Knees felt weak when showing that Boley, what a beauty! 😮 Aha it's no ball bearings, it's plain bearings, I see, nice to see the whole process, thank you! I have an old Lorch 6 mm lathe in nice condition which needs a overhaul.
the off center bit is a drive, you use a bow, like a 1" archery bow, but of brass, this operates the gear like a foot operated sewing machine, so you can feel if something is amiss, this turns the on axis center part, by rubber belts, as you are only very lightly polishing the part, so you don't want to go too far.
@@csspinnerUSED! Just want to tell you how much I enjoy your channel! One of your vids popped up on my feed a week or so back, and I was instantly hooked! Thanks so much for taking the considerable time and effort to produce these excellent episodes! The quality of these vids is great!
The stems are specific to the case, but the winding square is standard for an 18S pocket watch. I designed the new stem as comparison with the original, factoring in the changes I wanted to make to the detents. The 8mm nomenclature refers to the shank size of the collects that fit into the headstock
Learned something from this video 🤔 yeah I did 👍 I learned that I’m a dumbass !!! But I’m really glad that your not 👍 your videos are 100% awesome 😎 and I’m glad you post such amazing videos 👍👍👍
Omg, my heart stopped at 5:09 when you start hitting onto the back side of the conical bushing... That shaft is keyed and the bushing needs to fit into the key (I hope you did that, it is hard to tell from the video). In no event, should you go straight to hitting the headstock with wood/bronze/brass as you will risk damaging the thread and jamming the bushing.
Everything was aligned before I started tapping. It’s all friction fit together, tightly. This was a similar process to other literature and guides for headstock servicing. Can you recommend an alternative approach? Lathe has many hours on it since then and no issues.
@@csspinner Not sure how to describe without an image, but at 5:11, when you place that brass part at the end of the shaft, you can see it sits very high - the reason for that is that there is a key on that conical bushing that you need to align with with the shaft slot - you shouldn't need to tap that back part in as it is actually the nut that controls the friction (when you spin the shaft at 5:17 you can see the keyed slot briefly under your fingertips).
@@1sashimi11 yea I get what you’re saying. I definitely aligned the slot. But there’s no way it would press in all the way without tapping it in. I had it apart some time after that and the key was still there 🤷♂️
@@1sashimi11 also here was one of the references I used to learn how to assemble a headstock. He also points out the key, aligns it, and still needs to tap it into place. ua-cam.com/video/DL6oKA8vXs0/v-deo.html
@@1sashimi11 anyway you’ve always given me good advice, so I trust your opinion on it. I will have to see if I can drive it home with just screwing on the nut next time I need to reassemble
That is a rare lathe I would think. Could you work on a Hamilton Engineers Corps USA #531. It does run but I can't get the bezel off to pull the little tab for setting?
Did anybody tell you yet that the attachment @2:12 is a Jacot Pivot Lathe type attachment used for burnishing and polishing pivots yet? This is used with a bow. Ask me if you need more info, like how to used an ID card holder with retractable cord as a vastly superior alternative to a bow. The reason you need to do this manually is that burnishing is a back and forth process to case harden the surface and remove the least amount of material as possible. I'm pretty sure you have the same jacot pivot lathe as me, but not sure if you know the ID card holder tip?
Absolutely riveting! I really knew nothing about watch lathes… now I do! It's a beautiful tool and I enjoyed seeing you take it apart and service it. Slick trick joining the drive belt, too! 😀
the 'off axis' center is like that on a jacot tool, for driving the wheels, while giving room to fit the burnisher onto the pivot, the tailstock accessory holds the other end of the wheel (not being worked on)- to stabilise the axis, otherwise you can get a tapered shaft.
Neat job! Congratulations on the lathe. It looks truly traditional, a museum piece even, like many of your tools. I imagine their total worth must be impressive. Please say thanks for me to Mrs Spinner, who accompanies you so splendidly on the piano.
(2:11) that is safety pulley work with tapered holes lathe center plate (2:17) and jacot drum (2:20) , you can use dog (2:07) or Bergeon 30090 to drive the parts with no spokes parts such as cannon pinion or winding stem , or use the pin on pully to drive the pars with spokes such as gear and balance wheel . You can drive that by bow like jacot tool , or you can use motor and thinner belt to drive the safety pully , and adjust the tight or loose of belt by change the angle of pully arm .
Very nice Lathe. extremely well appointed. great video. and yeah the diamond sharpening cards are the best, very fast with HHS. and they do the job with carbide with patience, the file rest is something i lack.
I've recently acquired something closer to a 6mm Lorsch lathe that needs a lot of love. Not sure it can be restored, but there were some things you did here that help a lot with my journey, particularly the bit about fusing the cables against the hot razor blade. Thanks!
