I'm about as local as local can get. Been surfing since the late seventies grew up on the beaches that my family members lifeguarded. It's got soo busy here in Cornwall that nobody knows who a local and who is not. So many people have moved to our area to surf and they now all also consider themselves locals in the line-up. The real locals are lost in the crowds of claimed locals and locals by association. I talk to everyone, give everyone some stoke, call newbies into sets and generally don't hassle or blank people. I find that years of experience combined with a friendly, smiling attitude generally get me the waves I want. There is something very satisfying about calling a newsy into a thick set wave, you made their day and they will always respect you for it.
Well put - and while a patient novice gets their reward, it’s an equally rewarding experience for expert shredders to give a wave to a less skilled surfer! Give away a few on a session and the whole lineup brightens up. People even start talking to one another!
Very true. But man it sucks in those middle years. Best tip for catching more waves. Find the best surfer in a moderate line up (won't work in a crowd), paddle up near them and say "you call yours mate and I'll get right out of your way". It always ended up with me saying "this one yours?" and hearing "nah off ya go" at least a few times each session. Respect breeds kindness.
Bad advice. If you did that at my local you would get nowhere . It's annoying if you're the other guy who happens to be local. It's overstepping the mark a bit if you're from out of town. I'd just say "Hi" smile and don't get too close and definitely don't stick to or trail anyone else that is likely to fuck them right off! When people realise you are polite and humble you instantly break down the perception you are a threat. Start a conversation, share a joke but please don't lock-on to anyone - it's borderline hassling and will not make you very popular. (I've surfed for the last 40 years as a local on localised beaches).
@@jakethekent not suggesting you trail anyone mate. There's usually a take off spot, we are all in the same spot anyway. Just suggesting getting on the front foot and starting a conversation and making it clear you aren't there to snake waves.
Man I remember going out on a perfect day, waves forming big barrels no wind, clean, and it was so beautiful out there with the sunset. I decided to let some of the guys catch waves while I was taking in the scenery. I’d just shout “gogo all yours”. Well when it was time to head back in, the best wave of the day showed up out of the blue and let me tell you... They were all like “holy shit look at that wave, go go all yours!!” Best wave I had in a long time. I think what made it better was the fact that they were hyping me up too, what a great feeling that was. So be patient and respectful and it will come around
@Cs Genovese it is bullshit you idiot. The ocean is God's greation and it's for everyone. Picking up trash there shouldn't be in the first place if the locals behave like people. How would the world be a beter place if no one is allowed to gain any experience in life. To me people that act like that have small dicks and have alot of issues in himself.
As an 18 year old beginner surfer in Hawaii this was exactly what I needed to hear. What you said has always been my underlying assumption. Very well articulated!
Nice to see you back man. Good vid a always. I’ve been advancing in my surfing, working to get out of the intermediate phase, and I’m definitely learning the patience part. Surfing is primarily a selfish sport, the worst people I’ve ever met are other surfers, especially advanced surfers. I don’t let people bully me, but I also make sure I’m out of the way and I wait for my own wave opportunity. Surfing aside, people are selfish, but one giving and selfless person can change a whole crowd. I try to be that guy everyday in the water and out of the water.
Always carry a small pepper gel spray for peeps that get nutty in the water. Some people have real entitlement issues and just got to get sprayed in the face. Works real good!
When I was wanting to catch my first wave ever, a nice wave came along, as a beginner on a short board, I did now catch it. A experienced surfer yelled at me and told me to go surf some where else. I was so scared because It was my first time surfing and I was only 11. Thank you.
I like it - wise, sensible and the words of an experienced (and articulate) surfer .... great video ... pay your dues ... watch, learn and respect .... spend time in the water ... you're time will come
Where are you!!? Discovered your content while searching point breaks and what are they. Amazing content and I love how you are goofy foot, same. High vibes and good energy please return ! 🏄♂️ surfs up
when i was a grom we had to just last longer than all the old guys they are usely good for about 3-4 hours so just sat on the inside getting the scraps sometimes it would be like 20 minutes of light left in the day but we would get it to our selves in the end lol
Don't let anyone bully you. You have just as much right as anyone. No one owns the ocean. Be aggressive in the water. Its the survival of the fittest. Do let anyone tell you that there is a pecking order. There isn't.
not generally, as that wouldn't be much fun, but I do see people getting intimidated by other/better surfers quite a bit, and they could benefit from standing their ground
Survival of the fittest is about adaptability, not strength or aggressivity. That is, try to get a spot in the lineup and catch waves without making enemies and ruining others rides.
