Could you guys please do a video about surfacing or build up on cast iron? Like small meticulous stuff, maybe like filling in or building up rust pits or other low spots in critical surfaces. Perhaps on cylinder wall or bearing surface?
Nothing wrong with a bit of variety in the videos! Having said that, the more educational content that is out there and available to all welders the better for everyone.
@@whedge78 Google said he's taking some time off for personal stuff. Said there was some flooding in his state, etc. But that's from 2019 so I'm not sure. Didn't realize he's only a few hours from me!
Awesome video. Hard facing is something I've done very little of but its of of those things that's in high demand! Good little side hustle for all those welders looking to start their own businesses.
Dale, And here I thought you just did Downhill 6010.....lots of metallurgy involved in hard facing, the types of rod and materials to weld are immense, also the way and where you put the build up can make a big difference, I know Lincoln has some great info in their Arc Welding Procedure Handbook....
Yeah the real world applications and techniques help out a lot more than in shop. I for one have never welded inside a shop before, only out in the field. So things are done a little different .
Thank you so much for this. We have an auger at work I've been trying to talk the boss into hard facing. He talked to several "certified" welders and guys who "donitall fer 30 years" and none of them had a clue what hard facing was. Maybe I can try my hand at it now.
I must have laid down so many miles of manganese I couldn't count them all.Always thought it was some boring ass work but it sure helped pay the bills!
Great Video! In the shop and field I use Fab Tuf 960 in .045 out of an old LN-25 suit case. Running a 7018 over the base metal has been critical to promoting good adhesion to hardened or abrasion resistant base. I know this was for informational use, so what I've learned is to work the entire area. Doing small sections and moving around so not to concentrate heat too much in one area and cause distortion (operators dont like it when there's a bow in their buckets). Digging these new video, keep up the great work!
That's awesome! We will be running my LN-25 when we do the wire feed videos. Thanks for the insight in the comments, there is a lot things I didnt mention and need to be brought to attention. I will be making note of what I missed and adding to the next videos. Thanks again!
Is the Fab tuf 960 a gasless wire? We use the lincore 55 at the shop I'm at and I learned the hard way that gas can be your best friend even with gasless wire. The gas actually pushes the smoke generated away from you without affecting the weld itself. Not sure if that applies to all hardfacing wire or not.
Could you guys please do a video about surfacing or build up on cast iron? Like small meticulous stuff, maybe like filling in or building up rust pits or other low spots in critical surfaces. Perhaps on cylinder wall or bearing surface?
Finally, an informative video ! Even if the product placement was pushed too hard (you're also supposed to check the "supported by product placement box" when uploading a video like this) I think it missed an explanation to why you leave space between your beads when hardfacing. It is done so that it will trap dust, dirt, pebbles etc to provide natural abrasion resistance. For this purpose i think the checker board pattern you showed was a bit too big Also, would have been cool to mention buttering rods. In some situation 7018 are not good for the buttering layer, so you use rods that are meant especially to be a middle layer between structural steel and hardfacing
The size of the checkerboard pattern depends on the material the equipment is exposed to. Smaller patterns are good to hold in fine material wet applications. Larger patterns are used where the equipment is exposed to dry and large material....like the concrete crushing/recycling equipment Bob is working on here.
@@tak252 i know, but i feel like there is small paterns, large patterns, and way too large pattern as shown here 😂 You can even see chalk marks in between the stringer, just as if he was planning on running a half the size checker board
Yes this checkerboard is a little large and I did skip a few mark's 😅. We plan on getting more into detail with checkerboard, line and random patterns in some future videos. Thanks for the feedback.
I have a few different questions. 1- what types of equipment do you not want to just start hard facing on the original base metal? 2-for hard facing do you always preheat before hard facing? 3-is the build up layer just to build up worn base metal or is the build up also the butter layer? Thanks in advance.
I think the biggest thing the failed to mention when in the dirt industry such as buckets or blades. When your hard facing you want to create pockets for small amounts of material to get caught and stay on the face. Because dirt against dirt doesn’t wear out. If that makes sense
Perfect video 👌👍 keep up the great work. There's also two types of hard facing rods one for rock/stone and another for metal on metal wear. Have y'all ever tried 7024 on some spools? I heard it's pretty quick compared to using 7018 for a cap/ filler pass
Thank you. Thanks for the support. Yes we do run 7024 such a beautiful rod! Also we will be getting into all types of hardfacing, base metals, buttering rods, stainless rods, hardface wires and why we need different processes for different projects.
