Hi Jim, He is currently making an adapter to mount a Maho 500 vertical spindle on his Index horizontal mill. It will have gearing to increase the RPM at the vertical spindle. Fantastic project.
@RotarySMP It's funny. When I think of Malta I don't think of machining or industry. I think of the Maltese Cross, a beautiful vacation spot and fluffy little white dogs. 😄 I know very little of their language & culture. There's certainly a lot going on in a nation younger than I am
@@jimurrata6785 Nation younger than you Jim? I think of Malta as ancient, so I had to fact check that. You are right, they only got independence (returned to them) in 1964, but have been inhabited since at least 5600bc :) I am not sure how much industry they have (they are batting way above average in aviation, due to some attractive tax breaks on aircrew not stationed on the island), but Luke's is a hobby machine shop like mine.
I never would have guessed that lubing bearings could be so technical. I'll think of this every time I pull out my grease gun loaded with mystery grease.
@@RotarySMPRob sometimes goes overboard with things. It’s better to overdo it than under-do it, so I understand. I try to stay within manufacturer’s specs. Sometimes it can’t be done, however.
Always enjoy watching your stuff Mark! My dad walked in while you were measuring the integral bearings and I got to explain what you're doing, so thank you for that! Merry Christmas
All right, a noiseless spindle! 👍👍👍 Splendid execution, Mark. I hope Robin tunes in to see his pointers put into practice. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs. ! 🎄
What a great video. Hole crap, I had no idea of all the intricacies of precision bearing, grease volume bearing alignment. As a quality engineer, I am blown away by the 5.000mm rollers.
I've been using the same three Snap-on clicker torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") for 50 years with no failures and no errors. You should expect similar life from your new one. I have three suggestions: 1) unload the setting spindle when finished, 2) keep it out of the dirt, and 3) don't throw them on the floor.
I've watched people from GROB (giant german CNC and automation producer) doing some service on a CNC machine and they were - using hard tallow for greasing the screws (they greased absolutely every screw and torqued it to spec - I checked their numbers and pretty general torque values), stoned every surface with their stone (they were def not precision ground stones - they felt normal to the touch so they were not ground, every technician had also a big degusit ruby stone), every mounting surface goat coated in a thick oil (i think their bottle said Coro X or something like that), they coated every spring mechanism with Kluber NBU 15 (technician took a big package of Kluber and smeared every spring with it). As far as other product they used - they used normal range of Loctite sprays (cleaning 7064, 8021 for general oiling). Also glues red Loctite 222 for gas cylinders, blue 243 for general, green one for dowels that got loose, and white one for lubrication fittings). Yea I spy on all technicians I see and write everything down.
Have you got any more notes from the Grob guys? I learned at Mag IAS GmbH (you may know it as EX-CELL-O or Böhringer) and have a similar rutine. Different brand of cleaner and Oil, but same kind of meticulacy (??? is it written that way?). I continued studying and got into a pretty hard argument with the professors about oiling screws and such. Greetings from Germany.
@@RotarySMP What I don't get is the tallow thing (Rinderfett). I mean according to internet with the discovery of synthetic greases, nobody was using it anymore. But then again GROB is an ancient company that has been supplying the NAZI war machine, had forced labor from war prisoners and stuff. They like nostalgia or whatever :D
@@chronokoks When I was a kid, my dad had a can of Res-q-steel anti seize. He was certain it was made with whale oil , and that this was the secret sauce which made it the perfect lubricant. Sometimes these things can be quite irrational.
Spectacular. Hope you are spending some time with family now that you have the mill sounding less crunchy... =D Happy Sunday! ~Mike. Thanks for posting!
wooooooooooooooooo yess it's alive 🎉. you dodged a very expensive repair. And finally no more guessing on inner diameters😊 what a nice present or welcome to the rabbit-hole of internal bore gauges. thank you for this spindle rebuilt you did a really nice job.
It was hilarious to see my comment about ultrasonic cleaning bearings on your comment montage. I think I was extremely diplomatic, and with a complete lack of profanity! ;-)
At 30:50 I'm thinking: "what is that arm even for?", then at 31:40 aha! The most impressive bit is at 24:30 when you clock the bearings with a 'tenths' indicator. I think that vindicates the decision to keep the existing bearings. - Heather
I work with optics and I can assure you that Kimwipes are NOT lint-free by any stretch of the imagination. I was really surprised when Rob suggested their use. However, the fibers they leave behind should be fairly innocuous in small quantities.
I was half expecting Mark to edit in a sound like a car engine with a loud bottom end knock for the first start up, then saying "Just kidding" before k1lling the sound effect. 😁
I think this is the latest I've ever watched one of your videos on a Sunday! Glad to see everything worked out well. Please don't crash the Maho again, I remember that, it hurt! Shudder. Merry Xmas and a great New Year, Mark. Cheers.
Gosh!! Bearings are way more complicated than I ever thought! That is really interesting Mark, thank you. We had a bearing on a swing out wire winch that occasionally burst. It was being used as a wheel so the outside of the bearing was not supported except where it pressed against the mounting pillar. I think it was a sealed bearing but i'm wondering now if it should have been greased or if the odd grain of sand made its way in the cause the burst. Hope you and yours have a marvellous holiday time Mark and thanks for the videos throughout the year.
Great video as always Mark! 👍👍 I didn't realize bearings needed such a precise application of grease, looks like I've been doing it wrong for quite a while lol. I'm looking forward to seeing your new Bore Micrometer from Luke in action in a future video, it looks like a nice piece of equipment.
Providing that the surplus grease has somewhere to go. thats not really the case with stacked together bearings , and if the bearing manufacter recommends it, why not follow that recommendation.
I think youve done a really good job and eliminated the cause by replacing those preload screws. Given the usage this is way more than good enough. 4000rpm was a breakneck speed back then. If you ever have a problem again you now know its intestines and can do it four times as fast ;)
@@RotarySMP I may have missed it, but did you measure the old screws to determine they had in fact been stretched? In any case replacing them was cheap insurance.
Brilliant video, brilliant outcome! Of course the proof is in the first cut, but that sounds so much better! Have a good Christmas, and don't forget to take time off from the workshop to drink too much and overeat! Have a good one, Phil, PS, I am back at it and have a new video out! Feeling almost totally recovered! Phil Whitley, My week this week, on UA-cam!
