Great video. I have watched my friend do this in his fiberglass business. You have the benefit of the cnc and cad equipment he did all that by long hand. Same result as you. Thanks for the vid
well I am... hoping to score a composites oven before end of the year... but as I'm 'in the states' I have to figure out how to change the power supply connector
Subscribed! Just a note: Instead of car body filler like used in the video, there is a spray-on filler which would provide a even coating to take care of the porosity of the foam while not requiring much (if any) re-sanding. Then you can just use fairing compound or "bondo" to fill the large gaps. Also note the spray-on filler does not shrink, so that's a bonus.
Thanks for the post, what’s that filler product? We have our own Pattern Coat Primer (which you’ll have seen used in this video) but I guess you’re talking about something much higher build than that? Always interested in new methods 😀
Great video, as usual. A good distraction from making CAD videos for my students. Thanks for showing the mistake in the video, it's really important for people to know that they happen to everyone.
Thanks Keith. Agreed on the mistakes, they do happen to everyone so it's not helpful to always cut them out. The bit you *never* see in our videos is LOT of vacuuming up, but there is that too ;)
I've been in the fiberglass industry for 30 yrs. Most of it as a pattern and mold maker. Before we had a five-axis CNC machine we would employ the same methods except we would obviously hand cut all of our profiles. Then we would make our own drag tools for whatever size radius we were implementing. So many things you can do when you have these skills. I've made one off car and motorcycle parts for people, I've put truck caps together that were broken in half, it's really good work and I miss it now that I'm a plant manager running production.
Thanks for the feedback Todd; great to hear about your experience of these methods in the industry. Maybe you should take a composites project on that you can work on from a home workshop, just to keep your hand in on the practical side! We do this all day and still go home and do our own projects; it never gets boring!
Being US pattern makers since 1958 it's interesting to watch. We also produce a lot of larger patterns and molds for composite products ( fiberglass), mainly architectural , columns , cornices, domes and facia panels. We use the similiar method to this on our larger shapes. On larger parts we do use a wooden strongback to build the parts on if too large for a surface table. We use water jet to cut out main framing materials as it's quicker and cheaper that routing. We also try not to have the framing come to the surface, the difference in material can make them show up in the finished pattern. We also try to keep all our framing running in one direction , it simplifies the assembly of larger parts and the slicing and dicing of the model if using cad. ( add 90 deg framing for strength as reqd) We also use wood/MDF/particle bd for framing but simple wood glue is much cheaper and simpler to use with nails or screws to hold while it sets. My patterns always have to be transported over the road to the customer so they have to have better structure to survive the trip. Great video nice to see pattern or plug making as I used to call it in the U.K. on YT. Cheers Warren , W.D.Pattern co The final surface skin is always the hardest decision. The filling the gaps with foam method we have used successfully but is crazy messy and on large parts requires a lot of hand work on big pieces like large dome sections 20' long and 6-8 ft wide. It also requires the frames on the surface to hold the shape and that leads to frame print thru on pattern or sometimes in the mold. We have used a layer of fiberglass cloth over top to minimize this. And FYI the large foam you are using is in the USA very expensive , $20-50 per board ft so is hard to be competitive with that cost of material. You finishing materials are the same type as we have here in the USA, our choice of sprayable material was reduced when Valspar stopped producing their line a couple of years ago ( Fourseal). Our go to now is Duratec line from Hawkeye Ind. Is there room for another supplier, probably. ( there are various automotive branded options too). Great video , good to see pattern or plug making as I called it in the Uk on YT. Cheers Warren WDPattern Co ( also on IG)
Thank you for your comment Warren, it’s great to hear your methods, experience and thoughts. PU foam is not quite in the $20-50/sqft territory in the U.K. but it’s not far off. The method and materials shown in this tutorial certainly aren’t the ‘budget’ option but they are at least a lot cheaper than an ‘all out’ CNC machined pattern. Anyway, thanks for your comments and look forward to your insights in the future 😀
This is how we made supermileage car chassis at university. In fact that sled upside down almost looks like one! Brought back some memories of hours of sanding!
Absolutely love the encouraging attitude and alternative lower end tools and approaches being mentioned. I can see myself possibly doing a project of this kind in the distant future.
Super nice. I made a very similar plug a few years back. I drew it up to scale on graph paper then measured the sectionals of it and transfered that to plywood. Then filled the voids with newspaper then topped up with 2 part expander foam. Finished off with filler then coated with epoxy primer.... It was a SUUUUUPER ambitious job for a first attempt but a success in the end. Got a plug a mold and a finished part.
Really like these composite videos you put up. I've done a lot of pattern building, and yes, an arctic expedition sled as well :) I didn't have access to prefab dense polyurethane foam blocks like you used, but had to pour A-B Urethane resin into the frame and sand it down. I'd like to recommend that if you go that way, after sanding the urethane down, wet a layer or two of fine fiberglass cloth over the whole pattern to seal the urethane and create a stable platform for bodyfiller and primer work. Polyester resin is fine. I've had the bodyfiller destabilize the urethane so that the surface was no longer true a few days later.
