⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR Things I used in this video: 1. Actron Scan Tool: amzn.to/2ngeCQJ 2. Common Sense 3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX 4. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 6. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 7. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
I've gotta be honest here. I'm not a car enthusiast, but the primary reason I subscribed is 70% because of the entertainment value and 30% due to the important information your videos have. Your enthusiasm, humor and editing keeps me coming back.
Thsnks a LOT scotty! You saved me hundreds, maybe thousands...depending on the honesty of the mechanic. My engine light came on, about 5 months ago....and my traction control quit, and my cruise control quit. Long story short, i tried your first recommrndation. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. I followed your recommended time. About 8-9 minutes. Reconnected. No indicator lights. Everything working again. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I had a check engine light go on in my 2005 VW Jetta 2.5 after it had about 5000 miles on it. They fixed it twice. It's still on at 391,000 miles, and still runs great, so I guess I'm not goint to worry about it anymore.
I have a 2001 Toyota Prius with 227,000 miles on it. I was really happy to find your video to just relax and the light went on today. Check engine light. Thank you for your video. I’m definitely gonna keep watching.
Just make sure, when you do get a "check engine" light, you have good oil pressure(the oil gauge is in the normal range or the "oil" light isn't on.) I love how the repair shops advertise that "if your check engine light comes on, take it to us immediately!" So they can tell you to buy a bunch of stuff you probably don't even need!
73challenger5031 our shop doesn't advertise that way. it's the customer's responsibility to have their car looked at. you shouldn't ignore the light and at least determine why it came on. most of our customers take good care of their vehicles and don't ignore the light. not all mechanics are out to rip off customers. if we did that it wouldn't take long to get a bad reputation.
Did I say "ignore the check-engine light?" No. I was just stating that I've seen commercials that tell people to bring their car in for service when, if they want to save some money, they could do what Scott says and check the code themselves. Yes, not all mechanics are out to "rip off customers," but, as an example, I told my wife to go to the Jiffy-Lube, that I always go to, and get an oil change. She calls me from there and tells me the guy doing the oil change says her serpentine belt is on up-side down and she needs a new one! I get really pissed off because, 1. She just had her water pump replaced by a very reputable shop(that I use exclusively,) and THEY put a new belt on and 2. The damn car wouldn't run very long if the belt was upside-down anyway! So, bottom line is, if you're uneducated about how a car runs, there's always some joker trying to get you to buy stuff you don't need. I'm glad your shop doesn't do that and I'm not accusing YOU of anything. I want people to stop being lazy about informing themselves about their own cars and SOME mechanics to stop taking advantage of women!
Catalytic converter is not even a necessary thing in cars to run as far as I know is just do to a car be legal for not contamination etc. But can make the car runs poorly and fuel efficient can also affect. Same with resonator
Elliot J Vidal a lot of things is not necessary in cars to run, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, AC, and on Diesels alternator, headlights, horn, seats, etc. so your point being?
My hero, never seen a check engine light b4 on a new 2017 car before. But gives me joy i can wait til the weekend when im off work. Mr kilmer is the wacky old guy down the street that knows all bout vehicles to help trouble shoot.
I agree with your thoughts on this. Engine sensors do their job, and as long as the engine does it's job too, good enough! Trying to outguess a faulty sensor can be frustrating too.
Thanks Scotty! I'm one of those people you referred to that "freaks out" because my Check Engine Light has just popped on. You made me feel a lot better about it, may be something simple or something I could ignore. I'll post back what I find with ODB Scanner and tinkering.
I've learned multiple times with my own vehicles that patience can turn a crazy problem into the easiest fix ever. never go diving in taking everything apart and throwing parts at a car because most of the time it won't fix it. if an intermittent problem isn't leaving you stranded just wait
I learned one thing from my mentor, back when I was an apprentice.. Don't throw parts at a car to see if it fixes it. He never got around to actually do a diagnosis on the cars he got in. Once we had a car with the air bag warning light coming on when you drove over a bump in the road. He changed every single airbag component in the car, except for the curtains, with the same result. After a week or so, he gave up and handed it over to me (I was still an apprentice) and I found the fault in 10 minutes. The wires to the right curtain airbag was pinched between the dash and a-pillar. Cost $2 plus labor to fix it... And several thousands for all the parts we couldn't return...
Still one of my favourite UA-camrs and I have no idea why. I think it's the way you deliver information like no other. All the best! - fellow UA-camr from the UK.
Scotty, you are super knowledgeable, practical, great teacher, and lastly you wrap it all up with entertaining showmanship. Be proud, your videos will easily outlive you. Take care. - - Best, Harvey
Many times if the problem is that the gas cap needs tightening, after doing the tightening, it may take a day or so of driving for the Check Engine Light to go off (assuming the gas cap was the issue in the first place)
What I've learned, with check engine lights, ALLWAYS check the electrical connections first before replacing any parts. Lots of times it's just a loose connection that makes those stupid codes come up.
Yes, you're right! My electrical system probably got a bit wet from an undercarriage car wash and it set off the engine service soon light. According to the owners manual, it should go off once everything is dry after driving it a few times. Otherwise, the car runs fine.
scotty every video you make is helpful to many people out there, let all the haters deal with their cars breaking down and knowing nothing about turning a wrench. keep up the good work bud.
It's only the local market that makes them expensive. In Germany/France, they are everywhere, and used as Taxi cabs, and hence, every mechanic knows how to work on them and parts are everywhere. And hence, they are MORE affordable to own than non local products.
I remember hearing stories that the check engine lights where origonally programed to go on at a certain milage reguardless of engine performance because of service intervals, which is the reason why we have many different lights today.
J Bush doesnt mean its running good. It most likely is an O2 sensor and could be having the vehicle run rich so there gas mileage could be slightly effected.
Multiple Choice exactly what i am saying. if you stay on top of repairs and maintenance. You will never have those crazy 1500$ repair bills you always hear about.
