Ultimate Photography ISO Experiment - Film VS Digital VS Polaroid
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this Ultimate Photography ISO Experiment, my main objective is to test different camera types to see just how similar the images exposures turn out when using the same ISO value. Using medium format 120 film on a Chamonix F-2, a Sony A7RV, and a Polaroid I-2, I put them through their paces capturing challenging lighting conditions in the Idaho landscape.
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It's funny to think that this experiment - to anyone who has studied photography - is nearly pointless. The ultimate answer is that ISO (the acronym for International Standards Organization) was in fact standardized nearly 50 years ago, but until you see it with your own eyes, it's difficult to quantify what that actually means. That's where this experiment really came in handy. In my mind, I knew ISO should be consistent across photography medium, but now I can actually see it for myself. And seeing is, especially for photographers, believing.
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#landscapephotography #photographytipsforbeginners
Good to see you back on the tube again. Your landscape is so different from here in the UK.
I have to be honest, with the weather we've been having here this summer, I wish my landscape was like yours! Haha!
Great test and definitely good to see that they aren't wildly off from each other. That last shot was definitely worth the effort.
Thank you so much! Really love that last cliffside, and I'm happy I got it in film and digital just in case. ;)
one tip, if you had acquired a Lomograflok back, then you could have eliminated one body in your kit, as the LF is capable of not only MF formats (6x4.5 to 6x17) but with the lomograflok polaroid (fujifilm Instax Wide) films are also available to shoot; so technically the LF could have done polaroid and Film, and if a LF camera digital back adaptor was used, then ALL three formats could have shared the same body, lens, and exposure meters, so simplifying the gear carried.
Man, that would have made this so much easier! Haha! Setting up three different cameras like this was a lot of excess effort!
great video. When i used to shoot pola on cold sets for references we would rub the back while timing the exposure. Worked a treat and colouirs were spot on
That's super helpful insight! I really appreciate it! I started sticking it in an inner pocket during the cold months after this trip. How do you deal with Polaroid in extreme heat? I've tried putting it in a cooler, but it seems like no matter what I do, if it's above 80, the image turns yellow/orange.
@@JudeStreicherPhoto we used to have a mini icebox with dry ice bags. We would check temp on location and then adjust accordingly but pola is by nature not constant. I never used pola as a last image it was always just to check. So even if colours were off it didnt matter as i could see what the outcome would be like regardless. When doing BW it was slightly different as we would use the peel apart and then the negative would come from that at times. But then colour wasnt an issue
Hey Jude! Very much enjoyed your experiment here. Thanks for all your efforts in this process and for sharing the results. Not a big fan of shooting Polaroid. My results never seem to vary. They are always bad. Nice to see one of your videos again. Always enjoy them. Have a great summer now.🙂
Thank you so much! And Polaroid is a crap shoot - my words, not theirs. Haha! I've been trying to figure it out enough to get relatively consistent results, but every time I think I've "nailed it," I open up a new pack, and it does something unexpected...
Dude, welcome back! I'm glad you spent all that time and effort... just to confirm on Wikipedia haha. Looking forward to what else you get into this summer
Hey man! It feels like that research would have been smart to do before I started filming. Haha! You got any plans for trips this summer?
@@JudeStreicherPhoto none yet, but I’m itching to do something soon!
I know exactly what you mean! So hard to get out with little ones at home!
Driving like an Italian...haha. Great video!
Hahaha! That's my roots right there! So funny you could tell.
I only shoot film and treat film ISO as a tool. Really its something to consider when thinking about how I want the end product to look. I'm not one of those delusional people who think its possible to have a non edited finished photograph, but I try my best to get it right first time in camera, sometimes that means leaving taking the photo for another day. The inevitable changes that occur when negatives are converted to digital or even prints now in labs are beyond my control.
I will be buying my own epson scanner, but that won't change much, I'm only doing that because one of the formats I shoot (6x17) costs so much to get scanned in labs, not because I could do it better.
That's a great mindset. And you're totally right - every photo is "edited" to some extent. Having control of the entire process - capturing, developing, scanning, etc. - is super fulfilling!
I have gone down this rabbit hole too, I shoot Nikon Z6, Hasselblad (H1 & 500c\m) and a sinar F2 and this is similar to what I've found, they all act similarly, However, in Larger formats, MF and LF to be precise, you NEED to be more careful, Glare and the telephoto nature of those lenses mean motion blur, and flaring are evils we have to face; so USE lens hoods ALWAYS, an ND filter, and cable release/M_up/Tripod all the time, it saves your pictures.
Expose film over Digital, Film needs light to make the shadows have enough detail, Digital can be blown out with over, so under expose to get highlights correct (or use ND, as I mentioned previously). Digital is a great PARTNER to film!, it's histogram gives glare warnings, and shows us what contrast will look like, so if the shot works or not.
That makes a lot of sense! I feel like I can always "recover" more out of a digital image than I can out of film when scanning.
one tip, most POLAROID type instant films, (instax Wide certainly) is rated at iso 800 !! so using your 160 iso constant variable in the experiment means you have under exposed it by a 2-3 stop factor!, if my maths is right, no wonder it all turned out dark.
But in addendum to my earlier comments, ASA 100/160/200 are your friends in bright light, giving you some leeway in exposing the highlights, so none are too hot, certainly at EV values 15+ it SAVES washing out your pictures, and if it's grain you are after, EkTar is great, and IS a 100asa film, so this proves it.
Hey, thanks for the comment! You're right, most instant film is rated to higher ISO (like 640), but that SX-70 film I shot for most of this video is actually ISO160. I was pretty thorough in prepping the film for this test. If the images turned out dark, I suspect the cold had more to do with that than incorrect metering. I've experience poor transfer of chemicals due to cold temperatures. Again, very much appreciate the comment!
Interesting! I would note, however, that my brothers Canon R5 images are typically brighter than my A7RV images with the same settings. Maybe I can conclude, from this video, that mine are more “accurate.” 😉
Heck yeah, yours is more accurate! A7RV is the epitome of accuracy.... hehehehe.