The condition of the fastener affects the results much more than the torque after the decimal point. Dry vs. A really good lubricant there's a huge difference and the condition of the thread should be specified in critical applications. I took a gamble with Volvo head bolts that were supposed to be dipped in anti-rust agent and let to dry and I just oiled them but I got away with it thankfully. I imagine they are now a little bit overtight but they didn't snap so I'm good. I used the old bolts and I ran a tap through the holes and a die through the bolts, I even had to buy new taps&dies because it was an M11 thread, never seen those before.
had an idea for the quill, since you don't keep the handle on maybe make a cap with a neodymium magnet in it, that way you can put it on and take it off quickly, without worrying about it falling off. you just have to get the right strength magnet.
what a great parcel from Luke. I did not see any setting rings ? unfortunately they are essential. One of my co-workers told me that he had a conversation with a Mahr-Federal engineer . They considers bore gages to truely accurate only at the setting ring size . That is why in a machine shop or production shop, bore gage setting rings are made to the exact dimension. Mitutoyo will no doubt tell you what the reliable measuring range is.
Hi Steve, I have a huge box of what appears to be gauge rings I got with the Boley. I need to start checking them and see. Compared to my telescoping gauges, these much be better :)
@@RotarySMP Do you know anyone with a bore gauge and setting rings? have them measured (Boley rings) ,and have measure marked on the rings. Its a start. Those mitutoyo gauges can be preset with the bore diameter ie if the ring measures 19.996mm (Mitutoyo 177-286 Setting Ring) you preset the gauge to display that. What often happens in production , the ring is exact dimension and the gauge is set to "0" now the operator only cares about +/- from that dimension.
We go to agricultural suppliers like Mole Valley Farmers for syringes to use for 'non veterinary' purposes! Having replaced numerous wheel bearings (those for tractors can be massive) it is interesting to see these precision bearings where those for the cutting end are integral to remove two metal on metal joints & the ones at the top deal with the axial loads, but no rubber grease seals, yet grease doesn't leak out presumably?
I'm sure it's been pointed out elsewhere, but you've lubed 2 things that don't need it; the bearing preload cap (which should only be in contact with the 100% absolutely static outer cages of the bearings), and far more critically, the spindle where you're mounting the 4 ABEC bearings. That fitting should, IMO, 100% absolutely not be lubricated at all. You really, really, really don't want the inner cages of those bearings spinning on the spindle. So unless the Maho docs say otherwise, I'd say thats a pretty big no-no. For lubing the nose bearings, I'd probably have gone the Schaublin route - dissolve grease in white gas, immerse bearings, pul bearings, allow solvent to flash off. But I don't see any problem with the way you did it. Very nice result, in any case.
Thanks for the sanity check on what I did. I hope I don't get any problems from the lubes inner race. Robin Renzetti did it to prevent fretting corrosion.
As far as I know INA still makes all kinds of rollers and needles for bearings which are available at bearing stores but I am not sure of the tolerances they have. As they aren't that expensive, you could just order like 50 of them and pick the best matched ones. No need in your case I suppose but in case you will need them in the future.
Nice vid Mark. After reading the comments im now confused about kluber nbu 15. Is it the good stuff or not? I'll keep using using it on my bicycle pedals anyway as ive got a 1 kg tin of the stuff. Merry Christmas
Great it all went together well. A shame you had to use NBU-15 though it will need refreshment in a couple of years as it breaks down over time. Have a great Christmas...
@@rcdieselrc I used to repair and maintain machine tools as a job for about 30 years. Off the top of my head brands and often different models inside such, Nakimura, ,Okuma, Mazak Moriseki, Okk, Chiron, Fadal, Hass, Brother, Victor, Daewoo and several others. Done spindle rebuilds in lathes and mills and most other repairs in every brand I listed and others I didnt. Also many one off special purpose machines Some CNC controlled some not. The NBU comment was base on observation and the use by date printed on tins of NBU-15. The beauty of the stuff is it works well in almost anything the problem is how long it lasts. Im not claiming to be an expert but I do know my way around a machine tool. I got the scars and broken marriage to prove it LOL. My goto was usally an SKF grease when needed type I dont remember the exact one as it often changed with bearing size. EG a Spindle in a big lathe that was a high speed 400mm diameter bearings approx at 2000 rpm would different to a much smaller one. I know the japanese have some good grease for some of their machines and I have used stuff in tins that I couldnt read. All im really trying to get across is NBU-15 is often specified as a replacement for older non available greases regardless of brand. It works well but ages poorly and if you are using it you need to be aware of that. Cheers
@@dazaspc I was going to mention the spec sheet lists a 36 month minimum shelf life but nothing about service life, which of course has countless variables.
@@rcdieselrc Indeed. 3 years is better but the tins I usually got never had that much time on them. But still if it cant last on the shelf how well does it last when it gets warm or is worked? It is a factor to keep in mind when used.
@BreakingTaps or @AppliedScience fancey doing a some SEM scans of roller bearing elements beffore and after ultrasonic cleaning? :D personly i'm not betting on much noticable erosion after 10 min in a typical cleaner in IPA or other non-polar solvent
4:42 As far as I understand the person in the e-mail is saying you should have 25 microns crush of the stack, but according to your measurements you have 20 micron gap?
Hi that was me , .025 mm is more of a rule of thumb Marks measurements and the factory manual said .020. The manual always wins . Edit oops reading error on my part . Down further in the comments Mark States that he misspoke ,there is indeed crush
8:35 -- Actually, 3Nm torque is equivalent to only about 2.2 pound feet of torque (or 26.6 pound inches). Also, there is a difference between foot-pounds and pound feet when referring to torque. A foot-pound is a unit of energy created (as in what is created by an engine), where a pound-foot is a unit of measurement and would be the correct term in regards to the tightness of a fastener.
Oops, good catch. It used to crack me up working at Lauda Air, the guys would talk about torquing in "leebs". They didn't realise lb was the term for pounds. foot-pounds vs pound feet. Sounds like someone didn't understand the commutative law in math :)
Wot no chips!? I am disappoint :( Nah, great video and highly instructive as ever Mark. What a lovely Crimble pressie from a good mate. Luke, get yourself making some videos for us to share your fantastic workshop. PS. Can I be your mate too? Happy Winter Festival however your celebrate it RotarySMP Family
31:00 is strikingly similar to me re-attaching the backhoe to my farm tractor. A five-minute job that takes closer to sixty due to questionable design decisions.
Grate video as usual. I think you could do it better the second time around :) your more than welcome to practice on mine if you want. hope you enjoy the bore gauges they make internal measuring that much easier
Thanks a lot Luke. I am sure you will do a better, more exact job of greasing your Maho spindle than I did. :) Did you see all the calls for you to start posting videos. Xmas break would be the perfect time to upload one! Merry Xmas mate.
Would you be willing to take some dimensions of that quill handle as mine is missing and the proportions look good on yours :) No Christmas brake here I have gears to make.
@@RotarySMPThanks it turned out looking good. I also have to add something in the middle to disengage the automatic down feed but not sure what is meant to be there
My garage never gets colder than about 11°C in winter. As for the time in the freezer, the spindle was only in there for about 20 minutes, so I don't think it would have cooled out completely given the bag.
