Watching a seasoned mason, laying a brick looks like one fluid motion. I was always frustrated when I tried to replicate it. But seeing how you break that one fluid motion into a dozen micro steps enabled me to have a go at it! I am just finishing an outdoor kitchen including a wood fired brick oven and all thanks to you! I’m nowhere near a professional and my bricks don’t exactly go down in one nice motion, but the walls do get done! I wish I could send you a pic… I’m quite pleased with the outcome. Thank you! Joe
Thanks so much for the comment! I know exactly what you mean. When I see, let's say, a video tutorial on how to get something on my computer to work, and the presenter assumes I know some basic things, I get frustrated pretty quick! I'm glad you're able to do your own masonry work! I'm sure it looks great! Thanks again.
These are the best instructive videos I've seen on block work! leaves nothing to the imagination and leaves no holes. Thank you for taking the time to put this out to the public. After watching your videos, I was able to lay the first two courses of block alone on a 50'X80" building and they are plumb, strait, level and on bond. It would be great if you could show how to build a masonry lintel for a large opening. I have three 16' openings to deal with. Thanks again, Grateful Kindergartener!
Thanks for the comment! As for a 16' opening, the longest available concrete lintels I've seen were 12', which are okay for 10' openings. If you'd like to make a concrete lintel for a 16' span, I'd first ask an engineer. If you're using 8" block, and would like to make one yourself, something like a double bond beam, one on top of another) with 2 pieces of #4 rebar in each bond beam, with 24" of bearing on each side, may do the trick, but don't quote me! But again, anything over a 10' span, I'd contact an engineer. They should have software where they can put in the measurements and different parameters (block size, rebar size, grout strength, bearing load, etc.).
@@masonry201 Thank you for the response. I do have engineered plans for the building, but I'm not sure how to go about building the lintel. I wasn't able to include the photo of the plan.
@@stuwil7329 If constructing your own masonry lintel, you would need to sort of build a temporary wood framed wall in the opening you're crossing over, the width of the block you're using. The top plate (2x8 if using 8" block) is what you would lay the block "dry" on, no bed joint, across the opening. Using "bond beam" block, shaped like the letter "U" with a flat bottom when viewed from the side. Probably bearing 24" on each side of the opening. This would then get filled with grout and horizontal rebar. In your particular case, the bond beam may need to be doubled up, as in one on top of another. In this case, you'd still use bond beam block for the first course, laying your rebar in the bond beam with some globs of mortar to space them out, then use "knock out" block for the second course, then filling everything solid with grout. This is something that is commonly done over smaller openings, like door openings. Most of the time a piece of angle iron will bridge the span to hold the block up while the grout cures, then the angle iron is removed. I can make a video of this, but it wouldn't be for a long while. The school year is starting and there's a few other videos I need to finish.
@@masonry201 -- The engineer's callout is very similar to what you described. I am using 8" block and as you described the engineer did call for 24" bearing with the addition of #3 stirrups 8" on center for the first 4' then 16" on center throughout and 40" tall. The plans call for two #5 bars top and bottom. I'm just not sure how to fit all that in the bond block, or if it would have to be cast all as one? I definitely understand you not being able to put together a video right now. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for your videos! You take the time to explain every detail and this is invaluable to understand and improve technique, as well as efficiency. A hug from Argentina!
I recommend a 10" narrow heeled London when just starting out. However, they're not always available. Sometimes students are issued 11" narrow heeled Londons.
Can u continue on woth the rows with regular blocks or u have to keep putting in the same pattern alike blocks im getting ready to do a 32×72 house on 2 course of block wall stem wall
Thanks for the question! I'm not quite sure what you mean though. If building a long wall, or a rectangle foundation, build the corners first, then you'd lay the rest of the blocks to a stringline. This project isn't something that would be regularly built in the field. It's a great project for students to learn about masonry terms, tools, and techniques.
Great question! Really, they're very rarely built on a job. In this case, it introduces a bunch of terms to students in a visual way. Plumb, level, straight, how to read a tape measure, etc., and it also is something a student can build in a short amount of time and see something they've accomplished.