Thanks Hakon, appreciate the feedback and suggestions for people. Expanding foam is a possibility, for sure, but as you've found, the surface finish and internal texture does result in more work (but cost saving on the PU foam).
Is there anything you can’t do lol. Amazing work. F1 should be calling you. Thanks again for another great how to. You’re the reason why i buy from easy comp.
Haha, thanks. This series is a bit more traditional really so not quite F1 this time but maybe more like the composites that a lot of people still need to understand for their own projects. Glad you like the tutorials and thanks for being a customer!
@@easycompositestv Good to know. But the main reason was, I don't have spray booth and all the PP equipment. But the result is almost perfect, I'm quite surprised how it came out.
While you can't automatically generate a framework inside a design in Fusion, there _are_ however built-in tools and features that will allow you to arbitrarily trace a model's cross-section to a sketch, and from there you'd just have to add a few lines to close the bottom, add whatever weight-reducing cutouts you want, and extrude it to make one of the ribs.
Thanks for the feedback. We were aware of some of the 'slicer' type plugins but and maybe tools like this could have have got us to the end-point slightly quicker. To be honest, a lot of the CAD work was making the pieces interlock correctly and designing-in ways to use panels of flat sheet for any areas on the surface of the pattern that were indeed flat, this reduces the amount of foam/filler work a lot but this sort of detail is never going to be understood or provided by cross-section/skeleton plugins.
Thanks for the comment. We can ship certain products to Australia but not anything classed as 'dangerous goods', which - of course - does rule out a lot of our products. We do keep our Australian customers in mind and hope to find a better way to support you in the future.
I have made a complete car buck based on the Ferrari 166mm and used your products for the top coats as per your new video. They are fantastic products. I hope to do the fibreglass mouldings soon. Andrew.
Thanks Andrew, that's great to hear. Please get in touch through our website if you have any news or images to share of the project - we're looking for more projects to feature in our new Gallery section; we love to share projects and inspire others to have a go.
Slicer plugin for Fusion 360 can make the interlocking profiles. You can choose the spacing and amount of slices you want. It will save you a lot of time and work
Для ускорения процесса доводки поверхностей, я бы рекомендовал вначале задуть жидкой шпаклевкой из пистолета . Потом протянуть шпаклевкой поверхности . Это поможет адгезия шпаклевки основных плоскостей.
Lol, thanks. Well, we've learnt over the years that trying to go down what seems to be the simplest or most basic route ends up taking much longer in the long run so we go full-fat from the start and then it usually comes together the way we wanted.
Such a wonderful video, project, array of products and information. I look forward to your products being in the US at some future point. This makes me want to build a custom workshop sooner than later.
Perfect timing I’m about to make a mold for my front bumper and fenders and seeing you work something as large as this sled will be an excellent primer for my project can hardly wait. And I second the motion for a store in North America. 👍
Very interesting to watch. I'm learning new things. I was eager to see how you went about making such a large object for making your molds. Now that I've seen it, I can only qualify it as great workmanship.
@mrarkane: You mean you don't like those how-to vids where every sentence starts with "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and...", "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and...", "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and..."
Excellent description of the process. I intend to build a sidecar outfit and naturally will need to form a shape. So with some knowledge from this video will be able to plan out my design.. Thanks👍👍👍👏👏
Water Putty is my preferable alternate to body putty:: it’s water based (gypsum with vinyl), does not shrink when drying, is easily sandable, and cheeeep. SOOO CHEAP! takes surface paint flawlessly; resin is a breeze.
One thing i learned the hard way was not to make a hermetically sealed pattern, because workshop temperature changes resulted in 'greyhound ribbing' defined by the hard mdf profiles with softer pu foam between
Hi James, yes, that's a good 'heads up' for people. It's not really a consideration on a large pattern of this form because we're not dealing with a 'solid' shape (all faces sealed) but it would indeed be a consideration for and form that is a 'solid' shape.
I dont feel like im your target market but thank you for takeing the time you share your skills with everyone else in a friendly way, Looking tru the channel you should post a little more often :P
Thanks SnapPilot. We’re trying to post more often but compared to a lot of content on UA-cam the amount of time and resources needed to make a video like this are, for us at least, pretty significant.... weeks of work for a single video. That said, the remaking 3 videos in this series should be along pretty soon 😀
Foam and epoxy filler...so fun to work with and so satisfying to watch while others build fascinating things with them. :) Fiberglass is too irritable though. :/
I’m halfway through building a 1:100 model Titanic. (It’s 882.9in. long) I used the pink low density foam between the framing, BUT I used a hot wire to shave off the excess foam. This left dips, waves and concave cavities along the foam, which I’m having to fill with a combination of plaster, expanding foam, epoxy putty and sand. Very tedious. I really wish I had taken your approach of sanding off the excess instead. Looks amazing BTW.
