About half cars on the road today do not have dipsticks so the fluid condition cannot be inspected and most of their owners manuals do not specify a fluid replacement interval.
In my personal lexicon, I reserve the term "flush" for an action that includes pushing fluid through the system under power. I use "drain and fill" for a fluid change that doesn't involve any more power than the transmission's own operation, regardless how complete the fluid change might be. I agree that if fluid is drained and filled more frequently, a flush (that is, a power flush) is _never_ needed and more likely than not to cause trouble.
Cool video..Sharing experience..ATF fluid off or dark color..80 percent clutch material..20 percent rubber seals...I would only change 25 percent of ATF fluids at a time because this clutch and seal material is needed to cushion the transmission at set mileage...My favorite additive is Hot Shots Secrets Stiction Eliminator Concentrate..2 quarts covers 40 quart capacity to stabilize transmission......
I ,ve watched a few of your video's and found them interesting,I have a question for you I have a 2010 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 sedan the transmission had 145,392 miles when I check the carfax I can't seems to find a service record showing it was ever serviced,it shifts ok but I'm tempted to change the fluid,whar do you think? Some say if its not acting up don't change it,Manual said it should be done at 80,000 miles.
You’re only 15,000 miles away from the second time it should have changed if it’s been kept on the change schedule so you might as well change it now then again in another 80. ✌🏼
Great video! I'm 119 years old and I have a Ford Model T. I think this tip really will add a few more years of life to it. Also, any insights into when you'll have a new channel introduction video? Just curious if you've hit 1000 subscribers yet like the video says you guys need
My personal preference is to perform a drain & fill at 50% versus power flushing the system w/ their solvents. Has anyone done a study to verify this is better? Under what conditions is it safe/advisable to power flush your transmission system?
@@MarkMiller-cf1noI read a comment recently that fluid exchanges don't use any chemicals anymore or high pressure. I suppose you just have to ask. As far as solvents, I thought ATF was one of the stronger solvents out there and is why your drain plug is so sparkly clean when you remove it & why people use half a quart for engine cleaning.
@@MarkMiller-cf1no Keeping the old clutch material in is just a way to buy time and even then you aren't really buying much time. The material is doing damage as it helps it function. So its a damage vs transmission performance ratio that becomes impossible to balance. In my mind.. You are better off just replacing it and living with the possible outcome. If the transmission is in good shape, you just prevented damage. If its in bad shape, you just figured out its on its way out. Heck.. You can try saving the old oil and putting it back in if its really bad lol
When you take out, say 3 liters that were in the pan, all you have to do is put in 3 liters of new fluid? Or is it necessary to check the level? Let fluid bleed until leveled? Thank you!!
The Aisin automatic transmission on my 2012 Mini is 'sealed for life' according to Mini/BMW. Any suggestions for a suitable interval to at least change the fluid?
Most are around 60k.. "Sealed" trans and difs are always upsetting to hear about. Really just a way for manufacturers to sell you something more valuable than a bottle of oil.
That's if the transmission is already extremely worn or damaged. There is a lot of subjectivity to what "very dark" means. The red color of fluid is a dye (not a natural color of the oil) that darkens with a bit of age and heat no matter what you do. The fluid of a damaged transmission won't merely be "very dark" but will also smell burned or even be sludgy. Draw out a few drops and put them on a white paper towel...if it evaporates to a black stain with solid deposits, that's severe transmission wear and damage. If you're already suffering transmission operation problems caused by internal damage (that are not caused by other components such as various sensors), then changing the fluid won't fix problems. In that case, the transmission is dying and keeping the old fluid in will keep it going while you make plans to replace the car or transmission as quickly as possible. If the fluid is not that far gone and you're not already having transmission problems, changing the fluid won't _cause_ transmission problems.
Dumb question.... So i've seen videos where people say if you can when you change your oil to suck out 1qt of transmission fluid and replace it. I mean to me it makes sense seeing how a 1qt bottle for dexron vi is less than $10. Or are you just wasting money? Also I have 87k org miles on my transmission, book says change fluid every 100k (normal use, taxi/police use every 50k). I have no issues with the tranny and the fluid is brown. Good idea to change (drain and fill) fluid?
Not dumb question. Brown means time to change yea! A quart every oil change is a great idea but seams like a lot of work unless really easy for you to pull exactly one quart and replace. For the trouble, I find it simpler to drain everything they can every 30k
About half cars on the road today do not have dipsticks so the fluid condition cannot be inspected and most of their owners manuals do not specify a fluid replacement interval.
Indeed
In my personal lexicon, I reserve the term "flush" for an action that includes pushing fluid through the system under power. I use "drain and fill" for a fluid change that doesn't involve any more power than the transmission's own operation, regardless how complete the fluid change might be. I agree that if fluid is drained and filled more frequently, a flush (that is, a power flush) is _never_ needed and more likely than not to cause trouble.
