TREES THAT DON’T LIKE HINGE CUTTING: Tongue & Groove Tree Felling
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Sometimes we need the tree to hold on the stump for horizontal cover due to a complete lack of cover in an excellent location, but the only trees in the area are species that don't respond well to hinge cutting (aspen, conifer, balsam, some maples, etc). If you consider yourself a novice or weekend warrior then this advanced arborist technique may not be for you due to safety reasons. Attempt at your own risk. Wear all safety gear.
My safety gear - amzn.to/3cyK6td (Amazon)
Check out these videos from Arbot--my professional inspiration!
• Tongue and groove tree...
• Tongue and groove birch
#arborists #tree #trees #tongueandgroove #keynotch #timber #logging #logger
I've done this 3 times in the past few years on trees close to buildings. It was on trees that I could not read well. I'm not a faller by trade and often fail miserably with notches and wedges. This method is good peace of mind.
1 suggestion...there is no need to plunge a channel at the bottom. Just plunge at an angle where the cut is lower on the backside from the fall direction. The hinge lifts away from bottom as it swings.
You're a braver man than I!
Very impressive, never seen anything like it. Its good to figure out how momentum works in other areas and translate them to wood working.
Truly something to learn every time the chainsaw comes out sir! God bless!
That little dinky saw cracks me up!!
Best one of my four. Power is insane!
@@HabitatProLLC wasn't dissing it at all, I have saws from a electric to a 3120xp sounds like it runs at about bumblebee rpm, slings chips just little ones lol
Brian R Lol the way it was screaming I was waiting for that little saw to blow sky high Brain I enjoy the clip but the saw was hollering for help...
That’s the best saw there’s is. I use an arborist saw on everything I can.
The pros know this, take note.
Great work. Instead of taking out a horizontal section below the hinge, you could make a single cut upwardly slanting from the "back" side to prevent the tongue from hanging up.
Exactly my comment!😊
I can picture what you’re talking about and it sounds like it would do just fine! Thanks for checking in!
Thanks for checking in
This cut is also good for palm trees in Florida when the tree is to small for wedges and you need to control the fall. I seen a feller fell one right next to the fence. He drove is wedge in the bottom instead of cutting out the extra half inch.
Chris I believe I watched a palm tree tongue and groove cut when preparing for this one. You are correct--that is a perfect tree for it!
@@HabitatProLLC it's seems like an intelligent cut that's not very popular. I like it.
Use an open face notch and most trees will hold onto the stump because the tree hits the ground before the 2 surfaces of the face make contact and break the hinge wood.
That's true,, we used it in Southwest Michigan trimming for the power company
Similar to with a sizwheel where it allows for more hinge flex on that one side but applied to the whole bottom of the face cut.
I like your thinking
Glad you made it to youtube expert.
All I do on the channel is share my experiences in habitat and hunting. Hope you find something you enjoy that helps you on your property!
Hello neighbor. I’m in Minnesota as well. Nice work man!👍
Blew that sucker right up ;)
Thanks for showing this great technique, sure looks fun to try on proper occasion.
Cool, thanks for mentioning me! Too bad the cut didn't work out this time. I've had the same problem with aspen. They are just too brittle. Need a big wide tongue otherwise it just breaks off from the weight.
I will try that sir. Thanks for your expertise.
When I cut wood should I run the chainsaw full speed or should I back it off a little bit.
Going to practice this technique on a few before I get cocky. Thx
Good luck sir! It's usually not necessary but it's pretty fun when it works out.
I've tried this method three times now.. two of the trees tree came out of the groove (both were downhill, so they just slid out of the groove) and the third snapped the tongue off. I think this is only good for smaller trees.. but just tying the tree to the stump has the same effect haha
It's definitely a skill for the pros. My batting average isn't good with this one either!
That was SO COOL!
Thanks for checking in!
You did good regardless. Not your fault it doesn't always hold together.
Cant say I've seen that done before, very cool concept!
Have you ever ran across and Sand Oaks. (Red Oaks) that grow in the Sandy Areas. Years ago me and my buddies
were doing our yearly firewood cutting and I got some rough 1" boards from some of these trees. They have an awesome grain and with many different reddish, purple and blue tents to the color of the boards. I was all excited to do some woodworking with them and when I went to plane them they dulled and flattened the cutting edge on my 12" cutting knives. We got red oaks out near Elk River, Mn. They were very hard to work with so I could not use them for very many of my projects.
Crazy! Wonder what produced that?
That was impressive, but super dangerous!
Dean I could tell you the two words I said under my breath, but you can probably guess what they were ;)
very interesting. Illhave to give that a try on poplar and aspen down here.