@@easycompositestv please do that! I'm in Canada but I wouldn't ask for a store down here. Easy Composites in US would be enough and much appreciated, immediate success!
There use to be a slicer part of 123D that sectioned everything out of a solid form and had options for dowel holes to align pieces. It then output everything in a PDF or EPS file to send to the router programme.
Well, that sounds like a seriously handy function for this type of work. Since 123D was Autodesk, I wonder if anything like that made it over to 360. We've not found it, if it did!
3:39: Yes indeed! I really enjoy the precision of this build! inspiring! ^^ Very precise guidance as well! love it! I mean this, among other vids on YT, where you see the actual craftmanship applied (to great aplomp, in this case ^^), and guidance at the same time is just insanely educative!
Appreciated. To be honest, we've known some real 'old school masters' at pattern making over the years; craftsman who's hand building and hand finishing skills make your heart ache. Not too many of those guys around now!
Hi, yes changing the water between grades of abrasive means that you aren't transferring any of the more coarse grit onto the surface when using a finer grade. The risk of not doing so is that you reintroduce the deeper scratches as you are trying to remove them.
At our pattern shop they have blocks of foam that they stack up and screw together and then after they have a monolithic block larger than the finished project will be they just cut away until they have the shape finished perfectly
Hi Todd, yes, that's the standard way if you have a large CNC; you'll see plenty of videos we've done which show CNC routing of the pattern. This video was more about how you could make a large, accurate pattern if you *didn't* have a large CNC mill.
Its lovely and warm here in the 3rd world but i really do miss being able to make technical things. ..... a stick welder and rusty angle iron is as good as it gets here. they dont even know what gel coat is. :( Edit: actually, now that ive got to the end of the video ive remembered all the weeks of designing and making products only to have the great british public expect me to sell them for 10p. Ill stay out here in the warm then.
why I didn't see this video many months before, I do the mould by hand with any ideas that result in a lot of work, this would be very easy... excellent video... where is the next video of this mould? excellent, greetings from Chile
Oh man, this would be PERFECT for making my own car body!!! Dam....just print profiles like that! Puzzle them together! Make a mini version first! Fome blocks for filler! It's not exactly what I was looking for at the moment , but along the lines! I want to model a body that will be like a living thing. I think I may just mold it in small manageable pieces and join them together
Awesome video!! You wouldn't happen to have a link to information on how to make those section pieces in fusion 360 would you? I've been trying to find some but I must not be using the correct terminology. I'm coming up empty handed. Looking forward to the rest of the project and more content in general. I've learned a lot for you guys.
Another great video guys! How long did it take to get this far? 5 days? Love that its well linked back to the website(like the new look!) with the project materials and step by step - great resource. Looking forward to seeing the interview vid when its up.
Awesome video as always! It would be great if you could show in a future video how you're making these profile templates in Fusion 360. I also second what somebody else already suggested: Please open a branch in the USA!
Thanks. Yes, opening a USA operation is at the front of our minds at the moment but will need some planning and time. We may well do some videos on Fusion360; not sure they'd have a particularly broad appeal but certainly, for those actually following these processes, they could be useful. We'll keep it in mind.
This is how airplane masters were made as little as 20 years ago from 2-D drawings. The templates were typically aluminum and the lofts were made of plaster.
Absolutely and for small scale production runs or low budgetary projects, its still perfectly useable. Its very much the process used to construct boat hull moulds as well.
It's almost impossible to imagine any such coating that can be applied to vertical surfaces also managing to self level (it kind of goes against physics) but I guess it depends on what standard of finish you're looking to achieve. For a commercial standard finish on a contoured mould, a process pretty much along the lines of what we show in this video, is always necessary.
If you're using Fusion 360 and need a tool to help generate the profiles, you can use Slicer. You could also use Slicer with any STL or OBJ files (Note - It's no longer supported, but still works great). You can Download Slicer here - knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/downloads/caas/downloads/content/slicer-for-fusion-360.html If you're using Solidworks and need to create the profiles you can use the "Slicer" tool, which is pretty much an automated "New Plane" + "Intersections Curve" command - ua-cam.com/video/JQYGFflycvg/v-deo.html Slicer for Fusion will do a much better job of automating the process if you don't want to do the leg work and design the structure and interlocking shapes yourself.
When do you want a high gloss finish, and when do you make do with a rougher surface finish? What effect does it have on the end product? Is the mold single-use or can you make however many moldings you'd like? Will reuse degrade the surface finish?
Most often, it's just down to aesthetics; a smooth, shiny component looks like a well made and well finished component. Also, components will release much better from a smooth glossy mould whereas they will tend to 'grip' into a poorly finished one. Although this video is about making the pattern, when we make the mould in the next video that mould can be used to make hundreds of parts, there is really no damage or deterioration caused to the mould by each release.
It's funny the amount of people I have approach me looking for shortcuts where if they simply learnt how to do things, they'd spend less time than searching for the shortcut.
