Thanks. I have a Mazda 3 2015 that seems to misfire when starting but only every other start attempt. Example. I start the car in morning smooth. Turn it off, next start which is the 2nd it won't turn over. But then the 3rd attempt of the day it starts smooth again. All day this goes on and on and on.
The ignition coils on this car have caused trouble for us before...the first time we had it towed to the dealership, it took DAYS, and it cost a LOT. The second time, my husband bought a couple of extra parts--high performance as opposed to what was in there originally, and fixed it himself. This is the third time. He was out of town, so he sent me your video. Neither of us made notes on what warning lights appeared those other times, but yesterday I noted that it was the TCS trouble light and the tire pressure trouble light. I've been having the check-engine light going on and staying on three out of four trips (the dealership has had it once--replaced the battery--but was unable to tell me what caused the light to go on) but it was NOT on when this problem cropped up yesterday. I started the car, everything was fine (and the day was beautiful). Less than 1/4 mile into the trip, the TCS trouble light and the tire pressure trouble light came on, the engine sounded just as you demonstrated in the video, and I couldn't accelerate. I'm not a mechanic. Your explanation of the entire process is so easy to follow! The attention to little details with clear imagery--like where, exactly, you need to push in order to "unlock" the wires--was greatly appreciated. So, I--in my driveway, after dark, on crutches from a knee injury last week, with my arthritic hands, was able to find the ignition coil that was malfunctioning and fix my car in under an hour. The TCS and tire pressure lights are off (the check engine light is back on--as expected and I assume is unrelated) and the engine is purring like a kitten. Thank you SO MUCH for this video!
had the same issue but I did not spend time figuring out which coil was faulty, changed all of them and the sparkplugs since I was there, 1 hour and $380 USD. Running like new
Thanks so much for making this video, you showed me exactly how to quickly test the coil packs on my wife's 2005 Mazda 3 and it worked! $35 and 20 minutes later I had replaced the coil pack on cylinder #1 and her car was fixed and running smoothly again - she was thrilled!
Thank you. I put in Iridium plugs and my mileage dropped from 28 to 26. I then tried the Ruthenium and it dropped to 24mph. I then put in Mazda stock plugs and it went up to 26mpg. a month later the car started stumbling on acceleration. Thinking I was going to take it to the dealer, I Watched your video. THe car was hard to drive with the stumbling. I put in B-12 and Mystery fluid thinking bad gas. Still rough ride. I then I put the new (month old) Ruthenium and the engine is back. Perfectly smooth. I have seen other videos with the same problem with the stock plugs . . . Thank you
Great vid. Helped me out of a pinch when a toasted ignition coil left me troubleshooting on the side of the road. Was able to diagnose, and replace in under an hour. Very logical and structured approach to diagnostic.
Hey, thanks for that diagnosing procedure. When I was young, that's the type of thing I liked doing. Now, I'm older and can't crouch over the hood of a vehicle for too long. I miss my younger body :(
My 2015 Mazda CX-5 just threw the same code. Auto parts store pulled code says #1 cylinder misfire and suggested replacing the coil pack. Thanks to your video, I'm going to do the same thing you did then probably replace the plugs, since it has 100K miles on them. Thanks!
Very helpful, thank you! I had a bad #2 coil pack. Using the unplug-replug-shake diagnosis method in the video I was able to identify the right one. One thing worth mentioning is that when you unplug each pack, the amount of increase in shaking of "good" cylinders is not uniform cylinder to cylinder. My #3, when unplugeed, shook considerably more than when I checked #1 and #4 (#2 in my case did not shake and was the problem). Perhaps my lack of uniformity is indicative of another issue that someone smarter than me might now more about.
Good vid. Before I pull a plug out, I break it loose first, then blow out any debris from the spark plug hole with compressed air. Then take it out. This prevents crap from falling into the combustion chamber and scoring the walls.
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to fix my 2014 Mazda CX-5 2wd. Was my ignition coil 2. I replaced all spark plugs anyway. Saved me a lot! $$. Thank you for your time.