Scotty Kilmer makes some interesting points about the codes behind the Check Engine Light. But the problem I had with it is different: for over a year, the check engine light was erratic in a very different way from what he describes. The car would wrong for months and thousands of miles with the light off, then it would switch on and stay on for months. After seeing this happen a few times, I finally bought myself a scan tool similar to his but not quite as fancy: it showed only DTC codes, nothing fancy. The only code it ever showed was the code for bad knock sensor. So I went to a high quality parts store and bought a new one. But by the time I was about ready to take the time to pop the hood and install it, the check engine light switched off! You can imagine how hard this made timing getting the bi-annual required smog check! But for the last year, the behavior was a little different. Instead of months on and months off, it now turns on only for a brief while: by the time I find safe place to pull over and use the scan tool, it switches off again! I finally took it in to the dealership to let them use their proprietary scan tool that reads all the proprietary codes and they still could not find anything wrong with it -- except that it still roughs and surges.
I totaled my car once to the point the engine came through the firewall about an inch. The check engine light never came on, which I thought was hilarious, but goes to show you it doesn't tell you everything
I came here for an excuse to ignore my check engine light and continue driving my 2005 Ford Focus to the ground before I buy another car. I left very satisfied.
Jimmy Kimber my mom's 2001 vw Passat wagon had a oil pump break and the hazard lights came on automatically and it said on the display screen STOP! lol but that car is looong gone
You go Scotty! I know that light doesn't always mean the car is gonna explode any second! Most people do panic when it comes on, and that spells money for dealerships. Funny how that works, huh?
I learned a long time ago that the first thing you buy if you plan to work on your own car is a OBDII reader. I picked up the Blue Driver and set up the application on my iPhone. It works well. It did have to update it's software to work correctly with my 2014 Infiniti, but once that was done, it read all the codes. This told me that my ABS light being on meant the right front wheel sensor has an issue. I'll fix it some day, but that I can live with for now. You can not 'shot gun' modern cars. You have to know exactly what codes that check engine light is throwing. As for buying an older vehicle, you'd have to go back at least three decades. Even my 1990 5.0L Mustang has an ECIV engine control module and digital multi port fuel injection coupled to four O2 sensors as well as throttle position sensors and a mass air flow sensor.
This is my 07 Yukon Denali XL. I’ve spent hundreds and I finally have just given up on it. I needed this, lol. Literally have those same p0011 timing codes.
1. Depending on the vehicle, it's not a very good idea to drive without a functional ABS, because the ABS is responsible for brake biasing. 2. The check engine light will be on every time something goes wrong with your car that stops it from regulating emissions properly. Also, for most faults, you will need at least two drives to turn the light back on. You definitely don't want to clear it, do a drive to confirm it stays off, and then your customer has it turn on during the drive back home. They won't be happy.
Short and to the point videos. Thank you so much.. Cannot stand 12-20 minute videos for 2 mins of content. A 12 min video and 10 mins is fine, but dang.
I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 and for about 2 years the check engine light occasionally and randomly flashes at extended idle but always goes away upon revving the engine and driving . Have had two different mechanics work on it and change ignition coils, plugs, reset the computer, yet it still occasionally happens. Yet other than that the car runs just fine. The last mechanic to check it out finally just said it could be a dirty sensor somewhere, a loose wire, or a glitch in the computer. He said don't worry about it unless and until the check engine light flashes while you're actually driving.
I have a 2002 Accord that I bought in 2006. To add a little proof to Scotty's information, the check engine light has been on for TEN YEARS!! I had a guy check the computer after a while to see what was wrong. He said it was an O2 sensor and a secondary vacuum leak. Like he says on here the car was running fine so I just left it alone. I found out one day that my brother in law was a mechanic back when Kmart did car repair. He had worked himself all the way up to being the southeast regional manager...so he pretty much knows what he's talking about. I posed the question to him about the problem and he asked me 3 questions: did idle ok? did it run smoothly when driving?..and was there a drop in gas milage? I told him they were all good. He said don't give it another thought unless one of those things happens. That was 5 years ago and the light is still on and it still runs fine!!
This man is a true genius. Just remember if Scott says it's ok your good. Thank you so much Scott and I wish you and your family a wonderful safe holidays. From Andres j In florida.
CEL been on for about 3 years now. I just reset the light and get the computer to 3 Outta 4 of the complete drive cycle and they legally have to pass you if the light hasn't returned. I learned that from you Scotty. I am also in Texas! I have an evap leak but car of course runs great at 210K miles!
THanks Scotty, you just gave me peace of mind. THe garage where I take my cars told me more or less the same as you are saying in this video, since my Toyota Camry has an intermittent CEL and a code related to some speed sensor in the automatic gear box. They told me to drive it and see how it feels but they considered it not serious enough to give maintenance to the gear box (which could cost me a fortune and not really needed at the moment). Car has only 60,000 miles and does not show any problem.
"Scotty you are brilliant. Like you said it could cost me thousands. I did the checks and found out that the guy at the fuel station did not screw the fuel cap on property. 😃
Great Vid. Yeah Ive know people to just put a post it not over their check engine light lol! Yeah so many times it comes on for something not serious that isn't necessary to fix right away. But its pretty awesome how far cars have come
The majority of the check engine light problems are the EVAP system. There must be about fifty parts of the EVAP system the shop can swap out, costing you each time, and each time, there will be a different code, which means they can swap out another part, and on the way home, or the next day, the CEL comes back on and they swap out another part! Two months later, you have spent several hundred dollars and the check engine light is still on! It's difficult to test the parts, since they done away with the vacuum operated parts, because that was too easy to test! The EVAP is the greatest boom for auto shops ever devised!
I've seen so many Nissans throw a code just for low oil level. Many issues people have with their vehicles it's due to poor maintenance or poor preventative maintenance rather
My F250 still has EEC, so I love sitting there with a jumper wire every time I get a code, which despite a lot of ford haters smacktalking, isn't often for me. Obd2 has been a game changer though, and being able to see right when something comes up, plus the ability to run diagnostics on something while you drive. Love it
My ABS light goes on and off. I pass inspection every year. I'm not investing in a 2002 VW Jetta. The cost of fixing a ABS sensor costs more than the car.