Nice to see a track crusher, just feel this was oversimplified. I haven't opened my impacter area not the results of my own hard facing in that area. Think giving some explaining on a Stoody 35 over a 965 ap or g. Yes, we can google this ourselves, sometimes the harder material is not necessary and can use a more cost-effective solution in those areas. Most of my experience has been with Lincore L60-0, i started doing this "buttering" layer after seeing the buckets come back and chunks of hardfacing missing. Much Appreciated thank you
We will definitely be doing different types of hardfacing processes on different parent materials. I think wire feed will be next. That bead breaking off is called spalling and is created by hardface material being to strong and tearing out the softer base material on impact. You can run a stainless steel rod as a buttering barrier between the base material and surface rod to prevent that in the future. Thanks for the feedback 🤙
@chris chris so I been doing hardfacing for a good while now. With a different employer, who really did not teach me anything about the stuff. I picked up bits and pieces, till I got hired by the company that I was doing the work for. Following? Now it is all me, and videos like this is a great tool for me to further my base. But I in someways have gone beyond the basics and would like more information and details. So that I can a informed decisions on what I am doing and purchasing for consumables.
In most thick wear plates or heavy machinery yes. It helps to prevent cracking of the hardface bead and to get just enough penetration into the material. But you can also use stainless steel rods on thinner material to get abrasion resistance without having to preheat.
You are correct. The thicker the hotter. The plate we did the demo on was 1 inch and the wearplates in the crusher were about 2 inch. We preheated to 400° but there should be guidelines in the box of rods you choose. I would say half inch is a good size to start warming. You can also run some test passes and listen and look for cracking after laying the bead.
Another dam good video guys. The why you do what you do is so needed with these kind of tutorials. The visual along with instructions is superb. Keep up the great work.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 thank you! Guys like me who don’t have to weld for a living but need to have good welding skills on the farm are indebted to you.
I work industrial maintenance, I use Stoody 101HC .45 wire to hard face our extrusion auger flights. They get totally covered. Working a puddle is way different than running a bead.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 the draw bar dos get constant wear. It it where a piece of equipment would be attached. There is friction for sure..that is why it is worn down. Thks
@@JacobAHull-nx6rx well then hardfacing rod would do great for that. You can also use a stainless steel rod for good abrasion resistance if you can not find hardfacing rods.
@@JacobAHull-nx6rx there are certain type rods for metal to metal wear, metal to sand, metal to rock, metal to impact.....some are expertly hard but not tough meaning they will chip off if impacted......the different hard facing rod makers have good information on which ones to use and how......they do not want you to fail considering the cost of some of the rods....hope this helps Jacob ......cheers, Paul
one question I have that I can't find anywhere is, are hard facing rods supposed to run vertical up or vertical down. Its all nice and everything when you get to weld flat but some of us ain't in the shop.
What is the reason for 7018 before hard surface rod? What is the reason for preheat? I work in construction field and have heard GC talk about building up pumps on concrete pump truck. Any issues with that or recommendation ?
I used the 7018 to demonstrate a build up of worn material like on a used excavator bucket. The preheating is to help the bead cool without cracking. If the pump material is not to thick you may not need to heat.
Bob Moffat already sprinkled holy water on the new crew in an entire video shot just for that purpose. Some people need to get over their fear of change. Sheesh!
@@OnRappel We bring all welders and educators from the industry who want to share their knowledge. This isn't just one or two people channel. This is a platform for everyone to share and learn.
@@Welddotcom of course we get that it's a multiplatform, but he's been here for years and as a fellow Marine, fellow fabricator, and subscriber to the show for almost a decade, red beard Marine and Moff Marine are guys I can listen to, even the old old guy from 7+ years ago... Direct and to the point, clear and concise, no banter back and forth...
The Postalloy tubular rod produces a 90% weld deposit leaving only 10% slag. The Stoody rods have a 60% weld deposit leaving 40% slag covering the entire bead. Similar to the 7018 rod slag peel.
Struggled today with some Lincoln wearshield 60 hard facing on our terex crusher plant , stuff just didn’t want to lay down , up and down with the heat the rod was getting red hot and couldn’t get a stable arc , only way it would run if I ran a big arc gap and it looked like shit
I always saw our welder run beads of weld then run the hard surface over it. He never ground down the weld. He always said the reason was for down the road if he had to cut something off. He could cut thru the hard surface cause it had a reg weld base 🤷♂️ Seemed to work on top and bottom of bucket shanks
@@ypaulbrown Yes, the 11018 was used for building up worn areas in a hammer mill that would spit out chunks of car crank shafts all day long. We also used them for worn areas on grabber crane buckets. Stoody wire was later in life and used on brand new parts for the railroad. They specified where to apply the Stoody passes because they knew where the wear would be.
I used a postalloy 215hd tubular rod and a stoody 35 rod for hardfacing. I used a 7018 rod for build up and I did not use but should have mentioned that a stainless steel rod makes a great buttering layer.