Great video I just scope the coil with a ignition engine ignition analyzer and makes life much easier but if u don’t have a scope your approach is very good 👍 great video
Hey, thanks for helpful video. Note there is a TSB Bulletin No: 01-014/16 stating coils are bad on 13-16 cx5 and 14-16 3 and 6. Should have been a safety recall in my opinion. My #3 coil failed on freeway and made everything malfunction including transmission. Car would run rough for 30s and then transmission would cease functioning and all the warning lights came on.
Thank you so much!! Im beginning to wonder if thats why my 2013 CX5 2.0 has such a slow build up of acceleration from a stop. The torque doesnt kick in until you are in the 3000 rpm range. It has 177000 miles on it. No mods, completely stock and extremely well kept.
Hey, hopefully you see this and can reply. I did an intake valve cleaning with CRC spray into the throttle body (2018 cx-5 with 60,000 mi) and now im getting 0300 code. No CEL or stored codes but pending 0300 while its running. at idle the rpms dip every few seconds causing engine shake and i can feel random misfires when im cruising. I pulled all the plugs. they look like they all have about 60,000 miles on them. not bad but not great. filled it up with good gas. no improvements. any thoughts would be appreciated from anyone. *Edit: I replaced all four plugs with NGK Iridium Laser and that seemed to fix it
Was driving highway speed and one of the cylinders went out. Code 0301 meaning cylinder 01 far left. I pulled the coil and spark plug boot off while it was running and it made no difference. Plugs look good but I'll try swapping them to see if it's the issue, that's a lot cheaper than $120 coil!
you should always use a spark plug socket when removing or installing spark plugs... theres a reason they have the rubber to protect the ceramic insulation. if you break it and remove the plug, letting the pieces fall into the cylinder, you've just created a lot more work for yourself.
The rubber insert is to hold the plug in place. And the only time I broke a ceramic was on a hard-to-reach V8 plug using a swivel. The swivel caused side loading.
Thank for your video. Gives me some good things to check for. Mine stutters at idle and runs smoothly after but my check engine light just turned on. Any major concerns to look out for? I scanned it and code was what led me here
I just looked back on the video real quick. I didn't really phrase that correctly. It should either stay the same or get worse when you disconnect the coil.Yours is getting better when you remove the coil?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow yes. It's kind of rough idling when I start the car, then I unplug coil for cylinder 1, and it doesn't run as it should run, but the rough idling lessens.
Got you. Well yeah I would start with replacing the four spark plugs with OEM ones and go from there. I haven't seen that many spark plugs go bad in the past, but apparently with these it's a fairly common issue from what I read online
I have a 2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD that keeps going into limp mode. I've replaced the spark plugs, coils, MAS, and filters. It's still going into limp mode. Could it be the fuel injector, or do you think it's going to be the computer?
What year and model was this CX-5 for and how many miles were on this CX-5? I had the same issue with MY 2017 CX-5 AWD Touring at 67K. My CX-5 while idle parked, while starting up, and at stop light or stop sign would shake & rumble bad. My mechanic diagnosed and got the misfire engine code and it was valve #4 that had the problem. I had the 4 spark replaced and engine coils replaced. But I also had another problem with bad fuel injector build which was cleaned but had to have the fuel injection system replaced.
Chris: Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions and didn't have a problem with the plugs or coils, and also had the throttle bottle area taken out and pro cleaned. My car still shakes after its warmed up and I accelerate. Is it possible its the fuel injectors or thermostat need to be changed or cleaned, do you have a video about that on the mazda 3?
I got a p0302 code engine light etc. Changed the coil pack. Engine light came back on. Brand new plugs. What else could be causing the misfire? Getting a light occasional sputtering at idle.
At 5:00 , min. the shocker finding, so many people don't change their spark plugs in a timely manner. It's so important and inexpensive, even if you'd pay a mechanic $200 to do it., omg!
