What seems to be a better design would be if tesla would have engineered a slot in the top and corner edge of the rubber gasket whereby the window glass would close into the slot so the window would have gasket rubber on either side of the window glass. I had an Olds 1985 Toronado Caliente with frameless glass windows that never had noise from the window. The rubber gasket on the Olds was a much spongier and thicker type gasket
I did a lot of sound reduction throughout my 22 M3P. There's so little noise now. But the suspension transmits a vibration as the wheels hit rough pavement. That's just about impossible to improve upon . The vibration travels throughout the entire car via the metal structure. Tesla should have isolated the suspension better with rubber isolators like more quality cars often do. Smaller wheels, so that the tires have more rubber and all season instead of summer tires might help.
Replacing the seal, tightening the windows ect will not resolve the issue. I found out this is a major design flaw with the seal itself, all four. The B-Pillar side of the seal is made too thin and is hollow. They use the B pillar glass to support the seal but it is not enough. In the video you show that you still have a gap when pushing your finger toward the B-pillar glass and that is because you need to tuck the seal into the small groove in the glass, the best way I've found to do this is to use a plastic trim tool and your finger and slide it down slowly while pushing the seal in. I resolved my wind noise completely by filling the B-Pillar seal inner hollow portion ( that should NOT be hollow < major design flaw! ) with another tubular seal. I cut the tubular seal to the correct length and used silicone grease to slide it in and completely fill the void. It's been a couple weeks now and finally my windows properly seal. What I like most about this fix is that it is completely invisible and resolves the design flaw in the seals completely. I might make a video about this - ALOT of people are having this issue.
Where did you get the tubular seal? I thought that was the problem and I planned to fill the void with super adhesive weather stripping. Can you send any pictures to me? That would be helpful. I just double checked mine. There's no way for me to fully insert the seal into the B pillar "glass" where the side camera is embedded. (Unless the glass can be moved and I'm not sure anymore how to remove that piece.) The rubber simply does not adequately reach the glass at the top. Also the glass in the B pillar is sealed to the body everywhere but an inch or two at the top, precisely where the wind noise appears to be. I'm going with my original plan Super Adhesive Weather Stripping and piece of foam as necessary. Seal it up completely. My phone is (6+1)0ne Nine Two Four Four(6+1)0ne Two Four. Thank you!
I'm still in the testing phase right now. My car is still under warranty ( 2022 LR M3 ) so I'm going to see if Tesla will replace the seals, they might have possibly updated the design to remove this flaw. You can use any tubular seal as long as it has the correct diameter to allow for the perfect amount of give, I'm still testing this to find out which is the best size. Also I would not use a seal with adhesive as it will make it almost impossible to insert into the void. Regarding the B-Pillar glass groove, the seal merely sits in the groove and there is no way to force it in more due to the way the seal is designed, actually attempting to push it in will result in it popping out. I've never hated a door seal much in my life! There is also a small groove that the upper seal sits in as-well, this one you can push in. The door glass can be moved forward or back in it's track if your front door window is too far forward like mine was, however I would not recommend attempting to slide the glass as it was a nightmare to get aligned correctly - I was able to get it done however. Once I get the car back from service I'll try to make a video. I love the car but the build quality is absolute trash. Here's a list of the things I've fixed to date with the car: Crackling driver's side speaker, misaligned hood causing the wiper arm to hit, loose passenger side seatbelt mount
@@777Brooklynbeast777 I finally gave in and inserted a piece of window seal rubber that I cut into the gap on the B pillar to the camera "glass". And I SEALED it with black weatherstrip adhesive. It is totally sealed now with no gaps at all. I have yet to speed test it. I'll have to report back after I drive it a while.
I did everything. I adjusted the door for tightness, I adjusted the windows tilt by adjusting the entire tracks. But my best and final fix was shimming. Thank you for your comment.
Thxs George. Something else to look at rather than just the screen. I noticed the window drops down a few inches and goes up again when the door closes. That’s normal?
Yes, the windows are designed to drop so they don't crash into the metal rim of the body that hangs a bit lower than full window height. All 4 windows drop when opening and when closing. Then resume position after the door is fully closed.
