Thanks for pointing out min and max revs for the alternator to charge correctly. Where I was going to set my idle would have been pretty low in that range. So now I know I should bump it up more to avoid trouble. 700 RPM is looking pretty good for my application as well.
Thanks for watching Bruce! We waned to help out PA Performance. We chose the 95 amp because we figured that was all we'd need. As for the one wire set up, we plan on hitting that in a future episode. We wanted to show that there is more than one way to do this stuff.
Varmint, Your update sounds like it went well. We appreciate your kind words and hope that you'll tell your friends about us. Subscribing is free and we cover a whole bunch of different topics!
@paky66 Paky, that is exactly where Ford put it. So all we did was return it to the stock location. I will say this: I've had several of these cars and worked on a ton and never had an issue...and Ford never moved the regulator in the 5 years that they used an alternator set up (early cars were generator run), not saying it was "right" just that no warranty issues were seen and thus it was not moved. The starter comes next week with it's changes. There were no fuseable links on the '67.
@AutoRestoMod My '69 opel rekord c (production started in sep '66 and ended in '72) had fuse-wires instead of normal wires+fuses. I (wrongfully) assumed that Ford and GM shared the same technology when it came to electrics. Thanks for clearing that out.
@paky66 Paky, Ford original headlights are not well suited for Halogens. Back in the day I used a set of Halogens in a '71 Mach 1 and nearly burned the harness up. We went with an aftermarket headlight harness designed to run halogens. The install was here: Episode 11 Adding Xenon Halogen Headlinghts to a Mustang.
Ok Jeff......67 Mustang. 289 engine. Alternator pivot bolt. HEADACHE!!! So my pivot bolt is seized up. With some heat, a lot of PB blaster, and a sore back, I finally got it out of the engine block without breaking. But it is seized in the alternator. I was going to just take the bracket off, and work on it on my work bench. But then found out that requires removing the fan, and water pump pulley. Which I KNOW will lead to an entire other set of problems. Any suggestions?
We have posted a pair of diagrams for hooking up the 3G (5.0 Fox) style alternator on our web page. Check the about section below the video for a direct link to our main page. Then go to the "Diagrams" box and click on that.
@AutoRestoMod :) Opel Rekord C is a car that has similar body to Chevrolet Opala. The engines had lower displacement and the headlights were a little different. The rest of the components were the same.
I don't remember what you have done regarding headlamp harness, but i hope you have introduced some relays (with additional fuses) into the circuit, feeding the headlamps directly from the battery (through the additional fuses i mentioned before), using the current that passes through the dash switch only to command the relays. Also, the wires from the headlamps should be 4-6mmp,the original 2.5mmp is designed to a minimum for eco Why the heck would you do that? To have a smaller voltage drop.
Personally we aren't too familiar with the Isuzu 4JA1 engines. We'd recommend hitting some of the forums dedicated to Isuzu that use that platform and posing the question.
Hi guys! I did what you said to do and took my engine up to 16,000 rpm. It really doesn't put out much after, say, 5000 rpm. It was a real chore for the next 11,000 rpm. I was disappointed-perhaps I should get a tune-up.
What if you already have a dash tach? Could you please tell the viewers where to get information doing this installation with a ford factory tach dash cluster?
With a 94-95 Mustang V8 130amp alternator, I won't need a regulator, am I right? I just need to swap the pulleys and rotate the back plate 1/3 of a turn.. yeah?
Just purchased the NPD Concurs 1967 Mustang Alternator Wiring Harness and none of the colors match what you have done here. there is ... White, White/Black, Black/Yellow and Black/Red. I believe the Black/Red is Ground, and the Black/Yellow is from Alternator to the starter solenoid (which is not needed if purchase the extra thick red wire from PA Performance). However, onto the question.... Does the White or White/black go to the Green and which goes to the B-Neg terminal on the alternator. Thank you in advance.
+Kevin Tuttle Do you have a alternator diagram? We posted on on our page for the 3G. If that isn't helpful, contact Jeff directly at jford@autorestomod.com and send some pics of the harness you have.www.autorestomod.com/diagrams.html
Let me ask, i have a 91 a9l eec running an 86 engine converted to mass air. Should i upgrade as if it were an 86. Or is it as if it was an 87-93 mustang?
I had this PA Performance 3G upgrade installed on my 84 Mustang 5.0. There is a white wire off the upgraded voltage regulator that my mechanic ran to the ignition coil as it needs a 12V keyed on source. I don't think it should be tapped onto the coil. Is there a better spot to run the white wire off the reg?
what if he gets the older four pin solonoid like on the older ford trucks then he will have a s terminal with full power with key on im running my h.e.i off of it in my 73 ford and trying to upgrade my alternater as its still 40 amps
Voltage regulator under the washer bottle... that is a dumb move! It's true that the voltage regulator has a certain degree of water&dust protection, but it is not designed to be working if water is poured on it. Another thing you did not consider: when you change the alternator you also have to change the wire from the starter to the battery! You should also replace the remainig "fuse wires" with regular wires+stand-alone fuse.
your into cars can you tell me this. i can't find a high output alternator so if i add a 2nd battery will that help with the voltage drop or would a 2nd battery be bad for my 110 amp alternator. thanks for your help. don't mean to bother you
Yeah, I tried that already. They said no to me being on a NASCAR team because, while I could get my motor up to 16,000 rpm, I could only do it in reverse. Not surprisingly, I lost every practice race.
