Just a tip alot of folks recommend filling the new filter with oil before replacemnt. Creates less dead space that the engine needs to fill when turned on the first time
I’ve heard that and it makes sense. I’ve also heard that it’s not necessary and is a good way to make a mess. Mostly I’ve just been doing it this way for so long that it hard to change old habits at this point. 😂
Hi Rob, my Triumph 1050 manual, states that you should fill the oil filter, with new oil. Also, smear the O ring with clean oil, prior to fitting the new filter
By all means follow the manual. The Trident manual does not specifically mention filling the filter, but it does mention putting oil on the o-ring, which is why I put it on step 4, and you see me do it at about 2:50. The filter I took off was the original one from the factory. Maybe they are forgetting to oil the o-ring there and that is why it sticks. I've heard that it happens on other Triumph models when owners do the first oil change.
Do not try to fill your oil filter. Most motorcycle and many car engines have the filter mounted from the side, so it's not practical to do so. If it is important they wouldn't design engines this way. Even if the oil filter mounts vertically, you would be pouring some unfiltered oil into the engine and although it's new oil it still contains some debris. My personal experience in over 50 years of changing oil in cars and motorcycles I've never had issues. What I believe is important is to not over fill with engine oil.
The sticking filter seal seems to be a thing with Triumphs. Worse on the Bonneville as the filter sits up inside the sump housing. Resetting the service light can be done by purchasing an OBD 2 reader (Amazon $20) and using a free download of Tune ECU or similar program. Tune ECU also let's you prime the ABS when doing a brake fluid flush/ exchange.
You’re very welcome. In the future, I’m going to stick with the Triumph oil filters or their OEM equivalent. I can’t trust the K&N 100%, so why risk it?
@@jrobrides1340 : yeah it's always better to stick to company recommended spare parts. Even I have 3 different oil filter options here in India, K&N, BMC and Crank 1. Only issue here is Triumph service centre at my location don't sell spare parts to customers since they don't really have competition nearby. Next nearest Triumph dealer is 150miles+ away from here. Hence, looks like I'll have to depend on aftermarket spares rather than spending huge at Triumph
recently also changed the oil on my own. By the way, I drove with a strong magnet on the drain plug, and when I removed it, the plug was very clean, without any magnetized signs of wear.
I'll complain to my grave why motorcycles can't have their sight-glass or dipstick calibrated to read the oil level while the bike is on the side stand. This check oil while the bike is level stuff is nonsense and makes it tricky for guys like me with no friends to hold the bike :-p Another note for all: be sure to check the owner's manual for your machine - oil checked cold can vary quite a bit from oil checked hot. I am not sure if there is an industry standard on this one, but you'd be amazed how much hot oil expands and gives you a whole different reading.
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately I have traded the Trident on a Scrambler 1200. But I did find this video on replacing the air filter. Ride safe. ua-cam.com/video/8_pQRimDyTo/v-deo.html
PSA: Do not torque that oil filter down using the hex. It weakens the joint between the hex and the metal body, and will crack one day. Many others and I have had it happen to us which results in a dangerous oil spill in front of your rear tire. That hex is meant to easily taking OFF the oil filter.
So you personally have had a K&N filter fail at the hex nut??? I had heard similar horror stories about K&N oil filters before. Some even claimed that the nut being bonded to the body is enough to make the body weak enough to cause a failure. The failure could still happened when the filter was spun on and tightened by hand. It was enough to make me stay away from the brand for years until I personally met several people who had been using them for many thousands of miles without a problem. I'm still a bit skeptical that only 7 ft-lbs of torque could cause any problems. That being said, anyone nervous at all about the hex nut on the filter should just go ahead and buy the Triumph or any other brand they trust. It may be more money or less convenience, but it's worth it for the peace of mind. If it's something at happened to you though, that story alone is enough to make me go back to a Triumph filter.
@@jrobrides1340 It happened to me personally on my air cooled bonneville approx 2017-2018. I was riding to Prince Edward County from Toronto, passed Port Hope and arrived in a quainy tiny town. Did a U turn at in the town square and stopped. Just prior to stopping a MASSIVE amount of oil leaked out of the K&N filter between the nut and the body. i.e. it covered half the road. I think you're going a little too far to say avoid that oil filter if you fear it breaking. The issue can occur when you use the nut to tighten it on. Dont do that. Simply hand tighten it. On the bonnie, the rule of thumb was 1.5 turns. Hope this helps.
