@TheTongMan I recommend amsoil over mobil 1. You'll definitely see a huge improvement. Get the signature series. Amsoil, motul and a couple others are 100% synthetic vs full synthetic which is still mostly conventional oil. When I got mybwrx tuned I felt a huge difference, when I switched to amsoil it felt like I got a new tune, everything just worked so much better and it felt like the motor was freed of so much restriction from friction.
The trick to fix the ethanol scent and water residue on oil is to use a external breather with oil catch. That will eliminate the water looking byproduct of the ethanol. I run my breather filterless and replace the filter for a hose to allow the water to evaporate easier.
Hi man! i have an 8th civic with kraftwerks setup. I have an oil temp gauge and when you push the car to its limits the oil gets very hot. That its why you see that too. I put mobil 5w30 like you but with sc i think we have to put 0w40 or something like that
What you're smelling is fuel dilution of the oil. If you can smell it the fuel dilution is probably too high? You're right about changing the oil more frequently... as that's one way to compensate for fuel dilution. I'm getting a fuel dilution problem in a 2015 Toyota Yaris running E10 (10% ethanol). The problem only started when E10 was used (3% dilution rising to 5% dilution when E10 use increased)... and decreased (2%) when E10 was reduced N.B. Prior to E10 use fuel dilution was 0%. The normal change intervals for a Yaris are 10,000 km but the engine wear has not been affected (doing an oil analysis so easy to track this)... so the oil hasn't been changed more frequently to compensate. At 2% and 3% fuel dilution the oil analysis report comes with a warning but at 5% the report warns of the risk of a fire. The next oil change I'll run the whole 10,000 km without any E10 and see if the number drops back to 0% fuel dilution. :-)
I used xcelplus (a single application metal treatment) to improve lubrication... and this is why the engine wear hasn't increased. Otherwise the reduced viscosity of the oil and the increased acids in the engine would have accelerated wear. My dealer didn't mention anything about more frequent oil changes when using ethanol fuel... and neither did Toyota. I'll have to quiz them about this. N.B. Typically E10 is considered not to affect the properties of the oil as it's only a small amount of ethanol. :-)
Which kind of oil do you run dude? i am running motul atm and i am tuned on 91octane, but i am switching to 94 octane real soon 20 more hp just by switching the gas lol!
+TheTongMan Nice guy i am going to try that oil for the next oil change... i hav enot herd of those hamp oil fliters before... OEM tranny fluid is a must!! OEM ALL DAY!
+TheTongMan The viscosity of engine oil is designed to work with the tolerances and clearances that the engine is built for and the design of the egr system to keep up with crankcase pressure and heat. It is designed to work with in a certain range of heat and crankcase pressure. When you boost an N/A car a car that was not designed for it you have to compensate many times bc of increase in TDP, heat, friction, crankcase pressure and blow by. Factory weight spec oil was not design "in this car" with boost this in mind, the egr system in that car is overwhelmed by boost sooo crankcase pressure and heat go up thats why many times peoples ring lands go out. The oil becomes unstable and losses its ability to fight friction. Thats why all N/A cars when you boost them need an oil catch can really bc the oil and egr system is past it's rate of operation in that particular car. Also the way the ring lands and oil system are designed in turbo and n/a car is totally different. You can have ring lands that control 5w30 in n/a not be good at controlling that weight oil in turbo app there fore having too much blow by which sound like what is happening. But a turbo motor pistons, oil system, egr that is designed from scratch to control blow by with 5w30 is a different story. You can't compare Turbo and N/A motors there are designed with difference tolerances, clearances, ect... On N/A Turbo cars I aways recommend a little thinker weight oil (this will help piston seal "blow by"), oil catch can(releases too much crank case pressure, happy ring lands, reduce excess oil pressure), oil cooler and bigger pan. Oil Temp and Oil pressure gauges are your friend.
+TheTongMan Hey man im about to buy a hybrid cai for my fa5. Im staying normally aspirated. Im aiming for skunk2 intake manifold, with the j37 tb or skunk2 pro series tb, not sure yet for throttle body. Now im wondering what is better? The skunk2 CAI OR hybrid CAI???? Appreciate the feedback
+TheTongMan kay! What about tb?? Which is better? J37 or the skunk2 tb?? The j37 has a 70mm output and the skunk2 has 72mm output?? Think the 2mm make any difference???
All cars have blow by but the alcohol in the E85 breaks down engine oil faster BC its alcohol based and you have to use about 2 times as much there for increasing its ability to make it through combustion. This why its also really important to especially not run to rich on E85 BC you are already using 2 times+ the amount of fuel.
What oil and filter are you running? I personally like Mobil one but want to see is there's anything better?
+Pedro Contreras I use mobil1 5w30 as well. lots of people recommend amsoil and torco, but I've been doing fine on mobil1
@TheTongMan I recommend amsoil over mobil 1. You'll definitely see a huge improvement. Get the signature series. Amsoil, motul and a couple others are 100% synthetic vs full synthetic which is still mostly conventional oil.
When I got mybwrx tuned I felt a huge difference, when I switched to amsoil it felt like I got a new tune, everything just worked so much better and it felt like the motor was freed of so much restriction from friction.
The trick to fix the ethanol scent and water residue on oil is to use a external breather with oil catch. That will eliminate the water looking byproduct of the ethanol. I run my breather filterless and replace the filter for a hose to allow the water to evaporate easier.
have you looked into maybe an oil cooler with a relocated filter? - that sucks to get to - almost as bad as a 4Runner 3VZE
Hi man! i have an 8th civic with kraftwerks setup. I have an oil temp gauge and when you push the car to its limits the oil gets very hot. That its why you see that too. I put mobil 5w30 like you but with sc i think we have to put 0w40 or something like that
Might want to install an oil cooler with an thermostatic switch to keep your oil temp in check.