Seems like thats all you can find now adays. I need a 8" pivot mount for my truck and I really want the 95A as I am running a V belt but yet I know the 8" pivot mount existed but no one seems to know anything about them as to what vehicles had them and it seems like everything has been made obsolete and push the 130A version which will slip a V belt at 100A output. Might be able to run a soft start regulator to slowly ramp the alternator up to reduce belt slippage but I am still afraid of belt slippage that I dont want to have with a new engine build but I do need more amperage than my 1G can provide as I have auxiliary circuits ontop of now adding a Holley EFI system.
Thanks for pointing out min and max revs for the alternator to charge correctly. Where I was going to set my idle would have been pretty low in that range. So now I know I should bump it up more to avoid trouble. 700 RPM is looking pretty good for my application as well.
Glad we can help
Thanks for watching Bruce! We waned to help out PA Performance. We chose the 95 amp because we figured that was all we'd need. As for the one wire set up, we plan on hitting that in a future episode. We wanted to show that there is more than one way to do this stuff.
@paky66 No problem! We're here to help...though I did have to look up what a Rekord is!
Varmint, Your update sounds like it went well. We appreciate your kind words and hope that you'll tell your friends about us. Subscribing is free and we cover a whole bunch of different topics!
@paky66 Paky, that is exactly where Ford put it. So all we did was return it to the stock location. I will say this: I've had several of these cars and worked on a ton and never had an issue...and Ford never moved the regulator in the 5 years that they used an alternator set up (early cars were generator run), not saying it was "right" just that no warranty issues were seen and thus it was not moved.
The starter comes next week with it's changes. There were no fuseable links on the '67.
@AutoRestoMod My '69 opel rekord c (production started in sep '66 and ended in '72) had fuse-wires instead of normal wires+fuses. I (wrongfully) assumed that Ford and GM shared the same technology when it came to electrics. Thanks for clearing that out.
@paky66 Paky, Ford original headlights are not well suited for Halogens. Back in the day I used a set of Halogens in a '71 Mach 1 and nearly burned the harness up. We went with an aftermarket headlight harness designed to run halogens. The install was here: Episode 11 Adding Xenon Halogen Headlinghts to a Mustang.
If you run into any more issues get back with us and we'll do what we can to help.
Ok Jeff......67 Mustang. 289 engine. Alternator pivot bolt. HEADACHE!!! So my pivot bolt is seized up. With some heat, a lot of PB blaster, and a sore back, I finally got it out of the engine block without breaking. But it is seized in the alternator. I was going to just take the bracket off, and work on it on my work bench. But then found out that requires removing the fan, and water pump pulley. Which I KNOW will lead to an entire other set of problems. Any suggestions?
We have posted a pair of diagrams for hooking up the 3G (5.0 Fox) style alternator on our web page. Check the about section below the video for a direct link to our main page. Then go to the "Diagrams" box and click on that.
@AutoRestoMod :) Opel Rekord C is a car that has similar body to Chevrolet Opala. The engines had lower displacement and the headlights were a little different. The rest of the components were the same.
I don't remember what you have done regarding headlamp harness, but i hope you have introduced some relays (with additional fuses) into the circuit, feeding the headlamps directly from the battery (through the additional fuses i mentioned before), using the current that passes through the dash switch only to command the relays.
Also, the wires from the headlamps should be 4-6mmp,the original 2.5mmp is designed to a minimum for eco
Why the heck would you do that? To have a smaller voltage drop.
Personally we aren't too familiar with the Isuzu 4JA1 engines. We'd recommend hitting some of the forums dedicated to Isuzu that use that platform and posing the question.
I see where several videos talk about clocking the 3g. Not aure why. Is that necessary?
If the top end and computer has been changed over to Mass Air then go with the Mass Air components.
Wow, you got a Cleveland to 16,000 rpm?! We need to get you on a NASCAR team, you'd be HUGE! =)
@vwdarrin No problem!
why do you need to run the replacement firewall regulator? im running a one wire alt and that entire harness is gone long ago. 79-f250 4x4
Hi guys! I did what you said to do and took my engine up to 16,000 rpm. It really doesn't put out much after, say, 5000 rpm. It was a real chore for the next 11,000 rpm. I was disappointed-perhaps I should get a tune-up.
LMAO!!
I'm confused. If you installed an internally regulated alternator, why are you still using the external regulator? Really enjoy your videos.
+mchristr The regulator allows function of the alternator gauge...well it would if they really functioned...
+AutoRestoMod Thanks for your response. I'm now trying to figure out how to do the upgraded alternator and retain my factory ammeter.
mchristr The factory ammeter will be fine. Honestly doesn't work that well anyway. Jeff wasn't kidding in the episode when he complained about that.
