Great video! Everything is the same on my 1964 mercury 6hp outboard. I'm inside of the ignition right now. My woodruff key fell out when I pulled the flywheel off. I was lucky to find it.
This one here is a 1964. I’ve got one of the same year from my great grandfather that I need to work on since it’s been in sitting for a while. Super great motor when it’s running though, that’s for sure
I wanted you to show how to set the points...not only talk about it. Do I need to turn the crankshft to get the 0.020 gap? Right now, I have no gap on any of the points....Also, I'm missing the copper washer on the crankshaft. Is that of any importance?
You are my new hero! I am trying to get my Dad's old 1970 Mercury 9.8 running. Last time it ran was two summers ago. Yours is definitely older than 1970, and just needs the water pump/impeller replaced. So far, I replaced the solid state ignition element and plugs. Rebuilt/cleaned both the carburetor and fuel pump. Replaced a lot of dry-rotted wiring and fuel lines. Also have 2 new coils. Mine has solid state ignition (but still has points, which I just replaced). Regarding the points... Do I set the gap with the throttle against the idle stop, or at wide open throttle? It makes a big difference in the gap I notice. I've never set points in an outboard before.
OK. I set the points and put it back together. I still can't get the motor to start. Good gas, even tried starting fluid. Ugh. Compression is equal in both cylinders also. I'm at a loss as to what to try next. What are the "base settings" for the carburetor? I put it together the same as I took it apart...@@MakeItBetter1
@@greghudson1489 You might have figured this out by now, but starting in '70, Merc used something they called "Maker-Point" ignition on those motors. meaning that, the cylinder fires when the points TOUCH, not when they're apart. The claim was, the points would then virtually last forever, and it certainly seemed like they did (I worked for a couple years at a Mercury dealer in the mid-'70's, and I've owned a few different small Mercs from 1970-1979 model years. Ignition was fully electronic by that time, NEVER had to changed points. As far as this motor goes, you need to have the water ABOVE the level of the water pump itself. So yeah, several inches above where you had it. You needed a new impeller anyway.
.020 poimts gap, and likely you will need to replace your waterpunp impeller as you didn't have your lower unit deep enough submerged. The reason your recoil Stud came out was nut is left hand threads. Obviously your 1s t Rodeo working on an outboard 😅
Nice video, Jim working on very similar 9.8 Merc . Mines a 1969 . Yours is a couple years older . Good job .
Great video! Everything is the same on my 1964 mercury 6hp outboard. I'm inside of the ignition right now. My woodruff key fell out when I pulled the flywheel off. I was lucky to find it.
Thank you for this. Just picked up the same motor with no spark issue. Thanks again!
This one here is a 1964. I’ve got one of the same year from my great grandfather that I need to work on since it’s been in sitting for a while. Super great motor when it’s running though, that’s for sure
I wanted you to show how to set the points...not only talk about it. Do I need to turn the crankshft to get the 0.020 gap? Right now, I have no gap on any of the points....Also, I'm missing the copper washer on the crankshaft. Is that of any importance?
Thank you for the helpful information
My whole thing fell apart just like yours did and I need to know how to put it back together please
Just noticed that you definitely did not have enough of water in that bucket. The water pump is definitely toast now.
Do you still have the 110?
how to synchronize (set) the ignition after replacing the coil?
You are my new hero!
I am trying to get my Dad's old 1970 Mercury 9.8 running. Last time it ran was two summers ago.
Yours is definitely older than 1970, and just needs the water pump/impeller replaced.
So far, I replaced the solid state ignition element and plugs. Rebuilt/cleaned both the carburetor and fuel pump. Replaced a lot of dry-rotted wiring and fuel lines. Also have 2 new coils.
Mine has solid state ignition (but still has points, which I just replaced).
Regarding the points... Do I set the gap with the throttle against the idle stop, or at wide open throttle? It makes a big difference in the gap I notice. I've never set points in an outboard before.
I generally set the points with the throttle at idle/ neutral, however i don't believe it should affect your gap either way
OK. I set the points and put it back together. I still can't get the motor to start. Good gas, even tried starting fluid. Ugh.
Compression is equal in both cylinders also.
I'm at a loss as to what to try next.
What are the "base settings" for the carburetor? I put it together the same as I took it apart...@@MakeItBetter1
@@greghudson1489 You might have figured this out by now, but starting in '70, Merc used something they called "Maker-Point" ignition on those motors. meaning that, the cylinder fires when the points TOUCH, not when they're apart. The claim was, the points would then virtually last forever, and it certainly seemed like they did (I worked for a couple years at a Mercury dealer in the mid-'70's, and I've owned a few different small Mercs from 1970-1979 model years. Ignition was fully electronic by that time, NEVER had to changed points.
As far as this motor goes, you need to have the water ABOVE the level of the water pump itself. So yeah, several inches above where you had it. You needed a new impeller anyway.
I think Phelon magneto points are set to 18 thousand. and plugs at 28 IF memory serves. You need to be 8 inches higher with your water.
Where do you guys go for parts ?
marineengine.com and ebay will have the majority of parts needed.
@@MakeItBetter1 thank you.
.020 poimts gap, and likely you will need to replace your waterpunp impeller as you didn't have your lower unit deep enough submerged. The reason your recoil Stud came out was nut is left hand threads. Obviously your 1s t Rodeo working on an outboard 😅
Covering the prop with water does not make the water pump work. They are not self priming. Cover the pump housing with water or burn the impeller out.
The intake is on the bottom side of the cavitation plate on these motors
Looks like a 63