Yes, but a 3/32" or 1/8" stainless steel rod would work better and would probably sharpen easier. You may have to weld small sections at a time and let it cool to prevent warping.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 you got that right......but !!!! 300 series stainless in not Hardonable like 400 series Stainless.....depending on how big your blade is, you could use small diameter crapped out drill bits to build the edge up [tig or oxy/fuel and then regrind to a sharp edge. the Bits are high speed steel and will make a very good hard surface that will hold an edge and will not be prohibitively expensive [depending on how big your blades are and how many drill bits you have laying around, I did this to my chipping hammer cause I was tired of resharpening it] hope this helps....Paul
Crazy question...could one hard face the cutting edge on a lawnmower blade...then grind/belt sand it back sharp to strengthen it, for longevity? Or would the hard facing come off and fly off like a bullet? I always wondered why they didn't harden the cutting edge of lawnmower blades...
Interesting video. It would help me to know the "why" of some of the processes - such as why the pre-heat and what kind of penetrate into parent metal you desire.
Same here. He had many (useless) details that I lose track from what I'm looking forward to know/learn. Had to rewind the video to see if I had missed something but not.... he forgot to mention anything about pre-heating and what hard-facing rod he was using. (was it ordinary 7018?) If 7018 could hard-face then he should say so. If it was some special rod, than why not detail which what? :-( This ain't Bob.
I see I didnt mention that we preheat the parent material in order to achieve just enough penetration so the rod lays nicely on top of the plate and to help prevent cracking of the hardface bead from cooling to fast.
Yeah gotta do it like icweld and just show the welding he doesn't know what machine/object working on half the time but he sure knows how to fabricate and weld
As I just bought that exact welding unit I would have liked a little more info on settings. 120 amps is a great start. But to those who don’t know already, any little tidbit of info helps. Yeah ‘it’s in another video’ is true, but I am not watching that video right now. Not looking for every little detail to be covered every time. Just showing what settings the machine is at in a snap shot works. The all digital machines make that tougher but you are here to teach right? Overall good deal. Keep the vids coming. I am also curious as to how many welders named Bob you can drag out… since folks keep asking about Bob
Hopefully I'll get to be the last Bob 🤞. I did have the machine set at 120 amps on AC setting. Also I did not adjust the knobs I believe they only work on the tig settings. I should have mentioned that.
Thanks Bob. I need to clear space so I can dig into this machine and get acquainted. Lots of stick and MiG time, little oxy fuel welding. First foray into GTAW. Thanks for the info
You can stitch down plate to your work surface to prevent warping. On most of the equipment we work on the plates are bolted into place and are typically about 3"-4" thick so warping is rare. However my demo plate did start to bend up. 😏👍🏼
Yes, we just clean the slag and let the materials do the grinding. If we were going to lay new hardfacing in an area where there is old hardfacing we would grind or gouge it out and fill it back and add new hardfacing.
Could the buildup coat or butter as you call it be done by spray welding, it’s just that some engineers like abom 69 on UA-cam likes to do that to build up a surface .
No, because spray welding is actually closer to brazing. You are not melting the base metal. It is very useful to provide material buildup, or even sometime a hardfaced layer, but i don't think it will be sound enough to weld on top of it
The old timers say that that'll crack any kind of lock bead or criss cross will trap heat and crack I have noticed that to be true on a few implements that I've done hard facing on they were high impact forestry equipment
🤣 it definitely pulled up. If I was doing that full plate I would have stitched it down. I will be bringing up that same issue in the next video. Thank you.
Yes, I should have mentioned that it is always good practice to clamp or stitch down your plate so it doesn't warp. I did neither of these and it did pull. 🤣🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Go work for Indutech Canada. Manual hardface with Chrome carbide overlay wire up to the flange face of a slip on, then dress your new surface with a nine inch grinder up to and flush with that flange face. Good luck.
I used to do this for a quarry on all their machinery and I hated it with a passion. I would spend 10 hrs a day doing this monotonous job. The only thing that would make it better was smoking a big joint and just zoning out😂
Hardfacing rod is not tensile rated. It's wear rated and rated for the material that is wearing it out, such as dirt/rock or metal to metal abrasion. If it were used to join two pieces of metal it would need to have a psi rating to match or exceed slightly the tensile rating of the metal being joined. This, however, is going to keep abrasion from wearing the metal surface prematurely so it is rated for such.
preheat to prevent cooling too fast and cracking....those parts getting welded to are high strength low alloy steels.....there are specs on what heat is needed and for what thickness, very important stuff for the success of a weld
Hello, both of these rods produce about a 60-65 Rockwell hardness on the initial pass. Sorry, I have been making notes on what I missed so I can add into our next video. Thank you for the feedback.