Cool video..Sharing experience..ATF fluid off or dark color..80 percent clutch material..20 percent rubber seals...I would only change 25 percent of ATF fluids at a time because this clutch and seal material is needed to cushion the transmission at set mileage...My favorite additive is Hot Shots Secrets Stiction Eliminator Concentrate..2 quarts covers 40 quart capacity to stabilize transmission......
I ,ve watched a few of your video's and found them interesting,I have a question for you I have a 2010 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 sedan the transmission had 145,392 miles when I check the carfax I can't seems to find a service record showing it was ever serviced,it shifts ok but I'm tempted to change the fluid,whar do you think? Some say if its not acting up don't change it,Manual said it should be done at 80,000 miles.
You’re only 15,000 miles away from the second time it should have changed if it’s been kept on the change schedule so you might as well change it now then again in another 80.
✌🏼
Great video! I'm 119 years old and I have a Ford Model T. I think this tip really will add a few more years of life to it. Also, any insights into when you'll have a new channel introduction video? Just curious if you've hit 1000 subscribers yet like the video says you guys need
My personal preference is to perform a drain & fill at 50% versus power flushing the system w/ their solvents. Has anyone done a study to verify this is better? Under what conditions is it safe/advisable to power flush your transmission system?
@@MarkMiller-cf1noI read a comment recently that fluid exchanges don't use any chemicals anymore or high pressure. I suppose you just have to ask. As far as solvents, I thought ATF was one of the stronger solvents out there and is why your drain plug is so sparkly clean when you remove it & why people use half a quart for engine cleaning.
@@MarkMiller-cf1no Keeping the old clutch material in is just a way to buy time and even then you aren't really buying much time. The material is doing damage as it helps it function. So its a damage vs transmission performance ratio that becomes impossible to balance. In my mind.. You are better off just replacing it and living with the possible outcome. If the transmission is in good shape, you just prevented damage. If its in bad shape, you just figured out its on its way out. Heck.. You can try saving the old oil and putting it back in if its really bad lol
When you take out, say 3 liters that were in the pan, all you have to do is put in 3 liters of new fluid? Or is it necessary to check the level? Let fluid bleed until leveled? Thank you!!
I keep hearing "black" or "brown" but what about a very deep red? Looks nice on paper but nearly black in a glass.
The Aisin automatic transmission on my 2012 Mini is 'sealed for life' according to Mini/BMW. Any suggestions for a suitable interval to at least change the fluid?
Most are around 60k.. "Sealed" trans and difs are always upsetting to hear about. Really just a way for manufacturers to sell you something more valuable than a bottle of oil.
Good fluid tips.. 👌
If transmission fluid is very dark, don't change it at all. Doing so could cause immediate slippage......
How?
Depends I have a 05 odyssey never changed until last year 120k miles very dark and burnt
Drain and filled 4 times in the past 18 months and it’s running good, I think the first two changes were the best and changing the filter helped too
That's if the transmission is already extremely worn or damaged.
There is a lot of subjectivity to what "very dark" means. The red color of fluid is a dye (not a natural color of the oil) that darkens with a bit of age and heat no matter what you do.
The fluid of a damaged transmission won't merely be "very dark" but will also smell burned or even be sludgy. Draw out a few drops and put them on a white paper towel...if it evaporates to a black stain with solid deposits, that's severe transmission wear and damage. If you're already suffering transmission operation problems caused by internal damage (that are not caused by other components such as various sensors), then changing the fluid won't fix problems. In that case, the transmission is dying and keeping the old fluid in will keep it going while you make plans to replace the car or transmission as quickly as possible.
If the fluid is not that far gone and you're not already having transmission problems, changing the fluid won't _cause_ transmission problems.
Tip. Try wiping your camera lens with a clean cloth next time to avoid making "foggy" videos like this one.
Pretty sure he just filmed in “cinematic” mode on an iPhone. That puts him in focus and causes background images to appear blurry.
So basically a “partial” flush !
Dumb question.... So i've seen videos where people say if you can when you change your oil to suck out 1qt of transmission fluid and replace it. I mean to me it makes sense seeing how a 1qt bottle for dexron vi is less than $10. Or are you just wasting money?
Also I have 87k org miles on my transmission, book says change fluid every 100k (normal use, taxi/police use every 50k). I have no issues with the tranny and the fluid is brown. Good idea to change (drain and fill) fluid?
Not dumb question. Brown means time to change yea! A quart every oil change is a great idea but seams like a lot of work unless really easy for you to pull exactly one quart and replace. For the trouble, I find it simpler to drain everything they can every 30k
@@BudgetMechanicHawaiifor those that still have dipstick tubes, it could probably be sucked out of there.
Great video… can’t wait for upcoming video. I have 2014 county and town with 145k. 🪛