That was a neat trick with the second nut to clear away the burr on the end. Ain't no substitute for experience Gordon! Little tricks like that can save so much time and hassle that's for sure!
this guy gives some good advice !!! Especially on how he gave the knowledge of how to use two nuts before you cut the threads so that you can clean the thread once cut !!! Good man ! thumbs up
You gotta admire the old timer's vernier caliper precision measuring 12:15 , a screwdriver and a thumb, no disrespect intended, these truckers never break down, know their stuff and thats why we owe them a great debt, they keep the economy going rain or shine. Hat off to you mate, from the UK
Its 20 to midnight here in the UK, I'm pleasantly surprised to receive your 'Thank you for watching' message. Thank you for taking the time to send me the message. It was my third vid watching you change brake shoes. All the best. Kind regards from Reading, Berkshire UK
Thanks Gordon I've been driving for 10 years and imma be buying first truck next week and you're videos will be a big money saver!!!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
I use damaged aluminum car rims or old steel rims as safety stands. They don't tip, they don't crush, and they work on sand and earth. Thousands of vehicles in salvage yards are stored on old rims. Some 4x4 blocks come in handy too. I gave away my jack stands long ago.
I would love to see a video on were you take the slack adjusters apart and clean them then put them back together because mine doesn't seem to work properly anymore and they're kind of expensive as always thank you Gordon for another great video
I don't have an opportunity to do that now but if you mix me taking off the clevis on this video with the video I did on cleaning the slack adjuster ua-cam.com/video/re9ls-LmBCo/v-deo.html you should be able to do it yourself.
Thank you kindly, Mr. Gordon Robertson DIY, for your great efforts, and for your time. I think the "Induction Innovation" tool is a great help for unscrewing such hard rusted nuts& bolts.
please, please put in the caging bolt to contain that spring in the chamber. if the chamber is rusted thru or you aren't sure what you are doing --- that spring could take your head off. when the park button is pulled, pop the plug on the end of the chamber. the key slot should be centered in the hole. if not, the spring is broken, the chamber needs to be replaced. when the park button is "in"and you hear air escaping around the chamber, the chamber needs to be replaced. have someone step on the brake pedal- if you hear air escaping, the pancake has a hole rubbed in it and the pancake needs to be replaced. incidentally the boss where the fittings screw in, if they are square be sure the new chamber has the same square boss'- they identify a long stroke chamber. you want the same on both ends of the same axel. if there is air leaking on the qrv- quick release valve- (the small one on the frame) it needs to be replaced.,
This guy is danger mouse. I was hoping he would throw one of the wheels under there to be safe but he put his life in the hands of a inadequate 3 ton trolley jack and a bottle jack on a rounded surface.
First name,you are right. Way back in the early 1980s I was changing the diaphragm on one of those chambers.I had the caging bolt installed properly,but the end of the chamber broke allowing the spring to take off at great speed.Spring traveled about 35 feet hit the door of the shop and put a dent in the door.After that I would not change the diaphragm any more just replace the cylinder.
Nice video, question why did you check how far out cleave was out from face of 30/30 I check from inside just in case that spring was bad . then made a tool that goes into one side of chamber to supply air to compress the other end so can put the Jesus bolt in , and turn were the air lines hook up . Thank you for the part about the fegure 8 part were it mounts
I don't do enough of them to know all of the tricks, you can always measure the rods on the other chambers if you want before cutting, they don't need to be exact anyway, within 1/2 an inch is good, as long as you have about 90* when the brake is applied. Thanks for watching.
Please exercise extreme care handling these brake/spring chambers. When I served in the military, I heard stories from the mechanics where that spring can travel with great speed and violence up to a quarter mile away or more. Imagine what damage one could sustain from it.
Thanks for watching. Yes if you want to donate, there's a PayPal link on the home page on the lower right corner of the home page picture. I don't know if it shows on a phone or not but it shows on a computer.