To anyone who is trying this for the first time on their own 660 and are confused by the comments stating not to top off the oil: He's right, I just finished doing it not 30 seconds ago and 3 qts is just shy of enough. Prior to this I had my first service done at the dealer and the amount of oil that was in there was also a bit more than 3 qts (noticed after refilling the containers with used oil). So the dealership ALSO used just a bit over 3 qts.
Good point! In my experience the gasket usually comes off in one piece. You just have to give it a nudge. But if it doesn't come off cleanly, a non-marring plastic scraper is a good idea to clean up bits that try to stick.
Whats the torque spec for the drain plug and filter? Update: Sorry, I just watched it again and I tend not to read things because I’m dyslexic but you included it in the text at the bottom. Is the filter the same torque spec as the drain plug?
No worries. They are different. Filter is to 89 lb/in or 10 Nm. But hand tight should be fine if you don't like the idea of using a wrench on the filter. Drain plug is 18 lb/ft or 25 Nm.
I can but it might be awhile before mine is due for a change. I’m still trying to find out where it is! I suspect that it might be underneath the tank like the Street Triple.
Open the seat. Air filter chamber is just below the fuel tank, you can see it. You may have to remove one of the covers of fuel tank to open the air filter chamber.
I recently found a video of a couple of guys changing the air filter. They had to remove the tank cover and the fuel tank to open the air box and replace the filter. It didn’t look difficult just tedious.
Thanks. I got this one from Revzilla: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/trackside-rear-paddock-stand?sku_id=1127303 I'm sure there are others that are better, but it gets the job done.
That didn’t happen to me, but I’d be very worried if it did. The bike I had before the Trident was a Harley Softail, which felt slammed to the ground by comparison. I’m now on a Scrambler, which feels much higher up than the Trident.
I’m going to try changing the oil end of season with the bike on the side stand. As far as I can tell, on the street triple you were able to drain the oil on the side stand and i *think* check the oil level when the bike it upright … but I have heard others say they got the same reading on the side stand. I figure with so many similarities between the ST and the Tri, one may be able to knock it out on the side stand.
That shouldn't be a problem. The only reason I stood the bike upright was because I happened to have a paddock stand (it is nice when doing a chain service) and the manual recommended doing it upright. You could always check the level before draining the oil and then just refilling to that level all while on the side stand.
So… you need to check the oil when the bike is upright and both wheels are on the ground. Also the dip stick needs to be wiped, be twisted back in all the way, and then twisted out. Any other way and you may overfill. Don’t ask me how I know 😆
To anybody watching this for a how to, do NOT tighten your filter on with a wrench. That’s just stupid and asking for trouble when trying to get it back off. You only put them on as tight as you can turn by hand and that’s it. There’s a reason why there’s a big rubber gasket on them. The giant nut welded on the end is for removing it. They will tighten down even more going through the natural heat cycles. That’s why when you put them on by hand you can almost never get them back off by hand. Everything else is good advice though.
@@jrobrides1340 because something like a torque spec for an oil filter is for somebody that has no mechanical ability and needs to be walked through something ultra basic with their hand held. Ask ANY real mechanic and they’ll laugh at you if you talk about torque specs for an oil filter. They’ll all then tell you hand tight is right.
@@cfltitan So you're saying there is huge difference between hand tight and 10 Nm? I would be more concerned about the inconsistency. Hand tight for my delicate lady-like hands might be very different from hand tight for let's say your giant gorilla mitts. I'm also curious as to how tight Triumph put the filter on at the factory to get the gasket to stick like that? Maybe that was actually to spec, and therefore that validates your point. On the other hand they have been making motorcycles for awhile, so you would think they would at least get a few details right in their owner's manual.
@@jrobrides1340 They end up sticking like that when you don't lube or oil seal-gasket, at factory speed is more important so they just spin it on and if you can over tighten it to the point that seal fails then you are more then likely a pro rock climber and I'm not shaking hands with you😲 and yes 10 NM is pretty much hand tight do what ever makes you more comfortable most Mechanic's won't say anything but will shake their head after you leave. just being honest just got mine 2 weeks ago brand new and was wondering about Service light so thanks for link to the other Video and yes I still haven't read the manual it will still be wrapped in plastic when I sell it😲😳
Does the filter need to be changed for the 500 mile break in service? Sadly I cannot entertain the dealer with another $350 right now, so ill be changing that break-in oil out myself and im just wondering.
