RV Water Damage Repair
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- After 4 months on the road, we discovered water damage in our RV. RV water damage is quite common and we had actually repaired this already repaired this leak during our RV remodel before starting our full-time RV journey.
To find the water leak and fix the water damage, we had to remove to front of the RV (again), dry everything out, replace a few wall panels and then reseal the RV. RV water damage repair can seem daunting, but it's actually easy to fix and doesn't really cost much. The only thing you'll need a lot of is time if you're planning to fix an rv water leak and fix the damage on your own.
If you have any question about how we fixed the water damage on our RV, please leave us a comment below.
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We're the Gray's and welcome to the Gray Adventure! Our family of four set our on our new full-time RV living adventure in February of 2018. We're exploring the US, learning about RV life and making friends along the way.
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I've rehabbed over 300 trailers. primary source for leaks in a travel trailer are the clearance lights, windows, and the front and rear seams, as well as all external screws that go into the body, especially the ones that hold any corner trim pieces or moldings on. Guarantee when you remove the screws, especially under slide trim, half or more will be rusted out from water wicking in. The sticky goo under the trim won't stop a leak. Slide outs are also a main water problem because they don't seal well. The Friday afternoon crackheads that assemble these at the factory don't bother to dip any of the screws in silicone prior to installation which I would advise you to do, as well as sealing all roof seams with eternabond tape. Otherwise you'll be doing this again
RVs, campers, the worst shit I've lived in because of repair and maintenance. Not weatherproof whatsoever. Temp sucks because walls are thin af. Most of it probably is manufactured with terrible design, and the slide out is just an obvious retarded idea.
@@MrsMelissaRich 👎 for no value added to the conversation at all.
@noneya biz
Thanks for the advice. My wife and I just bought an old trailer with some needed wood rot repairs to be done in front just like the video shows along with roof needing revealed. Let the fun begin.
@@mikeroland9751 Well, it did make me laugh. Haha!
@@GoliathFlores Then value added. I stand corrected. A laugh is worth every word.
Some srious advice to those reading the comments. Instead of priming the outside of the panels that you replace..use E poxy fiberglass resin not polyester fiberglass resin as that allows the gradual migration of water. Epoxy resin is 100% waterproof. Ater that when installing the vapor barrier (a really good idea) use a contractors houebuilding caulk called "black death" down and across each wood strip. Rub the platic into that caulk and its an amazing and permanent fix.. Also ig you have bad wood like this fellow there are some good sealers...or just use the epoxy resin. Last thing..fill the old screw holes with wood and carpenters glue to get a good bite for the screw on reassembly..
Thanks for sharing! Always love it when someone who known a lot more than me chimes in with advice.
Larry Wood thanks for advice I have damage in the exact same place and always suspected roof seems and seal and reseal which I think is the main source but after watching this it must be a combination of things.
The Gray Adventures thanks for sharing your experience, helps me see where to start checking for issues and repair
Some of the best advice I've seen for wood trailers
Good on you Larry. Lots to learn.
Unbreakable tenacity is the key for owning an RV and maintaining it
@ 9:45 you said, "I want to add a coat of primer on the outside panels for an extra layer of protection". I literally scream at the screen when I see other refurb vid's who button up a repair w/o treating the wood. GREAT JOB!!!!! You are an excellent craftsmen!!!
FYI - I've removed a lot of decals on one of the Class A's we owned and found that letting the decals soak in WD40 was the best remover ever invented. Good job.
Thank you, it's my first time repairing RV and this vid is amazing thank you Big Guy
@Michael Dunlap Thanks for the tip!
new product crazy seal look it up on UA-cam and say testimonials has a 50-year warranty on it
BB Just last week I noticed that my RV 4 years old had water damage over four places on the the RV underbelly. It has traveled 200 miles during this time on the highway and has serviced as a bunkie at our cottage. What gives. So far all inspectors from the insurance company can't figure it out. No roof no window no door water infiltration. Those companies that produce these trailer don't care and after watching you work on your trailer they are laughing at you while they enjoy the profits. Fortunately I can afford the misfortune. My dealer said inform your insurance agent. I thank you for your effort in being positive in a situation that I don''t think I can as a near 80 year old can.