Hardfacing alloys do not have a tensile strength rating. Although most are well in excess over 100k PSI it is irrelevant to hardfacing as they are not used to join materials together...only protect them from premature wear.
These are the videos we want.
Could you guys please do a video about surfacing or build up on cast iron? Like small meticulous stuff, maybe like filling in or building up rust pits or other low spots in critical surfaces. Perhaps on cylinder wall or bearing surface?
This isn't the Bob we were looking for but thats alright. This is the format we were looking for
I way prefer these procedure and teaching videos to the “look at this cool thing I made videos”. Keep channeling that inner Bob Moffat!
I miss BoB
Nothing wrong with a bit of variety in the videos! Having said that, the more educational content that is out there and available to all welders the better for everyone.
@@tyrekern3674 what happened to bob?
@@whedge78 Welding Instructor @ Cowley College.
@@whedge78 Google said he's taking some time off for personal stuff. Said there was some flooding in his state, etc. But that's from 2019 so I'm not sure. Didn't realize he's only a few hours from me!
hardfacing -- that's where apprentices get a lot of practice in running beads -- great video
Great to see Bob on here
Thanks brother!
haha, you are a ham Anthony , One that can't be cured.......
I use to do a ton of hardfacing when I welded for a quarry years back. Don’t miss that stuff lol. Glad to be back in a shop
Awesome video. Hard facing is something I've done very little of but its of of those things that's in high demand! Good little side hustle for all those welders looking to start their own businesses.
Dale, And here I thought you just did Downhill 6010.....lots of metallurgy involved in hard facing, the types of rod and materials to weld are immense, also the way and where you put the build up can make a big difference, I know Lincoln has some great info in their Arc Welding Procedure Handbook....
@@WilliamHelstad practice son! Find local places that own equipment and offer your service. But theyll want to see your skill.
@@ypaulbrown easier to hard face then structural builds or repairs in my book. Love hard facing work honestly.
I built this exact same equipment brand new. 34 years experience working on this. Nice 👍 to see ya extend the equipment service life.
Much more helpful then standard 1g weld test demos
Yeah the real world applications and techniques help out a lot more than in shop. I for one have never welded inside a shop before, only out in the field. So things are done a little different .
You defently remind me of my young supervisor !
He was super sharp ! That put you two in the same category !
Thanks for the outstanding tips !
Thank you! Thanks for the compliment.
Thank you so much for this. We have an auger at work I've been trying to talk the boss into hard facing. He talked to several "certified" welders and guys who "donitall fer 30 years" and none of them had a clue what hard facing was. Maybe I can try my hand at it now.
Get ahold of me.
Kirk Reed at kirksmetalworks@gmail.com.
That's way more common than you think, you could weld for 30 years pipe and structural and never touch a piece of heavy equipment
plenty of people say they've been doing this for 20 years, and I run the other way unless they are not blow hards lol
I've never done any heavy equipment repairs,
but this was a really useful video.
thanks Paul! 👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
that was the most amazing fretting of a bass I have ever seen
I must have laid down so many miles of manganese I couldn't count them all.Always thought it was some boring ass work but it sure helped pay the bills!
Thanks for another solid upload ~
thank you for the support
Great Video! In the shop and field I use Fab Tuf 960 in .045 out of an old LN-25 suit case. Running a 7018 over the base metal has been critical to promoting good adhesion to hardened or abrasion resistant base. I know this was for informational use, so what I've learned is to work the entire area. Doing small sections and moving around so not to concentrate heat too much in one area and cause distortion (operators dont like it when there's a bow in their buckets). Digging these new video, keep up the great work!
That's awesome! We will be running my LN-25 when we do the wire feed videos. Thanks for the insight in the comments, there is a lot things I didnt mention and need to be brought to attention. I will be making note of what I missed and adding to the next videos. Thanks again!
Is the Fab tuf 960 a gasless wire? We use the lincore 55 at the shop I'm at and I learned the hard way that gas can be your best friend even with gasless wire. The gas actually pushes the smoke generated away from you without affecting the weld itself. Not sure if that applies to all hardfacing wire or not.
@@stephenadams2035 960 is a dual shield wire, 100%CO2 or 75/25 dealer’s choice.
Great job Bob!!!!! Excellent video!
Thank you! Thanks for the support!
Great video Paul and Bob . More like this if you could .
thank you for the support
Thanks for the support!
@@bobhigginbotham9035 thanks for the video 👌
Could you elaborate on when you would lay the 7018 before hardfacing?! And should you always preheat before hardfacing or na?
Could you guys please do a video about surfacing or build up on cast iron? Like small meticulous stuff, maybe like filling in or building up rust pits or other low spots in critical surfaces. Perhaps on cylinder wall or bearing surface?