@@RotarySMPin 20 minutes It will probably not cool down that much. I was comparing to the time the time the other part spend in the oven. Would be a shame to have to start all over again.
Talk about a cliffhanger… Anyway: nice. I think about re greasing all my angle grinders. All of them have bevel gear drives, all sound broken but they aren´t. You wouldn´t have a recommendation what to put in them? I use Liqui Moly LM47 a lot but I read in other places to use something called "Fließfett". Another mythical thing seems to be how much of that stuff to put in, some say to just put in enough so that the bevel gear is maybe half covered, it will disperse the grease while operating. But them things do next to 10K rpm´s and the grease will be flung off the big gear, in theory the "Fließfett" should return to the deepest point after use- that would explain why my Dad used to store any angle grinder disc up. Greasing things is a thrilling theme, isn´t it? I´m not even sarcastic here. Some applications deserve a 2nd thought and/or asking around people who seem to know what they do. Merry Christmas, fellow speaker!
Good question on an angle grinders greasing. I have never really thought about it. You would certainly have to do short periods to run in and distribute the grease. I cant really say where grease to use though. I just followed Maho's recommendation.
@RotarySMP Not embarrassing, I don't know a machinist who hasn't done that. It probably hasn't messed anything up, as you used the original parts and they didn't look worn.
If the 1 micron don't show a thing then it's time to bring out the CEJ 510-9 mikrokator xD ( I would love to get my hands on a CEJ 510-9 mikrokator btw. Specially cause of how they work.if luke ever find one of those at a auction please make him send me link/let me know. Cause i really want one )
@@RotarySMP instead if gears and rack's ( like the things that the quill use ) that normal indicators. they do have whatss called "stigmatism". but the mikrokator's dont have that and works by having two wires twisted with the niddle pointer in between. and a lever/hinge that then strech the tisted wire's a tiny bit. makeing it twist a bit more. whice you can see on the niddle. and since the wire's in constantly under tension they go back to "normal" meaning they dont have stigmatism ( and you can increase its res with a small first surface mirror in the niddle and a laser pointer shining on the mirror and see the amplified movement on the wall ) btw the 510-9 is there "big boy" at 0.1 micron pr. devision. (so the slightest thermal expansion is easily visinle xD)
@@LCalleja that depends on what model you got. the 510-9 was 0.0001mm and the 510-7 ( the one i have been able to find and looking at alot ) is a 0.0002 mm the one your talking about there is probably the 510-4 . which is a 0.001mm one
At 29:15 for the quill lock. Looks like copper paste. I once use copper paste for an not too critical screw. And the machine had to be striped down and washed completely or the oil filter could get clogged. And absolute nightmare
GTP can you write the G Code to do the spindle grease run in procedure? ChatGPT said: The spindle grease run-in procedure is essential for ensuring that the spindle grease is properly distributed and does not overheat during initial use. Below is an example of G-code for a spindle grease run-in procedure. This example gradually increases the spindle speed and holds it for a specified duration at each step.
@@adhawk5632 Thanks, I watched that in before doing this, and already had it linked in the video description. Shame he is not posting videos to YT anymore.
Don’t worry about not using the exact speced grease. I recently watched an in-depth lecture on grease. One of the things mentioned is that often engineers often spec a grease that hasn’t been available for years. Thanks for the video. Here’s a link to the grease lecture if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/6GCc-j3cTKo/v-deo.htmlsi=k8fN0iAK8qVjo_mT
Hi Greg as a cautionary tale , once upon a time in Quebec Canada , there used to be several broadcloth mills (up until the late 90's). One day visiting a new client I discovered that they were the Canadian distributer for kluber. they sold kluber products in 200L drums for lubricating the looms. One of the mills found a "substitue" for the kluber . they ended up having to replace several thousand thread guides, because the substitute grease did not work. Yes kluber is expensive, but so is replacing a many thousand dollar/euro component because of an incorrect lubricant. Be very careful with your substitutions.
@@steveggca I agree Kluber grease when specified into the correct application always delivers. Even on stuff like high temp conveyors where the grease dries out. You can send a sample of the grease in its current condition and they will blend you a specific mix to reactivate what is there and fully grease the bearing to the correct spec. This can be done for any grease they supply and on well maintained equipment increases life exponentially. In many conveyor apps the grease per bearing actually costs more than a brand new bearing. If substituting Kluber in nearly every case it's recommended to completly flush the lubrication system and bearings. In practice this is a very rare occurrance that I have seen. However I have been using NBU-15 since the early 90's and found through experience it breaks down over time. After a couple of years in service or not even if the brand new grease tin is left sitting in a fridge it still starts to seperate. When it separates it doesnt lubricate properly. It is also very suspectable to breaking down much faster in a humid, warm coolant mist. Like machine tools suffer. Their earlier greases didnt do this but as usual they are discontinued. The problem being that in some applications it is recommended for the lifespan of the assembly becomes limited by the grease and not the mechanical elements like bearings. I have sucessfully substituted it for other brands in the past and greatly improved assessablys life span, Also there are several machine tool manufacturers that wont use Kluber for this reason and others.
I used to be pickey about greasing bearings. But over time I have realized it's not a big deal. As long as you have enough in there that it oozes out when it spins it's all good. That grease that oozes out will stay there forever and never make its way back into the bearing. I always find it funny how manufacturers of anything will have a fancy procedure for a part installation but in their assembly factory they just slap it together and call it good. Why should I worry about that process if it isn't important when it's originally built.. Obviously the engineer wrote up the method but the factory. Very impressed with the lack of runout on that spindle and it sounds great. I actually had to get out my torque screwdriver the other day. Usually guttentight is good enough but this was one of those it needs to be right things. I was watching some videos of the Christmas markets in Vienna and am jealous... FYI found a tool seller that has some machines locally They have some stuff on dirt cheap clearance price after it sits but I have no room. And I mean very very cheap like it may cost more in gas to go across town to get it and back.
Hi Robert. Yeah, it is tough finding the right machine which is worth sacrificing limited space for. I am really glad I went for the Maho and Schaublin, vs some of the other options.
Great vid, particularly the runtime, but I'm disappointed you've also hopped on the AI bandwagon. It wouldn't have taken long to write that program yourself.
I was more curious than anything, and it really didn't save me much. Some of the syntax was good, and it was well commented, but I still had to edit it a fair bit.