Take care
Take it to a repair place that has a seal tech rv leak detector it's about $150 but it will show your issue for sure ! There's videos on here as well so you can see how it works.
I am only 60 but feel the same way.
I had a similar issue with mine. I wound up making all of the repairs, and then removed all of the horizontal and vertical trim from the camper. On the horizontal surfaces (roof transition to behind the top trim and gutter), I used 6'' Eternabond tape, and rolled the top edge. The Eternabond tape extends behind the trim/gutter for a watertight seal. When I attached the trim, I still caulked the top with ProFlex RV. On the vertical sections, I used a produced called SealTite Corner Seal to weld the corner panels together. The SealTite is an elastomeric and water tight tape that creates a permanent barrier from water. It fits behind the vertical trim. The vertical trim also got all new Butyl tape, and caulking. I used GeoCel WaterShield. It's basically triple layers of protections from water penetration.
The same thing has happened to me. I can smell a musty mold smell. The wall behind my bed is warped and my closet beside the bed smells damp too. Im praying the floor is not rotted out. This video has really helped me. Thank you.
Sounds like you've got some investigative work to do.
I worked at an RV repair shop for a few years long ago.We had brand new RV's that leaked and had water damage(rot). It could be prevented with wider corner moulding and more care in sealing all the joints.We were kept busy repairing rot.
Thank you so much for showing this process. I have extensive water damage in the same area of my Jayco, and while a different model and brand, the process is exactly the same. I wasn't sure how to go about replacing the wood panels in side behind our faux wallpaper, nor how to access the outside behind the aluminum panels. But watching you remove the stripping on the sides, remove the screws and take down the panels so you can see the insulation behind it gives me confidence that I can pull of this repair easily, and do it well. A repair like this would cost THOUSANDS here where I live AND I'd be lucky if they actually got me an appointment within the next 6 months. After all that there's no telling whether they'd actually do a quality repair job I can trust.
So, thank you, very much.
My 30 ft Nomad fifth wheel had a layer of plastic protecting beyond the aluminum. Our leak came from the roof. I'm glad I don't really have to worry about that too. I have a 2002 and in 2020, still no wall leaks. I'm glad you added the plastic, I can tell you it really helps. Good luck!
Don't forget those two clearance lights as both are near your closets. I had issues before with the rubber gaskets cracking and thus on and off leaking. So be sure and inspect those gaskets on all the clearance lights. I run a bead of clear sealant along the top and down about an inch on both sides of the lights so any water will drain down both sides of the lights.
Great tip!
I'd bet money on him being right those lights leak all the time from small cracks you can't even see
I would agree - I had more leaks with the marker lights than anything else. In fact, I had water come in between the lens and base but mostly it came in between the outside wall and the base. I used a marine based adhesive/caulk (Sikaflex 291) that glued the base to the outside wall. I had previously used a silicon-based caulk and that was worthless in this application. Now, as I drive down the road and the camper moves/flexes, water cannot get in.
GREEN BOARD FRAMING WOULD HELP . 😊
Yes, but greenboard is soooo heavy
The tarp was good ideal but when you reattach the siding your going to be punching a bunch of holes in it so hope it works but might not help . Last year my brother bought a trailer that had water damage and people be warned , if you can see 1 foot of damage its 5 times more when you open it up so always keep that in mind . Im looking to buy a fixer upper and now know what to look for
Thanks for this video! I have some rotted wood in the front of my camper in one small area. I will be attempting this same fix soon and I like the idea of the plastic tarp for an additional moisture barrier. Great job.
Good luck. After this repair, we didn't have any additional leaks.
Check your light seals and seal the wood 👍🏽 I go thru and put great stuff In small areas too as an extra measure and flexible weatherproof sealant.
Also on the wood that was wet if it happens again add some wood hardener on it after it's all dried out :)
Plastic will stop moisture from inside getting out. A housewrap like Tyvex breaths out while not allowing moisture from outside to penetrate inside. Just a thought...
I would seal all wood panels that I made to repair the trailer so the wood dose not absorb water. And use foam insulation that will stay dry I would use spray foam and a water barrier fabric. Looks like you fixed it
I ALWAYS go above what's needed to prevent water damage too. Especially if I was repairing it already lol
Ok. You and that awesome woman who rebuilds her entire trailer convinced me. I am selling the aluminum major lemon I bought and buying a fiberglass trailer. Good on you folks for your perseverance but I am tired just watching tiny bits of these videos. Ye gads. So much work!
