As an update, I now have a video up demonstrating how to fix the saw so it will cut on the same line at 45 degrees as at zero - as Mafell claim it should. See here - ua-cam.com/video/2Mzkk5O9e58/v-deo.html
Very interesting thanks. I had the pleasure of working alongside a few German carpenters this summer, who used the he Maffell kss400 and its bigger sister to great effect, ripping along 4Ms of 3x3 with out breaking a sweat. I was particularly impressed with the depth adjustment on the kss400, which could be done with one hand whilst holding the saw half way up vertical 2M cut, with no effort.
Cheers Ross. Can well believe it. The whole "K" range of saws is hard to fault tbh. Really nicely powered and featured. That and German carpenters know their stuff!
Hi Malcolm thanks for a great little video, had mine about 2 weeks and have not had much need to use it much since it arrived ( tipacle ) the only time I have used it was to cut some high gloss mdf panels for a fitted kitchen, that before it arrived I was having to do the cut a few mm long and then cut them back with the router. Using the score cut, on an off cut, and then the full death cut, it gave totally perfect finish with no paint chips at all. I got to say that I learnt more from watching your video about the saw, than I did from the useless instruction leaflet that came with the saw, for what it cost I though it would have been the size of war and peace! Even the info about removing the plastic infills on the base of the saw, so as to be able to use the F'###'l track. Thanks once again, keep then vids coming!
Thanks for the great comments Martin. Sometimes the handbooks can be really disappointing. Means we're left trying to figure most of it out on the fly. Makes it worthwhile to here some folks find the vids helpful. Thank you.
@@martinmackett2758 ahh...I see where you got "Malcolm" from now. Those were just links to other folks/sites when I first started the channel. I need to update that. Thanks for the reminder.
@@BischBaschBosch good evening, I am new and late to the track saw Arena and am used to using my tools in dimly lit construction settings and they work well because they all have lights. Does the battery power version have any lights? Does the Bosch Batteries fit the Mafell saw? Does this saw have the most powerful motor when compared to the other cordless competitors? I want to cry once and buy once what do you recommend?
That's great Jack, thanks. Your question about the bevel along with others from people on Facebook and forums etc were what spurred me into making the vid. So thanks to you too. All the best.
Great Video! I just bought the Festool, it is the better saw in my opinion (offset on the score function, missing handle, missing wedge, especially with the scoring funtion being the main argument pro Mafell). I love your style, clear and straight to the point. Creates a special kind of humor i like. Does it do this or that ? : your answer: No.. Yes .. no bla bla bla !! Great .
Thanks very much. Don't think you'll be disappointed with the Festool. Used a colleagues many times. Great saw. For me, the Mafell is still the benchmark plunge saw though. The offset on the score is controversial but, on laminates, it gives a perfect cut line every single time without giving it any thought, or taking measures to avoid chipping. The power delivery, build quality and adjustability is also pretty unmatched, which for the variety of work I do has proved essential. The missing riving knife and handle are down to preference and I totally get it if people prefer these features. I've never suffered a kickback with this saw after 3 years of using it. The trick is (as with all circular/plunge saws tbh) to let the motor ramp up to speed before committing to a cut/plunge, don't over stretch (which can cause you to twist the saw) or force the saw. I did briefly have the Bosch plunge saw before this one that had the handle. Honestly never used it and if I used my other hand, instinctively put it on the base - as I do with the Mafell. Most of these things are very much down to the way you work though and therefore subjective. In general, I've found plunge saws to be the one area where pretty much all the major manufacturers offer very decent saws. We're spoilt for choice really. Appreciate your comments Thariel. Both about why you prefer the Festool and about the Vid.
A great demo, think you covered just about everything I have this saw with Mafell tracks I used a Festool a few times but for me this is a far superior saw and rail system. As for some comments about it not sliding on the track smoothly, mine is just a dream to use and a superb cut. Know it’s expensive but for me it the best on the market. I also have the Mafell jigsaw was never really a fan of jigsaws due to there inability to cut at 90 degrees accurately, but this again is a dream to use and I find you can even cut .5 of a millimetre off and the blade still stays true. It fits on there track if required, for me Mafell is head and shoulders above what’s on the market at present, the Dogs 👍
Great review. i have the bosch and can see the advantages the mafell has over it ! I set the blade about 2-3mm deep and run the saw backwards to score ply and the like. works great.
Cheers o bez. Yeh, used to do the shallow run back on my old saws. Works quite nice on laminates too. Good technique but you need to know what you're doing. The Bosch GKT is a great saw. It's the one I used to have. The big brands are all pretty close if people were honest. All very good. I don't regret buying the Mafell though. V Nice machine.
Great video, I've just recently bought the mt55 and I wish I'd done it years ago, it's such a great bit of kit. Ive got the guide rail to go with it and bought a ripping blade and also a blade for composite materials like vinyl flooring which is excellent by the way. The ripping blade working with the guide rail is an absolute pleasure, I don't think I'll be using the table saw much now. I did notice when cutting formica sheeting (shower paneling) on 45 degrees it did chip(not alot) even after using the scoring function, that my only gripe but I'm probably doing something wrong with the set up.
Thanks mate. So the score function is no more than a washer, machined 1/10mm thinner one side than the other. This means the first 3mm of cut is exactly at the anti splinter, then steps slightly (1/10mm) away cutting right through. Sometimes, the saw will be slightly away from the anti splinter when beveled and, as such, can't make best use of the anti-splinter for best cut. I hope you get what I mean. I have a video where I show how I adjusted my saw so it cuts on exactly the same line at 0 as at 45 degrees. If you do bevels on laminate regularly, could be worth a watch.👍
I wish all review videos were as concise and detailed as this. Thank you for not padding this with "like and subscribe" guff and "wassup guys" intros. For this I have liked and subscribed. Cheers
Thanks. Much better than the instructions that came with it. I must be getting old. Writing too small and hard to find the English section. Can't wait to get cutting. Cheers
😂 Yeah, I've joined the ranks of moving anything with writing closer and further away in an attempt to read it. Sure you'll love the saw mate. Mines been an absolute workhorse.
Excellent video with all the information I was looking for. I use a brilliant old Mafell KSP 55 (20 Yo) with the Bosch guide rails and because of the budget was going to upgrade to a Bosch GKT 55, but now... MT55cc mmmmm....
Thanks Kevin. I actually had the Bosch GKT before the Mafell. Great saw but the adjustability and quick blade change on the Mafell really appealed and have proved their worth tbh.
Hey Stuart, better to ask a question you think is dumb than to think you already know and look dumb to everyone else! Never a dumb question in that sense. So generally, you might use 1 degree of bevel (undercut) on a cut to ensure two faces meet perfectly. The material that is hidden will have a slight gap so as to not hold a joint open. Quite common practice on tenon shoulders or dovetails. Imagine a t-lap joint, where the lap in the middle of the t-section you wanted to have undercut shoulders. Working from right to left, passing the workpiece under this saw, your first cut for the shoulder would use the -1 degree function to give it an undercut. As you passed the workpiece under the saw to cut the opposite shoulder, you'd use +1 degrees. This isn't to say laps joints need undercutting necessarily but hopefully serves as an example where you might use a -1 over a +1 degree bevel cut.
@@stuartcairnie9985 Ha. Sheet goods is where plunge/rail saws excel tbh. I only started using mine for some joinery - shoulders etc - after building my bench that makes this possible. Before that it was all sheet rips and sink cutouts. Go back a year or so, I'd have probably asked the same question as you.
The mafell is not available in Australia. Although from USA it can be imported. The tax and shipping is very expensive thought. Around $280 usd. I'm interested in the cordless version. I'm quite impressed with the guide rail system. Since I have the festool and did own the festool cordless plunge saw, Looking at a single battery with say the metabo battery will be desirable. Although is there much difference between the festool plunge saw and the mafell? I have noted the mafell is a little better. Is the mafell brushed or brushless. The festool I believe is brushed.
Hi Ronald. The cordless Mafell (MT55 18M BL) is brushless. The Mafell does have more features than the Festool, which if you do a variety of work, could be seen as making it a better saw. The micro adjust, score function, one knob bevel, completely enclosed blade and quick blade change are all features I find beneficial. The Mafell also feels very well built compared to other brands. With both the corded and cordless, I'd say the motor sounds and feels more effortless than the Festool, especially on thicker stock and/or hardwoods. Of course, whatever saw you buy, this can be helped with correct blade choice for the task. Despite sounding a bit ropey (in my view), Festool ts55 have proved long lived though. With the Mafell, you still have the option of buying into the festool rail and accessory system if you wish as the Mafell has a slot for those rails. Having used a few over the years now, my view is the Mafell is the benchmark currently.
I bit the bullet and bought the saw over a year and a 1/2 very impressed with it The best thing about the saw is the rails the connections are so accurate I never double check
@@rickyperkins232 I don't know for certain but, best guess is that barrel grip jigsaws like the mafell are almost always used upside down in Germany so, I guess mafell didn't see a light as necessary. It doesn't have a battery as mafell only make a corded jigsaw presently. Originally, I imagine this was due to the mafell needing more power than could be reliably delivered by old batteries, to push a 3mm wide cunex blade through full depth hardwood. Battery tech and capacity has moved on so I'm pretty sure we'll see a cordless mafell jigsaw soon.
Thanks for the helpful videos. In your view, do you think you can all but eliminate using a table saw with a mafell plunge saw? would love to see a video on this.
Cheers Si. Good question. You can certainly set yourself up to live without a table saw with a decent plunge saw, rail and table system. There are some instances where a table saw is better - or at least easier - not least ripping.
@@BischBaschBosch Thank you. I have both a mafell plunge saw and a table saw. I'm not a lover of the table saw due to the dust and scary blade. I'm looking at investing in an MFT table style system with the view of reducing my dependency on the table and mitre saw. I know Peter Millard manages quite well with just and mft and Plunge saw, but was after additional opinions. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
@@Simon-Smith. No problem mate. I would say it depends what you work with. Peter works a lot with sheet materials where this set up excels. For solid woods, the table saw has it's uses. All the best
cracking vid, first time finding your channel and instant like and sub, really informative and cuts to the chase on many things other creators don't cover, 10/10. now to look through the rest of your content :D
Thanks Nathan and good question. The plunge saw in particular is something I always use extraction with so I'm not too bothered about the cord. If I were still working on large commercial sites I'd opt for the cordless but I mainly do smaller private work now so again, happy with corded. Very much depends how you work I think.
Thanks man. Yeah, I think mafell in particular could up their game demoing and publicising their tools and features. They're only a tiny company but still.🤷♂️
Hi just got my saw and love it do you have a video on how the mico adjustments are it wobbles slightly on the rail and i know the knobs front and back can adjust them?