What you're smelling is fuel dilution of the oil. If you can smell it the fuel dilution is probably too high? You're right about changing the oil more frequently... as that's one way to compensate for fuel dilution.
I'm getting a fuel dilution problem in a 2015 Toyota Yaris running E10 (10% ethanol). The problem only started when E10 was used (3% dilution rising to 5% dilution when E10 use increased)... and decreased (2%) when E10 was reduced N.B. Prior to E10 use fuel dilution was 0%.
The normal change intervals for a Yaris are 10,000 km but the engine wear has not been affected (doing an oil analysis so easy to track this)... so the oil hasn't been changed more frequently to compensate.
At 2% and 3% fuel dilution the oil analysis report comes with a warning but at 5% the report warns of the risk of a fire.
The next oil change I'll run the whole 10,000 km without any E10 and see if the number drops back to 0% fuel dilution.
:-)
I used xcelplus (a single application metal treatment) to improve lubrication... and this is why the engine wear hasn't increased. Otherwise the reduced viscosity of the oil and the increased acids in the engine would have accelerated wear.
My dealer didn't mention anything about more frequent oil changes when using ethanol fuel... and neither did Toyota. I'll have to quiz them about this.
N.B. Typically E10 is considered not to affect the properties of the oil as it's only a small amount of ethanol.
:-)
Hey Tong besides our feul sender getting corroded will anything else get corroded like feul lines or engine parts running on e85?
+454Movement none other from what I gathered from other 8th civics running e85
TheTongMan Alright thanks brother hope to me up with you whenever you host a meet up in Sac.
I am. this saturday oct 17th is our race wars
What oil weight are you using with E85? Did you notice if the old oil looks saturated with water? Like the oil seems thinner if you touch it ?
Hey what car is that
K thanks keep the video coming still waiting to see u run the kraftwerks supercharge si
Hey got a question for u do u know if u running flash pro for 8th gen si how do u get the New York State inspection done if u on boost
+MARK HUSSAIN I don't know anything about New York. I would suggest, unlock the flashpro and go back to the stock map
Which kind of oil do you run dude? i am running motul atm and i am tuned on 91octane, but i am switching to 94 octane real soon 20 more hp just by switching the gas lol!
+Werks Guy i use mobil1 5w30 and a hamp oil filter; the oem manual transmission fluid from honda for my transmission
+TheTongMan Nice guy i am going to try that oil for the next oil change... i hav enot herd of those hamp oil fliters before... OEM tranny fluid is a must!! OEM ALL DAY!
Using I little bit thicker oil will help with blow by. 5w30 was spec for NA on this car with boost I would run thicker and oil cooler.
+Rambito i think the evo x run on 5w30 and it's a 2.0L turbo setup
+TheTongMan The viscosity of engine oil is designed to work with the tolerances and clearances that the engine is built for and the design of the egr system to keep up with crankcase pressure and heat. It is designed to work with in a certain range of heat and crankcase pressure. When you boost an N/A car a car that was not designed for it you have to compensate many times bc of increase in TDP, heat, friction, crankcase pressure and blow by. Factory weight spec oil was not design "in this car" with boost this in mind, the egr system in that car is overwhelmed by boost sooo crankcase pressure and heat go up thats why many times peoples ring lands go out. The oil becomes unstable and losses its ability to fight friction. Thats why all N/A cars when you boost them need an oil catch can really bc the oil and egr system is past it's rate of operation in that particular car. Also the way the ring lands and oil system are designed in turbo and n/a car is totally different. You can have ring lands that control 5w30 in n/a not be good at controlling that weight oil in turbo app there fore having too much blow by which sound like what is happening. But a turbo motor pistons, oil system, egr that is designed from scratch to control blow by with 5w30 is a different story. You can't compare Turbo and N/A motors there are designed with difference tolerances, clearances, ect...
On N/A Turbo cars I aways recommend a little thinker weight oil (this will help piston seal "blow by"), oil catch can(releases too much crank case pressure, happy ring lands, reduce excess oil pressure), oil cooler and bigger pan. Oil Temp and Oil pressure gauges are your friend.
Great video!!
your hood prop works with a after cooler?
+Joshua Talaro yes it still works
Omg I have a 9th gen si and the oil filter is way easier to get to lol
+Adam Miller my crv has the same k24z7 engine and the oil filter is right next to the oil drain plug...way more convenient
Tong man, why did you take off the hybrid racing cai and go back to the skunk 2 cai?
Which one was better? Thanks!
+Ryan Perez I liked the skunk2 intake over the hybrid racing intake. I want my intake to be a solid pipe than just a silicone hose.
+TheTongMan Hey man im about to buy a hybrid cai for my fa5. Im staying normally aspirated. Im aiming for skunk2 intake manifold, with the j37 tb or skunk2 pro series tb, not sure yet for throttle body. Now im wondering what is better? The skunk2 CAI OR hybrid CAI????
Appreciate the feedback
either will make the same power
+TheTongMan kay! What about tb?? Which is better? J37 or the skunk2 tb?? The j37 has a 70mm output and the skunk2 has 72mm output?? Think the 2mm make any difference???
whichever one you get, just make sure your intake manifold is ported to match the throttle body output to take full advantage of the size
All cars have blow by but the alcohol in the E85 breaks down engine oil faster BC its alcohol based and you have to use about 2 times as much there for increasing its ability to make it through combustion. This why its also really important to especially not run to rich on E85 BC you are already using 2 times+ the amount of fuel.
+Rambito good info. thanks.