You won't be saying that once you start dealing with fiberglass delamination believe you me my friend I'm thinking of going back to aluminum
@@glennbeadshaw727 Really? Can you tell me more? Seriously.I am new to all of this. My understanding was fiberglass campers were sturdier, had way less leaks and kept their value longer. I have heard almost all aluminum trailers were very poorly built and as they move and jiggle everything loosens up and even new trailers, esp. those with slides get water damage. I am hearing this mostly from youtube. And all the Boler fans.
My trailer went in today for an inspection to see if it is salvagable. If I can avoid black mold I might go ahead with it. If I can seal the roof, bottom, windows, lights and corners and there isn't mold already inside to make me sick..
In for a dollar...
Any advice you have greatly appreciated.
@@glennbeadshaw727 Can you explain what fibreglass delamination means? I do remember my ex husband mixing fibreglass in the garage with all doors to the house wide open and my being seriously unimpressed.
If I had fibreglass problems I would have to hire professionals and make sure they have good safety standards and practices for themselves.
@@livableincome fiberglass delamination occurs in travel trailers because of their type of construction where in they meld a layer of fiberglass filon sheet to the substrate which is normally lauan plywood or even just Hardie board and over the years due to heat and moisture they separate and the fiberglass becomes bubbled... resulting in an extremely costly repair or even the end-of-life of your travel trailer.. but however if you have a trailer like a Boler you will be much better off because the trailer has no lamination it is simply a fiberglass shell
@@glennbeadshaw727 Thanks Glenn, that is helpful. Looks like I am tenting it for a while. Just got the results from inspection of my new to me aluminum trailer. Rotten all over. 20,000 to fix it and it isn't anywhere near worth it. Selling it at a huge loss. Practically giving it away. Might even give it away. Four months income down the drain. I was such an idiot.
Great video. It was really neat to see Robin Williams being serious for a change. I just kept waiting for him to say " Goooooood mooooooorrrrrrning VIETNAM!"
Not even close
Really appreciate you videoing the repair. Good to know how these travel trailer are constructed and where water possibly can entire.
The work is pretty easy, but it just takes a lot of time. If you have two people working at the same time, it could go a lot faster.
Felt paper would have been better.
Most travel trailers are slapped together, as fast as possible , the quality does not reflect in the price we pay 😳
They ALL leak 🤷🏻♂️. Thanks
Having a more serious version of the same issue in the same front style of the camper im in. This video at the very least showed me how these are constructed and helped me get ideas rolling to fix it.
This is an amazingly layman’s terms video to follow. Just 2 days ago I picked up the camper of my dreams: a 2000 Nomad. Rookie mistake; I didn’t look at the roof before purchasing. It was dark when I looked at it so…
At home, when I did look , a big 12x3 inch hole on top!
It’s right in the front exactly where yours is. Mine is a front kitchen tho. I tarped it as good as I could and will work on getting the cabinets down as it’s Dec here in Michigan so the outside will wait until spring. Thank you again for a very thorough video.
This is awesome information. I’m a single mom who wants to fix up the rv that I live in but I can’t afford these $5k-10k quotes that the rv guys are giving me.
I like your logic and ingenuity. I have lived in a couple of RV's for the last 18 years and I have had my share of wood rot and repairs. Dicor is my friend and Silicone is my enemy. I don't use standard screws. I use roofing screws with the rubber washers and use Dicor over the top of that. I don't care if I have the beauty plastic cover over the rails. They only seam to hold water in. At the bottom of my slide outs I run Gorilla Tape or Eternabond along the very bottom edge lengthwise (let the tape overhang about a inch) to act as a drip rail Otherwise the water will travel across the bottom of the floor. It's a simple hack. I would never have corrugated siding again. It is hard to maintain. leaks and even has pitting due to electrolysis. I insist on fiberglass smooth siding. Inspections are critical every year on the roof.
love the video. you can tell the water damage from the the top left where the metal is screwed into the wood. I had to use self leveling adhesive to cover of the screw holes than put on the rubber seal to keep the water from getting in
I have the same problem on mine and thought about a breatheable vapor barrier such as Tyvec brand used on homes might work too. Also, I’m thinking about installing a thin solid piece of aluminum metal then installing the siding over that & screws similar to metal roofing with rubber gaskets. Fiberglass insulation is a sponge so I was considering layering thin flexible closed cell foam board within the framing & sealing the edges with closed cell non-expandable door & window foam. If you have continuous insulation & interior air circulation condensation shouldn’t be an issue. Don’t put a plastic vapor barrier on the inside with fiberglass insulation because it will condensate to the outside causing rot & mold in the wood & fiberglass
ya, you're right. he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.