Yes I would definitely change the filter. Who knows what crud, shavings, etc it’s been collecting during break in. I’m going to put a Triumph one on during my next change. Too many horror stories about the K&N.
@@jrobrides1340 Ugh.... I had no other option other than K&N from my local Adv Auto & Autozone! Anyways, I went mobil-1 4T on the oil, immediately noticed that "ice cubes in a blender" sound to be ALOT lower in volume and shifting improved significantly. All that Triumph/Castrol hype is str8 BS! Go Mobil-1
I had the dealer do the rest of the service and clear the light. I saved about half of the cost of the first service by just doing the oil and filter. Haven't found a confirmed report of anyone being able to clear the wrench by themselves yet.
@@jameyhinds Unfortunately, I think you're right. I'm OK with bringing it back to the dealer for the 10k services. Motorcycle tecs have bills to pay too, right? But I don't know about taking it in every 12 months.... I guess I have a year to think about it or for someone to come up with a solution.
Either of those would be fine as long as they meet the required specifications. I usually just go with what the manufacturer recommends, especially during the warranty period. Both Valvoline and Amsoil make perfectly good products. Use what you feel is best.
@@jrobrides1340 it would have been better if you used valvoline or locally sourced oil. I heard once from a gold wing owner that valvoline 4t gave him a better, smoothe engine operations and gear shifts. Just saying. Castrol....
Nice video and the comments are a hoot! So for my two cents……You are clearly inexperienced in motor cycle maintenance as you are using the wrong color gloves! LOL Keep up the great content
Lol. Yeah I don’t know if Triumph has some super robot or a genetically enhanced gorilla that installs the oil filters at the factory, but it’s on TIGHT. I think that also has something to do with the filter gasket that sticks to the pan.
@@drrrd9536 I still haven’t seen anyone with the software that will work for the Trident. I’ve only heard that Triumph changed something in the ecu, and current software doesn’t work.
I thought tridents have an annoying change oil message that had to be disabled by a dealer service center. Did they finally fix that problem? It made me write off getting one.
Nope. The message still pops up and it's still annoying. I heard rumors about being able to clear the message with software, but at that point, I'd rather just take it to the dealer. Doing the oil and filter yourself can at least save you some money when you do have to bring it in. To be fair it's not just the Tridents . Most if not all new Triumphs are the same way.
It’s supposed to be every 12 months or 10000 miles, whichever comes first. I don’t ride anywhere near that far in a year, so sometimes I let it go a few more months.
Do you have to go to a dealer and have them reset the maintenance light that comes on? (I assume one comes on?) Just got a 660 myself and seeing if I’ll run into software issues
Just dealers for the most part. Some are good about posting parts diagrams, so you can look up the exact part number and order from them online. There’s a few other places like puretriumph.com.
@@jrobrides1340 I heard that parts for Triumph are a nightmare to get and people waiting for 3 months and more when they need something to be replaced and they cannot ride the bike for many moths waiting for dealer to get those parts which is ridiculous and keeps me away from Triumph bikes.
Does servicing the bike invalidate your warranty in the US? I’m sure it does in the UK (we get 2 year unlimited mileage warranty - so I will be getting Dealer to service for now).
No, warranty is still good as long I can prove that the service was done with properly spec'd items. I think this video covers that. I had the dealer do the rest of the first service and they also documented that the oil change was done.
@@timotherollet5370 no problem. Yeah, the service manager said I saved about 50% by doing it myself. Of course you still have to buy the oil and filter, so it’s not quite that much. But still helps, right?
It is possible to buy the Diagnostic Checker and reset the service light. (DealerTool). Others are available, but this one also allows reset of faults on engine & ABS. dealertool.co.uk or ua-cam.com/video/qT_rra7A0yU/v-deo.html
I had the dealer do the rest of the first service and they reset the light. The service manager said that by doing the oil change myself, I cut the bill in half. I did come across a video of a guy doing an oil change on a Street Triple where he used a tool he got from Amazon for like $99. It connected to the bike by the ODB port and to his phone by Bluetooth. It was this one here: www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mx%2B+obd2&qid=1619533902&s=automotive&sr=1-4 I might try it for the the next service.
@yolo I’d have to check - apologies if that is the case. I needed the tool to reset ABS fault - and it was an advanced feature for diagnostic devices and worked well.