Hell, that still impressed me.
Fun to try that’s for sure!
never saw this cut before, looks interesting, and a couple of times, I could have used this, prob never use it, cause I would mess it up,
It's fun Ben. There's really only a very few situations where it's useful, but sometimes I do it just to play. Gotta have fun out there right!
That was really neat!
Really fun for sure!
cOOL! Would like to have had a peak at the earlier cuts ... not seen from given camera angle (though you did explain them well)
Yes, this was back in my novice video production days. There are some great videos attached that show professionals doing this cut. That’s where I got the idea. God bless!
💖 Thanks! Really enjoyed that!! 👏 🌹 🌟
It is a fun one for sure!
I will try to be instructive more than critical to help avoid using your skid steer too often. My first observation was that your back cut wasn't high enough. I could see how the dynamics were changed enough it likely contributed to the fail. It raised and delayed the tree as it was falling instead of immediately going down, sliding on the lower face cut resulting in a "softer" landing into the groove. Elevating the tree and tongue also meant it fell from a higher position. I also saw while the tree was going down, saw kerf marks in the tongue that may have reduced the effective thickness of the tongue. Perhaps a thicker tongue would help since aspen really is a brittle wood. Hope this helps the deer!
I agree with making the tongue thicker. Using this brittle wood that has been huge.
So when you say useless for horizontal cutting do you mean the wood gets too damaged if it hits the ground too hard or because it is too hard to make long horizontal cuts when the wood is right on the ground.
Aspen doesn’t respond well to hinge cutting, and it’s fragile if hitting the ground hard. That was the reason for doing this type of cut. And then it backfired! ;)
It looked like it split from the bottom, I use a chain wrapped around the tree when I think it will split on me....
Have stopped many barber chairs and dangerous splits. You would have to make it right and just under the tongue so it didn't get in the way!
Awesome video anyway!!! Liked it alot!!!
Tight...
Hickory’s are especially bad for barber chairing in the dead of winter. Scary when they do !!!!!!
Interesting thought on the chain. Thanks for posting!
This method would seem to do a really good job of steering the fall of a difficult tree position. Seems to me he made the tongue a bit thin.
Thanks for following Lawrence. It is mainly used by tree guys in residential applications where they need complete control of felling as well as having the stem remain attached to the stump. I use it in select areas where all I have is a few aspen to work with. The tongue here is about 1/3 the diameter of the tree, but aspen is notoriously soft and snaps easily. Try...try again!
Yeah. You never really know what any tree is going to do till it comes down.
Lawrence Withrow not long enough
@@MinnesotaJake what about a regular tapered hinge situation? I mean, you stated yourself that the tree "twisted" on the way down - i.e. uneven hinge, i.e. tapered hinge - so why not just go 100% with that instead of this toung action? which frankley seemed like a big hasstle! imho, just saying.. .
@@rakjy5628 there wasn't much of a lean here to necessitate a tapered hinge, and the end goal was for the stem to remain up off the ground rather than having the hinge close and pop the stem off the stump. I think if I would have had a thicker tongue it would have stayed in the groove better and held the twist. Live and learn...at least I got out of there with the live part ;)
Even tho the end result is the same, and seems just as safe as a conversational, top, bottom, back cut, u wodnt do this type of cut production falling cos its a bit slower due to the fact it takes more cuts and patience to do, but really enjoyed watching it and cant wait to try it myself, thank u.
It's a fun one. Sometimes it fun to try something artsy right!
Definitely
great video on the subject
ideally you wouldnt be using a top handle saw though
Thanks for the feedback
Yes, many folks have mentioned that. I don’t understand the logic. This cut isn’t for a novice user anyways, nor are any bore cuts, but to say that a top handle saw should only be used when I’m dangling from a rope way up in a tree and it’s not safe with 2 feet firmly down on the ground and two hands firmly on the saw doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me.
In the description you say not to attempt if you are a novice or weekend warrior, but what if someone is a weekend warrior but they consider themselves a professional lol. Just kidding. Great technique that I will work up to as I progress
Yes, there’s many things here that are not for the novice chainsaw person. I would say, even with a standard saw, not a top handle, most people shouldn’t even try a bore cut. Then you start screwing around with all these different angles you have to cut in there and it’s one of those things where you just know your strengths and stay in your lane. 😜 I don’t spend much time doing these cuts but every once in a while it’s fun to try again.
Seriously high level skills! I was originally thinking I would try this and the result told me I’m not there yet…
Yes, I’ve only tried this a handful of times, and most of the time it’s just to see if I can do it again!
Can you explain what you mean by "horizontal cover"? What do you need the "cover" for? Can you address the reasons the aspens, conifers, etc. don't respond well to hinge cutting?