I've ran tons of hard facing off a hobart 145 out the back of my ranger machine paid for its self in a couple weeks
First real welding I ever did was hard surfacing the inside of a and huge elbow on a huge dredger! I could actually lay in it. Good money!
You are part of tough breed. 🤘🤘
Finally, an informative video ! Even if the product placement was pushed too hard (you're also supposed to check the "supported by product placement box" when uploading a video like this)
I think it missed an explanation to why you leave space between your beads when hardfacing. It is done so that it will trap dust, dirt, pebbles etc to provide natural abrasion resistance. For this purpose i think the checker board pattern you showed was a bit too big
Also, would have been cool to mention buttering rods. In some situation 7018 are not good for the buttering layer, so you use rods that are meant especially to be a middle layer between structural steel and hardfacing
The size of the checkerboard pattern depends on the material the equipment is exposed to. Smaller patterns are good to hold in fine material wet applications. Larger patterns are used where the equipment is exposed to dry and large material....like the concrete crushing/recycling equipment Bob is working on here.
@@tak252 i know, but i feel like there is small paterns, large patterns, and way too large pattern as shown here 😂
You can even see chalk marks in between the stringer, just as if he was planning on running a half the size checker board
Yes this checkerboard is a little large and I did skip a few mark's 😅. We plan on getting more into detail with checkerboard, line and random patterns in some future videos. Thanks for the feedback.
I have a few different questions.
1- what types of equipment do you not want to just start hard facing on the original base metal?
2-for hard facing do you always preheat before hard facing?
3-is the build up layer just to build up worn base metal or is the build up also the butter layer?
Thanks in advance.
Lot of good content in a short video. Thanks for posting. Nice welders community here in the comments.
So, where has Bob Moffat, Redbeard and Mancub been?
I think the biggest thing the failed to mention when in the dirt industry such as buckets or blades. When your hard facing you want to create pockets for small amounts of material to get caught and stay on the face. Because dirt against dirt doesn’t wear out. If that makes sense
How much space would you leave between passes,
Max, he did mention it.....just not in detail or why
Nicely done.
nice video btw very informative😁👍
Perfect video 👌👍 keep up the great work. There's also two types of hard facing rods one for rock/stone and another for metal on metal wear. Have y'all ever tried 7024 on some spools? I heard it's pretty quick compared to using 7018 for a cap/ filler pass
Thank you. Thanks for the support. Yes we do run 7024 such a beautiful rod! Also we will be getting into all types of hardfacing, base metals, buttering rods, stainless rods, hardface wires and why we need different processes for different projects.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 awesome, love your work and what ya do!👍👌
Nice to see a track crusher, just feel this was oversimplified. I haven't opened my impacter area not the results of my own hard facing in that area. Think giving some explaining on a Stoody 35 over a 965 ap or g. Yes, we can google this ourselves, sometimes the harder material is not necessary and can use a more cost-effective solution in those areas. Most of my experience has been with Lincore L60-0, i started doing this "buttering" layer after seeing the buckets come back and chunks of hardfacing missing. Much Appreciated thank you
We will definitely be doing different types of hardfacing processes on different parent materials. I think wire feed will be next. That bead breaking off is called spalling and is created by hardface material being to strong and tearing out the softer base material on impact. You can run a stainless steel rod as a buttering barrier between the base material and surface rod to prevent that in the future. Thanks for the feedback 🤙
@chris chris so I been doing hardfacing for a good while now. With a different employer, who really did not teach me anything about the stuff. I picked up bits and pieces, till I got hired by the company that I was doing the work for. Following? Now it is all me, and videos like this is a great tool for me to further my base. But I in someways have gone beyond the basics and would like more information and details. So that I can a informed decisions on what I am doing and purchasing for consumables.
Good Info.
Welcome Bob.
Thank you. We are excited to be here!
You guys should do a vid on spray powders and different torches.
Like Eutectic Oxy/fuel, or like Metco Plasma Arc Spray?
Do you always have to pre heat the metal when hard face it?
In most thick wear plates or heavy machinery yes. It helps to prevent cracking of the hardface bead and to get just enough penetration into the material. But you can also use stainless steel rods on thinner material to get abrasion resistance without having to preheat.
How thick of metal should you start to do pre heating on and how hot should you get it also? I figure thicker the metal hotter you'll need to be.
You are correct. The thicker the hotter. The plate we did the demo on was 1 inch and the wearplates in the crusher were about 2 inch. We preheated to 400° but there should be guidelines in the box of rods you choose. I would say half inch is a good size to start warming. You can also run some test passes and listen and look for cracking after laying the bead.
Thank you that helps out. First time hard facing, so had some questions people didn't know how to answer and this video helped out
@@robertkennedy2005 excellent! I'm happy to help. If you have anymore questions please shoot them over.
Could you use a 70 series solid wire feed for the buttering layer, for time saving?
