@Jehugarcia Where I live there is no electrical vehicle infrastructure at all. I do own a Lectric XP 2.0 which is a 48v powered ebike. This looks pretty plug and play. What is the amp hours of this battery pack, I'd have to double it anyways, but I'm curious. Are all the parts available on your shop?
Your channel is akin to Linux in the computer world. Open source is to the benefit of everyone involved. Sharing knowledge is only going to make the industry stronger and better. Thank you for your videos I am know understanding the inner workings of my power station. One day I will make my own the way I want it to work.
Great videos my Hispanic brother. This Jamaican guy learned DIY battery setup(s) from you. I've put many of my friends and family to your channel. They love it. We've learned so much from you.
Some day I hope to build battery packs using your pcb boards, but for now, I'm still harvesting LiFePO4 and building battery packs. Great job, and thanks for making it Open Source!
It would be great if you could drop after the video or to your home page a list of must components needed + nice to have like the little display and BMS needed. Or have a link to point to list of goods needed for the project.
Great idea. Why not moving the BMS connector further out and get rid of the spacers? More parts equals more resistance and potential failure points. I think the thick negative cable goes on the BMS. Indeed, you need pretty good compression, otherwise the terminals could be damaged when the battery expands. Is there a way to have a flexible PCB between terminals? That would be awesome!
I know you don't really ship to the UK and you use a shipping service but it's not another company that I can just get these directly to the UK. Thanks!.
Looks nice, great video. Regarding pricing, it looks like all the components needed add up to a bit over $600. Amazon has complete 24V 100Ah batteries for less than or equal to that price. Did I miscalculate or miss something? Thank you again.
I have wondered this too. Whether it's better to build one of these or to buy an existing 100 AH battery with built-in BMS or to build one of these. I think these may have an output advantage. That you can pull a LOT at once and the pre-made batteries maybe don't have that capability.
Hi there, is there a video of this product for a 12v diy battery? I know you have assembled thousands of those, but i like the convenience of the pcbway board with the bms plug and play port.
My dude do you make a busbar for newer prismatic cells? I have the EVE LF304. They have dual female mounting mounting terminals that add about 17mm height to the cells.
It would be cool to have a second board without the bms connector and make it just a bit shorter so it acts as the spacer and helps carry load. That eliminates spacer misplacement.
@@jehugarcia if the current are carried by the spaces y don't know why are necessary this big board if is only carrying the small signal 😅 I can carry this signal with few wires
Hello. I bought 16 EVE brand 280ah cells to make a 48v 280ah battery pack. I also bought JK BMS, it also has other connection equipment. However, during the final assembly, I could not decide what I should put as an insulator between the cells. They install epoxy sheets in commercial products. I don't have any epoxy sheets. I am thinking of using corrugated (cardboard / cardboard sheet etc.) for both insulator and heat ventilation, but I do not know if there is a fire risk in this. As long as there is no arc or heated cable, I do not think there will be an ignition due to cell temperature. Because if that degree of heat is released, the cell is already dead. WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE?
If the battery gets hot enough to ignite cardboard on contact, then the most likely the BMS has failed and the battery will probably vent gases. I am looking for a separator that allows air flow. I have seen a CATL power pack for telecoms with such a design. Perhaps a guy skilled in 3D printing can design one.
can you do a thermal scan on the PCB? most PCB are build with super thin copper and power electronics would heat up with thin conductors .. perhaps a fire risk.. but also a wasteful battery.
I would like to build 2 batteries, I am using 280 ah cells and and will configure them to 24 volts.. I will then hook them in parallel and then into a Victron system. I will run 4-540 watt panels and each panel is rated at 49.3 volts MY question is which BMS should I run to to run these batteries
Through-hole parts are far easier and simpler for DIY.. a simple soldering iron and skills are all that is required. And these projects are intended for DIY.
@@ernestgalvan9037 True enough, but he could also include the PCBS with the connectors already mounted too :) OR make the pcb stick out a bit so the connector pins are not causing an issue.
