remove all the finish and apply another finish but not thick as PRS gloss. Cheers
Sounds like you are going right over the wood. Unlike a toner that is floated in between a seal coat and topcoat, this is pretty permanent if you don't like it. I would wipe on a light coat and quickly wipe it off. Good luck.
Hi, I am currently working on my first electric guitar project, and I would like to use Tru Oil as a finish on my guitar body, but I will also be using ABS Plastic binding, and Paua AbaLam Purfling, will the tru oil cover these and protect them no problem?
I used angelus leather dye to color the guitar i am working on. Im looking at my options to finish the guitar. Do you recommend using a sanding sealer in my case before either wipe on poly or gun stock oil? thanks
You can finish a fretboard with tru oil as well. Keep it very thin and you will have no problem with the frets. Some people even thin it a bit during application.
I tried applying a bit of tru oil to a spruce top, but wasn't please with how it started to look. Some people advise putting a few coats of shellac before applying tru oil on spruce. Is this something you would recommend as well?
Hi Robbie,Love the informitive videos you upload on guitar building! I'm a woodworker and about to "attempt" to build my 1st acoustic guitar,armed with what I have learned from you,Kent Everret,tios from LMI and everthing else I could find over tbe last3 yrs.I have almost all the parts I need.My concern is"I know wbat sound I'm listening for but I can't play a guitar!Will this foil my attempt to build a good sounding &playable guitar? Thanks Norm ,
nice video. i've used Tru Oil (TO) on guitar necks. i swear by it now. and anyone who plays my necks ask what im using. is there a special rag you use? cuz TO is really sticky, and id be worried about fibers. ive applied it with my fingers and also used a coffee filter dipped in TO.
Can Tru Oil be used over a French Polish Shellac finish? Also, if one uses only the FPS finish on a guitar, as I am in the process of doing, how many applications are recommended? Finally, how do you do a final "polish" on a guitar that has been French Polished? Thanks, Steve
Yes, tru oil can be used over shellac and I recommend at least a seal coat of shellac if using oil on soundboards. The number of coats for a French polish depends on your tastes and application method. After applying a french polish shellac I rub it out to a bit higher gloss using swirl removers. You can also do nothing and have a very nice finish if done properly. Check out my online french polish course for more information on how I do it. www.obrienguitars.com/courses/french-polish/
I'm doing my first Tru-oil finish on a lefty neck for a reverse Strat and am blown away by how easily it goes on and how hard it cures. I'm doing one coat a day, cuz that's all the time I have for it right now. I've done 3 and each one looks deeper and richer. Great vid!
Thank you so very much for posting the video on tru Oil, I am going to be finishing a Cherrywood neck tomorrow and was at a loss I was contemplating a low gloss tung oil but I've heard such good things about tru oil just never tried, worst case I hate it and sand it however I think your video gave me what I needed to know
Thanks for the great and short clip
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
great video.
I love using Tru-oil. Thanks for the great video.
In repairing a Taylor peghead ear that came unglued, I found I could lightly sand the repair then apply Tru-Oil and it blended in well with the poly finish Taylor uses.
@ulfpulf Since this is not considered a film finish like a lacquer or urethane it is possible to attach the bridge and still finish around it with the oil. Of course this depends on how thick you want to apply the oil. Oil doesn't lend itself well to thick finishes anyway though. Now, if you plan on leveling and buffing the finish then I would probably do that before attaching the bridge., If you do it this way don;t forget to mask off the bridge area before applying the finish.
I believe Tru Oil is made of linseed oil and and hardeners, where as the traditional gunstock finish is BLO, boiled linseed oil. Its a great way to apply a very nice finish to a gunstock, easy to use and dries fast. It comes in a liquid form and spray can, it also comes in a kit all you need. I notice that the vid contained no mention of using a tack cloth to remove sanding particles between coats.