Have you noticed any need to ad oil ,??, O have a bud with a 660 Tiger who is having oil consumption problems with this engine. He’s needed to ad a bit over a qrt every 1000-2000 miles 🤦🏻♂️
You know that nice hot engine? The exhaust is also really hot too. Still got the scar from the burn from doing my wife's bike at Easter..... Dumbass eh?
K&N worst filter, way too expensive, known faults in tack welds that are either burn throughs or let go while tightening. They are merely a kitch gimmick.
I highly discourage you following this persons advise to loosely hand tighten things and *come back to them later*. This is a terrible idea and allows for mistakes to be made or forgetting to tighten (happens all the time and see it at track days as well). Make sure you tighten the drain plug to spec and do NOT over tighten the oil filter! No canister oil filter should be tightened past hand tight as much as you can spin it with your hands as hard as you can. I've changed oil filters on countless cars and motorcycles and never had one leak occur.
That was just until I could get the drain pan out of the way. Cleaning a wrench after you've dropped it in the drain pan isn't much fun, but you do what works for you.
Just what I needed! A concise, clear "how to" video. And covering some potential problem areas. Very nicely done. Thanks for posting!
Thank you. I'm glad it helped.
Wet fill oil capacity including filter is 2.8 liters
3 quarts is equal to (0.946 liters x 3) = 2.838 liters
@@NVRRVN thank you
Just a tip alot of folks recommend filling the new filter with oil before replacemnt. Creates less dead space that the engine needs to fill when turned on the first time
I’ve heard that and it makes sense. I’ve also heard that it’s not necessary and is a good way to make a mess. Mostly I’ve just been doing it this way for so long that it hard to change old habits at this point. 😂
Hi Rob, my Triumph 1050 manual, states that you should fill the oil filter, with new oil.
Also, smear the O ring with clean oil, prior to fitting the new filter
@@SBKPete Never forget the o-ring my boys
By all means follow the manual. The Trident manual does not specifically mention filling the filter, but it does mention putting oil on the o-ring, which is why I put it on step 4, and you see me do it at about 2:50. The filter I took off was the original one from the factory. Maybe they are forgetting to oil the o-ring there and that is why it sticks. I've heard that it happens on other Triumph models when owners do the first oil change.
Do not try to fill your oil filter. Most motorcycle and many car engines have the filter mounted from the side, so it's not practical to do so. If it is important they wouldn't design engines this way. Even if the oil filter mounts vertically, you would be pouring some unfiltered oil into the engine and although it's new oil it still contains some debris. My personal experience in over 50 years of changing oil in cars and motorcycles I've never had issues.
What I believe is important is to not over fill with engine oil.
The sticking filter seal seems to be a thing with Triumphs. Worse on the Bonneville as the filter sits up inside the sump housing. Resetting the service light can be done by purchasing an OBD 2 reader (Amazon $20) and using a free download of Tune ECU or similar program. Tune ECU also let's you prime the ABS when doing a brake fluid flush/ exchange.
Good info. Thanks.
I'm planning to change engine oil of my Tiger 660. Everything is same as in the video. Thanks for sharing video.
You’re very welcome. In the future, I’m going to stick with the Triumph oil filters or their OEM equivalent. I can’t trust the K&N 100%, so why risk it?
@@jrobrides1340 : yeah it's always better to stick to company recommended spare parts.
Even I have 3 different oil filter options here in India, K&N, BMC and Crank 1. Only issue here is Triumph service centre at my location don't sell spare parts to customers since they don't really have competition nearby. Next nearest Triumph dealer is 150miles+ away from here. Hence, looks like I'll have to depend on aftermarket spares rather than spending huge at Triumph
recently also changed the oil on my own. By the way, I drove with a strong magnet on the drain plug, and when I removed it, the plug was very clean, without any magnetized signs of wear.
Nice. I didn't use a magnet, but there wasn't anything strange in the pan at least.
I'll complain to my grave why motorcycles can't have their sight-glass or dipstick calibrated to read the oil level while the bike is on the side stand. This check oil while the bike is level stuff is nonsense and makes it tricky for guys like me with no friends to hold the bike :-p Another note for all: be sure to check the owner's manual for your machine - oil checked cold can vary quite a bit from oil checked hot. I am not sure if there is an industry standard on this one, but you'd be amazed how much hot oil expands and gives you a whole different reading.