Horizontal cover means vegetation from the chest height down on a human. It is cover the whitetail uses to break up its outline and hide. Aspen and conifer have wood grain patterns that break rather than rip.
Really, I was thinking the same thing
Thanks for checking in
Thanks for checking in
This is very strange to us here in Oregon. I fell a lot of different kinds of timber. A lot of very brittle trees like Madrone and western red Cedar. I have never even heard of a tree so brittle that holding wood on a hinge is not enough to fell a tree that you do not have to bring around with a wedge. It seems like you waste a lot of timber doing it your way. The Humbolt cut yields more timber than the conventional cut. What do you do if you need to bring one around? If the tree is so brittle how do you wedge one over. I am not being critical just very curious. Thanks.
Steven this is a cut for deer habitat, not timber value. This is a type of cut for areas where hardwoods are in short supply, but we need the tree to hold on to the stump for horizontal cover (rather than lay on the ground). The timber already was harvested on this property. Check out my other videos for the rest of those details. Thanks for following!
Habitat Pro LLC That makes all the sence in the world. Thanks
The real reason they do this is to make a deer fence. High enough so they don't want to jump over and low enough so they don't want to go under. To guide them to where the hunter wants them. They are easier to shoot that way. They can soft soap it and call it a deer habitat but it certainly isn't for the benefit of the deer. It definitely is for the benefit of the hunter. They should call it a hunter habitat.
Gee David, you seem to be a real expert so I went to your channel to see what you are doing to make habitat for deer and it looked like UA-cam had deleted all your content, but then I looked at when you created this account and it turns out you are just another useless shit eating troll that is so gutless that you made a new account to post this comment rather than use your real account.
Looks great but if there's rot, it won't work. I wonder if you pass the point-of-no-return with that first notch. What should you do if you make that first cut and then find the heart isn't sound?
Traditional fell
never seen that before ! amazing......
Yes, isn’t that crazy! Fun cut!
Leaving trees hooked to stump was the purpose I assume, so why not cut large open face, back cut slowly, tree falling slowly.... do it in the summer or at least warm and juicy time of year lively smaller flexible trees?
Yes, sometimes there are only aspen and we need them to hang on. Even a couple help hold up horizontal cover until regeneration takes over. Unfortunately, in an aspen stand there is no felling slowly as the trees usually have nothing to grab on the way down. Thanks for checking in Rodney!
Seems like a lot of trouble just to get a tree on the ground. Especially when you waste so much of the butt by cutting it high. Where I'm from there's a about 3 species that will slab out if you leave your hinge to thick. But after years of cutting on logging jobs I've learned little tricks through trial and error. Things move so fast most of the time, you really don't have time to make a bunch of cuts. I'm sure it has its purpose, but not in production.
Nope, not for production. This cut is only for deer when I use it, and only for controlled felling when near structures when arborists use it.
Good idea
It was a fun one for sure!
Good video.
Thanks for checking in!
I think because the tongue was so long compared to its width that it had a lot of leverage on the base of the tongue to snap it off. If it were more like only 2x longer than its width it might be a stronger tongue.
Nice point! Leverage is an important factor in tree work and that totally makes sense.
You are correct Matt. If I had to do over again, I would definitely make the tongue thicker.
Thanks for checking in Pete
Nice job except for the end shrapnel.
I’ve got an appa appa appa appa apatite for my habba habba habba habba habitat.
Missed this one! Hilarious!
Quite the surprise for sure!
good job bro 5 stars bro
Well, I don’t know if we could give it five stars when it blew up in my face 😂 Sure was fun though!
Cool cut call it the tree grenade cut
Isn’t that the truth!
At least SOMEONE's trying to manage the forests!
Yes, getting some of this big stuff out of the way is important for wildlife
Looks dangerous don’t try this at home folks haha .. love the videos brother keep them comin ..
Yes this isn't something for the weekend warrior to consider. You are correct there.
Any chance you're aware that saw is not made to be used on the ground? It's a top handle climbing saw, it's for in tree use only.
Thanks for following Ashlee. As with any quality tool, it is best used where it is useful. I don't climb trees to cut. Note the quote off Stihl's website regarding the 201T. "Whether you're working in the tree tops or on the ground, the compact design, optimal handling and low weight make these chain saws very easy to use," said Greg Quigg, President of STIHL Limited.
Ashlee Knowlton Depends where you’re from I suppose. I could be prosecuted if I or someone under my watch used a TH saw on the ground and had an accident / got spotted by an inspector.
Based on what I’ve seen on YT there are either basically no chainsaw safety regulations in the US, or all the content creators just ignore them.