Hi Robert! A great trick which I use myself is to apply Tru-Oil using unbleached (and unrecycled) coffee filter papers. These prevent large amounts of waste from oil absorbed into the applicator plus they are cheap! :-)
@ThePlaneterik Yes, the results are great. I use it mostly on necks. It is not meant to be a super high gloss product like a lacquer but it can buff up on a buffer. Be careful not to go through the layers, which are very thin.
Well, as a CYA most folks tell you to always take everything back to bare wood and them move forward again. If you do not then the next CYA is a barrier like a vinyl sealer or at least a wash coat of shellac. I would do some test pieces to see if what you want to do will work. My guess is it will.
@MG2ndamendment Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video I used tru oil on my electric guitar and mandolin and love the sound....I like the nice thin finish super glossy for the real wood sound. But nice a polished look. I usually would spread it with my fingers to really feel out the grain/layers. I didn't really like having sticky fingers but I like to be in touch with my instrument all they way through the process. GREAT VIDEO AND LIVELY MUSIC i would love to play music for these videos! you gotta have more banjo.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing!
thank you Robert love the info
@ulfpulf Thanks. It really is a nice finish. It will coat bindings but I wouldn't use it on a fretboard.
I have up on tru oil today! I'm using it for the 1st time, I rubbed on 10 LIGHT coats. 3 per day at least 2 hours apart. Drying. Rubbed on with a small square of CLEAN tshirt cotton. I found it impossible to rub the oil on without lint straying onto the oil. It shows up and you can feel that Lint. Steel wool, Naphtha, apply and repeat. 10 times. Abort!! Steel wool the neck to matte finish. Apply 1 only coat of Howard's Feed'n'Wax. To fretboard AND neck. Perfection 1st time. No lint, hi gloss WITHOUT sticky. Very fast neck. I love the look and feel of tru oil and I dont mind the time it takes. But no thank you to lint. I did try finger rubbing it on and sure, no lint but then the oil "ridges". That's worse than lint! No more tru oil finishing. Only Howard"s Feed'n 'Wax. And don't buy that krap about build up of wax on fret board or rosewood "breathing"!! Gimme a break!
Loving the music..
Um vez fiz poli com boneca e incrivelmente ficou muito bom. Porem nao acertei mais a proporção que dilui e catalizei. Belo vídeo Robbie
@HudCouto Yes you can. If it is an acoustic guitar I would seal with a coat of shellac first.
Especially to swamp ash but still alder needs to be filled as well.
Here is a video on did on one way to pore fill. You need to decide on the type of finish you will use before choosing a pore filler.
Very well done!!
Thanks for the video! I have a Warmth neck that was finished in satin. I want more of a shine to it and was turned on to tru oil by some friends. Would it be possible to apply the tru oil directly to the neck without taking off the satin finish?
Jon Kaneshiro Probably, but make sure the neck is clean with no guitar polish, silicone etc on it. Also, tru oil is tough to get a high gloss out of but it will be better than satin if done properly. Good luck.
Not sticky at all and rubbed out with super fine steel wool and a small amount of wax it makes for a really fast neck.
@MitchRulzWorld That depends how much sealer is already there. That could be a finish all by itself. If it is real thin then go ahead and apply some true oil over the top. Good luck!
Good video ...love the swing guitar music too
Thanks. I forgot to mention it's a maple neck / rosewood board strat copy neck from a Yamaha Pacifica 112. It doesn't look heavily finished but the areas I hit did look a bit shinier before.
Great info here. I just bought a new bass. The neck is sanded and smooth ( but it feels, a little dry ). I want to add a Lite-Coat of Tru-oil, to add some slickness & hydration . . . but still retain that smooth Satin finish. Any input is greatly appreciated.
It will give you a glossy finish unless you rub it out to a satin.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks. Appreciate your feedback. oNe LovE from NYC
@HudCouto If you like this look the tru oil is fine for this type of finish
I use something very similar, Formby's Tung oil finish. the application is identical as are the results.