Hi Kieth. I haven't done a video on adjustments (good idea though). Yeah, the 2 knobs on the base can be adjusted to take up any slack between the saw base and the rail.
Bisch Basch Bosch thanks managed to fiddle and got it working a dream lovely cut had to tweak the depth gauge and fine tune but all good. Now I need to work out some hinge system for my standard wood table and invest in the small bench dogs shame it over hangs really
Nice vid. I have the same saw and when I bought it from a Mafell salesman. They said that the scoring switch only effected the 3mm depth and that the blade would always move that 10th gradually as you plunged to full depth. Creating a slight bevel if plunging into material. So to negate that, he recommended getting into the habit of plunging full depth before entering cut and releasing after you've exited.... if you know what mean. Almost a deal breaker but love it all the same. I notice you do this though
Cheers Jesse. That's interesting, I didn't know that. It's just from using the saw over time I've found better cut quality and fit from plunging full depth before the cut works best.
It's the washer in the pivot that once it plunges past a few mm shifts the blade over 0.1mm. It is more of a defined step rather than an angle and can be seen and felt.You can test this if you slowly plunge the saw, there's a slight resistance after a few mm, watch the gap between the washers at the pivot point. As you plunge past a few mm they move apart slightly as one of the washers has a ridge or something on it to move the blade. So yeah if cutting non-laminates it is best to do the plunge past this point before entering the material to avoid the tiny step created by the score followed by full depth plunge at the start of your entry. If using laminates and the 0.1mm is a problem either due to the increased glue line or jointing two boards then a quick way to remove it is to run a small bearing guided flush trim bit on a router with the bearing running along the score cut area. This quickly solves any problems and is a lot quicker than when I've used my Dewalt track saw and had to use the router to remove 1 or 2mm to get rid of the chips caused by the blade exiting the score cut! Another thing to notes is that even panel saws have the scoring blade kerf thicker than the main blade. Even on the best this seems to created a kerf 0.05mm wider on each side of the main cut and on older saws seems to be anything up to 0.2mm.
@@simonh73 Great info Simon thanks. Just tested what you said and you're right. I can feel a slight resistance to the plunge after a few mm when pushed slowly down. Never noticed that before.
@@BischBaschBosch For anyone who's really geeky here's the Mafell patent description and the image that shows the design of bearing and description of how it works: See image at: patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/a4/fe/cf/7e85c080cac1bf/imgf0003.png The FIGS. 3A and 3B represent the bearing portion 25 in more detail. On the bearing block 31 of the base member 13 and the bearing plate 35 is a base part-side control surface 27 and a machine part-side control surface 29 is formed, which slide against each other and thereby cooperate in a pivoting of the machine part 15. It can be seen that the control surfaces 27, 29 are not flat, but that in the base part-side control surface 27, a cam 37 and in the machine part-side control surface 29, a recess 39 is formed. According to the pivot position of the machine part 15 of the cam 37 is in engagement with the recess 39 or disengaged. When the cam 37 according to Fig. 3A is engaged with the recess 39, the machine part 15 is in the unset position. When the cam 37 according to Fig. 3B moved out of engagement with the recess 39, the machine part 15 is pressed against the spring bias in the direction of the bearing portion 23, resulting in a transverse offset of the machine part 15 results in Fig. 3B denoted by D. The cam 37 and the recess 39 are matched to one another in such a way that, starting from the basic position of the machine part 15, they engage until reaching the predetermined cutting depth and only disengage when the predetermined cutting depth is exceeded. In the FIGS. 3A and 3B shown control surfaces 27, 29 provide essentially only two states, which correspond to no transverse offset and a maximum transverse offset D. However, the cam 37 and the recess 39 have a smooth running profile to allow an optimized sliding movement in the transition from the unset to the staggered state. Patent good until 2028 so don't expect to see it elsewhere anytime soon unless other manufacturers can find a different way of doing it.
Great info, that explains the slight angle at the top of the cuts then when plunging. Being used to a mitre saw, I always score the top then plunge through, this habit is obviously best avoided with the mafell.
Thanks mate. Their jigsaw is phenomenal. Very planted. Very powerful. The only downside for some they still don't yet make a cordless version of it. They're arguably the king of saws.
Sorry if I missed you saying but do all the Bosch rails work with the mafell? Are you missing out on anything by using the Bosch rails or are they exactly the same?
They're exactly the same bud. I have it from an official Mafell dealer that the rails are actually made by Mafell for Bosch but bosch ones are a little cheaper as, being such a huge company, they can subsidise the cost. Only difference is branding. More rail types and accessories for the Bosch ones - 32mm hole system for example.
Bought this saw a couple of months ago it's streets ahead of festool no brag just fact. Thanks for sharing your info . Btw what kind of a plug it did u put on it?
Bisch Basch Bosch was going to ask the same. I too bought this saw and absolutely love it. Btw, what’s the sock thingy around your extraction hose that shrouds the cable?
Good evening all. Loving the videos - Going to go crazy on Bangood for funky red set squares & splash the cash over at bench dogs UK. I did try to register on the Bosch forum however they are not accepting new registrations :-( Scenario Currently building a website & e-commerce platform. As a funky fresh startup the intent is to design, build & promote minimalistic furniture design made from mdf. Jointing shall be via a Lamello Zeta P2 (still have not seen one in real life)! Looking for a plunge saw to provide the best cut in mdf. The new saw shall probably have a specific mdf blade from the get go - if recommended? Question Is the Mafell really worth the extra £200 over the Bosch. Naturally if the business is a success the Mafell is a no brainer but £200 is still £200 & would probably take the chunk out of a router purchase too. Does the Mafell make a better, cleaner, more precise cut than the Bosch & is a specific pdf blade worth the wedge Mr Bisch Bash Bosch?
Hello Jack. Firstly, can't understand why u can't register on the bosch forum. If u have bosch tools and registered for warranty, try a different email address. That's what I had to do. I've been using the red aly stuff from banggood for a while now. It's spot on. Can't fault it, especially for the money. On plunge saws, I had the Bosch GKT. Found it an excellent plunge saw. Plenty of power, smart motor electronics and great rails...particularly on long sheets where u might want to join 2. I ended up with the Mafell because I work with such a range of materials. From hardwood, to laminates, to fibre cement. As such, the ease of blade change, micro adjust and score function was worth the extra ££'s. If you're going to be predominantly working in mdf, the Bosch will be perfectly decent. My experience with mdf, I tend to favour blades with less teeth. Say 32 rather than 48 find there's less chance of burn and any breakout. Particularly on thick stuff or cutting more than 1 sheet at a time. My favourite blades right now are those from Keyblades & Fixings. Their rip blades and triple chip (for laminates) are simply superior in cut quality. If you go for a Bosch GKT, their Mafell spec blades are also for the Bosch. Hope this helps and has covered everything.
@@BischBaschBosch Good afternoon Mr Bisch Basch Bosch, Thank you for the swift reply yesterday. Unfortunately I could not reply rapidly. The Mrs was sat next to me using the MacBook to catch up on dairy week - GBBO! Bosch forum. No idea either as an invitation email was sent informing that registration was successful? Banggood Guess Im watching (as we speak) your red Banggood video for a third or is it fourth time? Bosch GKT. / Mafell There were 2 Mafell on amazon.de second hand & cheap as chips. You know what they say “if it sounds too good to be true…” Looks like the hard earn bread is being dropped down on the Bosch GKT to save a crumb or two. Maybe need to also identify a hose connector for the Festool SYS vacuum. Blades Shall investigate this Again thank you kind Sir.
@@jackspectre4302 The rubber powertool adaptor on the Bosch vacs is good for 22/35mm. Festool do similar ones. Try the Festool 768135 Reducing Sleeve (27/36mm) or the Festool RMD36/27-AS Reducing Sleeve (27/36). These should be good for fitting into or over most power tool exhausts.
@@BischBaschBosch if I may ask, do you think taken into account 1.5mm blade/splinterguard difference. Is there enough splinterguard when new to allow trimming at 45 rather then 90. Perhaps having one rail marked for 45 only? My festool cuts on splinterguard accurate but when i see the joining of the mafell/bosch rails makes me think.
Nice review. This led me to take the plunge and buy one for myself. I have a feeling that something is wrong with mine tho. When i try to plunge the saw it feels smooth until about 12mm depth and then it stops and needs more force to push the blade further down. After that extra push the operation is smooth and easy again until full depth. It looks to me as the pivot is moving sideways just as the stop accurs. Not sure how to explain it other than its not a smooth action from start to full depth. Is this how the Mafell MT55cc should work? Or did i get a faulty machine? I have not plugged in the machine and used it yet so i can verify if the stop will affect the final cut or not. I have emailed Mafell regarding this but the answer is still pending.
Thanks sova jaja. It shouldn't be stopping anywhere on the plunge (except where you've set depth of course). Perhaps double check the score cut switch is fully switched to off. It is literally just a stop so if not fully off, there's a chance it might be catching as you plunge. If it's not that, it might be worth ringing your dealer/supplier. The plunge spring can be stiff on the mafell compared to some but it shouldnt be stopping or deflecting a plunge. Check the spring (between the base and blade housing) isnt catching. It might need exchanging. As always, make sure you've registered it online for the 3 year warranty.
@@BischBaschBosch Thanks for the swift reply. Its not stopping per se its just getting harder to plunge deeper than 12mm and after applying more force it is easy and smooth until full depth. I thought it had to do with the spring but the issue is still there even after removing the spring so i assume the problem is at the pivot point. I can even see the pivot moving sideways as the ”stop” accurs. If its not ment to be i will have to send it in to be fixed. I did register for the 3 year warranty. Too bad when its brand new and i just want to go ahead and use it.
@@sovajaja1718 That doesn't sound right at all. Yeah, when you buy a new tool, especially at this price point, you should expect to just unbox and go. Get it looked at or exchanged bud.👍
Now I received this saw for the test. In my GKT, an incision is added. And my decision on the notch, in my opinion, is much more convenient to work with. I do not understand why they made an offset without the ability to disable this function. In any case, pushing the lever for the notch and pushing it again is seriously stressing me out. In general, a strange situation. When working with chipboard and similar materials, you do not get a clean cut. You need to work with disks that are no better than in Bosch. And you get all this for twice the price of Bosch. The mechanization of the drive tilt is excellent. The ability to clean the dust removal area is also an advantage when working with fibrous materials or long chips.