European and British content seems to follow a similar set of safety protocols to what I am used to.
Does that saw give you trouble with getting it throttled up from idle? I noticed you were hesitant to let off the throttle between cuts. I just went thru the same thing with my 201T and found out that the early ones benefit greatly from an update kit that Stihl put out in 2014. Your saw looks pretty new, so this might not apply to you but I wanted to throw it out there.
Thanks for following Cody. I run my saws at two speeds--off and full throttle. Carb issues are usually caused by idling or intermediate throttle cutting preventing the engine from burning off all the oil and fuel. This one is new so hope it has all the bells and whistles for $650! Good luck this season sir!
Ashlee Knowlton you can use a top handle anywhere. Just because you can use ot up a tree doesn't mean you cant on the ground
:36 RIP headphone users
Yes, this was my rookie days of video production. I had no idea how to split the audio and video tracks.
Wonder if this would help with bad leaning trees to prevent barber chair
No! Absolutely not!
I think the safer option here would be a bore cut if you had a leaner.
Agreed
Co to máš za lízátko? Značka Stihl super,ale do prostoru se to kácí samo. Být v lese,tak si bez traktoru ani neskrtnes😭☹️
I have no idea what you meant to say, but Google Translate came up pretty funny. Thanks for Czech-ing in!
Mom always said don't use a chainsaw WO the safety kick back bracket
Safety first with chainsaws always!
Engine sounds Weird. Video must be sped up 1.5-2X
Yes, this was back in my rookie days of video production
What trees do you use this on? Is there a certain family that doesn't like hinge cuts?
Bradley, I stick with the aspen/poplar family if I need to do this cut. It's very rare, but in mature aspen groves sometimes the stem count is thin so this is the only way to get trees to hang up off the ground for horizontal cover. The canopies of aspen are usually very sparse and weak so they collapse almost immediately. After a couple seasons the regeneration from the aspen root system is enough.
@@MinnesotaJake I've never seen a cut like this. Im very new to saw work and this is the craziest cut I've seen so far. Pretty amazing
Thanks for checking in Brad. Check out those links to the other videos that show professionals doing this cut. That would be the tongue and groove cut. Check out the hinge cut playlist here if you’d like to see more of that!
Lot of flying pieces of wood
Yes, that baby exploded when the tree twisted and the tongue let go.
Seems like you could have droped that one just normal notch and hing. That was dangerous shrapnel flying everywere
He wasn't just trying to drop it, but also to make a deer fence with it. On the ground, they can jump over. Where he was trying to put it, still attached to the stump, it's too tall to jump, too low to duck under. It failed with the shrapnel because his hinge was too uneven and thin, allowing the tongue to twist off in the groove as it fell.
Is this done just for a base tree to drop the next ones on top of to soften there fall? The tree does not live so it wouldn’t provide much side cover for how dangerous it could potentially be
I’m not dissing it I’m asking for real
In this area, and another where I first started using this cut, I didn't have anything but a few large aspen to work with. I wanted the stems off the ground so the side cover was waist high or so rather than on the dirt. The idea was to bridge the gap until the root system could work its regen magic. I bat about .500, but it sure is fun!
Will the tree live if your tongue and groove stays connected? I always thought that a third of the tree needs to remain connected to the stump for it to stay alive, but this looks like the tree would just be “resting” in the groove not necessarily “connected” to the stump which would provide the tree with nutrients.
No, this is used on trees where survivability is not probable or even remotely likely with a hinge cut. It is not something I use in large amount, since it is time consuming, but if I have a hump in the woods with a dozen aspen and nothing else then I have to keep some horizontal structure around until the aspen regeneration has blown up. I have also planted spruce and American grape vines among the felled trees to increase the diversity.
Its an open mortise and tenon hinge
It’s a fun one
Ermmm no one going to mention the fact that he is using a climbing saw in the ground ?
Sydney several have mentioned it. If you read your manual for the 201T it most certainly provides instructions on using the top handle saw on the ground. I can say it's a wonderfully powerful and handy saw. I love it!
It can be used on the ground just fine. With any saw or tool USE COMMON SENCE and you'll be amazed what you can accomplish safely. So are you saying you can't use a non-top handle saw in the tree? Holy cow people. Way too many keyboard warriors.
No one cares. Spongebobrainbow.gif
@Arborcare Tree Service the saw was made to cut wood regardless where you are.
@Arborcare Tree Service The steak knife was made for cutting steak regardless where you happen to be. I bet you've seen a traditional back handle saw used in a tree, eh?
Isn't that a climber's saw not a faller's? That's gotta be had to use that way.