Scan it to find which component is bad. Although new parts are expensive, a nice day at the junk yard is cathartic. It'll likely only cost a few bucks and a lot of the components that often fail (speed sensors) are pretty easy to replace on these VW's.
Supply and demand. An Audi/VW temp sensor that commonly goes out is $3 shipped on eBay because the aftermarket caught up. I realize the quality isn't the same, but these Audi parts aren't that well-built in the first place. The same car's PCV hose is over $100 because it's OEM only. For Plastic!
Meanwhile here in 2024 the engine management warning light on my 2015 Astra J has just come on amber. Discovered that the problem was that I had done up the petrol cap too tightly. Two clicks appears to be more than tight enough it would appear. Last year the engine management came on amber again. That time it was a worn out seal on the petrol cap. Cured by replacing the petrol cap & seal on that occasion. Please check the simple stuff before panicking! Good Vid Scotty.
I liked this video, unfortunately, here in Massachusetts, a car will not pass the state inspection with a "check engine" light on. I have to be a slave to fix the "check engine" light, otherwise I cannot drive my car legally on the road around here.
Here in Louisiana, they will not inspect the car with the light on; if the inspection sticker is expired, they will issue a "rejection sticker", which is good for 20 days. You must then get the problem fixed during that time, then return to the issuing station to have the car rechecked. If the ECU hasn't performed the self-checks, they will reject it and tell you to come back in a few days. So disconnecting the battery and clearing the codes will not work. The state also tests the CEL bulb (the computer software at the testing station sends a signal to the ECU commanding it to illuminate the bulb). So the CEL bulb cannot be disabled in any way or you fail!!!
Great video. I had this happen to me, my old Saab 9-3 threw a code at 151,000 miles about 7 months ago. I checked it with a scanner (before seeing this video) and it told me of an engine misfire. I erased the codes and now approaching 164,000 it has not come back. Just one misfire - could have been bad gas for all I know. But like he said, no need to spend anything (just a scanner check).
Perfect suggestion! That's what I did. No unnecessary codes for minor issues, no silly sensors breaking, no limp mode from ECU glitches, no idle relearn bullshit, no reset codes to enter after disconnecting the battery! I truly miss 1990s technology when cars were actually built to be maintained and fixed instead of being purposely designed to fail, so manufacturers can rip customers off for profit, what a shame!
Yep, I'm still driving the same pickup truck I had when I first got my license at 16. I'm 43 now and the truck is 49 years old and I would drive it anywhere with confidence.
I need a check engine light for youtube tonight. Stop and go, stutter and stop. Wait 30 seconds, get 10 seconds of video then image freezes. Great video, and if you're like me with a 21 year old car with 173k on it, just ignore the light. It's not flashing, car still drives and shifts like a dream, so I'm not worried.
Amen to this, you can spend all kinds of money (especially at the dealership) guessing which parts need to be replaced to fix the CEL. Dealerships are dumb as hell at diagnosing problems. I had Nissan replace my MAF sensor because I had a CEL, turns out my o2 sensor banks were swapped (during my exhaust installation), they couldn't even figure that out.
1 Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery first. 2 Wait for at least 2 minutes as you turn lights on/hold down horn to drain energy from circuit 3 Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4 Start the engine and check if the check engine light is still on. 5 if still on or comes back on, reseat or clean petrol/gas cap
I had P0013 and P0014 for months on a 2010 Chevy. Over time it caused the idle RPM to go up and down pretty quick. Also caused RPMs to go up and down when only slight throttle was applied (at any speed). Was just the camshaft exhaust solenoid that went bad. Swapped it out, runs perfect now. I guess thats a pretty common problem -- the solenoids going bad on GM vehicles.
I actually do pay attention to the check engine light and I had that happen to me a few years ago when my rear o2 sensor needed to be replaced. Glad I took it into the shop right away because my flex pipe had rusted out and the car could have gotten much worse if that wasn't caught in time.
@@matmurk8536 it was steady. It was fixed and eventually the car had to be retired due to subframe corrosion. The engine outlived the car. Now I have a 2022 Hyundai Kona. Great car, all the gadgets and gizmos. And great on gas.
So Basically if the light engine turns on, don't be alarmed because it could be a minor thing as long as you hear that the engine is fine. I'm glad I watched your video because my light engine car turned on yesterday on my way to work and I was panicking but it turn off later on my way home. My car engine sounds fine. Thanks for uploading this video it helps me to relax a lot.
I just bought a 2015 Lincoln MKC with 22000 miles on it this June 2018. About a month ago it started idling rough in drive when at a complete stop. The dealer said to keep driving it till the check engine light came on because it would be easier to detect the problem. It did come on about 2 weeks ago but didn't stay on. I brought it in and they found it was a faulty fuel injector. Of course it was covered by a factory warranty that's good till 48000 miles so it didn't cost me nothing. The technician that works on those kind of problems was out sick for a couple of days and they had to order the part from Ford so it took about a week to get it back. Its been running smooth ever since. They also gave me a free loaner to drive so it didn't cost me anything for a rental. I had a 2018 Ford Edge with 1500 miles on it for the whole week while mine was being repaired. I think I bought this car from a great dealership. Anytime I bring it to them for repair or service they give me a brand new car to drive as a free loaner. And every 4th oil change is free. I love it when I don't have to pay for a repair and get to drive a new car for free.
Took my 2002 Toyota solora to the mechanic for a smog check. Car passed smog but now has the check engine light on after smog check. Geesh! Now I got to find my code reader.
In Germany, we have a safety inspection every 2 years. One of the mandatory things about such an inspection is that there have to be no lights on in the dash. And newly, also no codes stored in the ECU, so they actually hook a scan tool onto it (and may even drive it for some time). ABS codes are a no-go, because that's considered a critical safety system (after all, it helps you maintain control over the vehicle in an emergency braking situation), but also check engine codes are a no-go for various reasons like environmental safety and so on...
main dealers can be very cagey on EML lights and make you feel you must get them to diagnose your car or you could have a serious problem that is dangerous. Most often or not it is something minor and can be erased by a cheap code reader off Ebay and a little internet research. Don't be frightened by the main dealer and do it yourself, save you $$$$.superb video Scotty.