If you want to collect really good tools to last a lifetime, I recommend the Warren and Brown deflection beam torque wrenches made in Australia. Here in Aust everyone who cares uses these fantastic torque wrenches. This type of design is very precise and repeatable, and has minimal wear so last a lifetime with no recalibration needed. I have three of them; Small 22Nm model with the ball handle (ideal for 3/4/5/6 mm screws) Medium 120 Nm model Large 200 Nm? Cant remember, its out with my car tools? They have triple graduated scales in ft pounds, Nm and Kg/m which is also very nice. They can be a bit pricy, but absokutely will last you a lifetime and always read perfect. As an example I bought the large one from an auction it was an ex-hire tool , probably 25 years old, that was dinged and scratched to the max. Compared it to a friend (pro mechanic) and it was still perfectly calibrated after being beat up for 25 years. And also based on recommendations of another pro mechanic friend, I just bought the medium and small ones new and have never looked back. These are a bit of an Aussie secret, most overseas friends I have told about these had never heard of them. 👍🦘😎
I loved the tour of Luke's shop. ❤❤❤
I wish he would take the time to share some of the amazing projects he does (like the gearbox for your bandsaw)
😉
Hi Jim, He is currently making an adapter to mount a Maho 500 vertical spindle on his Index horizontal mill. It will have gearing to increase the RPM at the vertical spindle. Fantastic project.
@RotarySMP Luke is certainly very talented and ingenious!
The geartrain for something like that would make great content.
@@jimurrata6785 Sure will. His workmanship is fantastic, and he has the joker of the Maltese accent. Perfect for UA-cam :)
@RotarySMP It's funny. When I think of Malta I don't think of machining or industry. I think of the Maltese Cross, a beautiful vacation spot and fluffy little white dogs. 😄
I know very little of their language & culture. There's certainly a lot going on in a nation younger than I am
@@jimurrata6785 Nation younger than you Jim? I think of Malta as ancient, so I had to fact check that. You are right, they only got independence (returned to them) in 1964, but have been inhabited since at least 5600bc :)
I am not sure how much industry they have (they are batting way above average in aviation, due to some attractive tax breaks on aircrew not stationed on the island), but Luke's is a hobby machine shop like mine.
I never would have guessed that lubing bearings could be so technical. I'll think of this every time I pull out my grease gun loaded with mystery grease.
Yeah, I made the mistake of watching Rob Renz's video about 3 times :)
@@RotarySMPRob sometimes goes overboard with things. It’s better to overdo it than under-do it, so I understand. I try to stay within manufacturer’s specs. Sometimes it can’t be done, however.
@@melgross It is great to have the perfect method demonstrated. I learnt a lot from it.
Yes. My only point of reference is the wheel bearings on my car, where you basically just fill them up with as much grease as possible.
Hey, great work! That spindle sounds great and you didn't need any loctite or bearing retainer, perfect!
Thanks a lot. I hope it lasts for a couple of years.
I use toothbrushes for grease applications, they're cheap and importantly the bristles don't fall out. You can easily heat shape the handles too
I used a toothbrush to lube the input gear. It did work well.
Man that is one beautifully engineered and designed machine!
It is a nice one, and I was luck to get it from a HWK Aachen, where it obviously didn't work very hard.
Always enjoy watching your stuff Mark! My dad walked in while you were measuring the integral bearings and I got to explain what you're doing, so thank you for that! Merry Christmas
Glad you enjoyed it Wyatt. Merry Christmas.
Quite pleased by the occasional dub interludes :D
Thanks for the feedback on that.
Nice small torquewrench. Never miss an opportunity for getting new tools.
Yeah, it is a nice one. :)
All right, a noiseless spindle! 👍👍👍 Splendid execution, Mark. I hope Robin tunes in to see his pointers put into practice. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs. ! 🎄
Hi Doric, Thanks a lot. I hope that work was good enough to keep the spindle going for a few more years.
Merry Christmas.
Mark
What a great video. Hole crap, I had no idea of all the intricacies of precision bearing, grease volume bearing alignment. As a quality engineer, I am blown away by the 5.000mm rollers.
Yeah, they blew me away as well. The obviously buy in batches and make up bearing sets in 1µm increments.
I've been using the same three Snap-on clicker torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") for 50 years with no failures and no errors. You should expect similar life from your new one. I have three suggestions: 1) unload the setting spindle when finished, 2) keep it out of the dirt, and 3) don't throw them on the floor.
Yeah, they are pretty simple tool, but should be cared for.
I've watched people from GROB (giant german CNC and automation producer) doing some service on a CNC machine and they were - using hard tallow for greasing the screws (they greased absolutely every screw and torqued it to spec - I checked their numbers and pretty general torque values), stoned every surface with their stone (they were def not precision ground stones - they felt normal to the touch so they were not ground, every technician had also a big degusit ruby stone), every mounting surface goat coated in a thick oil (i think their bottle said Coro X or something like that), they coated every spring mechanism with Kluber NBU 15 (technician took a big package of Kluber and smeared every spring with it). As far as other product they used - they used normal range of Loctite sprays (cleaning 7064, 8021 for general oiling). Also glues red Loctite 222 for gas cylinders, blue 243 for general, green one for dowels that got loose, and white one for lubrication fittings). Yea I spy on all technicians I see and write everything down.
Good to know. I sprayed everything with that wax based spray, as that is what we do on aircraft (LPS3).
Have you got any more notes from the Grob guys?
I learned at Mag IAS GmbH (you may know it as EX-CELL-O or Böhringer) and have a similar rutine. Different brand of cleaner and Oil, but same kind of meticulacy (??? is it written that way?).
I continued studying and got into a pretty hard argument with the professors about oiling screws and such.
Greetings from Germany.
@@RotarySMP What I don't get is the tallow thing (Rinderfett). I mean according to internet with the discovery of synthetic greases, nobody was using it anymore. But then again GROB is an ancient company that has been supplying the NAZI war machine, had forced labor from war prisoners and stuff. They like nostalgia or whatever :D
@@chronokoks When I was a kid, my dad had a can of Res-q-steel anti seize. He was certain it was made with whale oil , and that this was the secret sauce which made it the perfect lubricant. Sometimes these things can be quite irrational.
@RotarySMP Sometimes nature makes 'the perfect thing' Biological engineering is immensely sophisticated!
That Luke, what a guy. Nice work on the spindle!
Hi Jim, he is a champ. Thanks.
Spectacular. Hope you are spending some time with family now that you have the mill sounding less crunchy... =D Happy Sunday! ~Mike. Thanks for posting!
Thank you Mike. I have to work Monday, but then have a bit over a week off.
Merry Christmas.
Mark
@@RotarySMP Merry Christmas!
I’m blown away by the bearing diameter measurements
I suspect they hand selected rollers to make up those bearing sets.
wooooooooooooooooo yess it's alive 🎉. you dodged a very expensive repair. And finally no more guessing on inner diameters😊 what a nice present or welcome to the rabbit-hole of internal bore gauges. thank you for this spindle rebuilt you did a really nice job.