What if the problem is the other way? I think I am too nice in the line up, I always let other paddle in front and more often than not they don’t get the wave, and then I start paddling too late to catch it, I guess the solution is I should keep paddling until Someone else has caught it? So I still have the option to get it if they can’t 😬 I think it’s super important to get as many waves as you can in the developing stage as I’m sure many of us are who watch your videos 🙂
kudos for sharing bro. Yes, I would recommend always preparing to catch the wave, even if someone else is paddling. Keep you eyes on them as you position yourself. if they do catch the wave, do your best not to crumble the section, but lots of people will fall off the back of the wave and you'll be there ready to pounce. thanks for the comment!
American surfers picked up surfing from a very giving, aloha-focused culture, and we somehow like to think we picked up the giving and the aloha. We did not. And before someone mentions how bad localism is in Hawaii: their waves are way too crowded with tourists - worse than we'll ever know - and they're being gracious by even allowing professional out-of-towners to surf there.
hahahahahahahah bro you don't own the beach cuz! if I pull up and surf deal with it all beaches are crowded now its 2020 homie plus the beach is a public place your are not being gracious by letting us surf there I surf in Hawaii because I can and there's nothing you can do bout it aloha
Why is it called "the line-up" if there are no turns? As eloquent the words are the structure being ruled by arbitrary perceptions of worth is most uncivilized. There is always a lesson in failure each should have this opportunity.
In the line-up surfers do take turns generally, but there is more nuance to it than that. What you call arbitrary is actually a depth of knowledge coming from years of experience about where to position yourself, and an instinctive communication about who will take the wave. You would be better off paying attention to the way more experienced surfers do this than being bitter because you feel like you're missing out. "uncivilised" is an interesting word to use - the ocean is and always will be a wild environment. Trying to enforce civility on it is a lesson in futility
with differing skill levels, the front of the "line" failure lessen may only be the front isnt a place they have the skill to surf from, and so the line up breaks down.
Jesus, seeing this makes me glad my dad put me on BJJ for about 7 years. Have never been intimidated in the water for catching a wave. I've been yelled at for dropping in, paddling out in someones surf line, for creating a dangerous situation wbut never has someone acted truly aggressive or intimidating just because I was trying to get better at surfing and making mistakes because waves are a 'precious commodity' . If that day ever comes, I am prepared to either get my teeth/nose knocked out and the other person to their shit choked out....I will stand my ground.
I agree, surfers are the worst thing about surfing. I got shown so much disrespect as a beginner I stopped caring about waiting my turn. They ruin it for themselves.
This is one of the worst explanations of surf etiquette I have ever watched, the message is diluted by the shear amount of entitlement in the dialogue. 3/10 was so stupid it gave me new insights into stupidity
I'm about as local as local can get. Been surfing since the late seventies grew up on the beaches that my family members lifeguarded. It's got soo busy here in Cornwall that nobody knows who a local and who is not. So many people have moved to our area to surf and they now all also consider themselves locals in the line-up. The real locals are lost in the crowds of claimed locals and locals by association. I talk to everyone, give everyone some stoke, call newbies into sets and generally don't hassle or blank people. I find that years of experience combined with a friendly, smiling attitude generally get me the waves I want. There is something very satisfying about calling a newsy into a thick set wave, you made their day and they will always respect you for it.
Well put - and while a patient novice gets their reward, it’s an equally rewarding experience for expert shredders to give a wave to a less skilled surfer! Give away a few on a session and the whole lineup brightens up. People even start talking to one another!
Very true. But man it sucks in those middle years. Best tip for catching more waves. Find the best surfer in a moderate line up (won't work in a crowd), paddle up near them and say "you call yours mate and I'll get right out of your way". It always ended up with me saying "this one yours?" and hearing "nah off ya go" at least a few times each session. Respect breeds kindness.
Bad advice. If you did that at my local you would get nowhere . It's annoying if you're the other guy who happens to be local. It's overstepping the mark a bit if you're from out of town. I'd just say "Hi" smile and don't get too close and definitely don't stick to or trail anyone else that is likely to fuck them right off! When people realise you are polite and humble you instantly break down the perception you are a threat. Start a conversation, share a joke but please don't lock-on to anyone - it's borderline hassling and will not make you very popular. (I've surfed for the last 40 years as a local on localised beaches).
best tip on here respect for both people!