Is it just mineral oil? I read that Lemon Oil isn't from lemons at all. It's just lemon scented mineral oil. Are other oils basically the same too?
Yes it is possible. Just wipe on a few coats until you are happy with the results.
? Beautiful job, do you scrape the binding after finishing with the tru oil or do you leave the oil on? Thank you.
I do not scrape the finish off the side of the fretboard.
Can I spray Spraymax 2K Clear coat over my neck it was finished with tru oil. The Spraymax 2k clear is automotive clear can I steel wool it and tack cloth it and the spray the Spraymax 2K Clear over it thanks.
i just bought an allparts neck. the rear of the neck is not finished. the fingerboard is ebony. i am definitely trying tru oil.thanks, great video!!
@MitchRulzWorld A light sanding would help.
Not sure what you mean. If it needs touching up then just lightly scuff sand the entire area and re-apply.
Thanks I will do some samples. From watching your video I feel confident about the body and neck. I am still concerned about how the Truoil will cover a quilted tops end grain pattern.
I always appreciate your teaching me style and clarity, Robbie! I'm working on finishing a tenor ukulele with true oil. I have three coats on and want to sand and then do more. You are using fine steel wool for the neck, which I did. I used 0000. But I'm hesitant to you still wool on the body. is there a particular grit to use between coats with a pad? Thank you!
You can use the fine scotch brite pads. They will work fine. Thanks for watching my videos.
It probably would but not like applying directly to the wood. You could have adhesion issues as well.
I use a soft rag but basically anything will work. The coffee filter trick also works.
Reply to my reply. Wow I wish I knew or had confidence in this product so much sooner the neck came out flawless I had been using Danish oil on my body which had a very nice Walnut top, I just had this beautiful shine but kept getting little dust bunnies boogerd and id wersand then put another coat of Danish oil on it kept wet sanding it down I was about ready to give up on this body is I have done work on Walnut before and it can be challenging to get a clean finish on it I thought? I wonder if I gave a 1200 grit wet sand still had the Walnut finish but a bit hazy, i put two coats of the Tru oil on and it is better than I could have ever imagined, it brought the Walnut shine right back out there's no little dust spots anywhere the shine is brilliant I'm sure I'll add a couple more coats but again thank you you put me down a path I will probably never veer from again
Glad you found the process useful. Thanks for watching.
Yes, they do. They add 2 light coats of true oil, then buffed with carnauba wax.
Thank you for the very helpful video as always.after the true oil Does it need any Birchwood Casey Gun stock Wax ??
Hello. Is there an odor to Tru Oil that will linger with the guitar? I'm not sure if I want to go with this or a tung oil. Also, do you find that the Tru Oil colors or tints the wood more dramatically than tung oil? Thanks.
I haven't noticed an odor after it is cured. Any oil will darken the wood a bit so take that into consideration. For example, for my tastes I think tru oil on rosewood is too dark.
Most anything will work. Shellac, sanding sealer etc. Remember though that oil likes to penetrate the wood and this helps enhance the color and grain. If you seal you will not get this effect.
You can apply the tru oil directly to the maple.
There is very little sawdust. If you need to you can wipe off any residue with a paper towel and then apply new coats.
Flame maple is not open pored and therefore no pore filling required.
I would first determine what finish is on the neck. It sounds like it is a lacquer or other synthetic resin. If this is the case then tru oil is not a good product to repair this with.
I level between several applications like I show in the video. It you want to rub it out to a higher gloss you can but remember that the layers are thin. Don't go through them.
And what about korina wood? Does that need to be pore filled? It's hard to find information on this species!
Great video. I'll be watching many more
If the finish is not to my liking do I need to sand it out first, or can I just shoot a nitrocellulose lacquer over it? If I don't need to sand out the Truoil would I need a vinyl sealer barrier before shooting the Nitro.
Thanks again for you help.
@ThePlaneterik Absolutely!