My check engine light & break light came on. I needed a tune up and it's driving way better now and got fresh brakes. I hate this nissan but it's a very reliable car
Scotty, how common is it for a vehicle to slowly leak fluid over time? I was always told the point of checking the oil, coolant, and other easily accessible fluids was because a car slowly loses them over time (aside from cleaning out old dirty fluids).
I always check the codes but like scotty said, clear them, if they dont come on after heavy driving your fine. Although i had codes on my moms yukon twice, they were quick fixes. It was a MAF sensor code (cleaned it because we have an oil air filter) and a large evap leak (gas cap was loose). Runs just fine
I always thought it would be good to have a colour changing 'check engine' light.. green for the engine problem that is not important, orange for an important problem and red for emergency problem..
I bought a new Chevy pickup check engine light has been on every since I bought it. Got 267,000 miles still rolling smooth and original motor. I've owned alot of Chevy's and check engine light is very common I've seen
Texas and Colorado a light on = auto fail...unhook battery to reset computer and the computer is "not ready" on multiple sensors = fail in both those states. Texas allows ONE sensor out of "however many it has" to be "not ready" in a 1996-current car.
I'm surprised the most likely, and like the actual concern was not even mentioned. Being a GM, and with both a P0013 and P0014, it's almost certainly the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator. They were super common, common enough, I'd consider replacing both intake and exhaust actuators if it were my vehicle, and letting my customer know the intake actuator may be needed soon if it's a customer vehicle.
Just put an off-road h pipe on my mustang which removes the catalytic converters and resonators it’s loud af and my check engine came on good thing I’m tuned it’s a great day for check engine lights everywhere
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools:
1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD
2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae
3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU
5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU
6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
Things I used in this video:
1. Actron Scan Tool: amzn.to/2ngeCQJ
2. Common Sense
3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX
4. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9
5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
6. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
7. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
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Scotty Kilmer A lot of people miss out on number 2.
Common Sense Link:
goo.gl/tm4YBa
To 1.: or get a bluetooth device for the OBD-port and Torque-App for the smartphone.
By the way, I drive also a Kappa-based car: Opel GT ;-)
Scotty Kilmer you are awesome!!!
thanks Mr!
I've gotta be honest here. I'm not a car enthusiast, but the primary reason I subscribed is 70% because of the entertainment value and 30% due to the important information your videos have. Your enthusiasm, humor and editing keeps me coming back.
You said it brody
Exactly
Yea
Shouldn't that be 3% ?
Thsnks a LOT scotty!
You saved me hundreds, maybe thousands...depending on the honesty of the mechanic.
My engine light came on, about 5 months ago....and my traction control quit, and my cruise control quit.
Long story short, i tried your first recommrndation. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
I followed your recommended time. About 8-9 minutes.
Reconnected. No indicator lights. Everything working again.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
My check engine light is on because I REV UP MY ENGINE all the time for Scotty.
Lmao good one.
Hehe underrated comment right here
FireBird-
Mine is on because it’s a Volkswagen
I Rev up my Old Limo.
I had a check engine light go on in my 2005 VW Jetta 2.5 after it had about 5000 miles on it. They fixed it twice. It's still on at 391,000 miles, and still runs great, so I guess I'm not goint to worry about it anymore.
I have a 2001 Toyota Prius with 227,000 miles on it. I was really happy to find your video to just relax and the light went on today. Check engine light. Thank you for your video. I’m definitely gonna keep watching.
Just make sure, when you do get a "check engine" light, you have good oil pressure(the oil gauge is in the normal range or the "oil" light isn't on.) I love how the repair shops advertise that "if your check engine light comes on, take it to us immediately!" So they can tell you to buy a bunch of stuff you probably don't even need!
73challenger5031 our shop doesn't advertise that way. it's the customer's responsibility to have their car looked at. you shouldn't ignore the light and at least determine why it came on. most of our customers take good care of their vehicles and don't ignore the light. not all mechanics are out to rip off customers. if we did that it wouldn't take long to get a bad reputation.
Did I say "ignore the check-engine light?" No. I was just stating that I've seen commercials that tell people to bring their car in for service when, if they want to save some money, they could do what Scott says and check the code themselves. Yes, not all mechanics are out to "rip off customers," but, as an example, I told my wife to go to the Jiffy-Lube, that I always go to, and get an oil change. She calls me from there and tells me the guy doing the oil change says her serpentine belt is on up-side down and she needs a new one! I get really pissed off because, 1. She just had her water pump replaced by a very reputable shop(that I use exclusively,) and THEY put a new belt on and 2. The damn car wouldn't run very long if the belt was upside-down anyway! So, bottom line is, if you're uneducated about how a car runs, there's always some joker trying to get you to buy stuff you don't need. I'm glad your shop doesn't do that and I'm not accusing YOU of anything. I want people to stop being lazy about informing themselves about their own cars and SOME mechanics to stop taking advantage of women!
@@Discretesignals I agree , not all mechanics will do you wrong
Check engine light comes on. Me yep engine is there
Haha
NoH8 its a joke you blithering idiot.
You're not very good at memes are you lol.
Too funny!!!
Good one!!!
3:33 he extra as hell bruh 😭🤣
Omm 🤣
😎
😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
if the check engine light goes back on after erasing the code, just use a little piece of black tape to cover it up. bye bye check engine light!
squintero213 If it starts flashing with the black tape on it, bye bye engine or catylitic converters.
lol, then we will need more tape
Catalytic converter is not even a necessary thing in cars to run as far as I know is just do to a car be legal for not contamination etc. But can make the car runs poorly and fuel efficient can also affect. Same with resonator
Elliot J Vidal a lot of things is not necessary in cars to run, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, AC, and on Diesels alternator, headlights, horn, seats, etc. so your point being?
