Thank you for the tip. I did a deck for a friend, using 2X8, what I did, I locked the table-saw at 7.5, and passed all of them through the machine, I helped me a lot and everything went smooth.
Great job. Built my deck on the house 37 years ago. Two levels. Time to update and replace. Nothing lasts forever but very pleased with my first. Time to refresh my mind and lumber. Thank you. Down to earth !!
Was sitting outside trying to figure out how you professionals are able to laminate such perfect beams. I was stressing out as I was imagining how many problems it was going to cause when I start putting on the deck boards. Did a quick search and in just a few minutes, you've saved my project. Headed out to find a planer. Thank you!!!
Damn... thanks for the tip. My next tool purchase will be one of those power planers... I didn't even know those existed until just now.. and you are 100% correct, building a deck can be so frustrating at times that you just want to quit.. take it easy and thanks for the tips!!
@@JAYG79. right, I had pressure treated wood delivered from Menards for my deck and they were varying widths.. made things difficult for ledger and joists, but specifically one of the 14ft 2x10 was just horrible.. smaller in width than the other, and curved at one end.. but it's not easy to exchange a 14ft board, so I just had to deal with it.
@@jeff_9074 That's why I rented a U-Haul, so I could pick out my own lumber. I was nervous about what the warehouse workers would load for my delivery. U-Haul cost about the same as delivery. (I only live 2.5 miles from my local Menards.)
It’s nice to watch a video of a real carpenter that isn’t trying to cover all the bases so no keyboard warrior will blast them because they didn’t use every tool a certain way or wear every safety device known to man. The way you showed your work is real life how we do it... especially the planner lol. Nice video man! Very entertaining!
Awesome video. Doesn't matter to me that it's a little scattered, because it was still very clear and to the point. I can always rely on you guys having great tips!. Thank you!
Flush up the top edges before nailing, let the bottoms run wild. Guess nobody is thinking. (Not a dig) just saying, thinking out of box may increase productivity. Not trying to offend, non of us know it all.
I'm fixing an old covered porch that had a layer of plywood, tapered boards, and then a layer of particle board with carpet glued to it. It has been a nightmare, each time I complete a task I have 5 new issues to fix 🥴 You just gave me a whole bunch of ideas in this scattered video, thank you!
Just started framing my deck (never built one before). I've been screwing an L70Z on top at the end to rest it on the ledger board while I connect everything. Super simple, and it's coming out perfectly flush at the ledger board. The layout board is going to come in super handy. I'm just a few joists in, and can already tell the middle of my 10 ft span is all over the place.
Thank you for this video. It will really help me when I replace my deck. I downloaded my local deck code online and I am going to follow it. But the tips that your videos show will save me so much time and frustration!
Great tips, especially tacking the joists up and then installing the hanger. That one should be a no-brainer. Perhaps that's why I didn't think of it myself :) Thanks for the excellent video!
I build decks full time. We did one recently that had to be super flat for paver installation on top of the joists. We ended up ripping all joists to 9". Tedious but great end result.
Thank you for being the most honest contractor I've seen in a long time. You were honest about all your mistakes in an effort to educate your viewers and maintain your business integrity. I'd love to work with you and hire you as my contractor.
Great job man! I know your crazy busy and these vids take time and effort, just want to say keep up the good work! I enjoy the sense of humor and hard work!!
Pressure treated lumber is treated in a pressure chamber at high pressures. The materials used to treat them are forced into the material. It’s not painted on that’s why they are so much heavier.
Pressure treating of lumber is different now that the carcinogens are outlawed .it is almost impossible to get dry pressure treated lumber anymore .unless you buy premium pressure treated and the is such a thing .the new process of pressure treatment is they float it in a pool of latex treatment and when you get it it is three times the weight and shrinkage over the first 90 days is substantial .
I have been adding the hangers after the joists for years for the reason you stated. It is a bit of a pain when I build them 12" OC getting a decent swing on the connector nails but worth it to have the tops level.