I get a lot of comments from pro tree guys on that, but the logic doesn't pan out. If a saw is safe to use while hanging from a rope in a tree then it makes no sense to say it's unsafe with two feet on solid ground. This little saw is in my hands 95% of the time because it's got power and it doesn't suck the life out of my body carrying it around. I wouldn't suggest a novice do this cut, nor would I suggest a novice ever use a top handle saw.
@@HabitatProLLC I didn't use the world "safe" I said it's gotta be hard to use. As in, a lot of effort.
This little 201T is a dream to use, but not for the novice.
Sounds like a Chinese chain saw!
Yeah, this was back in my novice video production days when I didn’t know how to separate the soundtrack from the video track. Yikes!
1:00 It is already doomed.
The notch cut is too high, and the bottom cut of the notch is too steep.
There's many seasons we start the cut low, one is that if it snaps, the debris would fly at the knee or lap level, but if you start at chest height, yeah, it's coming for your face.
And we don't do Humboldt a lot, why? The steeper the bottom cut, the bigger kickback. The exceptions can be made on
1. The wood is so rare that each inch matters.
2. You are trimming braches high up. The branch is so light that it might hang on instead of breaking off, and you don't really wanna push it off from where you stand.
Brighton, are your comments directed toward a traditional felling technique? This is obviously not that and it’s only used in specific situations where you need the stem to stay off the ground. You also discussed limbing a tree and high-grade timber-there is no reason to use this cut in those situations. If you watch the entire video the only reason I kept the face cut open, greater than 90, is pointed out.
What is the orange pole with a hook on the end leaning against a tree in the background?
That is the Habitat Hook. It is a necessary tool for hinge cutting. Check out the Nick Nation series on the channel. Nick is the creator of the Habitat Hook and has a 10 acre parcel with a house that is set up to produce close encounters with mature bucks. The link to the first video in the series: ua-cam.com/video/u5GO_iC7bBQ/v-deo.html
habitathook.com
he's a sheep herder part time
Great cut, props on that. Almost everything was lined up perfect. Wrong saw for the occasion though. That limbing saw is not as safe to be using for fancy felling cuts as a standard grip setup. You are marginalizing your ability to safely control the saw on kickback, especially with all the plunge cuts and potential for premature failure with minimal hingewood
Correct. A large saw with rip chain is an excellent tool for for this.
I mean, this is cool but couldn't a wedge or two give you the same, if not, better and safer results?
The tree is still safely on the ground. There was plenty of holding wood to get it to go the direction intended. The escape route was still clear. The goal of this technique is to keep the stem from falling to the ground which you can’t do with traditional felling. Good luck the rest of the way!
@@HabitatProLLC Honestly, thank you so much for your response. This has given me more confidence in becoming an arborist. I sorry if my post seemed rude. I will definitely be referring to your videos should I have questions.
@@HabitatProLLC it must get old answering the same question over and over especially when you stated it in the video. I love the ones that say, oh I’ve been cutting for 30 years and never had to do that time waisting crap. I’m still not done with all the comments but I’m sure it will be entertaining!
Explain to me.. what is the purpose of hinging trees?....for what kind of habitat? Neighbor of mine (Iowa) did that to 80 acres of beautiful hardwood timber. Cut every tree about 8" and smaller about 4' off the ground and left them hinged. Oak, hickory, & walnut. An absolutely horrible looking tangled mess, not to mention that it was a violation of his timber reserve agreement.
These people are maintaining deer habitats. Sometimes you have nice areas that just lack horizontal cover for the animals. This way you can with little effort construct something for them to hide behind.
Every property is different and nobody can judge whether or not hinge cutting was the right thing for the property on which you speak except those who design and manage it. In some areas, hinge cutting is the best option. In others it isn't. Whatever he did is for deer to live in, not humans to look at, and I'm sure they deer love it! Thanks for following!
The real reason they do this is to make a deer fence. High enough so they don't want to jump over and low enough so they don't want to go under. To guide them to where the hunter wants them. They are easier to shoot that way. They can soft soap it and call it a deer habitat but it certainly isn't for the benefit of the deer. It definitely is for the benefit of the hunter. They should call it a hunter habitat.
David there are three reasons to hang a tree up on the stump. A nudge toward the stand is definitely one of them. I won't bore you with the other two, but one was listed in the video. We do what we do because we get to see wildlife respond to the changes we put in place, but they still beat us more often than not.