The quality of block from alot of places here have gone down hill in the past few years. I used to cross level for plumb, but now forced to plumb the face. Level across can be 1/4" (or more) out of plumb on the face
Thanks for the comment! I've noticed around here the quality isn't what it used to be either. We had a student competition last week, and the students were having issues with the 8" blocks not being the same in width and height, only about 1/8"" difference, but enough to make them mad!
Thanks for the comment! I realize the comment could be taken negatively, but my goal for teaching masonry to beginners is exactly that; as if I'm teaching kindergartners masonry. The projects get more complex, of course, and I don't explain every nuance. 3 of my videos have actually become required viewing for Notre Dame architecture students. As neat as that is, that's not my goal. My goal is to teach "kindergartner masonry".
@masonry2018 that's good though you have to assume they know nothing there's a young kid that works with me and sometimes I have trouble teaching him cus I assume he knows things that I think are common sense but he doesn't know anything that he hasn't been taught
@@richardstetson8221 Nowadays, there are many things that I see and hear that surprise me. Things that I had assumed were common sense. I'd love to give you examples, but I'd probably get in trouble!
@masonry2018 the other thing is when I explain something to him he says yea yea whether he understands or not do you get that with some students cus I'm figuring it's just something that younger people do these days I never did that so I don't get it I tell him not to do that cus what if I'm telling him something important
![How to Lay Brick [For Students]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k7sNi3F2UK4/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Lay Brick [For Students]](/img/tr.png)
![Building an 8" Block Corner Lead [For Students]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KKIPJLw26Z0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Building a Brick Pier [For Students]](/img/n.gif)
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Watching a seasoned mason, laying a brick looks like one fluid motion. I was always frustrated when I tried to replicate it. But seeing how you break that one fluid motion into a dozen micro steps enabled me to have a go at it! I am just finishing an outdoor kitchen including a wood fired brick oven and all thanks to you! I’m nowhere near a professional and my bricks don’t exactly go down in one nice motion, but the walls do get done! I wish I could send you a pic… I’m quite pleased with the outcome. Thank you! Joe
Thanks so much for the comment! I know exactly what you mean. When I see, let's say, a video tutorial on how to get something on my computer to work, and the presenter assumes I know some basic things, I get frustrated pretty quick!
I'm glad you're able to do your own masonry work! I'm sure it looks great! Thanks again.
These are the best instructive videos I've seen on block work! leaves nothing to the imagination and leaves no holes. Thank you for taking the time to put this out to the public. After watching your videos, I was able to lay the first two courses of block alone on a 50'X80" building and they are plumb, strait, level and on bond. It would be great if you could show how to build a masonry lintel for a large opening. I have three 16' openings to deal with. Thanks again, Grateful Kindergartener!
Thanks for the comment! As for a 16' opening, the longest available concrete lintels I've seen were 12', which are okay for 10' openings. If you'd like to make a concrete lintel for a 16' span, I'd first ask an engineer. If you're using 8" block, and would like to make one yourself, something like a double bond beam, one on top of another) with 2 pieces of #4 rebar in each bond beam, with 24" of bearing on each side, may do the trick, but don't quote me! But again, anything over a 10' span, I'd contact an engineer. They should have software where they can put in the measurements and different parameters (block size, rebar size, grout strength, bearing load, etc.).
@@masonry201 Thank you for the response. I do have engineered plans for the building, but I'm not sure how to go about building the lintel. I wasn't able to include the photo of the plan.
@@stuwil7329 If constructing your own masonry lintel, you would need to sort of build a temporary wood framed wall in the opening you're crossing over, the width of the block you're using. The top plate (2x8 if using 8" block) is what you would lay the block "dry" on, no bed joint, across the opening. Using "bond beam" block, shaped like the letter "U" with a flat bottom when viewed from the side. Probably bearing 24" on each side of the opening. This would then get filled with grout and horizontal rebar.
In your particular case, the bond beam may need to be doubled up, as in one on top of another. In this case, you'd still use bond beam block for the first course, laying your rebar in the bond beam with some globs of mortar to space them out, then use "knock out" block for the second course, then filling everything solid with grout.