Last time I surfed a heavily localized spot I don’t frequent I gave a wave to one of the locals and they all thanked me and set me up for a good one.
@@jakethekent not suggesting you trail anyone mate. There's usually a take off spot, we are all in the same spot anyway. Just suggesting getting on the front foot and starting a conversation and making it clear you aren't there to snake waves.
Man I remember going out on a perfect day, waves forming big barrels no wind, clean, and it was so beautiful out there with the sunset. I decided to let some of the guys catch waves while I was taking in the scenery. I’d just shout “gogo all yours”.
Well when it was time to head back in, the best wave of the day showed up out of the blue and let me tell you... They were all like “holy shit look at that wave, go go all yours!!”
Best wave I had in a long time. I think what made it better was the fact that they were hyping me up too, what a great feeling that was.
So be patient and respectful and it will come around
Im always amazed the number of surfers that have zero chill. Here i always thought surfing was supposed to be relaxing
@Cs Genovese it is bullshit you idiot. The ocean is God's greation and it's for everyone. Picking up trash there shouldn't be in the first place if the locals behave like people. How would the world be a beter place if no one is allowed to gain any experience in life. To me people that act like that have small dicks and have alot of issues in himself.
''...to make the most of a very limited and very precious resource.'' That is life basically.
As an 18 year old beginner surfer in Hawaii this was exactly what I needed to hear. What you said has always been my underlying assumption. Very well articulated!
Nice to see you back man. Good vid a always. I’ve been advancing in my surfing, working to get out of the intermediate phase, and I’m definitely learning the patience part. Surfing is primarily a selfish sport, the worst people I’ve ever met are other surfers, especially advanced surfers. I don’t let people bully me, but I also make sure I’m out of the way and I wait for my own wave opportunity. Surfing aside, people are selfish, but one giving and selfless person can change a whole crowd. I try to be that guy everyday in the water and out of the water.
Having a local yell, "goooo" is the equivalent of being Knighted
Welcome back bro..good to take a wee break from UA-cam every now and then. Good points especially here in Christchurch lol Nice vid.
Chur
Always carry a small pepper gel spray for peeps that get nutty in the water. Some people have real entitlement issues and just got to get sprayed in the face. Works real good!
cringe
If another crusty old long boarder yells at me, i'll swallow my board
bro the old guys kill it for everyone lol when they yell at you just flip them off hahahaha
When I was wanting to catch my first wave ever, a nice wave came along, as a beginner on a short board, I did now catch it. A experienced surfer yelled at me and told me to go surf some where else. I was so scared because It was my first time surfing and I was only 11. Thank you.
That sucks bro. Don't let it put you off. You're welcome at my beach!
I like it - wise, sensible and the words of an experienced (and articulate) surfer .... great video ...
pay your dues ... watch, learn and respect .... spend time in the water ... you're time will come
love your vids and views! keep them coming.
Awesome video mate, I really appreciate your perspective on things
Where are you!!? Discovered your content while searching point breaks and what are they. Amazing content and I love how you are goofy foot, same. High vibes and good energy please return ! 🏄♂️ surfs up
Beautifully written, edited and delivered. The ethos was really brought out by the video and music
Thanks for the reminder
speaking mine and many other surfers minds in this video mate!
Awesome vid. Very well put The Surf Rat. I need to show this to my kids.
This was VERY well done and is a 'trueism' of surfing...
when i was a grom we had to just last longer than all the old guys they are usely good for about 3-4 hours so just sat on the inside getting the scraps sometimes it would be like 20 minutes of light left in the day but we would get it to our selves in the end lol
Don't let anyone bully you. You have just as much right as anyone. No one owns the ocean. Be aggressive in the water. Its the survival of the fittest. Do let anyone tell you that there is a pecking order. There isn't.
That is fair but not realistic, act like this in NZ and u get stomped
"survival of the fittest" implies an order. the rest I agree with
@@TheSurfRat You agree with "be aggressive in the water" too?
not generally, as that wouldn't be much fun, but I do see people getting intimidated by other/better surfers quite a bit, and they could benefit from standing their ground
Survival of the fittest is about adaptability, not strength or aggressivity. That is, try to get a spot in the lineup and catch waves without making enemies and ruining others rides.