Good stuff.
What's the number on the hard facing rod? Do you know what Rockwell hardness it is? Thanks, Paul
Another dam good video guys. The why you do what you do is so needed with these kind of tutorials. The visual along with instructions is superb. Keep up the great work.
Thank you. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@bobhigginbotham9035 thank you! Guys like me who don’t have to weld for a living but need to have good welding skills on the farm are indebted to you.
@@popsxbox the farm industry is in all our backbones so I really will try to bring that to attention with some of the thing we do in videos.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 that would be great. You guys keep up the good work because like I said , us little guys really appreciate it.
man, my monitor is gonna freaking blow up from all these welding vids
I work industrial maintenance, I use Stoody 101HC .45 wire to hard face our extrusion auger flights. They get totally covered. Working a puddle is way different than running a bead.
We will be doing wire feed videos for hardfacing too. Definitely need to highlight that puddle!
Question? Do you weave the rod or drag it? I was told no weaving of the rod, but some say it doesn't matter??
Explain what kind of rod are you using for that
Hard facing greetinhs feom phoenix az✌️
I have a draw bar on an international 986 tractor that has major wear . Can I just use some 7018 or 6010 to build up without buying special rods?
Yes
Yes you can. These are typically for constant wear or abrasions on equipment. But to bring back the wear on that arm 7018 or 6011 will work great.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 the draw bar dos get constant wear. It it where a piece of equipment would be attached. There is friction for sure..that is why it is worn down. Thks
@@JacobAHull-nx6rx well then hardfacing rod would do great for that. You can also use a stainless steel rod for good abrasion resistance if you can not find hardfacing rods.
@@JacobAHull-nx6rx there are certain type rods for metal to metal wear, metal to sand, metal to rock, metal to impact.....some are expertly hard but not tough meaning they will chip off if impacted......the different hard facing rod makers have good information on which ones to use and how......they do not want you to fail considering the cost of some of the rods....hope this helps Jacob ......cheers, Paul
Thanks for the video
What kinds of gasses are you using?
one question I have that I can't find anywhere is, are hard facing rods supposed to run vertical up or vertical down. Its all nice and everything when you get to weld flat but some of us ain't in the shop.
How could you keep the plate from warping ?
The plate in the lab I should have tacked down. The plates in the crusher are pinned down with massive bolts.
What is the reason for 7018 before hard surface rod?
What is the reason for preheat?
I work in construction field and have heard GC talk about building up pumps on concrete pump truck. Any issues with that or recommendation ?
I used the 7018 to demonstrate a build up of worn material like on a used excavator bucket. The preheating is to help the bead cool without cracking. If the pump material is not to thick you may not need to heat.
Mans wearing my favorite gloves
🤙mine too buddy!
bob do a 6g pipe SMAW process root fill and cap 6010 root 7018 full and cap
Would you normally use a 7018 to build it up? Then hardface it
I think it depends on the hard face alloy and base metal
Bob Moffat already sprinkled holy water on the new crew in an entire video shot just for that purpose. Some people need to get over their fear of change. Sheesh!
Bob needs to say what's what, I'll be at fabtech this year in Chi-Raq, if he's there I'll see what's what...
What happened to the old crew?? What did I miss? Where is Red Beard?
@@dragontalontsiawd He did last week on the podcast. Feel free to listen: anchor.fm/welddotcom/episodes/EP-6-Where-is-Bob-e12r2q8/a-a5hvvs5
@@OnRappel We bring all welders and educators from the industry who want to share their knowledge. This isn't just one or two people channel. This is a platform for everyone to share and learn.
@@Welddotcom of course we get that it's a multiplatform, but he's been here for years and as a fellow Marine, fellow fabricator, and subscriber to the show for almost a decade, red beard Marine and Moff Marine are guys I can listen to, even the old old guy from 7+ years ago... Direct and to the point, clear and concise, no banter back and forth...
Are we gonna have any more vids of franken Bob anytime in the near future ?
Good stuff Bob!
Thank you! And yes we do have more videos coming out.
Thanks Bob! What sort of surface area coverage rates do you get hard surfacing?
The Postalloy tubular rod produces a 90% weld deposit leaving only 10% slag. The Stoody rods have a 60% weld deposit leaving 40% slag covering the entire bead. Similar to the 7018 rod slag peel.
Struggled today with some Lincoln wearshield 60 hard facing on our terex crusher plant , stuff just didn’t want to lay down , up and down with the heat the rod was getting red hot and couldn’t get a stable arc , only way it would run if I ran a big arc gap and it looked like shit
Awesomeness 😎 TYVM 👍
which wlding rod has been Use for the hardfacing
solid info 👍🏼
do y'all have a video for penetration depths for single phase versus three phase
I always saw our welder run beads of weld then run the hard surface over it. He never ground down the weld. He always said the reason was for down the road if he had to cut something off. He could cut thru the hard surface cause it had a reg weld base 🤷♂️ Seemed to work on top and bottom of bucket shanks
Used to use 11018 rods and Stoody wire for hard-facing.
