Thanks for for the video, I just ordered one from Amazon to fill my 250 Tote. Knipex makes the best tools! Great tip. Also like the idea of the roofing felt for a wrap
I put the inlet to the IBC caged tank in the center of the cap which is way easier to access and replace if necessary. That allows for a complete fill and helps vent the air as it fills and you still have a tank without non-factory holes. Replacement caps are cheap compared to the tank itself. Those washer hoses are severely limited in flow as they are significantly smaller in inside diameter than a standard hose.
Simple overflow system I've used is a buy a sump pump hose kit, install on opposite side of intake drill hole with hole saw for connector towards top of barrel, and you have 25 feet of hose to direct away from foundation maybe in direction of a garden or plants. Also buying other connector fittings can be used to link barrels. I have run hose back to downspout in area's that were invenient for a long hose to be laying out.
Thanks for this demonstration. I was going to buy this, but this looks like too much work for me. Have to find some other way to collect my rainwater. :-)
@@engineerable Appreciate the quick reply. Did your rain tank happen to fill all the way up where the overflow went back into the diverter and down the downspout?
@@rickysandwich I installed a little higher than ideal because of where the gutter was already broken. So the tank fills up all the way, and would overflow if it wasn't for the cap. I leave the cap on part way so air can pass, but to tight for water to flow. So, the outlet of the rain diverter should be installed below the top level of the tank, and the hose connection on the tank should be a few inches lower than the rain diverter. The tank will fill up to the height of the rain diverter outlet.
If your tank is closed on top and can not overflow, then yes you can. Otherwise it will cause your tank to overflow. The entrance to the rain barrel must be lower than your rain diverter. The barrel will fill to the same height as the rain diverter outlet. Therefore, if you install the hole on top, your diverter must be higher, which will overfill the rain barrel.
Haven't yet had an issue with debris, but it makes sense that small crap would eventually accumulate. Large stuff will pass through the center. Maybe back flush it with a hose? I also have micro mesh gutter guards, and not much gets past those.
Excellent video. Others I watched will have overflowing barrels. I agree about instructions. Confusing but I think your right. Thanks
Thanks for for the video, I just ordered one from Amazon to fill my 250 Tote. Knipex makes the best tools! Great tip. Also like the idea of the roofing felt for a wrap
Your welcome. Good luck!
I put the inlet to the IBC caged tank in the center of the cap which is way easier to access and replace if necessary. That allows for a complete fill and helps vent the air as it fills and you still have a tank without non-factory holes. Replacement caps are cheap compared to the tank itself.
Those washer hoses are severely limited in flow as they are significantly smaller in inside diameter than a standard hose.
Simple overflow system I've used is a buy a sump pump hose kit, install on opposite side of intake drill hole with hole saw for connector towards top of barrel, and you have 25 feet of hose to direct away from foundation maybe in direction of a garden or plants. Also buying other connector fittings can be used to link barrels. I have run hose back to downspout in area's that were invenient for a long hose to be laying out.
Thanks for this demonstration. I was going to buy this, but this looks like too much work for me. Have to find some other way to collect my rainwater. :-)
Thanks for this video. I'm looking at that exact same rainwater diverter. How do you like it? Is it working well?
Works well! Filled up the 275 gallon rain tank within just a few rainfalls. That's from only about 1/6 of the total surface area of our roof.
@@engineerable Appreciate the quick reply. Did your rain tank happen to fill all the way up where the overflow went back into the diverter and down the downspout?
@@rickysandwich I installed a little higher than ideal because of where the gutter was already broken. So the tank fills up all the way, and would overflow if it wasn't for the cap. I leave the cap on part way so air can pass, but to tight for water to flow.
So, the outlet of the rain diverter should be installed below the top level of the tank, and the hose connection on the tank should be a few inches lower than the rain diverter. The tank will fill up to the height of the rain diverter outlet.
so... what were the results? I wish you could of stuck a hose in the gutter to watch the flow. 😮💨
Works great and fills up the IBC tote quickly
The top of the tank? No black covering required?
After the video, I covered the top and sides of the tank with black out material.
Can you make the hole in your rain barrel on top of it instead of the side ?
If your tank is closed on top and can not overflow, then yes you can. Otherwise it will cause your tank to overflow. The entrance to the rain barrel must be lower than your rain diverter. The barrel will fill to the same height as the rain diverter outlet. Therefore, if you install the hole on top, your diverter must be higher, which will overfill the rain barrel.
Sz😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Do you think this will work if installed on a piece of guttering thats at a 45 degree angle?
I don't think it will work well at 45 degree angle. Most of the water will likely overflow back into the gutter before it reaches the exit.
So how do you clean out the debris?
Haven't yet had an issue with debris, but it makes sense that small crap would eventually accumulate. Large stuff will pass through the center. Maybe back flush it with a hose? I also have micro mesh gutter guards, and not much gets past those.
Gutter screen system for most debris?