100% agree.
Oil the o ring on the new filter before fitting. Stops it grabbing as you tighten….
I did. I'm just not sure they did it at the factory.
You will find if you use the filter pliers the correct way(other way around)they will grip better but great video keep them comming
Haha. Thanks. I was probably paying more attention to the filter and the header. Wasn’t thinking about the pliers.
Can you add more maintaince videos on Trident like air filter change, flushing brake fluids, coolant change .....etc?
Thanks for watching. Unfortunately I have traded the Trident on a Scrambler 1200. But I did find this video on replacing the air filter. Ride safe. ua-cam.com/video/8_pQRimDyTo/v-deo.html
They also did a brake video as well. ua-cam.com/video/TCL_Ownlsdc/v-deo.html
PSA: Do not torque that oil filter down using the hex. It weakens the joint between the hex and the metal body, and will crack one day. Many others and I have had it happen to us which results in a dangerous oil spill in front of your rear tire. That hex is meant to easily taking OFF the oil filter.
So you personally have had a K&N filter fail at the hex nut??? I had heard similar horror stories about K&N oil filters before. Some even claimed that the nut being bonded to the body is enough to make the body weak enough to cause a failure. The failure could still happened when the filter was spun on and tightened by hand. It was enough to make me stay away from the brand for years until I personally met several people who had been using them for many thousands of miles without a problem. I'm still a bit skeptical that only 7 ft-lbs of torque could cause any problems. That being said, anyone nervous at all about the hex nut on the filter should just go ahead and buy the Triumph or any other brand they trust. It may be more money or less convenience, but it's worth it for the peace of mind. If it's something at happened to you though, that story alone is enough to make me go back to a Triumph filter.
@@jrobrides1340 It happened to me personally on my air cooled bonneville approx 2017-2018. I was riding to Prince Edward County from Toronto, passed Port Hope and arrived in a quainy tiny town. Did a U turn at in the town square and stopped. Just prior to stopping a MASSIVE amount of oil leaked out of the K&N filter between the nut and the body. i.e. it covered half the road.
I think you're going a little too far to say avoid that oil filter if you fear it breaking.
The issue can occur when you use the nut to tighten it on. Dont do that. Simply hand tighten it. On the bonnie, the rule of thumb was 1.5 turns.
Hope this helps.
@@akiln Good information. Thanks for sharing.
To anyone who is trying this for the first time on their own 660 and are confused by the comments stating not to top off the oil:
He's right, I just finished doing it not 30 seconds ago and 3 qts is just shy of enough. Prior to this I had my first service done at the dealer and the amount of oil that was in there was also a bit more than 3 qts (noticed after refilling the containers with used oil). So the dealership ALSO used just a bit over 3 qts.
if you have remaining gasket, do not use a screwdriver on the sealing surfaces. Plastic scrapers only.
Good point! In my experience the gasket usually comes off in one piece. You just have to give it a nudge. But if it doesn't come off cleanly, a non-marring plastic scraper is a good idea to clean up bits that try to stick.
Whats the torque spec for the drain plug and filter?
Update: Sorry, I just watched it again and I tend not to read things because I’m dyslexic but you included it in the text at the bottom. Is the filter the same torque spec as the drain plug?
No worries. They are different. Filter is to 89 lb/in or 10 Nm. But hand tight should be fine if you don't like the idea of using a wrench on the filter. Drain plug is 18 lb/ft or 25 Nm.
Can you please do a video on changing the air filter? Haven’t found one yet.
I can but it might be awhile before mine is due for a change. I’m still trying to find out where it is! I suspect that it might be underneath the tank like the Street Triple.
I’m looking for the same thing. I suspect it is under the tank.
Open the seat. Air filter chamber is just below the fuel tank, you can see it. You may have to remove one of the covers of fuel tank to open the air filter chamber.
I recently found a video of a couple of guys changing the air filter. They had to remove the tank cover and the fuel tank to open the air box and replace the filter. It didn’t look difficult just tedious.
Hey Jrob, Awesome video. What paddock stand do you use? I bought the Harbor freight one and it was too narrow.
Thanks. I got this one from Revzilla: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/trackside-rear-paddock-stand?sku_id=1127303 I'm sure there are others that are better, but it gets the job done.
I feel the sump is dangerously close to any road bumps. Mine hits the ground very easily and worries me every time.