Can you please🙏, a step by step video of removal of front driver seat of circa 2016-2017 Model S, and how to get at the tilt motor and change? Do we need any code to remove seats, looks like removing seat belt is tough also
I don't have a model S. I could only share what I know about model 3 / Y. There might be commonalities. I believe they share the frame in later years. So the seat frame removal should be very similar. I would check the floor bolts. Likely four, one at the end of each rail. Likely T45 torx. You'll need a breaker bar. Move seat forward to access rear bolts and rearward to access front bolts. Careful tip the entire seat back to access the bottom. You should have full visual access. From there you can see what you should do. You might have to disconnect all electrical connectors. And you might have to pull the entire seat out in order to do motor swap. I have seen a trick to remove the seatbelt.
@@georgeborrelli3134 what is the trick for the seat belt, and I saw a video that there is code "remove" that you have to put in to remove seat, is that true. There is video for everything on UA-cam but no one has done one on seat removal, tesla wanted 3400 for new seat wen my recline motor gave out, that is too high for me
@@vchowdry1I bought a replacement eBay seat for my 3, I heard conflicting things about swapping or not needing codes etc. The seatbelt on the replacement seat was cut IIRC but otherwise just plugged it all in. Do disconnect 12v and be careful, you do want to be very cautious around the airbag. I don't have a S anymore to give any specific advice on S.
That's gotta be very frustrating. I'd expect issues like this with 15-20 year old cars but with something almost brand new this is unacceptable. And if you're hearing wind noise then it's likely water will be able to get in too.
Yes, very annoying. I understand that Tesla made a number of improvements with the newest update for the Model 3. I expect there will be great reductions in noise, better ride and more. But it is frustrating for those of us currently driving the Tesla made prior to these improvements.
What seems to be a better design would be if tesla would have engineered a slot in the top and corner edge of the rubber gasket whereby the window glass would close into the slot so the window would have gasket rubber on either side of the window glass.
I had an Olds 1985 Toronado Caliente with frameless glass windows that never had noise from the window. The rubber gasket on the Olds was a much spongier and thicker type gasket
I agree, the Tesla design is underwhelming.
Tried a lot of extra seals but at the end it’s mainly road noise from tires. Wheel wells needed more insulation.
I did a lot of sound reduction throughout my 22 M3P. There's so little noise now. But the suspension transmits a vibration as the wheels hit rough pavement. That's just about impossible to improve upon . The vibration travels throughout the entire car via the metal structure. Tesla should have isolated the suspension better with rubber isolators like more quality cars often do. Smaller wheels, so that the tires have more rubber and all season instead of summer tires might help.
Replacing the seal, tightening the windows ect will not resolve the issue. I found out this is a major design flaw with the seal itself, all four. The B-Pillar side of the seal is made too thin and is hollow. They use the B pillar glass to support the seal but it is not enough. In the video you show that you still have a gap when pushing your finger toward the B-pillar glass and that is because you need to tuck the seal into the small groove in the glass, the best way I've found to do this is to use a plastic trim tool and your finger and slide it down slowly while pushing the seal in. I resolved my wind noise completely by filling the B-Pillar seal inner hollow portion ( that should NOT be hollow < major design flaw! ) with another tubular seal. I cut the tubular seal to the correct length and used silicone grease to slide it in and completely fill the void. It's been a couple weeks now and finally my windows properly seal. What I like most about this fix is that it is completely invisible and resolves the design flaw in the seals completely. I might make a video about this - ALOT of people are having this issue.
Also the seal at the B-Pillar might look tight but actually not be making contact at all. I used a piece of paper to verify this with the door closed.
Please make a video on this!
Where did you get the tubular seal?
I thought that was the problem and I planned to fill the void with super adhesive weather stripping. Can you send any pictures to me? That would be helpful.
I just double checked mine. There's no way for me to fully insert the seal into the B pillar "glass" where the side camera is embedded. (Unless the glass can be moved and I'm not sure anymore how to remove that piece.) The rubber simply does not adequately reach the glass at the top. Also the glass in the B pillar is sealed to the body everywhere but an inch or two at the top, precisely where the wind noise appears to be.
I'm going with my original plan Super Adhesive Weather Stripping and piece of foam as necessary. Seal it up completely.
My phone is (6+1)0ne Nine Two Four Four(6+1)0ne Two Four. Thank you!
