DIY "FIRE PUMP", Something rather than nothing
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2020
- Taking a look at my diy "fire pump" and its accessories. California is on fire and I always like to be prepared.
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this might help you, when I was a wildland fire fighter we always rolled up our hose with the connectors outside. When you lay your hose out fold it in half. start rolling it from the middle section. that way you can grab the connectors fling it out and you'll already have the both ends that you need. when it's rolled up you can secure with a makeshift bungee. we use sections of cut up inner tube. go with one inch if you can. it'll be easy easier to handle. you could do use your large hose as a distribution line and run gated Y's off of it. just be careful of how long your lines are. 45psi isn't much but if your well ahead of the fire you can put down a good wet line. cheers
Yet another word on a great system. You are not limited to a 24' suction hose, you are limited to 24' of lift. If you have a water source a foot lower, you could have a couple of hundred feet of suction. I am glad you put a recirc line on it, I have seen some that have not. Thanks for the video.
FIRST CLASS ALL THE WAY!!!
We're going to put a system together also as soon as we move to the Pacific NW.
Suggestion For You & Your Family (since you're also in CA):
* I'm going to install a sprinkler system at the top of my home along the "ridge" and then I'll be able to hook up my water pump to not only a hose system like yours but, pump the water to the top of the home (as long as a have access to a large water system like you have) and make the home "damp".
* I might even have two systems to make it more redundant and easier on me.
* If any fires get close to the home, we'll first turn on the sprinkler system at the top of our home (on a slow mist to moisten everything and conserve water; turn up the volume later if necessary) and then I can take a second water pump and also fight the fire farther out!
If ya want to live in the forests and enjoy them, this is the prepping ya need to do and I have no problem with it!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
Thanks for posting. Tiny suggestion - if you can, get rid of that elbow at the outlet. It robs pressure, with no benefit. Cheers
Fwiw on pump brand at the property I live at we have 2 Honda pumps, a Northstar pump and 2 harbor freight pumps and have had as many or more issues with the Hondas than the cheaper ones. They all get used more or less equally. It feels nice to know there are a few Hondas but as far as what we've seen the reliability is fairly consistent across brands.
We also use FH thread instead of camlock and then carry adapters if we need to hook up to a camlock supply. Not sure exactly why, but it's what they had in place when I moved here and the whole setup saw a lot of very successful use in the 2020 lightening fires. Our tanks are located at high points with outlets on the tanks and are all plumbed downhill with underground 3" pvc and steel risers to hook into near the major structures.
Great to see you getting prepared. You can prime the suction hose by jiggling the foot valve as fast as you can in the water. Moving it back and forward will push water into the hose on the forward stroke and the foot valve will stop the water coming out on the backward stroke. Works best if you are standing in the water . Also works better if you leave the priming cap off the pump to let the air out at the top. Cheers from Western Australia
Good suggestion! I fill the suction hose with water before firing up the pump. Greetings from Greece.
@@sixoremenos That's the best suggestion.
Brilliant. Best how-to on UA-cam. I use 'trash' pumps to move water out of the ditches during spring run-off if the culvert gets overwhelmed. The recommendation to use a check valve on the intake and kink the discharge hose then walk the discharge through the hose as it fills is something I never thought of. I would often have problems getting the hose to expand to capacity. The tip I would add is if you are pumping and the temperatures are just above freezing, soak your discharge hoses in hot water first. Great video.
I'd highly recommend setting money aside for a higher pressure pump. Honda does make some highish pressure pumps that can make at least 70psi. It is a bit of an investment but a standard transfer pump just isn't enough.
Thank you. I was thinking about doing this exact same thing. Saw the price of a fire pump, picked myself up off the floor, and knew there had to be a reasonable option out there in UA-cam land and here we are.
Exactly!!
We are just setting up with the same equipment. Good to see yours in action. Thanks.
Rural N/E Idaho here which means Hi desert... Ive tried a few water/fire fighting systems .. My suggestion is go light as u can to get to hard to reach places.. Transportable fire skids are the best.. Most important,,get AFFF or a lite water solution to mix...Knocks the shit out of deep seeded fires.. Great vid BTW!!
Excellent good idea .thanks for posting.
nice rig, well thought out...i like the suitcase idea too.
Good work sir. I'm over in Sonoma County and I'm building the same setup. Subscribed and thanks for the vid. Stay safe!