I just took the bulb out from the gauge cluster.
My hero, never seen a check engine light b4 on a new 2017 car before. But gives me joy i can wait til the weekend when im off work.
Mr kilmer is the wacky old guy down the street that knows all bout vehicles to help trouble shoot.
I agree with your thoughts on this. Engine sensors do their job, and as long as the engine does it's job too, good enough! Trying to outguess a faulty sensor can be frustrating too.
Ram 1500s are the worst with check engine lights and tracing them down.
Thanks Scotty! I'm one of those people you referred to that "freaks out" because my Check Engine Light has just popped on. You made me feel a lot better about it, may be something simple or something I could ignore. I'll post back what I find with ODB Scanner and tinkering.
Well ? What happened to your car ? You said you’d come back & let us know ??? 6/4/24
@@HeartLess-uz5vs hope the car didn't blow up while he was "tinkering" with it
My cars engine light came on and I was flippin balls but I remembered I followed this guy. I just waited 2 days and it turned off.
I've learned multiple times with my own vehicles that patience can turn a crazy problem into the easiest fix ever. never go diving in taking everything apart and throwing parts at a car because most of the time it won't fix it. if an intermittent problem isn't leaving you stranded just wait
I learned one thing from my mentor, back when I was an apprentice.. Don't throw parts at a car to see if it fixes it.
He never got around to actually do a diagnosis on the cars he got in.
Once we had a car with the air bag warning light coming on when you drove over a bump in the road.
He changed every single airbag component in the car, except for the curtains, with the same result.
After a week or so, he gave up and handed it over to me (I was still an apprentice) and I found the fault in 10 minutes.
The wires to the right curtain airbag was pinched between the dash and a-pillar.
Cost $2 plus labor to fix it... And several thousands for all the parts we couldn't return...
Still one of my favourite UA-camrs and I have no idea why. I think it's the way you deliver information like no other. All the best! - fellow UA-camr from the UK.
MOSTLY GAS CAP SEAL ON MY OLD 2001 WINDSTAR I PUT PETROLEUM GEL ON THE SEAL EVERY NOW AND THEN. GREAT ADVICE SCOTT
True
Scotty, you are super knowledgeable, practical, great teacher, and lastly you wrap it all up with entertaining showmanship. Be proud, your videos will easily outlive you. Take care. - - Best, Harvey
A has been, providing seriously dodgy information.
@@andrewholden2768 Everyone one day become has beens, including you and I.
@@harveylgordonusa Indeed. He's just reached that stage much quicker than most!
This dude addresses cars technical issues in a simplest and funny way,I always run to his videos whenever I have problems with my car😃
Makes ya less stressed
Arguably the best UA-cam channel for car advice.
Many times if the problem is that the gas cap needs tightening, after doing the tightening, it may take a day or so of driving for the Check Engine Light to go off (assuming the gas cap was the issue in the first place)
What I've learned, with check engine lights, ALLWAYS check the electrical connections first before replacing any parts. Lots of times it's just a loose connection that makes those stupid codes come up.
RestlessJack 00 true
Thank u
Thanks I'm new to cars
Yes, you're right! My electrical system probably got a bit wet from an undercarriage car wash and it set off the engine service soon light. According to the owners manual, it should go off once everything is dry after driving it a few times. Otherwise, the car runs fine.
True
scotty every video you make is helpful to many people out there, let all the haters deal with their cars breaking down and knowing nothing about turning a wrench. keep up the good work bud.
German cars should replace the "Check Engine" message with "Time to Milk Your Wallet."
Hey, do you know a fun symbol for that?
SE45CX yah your car will have a middle finger that lights up
Over engineered money pits is all they are draft knobs who think their cool , nothing cool about them in my book
It's only the local market that makes them expensive. In Germany/France, they are everywhere, and used as Taxi cabs, and hence, every mechanic knows how to work on them and parts are everywhere. And hence, they are MORE affordable to own than non local products.
I remember hearing stories that the check engine lights where origonally programed to go on at a certain milage reguardless of engine performance because of service intervals, which is the reason why we have many different lights today.
he acts like one of us guys ! that's why I like to listen to him !
A gas cap without a seal or gasket can turn the check engine light on
EVAP leak code, yes.
My 14 Silverado gave me a message on my dash saying that it needed to be tightened.
Happened to me, the gas cap wasnt on tight enough and it turned the light on
check engine light come on
(open hood) it still there (close hood)
I know someone who's check engine light has been on for over 5yeads car still runs fine
J Bush doesnt mean its running good. It most likely is an O2 sensor and could be having the vehicle run rich so there gas mileage could be slightly effected.
J Bush mine was on for over a year with my 96 tahoe
My o2 sensor kept going off and it was a hole in the exhaust xD
mine has been on for 2+ years and still fine.
Multiple Choice exactly what i am saying. if you stay on top of repairs and maintenance. You will never have those crazy 1500$ repair bills you always hear about.
Scotty Kilmer makes some interesting points about the codes behind the Check Engine Light. But the problem I had with it is different: for over a year, the check engine light was erratic in a very different way from what he describes. The car would wrong for months and thousands of miles with the light off, then it would switch on and stay on for months. After seeing this happen a few times, I finally bought myself a scan tool similar to his but not quite as fancy: it showed only DTC codes, nothing fancy. The only code it ever showed was the code for bad knock sensor. So I went to a high quality parts store and bought a new one. But by the time I was about ready to take the time to pop the hood and install it, the check engine light switched off!
You can imagine how hard this made timing getting the bi-annual required smog check! But for the last year, the behavior was a little different. Instead of months on and months off, it now turns on only for a brief while: by the time I find safe place to pull over and use the scan tool, it switches off again!
I finally took it in to the dealership to let them use their proprietary scan tool that reads all the proprietary codes and they still could not find anything wrong with it -- except that it still roughs and surges.