The score function with the offset has always been controversial. Some people love it, some hate it. I like it but agree with you. It would be better if you could turn the offset on/off. All the other features of the mafell - ease of blade change, superb dust extraction and micro adjust - still set it apart from other plunge saws. For me, it's still the best saw out there.👍
That's the standard way, yeah. Can give you chip out on the back face though due to the up cut. Not always an issue on a back face but the idea of the score cut is both faces perfect. Also handy for clean sink cut outs and whatnot too.👍
Great video, i have just purchased the mt55, any videos on how to set up for the first time? Cutting the splinter guard? Instructions with the saw aren't very helpful. Thanks
Nice one Carl. I'm sure you'll love it. It should be good to go but worth checking the blade is square to the base. There is a little adjustment on the bevel marker if it's slightly out. As shown in the vid above, set your depth marker to off-rail at zero. With the saw on a flat surface, check the blades is just touching it. If it isn't, use the micro adjust to dial in a true zero. I did a video on the anti-splinter strip. Different saw but same deal. Put the rail on a sheet materiel you don't mind scoring, supporting the whole rail if poss. Set the saw to 5mm depth on-rail. Cut along the length in one smooth pass if you can for best results. Good this helps. ua-cam.com/video/NZyqjUdR5mk/v-deo.html
Hi mate. It is on mine. Smidge under 1.5mm. There shouldn't be any offset. It's supposed to cut on the same line as at 90/0 degrees. It can be reset apparently. It's recommended to send it to mafell but think I'll have a look at it myself before that. Just not found it enough of an issue to bother with but I'll look into it and share the results here.👍
I have seen the review with the scoring cut that people have complained about , if that was the only query with me buying this saw , could i just set the machine to plunge down 3mm and avoid using the scoring option , would it plunge straight or would it use the washer thing where it adjusts angle of the blade ? i have never owned or used one of these so forgive my lack of knowledge . Thanks
Hi Mark. The scoring function isn't something you can turn on/off. It works by way of a washer 0.1mm thinner at the top than bottom. This is what creates the step out when you plunge past 3mm (on rail). The switch is literally just a stop to limit the score depth to 3mm regardless of your main depth setting. I get absolutely no adverse affect using the score. I have a video specifically looking at that if you're interested. Peter Millard tested it too (if you've seen it) and was left with a hideous gap. Something wrong with his demo saw and should have been returned. Someone has commented on one of my videos that they removed the special washer completely. I love the score function personally though. Here's my video on the score cut and how it works: ua-cam.com/video/Wjn_8Hur9dg/v-deo.html
Great video. Never knew of some of these features on this saw. What’s funny is I thought Festool was the only company who made a track saw the first time I saw one. 😂 Now I own a Makita, Festool track saws.
Cheers. There was a time when only festool did a track saw. Most have them now though. I think the Makita is a decent plunge saw. Really well specced for the money too. And you can make use of all the festool accessories.
Bisch Basch Bosch - Thanks. That’s what I thought. Yes, I’m actually using my Makita on my Festool track because I had bought the Festool track way back when I bought the Festool saw. It’s corded and my Makita is cordless so I use the Makita more. 😊
Exactly the same saw functionally. Best performance is had with the 8ah metabo batteries. Doesn't have quite the power of the corded, nor say the Makita with 2 batteries but plenty powerful enough and better quality cut than the competition. See Concorde Carpenters recent cordless plunge saw head to head to see where the mafell comes out tops.👍
Thank you. Mafell tools are pricey compared to most but their quality and features do set them apart. They're built for every day professional use. Great results can be had with cheaper tools though. The most important thing with saws like this is blade choice. If on a more limited budget, that's where I'd recommend spending your money.👍
I've got both Mafell and Bosch tracks bud. They're exactly the same. In fact, Mafell make them for both brands. Besides, the anti-splinter strip is cut by the saw at zero degree so, even if there was a slight in the track, it should still tilt to 45 on the same line as the manufacturer claims. On mine it doesn't. Still think its the best plunge saw. And to be fair, they're not the only company to claim to bevel on the zero line and doesn't always...Not mentioning any names😉
@@lifeshort Sure you won't be disappointed mate. I keep meaning to have a look at the saw to see if it can be adjusted for the 45 degree cut line. Just haven't got round to it.
@@BischBaschBosch Just ordered one now so I’m expecting good things! 🙂 This is the clip where the guy’s talking about the bevel cut. Prob got his facts wrong maybe: ua-cam.com/video/-ssR59iPJYo/v-deo.html
@@lifeshort Nice one. Nah, he's not got his facts wrong. It is supposed to cut on the line. My buddies one cuts on the line - even with my rails - but mine misses it by about 1mm. No idea why. Like I say, I keep meaning to have a look in case I'm missing something obvious. Be interested to know if yours cuts on the line or not.
Hi Stu. Sorry to pop up in an old vids comments - couldn't see a way to message you privately. Had the Mafell on loan for a little while (video just out now) and I get a much bigger gap with the scoring cut than you seem to; just wondering if it's changed at all over time? I'm getting reports from guys who say theirs is perfect, just about equal with the ones that say theirs also has the ~0.3mm gap. Perfect cut in cheap & nasty MFC (not the good stuff) but gappy as anything. 🤷♂️ Cheers, P 👍ps email me through the 'about' section if you prefer to keep it private.
Alright Peter. If you're on FB you can always contact on there if you prefer (still bbb on there). Just watched you vid. Nicely done as always mate. Yeah, that was one hell of a gap you got there. Certainly more than I get with mine. Why that would be I couldn't say. Can't see that the material would make much difference. Real puzzle. The offset is controlled by a washer machined to be a fraction thicker at the bottom than at the top I believe. Perhaps manufacturing inconsistencies could mean some are a fraction different than others, meaning a more noticeable gap for some? I agree that it would be useful to be able to by pass sometimes. Properly busy at the minute but I'll try and have another look to see what happens changing a few things round.
Bisch Basch Bosch Thanks Stu. Ah, OK - I never think about Facebook tbh, not a platform I really use, but thanks. Yes, it’s a bit of a headscratcher, and as you say, pre-determined at manufacture. But I’m getting more than a few guys telling me theirs is the same, so it doesn’t seem to be a one-off. Odd. Anyway, good to hear you keeping busy - back at it myself this week - so don’t worry about messing about with the saw when you should be earning, lol! Cheers, Peter. 👍👍
Surely the point of the scoring cut is to go in the other direction, ie from back to front, then complete the cut in the normal way. The shallow cut means there's little danger of the climb cut causing the saw to lose control. The scoring blade on a panel saw rotates in the opposite direction to the main blade and that's what produces the clean top edge.
True that the score blade is the other way on panel saws. Indeed, before having this saw I had the Bosch which didn't have the score function, I used to set the blade to a shallow pass first and run it backwards. Then full depth forward. Results were good. However, The score function on the mafell leaves a perfect edge when run forward. You could run it backward if you preferred for the score cut. The point is really is that having the function built in, whichever direction you run the score pass, it's quick and easy with this saw. You don't need to set the depth twice.
Yeah, a few people say that bud. I had the Bosch GKT before this which, although made for them by Mafell, did have a front handle. Personally, I never used the front handle on the Bosch and so don't miss it on the Mafell. The Mafell does have a thumb rest on the front left of the base. This I use from time to time. In the same manner, I used to rest on the front left corner of the base of the Bosch too. One handed tool mostly but depends how you work and what's best for you I guess.
I did try the festools before getting the Mafells I have. My preference is Mafell. I like the quick blade change. Motor power is good. I love the score function (though some dont). Feels well built and more wieldy the the Festool. Plus the base gives you a choice of rails. All subjective though I guess. If you can try or at least hold each before you buy, all the better. My vacs are Bosch
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka I've got a GAS 20L and a GAS 35M. The 35 is very good and the one I take out to jobs most The 20 has proved a reliable thing ( used for genuine wet and dry use, rubble, plaster, cement etc) for the money. Never struggled but is basic, only fills bags half way and doesn't stay on a second or 2 after turning off power tools to clear the hose. When/if these die, I'll probably get Festool vacs tbh. If not just for the hose storage and accessories.
I find the saw pretty accurate. It has adjustment in the base to dial in accuracy. There are too many variables with a saw of this type and guide rail to say you can consistently get to within 1/10th degree accuracy. For example, the guide rails themselves, whichever brand, have anti-slip strips underneath (made of foam in the case of Festool etc, rubber in the case of Bosch/Mafell). These can compress a little depending on the load the saw is under and how much user weight is applied. That's just 1 variable. If you want repeatable accuracy to within 1/10th degree, you're better off cutting your material with a panel saw, or finding someone who has one and asking them to cut it for you.
Thank you! A short while after doing this video I did get a new camera. Has a macro lens for close ups and everything. I still don't know what I'm doing with it but, it's getting a little better.
@@BischBaschBosch get yourself some tickets mate. I win the DeWalt cordless router and Marples chisels set in a separate competition in the same live draw. I'm buzzing 😀
I use the Mafell fitment blades from Key Blades & Fixings. I quite like them. They have the exact same dimensions as original Mafell blades. They also do Festool fitment blades too.
The best saw of its type out there doesn't mean perfect bud. I've had the fortune using nearly every premium plunge saw through work. The Mafell is the one I settled on. It is - like the other premium brands - supposed to cut on the same line at 45. But, like the other brands, some come out of the factory not doing so. 🤷♂️ The Mafell does have the benefit of everything being adjustable though. It's unique in that respect (one if the reasons it's the best). I have figured out what the problem is and will hopefully have a video up soon about correcting it. Only reason I didn't do it sooner is I need to bevel cut so infrequently, it's not an issue. A couple of subscribers asking about it made me bother looking into the issue.
@@BischBaschBosch 👍 I wasn’t having a go just wading my way through reviews trying to make my mind up and there’s always something.. Having seen your video I did some research and you seem to be right, there seems to be a fault coming out the factory that others have managed to fix or get them to fix. Maybe they’ve sorted on newer ones 🤷. Anyway thanks for the response. I think I may take the plunge (sorry).
@@jonathankeenan5163 No salt mate😁 . Thing is, at this price point, expecting your kit bang on from the factory shouldn't be too much to ask. Not always the case unfortunately. Don't think you'll be disappointed if you get one. Gives a beautiful edge on laminates thanks to the score cut. A breeze to change blades when you build a collection for different stuff. Lots of adjustability to dial in if needed. Unmatched dust collection. All that. If buying new, do check the score offset (see my vid on that) and the bevel cut line. If it's not right, don't settle, get it swapped or looked at. Spoiler for the bevel fix - 4 washers under the bevel mounts = perfect bevel cut line. Like I say, I'll have a vid up covering the fix in a week or 2. It's in the cue.👍
Those benchdogs look brilliant and seemed to fit the Bosch tracks accurately! Do you have the part numbers for them on the website you mentioned? It looks like the ship to the US as well! Excellent video! Thanks!