@@surveyguyor8958I too saw that fatally affected area...
You don't know, til ya know!!!
We dealt with Serpula Lacryman's type...evacuation level situation.
Epic.
Yea that stuff will take over.
Great stuff,no small effort for sure kudos !! RVs are simply land BOATs at the very heart = BREAK OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND !!!!Be prepared to ALWAYS spend /fix and or repair them!! We in the industry refer to them as Fun 5, fast dive !! 5 yrs of joy and then....im sure you get it . Good work and all the best .
I think this is exactly what i need to d on my van, found a little soft wood area in a corner.. thank you for doing this video.
Hate that for ya!! Good thing you caught it before it got real bad! We just went Fulltime in our 5th wheel and I’m hoping and praying we don’t have water issues in our future.
My recommendation would be to keep an eye on things on a regular basis. It can happen at any time, but we've also run into some people who have been on the road for years and have never had any issues at all.
Just FYI the entry place for the leak is usually where you see the highest spot of wetness. At least on the right inside of the camper there was wetness well above the Area you were suspecting.
Here’s an idea for future. Would corrugated plastic be a good idea, light weight, waterproof, and some insulation value.
We've used corrugated polypropylene ("for sale" signage) aka Coroplast for so many clever uses.
It's trial & error but worth the results.
For extreme winter in MN too, one of the best performing materials of all.
Even recycling election signage. Acetone (used safely) removes the print, if needed.
You did a nice job fixing it up. Since you added a vapor barrier, I'm wondering why you didn't just remove the couple extra panels and run it all the way up and under the roof. Could have assured any small leaks up high would not sink in again. You had that all off, should have done the extra 2 feet.
Eternabond tape is your best option on any joint seal, especially corners. Worth the cost of a roll.
What about the black mold you left to screw the new boards together. This is close to where you sleep. And I would recommend not letting your littles ones not breath that in.
Hi, good video.
There is a water blocking tape (approx 80mm wide) that you could apply directly to the cladding before refitting the j-rail. It contours to the cladding to give a total water proofing. Also apply sealant to each screw to fully seal the area. :)
How did your 2nd repair hold up?
Awsome job thankyou for the video. I'm going through the same dam thing as we speak what a job man.
Saving to refer to later, we’re just getting started!
I would still keep an eye on the repair. I would be concerned about that area sweating with the vapor barrier not allowing moisture to get back out.
the moisture should be between the barrier and panel. not inside the barrier.
Think of the trailer like a house. The vapour barrier should always be on the warm or inside of the house. They never vapour barrier the outside of the wall. I really hope you don’t have more issues with this.
@@Truckerdude36 have you ever seen a house get plywood on it and then a couple days later before the siding the house has a layer around it with words on it. That's the vapor barrier.
@@loganhaynes2278 - I have built in different climates and you want the vapor barrier to be on the side of the wall that’s warmest the longest since that’s the direction that moisture comes from. Not everyone followed this advice from the manufacturer and it’s easier to wrap the outside of a building so that’s generally where you see the vapor barrier or house wrap. Not a huge deal if it can breathe through the vapor barrier. Modern buildings are sealed up so tight that air exchangers are often required for fresh air now. If the windows are fogging up on the inside then that’s where the moisture is, if they fog up on the outside then you really have the AC cranking.
From an engineering standpoint these RV are built in a way that anywhere they can fail they will fail.
Exactly my thoughts. Bought an especially bad one. Classic suckering. Am not going near this sort of camper again. No use fixing.
Yes by design
@@livableincome what year and model did you buy?