What if you already have a dash tach? Could you please tell the viewers where to get information doing this installation with a ford factory tach dash cluster?
We may in the future.
With a 94-95 Mustang V8 130amp alternator, I won't need a regulator, am I right? I just need to swap the pulleys and rotate the back plate 1/3 of a turn.. yeah?
Those alternators I think are all internally regulated.
Good afternoon 😊
good stuff vinnie thanks for the vid
???? the 3G has a internal voltage regulator so why did you install an external one?
@robbys67rs Ha, ha, ha! We're SURE it can't be the faces...must be the parts.
Just purchased the NPD Concurs 1967 Mustang Alternator Wiring Harness and none of the colors match what you have done here. there is ... White, White/Black, Black/Yellow and Black/Red. I believe the Black/Red is Ground, and the Black/Yellow is from Alternator to the starter solenoid (which is not needed if purchase the extra thick red wire from PA Performance). However, onto the question.... Does the White or White/black go to the Green and which goes to the B-Neg terminal on the alternator.
Thank you in advance.
+Kevin Tuttle Do you have a alternator diagram? We posted on on our page for the 3G. If that isn't helpful, contact Jeff directly at jford@autorestomod.com and send some pics of the harness you have.www.autorestomod.com/diagrams.html
Let me ask, i have a 91 a9l eec running an 86 engine converted to mass air. Should i upgrade as if it were an 86. Or is it as if it was an 87-93 mustang?
I had this PA Performance 3G upgrade installed on my 84 Mustang 5.0. There is a white wire off the upgraded voltage regulator that my mechanic ran to the ignition coil as it needs a 12V keyed on source. I don't think it should be tapped onto the coil. Is there a better spot to run the white wire off the reg?
If that source is not making you comfortable you'll need to get a wiring diagram and find a keyed 12V wire off if the ignition switch.
what if he gets the older four pin solonoid like on the older ford trucks then he will have a s terminal with full power with key on im running my h.e.i off of it in my 73 ford and trying to upgrade my alternater as its still 40 amps
hay guys why not use an 135 amp, also why are you still using a stock type reg. I have a one wire conversion for 3gs
Voltage regulator under the washer bottle... that is a dumb move! It's true that the voltage regulator has a certain degree of water&dust protection, but it is not designed to be working if water is poured on it.
Another thing you did not consider: when you change the alternator you also have to change the wire from the starter to the battery! You should also replace the remainig "fuse wires" with regular wires+stand-alone fuse.
followed this video installing my new alternator. all it does is click when i turn the key. what am i doing wrong
The alternator does nothing for start up. Charge the battery
Lol.. all the Ford Trucks I've owned those Amp meters didn't move neither. The gas gauge sure moved 390 v8. Lohl
www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all. Yep the 390 in our truck gets about 6 mpg.
If 3G alternators have internal voltage regulators, why is the external voltage regulator used?
It's mostly used for other wiring items on the car. The guts that make it a regulator aren't even in there
Laurence, it is an 8,000 rpm tach....LOL
hi im from the philippines i have a isuzu 4ja1 my alternator is 70amp can i upgrade ? thanks
What is the part # on the NPD Harness in the video?
14305-2A
the amp volt meter does not work when using the bypass 4 gauge wire 79-86 Mustangs :(
Well that sucks!
We need Vinnie back
Thanks a lot
can you do this for a newer car a 2012 nissan altima 2.5S i need a high output alternator
Thanks for writing in. We really don't deal with the newer stuff Shawn but we appreciate you asking.
your into cars can you tell me this. i can't find a high output alternator so if i add a 2nd battery will that help with the voltage drop or would a 2nd battery be bad for my 110 amp alternator. thanks for your help. don't mean to bother you
Not bother us at all. Check this out and see if it helps: ua-cam.com/video/8zQ6Az06eqs/v-deo.html
Why not just run one wire alt and save all the extra work
Yeah, I tried that already. They said no to me being on a NASCAR team because, while I could get my motor up to 16,000 rpm, I could only do it in reverse. Not surprisingly, I lost every practice race.
Why not a one wire alternator ?
Well, the one wire looks cool, but past that has no advantages over the three wire we used. We did a one wire later in our episodes.
isent this a interaly regulated set up
Thats a 95 amp 3g small case 7” pivot mount.
Upgraded to 130?
Seems like thats all you can find now adays. I need a 8" pivot mount for my truck and I really want the 95A as I am running a V belt but yet I know the 8" pivot mount existed but no one seems to know anything about them as to what vehicles had them and it seems like everything has been made obsolete and push the 130A version which will slip a V belt at 100A output. Might be able to run a soft start regulator to slowly ramp the alternator up to reduce belt slippage but I am still afraid of belt slippage that I dont want to have with a new engine build but I do need more amperage than my 1G can provide as I have auxiliary circuits ontop of now adding a Holley EFI system.
ooooo HiDef!!!
And 80 miles per hour speedometer? Tell me it's a granny
Car!
Lmao, this show is great