Great Job ... why not extend the board our a quarter in to accommodate the plug for the batgo... this would eliminate the spacer and the chance of heat building up
Hi Jehu, Great video and very informative, THinking about using these cells for my Solar battery bank. How would I use the same PCB-Way boards to use a BMS in this build? I want to upgrade my existing 18650 battery bank to Lipo4. I really appreciate any help you can provide.
i been waiting so long for you to maqke videos about 72v-96v setups like this because i cant ever use low voltage setups and would buy so much stuff from you to make my projects come to life but it seems your focus is only to certain project for people that do either solar and or powerwalls but will you be doing higher voltage video setups soon? for like motors that require 72v-96v i would and so many other would buy more things knowing you made videos for those on here with that type of theme.
@Andy Lee Robinson hehe well I do many things besides learning how to build batteries, nothing is rocket science but if you don't know you just don't know. I can tell you to try and build some things I know how to do and for you it would feel like rocket science because you wouldn't know how to even start it and that's only due to not knowing about it.... nothing is hard if you already know.
@Andy Lee Robinson ya but I want to see his specific products made in a video with boards he creates for them and all that , thanks tho for the advise.
What gauge wire would be sensible for the terminal connection cables from this battery. I would like to connect battery to my Bluetti AC200Max. Was going to ask this question on Facebook, but my account has been blocked - no idea why.....🤔
I think your videos are awesome. Please don’t misunderstand. What makes no sense is why you wouldn’t sale theses projects as a complete kit? I understand you live in California and California taxes are high. That said, setting up a distribution site in a more friendly state can’t be that complicated. The benefits far outweigh the hassle. Feel free to contact me here in Florida. I may be interested in helping you out.
Any 2.54mm pitch connector should work if it has pins sticking out on one side and can be plugged in to a JST XH terminal. Pretty sure Jehu is using a dupont style connector here which is very similar to the JST XH. 8S JST XH 2.54mm is going to be more common. Yes, confusing its 9pins or 9P but is referred to as 8S because its 8 cells in series and then theres the negative. JST will usually use 8S, dupont is more likely to say 9p
Why would anyone spend money on a PCB for battery just take some copper tube flatten it out and use it as a bus bar maybe put some solder leaves at the edges where it meets the battery
Balancing 203 mV on LFP, by the ISDT? Seriously? haha. Cell #1 is mostly fully changed, while others are mostly discharged. You should note that such cells should be top balanced before combining them together to a battery.
Maybe the trash cells you are using require pre balancing. LEV60 cells are new high quality within 10mv from the factory, I had to charge that one cell to demonstrate out of balance situation for video.
@@jehugarcia if that was for intention - that's fine, but you could give it a word to indicate it, as it looked not so professional from your side to try balance such pack by the ISDB, as it would take months or so. I have the BattGO too, I know it does really tiny current when balancing.
Lesson number one, never ever go with a 24 volt system, firstly it's far more costly than a 12 volt for example the cost of inverters for a 24 volt system your looking at up to 10X the cost, secondly companies make 12 volt products such as off grid refrigerators and TV's, thirdly the are actually stronger in the way they handle current and much safer, with lithium ion batteries the higher the volts the higher the fire risk and chance of exploding batteries
1. Yes it’s slightly more costly but if you are building a large bank, there are huge advantages with high voltage. 2. There are plenty of options for 12v or 24v accessories, if not getting a single 24-12v converter. 3. Power loss in the cable is less and you can use smaller cables because you can get the same power with less current. Lost power equals heat, the relationship is Power=current^2*resistance. 4. LiFePo4 don’t have thermal runaway conditions like other lithium batteries and any decent BMS will prevent scenarios that excessively heat up the battery. 12 volts is dumb, the only reason it’s used is because that’s what cars use now. In industry electrical systems 28v is considered safe enough to work with out special equipment.
😂 you dont know what you are talking about. The main reason to go with 24v or 48v is the ability to use smaller cable and scale higher wattage. If your inverter is 2400watt the 12volt will require 200 amps cable (1/0 or 2/0), while the 24volt will only need 100 amp cable.
This video is sponsored by PCBway www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/24v_Lithium_Battery_Busbar_for_LEV60F_LiFePO4_cells_2c572a00.html
@Jehugarcia Where I live there is no electrical vehicle infrastructure at all. I do own a Lectric XP 2.0 which is a 48v powered ebike. This looks pretty plug and play. What is the amp hours of this battery pack, I'd have to double it anyways, but I'm curious. Are all the parts available on your shop?
Your channel is akin to Linux in the computer world. Open source is to the benefit of everyone involved. Sharing knowledge is only going to make the industry stronger and better. Thank you for your videos I am know understanding the inner workings of my power station. One day I will make my own the way I want it to work.