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit Hi, this is a stream I haven't commented in for a while and I don't see what I said. Sorry. I've bought two campers- both had water damage. Will just say what they are but I am now missing context. One was a 1977 Coachman. Bought it and then discovered an RV inspection place wrote it off saying it would cost in excess of $20,000 CAN to fix it. I basically gave it away and lost quite a bit of money. However the buyers loved it and said there are different kinds of mold and this one is dry rot which is acceptable if you are camping locally and not going far. It was a lovely 19 ft retro camper.
The second one is a 1994 Kodiak truck camper. Several leaks. But I have now discovered the water drains right down into the truck bed and although there might be some residual water and some staining on a couple of walls, it won't be too bad. I pulled out the fluffy kind of insulation which was wet and replaced it. The solid foam insulation lets the water run over and down. I use a dehumidifier in there regularly to be extra sure. Did lots of repairs. Most esp full recaulking. Very expensive and they missed some spots but I fixed those myself. We had a great time camping last summer and I love it. This next year I will focus on cosmetic improvement of the interior. Won't completely renovate as I had originally planned. It is an old lady and we can accept her as such. Just the really ugly stuff to be replaced. We will just enjoy the camper until it is done. Won't resell.
Wow, this makes me want to sell my 6 year old trailer! The only water leak I ever had was a mickey mouse pex pipe connection at the toilet.
I actually just sprayed some Flex Seal yesterday under my condo kitchen sink until I redo my kitchen. It sealed up all the little drips.
The vapor barrier belongs on the inside if it is not breathable like a tyvek material. The plastic will Be problems for you.
I think the plastic is perfect. Wouldn't a vapor barrier will let moisture onto the backside of the metal trapping it there? The inside of a trailer should have enough air movement that water vapor doesn't settle and collect.
@@disillusioned070 You will get condensation between the vapor barrier and eventually rust/corrosion on the metal outer skin.
he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.
Sometimes Water can get in where the ladder screws on the back of the unit that's what I found on mine and where did the ladder if you climb on the other you see the screws is sort of loose the water can get from there it's really hard to find the problem so something you can check out
Driving in rain creates an extreme 'wind-driven' rain scenario, promoting water intrusion. Glad you got a handle on it. I use the more expensive marine sealants, as they're engineered for such applications.
Great tip.
Searched water damage on a travel trailer and your video came up but I'm only a few minutes in and can't stop thinking that you look like a young Robin Williams. Have you heard that a lot? Anywho, back to what I really came here for. We have a 2009 travel trailer and it has an abundance of water damage so we are researching how to remodel the entire TT.
You're definitely not the first one to mention it.
I know this is a 2018 video but here are a couple of suggestions for others: If
you have rotted structure pcs, replace them with pressure-treated wood rather than the factory non-treated wood. Also, you might consider the white sheets of material they use in restaurants for backsplash and walls around the sinks for a barrier next time, these come in 4 x 8 sheets and are more likely to resist leaking vs the plastic vapor barrier. Both of these are available a the big box home improvement stores. Just my unsolicited and unprofessional suggestions. Thanks for the video.
Hi Stephen do u know what the plastic sheets are called? 5hanks! Also, what do we use to adhere the barrier to the trailer???
@@rena5446 FRB or Fiber Reinforced Boards 4 x 8 sheets. There is also a specific adhesive for FRB. Both are sold at Home Depot.
THANK YOU FOR SHOWING DETAILS ON YOUR REPAIR. What kind of wood is that for the framing?
I was surprised to see that the trailer wasn't build with a vaper barrier to begin with!
Really good video. Thank you. I don't have the medal siding on my camper like you have, it's the slick siding. I'm new at this camping stuff but I bought a camper that I need to fix the sides like you did; replace some wood, insulation, and inside panel. Not a lot but just a little.
Same dude. I got a camper given to me that has water issues up front but I think there isn’t much to it if we have the patience because from what I was told the problem has not been seriously looked into.
Thanks for the video, I think it will be very helpful. Our trailer was never used when we bought it, but it had a little water damage in the same area. I didn’t know it when we bought it. After watching this video I think where it makes the angle change on the front is and the aluminum sheet overlay is the most likely spot for my leak.
Hope you can find the leak.
Great video. We have the extra same issue. Maybe I'll just swing by and drop the trailer off for you to fix since you've got it down to a science. Thanks. Haha.