Thanks Kiran. I find the fit very good. Find the link for the guide rail dogs below. Be sure to select the version you want (eg Bosch) before adding to basket. I highly recommend buying the collars for the dogs too for setting and holding height (second link). You can use my BBBYT code at the checkout for an extra 5% off. All the best. benchdogs.co.uk/collections/bench-dogs/products/guide-rail-dogs-grooved-festool-makita-triton?ref=nqpous8w5eme benchdogs.co.uk/collections/bench-dogs/products/b-collar?ref=nqpous8w5eme
Thanks Cam. I know that Timberwolf in the US is the Mafell supplier to N.America. Not sure what the prices are like though. To be honest, the Makita plunge saw is very good and reasonably priced for pros and hobbiests alike. It has the score function like the Mafell, good power and an anti-tip mechanism for bevel cuts.
That's all true .. I run a battery Makita cutting mostly sheet MDF and kitchen worktops and rarely change blades for materials the only thing I miss is the easy blade height adjustment. It's a fiddly thumb screw but you soon adapt.. having said that the mafell seems to be the gold standard right now if you need all its feature set.. I'd say it's decent value.
Cuprex, bobinage du moteur avec des fils de cuivre de plus gros diamètre. On ne ressent rien de spécial si ce n'est que la machine souffre moins à chaque coupe.. Le moteur se fatigue beaucoup moins, chauffe moins, l'attaque du bois est plus ferme, des coupes plus propres et une durée de vie du moteur rallongée .. Pas étonnant que Mafell à beaucoup de copyright sur les mécanismes festool, hilti, bosch... Etc etc more torque for the same watts..
Interesting, thanks. As I say in the video, that's what I notice most - that the motor feels like it provides an effortless cut. Match it with a good blade and even through hard woods at full depth, it makes easy work of the cut.
Sure. A good blade can help improve budget saws greatly. If you have all 3 of those brands, you should do a comparison video. It'd be popular no doubt.
I bought this saw because I believed the hype, sold my lovely Festool TS55EQ (Older version - a little more solid than the new one). I made a big mistake, the spring for the plunge on the Mafell doesn't ride very smooth and jerks a little, the Festool is so smooth. Also when on the rail it doesn't ride as smooth as the Festool because the Festool has anti friction strips built into the rail to make the saw glide on the rail. I didn't like the safety latch for the switch either, I found it uncomfortable compared to the Festool. The only weak point with festool is the rubber splinter guard on the rail, the glue can fail and the rubber comes loose, they could improve the joining of the rails also. I couldn't wait to sell the Mafell, also if you notice they are easy enough to pick up second hand. I think the Bosch is a better saw, the only thing I don't like about it is there doesn't seem to be any adjusting screws built into the base of the saw in case it needs adjusting for cutting 90 degrees, I can't understand why they didn't do this, even basic circular saws have this. The plunge is much smoother on the Bosch and also you have a front handle, some people like a front handle.
The Mafell glides on its rails just fine. If there's debris causing a little friction, a simple wipe down with a wonder wipe sorts that out. The Mafell and the Bosch use the exact same plunge mechanism including spring, handle release and depth gauge. In that sense, they operate about the same in terms of ease of plunge. I had the Bosch a few years ago before the Mafell. Both the Bosch and Mafell have a small grub screw below the -1 degree button on the base for setting/adjusting 90/0 degrees. They also have screws for adjusting the blade angle to set it perfectly parallel to the guide rail slot. Those combined with the mafells micro depth adjust for a true zero make it the most adjustable plunge saw on the market. In terms of second hand plunge saws - on eBay for example - there's always plenty of ts55's. Probably more than any other. Could be many reasons for this. Yes, there's always a handful of MT55's on there too but, quite often 110v. In the UK, most people on site are going cordless where they can. Could be a big reason why people are getting rid of their corded plunge saws. The corded Mafells have a far superior motor to the Festool. Just a cursory listen on start up makes this plainly obvious, let alone using it ripping through 50mm material. The handle is very much personal preference. I do about 99% of my cuts just using one hand so the adsense of additional handle doesn't bother me at all. Lastly, the Mafell just feels like a better built machine than either the Bosch or festool. Largely down to the blade cover, but still. I could go on but mist is covered in the vid. Needless to say we disagree.
I didn't say the Mafell doesn't glide on the rail well, its just not anything as smooth as the Festool, you can definitely feel a bit of resistance when you push it on the rail, I have heard others complain the rail moves if its not clamped, you shouldn't always need to clamp in certain situations. I was in a shop recently to look at the Bosch and the the plunge spring is designed differently, they put a bend in the plastic guide for the spring which gives it a smooth jerk free plunge. I also looked it over to see if there was a grub screw in the base in case the saw needed adjustment and I couldn't see one but I'll go back and check again but I'm fairly sure it doesn't have it, I looked at the saw and checked it very well. I had the dowel machine (DD40) by Mafell too and got rid of it, the machine's rails became tight if I used it without dust extraction, not all times do I want to use a hoover. I've never had that problem with biscuit jointers I've used with a dust bag, the machine always run smooth on the rails. The Festool's motor is smaller but if you use it for what it was intended for and not abuse it, it does just fine. The older TS55EQ is a great machine, I'm not too keen on the new model.
@DEXTER941 not to press the issue but like I said, the Bosch and Mafell share the same plunge mech, spring and all. Mafell make the GKT for Bosch and while there are many differences, the overall plunge and bevel mech is the same. At 4:07 In my vid where I have the base of the saw showing you can see the 2 small grub screws (immediately above left and above right from the square hole in the base) that set 90 degrees. They ARE there. That you couldn't find them is your issue, not the saws. Now you know they're there and where they are, probably best to leave that one go. I tend to use rail dogs or clamps for a lit of cuts, especially smaller ones. If the rails move, it's more to do with the Bosch/mafell rails have very slim rubber strips underneath, which when dusty, don't offer much grip. Less of an issue over a longer length. The festool pattern rails have much larger foam anti slip strips under rail. For me, ease of connectivity is more important. For this, the bosch/mafell rails are superior. It's fine for you to prefer the Festool - old or or new. Your comments do read like you've never actually used the Mafell though.
A bit of arrogance creeping through with those comments. Yes the Mafell saw has the grub screws in the base, after all I had the saw. I was talking about the Bosch saw not having the grub screws, I examined it in the tool shop and couldn't find them, its designed differently but I'll look again to satisfy you and me but I'm 99% sure it doesn't have them. As for the plunge spring, I just told you its a different design, Bosch put a bend in the plastic guide for the spring to make it a smoother plunge. Yes there is a collaboration between Bosch and Mafell on this saw, similar design for sure but I don't believe Bosch would put their name on the saw and have Mafell make it for them. Bosch are around a long time and well know how to make power tools, show me some proof that Mafell make the saw for Bosch. I know loads of people love the Mafell but I didn't like it. I agree I like the concept the way Mafell joins the rails and the way the splinter rubber attaches but I'm talking about the saw alone. I think the Mafell has some flaws too which is why I got rid of it and I'd take my Festool TS55EQ back in a heartbeat.
![Big Decision: Festool or Mafell? [video #400]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5kqui1b0SbU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Big Decision: Festool or Mafell? [video #400]](/img/tr.png)
As an update, I now have a video up demonstrating how to fix the saw so it will cut on the same line at 45 degrees as at zero - as Mafell claim it should. See here - ua-cam.com/video/2Mzkk5O9e58/v-deo.html
Very interesting thanks. I had the pleasure of working alongside a few German carpenters this summer, who used the he Maffell kss400 and its bigger sister to great effect, ripping along 4Ms of 3x3 with out breaking a sweat. I was particularly impressed with the depth adjustment on the kss400, which could be done with one hand whilst holding the saw half way up vertical 2M cut, with no effort.
Cheers Ross. Can well believe it. The whole "K" range of saws is hard to fault tbh. Really nicely powered and featured. That and German carpenters know their stuff!
Hi Malcolm thanks for a great little video, had mine about 2 weeks and have not had much need to use it much since it arrived ( tipacle ) the only time I have used it was to cut some high gloss mdf panels for a fitted kitchen, that before it arrived I was having to do the cut a few mm long and then cut them back with the router. Using the score cut, on an off cut, and then the full death cut, it gave totally perfect finish with no paint chips at all.
I got to say that I learnt more from watching your video about the saw, than I did from the useless instruction leaflet that came with the saw, for what it cost I though it would have been the size of war and peace! Even the info about removing the plastic infills on the base of the saw, so as to be able to use the F'###'l track.
Thanks once again, keep then vids coming!
Thanks for the great comments Martin. Sometimes the handbooks can be really disappointing. Means we're left trying to figure most of it out on the fly. Makes it worthwhile to here some folks find the vids helpful. Thank you.
Oh and the names Stew btw, not Malcolm.😉
@@BischBaschBosch What the heck was I looking at when I clicked the "about channel button" old age creeping on
@@martinmackett2758 ahh...I see where you got "Malcolm" from now. Those were just links to other folks/sites when I first started the channel. I need to update that. Thanks for the reminder.
@@BischBaschBosch good evening,
I am new and late to the track saw Arena and am used to using my tools in dimly lit construction settings and they work well because they all have lights.
Does the battery power version have any lights?
Does the Bosch Batteries fit the Mafell saw?
Does this saw have the most powerful motor when compared to the other cordless competitors?
I want to cry once and buy once what do you recommend?
Thoughtful and unique content. I really appreciate your videos !
A very in depth review, answered a lot of my questions, Thanks.
That's great Jack, thanks. Your question about the bevel along with others from people on Facebook and forums etc were what spurred me into making the vid. So thanks to you too. All the best.
Great Video! I just bought the Festool, it is the better saw in my opinion (offset on the score function, missing handle, missing wedge, especially with the scoring funtion being the main argument pro Mafell).
I love your style, clear and straight to the point. Creates a special kind of humor i like.
Does it do this or that ? : your answer: No.. Yes .. no bla bla bla !!
Great .
Thanks very much. Don't think you'll be disappointed with the Festool. Used a colleagues many times. Great saw. For me, the Mafell is still the benchmark plunge saw though. The offset on the score is controversial but, on laminates, it gives a perfect cut line every single time without giving it any thought, or taking measures to avoid chipping. The power delivery, build quality and adjustability is also pretty unmatched, which for the variety of work I do has proved essential.