The hoses will relax to their previous position. If that isn't the case, you can look at the brake chamber on the other side and see where those hoses go to, if you really screwed up and took off both sides and don't know where they go then push in the yellow brake release and see which hoses are letting out air, these go to the rear of the chambers.
I am a first time owner of a semi. It is an 07 Mack. I had the frame extended and a dump body added to haul grains and feed for local farms here where I live in NY. Your videos will be a big help to me. The Mack has parking brakes on only one axle. Is that typical? How complicated would it be to change the other drive axle to have parking brake too?
I haven't done that before but I wouldn't be afraid to do it, you would need to change the valve that sends air to the parking brake to release it, unless the original valve has 2 more ports that are capped off, or maybe you can put a couple of "Ts" in the valve to add 2 more air lines and just replace the "30s" with "30-30s" or whatever type of parking brakes you have on the back.
Yes it is typical when pulling trailers, trailers have 4 parking brakes, the bobtail doesn't need 4 but if you're putting a dump bed on then you definitely need 4 parking brakes on your truck.
They are called "Maxi Brakes"(dual axle parking brakes). Service brake relay is usually a 4-port R6 relay valve and the air lines go in the front ports of the brake chambers. Parking brakes are usually a 4-port R12 relay valve and the lines go in the the back port of a 30/30 brake chamber. Follow the lines coming out of the back port of your brake chambers to the park brake relay valve. If the lines are color coded --- Green = Service brakes Red = Park brakes. It should have pipe plugs in the other two ports of the park brake relay. You'll need two lines and two 30/30 chambers($100-$125 if you find the chambers on sale). Look for the "caging bolts" (t-bolts) needed for installation on the bottom of the new chambers. New chambers don't usually come "caged" for safety reasons during shipping.
Can’t stop thinking of the carnage that can could cause in between his legs!! Highly unlikely but anytime I’m working on or around the cans all I can think of is the people unscrewing the clamps and taking them out!!!
Hello! thanks for writing, I'm sorry to say that I rarely take in even a brake job on a car these days. I'm still driving the truck full time, doing all of the maintenance and repairs on it at home, maintaining a sizeable property and a rental house and just trying to slow down a bit knowing that I can't retire until I'm in my 70s. I only take in smaller jobs once in a while as I can squeeze them in for a friend or a workmate.
I’m an owner operator just want to say thank you very much for your videos saved me several times.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I sincerely thank you for your videos, sir. They have helped my OO journey tremendously.
Thank you sir.
That was a neat trick with the second nut to clear away the burr on the end. Ain't no substitute for experience Gordon! Little tricks like that can save so much time and hassle that's for sure!
Thanks Andrew.
this guy gives some good advice !!! Especially on how he gave the knowledge of how to use two nuts before you cut the threads so that you can clean the thread once cut !!! Good man ! thumbs up
Thanks for watching Carlos.
I enjoy watching ur videos and learning. I have a bus with airbrakes and find ur videos easy to follow, thanks
You sir are a god send, thanks for the videos.
You gotta admire the old timer's vernier caliper precision measuring 12:15 , a screwdriver and a thumb, no disrespect intended, these truckers never break down, know their stuff and thats why we owe them a great debt, they keep the economy going rain or shine. Hat off to you mate, from the UK
Thanks for watching.
Its 20 to midnight here in the UK, I'm pleasantly surprised to receive your 'Thank you for watching' message. Thank you for taking the time to send me the message. It was my third vid watching you change brake shoes. All the best. Kind regards from Reading, Berkshire UK
Thanks Gordon I've been driving for 10 years and imma be buying first truck next week and you're videos will be a big money saver!!!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
Thanks Dennis; I hope some of the videos will come in handy. Also see my playlists, I have many DIY repair videos on several subjects besides trucks.
Another very informative video, thank You.
I've learned more from your videos than what I learned in classes
Thank you Sir, and thanks for subbing.
Thanks for showing your videos Keep it up PLEASE!!!! I am learning a Lot THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for watching.
I use damaged aluminum car rims or old steel rims as safety stands. They don't tip, they don't crush, and they work on sand and earth. Thousands of vehicles in salvage yards are stored on old rims. Some 4x4 blocks come in handy too. I gave away my jack stands long ago.