Rose bud torch and temp sticks are a must-have.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Kevin, welding to some really hard stuff I presume
@@ypaulbrown Yes, the 11018 was used for building up worn areas in a hammer mill that would spit out chunks of car crank shafts all day long. We also used them for worn areas on grabber crane buckets. Stoody wire was later in life and used on brand new parts for the railroad. They specified where to apply the Stoody passes because they knew where the wear would be.
What rod do you use for hard facing/buttering/build-up?
I used a postalloy 215hd tubular rod and a stoody 35 rod for hardfacing. I used a 7018 rod for build up and I did not use but should have mentioned that a stainless steel rod makes a great buttering layer.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 thanks. Awesome videos
How do you run stoody 31’s vertically?
Can mower blades be hard face to last longer
Yes, but a 3/32" or 1/8" stainless steel rod would work better and would probably sharpen easier. You may have to weld small sections at a time and let it cool to prevent warping.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 you got that right......but !!!! 300 series stainless in not Hardonable like 400 series Stainless.....depending on how big your blade is, you could use small diameter crapped out drill bits to build the edge up [tig or oxy/fuel and then regrind to a sharp edge. the Bits are high speed steel and will make a very good hard surface that will hold an edge and will not be prohibitively expensive [depending on how big your blades are and how many drill bits you have laying around, I did this to my chipping hammer cause I was tired of resharpening it] hope this helps....Paul
Do you tac weld the 1/6 down solid to keep it from drawing
I did not tac this down for the demo but if we were surfacing the whole plate I would have to prevent drawing.👍
I need a hood like that ... where can I find one ?
The hood is a standard sugar scoop pipeliner hood but I had a buddy on Instagram chop it down and leather it. @Tennesseewelder85 check him out. 👍
Crazy question...could one hard face the cutting edge on a lawnmower blade...then grind/belt sand it back sharp to strengthen it, for longevity? Or would the hard facing come off and fly off like a bullet?
I always wondered why they didn't harden the cutting edge of lawnmower blades...
Interesting video. It would help me to know the "why" of some of the processes - such as why the pre-heat and what kind of penetrate into parent metal you desire.
Same here. He had many (useless) details that I lose track from what I'm looking forward to know/learn. Had to rewind the video to see if I had missed something but not.... he forgot to mention anything about pre-heating and what hard-facing rod he was using. (was it ordinary 7018?) If 7018 could hard-face then he should say so. If it was some special rod, than why not detail which what? :-(
This ain't Bob.
I see I didnt mention that we preheat the parent material in order to achieve just enough penetration so the rod lays nicely on top of the plate and to help prevent cracking of the hardface bead from cooling to fast.
I did mention that we were using a Postalloy tubular rod and also a Stoody 35 rod. We used a 7018 as a build up layer.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 thank you. That helps me.
Yeah gotta do it like icweld and just show the welding he doesn't know what machine/object working on half the time but he sure knows how to fabricate and weld
Plz tell the hardfacing rod name ?
Do they have hardfacing for tig???
Yes they do. Typically you can find a steelite tig filler at the local weld shop.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 Thank you Bob. Take care
Along with stelite (cobalt alloys) there are chromium carbide and tungsten carbide type rods that can be used for tig.
@@tak252 Thanks alot Troy for your info, im taking it all in right now at break. Thanks again
Super 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Cool, I will do the same on a worn out bagger shovel
Been rocking Comeaux since 03
As I just bought that exact welding unit I would have liked a little more info on settings. 120 amps is a great start. But to those who don’t know already, any little tidbit of info helps. Yeah ‘it’s in another video’ is true, but I am not watching that video right now.
Not looking for every little detail to be covered every time. Just showing what settings the machine is at in a snap shot works. The all digital machines make that tougher but you are here to teach right?
Overall good deal. Keep the vids coming. I am also curious as to how many welders named Bob you can drag out… since folks keep asking about Bob
Hopefully I'll get to be the last Bob 🤞. I did have the machine set at 120 amps on AC setting. Also I did not adjust the knobs I believe they only work on the tig settings. I should have mentioned that.
Thanks Bob. I need to clear space so I can dig into this machine and get acquainted. Lots of stick and MiG time, little oxy fuel welding. First foray into GTAW.
Thanks for the info
Awesome! That is a nice machine to run. You should have a lot of fun. Make something great. 🤙
Ain't nothin but a thang, right on
Does Bob skate?