Is this in anyway similar to products like Watco (penetrating oils w/varnish). Had a small bodied Guild “Classical” (maybe 630mm scale??) back in the early 60s that had a matt finish and I now wonder if it was an oil finish. The guitar was made entirely of honduran mahogany. Body, soundboard, neck, bracing…. all mahogany with an ebony fingerboard and no bindings or purfling. Sweet little guitar.
Anyway, I’ve thought of duplicating from memory in sapele and finishing w/Watco.?????
i use behlen's violin varnish. and it gets tacky SO quickly its hard to get a good smooth finish. I've heard that thinning it even a little bit will thin the resins in the wood. I went on yahoo answers and asked about it and this is one of the answers i got. just looking for clarity "Don't thin it at all. is these natural resins that carry the sound through the wood.
You skip over "pore filled if used on an open-grain wood." That is EXACTLY the question that is never discussed on the many videos about finishing Fender electric necks, which are of close-grained maple and need no filling. Acoustics never have these easily-smoothed maple necks.
I have several other videos on my UA-cam channel that discuss various methods and products for pore filling open pored woods.
@theburner88 john jorgenson
Hey, best thing in this post is the Gypsi music, congrats :-))
Hi Robert O'Brien.
Very good video.
I've got an unfinished maple neck and plan to use it in a project guitar.
Does it need to be sealed before apply Tru Oil or Tung Oil?
Just the oil can keep the neck stable againts wheater ?
Thanks.
Thanks for the video.
You mention pore-filling first if necessary- what would you recommend for this that's compatible with Tru-oil?
Shellac and sawdust works great for this.
Great informative video! I am about to finish some White Eastern Pine guitar amp cabinets (similar to Trainwreck Amp cabs) What would you suggest I use to seal the grain prior to using the Tru-oil? Thank you.
I'm just finishing my first refret and I accidentally removed some finish from the sides of my rosewood fingerboard. Could this oil be used to refinish the areas I've hit? Would it be wiser to apply it to the whole neck at once? thanks.
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). What's Stand oil?
Stand oil is refined linseed oil place in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500° for an extended period of time (days/hours). It's viscous, much more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It is not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw linseed oil or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for centuries and is available online or at good art supply houses - I've been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. So many people have been snowed by Birchwood Casey and their "proprietary formulas."
If you use this over a water based stained top do you need to seal it with a vinyl sealer before starting with the truoil?
Thanks in advance for your reply!
Will is be smooth like a satin finish? rather than sticky like a gloss? Also is it ok if it gets on the edge of a rosewood fingerboard, where the fret ends are?
Yes, it can be a smooth satin finish. Put it on the side of the fretboard as well as the neck.
thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Is there something I should do to the wood to prep it to receive the whitewash -- I should mention that preserving the tone of my 100 yr old pine is important...
Watco is probably similiar. I would use tru oil though.
Depending on the wood you are using it has large open pores that will need to be filled before applying a finish. examples are rosewood, mahogany etc. Woods that do not need to be filled are maple, spruce, cedar etc.
Good luck with the kit.
@OBrienGuitars Nice video, and I have a question: If you are going to put a waterslide decal on the neck, can you put Tru Oil over the decal without harming it? Or would you have to put the decal on after finishing with Tru Oil? Thanks!
That's a good question, and I'm wondering about as well. And perhaps the type of fingerboard wood could make a difference as well(?), in my case it would be on a maple board.
so if I want a satin feel as you stated, do i use the steel wool after the final coat that I would want? i don't want the finish to be too glossy
Hi, How sticky is that? I've got a PRS guitar but unfortunately the neck gloss has been peeling off and I want to remove all the finish and apply another finish but not thick as PRS gloss.
Cheers
Sounds like you are going right over the wood. Unlike a toner that is floated in between a seal coat and topcoat, this is pretty permanent if you don't like it. I would wipe on a light coat and quickly wipe it off. Good luck.
Can I put this over top of a white wash finish?