The missing riving knife and handle are down to preference and I totally get it if people prefer these features. I've never suffered a kickback with this saw after 3 years of using it. The trick is (as with all circular/plunge saws tbh) to let the motor ramp up to speed before committing to a cut/plunge, don't over stretch (which can cause you to twist the saw) or force the saw. I did briefly have the Bosch plunge saw before this one that had the handle. Honestly never used it and if I used my other hand, instinctively put it on the base - as I do with the Mafell.
Most of these things are very much down to the way you work though and therefore subjective. In general, I've found plunge saws to be the one area where pretty much all the major manufacturers offer very decent saws. We're spoilt for choice really.
Appreciate your comments Thariel. Both about why you prefer the Festool and about the Vid.
Great thoughtful review.. envying that depth stop arrangement and the bevel lock first rate.
A great demo, think you covered just about everything I have this saw with Mafell tracks I used a Festool a few times but for me this is a far superior saw and rail system. As for some comments about it not sliding on the track smoothly, mine is just a dream to use and a superb cut. Know it’s expensive but for me it the best on the market. I also have the Mafell jigsaw was never really a fan of jigsaws due to there inability to cut at 90 degrees accurately, but this again is a dream to use and I find you can even cut .5 of a millimetre off and the blade still stays true. It fits on there track if required, for me Mafell is head and shoulders above what’s on the market at present, the Dogs 👍
Thanks Kieran. Yeah, I think Mafell is possibly the only brand I've bought from and not been disappointed. It's very good kit.
Great review. i have the bosch and can see the advantages the mafell has over it ! I set the blade about 2-3mm deep and run the saw backwards to score ply and the like. works great.
Cheers o bez. Yeh, used to do the shallow run back on my old saws. Works quite nice on laminates too. Good technique but you need to know what you're doing. The Bosch GKT is a great saw. It's the one I used to have. The big brands are all pretty close if people were honest. All very good. I don't regret buying the Mafell though. V Nice machine.
Great video, I've just recently bought the mt55 and I wish I'd done it years ago, it's such a great bit of kit. Ive got the guide rail to go with it and bought a ripping blade and also a blade for composite materials like vinyl flooring which is excellent by the way. The ripping blade working with the guide rail is an absolute pleasure, I don't think I'll be using the table saw much now. I did notice when cutting formica sheeting (shower paneling) on 45 degrees it did chip(not alot) even after using the scoring function, that my only gripe but I'm probably doing something wrong with the set up.
Thanks mate. So the score function is no more than a washer, machined 1/10mm thinner one side than the other. This means the first 3mm of cut is exactly at the anti splinter, then steps slightly (1/10mm) away cutting right through. Sometimes, the saw will be slightly away from the anti splinter when beveled and, as such, can't make best use of the anti-splinter for best cut. I hope you get what I mean. I have a video where I show how I adjusted my saw so it cuts on exactly the same line at 0 as at 45 degrees. If you do bevels on laminate regularly, could be worth a watch.👍
@@BischBaschBosch I watched it after I commented here, I'll certainly give it a bash. Thanks
@@highlandhillwalkin Nice one. Good luck mate. Worked for me so 🤞👍
I wish all review videos were as concise and detailed as this. Thank you for not padding this with "like and subscribe" guff and "wassup guys" intros. For this I have liked and subscribed.
Cheers
Thanks for that. Appreciated 👍
Thanks. Much better than the instructions that came with it. I must be getting old. Writing too small and hard to find the English section. Can't wait to get cutting. Cheers
😂 Yeah, I've joined the ranks of moving anything with writing closer and further away in an attempt to read it. Sure you'll love the saw mate. Mines been an absolute workhorse.
Excellent video with all the information I was looking for. I use a brilliant old Mafell KSP 55 (20 Yo) with the Bosch guide rails and because of the budget was going to upgrade to a Bosch GKT 55, but now... MT55cc mmmmm....
Thanks Kevin. I actually had the Bosch GKT before the Mafell. Great saw but the adjustability and quick blade change on the Mafell really appealed and have proved their worth tbh.
Dumb question what would you use the neg 1 deg. bevel for? I'm having a brain fart and I can't think when I would ever use that. ;^)
Hey Stuart, better to ask a question you think is dumb than to think you already know and look dumb to everyone else! Never a dumb question in that sense. So generally, you might use 1 degree of bevel (undercut) on a cut to ensure two faces meet perfectly. The material that is hidden will have a slight gap so as to not hold a joint open. Quite common practice on tenon shoulders or dovetails. Imagine a t-lap joint, where the lap in the middle of the t-section you wanted to have undercut shoulders. Working from right to left, passing the workpiece under this saw, your first cut for the shoulder would use the -1 degree function to give it an undercut. As you passed the workpiece under the saw to cut the opposite shoulder, you'd use +1 degrees. This isn't to say laps joints need undercutting necessarily but hopefully serves as an example where you might use a -1 over a +1 degree bevel cut.
@@BischBaschBosch Thanks for the reply. I guess I was fixated on cutting sheet goods not thinking of other applications.
@@stuartcairnie9985 Ha. Sheet goods is where plunge/rail saws excel tbh. I only started using mine for some joinery - shoulders etc - after building my bench that makes this possible. Before that it was all sheet rips and sink cutouts. Go back a year or so, I'd have probably asked the same question as you.
The mafell is not available in Australia. Although from USA it can be imported. The tax and shipping is very expensive thought. Around $280 usd.
I'm interested in the cordless version. I'm quite impressed with the guide rail system. Since I have the festool and did own the festool cordless plunge saw,
Looking at a single battery with say the metabo battery will be desirable.
Although is there much difference between the festool plunge saw and the mafell?
I have noted the mafell is a little better. Is the mafell brushed or brushless. The festool I believe is brushed.
Hi Ronald. The cordless Mafell (MT55 18M BL) is brushless. The Mafell does have more features than the Festool, which if you do a variety of work, could be seen as making it a better saw. The micro adjust, score function, one knob bevel, completely enclosed blade and quick blade change are all features I find beneficial. The Mafell also feels very well built compared to other brands. With both the corded and cordless, I'd say the motor sounds and feels more effortless than the Festool, especially on thicker stock and/or hardwoods. Of course, whatever saw you buy, this can be helped with correct blade choice for the task. Despite sounding a bit ropey (in my view), Festool ts55 have proved long lived though. With the Mafell, you still have the option of buying into the festool rail and accessory system if you wish as the Mafell has a slot for those rails. Having used a few over the years now, my view is the Mafell is the benchmark currently.
I bit the bullet and bought the saw over a year and a 1/2 very impressed with it The best thing about the saw is the rails the connections are so accurate I never double check
@@BischBaschBoschgood evening, can you explain why Mafell Jigsaw does not have a light and a battery?
@@rickyperkins232 I don't know for certain but, best guess is that barrel grip jigsaws like the mafell are almost always used upside down in Germany so, I guess mafell didn't see a light as necessary. It doesn't have a battery as mafell only make a corded jigsaw presently. Originally, I imagine this was due to the mafell needing more power than could be reliably delivered by old batteries, to push a 3mm wide cunex blade through full depth hardwood. Battery tech and capacity has moved on so I'm pretty sure we'll see a cordless mafell jigsaw soon.
Thanks for the helpful videos. In your view, do you think you can all but eliminate using a table saw with a mafell plunge saw? would love to see a video on this.
Cheers Si. Good question. You can certainly set yourself up to live without a table saw with a decent plunge saw, rail and table system. There are some instances where a table saw is better - or at least easier - not least ripping.
@@BischBaschBosch Thank you. I have both a mafell plunge saw and a table saw. I'm not a lover of the table saw due to the dust and scary blade. I'm looking at investing in an MFT table style system with the view of reducing my dependency on the table and mitre saw. I know Peter Millard manages quite well with just and mft and Plunge saw, but was after additional opinions.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
@@Simon-Smith. No problem mate. I would say it depends what you work with. Peter works a lot with sheet materials where this set up excels. For solid woods, the table saw has it's uses. All the best
@@BischBaschBosch Much appreciated. ;)
cracking vid, first time finding your channel and instant like and sub, really informative and cuts to the chase on many things other creators don't cover, 10/10. now to look through the rest of your content :D
Hey, thanks CW. Appreciate that. Hope you find some interesting stuff on the channel.👍
Thanks for the vids. Very helpful. If you had to it over again, would you chose the cordless or stay corded?
Thanks Nathan and good question. The plunge saw in particular is something I always use extraction with so I'm not too bothered about the cord. If I were still working on large commercial sites I'd opt for the cordless but I mainly do smaller private work now so again, happy with corded. Very much depends how you work I think.
Excellent video - thank you. It compensates for the buggar all you get from the manufacturer!
Thanks man. Yeah, I think mafell in particular could up their game demoing and publicising their tools and features. They're only a tiny company but still.🤷♂️
Hi just got my saw and love it do you have a video on how the mico adjustments are it wobbles slightly on the rail and i know the knobs front and back can adjust them?
Hi Kieth. I haven't done a video on adjustments (good idea though). Yeah, the 2 knobs on the base can be adjusted to take up any slack between the saw base and the rail.
Bisch Basch Bosch thanks managed to fiddle and got it working a dream lovely cut had to tweak the depth gauge and fine tune but all good. Now I need to work out some hinge system for my standard wood table and invest in the small bench dogs shame it over hangs really
Excellent description / review -- on the point with good tips. I enjoy your channel. Thanks!
Much appreciated! Thanks Nick Google.
Nice vid. I have the same saw and when I bought it from a Mafell salesman. They said that the scoring switch only effected the 3mm depth and that the blade would always move that 10th gradually as you plunged to full depth. Creating a slight bevel if plunging into material. So to negate that, he recommended getting into the habit of plunging full depth before entering cut and releasing after you've exited.... if you know what mean. Almost a deal breaker but love it all the same. I notice you do this though
Cheers Jesse. That's interesting, I didn't know that. It's just from using the saw over time I've found better cut quality and fit from plunging full depth before the cut works best.
It's the washer in the pivot that once it plunges past a few mm shifts the blade over 0.1mm. It is more of a defined step rather than an angle and can be seen and felt.You can test this if you slowly plunge the saw, there's a slight resistance after a few mm, watch the gap between the washers at the pivot point. As you plunge past a few mm they move apart slightly as one of the washers has a ridge or something on it to move the blade. So yeah if cutting non-laminates it is best to do the plunge past this point before entering the material to avoid the tiny step created by the score followed by full depth plunge at the start of your entry.
If using laminates and the 0.1mm is a problem either due to the increased glue line or jointing two boards then a quick way to remove it is to run a small bearing guided flush trim bit on a router with the bearing running along the score cut area. This quickly solves any problems and is a lot quicker than when I've used my Dewalt track saw and had to use the router to remove 1 or 2mm to get rid of the chips caused by the blade exiting the score cut!