David is a troll too gutless to post on his real account so he made this one just to troll
this is a cut that i had not seen before although i have used some wild cuts in my many years of dropping trees.
i'm thinking that you consider wind/lean/other canopy as well as the tree canopy when deciding on direction of drop. anything else you think about.
i drop a lot of trees with directional cut (traditional) using the hinge or meat and controlling the depth as the tree goes into arc. seems to me, that decision has to be made even before the cut is started, is that correct. i did read the comment about leaving thicker on the back side during the cutting.
thank
You are right on. I surveyed the tree from two angles, and then chose my direction of fall. The wind here didn’t cooperate and swayed the canopy a bit which twisted the hinge causing the explosion. The only reason I use this is to try to keep the stem on the stump. Check out the pro arborists channels for this cut as well. They’re using it near homes and decks where the stem absolutely must be controlled. God bless!
is there a reason why a limbing saw is being used?
Indeed, that's a climbing saw. Not for groundwork.
It's the perfect combination of light weight and plenty of power. It's usually the only saw I have with me for cutting projects, although I am picking up a MS 171 as a backup saw that I've heard great things about!
@@TheToolnut I've always been curious and I always ask why rather than taking somebody's word for it. I'd love to see a video by professionals on why a top handle saw is only to be used in a tree, dangling from a rope, no escape route, etc. Better yet, I'd love to see a video on why a top handle saw is so bad on the ground, both feet set, straight front arm, etc. If you'd be so kind, please forward me some info because there are thousands of trees felled with this saw and not a one of them has me hanging from a rope.
It's a climbing saw, not a limbing saw.
@@HabitatProLLC A climbing or top handle saw is designed for use in the canopy of a tree. The position of the top and front handle on a climbing saw are positioned for ergonomic reasons for in tree use. Stihl make a rear handle version of there climbing saws, the MS150, MS193 and the MS 201T. These are designed for groundwork. Most online arb suppliers have required climbing credentials to be produced before they will sell you a climbing saw for some time now. Tree work is inherently dangerous and should tackled with the right equipment and training.
The only time I've ever had to utilize this cut. Is when I had obstacle in the immediate fall path. That I didn't want to crush. But more often. I just lay out short log rounds or fire wood to bridge those obstacle. And fall across them. But only if I have no other direction to wedge or jack the tree.
Correct George, that's where I found this cut being used as well. When I started using it in the whitetail woods it was purely for fun. Now I look for spots to use it because it's art! Love it!
Topping saws are not meant to be used on the ground
Did you really use a top-handle saw working on the ground, that's not safe that is it come on now....
This saw gets used more than any I have…and always on the ground. Climbing trees with power tools isn’t safe.
and this is superior over the correct face and back cut method?
No. If successful this cut keeps the stem from dropping to the ground.
Hey I'm from Germany and my English is so bad. Can someone explain me why he is doing it. So that the tree falls in the right direction?
Mainly to get the stem to hang up on the trunk. It keeps horizontal cover where there is none.
This method the slide tongue must be 2.5ft or longer. Other wise the butt kicks out twisting as shown. The longer the better. Under 3ft shits gna get real real quick.
Thanks for the tip. I copied other videos when trying this for the first time and have since found it to work better doing exactly what you suggested. Aspen is very fragile so I've also started to use thicker tongue cuts. It has worked okay. Thankfully we are usually just harvesting aspen up here, but in areas where we don't have enough timber for a harvest we have to do what we have to do to get the cover regenerating.
Topcutter on the ground... Why?
If you are in a tree or on the ground, wood cuts the same.
@@jolkraeremeark6949 those top cutters can be high risk when using on the ground.
@@jordanl5628 how are they more dangerous on the ground than in the tree?
@@jolkraeremeark6949 it's the ergonomics of the saw itself. They are designed specifically for in tree use which is why they have a top handle. When on the ground with one you have alot less control of the saw than you would with it in the tree itself. See a bent wrist on a chainsaw has far less control than a straight wrist would which is why ground saws have a rear handle and not a top handle. That's not even covering the fact that the in tree saws run at a higher rpm than ground saws. For a comparison the husqvarna t540xp (an in tree saw) has a max rmp of 10,200rmp with a 37.7cc motor running a 16in bar while the husqvarna 543xp runs at a max 9,600rmp with a 43.1cc motor, any slip up with the in tree saws and they slice right threw almost all PPE clothing you can buy (I've seen it first hand during testing). That is why they are far more dangerous on the ground than they are in the air. They were designed for in air use not ground use. Which is also why it is far more dangerous to use a ground saw in the air than it is to use an in tree saw in the air, kind of the whole reason the companies put so much r&d into in tree saws.
@@jordanl5628 my 346xp runs at 13,800 - sorry but I still fail to your logic.
hinge cutting... uh.. for what? if you want a cabin and have a skid steer.... WHY ? cut it down, do the ends and voila.. any kinda wood...