Thank you for going threw the trouble to show us
I love spring time when you hear the bird singing away in the trees!
GODAMMIT!!...PAY ATTENTION!!!
Thanks for all your hard work!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the sacrifice!! Be blessed!!
Thank you Sir.
thumbs up for the camera setup!
Thank you Sir.
Thank you for the help and your videos
Excellent video, nice description. Thk u.
Good stuff brother! Keep em coming! I just subscribed
Thank you Sir.
thanks, taking my air brakes endorsement on the weekend. Need as much info as I can get.
good luck!
You are so helpful!!
Thanks a lot Gordon, I’m new on this business, and I’m learning a lot from you...🤙🏾
Thanks for watching.
great video!! u make it look so easy!
Thank you Sir.
Great video. Finally a man with the knowledge to teach us about semi's; your apprentice greatly appreciates.
Thank you Sir.
I would love to see a video on were you take the slack adjusters apart and clean them then put them back together because mine doesn't seem to work properly anymore and they're kind of expensive as always thank you Gordon for another great video
$140 is cheap compared to brakes not working
jbohler hahaha I guess so
I don't have an opportunity to do that now but if you mix me taking off the clevis on this video with the video I did on cleaning the slack adjuster ua-cam.com/video/re9ls-LmBCo/v-deo.html you should be able to do it yourself.
? Heavy Truck ! PLEASE break
down and buy "slacks". There
BREAKS, einstein.
Sincerely, NAWALT.
That was excellent information, thank you very much
thank you for your video, very helpful, very good explain.
real world application always is different than a perfect shop environment
Yes Sir.
Try being a field tech. It's never perfect, but there's way to and not to do things.
Yup did my first brake chamber as a mobile tech. Really have to think on your feet. Doing one tomorrow so getting a refresher
There is no such thing as a perfect shop environment.
Good work my brother God bles you
Thanks for watching.
awesome video man!
thank you!
thank you sir. and God bless you always.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you kindly, Mr. Gordon Robertson DIY, for your great efforts, and for your time. I think the "Induction Innovation" tool is a great help for unscrewing such hard rusted nuts& bolts.
I just bought one but have not had a chance to try it out. Thanks for watching.
quite the camera setup, awesome video as always
Thank you Sir, I haven't seen you in a while.
no problem! been around just watching lately though
Great video bro.
Appreciate the video, Gordon.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the helpful information.
Thumbs up for the "foot by square eye" measurement device!
Thanks for watching.
Very good detailed instructions.
Just me doing it my way, I did other ones a little different. Thanks.
U r dam amazing...
I love every video u post
Thanks.
Thanks this is all great information.
Thank you Sir.
Great video
How do you go about getting the fitting back into the hose if the fittings came out
Awesome vídeo, I like this 😃
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the vid, I have a leaky brake chamber I have to replace soon.
If the housing is not rusted, you can change only the pancake faster. Thanks for watching.
Gordon Robertson, awesome thanks for the info.
It is not the same as lifting that axle with the hydraulic jack to lift it with the air bags. the same air lines are used or are separate lines??
Hi Gordon looks like you need to rotate top can so the airlines are like they were before. great video
You're right, I could have done that but since it fit, I was lazy after fighting with the clevis.
@@57bagre unfortunately for me thats the only part i came onto utube to learn,the rest i can do just not sure about rotating can so hose slots line up
@@michaelo2522 just put a caging bolt in and loosen the clamp and rotate the housing to where you want it
@@57bagre ok thanks I'm halfway done
Thanks for the video and the insight
Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU FOR U JOB AND SUPER VIDEO
Thank you.