Great videos my Hispanic brother. This Jamaican guy learned DIY battery setup(s) from you. I've put many of my friends and family to your channel. They love it. We've learned so much from you.
Some day I hope to build battery packs using your pcb boards, but for now, I'm still harvesting LiFePO4 and building battery packs. Great job, and thanks for making it Open Source!
Under the nuts was good to put washers and on the cells terminals before mounting the PCB and bars as well .
Our products are assembled using PCBs, and so far, the feedback received has been very good😀
Thanks amigo, I appreciate you &
ur time and effort. Like you, I am a long time DIY curious man
Love it nice video question does that bms have low or high voltage disconnect
It would be great if you could drop after the video or to your home page a list of must components needed + nice to have like the little display and BMS needed. Or have a link to point to list of goods needed for the project.
Great idea. Why not moving the BMS connector further out and get rid of the spacers? More parts equals more resistance and potential failure points. I think the thick negative cable goes on the BMS. Indeed, you need pretty good compression, otherwise the terminals could be damaged when the battery expands. Is there a way to have a flexible PCB between terminals? That would be awesome!
You do never stop to amaze us!
I know you don't really ship to the UK and you use a shipping service but it's not another company that I can just get these directly to the UK. Thanks!.
Looks nice, great video.
Regarding pricing, it looks like all the components needed add up to a bit over $600. Amazon has complete 24V 100Ah batteries for less than or equal to that price. Did I miscalculate or miss something?
Thank you again.
I have wondered this too. Whether it's better to build one of these or to buy an existing 100 AH battery with built-in BMS or to build one of these. I think these may have an output advantage. That you can pull a LOT at once and the pre-made batteries maybe don't have that capability.
I love these, I love these cells. Awesome!
Do you leave the balancer on continuously?
Would you consider making this board for a larger cells?
Hi there, is there a video of this product for a 12v diy battery? I know you have assembled thousands of those, but i like the convenience of the pcbway board with the bms plug and play port.
ua-cam.com/video/1vfzpJmBsBU/v-deo.html
@@jehugarcia thanks
My dude do you make a busbar for newer prismatic cells? I have the EVE LF304. They have dual female mounting mounting terminals that add about 17mm height to the cells.
I need to build a 36 volt pack for a ego golf cart. Any recommendations ? Thanks !
It would be cool to have a second board without the bms connector and make it just a bit shorter so it acts as the spacer and helps carry load. That eliminates spacer misplacement.
Yeah but that would double the price
@@jehugarciawhy aren't you using smd connector so you don't need the spacers 😅
Because I need spacers to carry current
@@jehugarcia if the current are carried by the spaces y don't know why are necessary this big board if is only carrying the small signal 😅 I can carry this signal with few wires
It’s not necessary, you can use paper clips or a wire hanger to connect your cells together. Million ways to do this
Hello.
I bought 16 EVE brand 280ah cells to make a 48v 280ah battery pack. I also bought JK BMS, it also has other connection equipment. However, during the final assembly, I could not decide what I should put as an insulator between the cells. They install epoxy sheets in commercial products. I don't have any epoxy sheets. I am thinking of using corrugated (cardboard / cardboard sheet etc.) for both insulator and heat ventilation, but I do not know if there is a fire risk in this. As long as there is no arc or heated cable, I do not think there will be an ignition due to cell temperature. Because if that degree of heat is released, the cell is already dead. WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE?
Yeah if the cells are hot enough to ignite the isolating material they are in trouble so you have bigger problems
If the battery gets hot enough to ignite cardboard on contact, then the most likely the BMS has failed and the battery will probably vent gases. I am looking for a separator that allows air flow. I have seen a CATL power pack for telecoms with such a design. Perhaps a guy skilled in 3D printing can design one.
Can you do a 48 volt golfcart batteries setup with charger? Thanks Martin
You can
Will these batteries series up and make say 144 volt for an ev project im considering, coupled to a hypa 9 , many thanks Ian Barry uk.
Yes you can series these to any voltage you need
Can you please make a "fat" version of the 24v LifePo4s with these cells? ❤
how much do these differ from Lev40 cells found in PHEV mitsubishi cars?