Agreed, a guide coat can be useful, yes. We do demonstrate using a guide coat in our other pattern making tutorial. In the case of this pattern the surface was really pretty good already and so we chose not to use one on this occasion.
I saw this as a demonstration of a method rather than the very best method for this particular part. Different people are going to have different approaches depending on the tools/equipment/skills/budget available. This was one method.
Hi Cesar, thanks, you can indeed. If people want to see this technique we showed it in our other pattern making tutorial (the one about making the airbox pattern by hand).
Bathtub. I would like to see a video on making insulated fiberglass custom bathtub. What particularly intrests me is what gel coat to use that will hold up to cleaners. Also im worried about hot water softening and deforming the tub. Thanks.
Hi Tom, interest project. Well, the mould we make in the next part of this series certainly looks like a bathtub!! There are some good gelcoats specially for sanitary ware, Scott Bader and Nord Composites both have some. TG of the resin system (and gel) would need some consideration but it’s certainly doable to have a system that wouldn’t be at risk of distortion from hot water.
I'm not in the market for your products but I watch your videos anyway--so interesting and well-presented; a pleasure to watch.
same\
That's absolutely fine by us. If you ever are in the market, or you know someone who is, then you know where we are :)
Adam E. It is fascinating to see how things are made.
Great video. I have watched my friend do this in his fiberglass business. You have the benefit of the cnc and cad equipment he did all that by long hand. Same result as you. Thanks for the vid
well I am... hoping to score a composites oven before end of the year... but as I'm 'in the states' I have to figure out how to change the power supply connector
I never realized how much love and labor went into this. Wonderful craftsmanship!
For now I will stick to building my projects out of OSB scraps.
Subscribed! Just a note: Instead of car body filler like used in the video, there is a spray-on filler which would provide a even coating to take care of the porosity of the foam while not requiring much (if any) re-sanding. Then you can just use fairing compound or "bondo" to fill the large gaps. Also note the spray-on filler does not shrink, so that's a bonus.
Thanks for the post, what’s that filler product? We have our own Pattern Coat Primer (which you’ll have seen used in this video) but I guess you’re talking about something much higher build than that? Always interested in new methods 😀
Great video, as usual. A good distraction from making CAD videos for my students.
Thanks for showing the mistake in the video, it's really important for people to know that they happen to everyone.
Thanks Keith. Agreed on the mistakes, they do happen to everyone so it's not helpful to always cut them out. The bit you *never* see in our videos is LOT of vacuuming up, but there is that too ;)
I've been in the fiberglass industry for 30 yrs. Most of it as a pattern and mold maker. Before we had a five-axis CNC machine we would employ the same methods except we would obviously hand cut all of our profiles. Then we would make our own drag tools for whatever size radius we were implementing. So many things you can do when you have these skills. I've made one off car and motorcycle parts for people, I've put truck caps together that were broken in half, it's really good work and I miss it now that I'm a plant manager running production.
Thanks for the feedback Todd; great to hear about your experience of these methods in the industry. Maybe you should take a composites project on that you can work on from a home workshop, just to keep your hand in on the practical side! We do this all day and still go home and do our own projects; it never gets boring!
Being US pattern makers since 1958 it's interesting to watch. We also produce a lot of larger patterns and molds for composite products ( fiberglass), mainly architectural , columns , cornices, domes and facia panels. We use the similiar method to this on our larger shapes. On larger parts we do use a wooden strongback to build the parts on if too large for a surface table. We use water jet to cut out main framing materials as it's quicker and cheaper that routing. We also try not to have the framing come to the surface, the difference in material can make them show up in the finished pattern. We also try to keep all our framing running in one direction , it simplifies the assembly of larger parts and the slicing and dicing of the model if using cad. ( add 90 deg framing for strength as reqd) We also use wood/MDF/particle bd for framing but simple wood glue is much cheaper and simpler to use with nails or screws to hold while it sets. My patterns always have to be transported over the road to the customer so they have to have better structure to survive the trip. Great video nice to see pattern or plug making as I used to call it in the U.K. on YT.
Cheers Warren , W.D.Pattern co
The final surface skin is always the hardest decision. The filling the gaps with foam method we have used successfully but is crazy messy and on large parts requires a lot of hand work on big pieces like large dome sections 20' long and 6-8 ft wide. It also requires the frames on the surface to hold the shape and that leads to frame print thru on pattern or sometimes in the mold. We have used a layer of fiberglass cloth over top to minimize this. And FYI the large foam you are using is in the USA very expensive , $20-50 per board ft so is hard to be competitive with that cost of material.
You finishing materials are the same type as we have here in the USA, our choice of sprayable material was reduced when Valspar stopped producing their line a couple of years ago ( Fourseal). Our go to now is Duratec line from Hawkeye Ind. Is there room for another supplier, probably. ( there are various automotive branded options too).
Great video , good to see pattern or plug making as I called it in the Uk on YT.