I'm still in the testing phase right now. My car is still under warranty ( 2022 LR M3 ) so I'm going to see if Tesla will replace the seals, they might have possibly updated the design to remove this flaw. You can use any tubular seal as long as it has the correct diameter to allow for the perfect amount of give, I'm still testing this to find out which is the best size. Also I would not use a seal with adhesive as it will make it almost impossible to insert into the void. Regarding the B-Pillar glass groove, the seal merely sits in the groove and there is no way to force it in more due to the way the seal is designed, actually attempting to push it in will result in it popping out. I've never hated a door seal much in my life! There is also a small groove that the upper seal sits in as-well, this one you can push in. The door glass can be moved forward or back in it's track if your front door window is too far forward like mine was, however I would not recommend attempting to slide the glass as it was a nightmare to get aligned correctly - I was able to get it done however. Once I get the car back from service I'll try to make a video. I love the car but the build quality is absolute trash. Here's a list of the things I've fixed to date with the car: Crackling driver's side speaker, misaligned hood causing the wiper arm to hit, loose passenger side seatbelt mount
@@777Brooklynbeast777
I finally gave in and inserted a piece of window seal rubber that I cut into the gap on the B pillar to the camera "glass". And I SEALED it with black weatherstrip adhesive. It is totally sealed now with no gaps at all. I have yet to speed test it. I'll have to report back after I drive it a while.
So you didn't adjust the window tracks under the door panels first?
I did everything. I adjusted the door for tightness, I adjusted the windows tilt by adjusting the entire tracks. But my best and final fix was shimming. Thank you for your comment.
Thxs George. Something else to look at rather than just the screen. I noticed the window drops down a few inches and goes up again when the door closes. That’s normal?
Yes, the windows are designed to drop so they don't crash into the metal rim of the body that hangs a bit lower than full window height. All 4 windows drop when opening and when closing. Then resume position after the door is fully closed.
Can you please🙏, a step by step video of removal of front driver seat of circa 2016-2017 Model S, and how to get at the tilt motor and change? Do we need any code to remove seats, looks like removing seat belt is tough also
I don't have a model S. I could only share what I know about model 3 / Y.
There might be commonalities.
I believe they share the frame in later years. So the seat frame removal should be very similar.
I would check the floor bolts. Likely four, one at the end of each rail. Likely T45 torx. You'll need a breaker bar.
Move seat forward to access rear bolts and rearward to access front bolts.
Careful tip the entire seat back to access the bottom.
You should have full visual access. From there you can see what you should do.
You might have to disconnect all electrical connectors. And you might have to pull the entire seat out in order to do motor swap.
I have seen a trick to remove the seatbelt.
@@georgeborrelli3134 what is the trick for the seat belt, and I saw a video that there is code "remove" that you have to put in to remove seat, is that true. There is video for everything on UA-cam but no one has done one on seat removal, tesla wanted 3400 for new seat wen my recline motor gave out, that is too high for me
@@vchowdry1 Since I don't have a Model S, I'd be stepping outside of my knowledge base.
@@vchowdry1I bought a replacement eBay seat for my 3, I heard conflicting things about swapping or not needing codes etc. The seatbelt on the replacement seat was cut IIRC but otherwise just plugged it all in. Do disconnect 12v and be careful, you do want to be very cautious around the airbag. I don't have a S anymore to give any specific advice on S.
I think Tesla should redesign to completely frame windows.
Yes
What brand seat covers are those? I’m looking for a set.
EKR Custom Fit Model 3 Car Seat Covers for Select Tesla Model 3 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 - Leatherette (Red)
That's gotta be very frustrating. I'd expect issues like this with 15-20 year old cars but with something almost brand new this is unacceptable. And if you're hearing wind noise then it's likely water will be able to get in too.
Yes, very annoying. I understand that Tesla made a number of improvements with the newest update for the Model 3. I expect there will be great reductions in noise, better ride and more. But it is frustrating for those of us currently driving the Tesla made prior to these improvements.
Nobody expects these issues on a 20yr old car, either. Maybe a 20yr old car that's been rolled? This is embarrassing.
Wind noise in any car built today is unacceptable..Typical Tesla .
Agree