Nice easy set up. I will copy your head export set up. Thanks for the demo!
Great job! You're easy to follow, good presentation. I'm trying to put this together now. Having a little trouble getting the right adapters but I'll manage. Some good comments on here. Thanks again sir, and grateful for all the feedback guys.
Hey thank you very much! A good resource for fire hose parts I found is firehosedirect.com not sponsored but has everything. One-stop shop
great video, I just bought one and you helped me understand it better, Thank you :)
Great informative vid. Looking to buy the Honda WT30 , for a rainy day. Thank you!
Nice setup. Honda is the only way to go in my opinion. Put that very pump thru a lot working at a marina. Reliable.
You might want to look into installing what's known as a "dry hydrant". Also, wildlands fire crews use a 1" hoseline. That and some hand tools will go a long way.
A dry hydrant is basically a normal municipal fire hydrant designed for areas that have freezing temperatures. I’m pretty sure you cannot simply install one a dry hydrant with a pond as the water source. You wouldn’t have any pressure in the hydrant.
1” hose is a great idea especially with using a 1.5” to 1” reducer. You might find an adapter to put at the end of the 1.5” hose then reduce to 1”. This would lengthen the total hose and help reduce friction loss while increasing pressure at the nozzle and more distance coming out of the nozzle.
@@thenukerunner4906 A dry hydrant is installed at a pond for pumper suction. You are thinking of a "dry barrel" hydrant. But dry hydrants are intended for fire department use; I don't see what advantage it would have over what he's got unless he's gonna be buying a class A engine as well.
Also, you seem to not have a basic understanding of fluid dynamics. How in the world can you possibly think a smaller hose would reduce friction loss and increase pressure?!? The only advantage to reducing the size of hose midway through is reducing the labor required to move it around.
Ok well I do know how you could think that, it's a common misconception, but pipes do not behave as nozzles, pressure is pressure regardless of changes in pipe size. Only an actual outlet is a nozzle and produces a stream length. Smaller orifices look like they are making "more pressure" but that's because they are flowing less water, causing less pressure loss in the system.
The best thing he could do to deal with the low pressures of that transfer pump would be to use a 2.5" hose with a 15/16" smoothbore nozzle. The undersized nozzle meaning low flow for a 2.5", and the big hose meaning minimum friction loss for such a flow. Smoothbore because it can be effective with as low nozzle pressure as 40 psi.
I would delete that 90 and put in a ball shut off valve. You'll gain a little more psi. Also try and get some 1" hose. Use the 1 1/5 hose to get you out there and the 1" to fight fire. Lighter to use.
I just retired from fire after 23 years 17 I was on the wildland fire side and you are spot on with this. Delete the 90, neck it down to a 1” hose I would also get rid of the combo nozzle those need a certain amount of pressure to even work. I would get a shut off valve and put a straight pipe nozzle basically it look like the combo nozzle he has with the bail shut off but can screw on the straight pipe nozzle, he will get more pressure and farther water throw. We use these same high volume pumps to fill engines from rivers/ponds and they aren’t the best for pressure. But anything is better than nothing.
Great stuff love your videos
Much appreciated
It is much quicker to stretch a hose line if you fold instead of roll it up. Another downside to rolling is the hose close to the fitting on the inside end can see premature wear because of the kink.
Small engines stay reliable when the gas in them is the best it can be. For something as dependable as a fire pump, ethanol free gas would be smart of course running the pump every once in a while.
(Side note for small engines) Although I don't think Honda uses vinyl fuel line but ethanol in fuels actually will eat vinyl over time. The more expensive black rubber gas line is where it's at.
Very good
I was just doing research on this and had this pump in my cart on amazon. I think I'm sold, now I just need to find the rest of the parts you have.
Hey that's great, happy to help. They should have most of the steel pipe fittings at your local hardware store. and the fire hose fittings are available at amazon or at firehosedirect.com thanks for watching.
Nice i am in concow and have 1 heck of a fire setup 3 pumps 2 3000 gallon tanks plus a mobile 330 setup in my truck California mountains is 1 sketchy place to live
Yes sir, this time of year I sleep with one eye open.
EXCELLENT!!!