Cheers Warren WDPattern Co ( also on IG)
Thank you for your comment Warren, it’s great to hear your methods, experience and thoughts. PU foam is not quite in the $20-50/sqft territory in the U.K. but it’s not far off. The method and materials shown in this tutorial certainly aren’t the ‘budget’ option but they are at least a lot cheaper than an ‘all out’ CNC machined pattern. Anyway, thanks for your comments and look forward to your insights in the future 😀
Your videos just keep getting better and the scope of the projects are getting really advanced. So impressed.
Thank you, appreciated.
One of the best channels for molds and models. Curls for your work
This is how we made supermileage car chassis at university. In fact that sled upside down almost looks like one! Brought back some memories of hours of sanding!
Yes, we’ve been there ourselves, many times, finishing patterns ‘till we have no fingerprints!
Absolutely love the encouraging attitude and alternative lower end tools and approaches being mentioned. I can see myself possibly doing a project of this kind in the distant future.
That's great to hear Siana, if you go for it, let us know how you get on.
I needed this tutorial 6 years ago.
Mmmm, sorry about that.
Super nice. I made a very similar plug a few years back. I drew it up to scale on graph paper then measured the sectionals of it and transfered that to plywood. Then filled the voids with newspaper then topped up with 2 part expander foam. Finished off with filler then coated with epoxy primer.... It was a SUUUUUPER ambitious job for a first attempt but a success in the end. Got a plug a mold and a finished part.
Good skills 👍
Really like these composite videos you put up. I've done a lot of pattern building, and yes, an arctic expedition sled as well :) I didn't have access to prefab dense polyurethane foam blocks like you used, but had to pour A-B Urethane resin into the frame and sand it down. I'd like to recommend that if you go that way, after sanding the urethane down, wet a layer or two of fine fiberglass cloth over the whole pattern to seal the urethane and create a stable platform for bodyfiller and primer work. Polyester resin is fine. I've had the bodyfiller destabilize the urethane so that the surface was no longer true a few days later.
Thanks Hakon, appreciate the feedback and suggestions for people. Expanding foam is a possibility, for sure, but as you've found, the surface finish and internal texture does result in more work (but cost saving on the PU foam).
So thats how those concept model plane/car guys able to make a shinny cool looking model ! Thank you
Your videos rock because although you guys use the proper tools and techniques, you also mention how someone could do it in their garage. Rock on!
Thanks Tyler, we try to do that for sure 👍
I like how you always add information about diy on a budget👍
Thanks Hanes, we all have to start somewhere and certainly when we started out we really had to try to save where we could.
I'm into sailboats. These guys make me dream about bold plans 🙂
Your videos has helped out out student formula team in composite fabrication of Aerowings🙏🙏😊😊. These videos are just good to watch.
Thanks, that’s great to hear.
Is there anything you can’t do lol. Amazing work. F1 should be calling you. Thanks again for another great how to. You’re the reason why i buy from easy comp.
Haha, thanks. This series is a bit more traditional really so not quite F1 this time but maybe more like the composites that a lot of people still need to understand for their own projects. Glad you like the tutorials and thanks for being a customer!
This is relaxing to watch :). It's basically how I was repairing my car, but I used spray cans (one part).
Thanks Rick - One thing to watch with rattle can paints is that Ester based resins can attack them and cause them to pucker or peel off the substrate.
@@easycompositestv Good to know. But the main reason was, I don't have spray booth and all the PP equipment. But the result is almost perfect, I'm quite surprised how it came out.
While you can't automatically generate a framework inside a design in Fusion, there _are_ however built-in tools and features that will allow you to arbitrarily trace a model's cross-section to a sketch, and from there you'd just have to add a few lines to close the bottom, add whatever weight-reducing cutouts you want, and extrude it to make one of the ribs.
Thanks for the feedback. We were aware of some of the 'slicer' type plugins but and maybe tools like this could have have got us to the end-point slightly quicker. To be honest, a lot of the CAD work was making the pieces interlock correctly and designing-in ways to use panels of flat sheet for any areas on the surface of the pattern that were indeed flat, this reduces the amount of foam/filler work a lot but this sort of detail is never going to be understood or provided by cross-section/skeleton plugins.
I really wish you guys offered postage to Australia. Your content is second to none. Amazing work
Thanks for the comment. We can ship certain products to Australia but not anything classed as 'dangerous goods', which - of course - does rule out a lot of our products. We do keep our Australian customers in mind and hope to find a better way to support you in the future.
@@easycompositestv Well for what it's worth always share your videos with friends and followers from the UK and Europe 👍
I'm going to use this method for my next project now. Thanks for the inspiration and the education!
Keep this kind of interesting tutorials coming they are very insightful
I have made a complete car buck based on the Ferrari 166mm and used your products for the top coats as per your new video. They are fantastic products. I hope to do the fibreglass mouldings soon. Andrew.
Thanks Andrew, that's great to hear. Please get in touch through our website if you have any news or images to share of the project - we're looking for more projects to feature in our new Gallery section; we love to share projects and inspire others to have a go.