Yes, just not like I used to. 🤘
Do you experience warp? If so how to counteract -if needed
You can stitch down plate to your work surface to prevent warping. On most of the equipment we work on the plates are bolted into place and are typically about 3"-4" thick so warping is rare. However my demo plate did start to bend up. 😏👍🏼
so . you would not grind down the bead of hardface weld? you just leave it as welded?
Yes, we just clean the slag and let the materials do the grinding. If we were going to lay new hardfacing in an area where there is old hardfacing we would grind or gouge it out and fill it back and add new hardfacing.
@@bobhigginbotham9035 THANX for the info😁👍
@@bobhigginbotham9035 great info Bob
madcap, and that hard face weld is, well you know, HARD!!!!! ain't no fun to grind
Could the buildup coat or butter as you call it be done by spray welding, it’s just that some engineers like abom 69 on UA-cam likes to do that to build up a surface .
No, because spray welding is actually closer to brazing. You are not melting the base metal.
It is very useful to provide material buildup, or even sometime a hardfaced layer, but i don't think it will be sound enough to weld on top of it
Spray welding is used as a buildup in many shaft applications but not common on plate steel. 2 very different applications.
@@tak252 thanks for your feedback, much obliged
WHAT HARDFACING RODS ARE YOU USING??
Postalloy 215hd ⅛" tubular rod and stoody 35 5/32" hardfacing rod.
The old timers say that that'll crack any kind of lock bead or criss cross will trap heat and crack I have noticed that to be true on a few implements that I've done hard facing on they were high impact forestry equipment
What hard facing rod did you use?
We use a Postalloy 215hd tubular 1/4" rod and a Stoody 35 rod 5/32
@@bobhigginbotham9035 Thanks Bob 👍🏻
It looks like that welded plate was bending up a little by the end of the video :)
🤣 it definitely pulled up. If I was doing that full plate I would have stitched it down. I will be bringing up that same issue in the next video. Thank you.
How many of us watching have the exact FR shirt he is wearing in the field?
It looks like a regular rasco fr ? Pretty common
Black Stallion blue plaid FR
@@bobhigginbotham9035
That's the one.
I have problems with the warp when I do hard facing. It is a lot of heat on one side of the material.
Yes, I should have mentioned that it is always good practice to clamp or stitch down your plate so it doesn't warp. I did neither of these and it did pull. 🤣🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
@@bobhigginbotham9035 are your safety glasses prescription?
@@whedge78 those are the special Elton John Signature model.......Bob don't need no stinking readin' glasses.....not yet anyway.....he is a youngin'
yeah, but can you do it in 4g? (overhead) sucks 100% more than horizontal
Your right about that. Overhead is for the fearless 🤘. Yes the postalloy tubular rods will run in every position.
Can you push the rod or no
Where is the first weld ya did?😁🇦🇺
So you build it back up with 7018. Then use your hard face rods. Cool
This the shit I did my first day of welding class. Only my welds were far from straight lol
Decent!
Go work for Indutech Canada. Manual hardface with Chrome carbide overlay wire up to the flange face of a slip on, then dress your new surface with a nine inch grinder up to and flush with that flange face. Good luck.
Prefer these type of vids
I used to do this for a quarry on all their machinery and I hated it with a passion. I would spend 10 hrs a day doing this monotonous job. The only thing that would make it better was smoking a big joint and just zoning out😂
OK, if 6000 series rods have a 6000lb tensile strength, and a 7000 series rods have a 7000lb tensile strength, what is a 'hard facing' rod rated at?
Hardfacing rod is not tensile rated. It's wear rated and rated for the material that is wearing it out, such as dirt/rock or metal to metal abrasion. If it were used to join two pieces of metal it would need to have a psi rating to match or exceed slightly the tensile rating of the metal being joined. This, however, is going to keep abrasion from wearing the metal surface prematurely so it is rated for such.
Ok why preheat the base metal won’t it wash out the weld and cause it to lay down to much instead of stack up
preheat to prevent cooling too fast and cracking....those parts getting welded to are high strength low alloy steels.....there are specs on what heat is needed and for what thickness, very important stuff for the success of a weld
Where is the info in this "infomercial". What is the tensile strength, how does it lay...
Hello, both of these rods produce about a 60-65 Rockwell hardness on the initial pass. Sorry, I have been making notes on what I missed so I can add into our next video. Thank you for the feedback.
Hardfacing alloys do not have a tensile strength rating. Although most are well in excess over 100k PSI it is irrelevant to hardfacing as they are not used to join materials together...only protect them from premature wear.
@@tak252 Just pointing that the only information i got from this infomercial is that they like their welding hat
@@tak252 great answer on tensile strength.....
is it hard to weld with hard facing rods or is it just me
The ware plate shouldn't they have been Weller?