Another thing to notes is that even panel saws have the scoring blade kerf thicker than the main blade. Even on the best this seems to created a kerf 0.05mm wider on each side of the main cut and on older saws seems to be anything up to 0.2mm.
@@simonh73 Great info Simon thanks. Just tested what you said and you're right. I can feel a slight resistance to the plunge after a few mm when pushed slowly down. Never noticed that before.
@@BischBaschBosch For anyone who's really geeky here's the Mafell patent description and the image that shows the design of bearing and description of how it works:
See image at: patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/a4/fe/cf/7e85c080cac1bf/imgf0003.png
The FIGS. 3A and 3B represent the bearing portion 25 in more detail. On the bearing block 31 of the base member 13 and the bearing plate 35 is a base part-side control surface 27 and a machine part-side control surface 29 is formed, which slide against each other and thereby cooperate in a pivoting of the machine part 15. It can be seen that the control surfaces 27, 29 are not flat, but that in the base part-side control surface 27, a cam 37 and in the machine part-side control surface 29, a recess 39 is formed. According to the pivot position of the machine part 15 of the cam 37 is in engagement with the recess 39 or disengaged. When the cam 37 according to Fig. 3A is engaged with the recess 39, the machine part 15 is in the unset position. When the cam 37 according to Fig. 3B moved out of engagement with the recess 39, the machine part 15 is pressed against the spring bias in the direction of the bearing portion 23, resulting in a transverse offset of the machine part 15 results in Fig. 3B denoted by D. The cam 37 and the recess 39 are matched to one another in such a way that, starting from the basic position of the machine part 15, they engage until reaching the predetermined cutting depth and only disengage when the predetermined cutting depth is exceeded. In the FIGS. 3A and 3B shown control surfaces 27, 29 provide essentially only two states, which correspond to no transverse offset and a maximum transverse offset D. However, the cam 37 and the recess 39 have a smooth running profile to allow an optimized sliding movement in the transition from the unset to the staggered state.
Patent good until 2028 so don't expect to see it elsewhere anytime soon unless other manufacturers can find a different way of doing it.
Great info, that explains the slight angle at the top of the cuts then when plunging. Being used to a mitre saw, I always score the top then plunge through, this habit is obviously best avoided with the mafell.
thanks for the video, what are the in-line power connectors you use?
Cheers. They're Neutrik Powercon true1 Top connectors. Did a video on them with links in description here: ua-cam.com/video/jnQPcGuLKzk/v-deo.html
Good rundown! Mafell...only thing I know about them is their jigsaw is the best of the best! I want it....lol
Thanks mate. Their jigsaw is phenomenal. Very planted. Very powerful. The only downside for some they still don't yet make a cordless version of it. They're arguably the king of saws.
Great review. What’s the dust extraction connector you’re using?
Thanks Ian. Just the one that comes with the Bosch vac with a hose wrap on it.
Sorry if I missed you saying but do all the Bosch rails work with the mafell? Are you missing out on anything by using the Bosch rails or are they exactly the same?
They're exactly the same bud. I have it from an official Mafell dealer that the rails are actually made by Mafell for Bosch but bosch ones are a little cheaper as, being such a huge company, they can subsidise the cost. Only difference is branding. More rail types and accessories for the Bosch ones - 32mm hole system for example.
@@BischBaschBosch thanks mate. I'll be picking up the mafell I reckon. Time to upgrade from my erbauer
It's a good saw bud. Sure you'll like it if you plump for one.👍
Bought this saw a couple of months ago it's streets ahead of festool no brag just fact. Thanks for sharing your info . Btw what kind of a plug it did u put on it?
Thanks mate. I agree, it's not quite the perfect saw but arguably the best out there. They're Neutrik PowerCon plugs.
Bisch Basch Bosch was going to ask the same. I too bought this saw and absolutely love it. Btw, what’s the sock thingy around your extraction hose that shrouds the cable?
Hi what is the blade you’re using to cut the laminate gives great cuts , I’ve just bought one of these and can’t wait to use it .
Think I was using the Keyblades triple chip on the laminate bud. 👍
Cheers
Forgot to say that i use the dust bag off my 18v dewalt planer works great for smaller jobs instead of fighting with the festool hose!
Good evening all.
Loving the videos - Going to go crazy on Bangood for funky red set squares & splash the cash over at bench dogs UK.
I did try to register on the Bosch forum however they are not accepting new registrations :-(
Scenario
Currently building a website & e-commerce platform. As a funky fresh startup the intent is to design, build & promote minimalistic furniture design made from mdf. Jointing shall be via a Lamello Zeta P2 (still have not seen one in real life)!
Looking for a plunge saw to provide the best cut in mdf. The new saw shall probably have a specific mdf blade from the get go - if recommended?
Question
Is the Mafell really worth the extra £200 over the Bosch. Naturally if the business is a success the Mafell is a no brainer but £200 is still £200 & would probably take the chunk out of a router purchase too.
Does the Mafell make a better, cleaner, more precise cut than the Bosch & is a specific pdf blade worth the wedge Mr Bisch Bash Bosch?
Hello Jack. Firstly, can't understand why u can't register on the bosch forum. If u have bosch tools and registered for warranty, try a different email address. That's what I had to do.
I've been using the red aly stuff from banggood for a while now. It's spot on. Can't fault it, especially for the money.
On plunge saws, I had the Bosch GKT. Found it an excellent plunge saw. Plenty of power, smart motor electronics and great rails...particularly on long sheets where u might want to join 2.
I ended up with the Mafell because I work with such a range of materials. From hardwood, to laminates, to fibre cement. As such, the ease of blade change, micro adjust and score function was worth the extra ££'s.
If you're going to be predominantly working in mdf, the Bosch will be perfectly decent. My experience with mdf, I tend to favour blades with less teeth. Say 32 rather than 48 find there's less chance of burn and any breakout. Particularly on thick stuff or cutting more than 1 sheet at a time.
My favourite blades right now are those from Keyblades & Fixings. Their rip blades and triple chip (for laminates) are simply superior in cut quality. If you go for a Bosch GKT, their Mafell spec blades are also for the Bosch.
Hope this helps and has covered everything.
@@BischBaschBosch Good afternoon Mr Bisch Basch Bosch,
Thank you for the swift reply yesterday. Unfortunately I could not reply rapidly. The Mrs was sat next to me using the MacBook to catch up on dairy week - GBBO!
Bosch forum.
No idea either as an invitation email was sent informing that registration was successful?
Banggood
Guess Im watching (as we speak) your red Banggood video for a third or is it fourth time?
Bosch GKT. / Mafell
There were 2 Mafell on amazon.de second hand & cheap as chips. You know what they say “if it sounds too good to be true…”
Looks like the hard earn bread is being dropped down on the Bosch GKT to save a crumb or two. Maybe need to also identify a hose connector for the Festool SYS vacuum.
Blades
Shall investigate this
Again thank you kind Sir.
@@jackspectre4302 The rubber powertool adaptor on the Bosch vacs is good for 22/35mm. Festool do similar ones. Try the Festool 768135 Reducing Sleeve (27/36mm) or the Festool RMD36/27-AS Reducing Sleeve (27/36). These should be good for fitting into or over most power tool exhausts.
Apologies for the the late thank you on answering the bevel question, much appreciated juggling the camera👍
😁 my pleasure.👍
@@BischBaschBosch if I may ask, do you think taken into account 1.5mm blade/splinterguard difference. Is there enough splinterguard when new to allow trimming at 45 rather then 90. Perhaps having one rail marked for 45 only? My festool cuts on splinterguard accurate but when i see the joining of the mafell/bosch rails makes me think.
Nice review. This led me to take the plunge and buy one for myself. I have a feeling that something is wrong with mine tho. When i try to plunge the saw it feels smooth until about 12mm depth and then it stops and needs more force to push the blade further down. After that extra push the operation is smooth and easy again until full depth. It looks to me as the pivot is moving sideways just as the stop accurs. Not sure how to explain it other than its not a smooth action from start to full depth. Is this how the Mafell MT55cc should work? Or did i get a faulty machine? I have not plugged in the machine and used it yet so i can verify if the stop will affect the final cut or not. I have emailed Mafell regarding this but the answer is still pending.
Thanks sova jaja. It shouldn't be stopping anywhere on the plunge (except where you've set depth of course). Perhaps double check the score cut switch is fully switched to off. It is literally just a stop so if not fully off, there's a chance it might be catching as you plunge. If it's not that, it might be worth ringing your dealer/supplier. The plunge spring can be stiff on the mafell compared to some but it shouldnt be stopping or deflecting a plunge. Check the spring (between the base and blade housing) isnt catching. It might need exchanging. As always, make sure you've registered it online for the 3 year warranty.
@@BischBaschBosch Thanks for the swift reply. Its not stopping per se its just getting harder to plunge deeper than 12mm and after applying more force it is easy and smooth until full depth. I thought it had to do with the spring but the issue is still there even after removing the spring so i assume the problem is at the pivot point. I can even see the pivot moving sideways as the ”stop” accurs. If its not ment to be i will have to send it in to be fixed. I did register for the 3 year warranty. Too bad when its brand new and i just want to go ahead and use it.
@@sovajaja1718 That doesn't sound right at all. Yeah, when you buy a new tool, especially at this price point, you should expect to just unbox and go. Get it looked at or exchanged bud.👍
Now I received this saw for the test. In my GKT, an incision is added. And my decision on the notch, in my opinion, is much more convenient to work with. I do not understand why they made an offset without the ability to disable this function. In any case, pushing the lever for the notch and pushing it again is seriously stressing me out. In general, a strange situation.
When working with chipboard and similar materials, you do not get a clean cut. You need to work with disks that are no better than in Bosch. And you get all this for twice the price of Bosch. The mechanization of the drive tilt is excellent.
The ability to clean the dust removal area is also an advantage when working with fibrous materials or long chips.
The score function with the offset has always been controversial. Some people love it, some hate it. I like it but agree with you. It would be better if you could turn the offset on/off.
All the other features of the mafell - ease of blade change, superb dust extraction and micro adjust - still set it apart from other plunge saws. For me, it's still the best saw out there.👍
see you're using bosch rails here, any point to using the mafell equivalent? thanks
I've got a Mafell rail too but there's no difference. They're both made by Mafell but Bosch subsidise theirs so they're a little bit cheaper.
Just got this saw. I always cut from the back so face is perfect everytime. Surely all pros do this?!