If so, will it change the color of the white wash (yellow it)?
Great video, thanks so much. Can you tell me if the Tru Oil can be tinted and if so what would work best?
Thanks for the info.
@OBrienGuitars Cool, have you tried it and are you happy with the result? Is it possible to use a buffer on it after your done?
/Erik
Oils have a tendency to darken things. I would do a test piece on some scrap before moving forward. If you like it then go with it.
Hi, I am currently working on my first electric guitar project, and I would like to use Tru Oil as a finish on my guitar body, but I will also be using ABS Plastic binding, and Paua AbaLam Purfling, will the tru oil cover these and protect them no problem?
Hi Robert, great video, Can I use it on a Gibson Les Paul LPJ (studio finish)? It protect the color dye of the guitar? Thanks!
Did you apply polyurethane or nitrocellulose on back of neck before?
No, just tru oil.
I'm completely new to working on guitars and have a cheap kit I'm working on at the moment. Was just wondering what you mean by pore filled?
Does that apply to Alder or Swamp Ash?
Another potentially silly question, but how do you go about filling the pores?
hi robert ... will the oil give results if applied to a satin coating such as an american fender?
is it possible to make natural finish, but with evident grain without gloss? Like a raw wood?
I used angelus leather dye to color the guitar i am working on. Im looking at my options to finish the guitar. Do you recommend using a sanding sealer in my case before either wipe on poly or gun stock oil? thanks
You are probably fine without a sanding sealer but I would do a sample board just to confirm.
Does the oil get hard enough to have on the guitar body?
/Erik
You can finish a fretboard with tru oil as well. Keep it very thin and you will have no problem with the frets. Some people even thin it a bit during application.
@@TheLordJesusChristChannel Are you saying not to oil a rosewood fretboard with this stuff?
I have a guitar neck that has a light coat of clear polyurethane on it....should I use wipe on poly?
I tried applying a bit of tru oil to a spruce top, but wasn't please with how it started to look. Some people advise putting a few coats of shellac before applying tru oil on spruce. Is this something you would recommend as well?
Try applying a seal coat of shellac to the spruce before applying the oil.
How long does it take to dry before waxing it ?
I would give it at least a few days. I live in Colorado which is dry.
@OBrienGuitars Thanks. Do I sand first?
What do you think about applying with finger tip like it says on bottle?
Hi Robbie,Love the informitive videos you upload on guitar building!
I'm a woodworker and about to "attempt" to build my 1st acoustic guitar,armed with what I have learned from you,Kent
Everret,tios from LMI and everthing else I could find over tbe last3 yrs.I have almost all the parts I need.My concern is"I know wbat sound I'm listening for but I can't play a guitar!Will this foil my attempt to build a good sounding &playable guitar?
Thanks Norm
,
nice video. i've used Tru Oil (TO) on guitar necks. i swear by it now. and anyone who plays my necks ask what im using.
is there a special rag you use? cuz TO is really sticky, and id be worried about fibers. ive applied it with my fingers and also used a coffee filter dipped in TO.
Are you familiar with "Formby's" Tung oil finish? the result looks just like Tru oil
Yes it needs to be filled. Look at it under some light and you will see the pores.
Yes you can.
Can Tru Oil be used over a French Polish Shellac finish? Also, if one uses only the FPS finish on a guitar, as I am in the process of doing, how many applications are recommended? Finally, how do you do a final "polish" on a guitar that has been French Polished? Thanks, Steve
Yes, tru oil can be used over shellac and I recommend at least a seal coat of shellac if using oil on soundboards. The number of coats for a French polish depends on your tastes and application method. After applying a french polish shellac I rub it out to a bit higher gloss using swirl removers. You can also do nothing and have a very nice finish if done properly. Check out my online french polish course for more information on how I do it. www.obrienguitars.com/courses/french-polish/
on a acoustic or steel string top as well?
Sure, be sure and seal it well with shellac first though.