Hi Christian, I hope this spindle lasts a few years on these bearings. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Mark
It was hilarious to see my comment about ultrasonic cleaning bearings on your comment montage. I think I was extremely diplomatic, and with a complete lack of profanity! ;-)
You were Chris. Camillo's comment cracked me up. I had to use it :)
At 30:50 I'm thinking: "what is that arm even for?", then at 31:40 aha! The most impressive bit is at 24:30 when you clock the bearings with a 'tenths' indicator. I think that vindicates the decision to keep the existing bearings. - Heather
Hi Heather, I sure hope those bearings still have a couple of years in them.
Thanks for your support of my channel, and Merry Christmas,
Mark
@@RotarySMP Hey, Merry Christmas to you and your family too.
I work with optics and I can assure you that Kimwipes are NOT lint-free by any stretch of the imagination. I was really surprised when Rob suggested their use. However, the fibers they leave behind should be fairly innocuous in small quantities.
Thanks Jeremy. Good to know.
Hi Mark , looks like success. actually using a torque wrench for small fasteners sure is eye opening to how little torque is really needed.
Hi Steve, Thanks for your support through this little side project. Yeah, 3Nm is really not much. It would be easy to exceed that using "feel" :)
@@RotarySMP No problem, you have been entertaining me for years now. Merry Christmas and enjoy your holidays!
@@steveggca Merry Christmas Steve.
Another great video Mark, I wish you a wonderful festive season with your loved ones.
Greetings from Switzerland, Dominic
Oh, I am sorry Dominic. I confused you with another. Merry Christmas.
Great video. No screw-ups, and nice music. You have become a force to be reckoned with!
Thanks a lot Willem. Did you complete the lovely acoustic you were working on?
I was half expecting Mark to edit in a sound like a car engine with a loud bottom end knock for the first start up, then saying "Just kidding" before k1lling the sound effect. 😁
Lucky I didn't think of that.:)
I love the precision wooden block painted in maho green
It is important to have the appropriate accessories. :)
Gut gemacht Mark. I hope the old bearings will do the Job.
I hope so as well. I'll be happy if I get a couple of years more out of them.
Wow! Thanks for the glimpse into precision bearing, real learning experience for me. Thanks Mark
Glad you enjoyed that Dean.
I think this is the latest I've ever watched one of your videos on a Sunday! Glad to see everything worked out well. Please don't crash the Maho again, I remember that, it hurt! Shudder.
Merry Xmas and a great New Year, Mark.
Cheers.
Thanks a lot for your support Vince. Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.
Very nice puzzle.
And indeed, Luke is a very generous person.
Hi Michel- He is a real champ. I really hope he starts making videos of his cool projects.
Gosh!! Bearings are way more complicated than I ever thought! That is really interesting Mark, thank you. We had a bearing on a swing out wire winch that occasionally burst. It was being used as a wheel so the outside of the bearing was not supported except where it pressed against the mounting pillar. I think it was a sealed bearing but i'm wondering now if it should have been greased or if the odd grain of sand made its way in the cause the burst.
Hope you and yours have a marvellous holiday time Mark and thanks for the videos throughout the year.
Hi John, Bearings are remarkably fragile.
Merry christmas to you as well.
Cheers,
Mark
Well done! That’s truly a labour of love there! Patience and time! Really keep up the great work! Sending regards from South Africa!
Thanks for your kind words. Merry Christmas from Austria.
Great video as always Mark! 👍👍
I didn't realize bearings needed such a precise application of grease, looks like I've been doing it wrong for quite a while lol.
I'm looking forward to seeing your new Bore Micrometer from Luke in action in a future video, it looks like a nice piece of equipment.
I guess wheel bearings and other general purpose applications are not as critical.
It really is.
Cheers,
Mark
Sunday morning video time!!! I look forward to this every weekend😁
Thanks for your support.
13:40 - thats for shielded ones. you cannot overpack open cage bearings ) any excess grease will come out on its own.
Providing that the surplus grease has somewhere to go. thats not really the case with stacked together bearings , and if the
bearing manufacter recommends it, why not follow that recommendation.
Yeah, that is the way I see it as well.
Learned a lot. Going back into my Bridgeport II spindle with new found knowledge. Thanks.
Thanks for your feedback. Bridgeports are very handy tools.
I think youve done a really good job and eliminated the cause by replacing those preload screws. Given the usage this is way more than good enough. 4000rpm was a breakneck speed back then. If you ever have a problem again you now know its intestines and can do it four times as fast ;)
Thanks. That is a the way I see it as well.
@@RotarySMP I may have missed it, but did you measure the old screws to determine they had in fact been stretched? In any case replacing them was cheap insurance.
Sounds like you did a great job refurbishing the spindle. Plenty of useful info there, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video Mark. Merry Christmas!
Thank you Abdulaziz, you as well.
Brilliant video, brilliant outcome! Of course the proof is in the first cut, but that sounds so much better! Have a good Christmas, and don't forget to take time off from the workshop to drink too much and overeat! Have a good one,
Phil,
PS, I am back at it and have a new video out! Feeling almost totally recovered!
Phil Whitley, My week this week, on UA-cam!
Hi Phil,
Glad you are recovered. Merry Christmas.
The condition of the fastener affects the results much more than the torque after the decimal point. Dry vs. A really good lubricant there's a huge difference and the condition of the thread should be specified in critical applications. I took a gamble with Volvo head bolts that were supposed to be dipped in anti-rust agent and let to dry and I just oiled them but I got away with it thankfully. I imagine they are now a little bit overtight but they didn't snap so I'm good. I used the old bolts and I ran a tap through the holes and a die through the bolts, I even had to buy new taps&dies because it was an M11 thread, never seen those before.
It drives me nuts when manufacturers use oddball threads like M11. The Boley has M4.5's on it.
had an idea for the quill, since you don't keep the handle on maybe make a cap with a neodymium magnet in it, that way you can put it on and take it off quickly, without worrying about it falling off. you just have to get the right strength magnet.
I am not a fan of magnets around machines flinging steel chips.
what a great parcel from Luke. I did not see any setting rings ? unfortunately they are essential.
One of my co-workers told me that he had a conversation with a Mahr-Federal engineer .
They considers bore gages to truely accurate only at the setting ring size .
That is why in a machine shop or production shop, bore gage setting rings are made to the
exact dimension.
Mitutoyo will no doubt tell you what the reliable measuring range is.
Hi Steve, I have a huge box of what appears to be gauge rings I got with the Boley. I need to start checking them and see.
Compared to my telescoping gauges, these much be better :)
@@RotarySMP Do you know anyone with a bore gauge and setting rings? have them measured (Boley rings) ,and have measure marked on the rings.
Its a start.
Those mitutoyo gauges can be preset with the bore diameter ie if the ring measures 19.996mm (Mitutoyo 177-286 Setting Ring) you
preset the gauge to display that.
What often happens in production , the ring is exact dimension and the gauge is set to "0" now the operator only cares about +/- from that dimension.
@@steveggca I am pretty sure my mate Franz will have ring gauges. I'll take it out there and calibrate it, and some of my rings.