Thankyou I learned more hear than anywhere
please, please put in the caging bolt to contain that spring in the chamber. if the chamber is rusted thru or you aren't sure what you are doing --- that spring could take your head off. when the park button is pulled, pop the plug on the end of the chamber. the key slot should be centered in the hole. if not, the spring is broken, the chamber needs to be replaced. when the park button is "in"and you hear air escaping around the chamber, the chamber needs to be replaced. have someone step on the brake pedal- if you hear air escaping, the pancake has a hole rubbed in it and the pancake needs to be replaced. incidentally the boss where the fittings screw in, if they are square be sure the new chamber has the same square boss'- they identify a long stroke chamber. you want the same on both ends of the same axel. if there is air leaking on the qrv- quick release valve- (the small one on the frame) it needs to be replaced.,
This guy is danger mouse. I was hoping he would throw one of the wheels under there to be safe but he put his life in the hands of a inadequate 3 ton trolley jack and a bottle jack on a rounded surface.
First name,you are right. Way back in the early 1980s I was changing the diaphragm on one of those chambers.I had the caging bolt installed properly,but the end of the chamber broke allowing the spring to take off at great speed.Spring traveled about 35 feet hit the door of the shop and put a dent in the door.After that I would not change the diaphragm any more just replace the cylinder.
First Name, johnm, and charles. Put a video up on how you all do it.
Newer parking brake cylinders usually sealed units,must be replaced if they leak.I retired in 2005,do not work on much of anything anymore.
thanks
You can use a cage bolt to run the rod in and won't have to worry about air pressure.
Thanks was looking for that info
Nice video, question why did you check how far out cleave was out from face of 30/30 I check from inside just in case that spring was bad . then made a tool that goes into one side of chamber to supply air to compress the other end so can put the Jesus bolt in , and turn were the air lines hook up .
Thank you for the part about the fegure 8 part were it mounts
I don't do enough of them to know all of the tricks, you can always measure the rods on the other chambers if you want before cutting, they don't need to be exact anyway, within 1/2 an inch is good, as long as you have about 90* when the brake is applied. Thanks for watching.
Thanks alot. You saved this commercial beekeeper.
thanks for very informative vids,happy 4 july.
Thank you.
This video really helped me understand how these work. I was wondering if when replacing one break chamber, do you need to replace both sides?
No
I always buy the brake chamber with the welded clevis that way I dont have to cut the shaft, makes the job a lot faster
Good job 👍🏼
Thank you Sir.
Awesome video gordon
Thanks.
Please exercise extreme care handling these brake/spring chambers. When I served in the military, I heard stories from the mechanics where that spring can travel with great speed and violence up to a quarter mile away or more. Imagine what damage one could sustain from it.
Theres a new cageing bolt supplied with every new brake chamber. The spring can be compressed with the bolt.
The spring is very violent for sure.
Old school way love it.
Thanks.
What a wealth of knowledge. Can we donate?
Thanks for watching. Yes if you want to donate, there's a PayPal link on the home page on the lower right corner of the home page picture. I don't know if it shows on a phone or not but it shows on a computer.
2:19 turned off camera to swear a whole bunch then turned back on to continued recording.
As far as I know...Gordon does not curse
That needs to happen sometimes to relieve some tension lol. He a good man though!
Release your brakes and pull the pins and it'll be a lot easier to unbolt.
Yes I agree .
Good video would like to see a video of universal joint replacement
Last time I did a U-joint was before I started doing videos, I hope I don't need to do one on mine anytime soon. I'll sure do one when I can. Thanks.
Yeah I know what ya mean
It's tight the whole way because you still have pressure on the s cam, so every time you turn the nut the chamber arm extends with it.
Can u plz explain how to take off the air pressure hose by releasing the break or by pulling it
Pull the brake valves out.
Good video man.
Thanks for watching.
Great video Just the effort you put on Yhe last chamber its gone too Or need to go hole up Any way great video
very informative thank you
Thank you sir.
Well done
Air up the spring side or cage it or back off the slack until it floats. Then pull your pins. Been doing these for 42 years
When replacing the 30/30 chambers, do you have the brakes released or set?
Good wark 👍👍
Carl!!!...from Slingblade!!!
Hi, how do you know which hose is for the hold off chamber and which hose is for the service brake chamber?