Lots of reasons for Hinge Cutting that standard felling can’t do
Camera angles could of been better to see where to cut
Yes, this is way back in my rookie days of video production. Check out the links in the video description to find the pros doing this cut.
Wish my chainsaw sounded like that. Kinda comical
Yes, this is back in my rookie days of video production
Yeah not too bad but the shatter when she toppled is dangerous. Anyone near by would have been impaled for sure! Standard fell would have been sufficient.
Standard felling doesn't keep the aspen stem on the trunk to provide horizontal cover while the regeneration takes place over the next few years. That's the only reason I use this cut. The tongue keeps the stem off the ground. I'm batting about 50% on this cut but it's so dang fun to try!
Habitat Pro LLC ah interesting, does look cool to be fair. Good educational vid.
Would have been good to get a look at the cuts while they are being made,I do this for all of my crew ,so they can get a FULL understanding of what to do,being showed something from a blind side is NO GOOD 🤙
Right on Chris. No GoPro yet :) Can check out the two links to the arborist videos where I found this method in the description. Good luck sir.
I dont understand the intro that intended to explain the purpose of such a cut.
Keeping the stem attached to the stump adds cover at eye level. I didn't want the tree to detach from the stump and fall to the ground.
What the hell was that stupid noise the saw was making!
Haha sorry Jack. I sped up the video!
I hope there is an oil gap on the wrong side of the blade because it is upside down in the chainsaw
...
all bars have it (the bar is upside down so that it gets even wear)
Surely, you can't be serious.
I am serious, and don't call me Shirley.
It's called a bar and they are meant to be reversible to even out the wear.
I can tell ya anyone that wastes that much time cutting a tree wouldn't last long on our crew. Notch and drop.
Not sure if you watched the entire video or read the captions, but this is a time when I did not want to just notch and drop. I wanted the stem hung up on the stump to provide more horizontal cover in the area for deer. The tongue and groove technique is something used when you don’t want or can’t have the stem hit the ground.
@@HabitatProLLC l can see how that would work for dropping it in a tight condition like around houses. We don't get fancy in the woods. Deer will make their own way though the woods. A lot of times the deer will start using our logging roads.
Talking about safety with his tophandle on the ground...
Max, for some reason there are many many of you commenting on this saw being used on the ground. In addition to the common sense logic that says using any saw with two feet on the ground is safer than hanging in a tree, I will leave you with a link to a promo video for Echo top handle chainsaws for you to count how many times it's being used on the ground by the pros in the video. Enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/ZrQTxSgbzEM/v-deo.html
@@HabitatProLLC jes it's not safe at all in a tree but the fact you probably don't know is that a tophandle cuts with over 25m per second that's more than a cut resistant pant can handle that's why I Said it. Plus in Germany it's even illegal to use it on the ground.
Have a nice day sorry for my bad englisch
@@HabitatProLLC actually it's far safer in the tree than it is on the ground. There is a reason why you'll never see anyone on an actual tree felling crew using a top handle on the ground on the job site. Bosses go fucking psycho when they see shit like that happen on their job site. This is why I tell the guys under me that if I ever catch them with a top handle on the ground cutting they are instantly fired for a safety violation. I don't care if they are trying to clear a 5 inch thick log on the ground they are not to use in tree saws. Also echo does not employ professional arborist for their commercials....
@@HabitatProLLC you should probably ask hmthe professionals in your area why those saws are dangerous on the ground. Let the professional arborist play with trees and maybe stick to plotting out food plots.... half the crap I saw on your website for that habitat pole involving cutting of trees will leave people dead one day.....
@@jordanl5628 there's probably 400 hours on that saw, and I've never used it in a tree. Climbing trees is dangerous. I find it interesting that there are no videos readily searchable on UA-cam on the "why not" question of using a top handle saw on the ground, firmly planted feet, both hands on the saw, straight arm, etc. You're not the first guy watching this video to say it's far safer in the tree, hanging from a rope, no feet on the ground, no escape, temptation to use one arm on the saw, etc. Seriously? That defies all logic. Nothing is safer when you climb a tree and take your feet off the ground. I'm a data driven guy. If you want to educate me then do it with actual data rather than rhetoric. If it's so dangerous, why doesn't Stihl or Echo or Husqvarna have a video on it so they cover their butt and make sure nobody using their top handle saw uses it on the ground? If you can't send me any real data, then watch your own bobber.
PS 35,YRS climbing
U don't hinge cut trees bigger than 8 inches
It is possible to hinge cut trees bigger than 8 inches, but those in the 6 to 8 inch diameter are definitely easiest and safest because of their smaller canopy size and lower diameter of heart wood. I am of the opinion that experienced chainsaw habitat professionals are able to make the educated decision on whether or not a tree is going to hinge properly and safely. I have had very good luck with green ash pushing the 2 foot diameter, but don’t recommend it to my clients who are just getting started. There are definitely no hard and fast rules in the habitat business.