I loved this video. I just want to know how you know how to take all of that vintage gear apart, and more importantly (just like a watch) put it back together and have it still work.
Thank you! I know others that have lathes and their designs are very similar. While this was my first time laying hands on this one, I had already done the research.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I use steel rod that’s hardened and then tempered to a blue color. Allows it to be easily cut by my carbide gravers, yet appropriate and suitable for use as most watch components (balance staffs, pivots, stems, etc). Esslinger sells these and their packs contain an assortment of different sized rods
Fantastic. Most entertaining video..especially the 'new' lathe cleaning and preping for it to be put to use. Love your new 'murphy' work bench too. How did you work the new stem to function properly without a template of some sort...- just by trial and error..? Great job. Kudos
Thanks. Yes on the trial and error. There were parts of the old stem that I used as a reference. Made things larger than needed, then tweaked down to size for final fitment
I love that Murphy desk setup! I'm using a folding desk for mine as well! And, every time I try threading rods of that diameter, my material always slips in the collet unless I cinch it down uncomfortably tight. Is that normal? x.x
Thanks, George! Yes I get the same slippage unless I really torque it down. I’m always fearful of snapping the handle off the drawbar with how tight I need it to be
Bruce, machining guidelines recommend around 700-800rpm for steel- though that could vary depending on temper. The harder the material, the slower to go (example- for blued steel I usually drop a couple hundred rpm). Something soft like brass I can get away with over 1000 rpm. Though that’s all a guideline. What I really shoot for is nice, long curly swarf from the work. If the graver seems like it’s sliding and skipping over the top then it’s likely too fast and you end up burnishing the work instead
Looking forward to future adventures with the lathe. Found the stem build quite interesting. How did you know the correct shape required? Did you have a build drawing? Thanks for your time.
Thanks, John. For the shape I estimated based on the position of failing detent on the one I was replacing. I used a rod about the same width and surprisingly the crown threaded fine. I thought I would need to rethread it with Swiss
That lathe looks like a tool guys dream.
Knees felt weak when showing that Boley, what a beauty! 😮
Aha it's no ball bearings, it's plain bearings, I see, nice to see the whole process, thank you! I have an old Lorch 6 mm lathe in nice condition which needs a overhaul.
Those lorch lathes are gorgeous as well. I have a soft spot for these old machines. They outlived their original owners and will outlive us as well.
I am in LOVE with such a so good tools. I have a complete lathe from Bergeon , from the 70ies. And so happy with it!!!
Absolutely interesting video, it’s a part of watchmaking that I don’t know ! ✨👌
Thanks, Alain! It’s what I love about this hobby
@@csspinner Absolutely there are so many things to learn ! For my part I made some mistake on a Waltham 1883 18s and of course I learn so much ! 🤪
I just purchased a peerless lathe that needs a little tlc. This video was really helpful. Thank you.
the off center bit is a drive, you use a bow, like a 1" archery bow, but of brass, this operates the gear like a foot operated sewing machine, so you can feel if something is amiss, this turns the on axis center part, by rubber belts, as you are only very lightly polishing the part, so you don't want to go too far.
I had a heart attack when I clicked the link to the book in the description. $2500.00!?!?!? Can I just borrow yours? Lol
@@tomt9543 yikes. Something changed there. It used to be $100 usd
@@csspinnerUSED! Just want to tell you how much I enjoy your channel! One of your vids popped up on my feed a week or so back, and I was instantly hooked! Thanks so much for taking the considerable time and effort to produce these excellent episodes! The quality of these vids is great!
That's a great investment. I'm now retired but, as a carpenter, I was always prepared to invest in good tools that made my work easier & better.
Is that unknown thing you showed for holding a tool in position for lathing? How did you know the screw pitch?
Wonderful and informative video. Where did the specs for the stem come from? What does the lathe description of 8mm refer to?
The stems are specific to the case, but the winding square is standard for an 18S pocket watch. I designed the new stem as comparison with the original, factoring in the changes I wanted to make to the detents. The 8mm nomenclature refers to the shank size of the collects that fit into the headstock
fantastic. Would you be able to supply the ebay seller of the graver blanks please. Currently looking for some.
The seller is “favoriteusa”
@@csspinner thank you so much
You need a more rigid base for that lathe I’m sorry to say. The vibrations will eventually give you trouble and headaches.
Thanks for the feedback.
Love it! Murphy table and new lathe are the bomb!