The hoses will relax to their previous position. If that isn't the case, you can look at the brake chamber on the other side and see where those hoses go to, if you really screwed up and took off both sides and don't know where they go then push in the yellow brake release and see which hoses are letting out air, these go to the rear of the chambers.
If you use anti-seize on pins and threaded fasteners you won't have to fight them next time.
Thanks Mr.
Thanks for watching.
Did I see the cage bolt in on the new brake can during installation? I didn't notice when you put that in.
Do you need to cage the new one?
Question how do you connect the video cam with that screen?
The camera has a mini "hdmi" out jack. Just get a camera with that output on it and plug it into a flat screen tv or monitor.
you did a great job next time just hold that slack with vice grip and put caging bolt and removed air lines much fast 20 mins job
Thanks.
Uses a blue wrench, it fits all !
I have a question for you, through the whole process, are the brakes applied or released?
Released and backed off just like in the video.
I am a first time owner of a semi. It is an 07 Mack. I had the frame extended and a dump body added to haul grains and feed for local farms here where I live in NY. Your videos will be a big help to me. The Mack has parking brakes on only one axle. Is that typical? How complicated would it be to change the other drive axle to have parking brake too?
I haven't done that before but I wouldn't be afraid to do it, you would need to change the valve that sends air to the parking brake to release it, unless the original valve has 2 more ports that are capped off, or maybe you can put a couple of "Ts" in the valve to add 2 more air lines and just replace the "30s" with "30-30s" or whatever type of parking brakes you have on the back.
Yes it is typical when pulling trailers, trailers have 4 parking brakes, the bobtail doesn't need 4 but if you're putting a dump bed on then you definitely need 4 parking brakes on your truck.
They are called "Maxi Brakes"(dual axle parking brakes). Service brake relay is usually a 4-port R6 relay valve and the air lines go in the front ports of the brake chambers. Parking brakes are usually a 4-port R12 relay valve and the lines go in the the back port of a 30/30 brake chamber. Follow the lines coming out of the back port of your brake chambers to the park brake relay valve. If the lines are color coded --- Green = Service brakes Red = Park brakes. It should have pipe plugs in the other two ports of the park brake relay. You'll need two lines and two 30/30 chambers($100-$125 if you find the chambers on sale). Look for the "caging bolts" (t-bolts) needed for installation on the bottom of the new chambers. New chambers don't usually come "caged" for safety reasons during shipping.
could of used a C-clamp to get that rusted pin out that's usually what I would do. good video
Thanks.
That a Boy My Man Gordon
good video.,
Thank you Sir.
Good Job ....
Thanks for watching.
Buen trabajo abuelo 👴 50 year experiencia
Gracias nieto.
Thank you Awesome.
Thanks so much!!!!!
Can’t stop thinking of the carnage that can could cause in between his legs!! Highly unlikely but anytime I’m working on or around the cans all I can think of is the people unscrewing the clamps and taking them out!!!
11:05 make that pin loose. Could you use a socket and clamp to release that pin when was installed on truck?
Are you not caging the chamber?
I put shop air to the spring brake side if the spring is broken and unable to cage.
Only problem I see is putting a jack on rear end housing. They will break.
Awesome
You spent one hour to reuse a four dollar clevis? I can do this job in one hour. but, I am a surgeon with a cutting torch.
THANK YOU!!! I did t wanna be the only dick to point that out.
Jackstands, timbers or put a wheel back on, THEN you can get under there.
Gordon do you still work on your fld? I want to do an in frame rebuilt, can I pay you to do that? I have the same exact truck as your a fld120 97 dd60
Hello! thanks for writing, I'm sorry to say that I rarely take in even a brake job on a car these days. I'm still driving the truck full time, doing all of the maintenance and repairs on it at home, maintaining a sizeable property and a rental house and just trying to slow down a bit knowing that I can't retire until I'm in my 70s.
I only take in smaller jobs once in a while as I can squeeze them in for a friend or a workmate.
I always mount the brake chamber then cut it because the push rod you can cut it too short