That didn’t happen to me, but I’d be very worried if it did. The bike I had before the Trident was a Harley Softail, which felt slammed to the ground by comparison. I’m now on a Scrambler, which feels much higher up than the Trident.
I’m going to try changing the oil end of season with the bike on the side stand. As far as I can tell, on the street triple you were able to drain the oil on the side stand and i *think* check the oil level when the bike it upright … but I have heard others say they got the same reading on the side stand.
I figure with so many similarities between the ST and the Tri, one may be able to knock it out on the side stand.
That shouldn't be a problem. The only reason I stood the bike upright was because I happened to have a paddock stand (it is nice when doing a chain service) and the manual recommended doing it upright. You could always check the level before draining the oil and then just refilling to that level all while on the side stand.
So… you need to check the oil when the bike is upright and both wheels are on the ground. Also the dip stick needs to be wiped, be twisted back in all the way, and then twisted out. Any other way and you may overfill. Don’t ask me how I know 😆
@@akiln Did you have it on a paddock stand? If that doesn't work to check oil levels, maybe a wheel chock would be better.
@@jrobrides1340 Bike was upright, but I mistakenly measured the oil level without twisting in the dip stick.
A mechanic I know always puts a little oil into the new filter, just to make sure the motor never ever runs "dry".
Sounds good.
45 years a mechanic, and I've done it every time
To anybody watching this for a how to, do NOT tighten your filter on with a wrench. That’s just stupid and asking for trouble when trying to get it back off. You only put them on as tight as you can turn by hand and that’s it. There’s a reason why there’s a big rubber gasket on them. The giant nut welded on the end is for removing it. They will tighten down even more going through the natural heat cycles. That’s why when you put them on by hand you can almost never get them back off by hand. Everything else is good advice though.
Then why have a torque spec for the filter?
@@jrobrides1340 because something like a torque spec for an oil filter is for somebody that has no mechanical ability and needs to be walked through something ultra basic with their hand held. Ask ANY real mechanic and they’ll laugh at you if you talk about torque specs for an oil filter. They’ll all then tell you hand tight is right.
A torque spec for an oil filter is the equivalent of a warning label on a jar of peanuts saying “contains peanuts”. It’s for the mentally feeble.
@@cfltitan So you're saying there is huge difference between hand tight and 10 Nm? I would be more concerned about the inconsistency. Hand tight for my delicate lady-like hands might be very different from hand tight for let's say your giant gorilla mitts. I'm also curious as to how tight Triumph put the filter on at the factory to get the gasket to stick like that? Maybe that was actually to spec, and therefore that validates your point. On the other hand they have been making motorcycles for awhile, so you would think they would at least get a few details right in their owner's manual.
@@jrobrides1340 They end up sticking like that when you don't lube or oil seal-gasket, at factory speed is more important so they just spin it on and if you can over tighten it to the point that seal fails then you are more then likely a pro rock climber and I'm not shaking hands with you😲 and yes 10 NM is pretty much hand tight do what ever makes you more comfortable most Mechanic's won't say anything but will shake their head after you leave. just being honest just got mine 2 weeks ago brand new and was wondering about Service light so thanks for link to the other Video and yes I still haven't read the manual it will still be wrapped in plastic when I sell it😲😳
Direction in manual say check level bike upright on a flat surface, not on a paddock stand as it gives a false level reading...
By how much do you recon?
Also the manual only says upright and not on the side stand when checking oil. It does not specifically mention paddock stands.
Can you add all the details in description section for example tools used. Thanks
Done.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
You're very welcome!
Great vid! Thanks for sharing. :)
Thanks for watching!
Hey guys. I was thinking of using Motul 7100 instead of Castrol. Any experience with this oil?
Does the filter need to be changed for the 500 mile break in service? Sadly I cannot entertain the dealer with another $350 right now, so ill be changing that break-in oil out myself and im just wondering.
Yes I would definitely change the filter. Who knows what crud, shavings, etc it’s been collecting during break in. I’m going to put a Triumph one on during my next change. Too many horror stories about the K&N.
@@jrobrides1340 Damn, thank you for the heads up!
@@jrobrides1340 Ugh.... I had no other option other than K&N from my local Adv Auto & Autozone! Anyways, I went mobil-1 4T on the oil, immediately noticed that "ice cubes in a blender" sound to be ALOT lower in volume and shifting improved significantly. All that Triumph/Castrol hype is str8 BS! Go Mobil-1
@@AllboroLCD sounds good. I've used Mobil-1 in my cars for years. Definitely good stuff.