I totaled my car once to the point the engine came through the firewall about an inch. The check engine light never came on, which I thought was hilarious, but goes to show you it doesn't tell you everything
TheAutoBond must've been hell of an accident
Those trees are sometimes hard to avoid! They just keep coming at you! Lol
same.
Of course it didn't. If the engine was through the firewall, you could easily check it yourself. It's right there ya lazy sumbitch.
TheAutoBond the computer thought you were already looking at it
I came here for an excuse to ignore my check engine light and continue driving my 2005 Ford Focus to the ground before I buy another car. I left very satisfied.
That last statement is what my dad always told me. Solid light-likely ok. Flashing light-bad
blinking light usually means misfire....there goes your cat converter if you dont take care of the problem.
Yellow : drive to the shop, blinking yellow: get towed to the shop.
Red: For god's sake! Stop!
panzerveps Thats good. I never heard or seen red. that must be real bad haha
Jimmy Kimber my mom's 2001 vw Passat wagon had a oil pump break and the hazard lights came on automatically and it said on the display screen STOP! lol but that car is looong gone
That is so true, when mine started blinking my car left me on the side of the road 😫
You go Scotty! I know that light doesn't always mean the car is gonna explode any second! Most people do panic when it comes on, and that spells money for dealerships. Funny how that works, huh?
Scotty you have saved my lots of money thanks for posting .i watch all your videos and you tell it like it is .keep em coming
He saving us money cos the issue doesn't get fixed :) "just take out the fuse"
@@cappaculla 😆
I learned a long time ago that the first thing you buy if you plan to work on your own
car is a OBDII reader. I picked up the Blue Driver and set up the application on
my iPhone. It works well. It did have to update it's software to work correctly
with my 2014 Infiniti, but once that was done, it read all the codes. This told
me that my ABS light being on meant the right front wheel sensor has an issue.
I'll fix it some day, but that I can live with for now. You can not 'shot gun' modern cars.
You have to know exactly what codes that check engine light is throwing.
As for buying an older vehicle, you'd have to go back at least three decades.
Even my 1990 5.0L Mustang has an ECIV engine control module and
digital multi port fuel injection coupled to four O2 sensors as well as throttle
position sensors and a mass air flow sensor.
My Czech engine light is fine, I'm Slovakian -- my wife is an Alsatian, we have a dog, it's a German Shepherd.
Oh....um.. okay cool.
Yeah ... bud, that's ... wonderful.
😂😂
Lol
This is my 07 Yukon Denali XL. I’ve spent hundreds and I finally have just given up on it. I needed this, lol. Literally have those same p0011 timing codes.
Thanks for the info
I like Scotty! Knows what he's talking about and a heck of a personality for the camera!
1. Depending on the vehicle, it's not a very good idea to drive without a functional ABS, because the ABS is responsible for brake biasing.
2. The check engine light will be on every time something goes wrong with your car that stops it from regulating emissions properly. Also, for most faults, you will need at least two drives to turn the light back on. You definitely don't want to clear it, do a drive to confirm it stays off, and then your customer has it turn on during the drive back home. They won't be happy.
The air is no cleaner today than it was in the 1950s.
@@marblox9300 Which is a good thing, considering how many more cars are on the roads today.
@@CristiNeagu I guess my point flew right over your head.
@@marblox9300 Or maybe my point flew right over yours.
Short and to the point videos. Thank you so much.. Cannot stand 12-20 minute videos for 2 mins of content. A 12 min video and 10 mins is fine, but dang.
I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 and for about 2 years the check engine light occasionally and randomly flashes at extended idle but always goes away upon revving the engine and driving . Have had two different mechanics work on it and change ignition coils, plugs, reset the computer, yet it still occasionally happens. Yet other than that the car runs just fine. The last mechanic to check it out finally just said it could be a dirty sensor somewhere, a loose wire, or a glitch in the computer. He said don't worry about it unless and until the check engine light flashes while you're actually driving.
I have a 2002 Accord that I bought in 2006. To add a little proof to Scotty's information, the check engine light has been on for TEN YEARS!! I had a guy check the computer after a while to see what was wrong. He said it was an O2 sensor and a secondary vacuum leak. Like he says on here the car was running fine so I just left it alone. I found out one day that my brother in law was a mechanic back when Kmart did car repair. He had worked himself all the way up to being the southeast regional manager...so he pretty much knows what he's talking about. I posed the question to him about the problem and he asked me 3 questions: did idle ok? did it run smoothly when driving?..and was there a drop in gas milage? I told him they were all good. He said don't give it another thought unless one of those things happens. That was 5 years ago and the light is still on and it still runs fine!!
The only time I notice my check engine light is when it shuts off.
This man is a true genius. Just remember if Scott says it's ok your good. Thank you so much Scott and I wish you and your family a wonderful safe holidays. From Andres j
In florida.
My engine light was on for over 5 years now and the car is still fine🙂
Wow lol
Do you even know what DTCs it has stored?
Wtf 😳
same here
Lmaooo that’s funny
CEL been on for about 3 years now. I just reset the light and get the computer to 3 Outta 4 of the complete drive cycle and they legally have to pass you if the light hasn't returned. I learned that from you Scotty. I am also in Texas! I have an evap leak but car of course runs great at 210K miles!
my '04 tacoma has had the check engine light on for roughly 59k miles, since it had about 1k miles. that's one quality bulb, i tell ya.
Yep. Toyota bulbs are the most reliable....
This has made me so happy today. Your energy is electric ⚡. I feel better now about getting the codes for my check engine light 🙂.
Can I use cigar smoke the check my codes?
lmao i just watched that video too
I wanted to test that so I poked a hole in a vacuum line on my car and had like 5 cigarettes and blew them into a hose and it actually worked.
THanks Scotty, you just gave me peace of mind. THe garage where I take my cars told me more or less the same as you are saying in this video, since my Toyota Camry has an intermittent CEL and a code related to some speed sensor in the automatic gear box. They told me to drive it and see how it feels but they considered it not serious enough to give maintenance to the gear box (which could cost me a fortune and not really needed at the moment). Car has only 60,000 miles and does not show any problem.