I was going through your video great job. Hey I do punch-out work an anytime I find water damage we always applied killez to all wood. I really like the vapor barrier i would have did the whole front also. Great job.
@The Gray Adventure I had a similar problem with my Wanderer by Thor in 2016. I've just discovered the same problem. This time I will be removing the entire wood structure that supported the window and will not put the window back in. I'm actually replacing the corregated aluminum with flat sheeting. I'm over it.
We had a leak in our Jayco after 12 years. We fixed it and sold it. Got a new one. Not gonna bother chasing future leaks on a 12 yr old camper.
Your rough time illuminated my world!
Congratulations on a successful Project.
Thx a bunch! This helped me I have to do similar job but in the rear and while I’m in there I will be doing electrical work.
You seem to have happy healthy kids... That is impressive.
not for long if he doesn't replace that moldy wood he just sealed back into his RV trailer
I also had a problem with the back wall (I will be doing repairs. Thanks for the video, good job! Like!
Once you have water damage the only thing to do is replace all the damaged wood. Water damage can be avoided by checking all your seams annually and caulking any seams that need it. Check your roof annually and reseal as needed.
Very true, but this was water damage after we tore apart the whole front of the trailer to fix water damage just 6 months earlier. Those small gaps in the seals can be hard to spot.
Good Job. Thanks for the update later to let us know how it is working. Good insights in the thread, too.
It's been 18 months since we did the work and have had no issues since.
You should of wrapped your plastic over laping under the side wall as well. You do that on houses as well. It swals things better. Good luck travel safe.
Good luck on your adventure hope every thing goes well for you and your family.
the clearance lights are leaking
How is it holding up now ? Thanks for sharing your video we have a leak in our caravan in the same area but we have a window in the middle of that wall so that is where our leak is coming from ;;; we think ! Anyway we know it’s going to be a big job , luckily we have a large shed where we can pull it down and work on it , your video will help us navigate so thanks once again 🌸🌸🌸
One mistake many make is thinking butyl tape is the answer. Nope. Must put non leveling dicor to seal both sides of the corner trim. Another common mistake is using caulk or silicone. Neither will do the job over the long haul. Must be dicor and must run your finger along to ensure it fillets the trim to the siding.
Great video! What size was the board you used to as a replace for the hole? I have a very similar leak. Also how difficult is putting the vinyl siding back on after interior work is finished?
Call a commercial roofing company locally and see if they have tremco alphagaurd bio. It's a 30 year warranted two part epoxy coating that probably the best roof on the market, it bonds to anything, and is tough as nails. You must be a contractor to buy it, but there are almost always leftovers after job as the reps love to over sell.. coat your roof, tape off seams and coat them as well..
This guy kinda looks like Robin Williams!
i think you did a good job fixing this, but i think you will finr that the plastic you used will sweat and condensate over time from heat against the outer cover. i thought it was very cool to see you and your family doing this together. great video
What a sweet family! And sweet RV!!
So you only replaced the panels and not the frame boards? That rott will continue to grow and become toxic. You need to replace all boards that are rotten and black.
We need your help with our Magnivan!
Well done. Thanks for sharing!!!
What supplies????
My camper has leaks on all corners. We are in the middle of winter and it has been a wet year..... What should we do in the meantime? We live full time in our rv
I recently saw a product from dicor that is a tape to cover the gap where the metals butt, side/top. Years ago, vintage campers, folded the top over the side, which certainly was time consuming, but shed the water completely and the j-rail was on the side, before they started and used CAP MOLDING and did not lap the roof. It’s really a disaster waiting to happen, lol. I had a building built to cover my camper, so it is only exposed to sun/rain/weather, when we camp. Hoping mine never leaks, lol. What year is your camper?
You should replace the panel barriers too
Any place where there could be water running in high am I trailer? I replaced it with treated nontoxic treated lumber that way even the water gets in it can’t right away and just dissipate and then vapor barrier vapor barrier. They didn’t use it originally because it cost money but you should put it back on. You should put some ice and water shield or Tyvek.
Thank you for all the information in this video, I have to do the exact same thing in my, wish me luck...