@@easycompositestv Thanks I will send those pics. on to you Andrew.
This workshop just looks awesome! So clean and beautiful :)
Yeah, really realistic... Eh?😊
They're Hell to work in.
Slicer plugin for Fusion 360 can make the interlocking profiles. You can choose the spacing and amount of slices you want. It will save you a lot of time and work
Great idea...you could then scale it, print them in real size and build paper or cardboard templates for the shapes...awesome.
Для ускорения процесса доводки поверхностей, я бы рекомендовал вначале задуть жидкой шпаклевкой из пистолета . Потом протянуть шпаклевкой поверхности . Это поможет адгезия шпаклевки основных плоскостей.
Great video and explanation. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to the next one
Thank you, next part is just around the corner.
I wish I had your patience! Great vid by the way once again!
Lol, thanks. Well, we've learnt over the years that trying to go down what seems to be the simplest or most basic route ends up taking much longer in the long run so we go full-fat from the start and then it usually comes together the way we wanted.
Such a wonderful video, project, array of products and information. I look forward to your products being in the US at some future point. This makes me want to build a custom workshop sooner than later.
We hope to be in the US fairly soon, so much support and interest from customers over there, we’ve got to make it happen 👍.
Perfect timing I’m about to make a mold for my front bumper and fenders and seeing you work something as large as this sled will be an excellent primer for my project can hardly wait. And I second the motion for a store in North America. 👍
Thanks Glen, yes, this should be a good project to follow. We’re on the USA thing!
Happy caterpillar face at 11:58 !
Thanks, this has been incredibly helpful for an idea for a GRP spray hood for our boat.
Thanks Julia, Paul does have a bit of a Caterpillar or Cheshire Cat grin about him!!
Very interesting to watch. I'm learning new things. I was eager to see how you went about making such a large object for making your molds. Now that I've seen it, I can only qualify it as great workmanship.
Thanks Henri, glad you enjoyed it.
How refreshing! Very well presented. No usual USA BS!
Thanks a lot, glad you enjoyed it.
@mrarkane: You mean you don't like those how-to vids where every sentence starts with "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and...", "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and...", "Now I'm *gonna go ahead* and..."
I have learnt a lot from these tutorials. Thanks a lot
Hi I really like the 3m safety gear during the primer. Great job. ❤
Very good Video. After viewing you understand how many work is into these parts.
There is tools that can make "molds" in cad, and that generates skeletons like that.. but not for fusion360.. its a solidworks thing rather.
There is for fusion 360, instead its a sub software? called 'slicer for fusion 360'
How it is called for Solidworks?
fusion 360 really does this better and more intuitively
Best video I've seen on this subject so far!
Thanks Chris, appreciated.
Thanks Charles, that’s praise indeed.
Excellent description of the process.
I intend to build a sidecar outfit and naturally will need to form a shape.
So with some knowledge from this video will be able to plan out my design..
Thanks👍👍👍👏👏
You’re welcome Simon, good luck with your project.
dude how nice to see you again!
:)
Thanks, it's always good to be back.
Wow this is pretty nice, can you guys show how to make a full carbon fiber monocoque for a car? That would be the ultimate thing!
We maybe will do that one day. We work with some good race teams who have CF monocoques; perhaps we could partner up with them for a full-on tutorial.
it's the same process as this one, i'm an industrial designer and did this with my college's FSAE team some years ago.
Hola:
como siempre los mejores tutoriales y videos,faciles de seguir y entender,los mejores materiales ...etc...etcñ
The Yellow Snow project would have been a better name hands down.
Water Putty is my preferable alternate to body putty:: it’s water based (gypsum with vinyl), does not shrink when drying, is easily sandable, and cheeeep. SOOO CHEAP! takes surface paint flawlessly; resin is a breeze.
Brand please?
Extremely well presented. Thanks for uploading this!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed!
Great job well done and many thanks to share such an experience👍👏
One thing i learned the hard way was not to make a hermetically sealed pattern, because workshop temperature changes resulted in 'greyhound ribbing' defined by the hard mdf profiles with softer pu foam between
Hi James, yes, that's a good 'heads up' for people. It's not really a consideration on a large pattern of this form because we're not dealing with a 'solid' shape (all faces sealed) but it would indeed be a consideration for and form that is a 'solid' shape.
Wow. This is so satisfying!
Autodesk slicer can take a solid model and slice it up into segments that can then be used to build the frame prior to foam installation.
I dont feel like im your target market but thank you for takeing the time you share your skills with everyone else in a friendly way, Looking tru the channel you should post a little more often :P
Thanks SnapPilot. We’re trying to post more often but compared to a lot of content on UA-cam the amount of time and resources needed to make a video like this are, for us at least, pretty significant.... weeks of work for a single video. That said, the remaking 3 videos in this series should be along pretty soon 😀
Foam and epoxy filler...so fun to work with and so satisfying to watch while others build fascinating things with them. :)
Fiberglass is too irritable though. :/
I’m halfway through building a 1:100 model Titanic. (It’s 882.9in. long)
I used the pink low density foam between the framing, BUT I used a hot wire to shave off the excess foam.