Thank you for this information. When I build something I always try to make it perfect. Well if you build with wood, it is not perfect. When laying out the floor joists, do not do it if you are not putting on the decking right away. The sun turns them into pretzels pretty quick.
Last year I watched a video from Fine Homebuilding where they recommend tacking the joists before putting hangers on. It saves a lot of frustration. They also recommend putting the tallest joist in the middle and shortest on the outside so the rain would drain off easier. Great Video, definitely smashing the like button 👍
In the process of building my new deck now and lumber sizes being off has been an issue! Thank you for putting this video out and for justifying the purchase of another tool (power planer)!
Butted joints over the posts is the way to properly transfer the load to the posts. When you stagger, you let your fasteners carry the load that would go to the post. What is wrong there is there’s no mounting bracket in between the post and beam
@@eddiegutierrez2739 If you can go to 2:40 and pause it... Certainly you want your butt joint to land on a post, but I would not land both butt joints on the same post, there are enough posts close together to stagger the beams so that when one joins on a post the one beside it flys thru to join on another post, adding to the stability of both.
Canadian lumber seems to be more consistent....not perfect but rarely do I come across that level of ridiculous. I also run all my joists wild with a temporary rim joist, put on the decking except for the last row, and then chalk my last line across the joists according to where the last row will now fit (rather than original measurements). Cut the joists and reattach the rim joist. Always looks perfectly finished and compensates for variations in the decking. Thanks for another good video.
@Perkins Builder Brothers If you nail two boards together to form one (like it is done at 2:35), should they always join on a vertical support or can you just nail them together wherever they join. I would sound more logical if you do it on a vertical support, but then you end up with many joins on a place where in many cases a support is placed for the roof....
Hello Perkins Bros. yet another awesome video i consider you guys my teachers because im learning so much there are soooooooo many pro tips in this video AWESOME! THANK YOU!
New wood is wet and it shrinks when it drys . I would hope that that wood is equally dry before plaining or after your install it will shrink and cause different heights. I assume you know this and I am over thinking it
Thank you! For these tips I do have a small deck repair coming up and the "grainbo" trick os something I never woulda thought of. Your videos are pretty sweet keep it up ☝
To some extent he's not, if the posts were leveled before the joists added then the top plane of the joists will be out of level, they could also crown up in the middle and just be feathered on the ends. If using the planer like he is you need to check more than just the ends where joists aren't flush. The way I do it is flushing up the top plane of the joists and shining or notching the section of the joists that bares weight, that way all the pieces are straight and level on the top without planing the whole joist. This also means that the factory pressure treatment stays intact on the top edge so preservative doesn't need to be applied.
@@murphythemenace3307 Width not thickness, the board is about 1 1/2 inches thick and about 11 1/2 wide in this case. You and Perkins went to the same school.
0:50 what I see here is a failure of ATD in the need for speed. When I'm building decks I ignore the bottom edges and insure the joists are flush on the top negating the need for the power planer. I also pay attention to crown and twists in the joists and use them to my advantage. 5:02 I NEVER attach a deck to the structure. Never rely on the structure for support of the deck. Also if for whatever reason the deck fails it does not take the structure with it. I've had to retrofit three decks so far that had ledger boards attached to structure that started to fail pulling the house apart.
Is that really a girder though ? Or is a girder located below the joist . that’s more like a header by definition. A girder would allow you to not have to hang those outside joists.
Question, I noticed you had a double or triple joist sort of in the middle of the deck layout, was that so all your deck boards would be the same length? So you will not have many joints in your deck?
I have gotten treated lumber from and built with it in 8 states , had to size the lumber on hundreds of jobs. Once in a blue moon it's all the same dimension but it's instinctive to to size, rip and plane.....it's not a bad day unless the boards have twist and 1/2 cups and they have to come back to pick up and replace. Must be gravy for you Canadians not to have to size your treated lumber
I am no where near a professional like you guys are, but i have built a couple of decks, and a few other projects using pressure treated lumber, but i have never seen such irregularities in lumber dimensions. Where I live (east coast U.S), the lumber we get is uniform in width and thickness.