Don't even want to know the cost of that awesome lathe setup and accessories.... 😢
Learned something from this video 🤔 yeah I did 👍 I learned that I’m a dumbass !!! But I’m really glad that your not 👍 your videos are 100% awesome 😎 and I’m glad you post such amazing videos 👍👍👍
Funny how you say you don't do this professionally or anything. But you have thousands of dollars worth Of tools to do all of this stuff
Omg, my heart stopped at 5:09 when you start hitting onto the back side of the conical bushing... That shaft is keyed and the bushing needs to fit into the key (I hope you did that, it is hard to tell from the video). In no event, should you go straight to hitting the headstock with wood/bronze/brass as you will risk damaging the thread and jamming the bushing.
Everything was aligned before I started tapping. It’s all friction fit together, tightly. This was a similar process to other literature and guides for headstock servicing. Can you recommend an alternative approach? Lathe has many hours on it since then and no issues.
@@csspinner Not sure how to describe without an image, but at 5:11, when you place that brass part at the end of the shaft, you can see it sits very high - the reason for that is that there is a key on that conical bushing that you need to align with with the shaft slot - you shouldn't need to tap that back part in as it is actually the nut that controls the friction (when you spin the shaft at 5:17 you can see the keyed slot briefly under your fingertips).
@@1sashimi11 yea I get what you’re saying. I definitely aligned the slot. But there’s no way it would press in all the way without tapping it in. I had it apart some time after that and the key was still there 🤷♂️
@@1sashimi11 also here was one of the references I used to learn how to assemble a headstock. He also points out the key, aligns it, and still needs to tap it into place. ua-cam.com/video/DL6oKA8vXs0/v-deo.html
@@1sashimi11 anyway you’ve always given me good advice, so I trust your opinion on it. I will have to see if I can drive it home with just screwing on the nut next time I need to reassemble
Hehe.. He said "Frikkin" hehe.. Oh, "Franken" bleh
A bit smaller than my own lathe. However, I wouldn't mind one of that size sometimes.
I learned that I'll never be able to do this, but I liked watching it very much.
Love your tool collection! Some of the repairs I have watched you do have amazed me. Are you a machinist by trade?
Thank you! No , my day job is in software engineering
I think that piece maybe a safty pulley it lets the piece slip if you dig to deep with your graver..Practical Watch Repair by Donald de Carlo pg 203,
Makes sense.
Beautiful machinery that is being well utilized by the right craftsman..a marriage made in heaven.
Hi!
Do you still remember how much the lathe cost?
Thanks
@@rares2 I think it was around $2500
That is a rare lathe I would think. Could you work on a Hamilton Engineers Corps USA #531. It does run but I can't get the bezel off to pull the little tab for setting?
Hi Larry, please send me some more details and pictures at cspinnerwatchrepair@gmail.com
what a stunning lathe you got mate, amazing condition for its age.
Did anybody tell you yet that the attachment @2:12 is a Jacot Pivot Lathe type attachment used for burnishing and polishing pivots yet? This is used with a bow. Ask me if you need more info, like how to used an ID card holder with retractable cord as a vastly superior alternative to a bow. The reason you need to do this manually is that burnishing is a back and forth process to case harden the surface and remove the least amount of material as possible. I'm pretty sure you have the same jacot pivot lathe as me, but not sure if you know the ID card holder tip?
Absolutely riveting! I really knew nothing about watch lathes… now I do! It's a beautiful tool and I enjoyed seeing you take it apart and service it. Slick trick joining the drive belt, too! 😀
Thanks, Mike! And I like your channel. - Chris
What a great find Chris, an excellent video production
It truly is a fantastic video.
the 'off axis' center is like that on a jacot tool, for driving the wheels, while giving room to fit the burnisher onto the pivot, the tailstock accessory holds the other end of the wheel (not being worked on)- to stabilise the axis, otherwise you can get a tapered shaft.
I had to 'Spin' back for another watch of this video! It's a must-see for anyone interested in buying and learning about a watchmaking lathe.
I didn't learn something, I learned lots! Thank you so much.
I don't have a watchmakers lathe, but I still learned a lot. Thanks for posting this. Now back to the 9 X 20 to make steam engine parts.
Neat job! Congratulations on the lathe. It looks truly traditional, a museum piece even, like many of your tools. I imagine their total worth must be impressive.
Please say thanks for me to Mrs Spinner, who accompanies you so splendidly on the piano.
You have a great set of tools and awesome work going on here. Regards from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thanks, Bruce! - Chris from South Carolina USA
Chris, you make great videos
Wow is all I can say right now. Thank you for sharing with us.
I also have no idea what that guy does, I was wondering the same thing when discovering my lorch
Excellent Chris. Thoroughly enjoyed your Lathe setup and watch stem creation. Really very interesting. Very clear and concise.
Thank you!
As a machinist of 28 years, it is my professional opinion that that is Some kinda perdy!!
Excelente, una pena que vivas tan lejos....