That's the standard way, yeah. Can give you chip out on the back face though due to the up cut. Not always an issue on a back face but the idea of the score cut is both faces perfect. Also handy for clean sink cut outs and whatnot too.👍
Great video, i have just purchased the mt55, any videos on how to set up for the first time? Cutting the splinter guard? Instructions with the saw aren't very helpful.
Thanks
Nice one Carl. I'm sure you'll love it. It should be good to go but worth checking the blade is square to the base. There is a little adjustment on the bevel marker if it's slightly out. As shown in the vid above, set your depth marker to off-rail at zero. With the saw on a flat surface, check the blades is just touching it. If it isn't, use the micro adjust to dial in a true zero. I did a video on the anti-splinter strip. Different saw but same deal. Put the rail on a sheet materiel you don't mind scoring, supporting the whole rail if poss. Set the saw to 5mm depth on-rail. Cut along the length in one smooth pass if you can for best results. Good this helps. ua-cam.com/video/NZyqjUdR5mk/v-deo.html
@@BischBaschBosch thank you for the reply and info. Will be setting it all up tomorrow 🙂
@@carlryan5351 👍
This is gold. Thanks.
Hi Bisch Basch Bosch, is the offset in the bevel mode consistent across the whole cut? Thank you.
Hi mate. It is on mine. Smidge under 1.5mm. There shouldn't be any offset. It's supposed to cut on the same line as at 90/0 degrees. It can be reset apparently. It's recommended to send it to mafell but think I'll have a look at it myself before that. Just not found it enough of an issue to bother with but I'll look into it and share the results here.👍
I have seen the review with the scoring cut that people have complained about , if that was the only query with me buying this saw , could i just set the machine to plunge down 3mm and avoid using the scoring option , would it plunge straight or would it use the washer thing where it adjusts angle of the blade ? i have never owned or used one of these so forgive my lack of knowledge . Thanks
Hi Mark. The scoring function isn't something you can turn on/off. It works by way of a washer 0.1mm thinner at the top than bottom. This is what creates the step out when you plunge past 3mm (on rail). The switch is literally just a stop to limit the score depth to 3mm regardless of your main depth setting. I get absolutely no adverse affect using the score. I have a video specifically looking at that if you're interested. Peter Millard tested it too (if you've seen it) and was left with a hideous gap. Something wrong with his demo saw and should have been returned.
Someone has commented on one of my videos that they removed the special washer completely.
I love the score function personally though.
Here's my video on the score cut and how it works: ua-cam.com/video/Wjn_8Hur9dg/v-deo.html
Great video. Never knew of some of these features on this saw. What’s funny is I thought Festool was the only company who made a track saw the first time I saw one. 😂 Now I own a Makita, Festool track saws.
Cheers. There was a time when only festool did a track saw. Most have them now though. I think the Makita is a decent plunge saw. Really well specced for the money too. And you can make use of all the festool accessories.
Bisch Basch Bosch - Thanks. That’s what I thought. Yes, I’m actually using my Makita on my Festool track because I had bought the Festool track way back when I bought the Festool saw. It’s corded and my Makita is cordless so I use the Makita more. 😊
Great video ... Does anyone in the community have experience of the cordless version.. any significant cons?
Exactly the same saw functionally. Best performance is had with the 8ah metabo batteries. Doesn't have quite the power of the corded, nor say the Makita with 2 batteries but plenty powerful enough and better quality cut than the competition. See Concorde Carpenters recent cordless plunge saw head to head to see where the mafell comes out tops.👍
great review, way outside my price range, but certainly want one now :)
Thank you. Mafell tools are pricey compared to most but their quality and features do set them apart. They're built for every day professional use. Great results can be had with cheaper tools though. The most important thing with saws like this is blade choice. If on a more limited budget, that's where I'd recommend spending your money.👍
Ohhhh getting so.close to.that 1k sub pal... top video as always 👍👍👌👌
Cheers Arran. Nearly 1k...All getting a bit serious innit.😁
Would the 45 bevel and upright lines maybe be the same if you were using a Mafell track..? The manufacturer claims so
I've got both Mafell and Bosch tracks bud. They're exactly the same. In fact, Mafell make them for both brands. Besides, the anti-splinter strip is cut by the saw at zero degree so, even if there was a slight in the track, it should still tilt to 45 on the same line as the manufacturer claims. On mine it doesn't. Still think its the best plunge saw. And to be fair, they're not the only company to claim to bevel on the zero line and doesn't always...Not mentioning any names😉
@@BischBaschBosch Interesting to know as I'm about to buy one.
Thanks for the info and vid :)
@@lifeshort Sure you won't be disappointed mate. I keep meaning to have a look at the saw to see if it can be adjusted for the 45 degree cut line. Just haven't got round to it.
@@BischBaschBosch
Just ordered one now so I’m expecting good things! 🙂
This is the clip where the guy’s talking about the bevel cut. Prob got his facts wrong maybe:
ua-cam.com/video/-ssR59iPJYo/v-deo.html
@@lifeshort Nice one. Nah, he's not got his facts wrong. It is supposed to cut on the line. My buddies one cuts on the line - even with my rails - but mine misses it by about 1mm. No idea why. Like I say, I keep meaning to have a look in case I'm missing something obvious. Be interested to know if yours cuts on the line or not.
Hi Stu. Sorry to pop up in an old vids comments - couldn't see a way to message you privately. Had the Mafell on loan for a little while (video just out now) and I get a much bigger gap with the scoring cut than you seem to; just wondering if it's changed at all over time? I'm getting reports from guys who say theirs is perfect, just about equal with the ones that say theirs also has the ~0.3mm gap. Perfect cut in cheap & nasty MFC (not the good stuff) but gappy as anything. 🤷♂️ Cheers, P 👍ps email me through the 'about' section if you prefer to keep it private.
Alright Peter. If you're on FB you can always contact on there if you prefer (still bbb on there). Just watched you vid. Nicely done as always mate. Yeah, that was one hell of a gap you got there. Certainly more than I get with mine. Why that would be I couldn't say. Can't see that the material would make much difference. Real puzzle. The offset is controlled by a washer machined to be a fraction thicker at the bottom than at the top I believe. Perhaps manufacturing inconsistencies could mean some are a fraction different than others, meaning a more noticeable gap for some?
I agree that it would be useful to be able to by pass sometimes. Properly busy at the minute but I'll try and have another look to see what happens changing a few things round.
Bisch Basch Bosch Thanks Stu. Ah, OK - I never think about Facebook tbh, not a platform I really use, but thanks. Yes, it’s a bit of a headscratcher, and as you say, pre-determined at manufacture. But I’m getting more than a few guys telling me theirs is the same, so it doesn’t seem to be a one-off. Odd. Anyway, good to hear you keeping busy - back at it myself this week - so don’t worry about messing about with the saw when you should be earning, lol! Cheers, Peter. 👍👍
Surely the point of the scoring cut is to go in the other direction, ie from back to front, then complete the cut in the normal way. The shallow cut means there's little danger of the climb cut causing the saw to lose control. The scoring blade on a panel saw rotates in the opposite direction to the main blade and that's what produces the clean top edge.
True that the score blade is the other way on panel saws. Indeed, before having this saw I had the Bosch which didn't have the score function, I used to set the blade to a shallow pass first and run it backwards. Then full depth forward. Results were good. However, The score function on the mafell leaves a perfect edge when run forward. You could run it backward if you preferred for the score cut. The point is really is that having the function built in, whichever direction you run the score pass, it's quick and easy with this saw. You don't need to set the depth twice.
@@BischBaschBosch Good reply thanks.
I wish this had a front handle aswell much like the other brands.
Yeah, a few people say that bud. I had the Bosch GKT before this which, although made for them by Mafell, did have a front handle. Personally, I never used the front handle on the Bosch and so don't miss it on the Mafell. The Mafell does have a thumb rest on the front left of the base. This I use from time to time. In the same manner, I used to rest on the front left corner of the base of the Bosch too. One handed tool mostly but depends how you work and what's best for you I guess.
@@BischBaschBosch thanks for that. I already went out and purchased the Mafell MT55cc package today. Can't wait to try it tomorrow.
@@B15SDMDESIGNS Sure you'll love it mate. Proved a decent workhorse for me. Ease of blade change a godsend. 👍
Hi there, so what do you think compared to the festool plunge saw? would you swat this for the festool ? ps what vac did you use for your Mafell?
I did try the festools before getting the Mafells I have. My preference is Mafell. I like the quick blade change. Motor power is good. I love the score function (though some dont). Feels well built and more wieldy the the Festool. Plus the base gives you a choice of rails. All subjective though I guess. If you can try or at least hold each before you buy, all the better. My vacs are Bosch
@@BischBaschBosch which model of bosch vac u use for mafell, ps thanks for replying. I think I may go for the mafell myself
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka I've got a GAS 20L and a GAS 35M. The 35 is very good and the one I take out to jobs most The 20 has proved a reliable thing ( used for genuine wet and dry use, rubble, plaster, cement etc) for the money. Never struggled but is basic, only fills bags half way and doesn't stay on a second or 2 after turning off power tools to clear the hose. When/if these die, I'll probably get Festool vacs tbh. If not just for the hose storage and accessories.
Could never find out if the Corded version is Brushless or not.
Only their cordless version is brushless mate. A brushed motor isn't an issue when corded. Arguably has some advantages. 👍
@@BischBaschBosch thanks for the answer 👍
How accurate are the 0° and 45° angles? Like 45,0° or 45,1° etc. Are they repeatable within 0,1°?
I find the saw pretty accurate. It has adjustment in the base to dial in accuracy. There are too many variables with a saw of this type and guide rail to say you can consistently get to within 1/10th degree accuracy. For example, the guide rails themselves, whichever brand, have anti-slip strips underneath (made of foam in the case of Festool etc, rubber in the case of Bosch/Mafell). These can compress a little depending on the load the saw is under and how much user weight is applied. That's just 1 variable. If you want repeatable accuracy to within 1/10th degree, you're better off cutting your material with a panel saw, or finding someone who has one and asking them to cut it for you.
@@BischBaschBosch Alright thank you. I guess in the end I'll be getting a Erika. lol
@@saiiiiiii1 That'd be nice. Not cheap though!!
@@BischBaschBosch yeah I guess I'll see what the used market has to offer.
Great saw got it love it well worth the money
I agree mate. Goo bit of kit.
Good content, thanks.
(IMHO worth getting a better camera - useful closeups?)
Thank you! A short while after doing this video I did get a new camera. Has a macro lens for close ups and everything. I still don't know what I'm doing with it but, it's getting a little better.
What is that connector you have attached to the power cable?