Thanks brother... usually don’t miter on the treated wood. Have found that it usually shrinks and warps so bad as it dries that the fit doesn’t look that good in the long run.
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Yes, it can move and twist if put up wet. ( We let dry 30- 60 days before installing) We use PT or synthetic fascia here because of termites. All our lap joints and corners are mitered. I let it dry out and paint it before installing never had a problem but it does take time to let it dry out. Our decks here are all poured concrete with marble install on top. It's great to see how others build in different climates and areas of the country. Great channel....
👍.. we have several. The DEWALT has blades you can re-sharpen. We also have a Bosch with replaceable carbide blades. The DEWALT cuts deeper, but we have used the heck out of them both
Thank you for the tip. I did a deck for a friend, using 2X8, what I did, I locked the table-saw at 7.5, and passed all of them through the machine, I helped me a lot and everything went smooth.
Scattered tips like this is my best way to take information. Problems don't come up on que in order, they are scattered! Lol, great vid
Thanks.., much appreciated
Great job. Built my deck on the house 37 years ago. Two levels. Time to update and replace. Nothing lasts forever but very pleased with my first. Time to refresh my mind and lumber. Thank you. Down to earth !!
Was sitting outside trying to figure out how you professionals are able to laminate such perfect beams. I was stressing out as I was imagining how many problems it was going to cause when I start putting on the deck boards. Did a quick search and in just a few minutes, you've saved my project. Headed out to find a planer. Thank you!!!
Currently working on fixing any older deck. Your tips saved tons of time and frustration. Thanks for taking your time to share with us all.
You Perkins brothers are gonna get the Nobel Prize for good, pragmatic solutions. Thanks!!
Working on fixing an older deck. The power planer is like some kind of gift from God! I never knew they even existed! Thank you for posting this!
Damn... thanks for the tip. My next tool purchase will be one of those power planers... I didn't even know those existed until just now.. and you are 100% correct, building a deck can be so frustrating at times that you just want to quit.. take it easy and thanks for the tips!!
1/2" width difference? Time to change lumber suppliers.
Look thru 20 treated boards and you’ll have at least 5 different widths no matter what supplier you go thru
@@alexclaassen664 100%. Pt is the worst for consistency.
@@JAYG79. right, I had pressure treated wood delivered from Menards for my deck and they were varying widths.. made things difficult for ledger and joists, but specifically one of the 14ft 2x10 was just horrible.. smaller in width than the other, and curved at one end.. but it's not easy to exchange a 14ft board, so I just had to deal with it.
@@jeff_9074 That's why I rented a U-Haul, so I could pick out my own lumber. I was nervous about what the warehouse workers would load for my delivery. U-Haul cost about the same as delivery. (I only live 2.5 miles from my local Menards.)
Great "last second idea". Not "too scattered" for me. Much appreciated, and very helpful!
You have no idea how much I needed to see this. Thank you.
Building a 12 x 12 deck in the backyard, and I found this video extremely helpful. Definitely will be referencing this video during the build.
I agree....the 9-3/16" 2X10 is the obvious culprit.
And layout board is an awesome tip.
Making sure all ¢enters are on.
So many tips, this channel is awesome!
Thank you for mentioning about not installing hangers first! I so would have done that.
It’s nice to watch a video of a real carpenter that isn’t trying to cover all the bases so no keyboard warrior will blast them because they didn’t use every tool a certain way or wear every safety device known to man.
The way you showed your work is real life how we do it... especially the planner lol. Nice video man! Very entertaining!
Some great tips and uneven lumber is driving me crazy these days especially for the price haha. Thanks for the tips and keep up the great work.
Absolutely great video 👍.
Awesome video. Doesn't matter to me that it's a little scattered, because it was still very clear and to the point. I can always rely on you guys having great tips!. Thank you!
On the board width... When I built my deck , I got in a habit of double checking even/flush boards before nailing together.
Great video .. thanks
Flush up the top edges before nailing, let the bottoms run wild. Guess nobody is thinking. (Not a dig) just saying, thinking out of box may increase productivity. Not trying to offend, non of us know it all.