HI. I have a Mazda 3 BN 2017 2.2D AT. I think I have misfire cilinder 1 at 1400-1500 rpm (when idling and sometimes when driving, quite rough, Rpm jumps up and down for few seconds) . My engine is different as being diesel so I cannot do exactly like you. Any ideas how can be resolved? Thanks
Hey man, I have a 2016 2.2 diesel and when I’m driving, Especially in 2nd and 3rd gear, the car starts getting jerky like it’s misfiring! Any idea where I should start with it being a diesel as I’ve been told the diesel cx 5 doesn’t have spark plugs!
I have 2016 mazda cx3 its got 234k on it for some reason injector 4 always gets clog i did flush injector swap 1 and 4 just to see same thing seems port 4 isuspected fuel rail clog 1 - 3 burn correctly u can see clearly white ceramic at the tip of spark plug also swap injector 4 with newer plug same result kinda hard to believe fuel rail will get clog
I thought this might have been my issue on my 2018 CX-5 with 27,000 miles but nope. I removed all 4 and the shaking got worse with each removal. Any other thoughts? My shake seems to only happen during idle, I have not noticed it on the highway since I drive about 28 miles one way. I definitely feel it at idle in park or at idle in drive.
Hi I have a question anyone could help i live in NSW Sydney i have a 2018 2.2 turbo diesel mazda done 55000kms CX5 the car was showing dpf warning light the mazda cx5 has been taken 3 times to mazda car workshop dealer they have changed the DPF sensor and checked car all around and they done a full report test. The was repaird but the issue still has come again with the same problem the Next day DPF warning light What could it be please.
LMFAO....how " adequate " is your brain?....1st fuel..2nd spark..3rd Air if you take that skull cap off you might get that necessary ingredient to fire up
Lol, I don't really know what's even make of your comment. If You think all an engine needs to run is "fuel, spark and Air" then you obviously don't work on cars very often.
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Thanks. I have a Mazda 3 2015 that seems to misfire when starting but only every other start attempt. Example. I start the car in morning smooth. Turn it off, next start which is the 2nd it won't turn over. But then the 3rd attempt of the day it starts smooth again. All day this goes on and on and on.
The ignition coils on this car have caused trouble for us before...the first time we had it towed to the dealership, it took DAYS, and it cost a LOT. The second time, my husband bought a couple of extra parts--high performance as opposed to what was in there originally, and fixed it himself. This is the third time. He was out of town, so he sent me your video.
Neither of us made notes on what warning lights appeared those other times, but yesterday I noted that it was the TCS trouble light and the tire pressure trouble light. I've been having the check-engine light going on and staying on three out of four trips (the dealership has had it once--replaced the battery--but was unable to tell me what caused the light to go on) but it was NOT on when this problem cropped up yesterday. I started the car, everything was fine (and the day was beautiful). Less than 1/4 mile into the trip, the TCS trouble light and the tire pressure trouble light came on, the engine sounded just as you demonstrated in the video, and I couldn't accelerate.
I'm not a mechanic. Your explanation of the entire process is so easy to follow! The attention to little details with clear imagery--like where, exactly, you need to push in order to "unlock" the wires--was greatly appreciated. So, I--in my driveway, after dark, on crutches from a knee injury last week, with my arthritic hands, was able to find the ignition coil that was malfunctioning and fix my car in under an hour. The TCS and tire pressure lights are off (the check engine light is back on--as expected and I assume is unrelated) and the engine is purring like a kitten. Thank you SO MUCH for this video!
had the same issue but I did not spend time figuring out which coil was faulty, changed all of them and the sparkplugs since I was there, 1 hour and $380 USD. Running like new
Thanks so much for making this video, you showed me exactly how to quickly test the coil packs on my wife's 2005 Mazda 3 and it worked! $35 and 20 minutes later I had replaced the coil pack on cylinder #1 and her car was fixed and running smoothly again - she was thrilled!