Did you get any kind of dash notification about maintenance/needing to change the oil? If so do you need a dealer to reset it?
Thanks for this. Will try and change the oil myself. How often do you change it?
12 months or 10,000 miles. Whichever comes first.
The big question to me is how you were able to clear the wrench icon.
I had the dealer do the rest of the service and clear the light. I saved about half of the cost of the first service by just doing the oil and filter. Haven't found a confirmed report of anyone being able to clear the wrench by themselves yet.
@@jrobrides1340 Everything I've seen suggest Triumph won't allow it since it's a new model.
@@jameyhinds Unfortunately, I think you're right. I'm OK with bringing it back to the dealer for the 10k services. Motorcycle tecs have bills to pay too, right? But I don't know about taking it in every 12 months.... I guess I have a year to think about it or for someone to come up with a solution.
@@jrobrides1340 I have chosen to leave the wrench "on" and will probably take it into Triumph for the 10K service. I'm at 3K currently.
Qual tempo de troca do óleo ?
1º a 600 milhas. Depois, a cada ano ou a cada 10.000 milhas, o que ocorrer primeiro.
請問你的保養里程是自己設定的嗎？
我們台灣的trident 660都不能自己調整 一定要回原廠調整
No. It's set by the factory. The dealer can reset the light.
@@jrobrides1340 謝謝你
Question, why not American made oils such as valvoline 4t or amsoil?
Either of those would be fine as long as they meet the required specifications. I usually just go with what the manufacturer recommends, especially during the warranty period. Both Valvoline and Amsoil make perfectly good products. Use what you feel is best.
@@jrobrides1340 it would have been better if you used valvoline or locally sourced oil. I heard once from a gold wing owner that valvoline 4t gave him a better, smoothe engine operations and gear shifts. Just saying. Castrol....
I’ve never had a problem with Castrol or anything else for that matter. But it’s your bike, put whatever want in it.
Nice video and the comments are a hoot! So for my two cents……You are clearly inexperienced in motor cycle maintenance as you are using the wrong color gloves! LOL
Keep up the great content
Of all the comments on all the videos this is the best by far. Thank you.
The oil filter is a b@tch to get off, even with the pliers. My pliers eat through the oil filter casing rather than twisting it off.
Lol. Yeah I don’t know if Triumph has some super robot or a genetically enhanced gorilla that installs the oil filters at the factory, but it’s on TIGHT. I think that also has something to do with the filter gasket that sticks to the pan.
I appreciate this tutorial! May I know the spec of the crush washer?
I got them from Amazon here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3B595M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is there anyway to reset the service light on that bike? Obd2 adapter maybe?
Currently it doesn’t look like there is anything that will work short of taking it to the dealer.
@@jrobrides1340 Thank you!
$70 $ for a dealer to reset it. You can do It with OBD2 between 30$ and 110$ and tune ecu software which is like 15$ I belive.
@@drrrd9536 I still haven’t seen anyone with the software that will work for the Trident. I’ve only heard that Triumph changed something in the ecu, and current software doesn’t work.
ua-cam.com/video/q_nVyT2G9aI/v-deo.html for You Tube video showing the reset process.
I thought tridents have an annoying change oil message that had to be disabled by a dealer service center. Did they finally fix that problem? It made me write off getting one.
Nope. The message still pops up and it's still annoying. I heard rumors about being able to clear the message with software, but at that point, I'd rather just take it to the dealer. Doing the oil and filter yourself can at least save you some money when you do have to bring it in. To be fair it's not just the Tridents . Most if not all new Triumphs are the same way.
@@jrobrides1340 unsure if you've seen this one but this guy did it ua-cam.com/video/q_nVyT2G9aI/v-deo.html
@@alexg160 Thanks for sharing this, I had not seen it. Looks like Apple users will still have to wait for their app?
@@jrobrides1340 no problem. Yep, the app is only for Android users 👎🏼
How much litres do we use for this bike ? 2,5 or 3.0
The manual says 2.8 litres with oil and filter change. But you should check your level with the dipstick.
Which oil you used ?
Castrol & Motul ? 10-40 , 10-30
I went with Castrol 06112 POWER 1 4T 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
NEVER use the 17mm to tighten the filter. It is eay more likely to leak. That is for loosening ONLY, oil filters should be hand-tight regardless.