We go to agricultural suppliers like Mole Valley Farmers for syringes to use for 'non veterinary' purposes!
Having replaced numerous wheel bearings (those for tractors can be massive) it is interesting to see these precision bearings where those for the cutting end are integral to remove two metal on metal joints & the ones at the top deal with the axial loads, but no rubber grease seals, yet grease doesn't leak out presumably?
Are they as cheap as our chemists :)
@pcka that is one of the properties of the NBU 15 grease , once its run in, it will stay in place for many years.
@@steveggca I was surprised how good the forty year old grease looked.
@steveggca that is very interesting 😳
@RotarySMP never tried chemists since so cheap & easily obtainable !
Great video, execution and information.
Hopefully I will never need it. 😉
The roller dimensions…wow! 😮🥰
Glad you enjoyed it. Yeah, probably hand sorted sets of rollers there.
I'm sure it's been pointed out elsewhere, but you've lubed 2 things that don't need it; the bearing preload cap (which should only be in contact with the 100% absolutely static outer cages of the bearings), and far more critically, the spindle where you're mounting the 4 ABEC bearings. That fitting should, IMO, 100% absolutely not be lubricated at all. You really, really, really don't want the inner cages of those bearings spinning on the spindle. So unless the Maho docs say otherwise, I'd say thats a pretty big no-no.
For lubing the nose bearings, I'd probably have gone the Schaublin route - dissolve grease in white gas, immerse bearings, pul bearings, allow solvent to flash off. But I don't see any problem with the way you did it.
Very nice result, in any case.
Thanks for the sanity check on what I did. I hope I don't get any problems from the lubes inner race. Robin Renzetti did it to prevent fretting corrosion.
As far as I know INA still makes all kinds of rollers and needles for bearings which are available at bearing stores but I am not sure of the tolerances they have. As they aren't that expensive, you could just order like 50 of them and pick the best matched ones. No need in your case I suppose but in case you will need them in the future.
I wonder whether those bearing shops will sell to private people. A lot of companies, especially in Germany only sell to industry.
Nice vid Mark. After reading the comments im now confused about kluber nbu 15. Is it the good stuff or not? I'll keep using using it on my bicycle pedals anyway as ive got a 1 kg tin of the stuff. Merry Christmas
Most consider it the best grease available. As with anything, there are dissenting opinions :)
Awesome video, great content as usual. Merry Christmas to you and your family Mark!
Thanks a lot. Merry Christmas John.
nbu15 works for about anything
i might be wrong but at 3:45 are you not reading the mic backwardsa?that should be .49?
I did. Oops! :)
Those bearings are even better than the ones in my Harbor Freight benchtop drill press....(I paid $42. for it new)
Good call Hans. You can buy four of those. drill presses per bearing :)
I wonder why they decided to use dead soft 8.8 socket screws for the bearing retainer? As a fuse?
I think they did. This was often sold to schools, so the little 8.8 M4's are a nice mechanical fuse there.
Merry Christmas 😊
Thanks a lot. Merry Christmas to you as well.
The spindle sounds good now I think it was just needing a good cleaning and lube job
Thanks Chris. I think it was.
Great it all went together well. A shame you had to use NBU-15 though it will need refreshment in a couple of years as it breaks down over time.
Have a great Christmas...
Thanks a lot. At least I know the procedure now.
Merry Christmas.
Mark
Is this from experience? which spindle? What would you use instead?
@@rcdieselrc I used to repair and maintain machine tools as a job for about 30 years. Off the top of my head brands and often different models inside such, Nakimura, ,Okuma, Mazak Moriseki, Okk, Chiron, Fadal, Hass, Brother, Victor, Daewoo and several others. Done spindle rebuilds in lathes and mills and most other repairs in every brand I listed and others I didnt. Also many one off special purpose machines Some CNC controlled some not. The NBU comment was base on observation and the use by date printed on tins of NBU-15. The beauty of the stuff is it works well in almost anything the problem is how long it lasts. Im not claiming to be an expert but I do know my way around a machine tool. I got the scars and broken marriage to prove it LOL. My goto was usally an SKF grease when needed type I dont remember the exact one as it often changed with bearing size. EG a Spindle in a big lathe that was a high speed 400mm diameter bearings approx at 2000 rpm would different to a much smaller one. I know the japanese have some good grease for some of their machines and I have used stuff in tins that I couldnt read. All im really trying to get across is NBU-15 is often specified as a replacement for older non available greases regardless of brand. It works well but ages poorly and if you are using it you need to be aware of that.
Cheers
@@dazaspc I was going to mention the spec sheet lists a 36 month minimum shelf life but nothing about service life, which of course has countless variables.
@@rcdieselrc Indeed. 3 years is better but the tins I usually got never had that much time on them. But still if it cant last on the shelf how well does it last when it gets warm or is worked? It is a factor to keep in mind when used.
Seasons Greetings to you all!
Merry Christmas, and thanks for regularly watch my videos.
The bore gauge looks like a light saber 😂 very generous Chrissy gift.
It really is a nice tool. I really appreciate Lukes friendship and generosity.
point six four mililitres ... have fun measuring that in a syringe.
Yeah, I would have a bit of a scatter in amount, but tried to stay close.
Glad I stayed up late to see my mention.
Thanks for watching it Brendan.
@BreakingTaps or @AppliedScience fancey doing a some SEM scans of roller bearing elements beffore and after ultrasonic cleaning? :D personly i'm not betting on much noticable erosion after 10 min in a typical cleaner in IPA or other non-polar solvent
I would love to see that as well.
4:42 As far as I understand the person in the e-mail is saying you should have 25 microns crush of the stack, but according to your measurements you have 20 micron gap?
Hi that was me , .025 mm is more of a rule of thumb Marks measurements and the factory manual said .020.
The manual always wins . Edit oops reading error on my part . Down further in the comments Mark
States that he misspoke ,there is indeed crush
I screwed up that diagram. It should show a 20 micron gap between the spindle housing and the cap, not the bearing and the cap.
I love this channel
Thanks for your kind feedback Sammy.
8:35 -- Actually, 3Nm torque is equivalent to only about 2.2 pound feet of torque (or 26.6 pound inches). Also, there is a difference between foot-pounds and pound feet when referring to torque. A foot-pound is a unit of energy created (as in what is created by an engine), where a pound-foot is a unit of measurement and would be the correct term in regards to the tightness of a fastener.
Oops, good catch. It used to crack me up working at Lauda Air, the guys would talk about torquing in "leebs". They didn't realise lb was the term for pounds.
foot-pounds vs pound feet. Sounds like someone didn't understand the commutative law in math :)
So, did you fix it?
Yep, although there was nothing wrong except the screw needing replacement, and the bearings fresh lube.