This is something that is commonly done over smaller openings, like door openings. Most of the time a piece of angle iron will bridge the span to hold the block up while the grout cures, then the angle iron is removed.
I can make a video of this, but it wouldn't be for a long while. The school year is starting and there's a few other videos I need to finish.
@@masonry201 -- The engineer's callout is very similar to what you described. I am using 8" block and as you described the engineer did call for 24" bearing with the addition of #3 stirrups 8" on center for the first 4' then 16" on center throughout and 40" tall. The plans call for two #5 bars top and bottom. I'm just not sure how to fit all that in the bond block, or if it would have to be cast all as one? I definitely understand you not being able to put together a video right now. Thanks again!
Another informative and clearly explained video. You're probably the best instructor I've watched.
@@steveb.2874 Thanks for the comment!
Thank you very much for your videos! You take the time to explain every detail and this is invaluable to understand and improve technique, as well as efficiency. A hug from Argentina!
Thanks for the comment!
You are a very good instructor. Speaking in a language easy to understand for beginners and diyers.
Thanks for the comment! I mainly teach beginners, so your comment is good to hear! Thanks again!
You did a great job. I am building my first wall. You were a great help Btw, I am 64 years old
@@musquodoboitharbour Thanks for the comment and good luck on the wall!
@@masonry201 I will send you a picture when done. You are a great teacher
What trowel size and pattern do you recommend to your students for block work? Thanks!
I recommend a 10" narrow heeled London when just starting out. However, they're not always available. Sometimes students are issued 11" narrow heeled Londons.
Can u continue on woth the rows with regular blocks or u have to keep putting in the same pattern alike blocks im getting ready to do a 32×72 house on 2 course of block wall stem wall
Thanks for the question! I'm not quite sure what you mean though. If building a long wall, or a rectangle foundation, build the corners first, then you'd lay the rest of the blocks to a stringline. This project isn't something that would be regularly built in the field. It's a great project for students to learn about masonry terms, tools, and techniques.
What is a rack back block lead for?
Great question! Really, they're very rarely built on a job. In this case, it introduces a bunch of terms to students in a visual way. Plumb, level, straight, how to read a tape measure, etc., and it also is something a student can build in a short amount of time and see something they've accomplished.
The quality of block from alot of places here have gone down hill in the past few years. I used to cross level for plumb, but now forced to plumb the face. Level across can be 1/4" (or more) out of plumb on the face
Thanks for the comment! I've noticed around here the quality isn't what it used to be either. We had a student competition last week, and the students were having issues with the 8" blocks not being the same in width and height, only about 1/8"" difference, but enough to make them mad!
man that music is bad , is this what you play to the students learning at the shop
@@theNZmatt no way! The music they get to listen to is even worse!
@@masonry201 hahaha
Gonna have to call osha for safety.
1 point off for no safety glasses
Many points off for showing up to work late and leaving early!
@@masonry201 couldn’t be me
Pants salesman
One would think your talking to kindergarten kids.😢
Thanks for the comment! I realize the comment could be taken negatively, but my goal for teaching masonry to beginners is exactly that; as if I'm teaching kindergartners masonry.
The projects get more complex, of course, and I don't explain every nuance. 3 of my videos have actually become required viewing for Notre Dame architecture students. As neat as that is, that's not my goal. My goal is to teach "kindergartner masonry".
@masonry2018 that's good though you have to assume they know nothing there's a young kid that works with me and sometimes I have trouble teaching him cus I assume he knows things that I think are common sense but he doesn't know anything that he hasn't been taught
@@richardstetson8221 Nowadays, there are many things that I see and hear that surprise me. Things that I had assumed were common sense. I'd love to give you examples, but I'd probably get in trouble!
@masonry2018 the other thing is when I explain something to him he says yea yea whether he understands or not do you get that with some students cus I'm figuring it's just something that younger people do these days I never did that so I don't get it I tell him not to do that cus what if I'm telling him something important