YAAAAS YOUR BACK
What if the problem is the other way? I think I am too nice in the line up, I always let other paddle in front and more often than not they don’t get the wave, and then I start paddling too late to catch it, I guess the solution is I should keep paddling until
Someone else has caught it? So I still have the option to get it if they can’t 😬
I think it’s super important to get as many waves as you can in the developing stage as I’m sure many of us are who watch your videos 🙂
kudos for sharing bro. Yes, I would recommend always preparing to catch the wave, even if someone else is paddling. Keep you eyes on them as you position yourself. if they do catch the wave, do your best not to crumble the section, but lots of people will fall off the back of the wave and you'll be there ready to pounce. thanks for the comment!
Awesome writing and narration. Poetic, thoughtful and sage.
Thanks. You should call it "Why is everyone pecking on me"! ;)
American surfers picked up surfing from a very giving, aloha-focused culture, and we somehow like to think we picked up the giving and the aloha. We did not. And before someone mentions how bad localism is in Hawaii: their waves are way too crowded with tourists - worse than we'll ever know - and they're being gracious by even allowing professional out-of-towners to surf there.
hahahahahahahah bro you don't own the beach cuz! if I pull up and surf deal with it all beaches are crowded now its 2020 homie plus the beach is a public place your are not being gracious by letting us surf there I surf in Hawaii because I can and there's nothing you can do bout it aloha
Why is it called "the line-up" if there are no turns? As eloquent the words are the structure being ruled by arbitrary perceptions of worth is most uncivilized. There is always a lesson in failure each should have this opportunity.
In the line-up surfers do take turns generally, but there is more nuance to it than that. What you call arbitrary is actually a depth of knowledge coming from years of experience about where to position yourself, and an instinctive communication about who will take the wave. You would be better off paying attention to the way more experienced surfers do this than being bitter because you feel like you're missing out. "uncivilised" is an interesting word to use - the ocean is and always will be a wild environment. Trying to enforce civility on it is a lesson in futility
with differing skill levels, the front of the "line" failure lessen may only be the front isnt a place they have the skill to surf from, and so the line up breaks down.
imagin misunderstanding surfing so bad.
Surf Rat you're in my mind as I go over the falls cos' I never want to pull back and waste a wave haha! Great thoughts on this video as always : )
Jesus, seeing this makes me glad my dad put me on BJJ for about 7 years. Have never been intimidated in the water for catching a wave. I've been yelled at for dropping in, paddling out in someones surf line, for creating a dangerous situation wbut never has someone acted truly aggressive or intimidating just because I was trying to get better at surfing and making mistakes because waves are a 'precious commodity' . If that day ever comes, I am prepared to either get my teeth/nose knocked out and the other person to their shit choked out....I will stand my ground.
They will move on to them electric surfboards soon.
Great point for the kooks out there, mate. Cheers
Hahaha this is how it is in Northern California, bunch of mean mofos and old men.
Same in Souther Cali too kmao
its always the old guys like go retire already gtfo old fart
wise words
peace & love 🕉 that’s all it is n all it should be
People are messing with you because you are allowing them to.
Local rules are bullshit. Have respect for others and dont let your ego get in the way
This is everything that is wrong with surfing. It’s the ocean man, get over it.
Nice one mate!
Yo my mom said that the invention of the leash really fucked up surfing. 💯
Yo the “you fuck off now” guys name is Bruno and it’s my local surf spot🤦🏻
gave up surfing in Polzeath, horrid locals with bad attitude
Cool vid!
This is good advice, and it has worked for me.
Nah, people just suck and some surfers are the worst
On water they show who they are.
I agree, surfers are the worst thing about surfing. I got shown so much disrespect as a beginner I stopped caring about waiting my turn. They ruin it for themselves.
Thank god I live in Ireland where real men surf
Where’s the drama??!!
Finally got yelled at after a wipeout, shitty feeling
This is one of the worst explanations of surf etiquette I have ever watched, the message is diluted by the shear amount of entitlement in the dialogue. 3/10 was so stupid it gave me new insights into stupidity
well said.
That's why dirt bikes are better...dont need a wave,just good technique, smash em off while having fun
F*ck that if you cut me off we are throwing hands. local or not
Hi, there! You seem to have the very same voice as Paul VB, but no, u can't b ... another water man. So yap u might be Aussie. Wot ever, aloha, mate!
well said
I respect if I'm respected simple as that if someone drops in on me and I'm not a local you best believe we fighting I dgaf
Who else thought this was about the environment to the beginning?