"Scotty you are brilliant. Like you said it could cost me thousands. I did the checks and found out that the guy at the fuel station did not screw the fuel cap on property. 😃
Great Vid. Yeah Ive know people to just put a post it not over their check engine light lol! Yeah so many times it comes on for something not serious that isn't necessary to fix right away. But its pretty awesome how far cars have come
The majority of the check engine light problems are the EVAP system. There must be about fifty parts of the EVAP system the shop can swap out, costing you each time, and each time, there will be a different code, which means they can swap out another part, and on the way home, or the next day, the CEL comes back on and they swap out another part! Two months later, you have spent several hundred dollars and the check engine light is still on! It's difficult to test the parts, since they done away with the vacuum operated parts, because that was too easy to test! The EVAP is the greatest boom for auto shops ever devised!
I'm big on asking the customer if the "change driver" light came on. That gets some great responses!
I've seen so many Nissans throw a code just for low oil level. Many issues people have with their vehicles it's due to poor maintenance or poor preventative maintenance rather
My F250 still has EEC, so I love sitting there with a jumper wire every time I get a code, which despite a lot of ford haters smacktalking, isn't often for me. Obd2 has been a game changer though, and being able to see right when something comes up, plus the ability to run diagnostics on something while you drive. Love it
My ABS light goes on and off. I pass inspection every year. I'm not investing in a 2002 VW Jetta. The cost of fixing a ABS sensor costs more than the car.
Scan it to find which component is bad. Although new parts are expensive, a nice day at the junk yard is cathartic. It'll likely only cost a few bucks and a lot of the components that often fail (speed sensors) are pretty easy to replace on these VW's.
Supply and demand. An Audi/VW temp sensor that commonly goes out is $3 shipped on eBay because the aftermarket caught up. I realize the quality isn't the same, but these Audi parts aren't that well-built in the first place. The same car's PCV hose is over $100 because it's OEM only. For Plastic!
I got my sensor for 7 bucks on ebay works like a charm on my 02 jetta
I like this guy, he's very educated and gives good advice about cars. Plus a fun personality.
I fixed my check engine light on my wifes Subaru. I took the light bulb out.
Mhm...
Check engine light on, crankshaft sensor code on. A very good mechanic that states that's not the problem!
Haha, love the subtle dig @0:35
Meanwhile here in 2024 the engine management warning light on my 2015 Astra J has just come on amber. Discovered that the problem was that I had done up the petrol cap too tightly. Two clicks appears to be more than tight enough it would appear.
Last year the engine management came on amber again. That time it was a worn out seal on the petrol cap.
Cured by replacing the petrol cap & seal on that occasion.
Please check the simple stuff before panicking!
Good Vid Scotty.
I liked this video, unfortunately, here in Massachusetts, a car will not pass the state inspection with a "check engine" light on. I have to be a slave to fix the "check engine" light, otherwise I cannot drive my car legally on the road around here.
Akiko Maki I'd move to another state!
Here in Louisiana, they will not inspect the car with the light on; if the inspection sticker is expired, they will issue a "rejection sticker", which is good for 20 days. You must then get the problem fixed during that time, then return to the issuing station to have the car rechecked. If the ECU hasn't performed the self-checks, they will reject it and tell you to come back in a few days. So disconnecting the battery and clearing the codes will not work. The state also tests the CEL bulb (the computer software at the testing station sends a signal to the ECU commanding it to illuminate the bulb). So the CEL bulb cannot be disabled in any way or you fail!!!
Get a Mexican that pass you the inspection for $75 dollars 💵😂
put a piece of black tape over light , ha !
Easy fix, disconnect the car battery then reconnect it. This will reset the computer, engine light will go off for a period of time.
Great video. I had this happen to me, my old Saab 9-3 threw a code at 151,000 miles about 7 months ago. I checked it with a scanner (before seeing this video) and it told me of an engine misfire. I erased the codes and now approaching 164,000 it has not come back. Just one misfire - could have been bad gas for all I know. But like he said, no need to spend anything (just a scanner check).
Or just buy an older vehicle that doesn't have all that unnecessary stuff in the first place.
luke Fugate amen
luke Fugate I prefer disc brakes and abs. they stop much better and are easier to replace
Perfect suggestion! That's what I did. No unnecessary codes for minor issues, no silly sensors breaking, no limp mode from ECU glitches, no idle relearn bullshit, no reset codes to enter after disconnecting the battery! I truly miss 1990s technology when cars were actually built to be maintained and fixed instead of being purposely designed to fail, so manufacturers can rip customers off for profit, what a shame!
Yep, I'm still driving the same pickup truck I had when I first got my license at 16. I'm 43 now and the truck is 49 years old and I would drive it anywhere with confidence.
luke Fugate I daily drive a 1972 Dodge Dart swinger
I need a check engine light for youtube tonight. Stop and go, stutter and stop. Wait 30 seconds, get 10 seconds of video then image freezes. Great video, and if you're like me with a 21 year old car with 173k on it, just ignore the light. It's not flashing, car still drives and shifts like a dream, so I'm not worried.
Amen to this, you can spend all kinds of money (especially at the dealership) guessing which parts need to be replaced to fix the CEL. Dealerships are dumb as hell at diagnosing problems. I had Nissan replace my MAF sensor because I had a CEL, turns out my o2 sensor banks were swapped (during my exhaust installation), they couldn't even figure that out.
Congrats on hitting 4 Mil scotty
"check engine light" comes on : go to your local mechanic, place your wallet on the table & drop your trousers
Lube or without lube lol 😆
Bruh
xd
1 Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery first.
2 Wait for at least 2 minutes as you turn lights on/hold down horn to drain energy from circuit
3 Reconnect the negative cable to the battery.
4 Start the engine and check if the check engine light is still on.
5 if still on or comes back on, reseat or clean petrol/gas cap
I had P0013 and P0014 for months on a 2010 Chevy. Over time it caused the idle RPM to go up and down pretty quick. Also caused RPMs to go up and down when only slight throttle was applied (at any speed). Was just the camshaft exhaust solenoid that went bad. Swapped it out, runs perfect now. I guess thats a pretty common problem -- the solenoids going bad on GM vehicles.