Amazing video! It's making me crave a maho of my own lol
I hope you can find one Michael. It is a lovely machine.
Wot no chips!? I am disappoint :(
Nah, great video and highly instructive as ever Mark. What a lovely Crimble pressie from a good mate.
Luke, get yourself making some videos for us to share your fantastic workshop. PS. Can I be your mate too?
Happy Winter Festival however your celebrate it RotarySMP Family
Thanks Mate. Merry Xmas to you as well.
31:00 is strikingly similar to me re-attaching the backhoe to my farm tractor. A five-minute job that takes closer to sixty due to questionable design decisions.
Yeah, it was kind of annoying, as it would be much nicer if you could mount the arm first, and then plug in the head.
Grate video as usual. I think you could do it better the second time around :) your more than welcome to practice on mine if you want. hope you enjoy the bore gauges they make internal measuring that much easier
Thanks a lot Luke. I am sure you will do a better, more exact job of greasing your Maho spindle than I did. :)
Did you see all the calls for you to start posting videos. Xmas break would be the perfect time to upload one!
Merry Xmas mate.
Would you be willing to take some dimensions of that quill handle as mine is missing and the proportions look good on yours :)
No Christmas brake here I have gears to make.
@@LCalleja Sure, I also just eyeballed this one. I'll send you a sketch.
@@RotarySMPThanks it turned out looking good. I also have to add something in the middle to disengage the automatic down feed but not sure what is meant to be there
Really interesting NBU bearings are mounted at the front. I think the design engineer had too much alcohol.😀
I guess it it the compromise driven by wanting the most compact spindle cartridge, around a 40 taper.
I hope the grease was rated to minus 18. Don't think a spindle is supposed to work in those temperatures. As always learned a lot!
My garage never gets colder than about 11°C in winter.
As for the time in the freezer, the spindle was only in there for about 20 minutes, so I don't think it would have cooled out completely given the bag.
Minimum temperature is -40C/-40F and thats operating temperature
@@steveggca That is way below my operating temp. If it gets that cold in the basement, I wont be there :)
@@RotarySMPin 20 minutes It will probably not cool down that much. I was comparing to the time the time the other part spend in the oven. Would be a shame to have to start all over again.
@@tomwagemans1872 It seems fine.
Ah, perfect timing! Just in time for my lunch break 😀
Thanks. Glad to support your lunch break :)
Thank you for the videos! For a while now I've been enjoying CEE Friday mornings and your latest on Sundays. Both equally enjoyable even if different.
@@NeralyYT Yeah, I love CEE. Karen does a fantastic job of the filming and editing, and Kurt has the workmanship and swearing :)
Can somebody explain (good reasons) why not to use blue Loctite 243 (or low-strength) on 6pcs bolts in this application?
Oh, I was meaning to. Although those bolts did not vibrate loose. They stretched due to the crash.
Talk about a cliffhanger… Anyway: nice. I think about re greasing all my angle grinders. All of them have bevel gear drives, all sound broken but they aren´t. You wouldn´t have a recommendation what to put in them? I use Liqui Moly LM47 a lot but I read in other places to use something called "Fließfett".
Another mythical thing seems to be how much of that stuff to put in, some say to just put in enough so that the bevel gear is maybe half covered, it will disperse the grease while operating. But them things do next to 10K rpm´s and the grease will be flung off the big gear, in theory the "Fließfett" should return to the deepest point after use- that would explain why my Dad used to store any angle grinder disc up.
Greasing things is a thrilling theme, isn´t it? I´m not even sarcastic here. Some applications deserve a 2nd thought and/or asking around people who seem to know what they do.
Merry Christmas, fellow speaker!
Good question on an angle grinders greasing. I have never really thought about it. You would certainly have to do short periods to run in and distribute the grease. I cant really say where grease to use though. I just followed Maho's recommendation.
@@RotarySMP When I saw that 90 degree gear drive in Your machine that came to my mind. Thanks, Merry Christmas
4:44 You got 0.02 clearance? I thought you wanted 0.02 crush? Perhaps I missed something
I guess I drew and explained it wrong. It is is 0.02mm crush. 0.02mm clearance between the housing and the cap when the bearings touch.
@RotarySMP I get you now 😊 as long as it made sense to you all that matters
@@RotarySMP Your drawing shows exactly what you meant.
I'm always surprised how little grease there is in a sealed (2RS) bearing.
It is. I wonder if the manufacturers lube them with the grease dissolved in solvent
@3:55 Those are not the measurements you got. You switched the side you measured on, on the vernier scale. It was 46.99 and 45.03
Yeah, I screwed that up :) . Embarrassing.
@RotarySMP Not embarrassing, I don't know a machinist who hasn't done that. It probably hasn't messed anything up, as you used the original parts and they didn't look worn.
If the 1 micron don't show a thing then it's time to bring out the CEJ 510-9 mikrokator xD ( I would love to get my hands on a CEJ 510-9 mikrokator btw. Specially cause of how they work.if luke ever find one of those at a auction please make him send me link/let me know. Cause i really want one )
Sounds like a fun toy :)
@@RotarySMP instead if gears and rack's ( like the things that the quill use ) that normal indicators. they do have whatss called "stigmatism". but the mikrokator's dont have that and works by having two wires twisted with the niddle pointer in between. and a lever/hinge that then strech the tisted wire's a tiny bit. makeing it twist a bit more. whice you can see on the niddle. and since the wire's in constantly under tension they go back to "normal" meaning they dont have stigmatism ( and you can increase its res with a small first surface mirror in the niddle and a laser pointer shining on the mirror and see the amplified movement on the wall ) btw the 510-9 is there "big boy" at 0.1 micron pr. devision. (so the slightest thermal expansion is easily visinle xD)
I have a few not sure on the make but they only read down to 0.001mm :)
@@LCalleja Nice Luke, next time you open one up, make a video of the mechanism, please.
@@LCalleja that depends on what model you got. the 510-9 was 0.0001mm and the 510-7 ( the one i have been able to find and looking at alot ) is a 0.0002 mm
the one your talking about there is probably the 510-4 . which is a 0.001mm one
yea the price is outragious!
It kind of is.
I didn't like the copper grease in the quill lock. I hope nothing bad happens
Which copper grease? I have some copper anti seize grease, but didn't use any on this project.
At 29:15 for the quill lock. Looks like copper paste. I once use copper paste for an not too critical screw. And the machine had to be striped down and washed completely or the oil filter could get clogged. And absolute nightmare
@@jabonet I only used way oil on that.
Absolutely excellent!
Thanks a lot Max.
Nice job 😀
Thanks Julia. I hope these bearings last a couple of years.
Merry Xmas,
Mark
GTP
can you write the G Code to do the spindle grease run in procedure?