This left dips, waves and concave cavities along the foam, which I’m having to fill with a combination of plaster, expanding foam, epoxy putty and sand. Very tedious.
I really wish I had taken your approach of sanding off the excess instead.
Looks amazing BTW.
Yes, I can see how that would be a considerably more time consuming approach. It will also be quite a bit of plaster/filler so a lot more weight!
please open store in usa, we cant get the quality here.
We talk about this a lot at the moment; a USA presence is very much on our minds!
@@easycompositestv Definitely second USA market!! You guys would be huge here!
oh yes, please!
@@easycompositestv There's lots of people here with lots of spare time lately....It might not be as crazy of timing as you might think!
@@easycompositestv please do that! I'm in Canada but I wouldn't ask for a store down here. Easy Composites in US would be enough and much appreciated, immediate success!
Lots of work but the most impressive thing seen in this video was the pour from big container to little cup with no spill.
It’s all done in CG Rob 😉
A true master at work!!!
This is just amazing
Appreciate the kind feedback!
You might want to consider using a intermediate pad when sanding & wet sanding. Great video
The NW1 does not need it as it is a diminishing abrasive so done in one hit.
I would like to see a series about making a lost foam piece. Or using a salt or a sugar crystal to fill a dissoluble interior form.
We will do some soluble core videos at some point in the not-too-distance future.
There use to be a slicer part of 123D that sectioned everything out of a solid form and had options for dowel holes to align pieces. It then output everything in a PDF or EPS file to send to the router programme.
Well, that sounds like a seriously handy function for this type of work. Since 123D was Autodesk, I wonder if anything like that made it over to 360. We've not found it, if it did!
@@easycompositestv I dont believe it did make it and I havent found anything like it since.
Inspirador, ahora tengo una idea más precisa de cómo hacer un molde para un proyecto
Superbe la vidéo..merci a l'équipe 😉😊
Merci Jean Framcois;
c'est notre plaisir.
3:39: Yes indeed! I really enjoy the precision of this build! inspiring! ^^
Very precise guidance as well! love it!
I mean this, among other vids on YT, where you see the actual craftmanship applied (to great aplomp, in this case ^^), and guidance at the same time is just insanely educative!
Thanks for the kind words, great to hear our efforts are appreciated 😀
Best video, I learned for my body car fibreglass, also I can buy specific materials. Thanks
Excellent video!! 👌👏👏
plug mold pattern master. great channel.
Appreciated. To be honest, we've known some real 'old school masters' at pattern making over the years; craftsman who's hand building and hand finishing skills make your heart ache. Not too many of those guys around now!
I've been bulding a car project for a while now, I had no idea the importance of changing the water when you're wet sanding!
Hi, yes changing the water between grades of abrasive means that you aren't transferring any of the more coarse grit onto the surface when using a finer grade. The risk of not doing so is that you reintroduce the deeper scratches as you are trying to remove them.
Amazing job. Really cool stuff.
Thank you for all the great videos!
You're welcome, glad you're liking them :)
i have no plans to reproduce any of this, i just find it fascinating to watch :D
Thanks cool with us. Thanks for watching.
This is pretty cool
Brilliant process
Thanks Richard
чтобы быстро и достаточно надёжно склеить деревянную форму, такую как тут, можно взять монтажную пену
гораздо дешевле эпоксидки
At our pattern shop they have blocks of foam that they stack up and screw together and then after they have a monolithic block larger than the finished project will be they just cut away until they have the shape finished perfectly
Hi Todd, yes, that's the standard way if you have a large CNC; you'll see plenty of videos we've done which show CNC routing of the pattern. This video was more about how you could make a large, accurate pattern if you *didn't* have a large CNC mill.
@@easycompositestv understood, we have had a CNC for probably 15 years now but when I started we did all our patterns by hand just about like this
Very informative and I appreciate your candor!
Very well presented .
Many thanks Peter!
Its lovely and warm here in the 3rd world but i really do miss being able to make technical things.
..... a stick welder and rusty angle iron is as good as it gets here. they dont even know what gel coat is. :(
Edit: actually, now that ive got to the end of the video ive remembered all the weeks of designing and making products only to have the great british public expect me to sell them for 10p. Ill stay out here in the warm then.
When I did this sort of thing about one and a half decades ago, we would use thin wood slats to build the compound curves rather than foam infill.
That can work perfectly well too.
you make it "look" easy, great video!
why I didn't see this video many months before, I do the mould by hand with any ideas that result in a lot of work, this would be very easy... excellent video... where is the next video of this mould?
excellent, greetings from Chile
Hi J.P., the next video in the series will be online in around a week. It's already filmed, we just need to get it edited and voiced over.