🙂🙂👍👍
(2:11) that is safety pulley work with tapered holes lathe center plate (2:17) and jacot drum (2:20) , you can use dog (2:07) or Bergeon 30090 to drive the parts with no spokes parts such as cannon pinion or winding stem , or use the pin on pully to drive the pars with spokes such as gear and balance wheel . You can drive that by bow like jacot tool , or you can use motor and thinner belt to drive the safety pully , and adjust the tight or loose of belt by change the angle of pully arm .
Thanks so much for the response! Makes a lot more sense now.
was that a seth reference?
Looks like a Jacot tool to burnish pivots??
You’re right! I learned this lathe came with quite a few attachments sized for clicks though.
Bravo Chris. Amazing work.
Thank you!
Beautiful Lathe👌
Very nice Lathe. extremely well appointed. great video. and yeah the diamond sharpening cards are the best, very fast with HHS. and they do the job with carbide with patience, the file rest is something i lack.
I've recently acquired something closer to a 6mm Lorsch lathe that needs a lot of love. Not sure it can be restored, but there were some things you did here that help a lot with my journey, particularly the bit about fusing the cables against the hot razor blade. Thanks!
Nice Chris Thts going to help you in so many ways I think🧐
That is a nice lathe you have there mister, and a good video as well
Thank you, JD! I learned some great techniques from your videos.
I’m captivated by tools and machines. I prefer you narrating your videos!! Great setup!! Thanks for posting this. ❤
Glad you enjoyed it! More to come
me too, I am captivated by tools and machines.
is that some kind of illness?
Nice lathe and great stem build! 😉
I loved this video. I just want to know how you know how to take all of that vintage gear apart, and more importantly (just like a watch) put it back together and have it still work.
Thank you! I know others that have lathes and their designs are very similar. While this was my first time laying hands on this one, I had already done the research.
What kind of steel did you use for that stem, Chris?
Thanks for sharing your videos and expertise with all of us.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I use steel rod that’s hardened and then tempered to a blue color. Allows it to be easily cut by my carbide gravers, yet appropriate and suitable for use as most watch components (balance staffs, pivots, stems, etc). Esslinger sells these and their packs contain an assortment of different sized rods
This guys seriously a genius… i love working on watches but I would have NO IDEA how to do ANY of THAT 😂 keep up the good content
Thank you!!
Wow, that was really impressive. It’s a totally new language to me. Thanks for the fascinating video.
Thanks. I’m hoping to feature it in more videos. I have a backlog of watches I couldn’t go any further on without one
Awesome 👏 bro
Fantastic. Most entertaining video..especially the 'new' lathe cleaning and preping for it to be put to use. Love your new 'murphy' work bench too. How did you work the new stem to function properly without a template of some sort...- just by trial and error..? Great job. Kudos
Thanks. Yes on the trial and error. There were parts of the old stem that I used as a reference. Made things larger than needed, then tweaked down to size for final fitment
Well done my man. Right on. @@csspinner
Amazing!
I also want such a lathe. No clue what I will do with it but it looks amazing.
You could trim your nails 😂
I love that Murphy desk setup! I'm using a folding desk for mine as well! And, every time I try threading rods of that diameter, my material always slips in the collet unless I cinch it down uncomfortably tight. Is that normal? x.x
Thanks, George! Yes I get the same slippage unless I really torque it down. I’m always fearful of snapping the handle off the drawbar with how tight I need it to be
@@csspinner Same here. x.x Or afraid I've somehow used the wrong collet, but I'm always very careful, so... *shrugs*
wonderful video and the pocket watch :)
Thanks, Trey!
Great video & what a nice looking lathe; you are lucky to have found one in such good condition,
Thanks, Bill!
Not being very familiar with mini-lathes, could you give me a sense on how you determined the range for your speed settings?
Bruce, machining guidelines recommend around 700-800rpm for steel- though that could vary depending on temper. The harder the material, the slower to go (example- for blued steel I usually drop a couple hundred rpm). Something soft like brass I can get away with over 1000 rpm. Though that’s all a guideline. What I really shoot for is nice, long curly swarf from the work. If the graver seems like it’s sliding and skipping over the top then it’s likely too fast and you end up burnishing the work instead
@@csspinner Thanks so very much! That was exactly what I wanted to know. Much appreciated.
great video, thanks for share!
Thanks, Lori! - Chris
Horology I'm just here for the tools!!!!!! Tip for single guys.. watch the lid coming up in a restaurant and tell cute girls to "hey watch this!"
Looking forward to future adventures with the lathe. Found the stem build quite interesting. How did you know the correct shape required? Did you have a build drawing? Thanks for your time.
Thanks, John. For the shape I estimated based on the position of failing detent on the one I was replacing. I used a rod about the same width and surprisingly the crown threaded fine. I thought I would need to rethread it with Swiss