ChatGPT said:
The spindle grease run-in procedure is essential for ensuring that the spindle grease is properly distributed and does not overheat during initial use. Below is an example of G-code for a spindle grease run-in procedure. This example gradually increases the spindle speed and holds it for a specified duration at each step.
Yeah, that would have overheated the bearings straight away.
Fancy mill rides again!
Yep, nice to have it back in service.
As an infrequent visitor of your channel: Do you ever do any machining, where thee part is the goal, or are the machines 99% of the hobby?
Not as much as I would like. Did you see the shop tour of my sister. It kinds of explains it. :)
ua-cam.com/video/MQJFUI2oyE8/v-deo.html
or .99 but you somehow got the depth right :D
Yeah, I screwed that up :)
7.85g/ml? You should use 8g/ml, the error compensates itself because pi=3
Good call :)
For reference, his name is Robin not Rob.
Thanks, I don't know him, and will correct it in the video description link.
ROBRENZ does a vid on precision spindle rebuilding, his channel is awesome, incredible stuff👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 Thanks, I watched that in before doing this, and already had it linked in the video description. Shame he is not posting videos to YT anymore.
@@RotarySMP my bad, I didn't look👍
I think you have 0.2mm anti-squeeze? As you said, you have 0.2 clearance. And I think you want 0.2 interference?
I think I screwed up the diagram and description there Andy. .02mm gap between housing and cover, rather than between bearing race and cover.
Yay! Its alive!
Hope those bearings last a couple more years. I have other projects I would rather do than making new roller cages at present.
Don’t worry about not using the exact speced grease. I recently watched an in-depth lecture on grease. One of the things mentioned is that often engineers often spec a grease that hasn’t been available for years. Thanks for the video. Here’s a link to the grease lecture if you are interested.
ua-cam.com/video/6GCc-j3cTKo/v-deo.htmlsi=k8fN0iAK8qVjo_mT
Hi Greg as a cautionary tale , once upon a time in Quebec Canada , there used to be several broadcloth mills (up until the late 90's).
One day visiting a new client I discovered that they were the Canadian distributer for kluber.
they sold kluber products in 200L drums for lubricating the looms.
One of the mills found a "substitue" for the kluber . they ended up having to replace several thousand thread guides, because the substitute grease did
not work.
Yes kluber is expensive, but so is replacing a many thousand dollar/euro component because of an incorrect lubricant.
Be very careful with your substitutions.
@
Thanks. I’ll keep that in mind.
Thanks for that link Greg.
Good example Steve. I am glad that Kluber sells the 50 gram tubes.
@@steveggca I agree Kluber grease when specified into the correct application always delivers. Even on stuff like high temp conveyors where the grease dries out. You can send a sample of the grease in its current condition and they will blend you a specific mix to reactivate what is there and fully grease the bearing to the correct spec. This can be done for any grease they supply and on well maintained equipment increases life exponentially. In many conveyor apps the grease per bearing actually costs more than a brand new bearing. If substituting Kluber in nearly every case it's recommended to completly flush the lubrication system and bearings. In practice this is a very rare occurrance that I have seen.
However I have been using NBU-15 since the early 90's and found through experience it breaks down over time. After a couple of years in service or not even if the brand new grease tin is left sitting in a fridge it still starts to seperate. When it separates it doesnt lubricate properly. It is also very suspectable to breaking down much faster in a humid, warm coolant mist. Like machine tools suffer. Their earlier greases didnt do this but as usual they are discontinued. The problem being that in some applications it is recommended for the lifespan of the assembly becomes limited by the grease and not the mechanical elements like bearings. I have sucessfully substituted it for other brands in the past and greatly improved assessablys life span, Also there are several machine tool manufacturers that wont use Kluber for this reason and others.
@@dazaspc Have you used NSK lg2?
Like a buffalo girl!
Thanks for noticing :)
About Apotheker Preise, those needles kost 10€ in 1000piece packs 🤣
I guess they give them away to trap you into buying their other products :)
Aww, no chips?
Not yet, it needed running in first.
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Glad you enjoyed that Joell.
Poor mans lint free wipes….. paper coffee filters
Thanks John, someone also mentioned that on a previous comment. Then again, we don't so filter coffee I don't have filters either :)
I used to be pickey about greasing bearings. But over time I have realized it's not a big deal. As long as you have enough in there that it oozes out when it spins it's all good. That grease that oozes out will stay there forever and never make its way back into the bearing. I always find it funny how manufacturers of anything will have a fancy procedure for a part installation but in their assembly factory they just slap it together and call it good. Why should I worry about that process if it isn't important when it's originally built.. Obviously the engineer wrote up the method but the factory. Very impressed with the lack of runout on that spindle and it sounds great.
I actually had to get out my torque screwdriver the other day. Usually guttentight is good enough but this was one of those it needs to be right things.
I was watching some videos of the Christmas markets in Vienna and am jealous... FYI found a tool seller that has some machines locally They have some stuff on dirt cheap clearance price after it sits but I have no room. And I mean very very cheap like it may cost more in gas to go across town to get it and back.
Hi Robert. Yeah, it is tough finding the right machine which is worth sacrificing limited space for. I am really glad I went for the Maho and Schaublin, vs some of the other options.
I think the thought is the grease that gets pushed out will find its way back in when the bearing heats up, and the grease gets thinner
👍🦘🇦🇺
Thanks Allan.
Start a UA-cam channel Luke, please :)
Thanks for adding that.
Great vid, particularly the runtime, but I'm disappointed you've also hopped on the AI bandwagon. It wouldn't have taken long to write that program yourself.
I was more curious than anything, and it really didn't save me much. Some of the syntax was good, and it was well commented, but I still had to edit it a fair bit.
If you want to collect really good tools to last a lifetime, I recommend the Warren and Brown deflection beam torque wrenches made in Australia. Here in Aust everyone who cares uses these fantastic torque wrenches.
This type of design is very precise and repeatable, and has minimal wear so last a lifetime with no recalibration needed.
I have three of them;
Small 22Nm model with the ball handle (ideal for 3/4/5/6 mm screws)
Medium 120 Nm model
Large 200 Nm? Cant remember, its out with my car tools?
They have triple graduated scales in ft pounds, Nm and Kg/m which is also very nice.
They can be a bit pricy, but absokutely will last you a lifetime and always read perfect.
As an example I bought the large one from an auction it was an ex-hire tool , probably 25 years old, that was dinged and scratched to the max. Compared it to a friend (pro mechanic) and it was still perfectly calibrated after being beat up for 25 years.
And also based on recommendations of another pro mechanic friend, I just bought the medium and small ones new and have never looked back.
These are a bit of an Aussie secret, most overseas friends I have told about these had never heard of them. 👍🦘😎
Nice. Not something I would commonly encounter over here.
@RotarySMP they do sell most of their wrenches by mail order 👍
@@wizrom3046 Once I break this one, I know what to look for. :)