These LiFePO4 and 74Ah
More research required I think. Thanks for your work
More research required I think. Thanks for your work
can you do a thermal scan on the PCB? most PCB are build with super thin copper and power electronics would heat up with thin conductors .. perhaps a fire risk.. but also a wasteful battery.
Materials recommendations?
Thanks 🙏🏻
I would like to build 2 batteries, I am using 280 ah cells and and will configure them to 24 volts.. I will then hook them in parallel and then into a Victron system. I will run 4-540 watt panels and each panel is rated at 49.3 volts MY question is which BMS should I run to to run these batteries
Just look for any 8s bms designed for Lifepo4, why are you asking for a specific suggestion?
Oh yes one thing I don’t this I added I have 32 cells and will configure them into 2-16 cell 24 volt batteries
@@jehugarcia they will be configured into 2 - 16s batteries
16 cells yield 48v not 24v
@@jehugarcia not always Can be configured into 24
Could always use a SMD version of the screw terminals too..
Oh yeah, but I haven’t mastered smd soldering yet.
@@jehugarcia Extremely simple on larger parts like those :) If i lived closer id offer to help you build a ton of boards !
Through-hole parts are far easier and simpler for DIY.. a simple soldering iron and skills are all that is required.
And these projects are intended for DIY.
@@ernestgalvan9037 True enough, but he could also include the PCBS with the connectors already mounted too :) OR make the pcb stick out a bit so the connector pins are not causing an issue.
Great Job ... why not extend the board our a quarter in to accommodate the plug for the batgo... this would eliminate the spacer and the chance of heat building up
Because the spacers also carry current, so it’s better if they are there if you need more than 100A continuous
@@jehugarcia Can a PCB be made to carry 100A current?
Really need to put those cells in traction and compress them. I'd be a bit worried about expansion breaking the PCB. EDIT: (5:00 mins in) oh.. ok. 😁
maybe on other thought ..it would be great if there was two tabs one for the bms and one for the batgo
Yeah I thought of that, next batch
In emergency can your car be plug into your invertor to charge you battery bank?
please suggest/sell reliable BMS's for Lipo and Lifepo4 3s,4s,5s etc
Question, could be used for 48v putting two in series with the same BMS
yes, or just get the 48v version jag35.com/products/48v-16s-busbar-pcbs-for-lev60f-cells
Hi Jehu, Great video and very informative, THinking about using these cells for my Solar battery bank. How would I use the same PCB-Way boards to use a BMS in this build? I want to upgrade my existing 18650 battery bank to Lipo4. I really appreciate any help you can provide.
OUTSTANDING!!!!!!
i been waiting so long for you to maqke videos about 72v-96v setups like this because i cant ever use low voltage setups and would buy so much stuff from you to make my projects come to life but it seems your focus is only to certain project for people that do either solar and or powerwalls but will you be doing higher voltage video setups soon? for like motors that require 72v-96v i would and so many other would buy more things knowing you made videos for those on here with that type of theme.
Very few people request high voltage setups. What kind of motors do you power? EV?
Just put three or four of these in series with a 24S or 32S balancer. It's not rocket science.
@Andy Lee Robinson hehe well I do many things besides learning how to build batteries, nothing is rocket science but if you don't know you just don't know. I can tell you to try and build some things I know how to do and for you it would feel like rocket science because you wouldn't know how to even start it and that's only due to not knowing about it.... nothing is hard if you already know.
@@dreamkiss4u all the information you need is on UA-cam.
@Andy Lee Robinson ya but I want to see his specific products made in a video with boards he creates for them and all that , thanks tho for the advise.
Also, does anyone know if the recommended bms has both high and low temperature protection? I did not see it mentioned in the linked page. Thank you.
🙌🏽🙌🏽🔋🔋 love the design are you going to be selling the boards for 18650 modules of the picture you posted on your tube the other day
Yes
What gauge wire would be sensible for the terminal connection cables from this battery. I would like to connect battery to my Bluetti AC200Max. Was going to ask this question on Facebook, but my account has been blocked - no idea why.....🤔
12 awg should do it
Is it overkill to put that greenish fish paper in between cells, I wonder what the reasoning is for insulating the cells from each other?
Not overkill, especially If battery will live in harsh environment
Think cars, boats, any application with extreme vibrations and the cells may rub damaging their paper thin blue insulation.