I love it! The check engine light is nothing but an anxiety tool! I miss my old Jeep grand Cherokee!
I actually do pay attention to the check engine light and I had that happen to me a few years ago when my rear o2 sensor needed to be replaced. Glad I took it into the shop right away because my flex pipe had rusted out and the car could have gotten much worse if that wasn't caught in time.
Was it flashing or steady?
@@matmurk8536 it was steady. It was fixed and eventually the car had to be retired due to subframe corrosion. The engine outlived the car. Now I have a 2022 Hyundai Kona. Great car, all the gadgets and gizmos. And great on gas.
My check engine light has been on for the last 200,000 miles on my Nissan Frontier.Runs great.
Stev Mayse there aren't any.S.C.
So Basically if the light engine turns on, don't be alarmed because it could be a minor thing as long as you hear that the engine is fine.
I'm glad I watched your video because my light engine car turned on yesterday on my way to work and I was panicking but it turn off later on my way home. My car engine sounds fine.
Thanks for uploading this video it helps me to relax a lot.
I just bought a 2015 Lincoln MKC with 22000 miles on it this June 2018. About a month ago it started idling rough in drive when at a complete stop. The dealer said to keep driving it till the check engine light came on because it would be easier to detect the problem. It did come on about 2 weeks ago but didn't stay on. I brought it in and they found it was a faulty fuel injector. Of course it was covered by a factory warranty that's good till 48000 miles so it didn't cost me nothing. The technician that works on those kind of problems was out sick for a couple of days and they had to order the part from Ford so it took about a week to get it back. Its been running smooth ever since. They also gave me a free loaner to drive so it didn't cost me anything for a rental. I had a 2018 Ford Edge with 1500 miles on it for the whole week while mine was being repaired. I think I bought this car from a great dealership. Anytime I bring it to them for repair or service they give me a brand new car to drive as a free loaner. And every 4th oil change is free. I love it when I don't have to pay for a repair and get to drive a new car for free.
It's not only about you, It's also about car inspections and emissions tests of the state that you living in.
yes and its about them making a living off you...
Took my 2002 Toyota solora to the mechanic for a smog check. Car passed smog but now has the check engine light on after smog check. Geesh! Now I got to find my code reader.
Your work is appreciated, Scotty. Thank you for this.
The best mechanic in planet earth
In Germany, we have a safety inspection every 2 years. One of the mandatory things about such an inspection is that there have to be no lights on in the dash. And newly, also no codes stored in the ECU, so they actually hook a scan tool onto it (and may even drive it for some time). ABS codes are a no-go, because that's considered a critical safety system (after all, it helps you maintain control over the vehicle in an emergency braking situation), but also check engine codes are a no-go for various reasons like environmental safety and so on...
main dealers can be very cagey on EML lights and make you feel you must get them to diagnose your car or you could have a serious problem that is dangerous. Most often or not it is something minor and can be erased by a cheap code reader off Ebay and a little internet research. Don't be frightened by the main dealer and do it yourself, save you $$$$.superb video Scotty.
I love this guy.. very informative, direct to the point.
My check engine light & break light came on. I needed a tune up and it's driving way better now and got fresh brakes. I hate this nissan but it's a very reliable car
Scotty, how common is it for a vehicle to slowly leak fluid over time? I was always told the point of checking the oil, coolant, and other easily accessible fluids was because a car slowly loses them over time (aside from cleaning out old dirty fluids).
The way you can tell when a Ford needs oil is it stops leaking.
I always check the codes but like scotty said, clear them, if they dont come on after heavy driving your fine. Although i had codes on my moms yukon twice, they were quick fixes. It was a MAF sensor code (cleaned it because we have an oil air filter) and a large evap leak (gas cap was loose). Runs just fine
This guys intro makes me laugh 😂
Outro as well
Saaaaaaaaaab
My too. Scotty is a riot and he gives good advice. It's all good.
SKRTTTTT
Did not know the ABS system has a fuse. . . thanks Scotty!!! Will be disconnecting mine ASAP!!!
I always thought it would be good to have a colour changing 'check engine' light.. green for the engine problem that is not important, orange for an important problem and red for emergency problem..
I totally agree to this.
Had a 1998 Mazda protege that check engine light came on about 2001. Drove it 22100 miles and it ran fine.
Why am I just now finding this channel!
I bought a new Chevy pickup check engine light has been on every since I bought it. Got 267,000 miles still rolling smooth and original motor. I've owned alot of Chevy's and check engine light is very common I've seen
In some states you can't get your emission testing done with the check engine light on.. You'll have to address the issue.
California is one. A lit check engine light is automatic failure.
Texas and Colorado a light on = auto fail...unhook battery to reset computer and the computer is "not ready" on multiple sensors = fail in both those states. Texas allows ONE sensor out of "however many it has" to be "not ready" in a 1996-current car.
And surprisingly, in Scotty's hometown of Houston, TX! Surprised he didn't mention emissions testing.
You can just use a private inspection joint, and give their pant antler a cooch for their troubles.
Yep, California. California sucks. My transmission solenoids going bad and throwing up a light has nothing to do with emissions, but here we are.
I'm surprised the most likely, and like the actual concern was not even mentioned. Being a GM, and with both a P0013 and P0014, it's almost certainly the Exhaust Camshaft Actuator. They were super common, common enough, I'd consider replacing both intake and exhaust actuators if it were my vehicle, and letting my customer know the intake actuator may be needed soon if it's a customer vehicle.
I can only imagine what this guy looks like filming in these weird angles haha
that is ...very good advice....need to wait for that check engine to really stay-on to troubleshoot easier without spending a lot of money.
I love you Scotty, that hair is just amazing, stunning.
Just put an off-road h pipe on my mustang which removes the catalytic converters and resonators it’s loud af and my check engine came on good thing I’m tuned it’s a great day for check engine lights everywhere