Oh man, this would be PERFECT for making my own car body!!! Dam....just print profiles like that! Puzzle them together! Make a mini version first!
Fome blocks for filler!
It's not exactly what I was looking for at the moment , but along the lines!
I want to model a body that will be like a living thing.
I think I may just mold it in small manageable pieces and join them together
Great video as always.
Really like the skeleton method.
Thanks Miller 👍
Great, great, great video! Thank you!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching.
Awesome video!! You wouldn't happen to have a link to information on how to make those section pieces in fusion 360 would you? I've been trying to find some but I must not be using the correct terminology. I'm coming up empty handed. Looking forward to the rest of the project and more content in general. I've learned a lot for you guys.
As mentioned in the video, there is no method we are aware of to create them easily. In essence a drawing was created for each one.
Another great video guys! How long did it take to get this far? 5 days? Love that its well linked back to the website(like the new look!) with the project materials and step by step - great resource. Looking forward to seeing the interview vid when its up.
Thanks Phil; glad you liked it. Interview video should be there in a few mins :)
Awesome video as always! It would be great if you could show in a future video how you're making these profile templates in Fusion 360. I also second what somebody else already suggested: Please open a branch in the USA!
Thanks. Yes, opening a USA operation is at the front of our minds at the moment but will need some planning and time. We may well do some videos on Fusion360; not sure they'd have a particularly broad appeal but certainly, for those actually following these processes, they could be useful. We'll keep it in mind.
This is how airplane masters were made as little as 20 years ago from 2-D drawings. The templates were typically aluminum and the lofts were made of plaster.
Absolutely and for small scale production runs or low budgetary projects, its still perfectly useable. Its very much the process used to construct boat hull moulds as well.
Instead of all the painting and sanding, I use a 2 part epoxy, (casting epoxy or pouring epoxy) , 1 coat, It flows out perfectly.. Ready to wax.
It's almost impossible to imagine any such coating that can be applied to vertical surfaces also managing to self level (it kind of goes against physics) but I guess it depends on what standard of finish you're looking to achieve. For a commercial standard finish on a contoured mould, a process pretty much along the lines of what we show in this video, is always necessary.
you can use Fusion 360 Slicer to slice STL of the part in plywood
If you're using Fusion 360 and need a tool to help generate the profiles, you can use Slicer. You could also use Slicer with any STL or OBJ files (Note - It's no longer supported, but still works great). You can Download Slicer here - knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/downloads/caas/downloads/content/slicer-for-fusion-360.html
If you're using Solidworks and need to create the profiles you can use the "Slicer" tool, which is pretty much an automated "New Plane" + "Intersections Curve" command - ua-cam.com/video/JQYGFflycvg/v-deo.html
Slicer for Fusion will do a much better job of automating the process if you don't want to do the leg work and design the structure and interlocking shapes yourself.
When do you want a high gloss finish, and when do you make do with a rougher surface finish? What effect does it have on the end product? Is the mold single-use or can you make however many moldings you'd like? Will reuse degrade the surface finish?
Most often, it's just down to aesthetics; a smooth, shiny component looks like a well made and well finished component. Also, components will release much better from a smooth glossy mould whereas they will tend to 'grip' into a poorly finished one.
Although this video is about making the pattern, when we make the mould in the next video that mould can be used to make hundreds of parts, there is really no damage or deterioration caused to the mould by each release.
what a bloody good tutorial!
Haha, thanks!
It's funny the amount of people I have approach me looking for shortcuts where if they simply learnt how to do things, they'd spend less time than searching for the shortcut.
There’s definitely some truth in that!
The true path to new inventions
I think using a Guide coat would have helped you a-lot to find any high or low areas right away during the primer process.
Agreed, a guide coat can be useful, yes. We do demonstrate using a guide coat in our other pattern making tutorial. In the case of this pattern the surface was really pretty good already and so we chose not to use one on this occasion.
Maybe you can crreate cross sectiions by using boolean operatiions, if yourr software supports this.
Is it worth using ocean liner modelling method to made a bathtub?
I saw this as a demonstration of a method rather than the very best method for this particular part. Different people are going to have different approaches depending on the tools/equipment/skills/budget available. This was one method.
you can change the color of the paint in each layer , will help a lot in the sanding
Hi Cesar, thanks, you can indeed. If people want to see this technique we showed it in our other pattern making tutorial (the one about making the airbox pattern by hand).
DIRECTOR: how many chemical compounds you wanna use for this video?
THIS GUY: yes!
Bathtub. I would like to see a video on making insulated fiberglass custom bathtub. What particularly intrests me is what gel coat to use that will hold up to cleaners. Also im worried about hot water softening and deforming the tub. Thanks.
Hi Tom, interest project. Well, the mould we make in the next part of this series certainly looks like a bathtub!! There are some good gelcoats specially for sanitary ware, Scott Bader and Nord Composites both have some. TG of the resin system (and gel) would need some consideration but it’s certainly doable to have a system that wouldn’t be at risk of distortion from hot water.
great video!