I think your videos are awesome. Please don’t misunderstand. What makes no sense is why you wouldn’t sale theses projects as a complete kit? I understand you live in California and California taxes are high. That said, setting up a distribution site in a more friendly state can’t be that complicated. The benefits far outweigh the hassle. Feel free to contact me here in Florida. I may be interested in helping you out.
I do sell kits, check jag35.com
Cool I signed up for News letter.Thanks man!
😄👍Good Stuff, Great Tips
Quick question can that power a small ev if I make my own?
No way
Yes, these can do 180A continuous and 600A for 10 seconds
@jehugarcia thanks for responding
Can you put links to the various items in the description pls...
It’s in the linked project page
please tell me your offering the cable also
Any 2.54mm pitch connector should work if it has pins sticking out on one side and can be plugged in to a JST XH terminal. Pretty sure Jehu is using a dupont style connector here which is very similar to the JST XH. 8S JST XH 2.54mm is going to be more common. Yes, confusing its 9pins or 9P but is referred to as 8S because its 8 cells in series and then theres the negative. JST will usually use 8S, dupont is more likely to say 9p
@@ericklein5097 thanks for the reply I"ll take a look
Can I build a 48V system like this?
Yes, we have the 48v board here jag35.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/48v-16s-busbar-pcbs-for-lev60f-cells
Wow nice,,,I like the battery,,, can't you send me ahh battery like that,,,
This is a great idea but it's really expensive to produce this PCBs :/
About the same cost as buying $3 busbars on AliExpress
@@jehugarcia sadly for me it's around 116$ for the PCBs and almost 100$ for the shipping :(
👍👍👍
48V!!!!
You didn't like to any BMS's. You got the bus bars, and batteries covered, but no BMS.
Primer comentario 😂
Why would anyone spend money on a PCB for battery just take some copper tube flatten it out and use it as a bus bar maybe put some solder leaves at the edges where it meets the battery
Same reason people buy cars instead of walking….. because they can/ because it’s easier and faster
@@jehugarcia stupid is the man who spends money on pcb bus bars, they do not work as well as copper with tinned adages
You are stupid for buying batteries, my ancestors and yours lived entire lifespans whiteout them
Balancing 203 mV on LFP, by the ISDT? Seriously? haha.
Cell #1 is mostly fully changed, while others are mostly discharged. You should note that such cells should be top balanced before combining them together to a battery.
Maybe the trash cells you are using require pre balancing. LEV60 cells are new high quality within 10mv from the factory, I had to charge that one cell to demonstrate out of balance situation for video.
And I’ve balanced a 16kwh pack with battgo before, So yes if you know what you are doing, that’s all you need
@@jehugarcia if that was for intention - that's fine, but you could give it a word to indicate it, as it looked not so professional from your side to try balance such pack by the ISDB, as it would take months or so. I have the BattGO too, I know it does really tiny current when balancing.
only dumb viewers assume things, my viewers are usually smarter than this
Lesson number one, never ever go with a 24 volt system, firstly it's far more costly than a 12 volt for example the cost of inverters for a 24 volt system your looking at up to 10X the cost, secondly companies make 12 volt products such as off grid refrigerators and TV's, thirdly the are actually stronger in the way they handle current and much safer, with lithium ion batteries the higher the volts the higher the fire risk and chance of exploding batteries
I don't think you know what you are talking about 🤭
Lol definitely don't know what your talking about
1. Yes it’s slightly more costly but if you are building a large bank, there are huge advantages with high voltage.
2. There are plenty of options for 12v or 24v accessories, if not getting a single 24-12v converter.
3. Power loss in the cable is less and you can use smaller cables because you can get the same power with less current. Lost power equals heat, the relationship is Power=current^2*resistance.
4. LiFePo4 don’t have thermal runaway conditions like other lithium batteries and any decent BMS will prevent scenarios that excessively heat up the battery.
12 volts is dumb, the only reason it’s used is because that’s what cars use now. In industry electrical systems 28v is considered safe enough to work with out special equipment.
😂 you dont know what you are talking about. The main reason to go with 24v or 48v is the ability to use smaller cable and scale higher wattage. If your inverter is 2400watt the 12volt will require 200 amps cable (1/0 or 2/0), while the 24volt will only need 100 amp cable.
Go back to school mate. You are utterly ignorant. Read comments above for clues.