He's a builder not a deck builder. You measure all your 2x8 1st then place them in a pile by thickness and place them accordingly.
He wanted the boards to lay directly on the legs
He specifically showed that he did that for all girders that did not rest on posts. 4:04 He can't do that for boards that rest on a flat surface.
You'd place shims under.
@@eloc2020 yup, small blocks count as shims too
I'm fixing an old covered porch that had a layer of plywood, tapered boards, and then a layer of particle board with carpet glued to it. It has been a nightmare, each time I complete a task I have 5 new issues to fix 🥴
You just gave me a whole bunch of ideas in this scattered video, thank you!
Thanks for the video! Great idea’s glad you wanted to share.
Just started framing my deck (never built one before). I've been screwing an L70Z on top at the end to rest it on the ledger board while I connect everything. Super simple, and it's coming out perfectly flush at the ledger board. The layout board is going to come in super handy. I'm just a few joists in, and can already tell the middle of my 10 ft span is all over the place.
Had no idea you guys had done a deck tips video back in the day.. I was scratching my head on my 30x30 deck reno/update... thanks for the video tips!
Thank you for this video. It will really help me when I replace my deck. I downloaded my local deck code online and I am going to follow it. But the tips that your videos show will save me so much time and frustration!
Great tips, especially tacking the joists up and then installing the hanger. That one should be a no-brainer. Perhaps that's why I didn't think of it myself :) Thanks for the excellent video!
Good tips. Nice trick with the rebar. Leverage is key!
This video was awesome. Full of great tips and fun to watch.
Thanks so much 👍👍👍
"nothing is easy as you think it is in the construction industry" Bloody true story that
Yep
I build decks full time. We did one recently that had to be super flat for paver installation on top of the joists. We ended up ripping all joists to 9". Tedious but great end result.
Another fantastic method for the desired results
Can also set 5-6 at a time on saw horses and plane them before installing. Just find the thinnest board and plane to that thickness.
That’s what I do. I track saw all the joists
THANKS!!!! I thought it was me installing incorrectly. I was going to use a belt sander but power planner is way more fun. Thanks for the tip!!
Thank you for being the most honest contractor I've seen in a long time. You were honest about all your mistakes in an effort to educate your viewers and maintain your business integrity. I'd love to work with you and hire you as my contractor.
Good info, man some of the lumber that comes to our jobs is ridiculous. Nothing you don’t already know 😊
Great advise on joist hanger. thanks! Also investing in an electric planar!
Invaluable tips. Thanks!
Great job man! I know your crazy busy and these vids take time and effort, just want to say keep up the good work! I enjoy the sense of humor and hard work!!
I like that layout board. Simple concepts to make certain things run smoother and faster
All useful tips. These would help make me confident enough to build a nice deck.
love the videos. always a good day when i get a notification that Perkins uploaded a new video.
This video has massively helped my day! Thankyou 👍
Excellent advice. The Grain bow tips are awesome. Thanks.
After planing down the 2x lumber, do you need to re-treat those shaved ends to preserve the life of the treated wood?
Pressure treated lumber is treated in a pressure chamber at high pressures. The materials used to treat them are forced into the material. It’s not painted on that’s why they are so much heavier.
Correct - preservedwood.org/portals/0/documents/PT_FieldTreating.pdf
Cutek Extreme and/or G tape to protect the cut ends and planed surfaces.
Pressure treating of lumber is different now that the carcinogens are outlawed .it is almost impossible to get dry pressure treated lumber anymore .unless you buy premium pressure treated and the is such a thing .the new process of pressure treatment is they float it in a pool of latex treatment and when you get it it is three times the weight and shrinkage over the first 90 days is substantial .
I have been adding the hangers after the joists for years for the reason you stated. It is a bit of a pain when I build them 12" OC getting a decent swing on the connector nails but worth it to have the tops level.