They're Neutrik. I cover them and provide links in this video ua-cam.com/video/jnQPcGuLKzk/v-deo.html
Just won the full cordless maffel kit on trade tool giveaways wahey!👍😎
You lucky son of a . ...nah, well done mate mate. You must be stoked. Hope it serves you well.👌👍
@@BischBaschBosch get yourself some tickets mate. I win the DeWalt cordless router and Marples chisels set in a separate competition in the same live draw. I'm buzzing 😀
what is your saw blade please ?
I use the Mafell fitment blades from Key Blades & Fixings. I quite like them. They have the exact same dimensions as original Mafell blades. They also do Festool fitment blades too.
@@BischBaschBosch thanks a lot. I think I'll try it on a Festool.
Is the cut line for bevel cuts accurate... No...Ah. And this is the best plunge saw on the market?
The best saw of its type out there doesn't mean perfect bud. I've had the fortune using nearly every premium plunge saw through work. The Mafell is the one I settled on. It is - like the other premium brands - supposed to cut on the same line at 45. But, like the other brands, some come out of the factory not doing so. 🤷♂️ The Mafell does have the benefit of everything being adjustable though. It's unique in that respect (one if the reasons it's the best). I have figured out what the problem is and will hopefully have a video up soon about correcting it. Only reason I didn't do it sooner is I need to bevel cut so infrequently, it's not an issue. A couple of subscribers asking about it made me bother looking into the issue.
@@BischBaschBosch 👍 I wasn’t having a go just wading my way through reviews trying to make my mind up and there’s always something.. Having seen your video I did some research and you seem to be right, there seems to be a fault coming out the factory that others have managed to fix or get them to fix. Maybe they’ve sorted on newer ones 🤷. Anyway thanks for the response. I think I may take the plunge (sorry).
@@jonathankeenan5163 No salt mate😁 . Thing is, at this price point, expecting your kit bang on from the factory shouldn't be too much to ask. Not always the case unfortunately. Don't think you'll be disappointed if you get one. Gives a beautiful edge on laminates thanks to the score cut. A breeze to change blades when you build a collection for different stuff. Lots of adjustability to dial in if needed. Unmatched dust collection. All that. If buying new, do check the score offset (see my vid on that) and the bevel cut line. If it's not right, don't settle, get it swapped or looked at.
Spoiler for the bevel fix - 4 washers under the bevel mounts = perfect bevel cut line. Like I say, I'll have a vid up covering the fix in a week or 2. It's in the cue.👍
@@jonathankeenan5163 Just uploaded a video with a fix for the 45 degree cutline if you're interested. ua-cam.com/video/2Mzkk5O9e58/v-deo.html
Those benchdogs look brilliant and seemed to fit the Bosch tracks accurately! Do you have the part numbers for them on the website you mentioned? It looks like the ship to the US as well! Excellent video! Thanks!
Thanks Kiran. I find the fit very good. Find the link for the guide rail dogs below. Be sure to select the version you want (eg Bosch) before adding to basket. I highly recommend buying the collars for the dogs too for setting and holding height (second link). You can use my BBBYT code at the checkout for an extra 5% off. All the best.
benchdogs.co.uk/collections/bench-dogs/products/guide-rail-dogs-grooved-festool-makita-triton?ref=nqpous8w5eme
benchdogs.co.uk/collections/bench-dogs/products/b-collar?ref=nqpous8w5eme
@@BischBaschBosch Thanks! I’ll order that in! I noticed that they had different brand dogs, so will pay attention! Also thanks for the code!
Top Work Gent 🤟🏻🤟🏻
Good review , thanks
Thanks Michael.👍
I really liked your video and am green with envy. I really want one but Canadian availability and price for a hobbiest make it out of reach for me.
Thanks Cam. I know that Timberwolf in the US is the Mafell supplier to N.America. Not sure what the prices are like though. To be honest, the Makita plunge saw is very good and reasonably priced for pros and hobbiests alike. It has the score function like the Mafell, good power and an anti-tip mechanism for bevel cuts.
That's all true .. I run a battery Makita cutting mostly sheet MDF and kitchen worktops and rarely change blades for materials the only thing I miss is the easy blade height adjustment. It's a fiddly thumb screw but you soon adapt.. having said that the mafell seems to be the gold standard right now if you need all its feature set.. I'd say it's decent value.
Nice vid, thanks. I splurged.
Cheers Paul. Did you get one? Sure you'll love it.👍
@@BischBaschBosch I went for the cordless, price made me wince a bit but I'm really pleased with it.
Cuprex, bobinage du moteur avec des fils de cuivre de plus gros diamètre. On ne ressent rien de spécial si ce n'est que la machine souffre moins à chaque coupe.. Le moteur se fatigue beaucoup moins, chauffe moins, l'attaque du bois est plus ferme, des coupes plus propres et une durée de vie du moteur rallongée .. Pas étonnant que Mafell à beaucoup de copyright sur les mécanismes festool, hilti, bosch... Etc etc more torque for the same watts..
Interesting, thanks. As I say in the video, that's what I notice most - that the motor feels like it provides an effortless cut. Match it with a good blade and even through hard woods at full depth, it makes easy work of the cut.
German products are great. Bosch, Festool, Mafell. Products too expensive? Never heard of service? The service is great
I do love German tools. I'm also a fan of Fein. Very good quality.
My tuned Parkside perform just as good as my Mafell or Makita, only the sound lol
Sure. A good blade can help improve budget saws greatly. If you have all 3 of those brands, you should do a comparison video. It'd be popular no doubt.
I bought this saw because I believed the hype, sold my lovely Festool TS55EQ (Older version - a little more solid than the new one). I made a big mistake, the spring for the plunge on the Mafell doesn't ride very smooth and jerks a little, the Festool is so smooth. Also when on the rail it doesn't ride as smooth as the Festool because the Festool has anti friction strips built into the rail to make the saw glide on the rail. I didn't like the safety latch for the switch either, I found it uncomfortable compared to the Festool. The only weak point with festool is the rubber splinter guard on the rail, the glue can fail and the rubber comes loose, they could improve the joining of the rails also. I couldn't wait to sell the Mafell, also if you notice they are easy enough to pick up second hand. I think the Bosch is a better saw, the only thing I don't like about it is there doesn't seem to be any adjusting screws built into the base of the saw in case it needs adjusting for cutting 90 degrees, I can't understand why they didn't do this, even basic circular saws have this. The plunge is much smoother on the Bosch and also you have a front handle, some people like a front handle.
The Mafell glides on its rails just fine. If there's debris causing a little friction, a simple wipe down with a wonder wipe sorts that out. The Mafell and the Bosch use the exact same plunge mechanism including spring, handle release and depth gauge. In that sense, they operate about the same in terms of ease of plunge. I had the Bosch a few years ago before the Mafell. Both the Bosch and Mafell have a small grub screw below the -1 degree button on the base for setting/adjusting 90/0 degrees. They also have screws for adjusting the blade angle to set it perfectly parallel to the guide rail slot. Those combined with the mafells micro depth adjust for a true zero make it the most adjustable plunge saw on the market. In terms of second hand plunge saws - on eBay for example - there's always plenty of ts55's. Probably more than any other. Could be many reasons for this. Yes, there's always a handful of MT55's on there too but, quite often 110v. In the UK, most people on site are going cordless where they can. Could be a big reason why people are getting rid of their corded plunge saws. The corded Mafells have a far superior motor to the Festool. Just a cursory listen on start up makes this plainly obvious, let alone using it ripping through 50mm material. The handle is very much personal preference. I do about 99% of my cuts just using one hand so the adsense of additional handle doesn't bother me at all. Lastly, the Mafell just feels like a better built machine than either the Bosch or festool. Largely down to the blade cover, but still. I could go on but mist is covered in the vid. Needless to say we disagree.
I didn't say the Mafell doesn't glide on the rail well, its just not anything as smooth as the Festool, you can definitely feel a bit of resistance when you push it on the rail, I have heard others complain the rail moves if its not clamped, you shouldn't always need to clamp in certain situations. I was in a shop recently to look at the Bosch and the the plunge spring is designed differently, they put a bend in the plastic guide for the spring which gives it a smooth jerk free plunge. I also looked it over to see if there was a grub screw in the base in case the saw needed adjustment and I couldn't see one but I'll go back and check again but I'm fairly sure it doesn't have it, I looked at the saw and checked it very well.
I had the dowel machine (DD40) by Mafell too and got rid of it, the machine's rails became tight if I used it without dust extraction, not all times do I want to use a hoover. I've never had that problem with biscuit jointers I've used with a dust bag, the machine always run smooth on the rails.
The Festool's motor is smaller but if you use it for what it was intended for and not abuse it, it does just fine. The older TS55EQ is a great machine, I'm not too keen on the new model.
@DEXTER941 not to press the issue but like I said, the Bosch and Mafell share the same plunge mech, spring and all. Mafell make the GKT for Bosch and while there are many differences, the overall plunge and bevel mech is the same. At 4:07 In my vid where I have the base of the saw showing you can see the 2 small grub screws (immediately above left and above right from the square hole in the base) that set 90 degrees. They ARE there. That you couldn't find them is your issue, not the saws. Now you know they're there and where they are, probably best to leave that one go. I tend to use rail dogs or clamps for a lit of cuts, especially smaller ones. If the rails move, it's more to do with the Bosch/mafell rails have very slim rubber strips underneath, which when dusty, don't offer much grip. Less of an issue over a longer length. The festool pattern rails have much larger foam anti slip strips under rail. For me, ease of connectivity is more important. For this, the bosch/mafell rails are superior. It's fine for you to prefer the Festool - old or or new. Your comments do read like you've never actually used the Mafell though.
A bit of arrogance creeping through with those comments. Yes the Mafell saw has the grub screws in the base, after all I had the saw. I was talking about the Bosch saw not having the grub screws, I examined it in the tool shop and couldn't find them, its designed differently but I'll look again to satisfy you and me but I'm 99% sure it doesn't have them. As for the plunge spring, I just told you its a different design, Bosch put a bend in the plastic guide for the spring to make it a smoother plunge. Yes there is a collaboration between Bosch and Mafell on this saw, similar design for sure but I don't believe Bosch would put their name on the saw and have Mafell make it for them. Bosch are around a long time and well know how to make power tools, show me some proof that Mafell make the saw for Bosch. I know loads of people love the Mafell but I didn't like it. I agree I like the concept the way Mafell joins the rails and the way the splinter rubber attaches but I'm talking about the saw alone. I think the Mafell has some flaws too which is why I got rid of it and I'd take my Festool TS55EQ back in a heartbeat.
that is one dirty dirty blade you got there.
It's seen a lot of work that one. As do all my blades tbh. Hopefully you noticed it's not a blade I actually cut with toward the end of the vid.😉