Why would you use a $700 climbing saw to fell a tree?
It's plenty of power to do the job, it had my last remaining sharp chain at the time, and it happened to be with me at the time. I use the heck out of this saw!
aah, yeah...
Pretty fun cut!
You kill a tree so you can hid behind it?
Trees left attached to the stump aid in steering deer movement or hiding hunter movement or both. This aspen was cut while dormant as well, so the root system will blow out of the ground in June with tons of new food and cover.
no shortage of trees you libtarded douchebag
Perigo de se mata ainda com esse corte de doido aí!
I always remind myself when I pick up a chainsaw there’s always a chance of a major injury. Safety first!
no need.
But it sure was fun!
how about get your timber logged instead of wasting it and butchering trees
Already logged two seasons ago. This is an area left with no timber harvest so deer would use the edge.
storminnormanz Much Agree with you. MAGA ALLOVER TOWN. Don't WASTE lumber and time.
doug carter YES SIR! if its already logged you should have plenty of deer habitat from laps and stump sprouts just sayin
storminnormanz I personally don't waste time and if it's not a dangerous tree why get FANSY.SAWS AIN'T CHEAP .THANKS FOR THE HIT BACK. THEM KICK BACKS HAVE KILLED SOME VERY GOOD FREINDS OF MINE AND ALMOST KILLED ME. ✌
storminnormanz Property management we GOT.
nice cutting, but 99.5 percent of people should not attempt this...cut the damn tree down and let the undergrowth come up. Going tip first into a tree is idiotic at best.
You are correct on the percentage of people that should not attempt this cut. However, I will disagree on your opinion of the bore cut. That one should definitely be in any chainsaw user’s arsenal as it is the safest way to back cut a leaner. Happy habitat season!
Never met a tree that can't be fell using conventional methods. Seems like you waste a lot of time and wood.
The tongue and groove method is a pointed method that’s rarely used. And there are many trees that should not be felled traditionally. There are lots of vids on those if you are brushing up.
surely if your commercial cutting where no other mechanical means of cutting then this seems a waste of time ?its cool but you could of cut another tree down in the time it took you
His purpose was to make a deer fence with it, not to harvest the lumber from it. He was trying to leave it attached to the stump with that tongue and groove piece, because that height is too tall for the deer to jump over, yet too low for them to walk under. He's controlling deer movement for hunting reasons.
Well that seemed more dangerous than a normal face + Back cut.
Everything with a chainsaw carries the element of risk. This isn't necessarily more dangerous, rather just another technique to use when felling a tree. Tongue and groove tree felling is definitely for the pros, however. Thanks for checking in!
Top handled saw for ground felling is not a good practice
This little saw is a great tool. I've used it for everything except climbing a tree with spurs on and hanging there to cut off a limb. That would be unsafe.
I think a good tool should be used where it is safe to use. It's narrowminded to say this wonderful saw is safer to use strapped into a lineman's belt with spurs on hanging 60' up in a tree rather than with both feet safely on the ground.
Yes always have straight arms when using this saw, and always a sharp chain. I have a Sugoi on my hip when I'm doing detail work. They're great.
Why don't u just box it And cut it looks like a lot of SHOw
Llthe humbolt notch does not save lumber it wastes more due to the fact that the notch requires it to be up the stump further t
Han conventional notch used here in the east !The humbolt notch only advantage is that it makes removeval of a big wedge of wood easier to remove after cutting that notch I can see where in a huge tree say over five feet this method would have an advantage but it still wastes bourd feet as stump has to be higher ,imwas always told an inch of stump is worth a foot of top,I know this is not quite true but trees cut closer to the ground gets more bourd feet of lumber plus makes the skidder drivers job much nicer as he doesn't have to hit the damned high stumps with his belly pan!!
His purpose was to make a deer fence with it, not to harvest the lumber from it. He was trying to leave it attached to the stump with that tongue and groove piece that broke off, because that height is too tall for the deer to jump over, yet too low for them to walk under. He's controlling deer movement for hunting reasons.
I logged for 15 years and i never saw any reason for that im sorry but that is domb
When consulting on deer properties I am often teaching my clients the difference between timber harvest and habitat work. A timber harvest is good for the woods, and is good for wildlife in general, but is similar to carpet bombing of WWII. This particular cut is only used where there is an abundance of trees that don't hinge cut well but you need the horizontal cover for deer to feel safe immediately. This is as far away from logging as one gets.