Thank you for this information. When I build something I always try to make it perfect. Well if you build with wood, it is not perfect. When laying out the floor joists, do not do it if you are not putting on the decking right away. The sun turns them into pretzels pretty quick.
Last year I watched a video from Fine Homebuilding where they recommend tacking the joists before putting hangers on. It saves a lot of frustration. They also recommend putting the tallest joist in the middle and shortest on the outside so the rain would drain off easier. Great Video, definitely smashing the like button 👍
In the process of building my new deck now and lumber sizes being off has been an issue! Thank you for putting this video out and for justifying the purchase of another tool (power planer)!
haha, same here. I guess I will get the same yellow one
At 3:06 I'm a little surprised that the joint isn't staggered where those longer boards meet the shorter ones!
Right. We always stagger joints 2 to 4 feet on double bands
Was thinking the same, I always stagger my joints. Would never leave such a weak point. Don't think it would pass an inspection here.
Butted joints over the posts is the way to properly transfer the load to the posts. When you stagger, you let your fasteners carry the load that would go to the post. What is wrong there is there’s no mounting bracket in between the post and beam
@@eddiegutierrez2739 If you can go to 2:40 and pause it... Certainly you want your butt joint to land on a post, but I would not land both butt joints on the same post, there are enough posts close together to stagger the beams so that when one joins on a post the one beside it flys thru to join on another post, adding to the stability of both.
Thank you for sharing solutions to common issues very helpful
cool video hit both my issues just as I got on my first joist in my DIY deck.
Canadian lumber seems to be more consistent....not perfect but rarely do I come across that level of ridiculous.
I also run all my joists wild with a temporary rim joist, put on the decking except for the last row, and then chalk my last line across the joists according to where the last row will now fit (rather than original measurements). Cut the joists and reattach the rim joist. Always looks perfectly finished and compensates for variations in the decking.
Thanks for another good video.
@Perkins Builder Brothers If you nail two boards together to form one (like it is done at 2:35), should they always join on a vertical support or can you just nail them together wherever they join. I would sound more logical if you do it on a vertical support, but then you end up with many joins on a place where in many cases a support is placed for the roof....
"Grainbow"... Love the term! I'll never have to Google it again to remember how to lay the top boards on picnic tables I build! Thanks!
"Grainbow"., that's what my friends call me.
You helped me today. I'm building a deck! Good timing!
1:02 My head: "Man he's really flying with that planer"
1:09 Lol
Same.
Love every single one of your videos.
Don't hurt that expensive hammer!!!!! Kidding aside...I love your channel.
Hello Perkins Bros. yet another awesome video i consider you guys my teachers because im learning so much there are soooooooo many pro tips in this video AWESOME! THANK YOU!
Awesome info .. keep the videos coming
New wood is wet and it shrinks when it drys . I would hope that that wood is equally dry before plaining or after your install it will shrink and cause different heights. I assume you know this and I am over thinking it
Thank you for the great tips and taking the time doing the videos.
Much appreciated.
Very helpful. I’m doing a solo job rebuilding my old deck and lumber that looks like it came from a dr. Suess tree has me stressing. FOT copy that
Love your videos. I'm a hobby builder and absolutely love watching "tips & tricks" videos
Thanks for sharing! I need to get that planer for sure
This both helped me and gave me an excuse to buy a new tool. Thanks!
Thanks for everything I love the channel! Can’t wait to get back out there this season :)
Your videos are always helpful, thank you very much
Thank you! For these tips I do have a small deck repair coming up and the "grainbo" trick os something I never woulda thought of. Your videos are pretty sweet keep it up ☝
Even though you planed the difference- how are you going to maintain the level?
Kiln dried is much worth the investment. Likely to have less cupping bowing and twisting and is ready to seal upon install.
If the post are notched correctly the beams are level.. hes just getting rid of the difference in thickness
To some extent he's not, if the posts were leveled before the joists added then the top plane of the joists will be out of level, they could also crown up in the middle and just be feathered on the ends. If using the planer like he is you need to check more than just the ends where joists aren't flush. The way I do it is flushing up the top plane of the joists and shining or notching the section of the joists that bares weight, that way all the pieces are straight and level on the top without planing the whole joist. This also means that the factory pressure treatment stays intact on the top edge so preservative doesn't need to be applied.