Hope it turned out ok.
what about the wood that is outside of the paneling? isnt the water damage risky for mold? i am currently renovating a rv and thought i needed to replace all that wood.
now a couple of years, and i'm wondering if you have dryrot from leaving that damaged wood. I did not see you treat that wood with anything to stop the dryrot from growing. you already had old and dryrot spores working when you opened it up.
Ah, the Serpula Lacrymans.
A right noble adversary!
People have no idea.
Good job! Camper repairs are always a pain in the ass.
Great job. Thanks for the lesson.
Got a leak in the same spot. It’s actually ballooning the sheet metal on the outside when I travel. Gonna have to do the same exact repair. Trailer is too nice not too!
It takes time, but the repair is pretty cheap. Good luck.
Best video I've seen on water damage repair! How did the repairs hold up this time?
he sealed in that dryrot. he had dryrot spores and mold growing when he opened it, did not replace the damaged wood, and did not spray anything to tackle the dryrot that I saw before sealing it all in. 3 years later and Im sure that wood is all crumbly now.
Smart idea using vapor barrier. Hope for best. "Grey Adventures" nice, we added to our Coleman
Thanks. We should have added the vapor barrier the first time around. Honestly, I don't k ow why they don't have them when they come out of the factory. Water damage is the number one RV killer and it's pretty easy to solve the issue when building these things.
I believe they don’t use vapor barriers in TT’s bc of the risk of mold. The reason is that campers endure dramatic changes in temperature between seasons leading to condensation, and vapor barriers trap moisture, and increase humidity. Our houses have more of a constant temperature between seasons, and therefore vapor barriers work well, and mold isn’t usually an issue.
Ive always thought those rvs with wavy external panels could not possibly get a tight enough seal against those nonwavy straight trim strips despite a massive amount of sealing goop thats applied between the gaps. and towing in the rain just drives the water INTO any minute gap...
I know right!
I just dug into it yesterday. I was flummoxed.
Wtaf concept?!
The tack-y-er 'sealant' was almost like spackle!
The prior owner also figured on 3"+ wide silicone caulking, < 1/2" thick spread on like frosting a cake would help!
@@genossinwaabooz4373 yuck
I just bought a 2012 Layton nomad. My first camper ever and come to find out one of the corners has water damage. the guy lies straight To my face but it was my own fault. I’m just worried once I take that trim piece off it’s not going to go back together the right way.
Hello love ur videos I live in Florida south where can I find places the sale parts or anything for the rv I'm redoing a whole rv that has complete water damage thx for ur help
bro why did you cut away from the vinyl pulling?! I loved it
Sorry you had to deal with this twice, it’s looking like we are in a similar boat. We resealed one corner but are still having water intrusion so it seems like it’s time to take the whole front end apart to inspect and repair as needed. I see you used the seal tight tape in your original video. Did you use it here also? And what type of caulking did you use and how did you apply it-did you “pre-fill” the aluminum channel and then install it in place?
Took the same approach as the first time, but left out the tape this time. It didn't seem to have made any difference. So far things are holding up better this time around without the tape.
Adding the plastic sheeting, will this not create condensation ?
We bought a project.turning into total rehab from frame up.rotten from floor up.saving skins and windows,door and trailer.the rest was rotten.will never do another one.lord help me.
Hold those aluminum panels up to a super bright light and check for pin holes from road debris...? I have a 27' Jayco with similar but minor water damage up front. 1st New Year's project for me yay :/
Good idea, but I'm not sure how much water could actually make it through a pin hole like that.
Your rear reflectors is where your leaking from I bet. Looks like there’s no sealant and you seem to ignore that area completely yet would explain wiy your getting water in on each side of the bed
We thought that as well, but the water damage didn't go up that high.
This time I bought a RV with a wrap around fiberglass cap
Quad solar seal, quad solar seal, 50 to 20 way better than what you can buy at the camper store
My dad rebuilt a 1979 el Camino in a koa in Arizona they never said he couldn’t ,,,LOL
Haa yess my dad pulled the same shit. He passed along his vast knowledge of not giving a F-k
I like the Minnesota hat!
Hope someone can answer my question. After removing the corner trim from both sides. Does the bottom piece come off first to access the next piece of siding. Aluminum on bottom. And is is it with screws or staples?
Why can't you put house wrap after replacing the boards?