Thank you. I put in Iridium plugs and my mileage dropped from 28 to 26. I then tried the Ruthenium and it dropped to 24mph. I then put in Mazda stock plugs and it went up to 26mpg. a month later the car started stumbling on acceleration. Thinking I was going to take it to the dealer, I Watched your video. THe car was hard to drive with the stumbling. I put in B-12 and Mystery fluid thinking bad gas. Still rough ride. I then I put the new (month old) Ruthenium and the engine is back. Perfectly smooth. I have seen other videos with the same problem with the stock plugs . . . Thank you
Great vid. Helped me out of a pinch when a toasted ignition coil left me troubleshooting on the side of the road. Was able to diagnose, and replace in under an hour. Very logical and structured approach to diagnostic.
Magnificent to hear the video helped you out and I really appreciate you dropping a comment. Thanks
Thanks for posted this. Figured out it was a bad coil. Saved me from having to tow it to a shop, and paying to have it diagnosed and fixed.
Hey, thanks for that diagnosing procedure. When I was young, that's the type of thing I liked doing. Now, I'm older and can't crouch over the hood of a vehicle for too long. I miss my younger body :(
It's very good for you to take a break,iam 69 and i just started to learn by the way im in good shape thanks God.
My 2015 Mazda CX-5 just threw the same code. Auto parts store pulled code says #1 cylinder misfire and suggested replacing the coil pack. Thanks to your video, I'm going to do the same thing you did then probably replace the plugs, since it has 100K miles on them. Thanks!
Very helpful, thank you! I had a bad #2 coil pack. Using the unplug-replug-shake diagnosis method in the video I was able to identify the right one. One thing worth mentioning is that when you unplug each pack, the amount of increase in shaking of "good" cylinders is not uniform cylinder to cylinder. My #3, when unplugeed, shook considerably more than when I checked #1 and #4 (#2 in my case did not shake and was the problem). Perhaps my lack of uniformity is indicative of another issue that someone smarter than me might now more about.
Maybe it has something to do with the firing order, which should be 1-3-4-2
Chris, you saved me a bunch of money. I was able to find a bad #2 coil with this video. Thanks.
Good vid.
Before I pull a plug out, I break it loose first, then blow out any debris from the spark plug hole with compressed air.
Then take it out.
This prevents crap from falling into the combustion chamber and scoring the walls.
Thanks man, and yeah I agree that's a good idea. I usually do the same, but I was working outside since there was no Bay available at the time
Wow everything you said on this video was right on the money...even the miles was spot on! Ty
No problem then! Glad it was helpful and I appreciate you dropping some feedback
thanks
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to fix my 2014 Mazda CX-5 2wd. Was my ignition coil 2. I replaced all spark plugs anyway. Saved me a lot! $$. Thank you for your time.
No problem! Happy to hear it helped out
Great video I just scope the coil with a ignition engine ignition analyzer and makes life much easier but if u don’t have a scope your approach is very good 👍 great video
Exactly what I needed. Thanks. 5 vehicles in family so I just subscribed.
Awesome. Glad it helped out and thank you
Thank you , your video help me fix my miss fire on 2014 mazda cx-5
No problem! So glad to hear it helped you out
Brother very good video,simple easy to understand.God bless you I am goin to try with my daughter 07 odyssey.
Saved me lots of grief! Thanks for the great vid!
Hey, thanks for helpful video. Note there is a TSB Bulletin No: 01-014/16 stating coils are bad on 13-16 cx5 and 14-16 3 and 6. Should have been a safety recall in my opinion. My #3 coil failed on freeway and made everything malfunction including transmission. Car would run rough for 30s and then transmission would cease functioning and all the warning lights came on.
Too funny my mazda 5 ..2014 did the same hahaha thanks have a great weekend
Oh really! Must be a Mazda spark plug thing. Enjoy your weekend as well!
Thank you so much!! Im beginning to wonder if thats why my 2013 CX5 2.0 has such a slow build up of acceleration from a stop. The torque doesnt kick in until you are in the 3000 rpm range. It has 177000 miles on it. No mods, completely stock and extremely well kept.