DON'T forget your mask aka respirators so you don't get stuck in a bad situation if the wind changes on ya!!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
I’m sure you know this but the 24 foot suction limit refers to vertical distance not horizontal. So in theory your suction pipe could be much longer as long as the ground relatively flat. 🙂
hahah I was about to comment that.
This applies to head limit too
I think if you had a 10 foot rope on the engine side of the suction hose. Throw that end in the pond also pull it out with the rope and it will be full bc of the foot valve and it will be an instant prime if you lift the hose 5 ft away from the pump then water will drain into the pump and out into the flat hose. Worst case you have a rope wrapped around the suction hose 2 ft from the engine. Just an idea. Hey were dod you get the case for the hose?
Nice job ...
Just a head Up!!
Most if not All fier stations
Dry out ther HOSES beford
Rolin Them Up!!
They rot if stored wet!!
Although historically fire hoses were spun with cotton, modern firehouse are synthetic and water doesn't affect them other than causing foul smelling water. But it is a good idea to drain them, much easier to stretch out the next time they're needed.
The sun's UV destroys hoses...and extension cords.
@@ericpeck3180 All Danish godt stations i know of
Dry out ther A B C hoses after end use
Becaus of the (rubber insider the cotten
Shield rot ower time when left wet
MAYBE they now in 2022 hawe new
Rubber silicone insider not rotting AWAY
As far as I know they still dry out ther hoses)
And ofcorse in a city with call out
EVERY DAY IT is not nessesery
But when you like in Denmark
Hawe MAYBE 2 calls or
More terning then aculey
Fiers wełl THING seems to get rotten
Way faster if not dryed Up..
How about getting the mower out and cut all that dead grass down as short as possible. The way it is now, if it gets lit in a breeze it will go out of control in short order.
A good way to prime these is turn of the kill switch , fill the pump with water and then pull on the recoil a few times and fill it again.
Canvas fire hose needs to be dried thoroughly after use, this is why fire stations have(had) towers! A damp hose rots and splits under pressure.
I have the wt40x 11hp. Its 4" with over 325' of hose, i wonder if its too much.. obviously its heavy-duty and the pvc hoses are heavy when full of water. Probably not great for putting out fires and only bringing water from the lake up to flood the property
where do I buy this set up? We have no fire hydrant at our house. Thank you
You seem to misunderstand the head concept. Head is height- it doesn't matter how long your suction or discharge hose is in regards to the Head. Yes longer hoses will move less water / lower discharge pressure but you can theoretically have hoses much longer than what you currently have. I design basic fire systems in regards to pressure losses from fitting and pipe length etc.
And as another person mentioned if possible get rid of the 2" 90
No expert here however common sense would dictate that if the hose is able to be kinked so easily (like yours) you do not have enough pressure. Remove the elbow as well. Contact local fire and verify what type of hose/fittings they use to copy
Common sence also dictates
That a thin hose kinks EASY
At same presiur as C or B
Hose does!! The NOSSEL presiur
Was atleast 20Meter /2+Bar / 30psi
THE FIRST HOSE .. YOU LOOSE WAY TOO MUTCH PRESIUR
AND WATER ... IN TOO MUTCH 1.5" UPGRADE THE CARRIERHOSE
TO 2.5" AND GO FROM 2.5 TO T 1WATER HOSE AND THE 1.5" HOSE
TO KEEP PRESIUR UP FOR AS LONG A STRETCH AS POSSIBEL ... BOTTELNECK
Get yourself a woodland nozzle.
They need less pressure to work.
Wildland nozzle
How much horse power doesn't that have
Wow thanks for being one of the few people on the internet using an actual structural firefighting nozzle and not one of those ancient occupant hose nozzles that are insanely flow restricting. But maybe a gauge on the pump discharge? Is the pump able to get adequate pressure to the nozzle? Is it a 75 or 100 psi nozzle? Are you flowing at least 150 gpm?
Edit: Just read another comment saying this is a transfer pump and not a high pressure pump. I would suggest if you are going to be using such low pressures (I can tell by the kinking in the line just from you holding it), that you try a 2.5" hose with a 15/16" nozzle tip. This should be able to produce adequate fire flow at nozzle pressures as low as 40 psi with minimal friction loss.
if thats full power, better ditch it and grab a harbor freight 2inch trash pump
Too much talking and don't star
Great Video! Let’s work together to help others…..
Thank you, what you have in mind?