@@murphythemenace3307 Width not thickness, the board is about 1 1/2 inches thick and about 11 1/2 wide in this case. You and Perkins went to the same school.
Just built a 12x48' and 12x26' on my house and this would have saved me so much aggravation. Great tips!!
Thank you so much for the planer tip, it saved us!
Looking good thanks guys
Thanks again for taking the time to make these terrific vids
Dude planer for the win thanks dude mine varied some exactly what I needed I was at a loss for what to do
Great video, just about to put all my joists in.
Good video bro good little tips for people who don’t run into this stuff all the time or DIY weekend warrior. Thanks man.
Just what i needed to help finish me deck...thnx mate...
Thank you. =) I'm sure it would've drove me nuts, especially as I'm going to be DIYing the thing. LOL
0:50 what I see here is a failure of ATD in the need for speed. When I'm building decks I ignore the bottom edges and insure the joists are flush on the top negating the need for the power planer. I also pay attention to crown and twists in the joists and use them to my advantage.
5:02 I NEVER attach a deck to the structure. Never rely on the structure for support of the deck. Also if for whatever reason the deck fails it does not take the structure with it.
I've had to retrofit three decks so far that had ledger boards attached to structure that started to fail pulling the house apart.
Good video and good tip. Thanks.
Good tips. Much appreciated.
Thanks!!!... Good tips and tricks.
Thanks for the tips! Gonna build me a deck this summer. Love your videos!
Excellent advice. Thanks
If you screw a small piece of 2x2 top the top end of your joist and set that “guide” on your ledger makes it perfectly flush and easy to hang 😀
Is that really a girder though ? Or is a girder located below the joist . that’s more like a header by definition. A girder would allow you to not have to hang those outside joists.
Thanks for the heads up. Keep em going.👍
Definitely gonna look into a planner now
i really wish i would have seen this before i started lol. great tips!
Problems more like nightmares, everyday. For sure we are not alone with there minor time eaters. Thanks nice video
Nice video Thanks for the tips .
Awesome video, great tips!
Question, I noticed you had a double or triple joist sort of in the middle of the deck layout, was that so all your deck boards would be the same length? So you will not have many joints in your deck?
Who do you get your lumber from? No mill up here in Canada would let those variations leave the mill.
I have gotten treated lumber from and built with it in 8 states , had to size the lumber on hundreds of jobs. Once in a blue moon it's all the same dimension but it's instinctive to to size, rip and plane.....it's not a bad day unless the boards have twist and 1/2 cups and they have to come back to pick up and replace. Must be gravy for you Canadians not to have to size your treated lumber
Thank you. We’re about to start a build on the biggest deck we’ve ever built lol
I am no where near a professional like you guys are, but i have built a couple of decks, and a few other projects using pressure treated lumber, but i have never seen such irregularities in lumber dimensions. Where I live (east coast U.S), the lumber we get is uniform in width and thickness.
Great work guy’s!
As a perfectionist it DRIVES ME NUTS to see lumber with such different dimensions
You guys don't 45 degree miter cut the outside skirt board on that girder? Makes a much cleaner corner. Great video as always!
Thanks brother... usually don’t miter on the treated wood. Have found that it usually shrinks and warps so bad as it dries that the fit doesn’t look that good in the long run.
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Yes, it can move and twist if put up wet. ( We let dry 30- 60 days before installing) We use PT or synthetic fascia here because of termites. All our lap joints and corners are mitered. I let it dry out and paint it before installing never had a problem but it does take time to let it dry out. Our decks here are all poured concrete with marble install on top. It's great to see how others build in different climates and areas of the country. Great channel....
Thanks....great useful information.
I'm going to buy a planner now.
👍.. we have several. The DEWALT has blades you can re-sharpen. We also have a Bosch with replaceable carbide blades. The DEWALT cuts deeper, but we have used the heck out of them both