Thank you!!!! Your AWESOME!!!! YOUR VIDEO WAS A GOD SEND
Thank you Chris. Fine job. Big help
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful
Very well explained. Thanks.
Definitely helped. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Chris great video. Helped me fix a friends cx5
That was a quick and cool deduction, 😎
simple and well explained, thanks😊
YOU ARE AWESOME! lol Thank-you so much Christopher!
Ur so clear 👍
GREAT VIDEO VERY HELPFUL!!
Awesome. Glad to hear it helped
Just looking for now. Thanks. Maybe helps later
Hey, hopefully you see this and can reply. I did an intake valve cleaning with CRC spray into the throttle body (2018 cx-5 with 60,000 mi) and now im getting 0300 code. No CEL or stored codes but pending 0300 while its running. at idle the rpms dip every few seconds causing engine shake and i can feel random misfires when im cruising. I pulled all the plugs. they look like they all have about 60,000 miles on them. not bad but not great. filled it up with good gas. no improvements. any thoughts would be appreciated from anyone.
*Edit: I replaced all four plugs with NGK Iridium Laser and that seemed to fix it
Awesome video, thank you.
Thanks. And no prob!
Was driving highway speed and one of the cylinders went out. Code 0301 meaning cylinder 01 far left. I pulled the coil and spark plug boot off while it was running and it made no difference.
Plugs look good but I'll try swapping them to see if it's the issue, that's a lot cheaper than $120 coil!
Thank you!
Brill video but I have a diesel similar issue I do get rough idle without acceleration at times too
you should always use a spark plug socket when removing or installing spark plugs... theres a reason they have the rubber to protect the ceramic insulation. if you break it and remove the plug, letting the pieces fall into the cylinder, you've just created a lot more work for yourself.
The rubber insert is to hold the plug in place. And the only time I broke a ceramic was on a hard-to-reach V8 plug using a swivel. The swivel caused side loading.
Great video thanks.Do you need to check the sparkplug gap?
Hi. Thank for your video.
Do you know how much air volune should be on idle? And on 2000 rpm? Thanks.
Thank for your video. Gives me some good things to check for. Mine stutters at idle and runs smoothly after but my check engine light just turned on. Any major concerns to look out for? I scanned it and code was what led me here
I changed plugs and I’m thinking I need a new coil I unplugged coils one at a time and one of them didn’t change the idol.
What if when you remove the ignition coil wire, the rough idling gets better?
I just looked back on the video real quick. I didn't really phrase that correctly. It should either stay the same or get worse when you disconnect the coil.Yours is getting better when you remove the coil?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow yes. It's kind of rough idling when I start the car, then I unplug coil for cylinder 1, and it doesn't run as it should run, but the rough idling lessens.
Interesting. And did you try the other three
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow yes I did.
Got you. Well yeah I would start with replacing the four spark plugs with OEM ones and go from there. I haven't seen that many spark plugs go bad in the past, but apparently with these it's a fairly common issue from what I read online
Chris, I've had the same symptoms for two years, replaced nearly everything except fuel injectors! Any suggestions?
My 2013 cx5 owned it now 6 years and twice now clogged fuel injectors always number 3
Appreciate it very much
I have a 2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD that keeps going into limp mode. I've replaced the spark plugs, coils, MAS, and filters. It's still going into limp mode. Could it be the fuel injector, or do you think it's going to be the computer?
What year and model was this CX-5 for and how many miles were on this CX-5? I had the same issue with MY 2017 CX-5 AWD Touring at 67K. My CX-5 while idle parked, while starting up, and at stop light or stop sign would shake & rumble bad. My mechanic diagnosed and got the misfire engine code and it was valve #4 that had the problem. I had the 4 spark replaced and engine coils replaced. But I also had another problem with bad fuel injector build which was cleaned but had to have the fuel injection system replaced.
