Protecting Your Sand Blaster Window with a Screen. Does it Work?
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- If you're interested in building your own vapor blaster or other projects, you can go to my website and get the plans. arnoldsdesign.c...
In this video I compare using a window screen over your viewing glass vs not using one.
I used bare unpainted Aluminum screen in a frame that's stood off the glass about 3/4". I think in the comments before I said it was Nylon, but I looked at it closer and it's Aluminum. I don't have as much dust filling the cabinet, and there are holes and side plates on my Trinco cabinet that direct incoming air across the window, so not much dust gets on the inside of it.
I'm using aluminum screen here at 1/2" spacing. I have cross flow on my dust collection. Crushed glass is very good about not coating the glass. I had a difficult time with AlO2, but maybe it had to do with my cabinet being insulated, whereas a grounded metal cabinet might not stick as much, I'm not sure on that. I don't wear a grounding wrist strap, so AlO2 would shock me about 5 seconds or so. Sort of sucked.
@@ArnoldsDesign Yes, I have AO in my metal cabinet, have ground wire going from both gloves and to the gun, over to the conduit on the wall. Still get shocked. Airflow is down and out the bottom to the reclaimer.
Brad, did you ever try the 3x3 SS Hardware cloth as suggested below? Results ?
I did. It works great for the fine crushed glass. It extended my window life from about a month to several months. It's not as effective for glass beads though for some reason. I recorded some footage of this a while back along with a bunch of other stuff, but haven't gotten around to editing it yet.
@@ArnoldsDesign Nice. I'll have to get a piece of that mesh.
Arnold -I am a new subscriber - love your sandblast gun - foot operated? Who makes it? - Ok looks like you did - where could I get one similar - not a custom job as I dont do this for a job - just tired of my HF shit gun...
Thanks. It's my design, and machined here. It is foot operated. I sell the silver blasting guns for 150 each. They come with a boron carbide nozzle and internal jet of the customer's choice. Stainless and aluminum construction.
I wonder if you spray painted the screen (lightly) black if that would make a difference for your vision? Wire mesh on animal displays and bird cages is often painted black because (at least from a difference) the mesh disappears. It interferes with your vision much less that plain unpainted wire mesh.
That's interesting. I will look into that.
Just a thought not a professional blaster.
was thinking a sliding screen can allow for cleaning glass and could use the screen for rough cleaning then slide out of the way for fine cleaning.
Or strong magnets?
Too many options suggested but seeing through glass is just the clearest option uh?
I'm going to try the 3x3 hardware cloth. I like to change things until I'm happy with the results.
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Use led strips around window best incident light fluence
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Cam outsid from gals sold problem, focus far from Screen. then you Blasting looking true Camera.
I decided to go with aluminum screen after the first two hours of blasting and a frosted plastic protector sheet. Nope, not gonna deal with that every session. I adhere the screen to the glass via evenly spaced dollops of hot glue. The dollops provide anchoring at the same time producing a nice glass/screen stand-off gap.
To combat the visual problem, I have a *_ton_* (two 300w equivalent LEDs) of light in the cabinet. Also, the lights are not fixed. They are simply spot style housings resting on the floor grate in the back corners of the glove panel. This makes it really easy to adjust the part/light to see difficult places with ease.
So far, I'm liking the setup.
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Your mistaken regarding the screen to help protect the glass. I do professional outdoor blasting and on my blasting hood is very fine woven screen that is tightly constructed with the mesh size smaller than the abrasive being used. It prevents the abrasive from passing into the hood which doesn't require replacement like plastic or glass would.
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Hi I was the other fellow that suggested using screen. after watching this video these are my observations. first I don't have dust in my cabinet like you do. I use 50 grit blasting sand and I do get some dust but nothing like you get. I use a siphon gun made by trico I bought it from JC whitney years ago. I just run air line pressure 110 psi or so. I noticed you have some shadows in your cabinet and on your work that only get worse when you're blasting I had that until I mounted more lights, 1-100w light between the glove holes, 100w bulbs in the corners straight out from each glove hole. and on the back wall 2 more 100w bulbs mounted higher up in the center of the wall. the lights were a real improvement but they also were installed before the screen. my air filtering system consists of a 2 stage vacuum motor mounted on a 30 gallon barrel withe a 18"X 9" tractor air filter inside the barrel I have a 2 inch vacuum hose from the barrel into the side of the cabinet with another 18" X 9" air filter in the cabinet on the other side of the cabinet I have another 2" hole with a 10" round car air filter on the outside of the cabinet the allows air into the cabinet when the vacuum is running. when I start noticing dust I stop and clean the big inside filter. the inside filter is almost all dust with very little sand on th very top of the filter so when I do clean it it all goes to trash. My thoughts on screen were more on the line of every sand particle that was on it's way to hit the glass will hit the glass. with the screen I figured a bunch of it would hit the screen and it sure does. My inside dimensions of the cabinet are 4' wide 2' to the back wall and it's made of plywood. what I need most now is a homemade shaker for the hopper I just guessed at the angle of incidence of sand and i was wrong so the sand doesn't flow as well as it should to the pick up tube. I've sure enjoyed watching your videos.
I use -60 mesh crushed glass, so that's anything from 60 to extremely fine abrasive. It removes oxidation very quickly. The shaker for the hopper is a good idea. My cabinet also has plywood construction and the abrasive hangs on the sides even though a steep. I got a shaker from Mcmaster carr to settle the abrasive to the bottom too.
Try polarized glasses
But like the other people are saying, put the glass on a hinge frame and just use Saran Wrap once a day.
I haven't had a lot of luck with plastic films, but I will try Saran Wrap.
Have you tried the 3M film?
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G05 grade chilled iron media- I still have half a bag of aluminium oxide from 4 years ago when I started up dry blasting and will never use it again. As you say- too dusty and it kills engines.......
I've used stainless steel shot on aluminum before, and also sold it fore a while. It works great, though I get some intermittent siphoning because of its weight. I assume iron would have the same cleaning action. Among other things, I used SS for prepping aluminum for welding, b/c SS won't contaminate the surface with carbon.
We used to use g50 steel grit in the large blaster at our work. It was amazing, wouldnt frost the glass and almost no dust while lasting forever. It also seems to pound through the rust quicker. The only reason we switched was due to a coating process that requires a 3-5 mil surface profile which needs 36 grit alox to achieve. Broke my heart when I changed it out.
i use plexi glass and when it gets fucked up i get the paint buffing kit out and buff it clear again , only takes a couple of minutes , dirt cheap , and yes i have to do it after a couple of blasting hours , but hey its dirt cheap and easy !
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Why not cover the glass with a thin piece of clear plastic? Cheap and easy to change with a few thumb screws.
I haven't had a lot of luck with plastic, because it attracta fine particles and get coated easily. However, I haven't tried all types of clear plastics. Some might work well.
I was one that mentioned screen, but I use brass screen not sure if that would be different regarding contrast but I've never noticed that problem using it and mine is a lil finer mesh. BUT if you want the best and just not have to mess with it anymore get some diamond plated glass like what's used for a checkout scanner at the store. As mentioned in one of Dan Gelbart's videos, witch are awesome for anyone that hasn't watched them.
ua-cam.com/users/dgelbartvideos
I was wondering if someone made a hard coated glass. That would be a good option.
@@Steve_Just_Steve Hey, do you know which video he mentions that in?
@@activegrip Maybe the Prototyping video....Maybe... Its been a long time, but they are all worth watching for sure.