@@Headless_Hooman gotcha
careful man if the video was recorded in any higher quality I could see your address...
LOL. Thanks for looking out.
How often do you change the oil on yours?
It’s supposed to be every 12 months or 10000 miles, whichever comes first. I don’t ride anywhere near that far in a year, so sometimes I let it go a few more months.
Do you have to go to a dealer and have them reset the maintenance light that comes on? (I assume one comes on?) Just got a 660 myself and seeing if I’ll run into software issues
Has anyone found a way to buy trident parts. Like head gasket , clutch, or any service part? All I see are basic accessories.
Just dealers for the most part. Some are good about posting parts diagrams, so you can look up the exact part number and order from them online. There’s a few other places like puretriumph.com.
@@jrobrides1340 I heard that parts for Triumph are a nightmare to get and people waiting for 3 months and more when they need something to be replaced and they cannot ride the bike for many moths waiting for dealer to get those parts which is ridiculous and keeps me away from Triumph bikes.
Does servicing the bike invalidate your warranty in the US? I’m sure it does in the UK (we get 2 year unlimited mileage warranty - so I will be getting Dealer to service for now).
No, warranty is still good as long I can prove that the service was done with properly spec'd items. I think this video covers that. I had the dealer do the rest of the first service and they also documented that the oil change was done.
@@jrobrides1340 hi 👋 how much did it cost you at the dealership for the rest of the 600 miles service? Thank you!
@@timotherollet5370 hey. It was $237 and took about 3 hours.
@@jrobrides1340 wow yeah big difference! They told me about $500. Thank so much!!!
@@timotherollet5370 no problem. Yeah, the service manager said I saved about 50% by doing it myself. Of course you still have to buy the oil and filter, so it’s not quite that much. But still helps, right?
Wait... how did you reset the spanner icon?
That was the first service, so I took it to the dealer for the rest. But now I have a Bluetooth OBD module and a Galaxy tablet.
What size is the stand for the bike?
I have this one here www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/trackside-rear-paddock-stand?sku_id=1127303
how was the engine running after oil change?
Great!
What about the service internal light?
It is possible to buy the Diagnostic Checker and reset the service light. (DealerTool). Others are available, but this one also allows reset of faults on engine & ABS. dealertool.co.uk or
ua-cam.com/video/qT_rra7A0yU/v-deo.html
@@wl660 no shit? Im changing my oil now on my trident. That's awesome.
I had the dealer do the rest of the first service and they reset the light. The service manager said that by doing the oil change myself, I cut the bill in half. I did come across a video of a guy doing an oil change on a Street Triple where he used a tool he got from Amazon for like $99. It connected to the bike by the ODB port and to his phone by Bluetooth.
It was this one here: www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mx%2B+obd2&qid=1619533902&s=automotive&sr=1-4
I might try it for the the next service.
@yolo I’d have to check - apologies if that is the case.
I needed the tool to reset ABS fault - and it was an advanced feature for diagnostic devices and worked well.
@@jrobrides1340 I also tried that but it'll do anything and everything except clear that service light.
Have you noticed any need to ad oil ,??, O have a bud with a 660 Tiger who is having oil consumption problems with this engine. He’s needed to ad a bit over a qrt every 1000-2000 miles 🤦🏻♂️
I haven’t noticed anything like that. If I did, I’d look for leaks and take it back to the dealer asap.
You know that nice hot engine? The exhaust is also really hot too. Still got the scar from the burn from doing my wife's bike at Easter..... Dumbass eh?
I know, right? Maybe one of these days we’ll learn.
K&N worst filter, way too expensive, known faults in tack welds that are either burn throughs or let go while tightening. They are merely a kitch gimmick.
Thanks for the info.
I highly discourage you following this persons advise to loosely hand tighten things and *come back to them later*.
This is a terrible idea and allows for mistakes to be made or forgetting to tighten (happens all the time and see it at track days as well). Make sure you tighten the drain plug to spec and do NOT over tighten the oil filter! No canister oil filter should be tightened past hand tight as much as you can spin it with your hands as hard as you can. I've changed oil filters on countless cars and motorcycles and never had one leak occur.
That was just until I could get the drain pan out of the way. Cleaning a wrench after you've dropped it in the drain pan isn't much fun, but you do what works for you.