They take premium gas because it's direct injection
thank you
Chris: Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions and didn't have a problem with the plugs or coils, and also had the throttle bottle area taken out and pro cleaned. My car still shakes after its warmed up and I accelerate. Is it possible its the fuel injectors or thermostat need to be changed or cleaned, do you have a video about that on the mazda 3?
Possible the intake is build up with carbon
I got a p0302 code engine light etc. Changed the coil pack. Engine light came back on. Brand new plugs. What else could be causing the misfire? Getting a light occasional sputtering at idle.
At 5:00 , min. the shocker finding, so many people don't change their spark plugs in a timely manner. It's so important and inexpensive, even if you'd pay a mechanic $200 to do it., omg!
HI. I have a Mazda 3 BN 2017 2.2D AT. I think I have misfire cilinder 1 at 1400-1500 rpm (when idling and sometimes when driving, quite rough, Rpm jumps up and down for few seconds) . My engine is different as being diesel so I cannot do exactly like you.
Any ideas how can be resolved?
Thanks
Sorry I'm not too familiar with the newer Mazda diesels
did you check for carbon build up as this is a direct injection engine
I had a similar issue on my 2015. Had the plugs and s belt changed, and now the hesitation is worse. Any idea of what else I should have have done?
is it misfiring? If so I would recheck the plug gaps and that the coils are seated properly
Injectors
@@smahring absolutely right. Just got them done last week👍
@@nateejl glad to hear it got fixed... common problem people always don't think of.
thanks bro
I got P0300 but it tells me exhaust leak? I know Mazdas are notorious for blowing exhaust gaskets. Would that be the case before the sensor?
I get the error code p0302 on the 2010 Mazda CX9? Is this the cylinder/ spark plug in the front or rear?
Hey man, I have a 2016 2.2 diesel and when I’m driving, Especially in 2nd and 3rd gear, the car starts getting jerky like it’s misfiring! Any idea where I should start with it being a diesel as I’ve been told the diesel cx 5 doesn’t have spark plugs!
I have 2016 mazda cx3 its got 234k on it for some reason injector 4 always gets clog i did flush injector swap 1 and 4 just to see same thing seems port 4 isuspected fuel rail clog 1 - 3 burn correctly u can see clearly white ceramic at the tip of spark plug also swap injector 4 with newer plug same result kinda hard to believe fuel rail will get clog
I thought this might have been my issue on my 2018 CX-5 with 27,000 miles but nope. I removed all 4 and the shaking got worse with each removal. Any other thoughts? My shake seems to only happen during idle, I have not noticed it on the highway since I drive about 28 miles one way. I definitely feel it at idle in park or at idle in drive.
Did you figure it out?
@@abou824 Yup, luckily swapping out the spark plugs resolved my issue.
@@zekskez Great to hear!
Probably failed due to the mice tearing up the padding on the engine cover.
I wish you can be in Texas
now why wouldn't that throw a code?
Mazda CX-5 gyújtáskimaradás javítva 2.0L - P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304
one coil broke, and change all of them, coils supposed to be changed every now and then.
Hi I have a question anyone could help i live in NSW Sydney i have a 2018 2.2 turbo diesel mazda done 55000kms CX5 the car was showing dpf warning light the mazda cx5 has been taken 3 times to mazda car workshop dealer they have changed the DPF sensor and checked car all around and they done a full report test. The was repaird but the issue still has come again with the same problem the Next day DPF warning light What could it be please.
Spoiler alert …..I don’t think that this is really Chris Brown.
LMFAO....how " adequate " is your brain?....1st fuel..2nd spark..3rd Air if you take that skull cap off you might get that necessary ingredient to fire up
Lol, I don't really know what's even make of your comment. If You think all an engine needs to run is "fuel, spark and Air" then you obviously don't work on cars very often.
This thing is turbo .. no it's not .. lol this is just stupid shit
?
I believe he was checking to see if it was turbo or not.
Awesome thank you!
Mazda CX-5 gyújtáskimaradás javítva 2.0L - P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304